How should I prepare old subfloor for vinyl plank flooring? This is a floating floor that glues to itself flooring, the allure planks have a underlayment attached.  It will be going over 40 year old wood planks that have had repairs in a  ground level living room. Should I use a floor leveler or underlayment product over all floor 25' x 11', or just patch gaps and holes? Thanks.

How perfect do you want it to be / How much money and time are you willing to spend?

The vinyl allure product is at the cheaper end of vinyl products so my recommendation would be to forget about leveling and just make sure that the floor is not out 1/2" or more over 4'.  So take a 4' straight edge or level and move it along the floor and make sure that any gap under the level is less than 1/2".

The vinyl flooring will conform to the rolling nature of the floor to a better degree than most other flooring types and if you don't mind it being a little bouncy in some places I suspect it isn't worth the effort to do anything more than ensure there are no squeaks, there are no large holes and the floor is within the 1/2" difference over 4'.  The floor really just needs to be flat not level and pretty much the only case where I'd go to effort/money to flood a floor with self level is if that room receives no furniture and no area rugs.  If you already know the areas where furniture will sit you can spend more time on the areas where someone is likely to walk and notice the bounce / dipping of the floor.


Can I drill a hole for a faucet in a porcelain sink? Looking at this bathroom sink from below a round area is visible in the middle where the material is thinner. Is there a safe way to drill a middle hole there (to install the faucet recommended at https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/18330/7480)?

I would not recommend treating the area in the center rear of the sink as a "knock out". Trying to remove that portion of the sink with a hammer is foolhardy at best and could lead to splintered and cracked procelain on the top side of your sink.

You would be far better off to apply a hole saw made for this type application. Here is an example of a diamond grit hole saw that may be suitable:

Link to tool on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-HDG112-38mm-Diamond-Grit/dp/B003K2Q60S/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1348794381&sr=1-16&keywords=diamond+holesaw

Hole saws of this type are often used with a 0.25 inch diameter drill bit acting as a centering agent to keep the hole saw in its cutting track. It is often a good idea to pre-drill the guide hole for this before deploying the hole saw. Look for a diamond dust drill bit for drilling this hole.

Use of the hole saw will likely require the adding of water into the cut area during the cut process to keep down the heat buildup on the hole saw.

If it was my project - I would drill the guide hole from under the sink first in order to get it centered properly and then come back and drill out the necessary larger diameter hole with the hole saw from the top side.

Last Comment - Before investing a whole lot of money in tools for a one-shot project you owe it to yourself to investigate the cost of a complete sink replacement that has the appropriate hole configuration to meet your needs. You may find that a retailer may offer a good deal on pricing if you purchase a sink and faucet at the same time.

The thinner part is a knockout. Give it a firm tap in the center and it should break out cleanly.

EDIT: Four upvotes to Five downvotes... Interesting ratio. I'm curious of the downvoters: What do you think that thin circle, in the center of the area where a faucet would go, with a formed center tapping point... is?


Just installed a new light near an existing one but one stays on, any help? I installed a new light fixture near another using the power that comes from the switch (spliced into) and put a box in and took the power off that to my other light which was off that switch to begin with. What happens is I turn the power back on and one light is always on while the other is off, if I throw the switch it shuts other light off and turns other on.

Can someone tell me how to fix or give a diagram please. I have black white and ground. Thanks for any help.

You have a wire crossed. Typical series would be black to white from one light to the next, and white all the way through the series. 1st light: white wire from switch continues to the 2nd light, the black wire on the light is connected to the black wire from the switch. 2nd light: white wire from 1st light is connected to the black wire of the 2nd light and the white wire on the second light is connected to the white wire from the switch.

WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW
                                 W
BBBBB(light)WWWWWBBBBB(light)WWWWW

The switch seems to be acting as a three way that is jeff said is not wired properly,

1step:make sure it's not a three way switch and ther is indeeed only one switch in the house for those light,
If this is the case and the only switch that turns on the existing lights, then you problem is most likely in how you wired them me personally, I would have just jacked the power directly from the the light and installed the new one as you did, the other

OBVIOUSLY DONT WORK LIVE especially diy,
Anyway what I would is power down the switch and go back to the previous light fixture and see how they wired it

The three way switch is most likely the issue, I had the same one and it came down to me not wiring one then correctly
What leads me to believe there is a three way involved is the fact one light stays one, switches don't work like that when a switch is off the brass connected in not in its terminal so it should not even function (not the old toggle switches or the new decoras) it's all the same function


How do I remove an oil stain from my concrete driveway? Anyone have tips for removing oil stains from a concrete unpaved driveway?  The spill was from a leaking car, now fixed, and they are a few months old.  There are so many products and spurious reviews at Amazon.  I'm not sure whom to trust...

Does anyone have personal experience with products to clean these oil stains?  Our driveway like most driveways has a slight slant to allow water to run-off to the street gutters.

I've always used cat litter.  It's absorbent enough that it tends to pull the oil out of the concrete.  Not sure how well it would work on a stain once it's set in for a while though, but it's cheap enough that you don't have much to lose by trying.

Oil Grabber works perfectly. I used it on my driveway, as well as for fat oils around my grill, and it removed it all.


How can I install drywall that has warped from improper storage? I have 90 sheets of drywall that I stored for a couple of months against a wall.  The warp is minimal but noticeable.  I tried hanging a sheet on a wall.  The nails pulled through in the middle where the drywall is bowed.
I have laid the 90 sheets flat on the ground on top of each other.
I assume that eventually the sheets will flatten out but I am anxious to get them hung.
Any thoughts?

First off, use screws - perhaps just my personal preference, but I don't have nearly the problem with them.

I assume you are laying the drywall horizontally (not vertically) and the bow along the long 8' (or 12') length (not the 4').

It might take a little longer, but you could screw a 2x4 along the face with the drywall in place to  force the board back against the studs until the all screws are in - One board centered in the middle should do with just securing it at 16" & 80" then pull the board and move on down the line.

Install them right, Vertically thank you very much! Then, you can lean on the bow to have no problem since you won't be getting caught short on a stud edge at the end. Drywall should be first screwed in the center anyway & for this specific reason, especially applicable to ceilings.

Should Drywall be hung Horizontally or Vertically


I am using tongue and groove planks for a desk. What's the best substrate to use? I am using tongue and groove planks for a desk. What's the best substrate to use?

best substrate would be 3/4 or 19mm baltic birch ply, or as a second choice, 3/4 maple ply.


Is there any NEC code requirement for how far off the floor Category 5 wiring must be run? I am currently running conduit for Cat5e cable in the home office I am finishing off.  Are there any rules in the code for how far off the floor Category 5 wires in conduit must be run?

No.  Cat 5 cabling can be run on the ground or underground.  If you are worried about it working just make sure the coating isn't torn/cut and it is capped properly.  If you are worried about code violations - no inspector cares unless the cable is interfering with something else he cares about.

My experience level - ran communications cable for large internet provider for 4 years both in the field and in-house.  If you run cable underground there is code specific sheathing needed.  Not really sure this would apply for cat5 because that wouldn't be used for long runs.  I personally have buried cat5 cable 1 foot under by 50 feet to set up a link in a shed that now works just fine 8 years later - without piping. Hillbilly but works perfect.

If I were doing my house I would run it 7-8 inches off the ground.  Just because that is usually a spot that has little chance to be nailed/screwed.

Actually I wouldn't run cabling in my house.  You run cables now and in 2-3 years wireless is faster.  Seriously what could you be doing at your house that wireless wouldn't work?  They make 1GB wireless routers for under $100.  Soon 10GB will be the norm.  Your internet speed - if it is blazing blazing fast - goes at 100 MB.  That is 10 times less than your 1GB wireless throughput.  Also your computer will only be able to process so much data being saved to it.  I have my house teched out to the max (video/music hub server, print server, 10 devices online, virtual servers, mac/pc) and I haven't thought for a second running cables.  Unless you are looking at selling your house soon to a couple in their 40/50s (the only demographic where cabling was known to) I see this as being pointless from a pure tech standpoint.  My advice - take all the money that you were spending on this project - read reviews - buy a good router, buy a repeater if you are worrying about reception to devices, buy a central hub device (NAS) to store and share your stuff and enjoy.

IMO in a commercial setting all receptacles, switches, jacks & the like should be installed at what is called counter height (about 48" to the top of the box). This not only satisfies ADA laws, but it keeps it all above most furniture, in sight for quick inventory, easy access, easy repair and upgrades. The days of crawling under desks and counters to get to plugs, kicking jumbles of cords plugged into recepticle strips under desks or smashing furniture against plugged in cords and cables really should come to an end. Exceptions to this would be common areas, corridors and lobbys


What do I do with receptacles behind built-ins? When installing built-in furniture, what should I do about the receptacles on the existing bare wall that will be covered up by the built-in?  How would I handle a receptacle covered by a bookcase section?  How would I handle a receptacle which will be covered by a cabinet section?  Is there a proper way to just cover them with the install?  If I want to keep them, what's a good way to do that since the back of the install may not sit flush against the wall?

For my purpose, the location is dry. But for future reference, how would I handle an installation which may be wet, like a bar?

Since all electrical junctions must be accessible, you have a few options.

Completely remove this section of the circuit.

To do this you will have to remove the wire feeding the receptacle, which means you will have to locate the source of the wires. The cable may come from another receptacle, or directly from the service panel. Either way you'll have to remove the receptacle, and all the wire feeding the box (I think you can leave the empty box in the wall, but you may want to remove it anyway since you no longer need it).
If the receptacle feeds another receptacle, you'll have to rewire the circuit to compensate for the removed section.

Terminate the circuit.

Since the junction will still have to be accessible, you'll have to cut a hole in the built-ins to allow access (if they have a back).  Once that is done, remove the receptacle, cap the wires with wire nuts and tape, and install a blank cover plate on the receptacle box. If this will be inside a cabinet, check your local codes to make sure this is allowed.
In this case if the receptacle feeds another receptacle, you can just connect the wires together (junction), and close it up with a blank cover plate.

Integrate the receptacle into the built-ins

This approach is similar to terminating the circuit, and you'll have to cut a hole in the built-ins (if it has a back). Again if the receptacle will be inside a cabinet check local codes to make sure this is allowed.
This might not be the best idea in the case of shelving units, since it could easily lead to a fire or electrocution hazard.

As B Mitch points out. Moving the receptacle to the other side of the wall may also be an option.

In this case simply cut an access hole on the other side of the wall, flip the box around to the other side, and install the receptacle on the other wall.

If it was me, I would remove the receptacle completely.  I'm not so keen on having live wires just hanging out, and receptacles in enclosed spaces (cabinets for example) makes me nervous.

I'm not sure what you mean when comparing dry/wet locations, the issue here is accessibility.  The only difference between a wet location versus a dry one, is if you integrate the receptacle into the built-in in a "wet" location (a bar for example) you would have to switch to a GFCI receptacle.

In the kitchen if the outlet is under the counter it does not count as one of the required outlets for that wall. Outlets have to be accessable. So move it over a few feet don't lose the outlet.
T


Can I add a non-GFCI receptacle in the garage for a freezer? It seems that GFCI-protected receptacles are required in all areas of the garage (even on the ceiling, where the garage door opener plugs in). Can I install a non-protected (15A) receptacle specifically for a freezer? I've had the GFCI trip a few times, cutting power to the freezer (sometimes losing the contents, other times I noticed in time), and would like to avoid this problem in the future.

The freezer sits in front of the main GFCI receptacle for the garage / outside, so my plan would be to add a second receptacle next to the existing GFCI receptacle pigtailed into the line side of the GFCI. Is this allowed by the NEC? Not sure which version is in use here in Alexandria, VA, but let's assume the latest version of the NEC.

Lets start with a little history. Before 2014 the NEC did not require GFCI protections to outlets that were not readily accessible.  After 2014 all receptacles in the garage shall be GFCI protected. for reference that would be NEC Article 210.8(A)(2). The NEC Handbook also notes, there are no exceptions because, Appliance leakage currents permitted by today's product standard are far less than the operational threshold of a GFCI, so nuisance tripping is unlikely. That's verbatim.

This has always been a sticky wicket since some people have appliances that were manufactured before 2014. I have found most AHJ are sympathetic since they are there to serve the community. What I have found in discussing this with them is that many times they will allow you to use a non GFCI receptacle so long as the circuit is dedicated to that one inaccessible location.

That's about the best I have good luck.

Definitely yes, you should use any means necessary to connect your food storage non-GFCI.  GFCI on a fridge is akin to a low-oil-level trip on a fire pump (awesome, you saved the pump while the building burnt down).

Don't put it on shared circuits with anything else that might trip GFCI, AFCI or just breaker. And if your freezer by itself is tripping GFCIs, get it fixed. The below is not a cure for a ground fault.

Ask your AHJ for permission to run a dedicated circuit with ONE SOCKET on its receptacle, located behind the freezer to be not particularly accessible.  It's important that it be a special 1-socket receptacle, not the usual 50-cent 2-socket "duplex" receptacle.  Now, important part here, the socket type must match the breaker exactly, in terms of 15A or 20A. Normally 15A socketS plural are allowed on 20A circuits -- but here, you are going out of your way to have only one of them - so no.

Your freezer isn't required to be cord-and-plug connected

And fridges, freezers, fans, lamps and many other loads which aren't cord-and-plug connected aren't required to be GFCI :)

Go to the electrical supply house and get some proper cordage with the same basic rating as the freezer's cord.  Remove and coil up the original freezer cord for when you sell it.  Then attach one end of the cordage where the cord had been.  The other end uses a well-fitting strain relief (which we buy with the cordage) to enter probably a 1/2" knockout in a steel junction box... where you make a 3-wirenut connection to your feed cable.  That goes to a dedicated breaker.   This junction box does not need to be hidden.


Repair a Hole/Crack in Hollow Core Door Someone punched a hole/crack in my hollow core door. I was wondering what my best course of action would be? Would it be relatively cheap/not too difficult for me to try and fix it myself? I looked at a few other similar questions to mine but the hole/crack in my door looks different than the ones in the questions that others have posted. Here are a couple pictures of the door:

Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you!

You can repair it but you're not going to be able to match the wood decor grain - which means you'll have to paint it.
There are a few different products you can use but I like Bondo. It's basically the same stuff they use for auto body repair. It looks like there is enough backing in the hole that you shouldn't need anything but the Bondo, a putty knife and a few sheets of sandpaper. Apply it according to directions trying not to overfill it too much since you'll want to sand it smooth with the door. After it dries start with about a 120 grit sandpaper or sanding block to take off most of the excess and finish with a 220 or higher grit to finish. If there are any hollows in the patch you can apply more Bondo after it's dry. It will be difficult to get the patch to totally disappear but with patience and going over it a few times you can get it very close.
It's hard to tell the material in the picture but you may need a good prime coat to get the adhesion and consistency you'll want with the paint.

You asked for advice on color matching.  Turns out there's an app for that!
See https://www.cnet.com/how-to/how-to-choose-pick-the-right-paint-color-for-your-home-walls/ for a rundown on your options.


3 way circuit with voltage in the off position I have a 3 way circuit providing current to 4 recessed LED lights. When the switches are off, the LED lights still burn very dimly. Approximately 23 volts in one of the fixtures.

What causes this?

This sounds like capacitive coupling, straight-up

Any pair of plates or wires next to each other will have a parasitic capacitance between them.  For a typical length of 14 AWG NM cable between two switches, we're talking about roughly 75pF to the meter between adjacent wires, such as the two travelers in a three-way switch.

As a result of this capacitance and the fact that mains electricity uses AC not DC, a tiny amount of current can flow through a three-way switch setup when the switches are configured to turn the load off.  For say a 10m cable length (750pF of capacitance) on 60Hz mains, we get an inter-traveler impedance of 3.5MΩ and an allowable current flow of 34µA with the load shorted.

This is an insignificant amount of current if you're an incandescent lightbulb; however, LEDs themselves require much less current to run, and the driver circuit in your LED fixtures is clearly finding enough power there to sustain operation at a low level.  (Some drivers have far larger capacitors in them, so they charge up, try to start up, drain out the large capacitor, shut down again, and then start charging again, resulting in flickering behavior instead of the dim glow you see.)

The 23V reading is similar -- a typical modern voltmeter has a very high input impedance (on the order of 10MΩ), and is going to read the parasitic voltage that was coupled across as a result.  (If your meter has a LoZ function, switching to that will cause the parasitic, or "ghost", voltage to go away.)

There's not much chance for magnetic coupling because hardly any current flows when the switches are off -- I suspect that you may be seeing capacitive coupling between the travelers.

This, together with the natural autoinduction always present in house wiring, has formed an accidental oscillator with a frequency that is some exact integer multiple of 60 Hz, so it is driven, or pumped, by the line voltage.

The amplitude of the oscillator current is just barely enough to trigger the LED drivers and cause a visible flicker. Any disturbance of the wiring should change the oscillator frequency enough so that it is out of tune with the 60 Hz line voltage, causing the phenomenon to disappear.


Motion sensor activates for no apparent reason I've been looking at some of the other questions about sensors, but I can't find a solution to my problem.

I have a movement sensor (PIR i presume) that turns on a light when movement is detected.
Annoyingly it turns on without reason; even when noone is in the house.
it is a dome sensor, located in the ceiling, at about 30cm from the light it turns on; I have put some black tape to obscure 50% of the sensor.  it's located near 3 doors that are generally closed.  There is absolutely no movement near.

what can trigger a PIR sensor aside movement?
Can I somehow fix this?

These units also detect heat changes.  Make sure the HVAC vent isn't blowing warm or cool air onto the detector or into its view of the space.

Answer: radio frequency being emitted from rodent deterrent sonic wave devices, cb radio, Wifi router, microwave, infrared light (night cameras), laser lights (level laser)  baseball radar gun, and all that stuff your neighbours would use just to irritate you because they don't have the balls to ask you to reset the sensitivity of your lights. Also they can just be dinks. Just place (glue/tape) a small metal screen over the sensor for that will block and minimise radio frequency level being transmitted which is affecting your light sensors and other sensors like motion sensor house alarms. You can buy the metal screen at most hardware stores. RF is everywhere, although it is not visible to the naked eye the technology and affordability of such devices (which are widely available in this day in age) to manipulate/alter the functions of motion sensors makes it too easy for pranksters and menaces to alter the normal functions of any motion detectors. Keep a log and install cameras, you may have snoopy neighbours.


Connecting a broken nichrome wire heating element back together I have a broken nichrome wire on my Holmes Accutemp portable heater people say regular solder won't work to reconnect it because the nichrome wire (heating element) may just melt the solder when the heater is in operation.
Does anyone have any other suggestions to connect it back together?  I've included an image with an arrow showing the break.

The only thing that works (properly) is replacement. You would replace the whole element.
Heater element wire is brittle once it's been through a heating cycle (i.e. you turn it on once.) As such, "repairing" it tends to just lead to more breakage.

I would drill another hole to rivet to the end of that heater wire then make a connection between the new rivet and the old one or the new rivet and where it was connected to.
Did that several times but the devices usually failed as all the other bits are also old...
Edit based on comment: I used to work on 1% ie If the broken bit is less than 1% of the total length then it makes little difference, but if the broken bit was 20% then it causes the remainder to get too hot.


Is it OK to drill vertically through a joist? I just bought a new house and I'm looking to run some cables. One of the areas I would like to run it to would require drilling through a 2x10 sistered joist. Realizing that going through the joist should be a last resort, if the hole is 1/4" and in the middle of one of the joists will this weaken the integrity?

I have seen lots of articles about drilling through the depth of a joist, but very few regarding drilling vertically.

Don't do it.

The reason that you can drill through the face of a beam in the center is because the bending stress is essentially zero there.

If you drill from the top to the bottom, you're removing the portions that carry the brunt of the loading (the top and bottom of the beam). If a joist that big is sistered, there's a good bet that it's a major load bearing beam section that you don't want to mess with.

Find a different route for your wire. Ask yourself this question: Is it worth risking major structural problems in order to hide one unsightly wire?

Image Source

In most cases, maximum stress in a beam occurs at the midspan of the beam. Since this hole was apparently drilled well off mid span, it is likely that the reduction in strength will not be a problem. HOWEVER, in some cases a beam is loaded with one or more point loads, in which case maximum stress DOES NOT occur at midspan.

A vertical hole is completely different, since you are removing material from the top and bottom of the beam, which carry the majority of stress. This results in the remaining beam width  being forced to pick up the load, which results in a significant stress increase.


How to stop metal bar from rotating? I made a DIY pull up bar by putting a barbell onto a barbell holder, however it rotates a bit when hanging on.
How can I stop it from rotating given this set up?
(There's only 1 barbell in my set up)

The bar is rotating because there is little friction between the bar and your supports.  Glue some soft rubber strips on the supports where the bar sits and you'll be all set.
On a side note, one limitation a lot of people have in strength training is in their grip strength.  This is manifest by the ubiquitous use of lifting straps.  If your grip is strong you won't need to prevent the bar from rolling.  That said, to each his own.

You need a clamp fitted to one or both of the supports.
Sometimes just drilling, tapping and using a bolt will be sufficient, but if you want to avoid damage from the bar rotating then perhaps a friction pad clamp would be better. Think of a G clamp...


Do I NEED to remove the wood trim to sand and re-stain it? I have 108 year old original wood trim throughout my house. Due to a roof leak last February, three rooms on my first floor need to have most of the (also 108 year old) plaster walls removed and replaced because it is moldy (inside the wall).  I am doing the demo myself (see my other post here) and have decided to try to keep the original wood. Partly because I want to keep costs down, partly because of the character of it, partly because I have read enough answers here that condemn folks who paint or otherwise destroy perfectly good hardwood and now feel too guilty to consider that alternative.

My plan was to remove all the wood downstairs and strip it and re-stain it.  Since this wood 1) has been subjected to lead paint removal (at least), and 2) is old, I figured this would require a delicate touch, and the use of a chemical stripper since I doubt it can stand up to any rough sanding. I want it all to match because I HATE that it doesn't right now (most is a hideous honey gold, some is a dark 80's fake wood paneling brown).

Now that I've tried to remove some of the crown moldings (not really! its actually picturing hanging rail someone butt up against the ceiling) and it is splintering into bits no matter how gentle I am, nor how much I plead with the patron saint of DIY.  I did the whole room that is getting gutted entirely, and I only have enough to put 40% back up.

So, my new plan is to only remove as much as I have to and try to stain the rest in place.  Is this possible? Is this what I should have planned to do in the first place?  Obviously, I've never attempted to stain anything more (important) than my 8th grade woodworking project. Another reason I wanted to do it in the garage-in case I make a big freakin' mess.

Should I just forget it and just get all new wood?  This would solve my other problem - attempting to match the old pattern (am I using the right word there?) - but would create a problem in the budget department.

If there are alternatives I haven't mentioned here-feel free to pitch me a softball...I need help, and needless to say, no one I know is handy, has good taste, and/or owns a house and understands the stakes. My fate is in your (collective) hands! No pressure. ;-)

We have a similarly old house, and I can say, if you are patient, stripping, sanding, and refinishing can be done in place.  We have done casing trim, and baseboards in place, but chose to remove the window apron to refinish that.  For grooves, look into dentist picks to pull any paint.

For sanding, use odd shapes of scrap with sandpaper adhered to it.

The can says it all. Personally I don't like it but landlords love it. Left with 40% usable material there's not much you can do except replace it all. Multiple rooms worth of salvage may make up for one of them. Reading your other post, this trim was recently reattached, making it rather impossible to remove without destroying it. This product requires only a scuff sanding to bond well, all reasonably done in place.


How should I mount a TV to a wall that slants inwards 8 degrees? I am going to attach a piece of plywood across 3 studs and then attach the mount to the plywood, as described in the answer to Can I use 2x4s to extend studs so I can mount my TV?.

However, my wall slants inwards 8 degrees ("inwards" meaning that the bottom of the wall is further out than the top). How should I handle this so that the mount is ultimately vertical? One thought I had was to have a 2x4 cut to the right dimensions with one side having an 8 degree angle to match the wall. I'd then place this on the bottom of where the mount will go, ultimately leaving me with studs > 2x4 > plywood > mount on the bottom, and studs > plywood > mount on the top.

Is this the right approach?

Your approach sounds perfect to me.  3 tips:
1.  Err on the side of thicker plywood.  3/4" sanded pine is what I'd be thinking.  3/4 MDF would probably do fine as well.
2.  You can use pretty much any CAD program to tell you the correct angles/dimensions for the upper and lower wedge-shaped 2x4's.
3.  Upper wedge?  Yes, I'd cut a thin wedge of 2x4 to put at the top as well, so that the fasteners aren't trying to bend the top edge of the plywood as you draw them up tight.

I picked up one of these mounts for ceiling-mounting from the exposed joists in my basement:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V8VW6W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Wiring a bathroom fan/light with only one neutral wire I bought a new light/ fan combo to replace and old one in a bathroom. This new fixture has those connectors that are plug and play, so to speak.  You simply plug the appropriate color wire from the cable into the corresponding hole in the wiring harness for the fixture.

The catch is that I have a ground, two hots and one neutral (12-3?)and the harness has a spot for each of them plus an extra white (neutral) that of course my cable doesn't have.  Seeing as my old fan/light was wired with the same house wire, should I cut the harness to splice together the two neutrals, or somehow branch/split the neutral and plug into the harness?

If branching/splitting is the recommended course of action, how do I do that?

There are two neutrals on the fan light, because

The fan gets a hot and a neutral.
The light gets a hot and a neutral.

By giving you separate neutrals, it gives you the versatility of being able to put the fan and light on separate circuits, or other circumstance where you'd need separate neutrals.

In your case, and in most instances, both devices share a neutral - the two hots (red and black) are switched, the neutral is not.

You address this by just sticking two 6-inch wires (of the size you are using in that circuit; larger is allowed, smaller is not) in those connectors, then joining those two wires and your supply neutral with a wire nut (or splice connector if you're in Europe.)  I would not alter the fixture.

I would install a two lever switch and run another wire up.

That way you can control the fan and the light separately.


Why do light bulbs all over the house burn out disconcertingly fast? I've found a couple answers to this question. This generally revolve around the scenario where it's bulbs in a general area such as a fan.

My issue is that light bulbs all over the house burn out pretty fast. They don't last more than a year and this includes long life kinds, ones warrantied for 7+ years and such. I've tried a variety, but they all seem to burn out within a year or sooner. Places include living room ceiling fan, living room lamps, light fixtures in master & guest bathrooms, office, guest room, and kitchen. Pretty much any where you can put a bulb.

I've noticed that the LED bulbs have been recommended on this Q&A site but I have no idea which ones to get, how much light they put out, or how reliable they are.

Why would my light bulbs burn out so fast, and what can I do to fix the situation?

One reason bulbs can burn out quickly is if the voltage applied to them is higher than the expected voltage (120V in The USA). Wiring problems and bad transformers can cause the voltage to be out of spec. Another reason is if there is a loose connection somewhere, and the light flickers (causing unnecessary heating/cooling cycles). A third reason is if the light is in a confined space, and overheats.

In order to check the line voltage, you will need to use a voltmeter. The Kill-A-Watt is a very safe product to use to check the line voltage. Note that you should try a few different outlets, since there are generally two different phases of power (not really phases, but opposite polarities, 180 degrees apart) going into a typical house, and you need to check both of them.

Identifying a bad connection is trickier. Generally, you would see flickering lights, but to be sure you would want to use an oscilloscope or spectrum analyzer (expensive equipment). Sometimes a bad switch will cause a short flicker when the light is turned on. Replacing the light switches with new high quality switches could help.

Finally, have you noticed that the bulbs go out more quickly in certain places? Are those places more confined, causing the bulbs to heat up more? If so, you need to use lower wattage lights (such as CFL, halogen, or less bright incandescents) so that the bulb is less hot.

LED lights, halogens, and CFLs are all more efficient than incandescent lights. For the same amount of light output, they use less electricity, and generate less waste heat (keeping them cooler). In order to check if they meet your needs, compare the light output (in lumens) to that of the bulbs you are currently using. Don't go by the "equivalent" rating (such as 60W equivalent).... The amount of heat generated is nearly proportional to the wattage of the bulb (generally between 10 and 25 W). Another thing to look at is the color temperature, as measured in Kelvins. More orange lights will be around 2700 K, while more blue (daylight) bulbs will be around 5000 K.

PS: Advertised bulb lifetimes are usually assuming use of perhaps four hours per day. So, a seven year bulb may only last a bit over a year if it is left turned on continuously.

Back in the early 20th century, light bulbs (incandescent of course) were lasting so long that companies started losing money.  So they monkeyed around with the amperage that the bulbs drew and Voila!  short life bulbs. I'm convinced that companies have started monkeying around again and they are pulling too much amperage.  I don't have an answer, but if I could figure out how to reduce the amperage the bulbs are pulling, or find low-amp bulbs, I think they'd last longer.


Blowing in Wool Insulation We bought a house in Northern Arctic Minnesota last summer. After outrageous propane consumption this last winter I decided to check out the insulation in the attic. This summer a leak developed and drywall ended up in our bedroom. After realizing that there was no access to the attic, I made a hole in the gable and found extreme heat. We have since replaced the roofing and a ridge vent. I also have installed a thermostatically controlled fan in the gable. While up there I found that there was only one layer of fiberglass batting... It was white?? Never seen the white stuff before. It has R-30 marked on it and 10".. It has settled to around 7"...

Anyhow, the recommended R-value for our region is R-49 to R-60... The local lumber yard has a great sale on "Blowing Wool Insulation". Retail $35 down to $19 with rebate and sale. So, I picked up 30 bags.I am considering blowing in at an R-30 value over the R-30 batting that is already in there. Should give me the recommended R-60.

I am an amateur and am thinking about getting someone with experience to blow it in. However, if it is a no-brainer, I would like to do it myself.??

Also, I was wondering if I have to do anything special around the soffits/vents (perforated for venting) inside?

There is an older part of the house (early 1900s) with about 7 inches of blown-in cellulose. Can I just blow in some of the wool over it?

Thanks for any advice...

My house had the white ( fiberglas ) blown in 20 years ago.  It was a nasty job with full coveralls ,mask, headcover and a trailer mounted blower unit. How would you do it ?  I had covered some soffits with pieces foam board an supposedly the operator tried not to cover the rest.


How is lead soundproofing installed in walls being renovated? I am doing a renovation that will involve taking down walls--replacing drywall in some cases with new drywall and in others with tile (in the bathroom). As long as I am taking apart the walls, I would like to install sound proofing.

Soundproofing generally consists of 3 layers, a layer of lead about 0.25" thick sandwiched between two porous sheets which are usually either plywood or gypsum board/drywall. It is also possible to have a 2-ply soundproofing where the lead sheet is affixed to a single porous layer.

So, in terms of installing this, the normal recommendation I see is that the sound proofing be used as the wall itself, so you just screw the soundproofing into the studs, just like normal drywall. The only problem with this is that if a 3-layer solution is being used, then the wall will be much thicker than normal, so that might affect the way electrical cutouts are made.

The other option would be to make 16" panels that would fit between the studs. In this case, the question would be how the panels are attached to the studs. Also, since the electrical will use EMT conduit, there is the problem of trying to install the sound proofing panels in a way that will not conflict with the EMT and water pipes, which might require extra wide walls.

Does anybody have experience with this kind of installation and can comment on best practices?

Well, what we ended up doing is cutting the sheets into pieces that fit into the bays between the joists. So, the cross section looks like this:

An acoustic caulk was used between the sound proofing layer and the joist flanges.

The result was very effective. There is no sound transmission between the two rooms through the floor. It also made the floor much more stable. I can jump up and down on the floor, no vibration at all.

Lead for soundproofing???

I’ve never used lead for soundproofing, only as x-ray barrier in medical offices.

Here is a website that gives various types of soundproofing for walls. It starts on page 20 and has ceiling applications too. (Sound OVER walls is often the weak link to soundproofing rooms.)

http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/acoustical-assemblies-en-SA200.pdf

I’d recommend “resilient channels” (which give an air gap in the wall) rather than a lead sheet.

BTW, you may not be able to surf the internet in your bathroom, if you use a lead sheet barrier.

Also, other tips would be to not have electrical outlets back to back in walls. They should be separated by at least one stud space. I’d wrap recessed light fixtures with gypsum board too, but make sure they’re rated to be “encapsulated”.


What are some easy non-expensive ways to clean a toilet? In particular, the exterior of a toilet.

My parents tell me to wipe the outside and surrounding floor of the toilet with a diaper several times (and then to wash the diaper with water in the sink several times). I'm really not sure if this is the most time-efficient way to clean the exterior of a toilet, and I'm not sure if it's the cleanest way to clean the exterior of a toilet either. Plus, the sink might get clogged with all the debris.

Something eco-friendly would be preferable if possible though.

Put 1/3 vinegar, 2/3 water in a reusable spray container (you can buy unused ones at many hardware stores and gardening supply stores).

Spray the exterior of the toilet, then wipe with whatever you want to use. You could use a couple of hand towels, cloth diapers, whatever.

The vinegar is a good disinfectant and is very eco-friendly. Toss the cloths into the laundry and wash normally. The vinegar should prevent any nasties from growing for a day or so. If no one is making a huge mess around the toilet (like a potty-training child), you only need to clean it once a week, so just plan to clean it the day before you usually do laundry.

Try putting some mouth wash around the edges of the toilet before you flush. This is a last option. Do not use this as your first option. I am serious!


How can I repair the start button on my LG washing machine that is hard to press? The start button on my LG washine machine WD14700RD is very hard to press, and getting worse.

I need to lean on it with my whole body weight in order for the program to start.

All the other buttons work fine, so I am guessing it's a problem with the contact point behind the start button.

Can I try to repair this myself? Should I just remove the top of the washing machine, then try to remove the control panel, and see if I can get behind the plastic start button?

Ok well I managed to take off the control panel. There is a little plastic arm behind the start button that had been worn down on the end and wasn't making contact with the electronic button underneath.

A little bit of tape on the end of the plastic arm did the trick.

To access the control panel on the WD14700RD:

Disconnect the unit from power and water
Remove the top: take off two screws at the back, push it backwards one inch and lift it off
Take out the soap tray and remove two screws on the soap tray compartment.
Remove the control panel: push down on the two arms on top of it so that it can pop out, and pull it out at the top and then lift it off the bottom hooks. Pull it out a little from the machine, about an inch.
Remove the front plate from the control panel:  there are 7 screws behind it.  Rotate the control panel up or down in order to access the screws behind
Now that the front plate of the control panel is loose, identify the arm of the button that has stopped working. Wrap a small amount (2-3 times around) of electrical or plumbers tape on the very end of the plastic arm.  Or if there is a nib instead of an arm, a small dab of epoxy resin allowed to harden does the trick.
Refit the control panel and test the button now works.
Reassemble the control panel, top, and turn on water and power.
Test once again.

And that's it! All you need is a screwdriver and some tape. Too easy :)

I used a silicone gun, filled a little so it does not fall and put just a milimeter thick layer. All perfect!


How do I easily separate unglued PVC pipe from joints? I've been retrofitting an existing PVC irrigation system around my house. Part of that work requires that I work in shallow holes adding T joints and elbows in places where there were none before. In an effort to measure twice and cut once, I've been assembling the system without glue to make sure I have the layout correct. More often than not however I'm running into issues separating the slip joints and pipes despite the fact they aren't yet glued.

What's the best way to separate these joints? Should I be applying some sort of lubricant beforehand (that won't affect gluing later on) or is there a trick beyond forcing things? With too much force I'm afraid I'm going to break pre-existing joints or mangle the existing fittings.

The best lubrication I've found is some good ol' Elbow Grease™.

Actually, you should measure the proper lengths and just cut. Then glue it up and install. You can mark on the PVC how far it should go into the fitting if you want to be really precise. However PVC itself expands and contracts a lot with temperature change and is fairly flexible anyway. So, in my opinion,  being extremely precise doesn't mean all that much anyway. Also, The solvent melts the PVC surface to weld them together, so the fittings will likely fit differently while gluing, thus making the dry-fit method even worse than just measuring.

Another solution could be to mark how far in the fitting the piece should go and lay them next to each-other in that position, even tape them together, to check your layout. That seems pretty time-intensive, though. I still think it would be better to just measure accurately and double check your measurements.

I think just cutting the pipe and gluing it together is the best way to go in your situation. Dry fitting can still be hard to removed, as you've discovered!
Also, PVC solvent does not melt surfaces to weld joints together. In fact it's easily unglued, should it ever need to be.


How can I prevent the hose in the toilet tank from popping out of the tubing? Unfortunately, I do not know the appropriate terminology but, there is a small hose that fits into a tube within a cylindrical container in the toilet tank.  When this occurs, I can see initially hear and, after removing the toilet tank cover see water running from the hose intermittently; this also seems to have an effect on the water level in the toilet bowl.

I can temporarily solve the issue by removing the tank cover and inserting the small hose back into the tube.  This works well for a while but, then the problem seems to reoccur.  I live in a rental which most recently replaced our old-fashioned toilets with smaller “energy efficient” toilets.  I cannot help but notice how flimsy the plastic parts are in the toilet tank.

Is there something that I could do to permanently stop the hose from popping out of the tube or is it necessary to call maintenance?

That tube is supposed to be attached (often with a metal clip) to the overflow tube.

It shouldn't just be inserted down into that larger diameter plastic tube (overflow tube), since as you've found, it will pop out again.

I attached a small sponge under the lid that keep the tube from popping up due to the water pressure.


Can I use SCH 40 for buried and above ground feeder wire? I'm running 2" PVC from my house to a detached garage to run a 60 amp feeder.  Looking at the NEC, it looks like I need to put it in SCH 40 below-ground.  However, it looks like I have to use SCH 80 anywhere the PVC will be above the ground.  Is that correct, or can I get away with using SCH 40 for the whole run?

National Electrical Code 2014

  Article 352 - Rigid Polyvinyl Chloride Conduit: Type PVC

  II. Installation

  352.10 Uses Permitted. The use of PVC conduit shall be permitted in accordance with 352.10(A) through (H).

  (F) Exposed. PVC conduit shall be permitted for exposed work. PVC conduit used exposed in areas of physical damage shall be identified for the use.

  (G) Underground Installations. For underground installations, homogenous and nonhomogenous PVC shall be permitted for direct burial and underground encased in concrete. See 300.5 and 300.50.

  Article 300 - Wiring Methods

  I. General Requirements

  300.5 Underground Installations.

  (D) Protection from Damage. Direct-buried conductors and cables shall be protected from damage in accordance with 300.5(D)(1) through (D)(4).

  (4) Enclosure or Raceway Damage. Where the enclosure or raceway is subject to physical damage, the conductors shall be installed in rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, Schedule 80 PVC conduit, or equivalent.

352.10(F) says that the PVC conduit "used exposed in areas of physical damage shall be identified for the use". I know schedule 80 is suitable for protection from physical damage, however, the Authority having jurisdiction in your area may allow schedule 40 as well. You'll want to check with your local inspector to be sure, or use schedule 80 for the exposed section.

300.5(D)(4) says that even though the conduit is buried, if it's subject to physical damage (not deep enough, under a garden, etc.) it still has to be schedule 80.

  UL 651

  Schedule 40, 80, Type EB and A Rigid PVC Conduit and Fittings

  1.2 Schedule 40 and 80 conduit and fittings

  1.2.1 Schedule 40 rigid PVC conduit and fittings are for aboveground use indoors or outdoors exposed to sunlight and weather, and for underground use by direct burial or encasement in concrete. Schedule 40 rigid PVC conduit, elbows, that are specifically marked for underground use are suitable for use underground only by direct burial or encasement in concrete.

The UL listing says both 80 and 40 can be used in both above and underground installations.

  Guide Information for Electrical Equipment The White Book 2013

  Rigid Nonmetallic PVC Conduit (DZYR)

  Use and Installation

  Schedule 40 conduit is suitable for underground use by direct burial or
  encasement in concrete. Schedule 40 conduit marked "Directional Boring""(or "Dir. Boring") is suitable for underground directional boring applications.
  Schedule 40 conduit is also suitable for aboveground use indoors or
  outdoors exposed to sunlight and weather where not subject to physical
  damage. Schedule 40 conduit marked "Underground Use Only" is only
  suitable for underground applications.

  Schedule 80 conduit has a reduced cross-sectional area available for wiring
  space and is suitable for use wherever Schedule 40 conduit may be
  used. The marking "Schedule 80 PVC" identifies conduit suitable for use
  where exposed to physical damage and for installation on poles in accordance
  with the NEC.

The White Book clearly states that only schedule 80 is suitable for use where exposed to physical damage, though again, says schedule 40 is suitable for aboveground use (unless labeled otherwise). So while you may be able to use schedule 40 for the entire run, you'll have to use schedule 80 through any areas where the AHJ deems the conduit is exposed to physical damage.

No one can make exceptions or go below the standards of the NEC period. The NEC is the minimum standardized electrical installation code. The local or state ordinance can only make the NEC code stricter with ordinances. For instance the NEC says that 1 inch emt must be strapped within 3 foot from a junction box. The city ordinance may say it has to be strapped within 18 inches of a junction box. The city ordinance can not say it can be strapped within 4 foot of a junction box. No inspector can weaken the NEC code book for it is already minimum standards.


Should I buy a drill or an electric screwdriver? I wanted to buy a drill, but some friends suggest I buy an electric screwdriver instead. They say you can use an electric screwdriver more than a drill, but I'm still unsure which to buy.

I think a drill would be more useful than an electric screwdriver.

Which would be more useful, if I could only purchase one or the other?

The screwdrivers are designed to work at a much lower RPM which makes them much more controllable.  They also have a lot more torque than the drill.  I've used both and the difference is night and day.  With the high torque of the screwdriver I have often driven screws into wood without predrilling at all.

Also the good screwdrivers have torque limiters that let you set the maximum torque--set the cutoff where you want it and when the screw is fully driven the limiter kicks in rather than snapping the head off the screw.

Most electric drills have screw driver attachments that are fine for screwing in but not for screw removal.  When you remove a screw, the fingers that grab the screwdriver come apart (as if you were removing a drill bit).


Why am I showing 50 volts between neutral and ground? I wired 8 recessed lights to a switch in a room. When I connected everything the first time and turned on the power, the breaker tripped. If I disconnect the ground that leads to the breaker box on this line, it doesn't trip the breaker, the lights turn on, but I get odd readings.

Using a digital multimeter and touching the black lead to the exterior of the recessed lights and the red lead to my finger, the multimeter reads 18 volts, so basically the ground is carrying voltage to the can lights. If I test the ground and the neutral mid-line (at a junction box between two of the lights), I am getting 50 volts. Neutral to hot reads 120 volts, and hot to ground reads 66 volts at the same junction box. Any thoughts?

I just had a similar problem. Is the voltage in your outlets fluctuating? Mine was and the problem was out at the pole. A tree branch pushed the neutral wire at the pole against the ground wire. I kept getting around the same voltage in my ground wire.

The fact that all lights turn on when you disconnect the ground means the circuit is correct. When it trips on connecting the ground means there is short circuit in the breaker box to hot. there could be some metal burr which you would not have noticed. check the box thoroughly.


Could this be asbestos? I'm gonna get the material tested - already bought the kit. But I'm wonder what people think - I thought it might be old mineral wool since I've seen stuff that looks similar to it. I'd read that vermiculite is hard like pellets, and this stuff is soft like wool, so I don't think it's that.

Thoughts? It's from my attic - old house, built in the late 1860s. There's tons of it up there. It's old and moldy - we had a raccoon living up there for a bit after it ripped through the soffit - was quite a deal to clean up after(I wore a P100 respirator).

I doubt that it is asbestos but I would have it tested to be sure. It looks like the pouring wool that my father-in-law used in his attic back in the 1960's

Asbestos is a bad guy for sure, but note that the only people who get in trouble for it are those who had occupational exposure and wore no protection, AND were smokers. If this was my house, I'd either leave it alone, or cover it with sheet rock or plywood and forget it. If it's gotta go, test it or look at it under a microscope. If it is asbestos, in my area, I'd get a respiration filter, goggles, and rip it out. Asbestos is a mineral that is quite inert. It causes health issues because it is shaped in a spindle, sharp on both ends and is thus inflammatory. A healthy person's immune system will simply form a collagen sheath around it and isolate it from causing any health issues. And if there is no respiratory exposure, there really is minimal health risk from a single project in a non-smoker.


Switching 15 amp breaker to 20 amp for AC unit After moving into my new home I noticed there was only one 20 amp breaker in the box.  The AC unit was wired into it but since it was winter and I didn't need AC I unhooked it to wire in the 220 for my dryer.  My question is can I take one of the empty 15 amp breakers in the box and change it out to a 20 amp so I can have my AC and dryer both wired in?

Thanks!

Yes you can swap breakers out, but take extreme care to match wire to breaker.  Don't use 14 gauge (generally white) wires for a 20 amp circuit.  Also note that most 220V circuits in the USA require a tandem breaker taking two slots.

Investing in an electrical permit is highly recommended, if your jurisdiction will inspect at the end of the job.

Yes given the following is true:

What you are asking is can you re-purpose the panel slot where you have a non-used 15 amp breaker , remove it and install a 20 amp breaker and then hook your existing dryer wire to that new 20 amp breaker?

  If your panel will allow you to install a 20amp breaker there then Yes
  you can.

See picture below as an example

By All means there should be no reason that you could not do it - except and unless your panel prohibits a 20 amp breaker in that slot.

EDIT 7-14-2018

For those that took that quick thought on the OPS question and were thinking about wire ratings Please read the OPS question again.

The Op has two wires coming into his panel :
One for his Dryer and One for his AC. The WIRES already EXISTS.
The Issue is the OP only has one 20AMP Breaker in his panel. Op wants to know if an UNUSED 15 AMP breaker slot Can be converted for use with a 20AMP breaker by installing a 20AMP Breaker!!


What could be causing a urine smell in our bathrooms? I live in a home built in 2006. We are a clean family and have no pets. In ALL three of our bathrooms I am smelling an odor of "old urine". I do have a 3-year-old son so at first I thought he was simply missing the toilet in his bathroom, but days after both my husband and I noticed the same smell in the other two restrooms. I cleaned all with bleach thoroughly and still. . .the odor remains. Could this be something with our plumbing? Can we do a cleansing of the plumbing in the house?

Being a landlord I have tenants that just don't like to clean/scrub toilets weekly... try once or twice a year...  however they do sometimes call up and say my toilet smells when I flush it.  Every single time I have had this the solution has been the same with tenants... clean it with toilet bowl cleaner including under the RIM and clean it about 5 or 6 times as so much stuff is stuck everywhere... even change cleansers every other week.. but not in the same day (don't mix chemicals)...

Another possibility is the kid peed on the walls.. wash them.

Another possibility is ... are there warm air floor ducts near the toilet... maybe the kid pees in them for fun??? lift the covers and have a look... I did find one grill that was covered in pee spray... in a guest bathroom... once upon a time.

Another possibility there is a bad seal or no seal under the toilet... there is supposed to be a foam or wax ring under the toilet that keeps the air and water in the sewer system separate from the air and water in your house.  I have had one instance in 20 years of a urine smell that happens every time you flush that cleansers did not solve... it turned out be a foam ring that was not wide enough to fill the gap between the floor and the bottom of the toilet and every time you flush - air from the sewer passes by after the water has passed by.  Strangely there never were any water leaks that anyone ever noticed.

THe only way to check this is to remove the toilet by unscrewing the floor bolts, lifting and looking to see what is underneath... before you do this you might want to buy 3 regular wax rings and 3 extra thick wax rings... so you can choose which you want after you lift...  if the rings are foam you might notice how one end might be squished and the other end appears full height... the full height is your clue that air might be getting through...   Personally I don't care for the foam rings (hardware stores charge more for these than wax.. but it is harder to determine if you have a good fit.. with wax... it all just squishes out if it's too much and you get a good seal.

The last and least likely idea is that there is an issue with the vent stack for each toilet.  Don't know the reputation or experience of your builder or the care with which city inspectors review builder work before signing off... but... you might want to check if there is a clear path from the stack inside the wall behind the toilet to the roof.  Start with a quick look at each roof vent (the little chimney sticking out through the shingles) and see if you can see down it.. or is it plugged with a bird nest or some dead critter?

In very old houses, often the floorboards are wet (there is a hand-held instrument which measures the amount of moisture in a particular area); I suspect that such moisture can contain urine and I know from experience that there can be LOTS of mold growing under the flooring!

BTW, does no one know anymore that the word "smell" is a VERB, not a noun (odor, fragrance, scent.......)but not "smell".


How do I fix a couch with a protruding spring? I have a fairly nice couch, about 8 years old, but just today I noticed that there was a sharp protrusion coming out the side. It has not yet punctured the fabric, but it seems like a strong wind might cause it to do so.

I turned the couch over, and pulled out some of the fabric staples so I could get a look in there, and I do see a straight piece of metal heading out the side and causing the protrusion. It's the same kind of metal as the springs, though like I said, it's straight, not coiled, which would lead me to suspect that it is supposed to be in that general area. Though obviously it shouldn't be protruding, so I wonder if it got "dislocated" so to speak.

There are two main problems: 1. I don't actually know where it should go (or how it should get there), and 2. it's really quite difficult to get at. I can see it, behind a piece of wood, but I can't fit my hand in there. How can I fix this?

Here's a picture of the problem:

And here are two views from underneath/inside the couch:

One of your spring wires is slipping sideways and poking your upholstery. The spring wires are held to the sinuous springs by metal clips; apparently that wire's clips are loose and are allowing the spring wire to get out of place. (Has someone been jumping on your couch?)

Your first step is to get access to the underside of the couch. Yes, you have to take off the dust cover fabric that covers the bottom of your couch and keeps your cats from hiding there, but there's nothing to be done.

With the dust cover off, you can try to slide the spring wire back into place. My guess is that's going to be very difficult, as those clips are pretty strong (although apparently not strong enough), but if it works then good on you. If not, then you'll have to cut the excess spring wire off, close to the nearest sinuous spring. The wire is quite hard (much harder than copper wire), so you'll need a good pair of cutters to handle it, otherwise you'll damage the cutters.

Now, you need to tighten the metal clips on that wire, and probably on all the wires unless you mind risking another wire going walkabout. Here, you'll need a strong pair of pliers or vice-grips. The goal is to prevent that spring wire from sliding further.

Finally, reattach the dust cover (which doesn't need to look good, unless your guests are in the habit of lifting up and examining the bottom of your couch).

I had the same problem and used zip ties to hold it together.  A year later it is still holding.


How would I ground an internal ethernet surge protector? I have a Cat-6 cable running to an external PoE security camera that I'd like to have surge protected, but I'm unsure how to ground the protector. It has a prong coming off that I assume is the ground wire, but I don't know where to connect this. Is there an adapter to connect it to a close-by outlet and use that as ground? I feel that the location of the surge protector (indoors, about 8 feet high) is too far to try to attach it to an outdoor "to earth" pole.

Here is a link to the surge protector I'll be using.

It's like the old three wire to two wire plug adapters that had the grounding wire. That attaches to the screw on the outlet cover. You may want to get new screw that is bare metal and not coated to make better contact.

If it is UTP CAT6 then you don't need a ground.  If it isn't then you ground it like you would any other electrical component.  Might just run a piece of 14 gauge wire over to an electrical box and tie it in there.


How to fix a poor plumbing installation resulting in severe odor problems? After reading this related question and checking that the wax seal is OK, I assume I have a problem with the trap, but where's the trap? The outline of the plumbing in my home (a bit simplified) is like this:

Legend:

Blue: the main pipe that comes from the bathroom to the city wastewater system through the house basement.
Yellow: City wastewater (I can't touch it).
Red: The problem.

Chronology:

When I bought the house, there was a bad smell in the bathroom. I assumed it was because nobody lived there for months.
After some weeks, the bad smell hadn't dissappeared, so I checked the bathroom (everything right), then I opened a manhole I found in my garden (the red part). I found it dry and had a strong bad smell.
After asking to a professional plumber, we decided to make a trap there with a pipe. Something like this:

This got rid of the bad smell for 3 months, but after it appeared again. Then we cleaned the strap and the bad smell dissappeared again for another 3 months.

Of course, that's not a good solution for 2 reasons:

We have to clean the trap (at least) 4 times every year.
Worst: after a couple of month the main pipe is full of water because it doesn't have enough slope. I'm afraid a day it can explode and flood the basement.

So, the question is: how can I fix this? There are no other traps in the house, should I make one? Or there is a simpler way to fix it?

On top of looking for a dried out trap I would check your vents. I had a squirrel build a nest in a vent pipe and plug it so when you flushed it pulled the water out of the other traps and let the smell in. I had to make a cap with vent holes to keep the little bugger out.

That's a very odd setup & I'm surprised by the Plumber's actions. If I were the Plumber, I would've piped a trap in the manhole hole & dropped a pipe to even just make loose contact or within 25 to 50mm of the city's pipe. This would either eliminate the quarterly cleanouts or drastically reduce the need for them.

And definitely, put traps under your sinks & even under the toilet if it's a straight shot situation now. But yes, the red box is your main & initial problem.

If you're not allowed to do any of the above, then your manhole cover needs to be turned into a manhole grate (this should be a requirement & figured out VERY long ago), not only for ventilation but also so rainwater can clean out the red box for you. After or along with that, put a trap absolutely wherever you want (just 1) in the blue line.


How do I cleanly cut threaded stainless .24" rods? I have tried hack saw, manual bolt cutters,  plasma cutter - all of which mess up the thread and make it tough to get the nut on. What's the best tool for this? Ideally something under $50 or something rentable? I have a lot of rods to cut (need to make about 50 cuts).

The nuts will be put on once and not removed. I can leave one of the ends unfinished so the nuts don't come off, but one end still needs to be pretty so I can get a nut on in the first place.

A 4.5 inch angle grinder with a thin cutoff disk is the tool I'd reach for first, after threading the nut on.

If you don't have one but do have a circular saw, and the lengths you are cutting allow, an abrasive cutoff blade in the circular saw can also work. This one is listed for less than $2.50

Expect sparks. Clean out all sawdust if you use one of these in a saw that you also use to cut wood with.

For larger scale projects they do make a 14" chop saw version.

You can additionally clean up the cut threads with a triangular file or a thread-restoring file.

I know this question was asked ages ago but I have been using a really great tool I picked up in Australia. Its a hydraulic threaded rod cutter, been using it for almost three years now and never had to clean up the thread or chamfer the edge in between uses. The models ive got is the M-40L which is electric hydraulic and picked up their new portable manual hydraulic model (Model DW-400). These tools are awesome and cut like butter without even needing a hotworks permit. Company in Aus is called stainelec hydraulic equipment for those who are interested.


Electric Hot Water Heater-Draining or Not after 8 months of non-use In a vacation home, we installed a new electric hot water heater last year. The vacation home was not used for about 8 months. The breaker to the hot water heater has been off and the main water shut-off valve (into the house) was turned off.

Different acquaintances have different opinions on whether to drain some of the hot water heater before turning on the main water valve as we return to the vacation home.

What will be best to extend the life of the hot water heater? Any other reason to do or not do the draining?
And, if draining, what would the proper order/steps in the process be?

Thank you.

First off -- if your tank has been sitting idle eight months while full, there's a good chance that it's produced some hydrogen gas.  To fix this, go up to the highest hot water faucet in the house and open it, but do not have any open flames or lit cigarettes present, and do not turn on any lights or appliances where the faucet is.  If hydrogen is present, you will hear a hissing noise and/or see bubbles if you take a sample of the hot water with a glass.  Keep the faucet open until the hissing stops and hot water flows steadily from the tap.

Second, "draining" a hot water heater is a misnomer -- your goal is to remove sediment from the heater, and that requires some oomph to push the sediment bits out.  See this answer by BMitch for his suggestions as to flushing a typical residential tank like yours.

Finally, you may run into problems with stinky rotten egg smells in your hot water even after a flush -- hydrogen sulfide can also be a problem for idle hot water heaters, depending on your water supply and anode chemistry.  Spiking the tank with hydrogen peroxide when you bring it back into service is a common, cheap solution to this problem -- a tee piece and valves can be used to provide a place to add it to the heater.  There is more documentation on the peroxide fix available from Water Heater Rescue in case you want to try it, by the way.  (Another trick for stinky heaters is an aluminum/zinc alloy or powered anode, but that doesn't always work if a heater is left idle for very long periods of time.)


What is this shower head? I have this shower head that I am trying to find another one of and I can't seem to find this exact type anywhere. Most of them have a flat front with little plastic orifices that let the water out, but those always clog up. This head has been serving reliably for over 20 years, so I need to know what type this is, and where I might find a suitable replacement.

Thanks!

Years ago I purchased a shower head that at the time was called "The Big Head" and I loved the shower experience. Fast forward to today and I searched for a similar replacement. I found the same shower head but it now is a "water saving" model; same design slightly less water. I bought 2 and I think they are great. It is made by delta with a model 52650-PK and can be purchased at any store that sells Delta products . I bought mine at Home Depot using the Delta #52650-PK for around $15.00. When I built my house 21 years ago, one of the showers had that same head you are looking for, and I replaced it with the one mentioned above. I like the new one better.  my 2 cents


Want to switch to tankless, but can I use my existing wiring? The tankless water heaters I am looking at require 8 AWG wire but the existing wiring is 12 AWG.

Can I do this without having to rerun new wire?

If a heater requires 8 AWG wire,  it's because it requires more electricity than a smaller wire is capable of safely delivering.  If you used the 12 AWG wire, first the 20A breaker would trip, but if that was upgraded (DO NOT) then the wire itself would turn into a heater and burn down the house.

What I'm saying here is that when too much electricity is run through a wire that is too small, it heats up.  Wire sizes are based on keeping a wire cool enough to not cause a fire when it's used.  Wire sizes are hard requirements, not suggestions.

The only option here is to run new wire or choose a smaller water heater.

8AWG is typically used for 40 amp circuits. Assuming North America, that's 4800 watts.

12AWG can handle 20 amps (2400 watts at standard voltage), so in order to use the same wires all we need to do is reduce the current, and we do that by raising the voltage. 8AWG is used for 40 amp (4800 watt) circuits.

The extra-good news is we only need to double the voltage, and you can do that with a small rewiring at the panel, no transformers needed. We can now send 4800 watts at 240 volts over 12AWG wire - it's now only 20 amps.

Wether the tankless heater can handle 240v is a different question. It might be switchable - two 2400w elements connected in series or in parallel. If that is the case then your expenses are one 20 amp double-pole breaker and 5 minutes reconfiguring the heater.

If the heater is not configurable then you use a step-down transformer at the heater, which will probably cost at least as much as new wiring.

All the above assumes the heater uses 40 amps at 120v, single phase. Honestly, I think this is unlikely as it's very rare for high-power appliances to use plain 120v. If it is already a 240v heater, and you still want to use the same wiring, then you need a step-up transformer at the panel AND a matching one at the heater.

At this point new wire will definitely be cheaper.

In summary, no, you don't have to run new wire. But running new wire may end up costing a lot less.


Which Kitchen outlets do NOT need GFCI? I have the 2 circuits in the kitchen with GFCI outlets, but I'm not quite sure which other ones do NOT need GFCI. Other circuits in the kitchen include Microwave, Fridge, and Dishwasher. It makes sense to me to not have the fridge on GFCI though.

The NEC (NFPA 70 2011 edition) requires GFCI receptacles in kitchens of dwelling units where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces. It does not mention a distance requirement in kitchens.
The distance requirement of 1.8 meters (6 feet) is for sinks located in areas other than kitchens.
Section 210.8 A of NFPA 70 2011 Edition deals with GFCI protection in dwelling units (see below).

210.8 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel.
Ground-fault circuit-interruption for personnel shall be provided as
required in 210.8(A) through (C). The ground-fault circuit-interrupter
shall be installed in a readily accessible location. Informational
Note: See 215.9 for ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for
personnel on feeders.
(A)  Dwelling Units.   All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in 210.8(A)(1)
through (8) shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for
personnel
(1) Bathrooms
(2) Garages, and also accessory buildings that have a floor located at
or below grade level not intended as habitable rooms and limited to
storage areas, work areas, and areas of similar use.
(3) Outdoors
Exception to (3): Receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a branch circuit dedicated to electric snow-melting,
deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment shall be permitted
to be installed in accordance with 426.28 or 427.22, as applicable.
(4) Crawl spaces — at or below grade level
(5) Unfinished basements — for purposes of this section, unfinished
basements are defined as portions or areas of the basement not
intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas,
and the like
Exception to (5): A receptacle supplying only a permanently installed fire alarm or burglar alarm system shall not be required to have
ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection.
Informational Note: See 760.41(B) and 760.121(B) for power supply requirements for fire alarm systems.
Receptacles installed under the exception to 210.8(A)(5) shall not be
considered as meeting the requirements of 210.52(G).
(6) Kitchens—
where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces
(7) Sinks — located in areas other than kitchens where receptacles are
installed within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the outside edge of the sink
(8)
Boathouses

Another reason the NEC probably didn't require GFCI on dedicated appliances like refrigerators and dishwashers is that many manufacturers had previously connected the neutral and ground wire together in which some electrical current may return to the source through the ground wire tripping GFCIs. I believed UL required this at one point. I don't know if newer appliances still have this.

Most electrical fixtures and appliances these days are double insulated and usually don’t have a problem. Just be aware that not all 3-wire appliances will work properly when directly plugged into a GFCI circuit.


How to fix the Sputtering faucets in bathroom with air locked in pipes The hot water faucet is Sputtering heavily. I tried opening up all faucets in the house and let the water run for more than 10 minutes, but the Sputtering continues. This is in the upper level bathroom and only the hot water faucet is Sputtering.

Movement in the hot water supply line below the sink may be touching the shutoff valve thus creating a resonant effect. Try partially closing the hot water shutoff valve to determine if it's modified angle stops the sputtering.
If this stops the sputtering, dampen movement in the hot water supply line or block anything that could touch the shutoff valve when it's completely open.

The air should have bleed off when you had the Hot water running for 10 minutes.Since it hasn't removed all the air in the Hot water line it could be an indication that air is entering which means there is a leak .
An easy way to verify there is a leak in your water supply system is to make sure all faucets and valves are closed. Go to your water meter and observe the dial face. If it is an analogue-type meter there should be a smaller (sometimes triangular shaped) dial on the face. If it is spinning there is a leak in the plumbing. A digital meter will show a leak if the last digits are increasing.
You may want to trace the Hot water pipes starting at the tank and if accessible look for signs of water leaks.


How should I seal a shower base that is leaking? I have a shower stall with a cement-like slab base.  The shower base is ancient and has developed some cracks.  The top surface has some sort of sealant which has worn away, with the result that water can leak down into the slab.

I don't see water damage in the ceiling of the room below, but am worried nonetheless.  I tried to re-seal the slab with some garage floor "epoxy" paint, but after 6 months that surface has bubbled and cracked.  I'm not sure why it bubbled, as I did a pretty thorough job of roughing the surface for it to seal to.  As the bubble was in the same place as the original crack, perhaps there is some relation?

Is there a better material to use to seal such a surface?

This happened to me in a previous apartment due to an improper shower pan/missing-concrete installation when the complex was built.  What the restoration guy did was cut out the floor of the tub, pour concrete over the subfloor, then used layers of fiberglass mats and resin to complete the restoration.

Hope that helps.

Not sure. I did use a sub one time who resurfaced a bathtub for a client. I think he gave the tub a new coat of ceramic - on top of the existing. If you could find someone like that I think it might be worth asking the question. Sorry, not much help, just an idea.

Roy


Can I use existing heater wiring to supply a sub-panel for two circuits? I'm converting an existing sauna room to infrared. It currently has one 240/30A circuit. I have two heaters and one power supply/controller. Before purchasing I believed the power supply would handle powering both heaters from one on input side, but now I know two circuits are needed (PS has 4 inputs/4 outputs)
Each heater is 13A. Rather than run a 2nd circuit from the subpanel (would be difficult), I am hoping to add a small sub panel to split the 30A into two 15A circuits. The 30A is already coming from a subpanel but I wouldn't be making any changes there.
Is this approach ok or do I need to run a 2nd circuit?

So L1/N1 - L4/N4 on input side, L10/N10 - L40/N40 on output side
240v/30A coming in. I'm getting from this conversation that I'll need to replace the feed side 30A breaker with a 40A or 50A?

If the owners manual/installation instructions say two 240v 15A circuits are required then you are good to go if you mount a new subpanel with two 240v 15A breakers. Those instructions are part of the NRTL Listing and override general NEC provisions.
If the instructions don't specify then IR saunas are normally considered "fixed electric space heating" which NEC 424.3 designates as continuous load, so circuits are calculated at 125% of nameplate. So the branch circuit from a new subpanel would need to be 20A.
For the feeder calculation there is a little, but very little, wiggle room, for the feeder for the new subpanel. Then general rule in 220.51 says the feeder is to be calculated at 100%, but then there is an exception that allows an authority having jurisdiction to allow reduction under cycling conditions. I doubt many local inspector would grant this permission.
Edit: Now seeing the nameplate says 10.4A, not 13A. Then 10.4 x 125% = 13A. It appears the 13A is the circuit requirement, not the actual heater draw. So two 15A receptacles on separate 15A breakers being fed by a 30 feeder should be fine.

The posted pictures help a lot. Your heating elements are only 10.4 A each, so you don't need to change the breaker. The 13A in the part number is not the ampere rating.
You need to wire L1 and L2 together and N1 and N2 together in the control box. Each Ln is not indicating a phase but an input to the relays which are all isolated from each other so you have the option to run all the heaters on seperate breakers.
It looks like the equipment is only rated for 20A per circuit. This means that if you draw enough current through one heater to trip the breaker (say during a malfunction) then you may start the controller on fire before the breaker trips. In this case, I would recommend going with the subpanel and two 15 A two pole breakers feeding each of the two inputs you need to power. The only way it would work by pig-tailing is if all components are rated at the breaker capacity up to the point of additional circuit protection.


How can I drill a big diesel tank without emptying it first? Need to make a hole in a big steel diesel tank. I would say it has 5000 liters capacity, and it should have at least 2/3 filled or more.

Metal Sheet: At least 3 mm thick.

Drill hole is 1" or 2", not sure. It's for an ultrasonic meter.

Problem is if I go drilling, all the swarf can get into the diesel. Second problem is to avoid blowing myself up.

How would you do this?

This is a true case, not an academic question.

About diesel flammability, this is not the first time I hear something like:
it's diesel, you can light a cigar with a propane torch while drilling it

These are similar installation, most of them had detachable parts or had a NPT thread built in already.

Seriously: You just don't.
Reasons:

You'll never be able to guarantee you didn't contaminate the fuel unless you clean it thorougly after the work, which you cannot with all the diesel in there. That bears great (financial) risks. If you sell that stuff you might even get sued. Special drills and precautions will surely reduce that risk, but it will still be there.
Any hole added after the tank has been varnished / coated damages that layer and the walls of the hole are naked as well. That is a starting point for corrosion. There is a reason coating is the last thing to do in such constructions.
Finally: Would you rely on statements such as "Diesel has a high flaming point" or "use argon on the empty part, to suppress fire"? With your Life? Really?! If someone told me to drill into so much as a tin can filled with diesel, I'd tell em to have fun trying themselves. In you case 3500L. Obviously Diesel is not an explosive so the effect is different but just for the giggles I did some math: The energy in that tank is equivalent to about 340000 kg of TNT, yep 340 metric tons.

Solution: Hire a professional to do the job.
They know what they're doing and they bear the risk and liability.
There's a reason they're called professionals.

Some random thoughts:

I wonder if it could help things to pour liquid nitrogen over the spot where you want the hole for a few hours before starting (and while you're making the hole)  You'd be cutting into a slab of congealed diesel fuel that would hold back the diesel, and collect any shavings...

Of course, the low temp might change the steel strength and brittleness for the worse...

Are there water-jet cutters that can handle this thickness of steel?


What type of lag bolts should I use for a deck? I am looking at galvanized lag bolts (for the ledger) and carriage bolts (for attaching the beam to the post) for a deck. I can't find "hot-dipped galvanized" bolts/lag screws only galvanized. Is there any difference between "hot-dipped galvanized" and products labeled "galvanized finish" or can I use "galvanized finish" bolts on my deck? Should I instead get the stainless steel variety?

Here is what I was looking at:

1/2 in. x 6-1/2 in. Galvanized Carriage Bolt

1/2 in. x 4 in. Galvanized Hex-Head Lag Screw

You may not use electro-galvanized bolts for ledger or joist-beam attachments.

See IRC 502.2.2.1. Hot dipped or stainless steel only.

Electro-plated is also not appropriate for contact with treated lumber.

It may be that the bolts you listed are hot-dipped, but usually those magic words are listed, due to the code requirements.

You can find stainless lag bolts at any local Fastenal Industrial Store.  I would never suggest Home Depot or Lowes for that matter when looking for structural fasteners.. MSC is another good supplier.   Carriage bolts usage?  try to find Zinc coated carriage bolts not the galvanized form, they tend to be Stronger and will last for years.

Don White.


What type of drywall tape should I use for a drywall to plaster patch? What would be the best drywall tape for drywall to plaster patch?
The patch is on a non-insulated garage ceiling, so there will be temperature swings from 0 to 100 probably through the year.

I had to patch because of some water damage, the old material is plaster over rocklathe (3/4" total), and new is just a dual layer of 3/8" drywall.

I have setting type compound, but I'm not sure of which tape would hold up better for these circumstances.

I like the mesh tape for this sort of thing - because you can get material through it, and it seems less prone to peel.

The self-adhesive aspect is not all that significant - it's merely holding it (barely) in place until it's embedded in compound. The compound is what actually sticks things together.

Tape will not fix this mess. You need to first pull the sheetrock down and shim it so that it's flush and fits the hole. You should try to get 1/4" or lower gap. Then tape it and spackle.


How can I safely work around power lines? I have to do some painting and repair work on the outside of the house near the incoming power line. The repair is pulling off molding and replacing it as well as painting the surrounding area.

I am going to get a fiberglass ladder to work around the area but is that enough? I will be so close that I am bound to touch it and it scares the crap out of me.

What else should I do to get this work done and still be alive to enjoy it after?

Call your utility company and have the power shut off at the pole for the duration of your work in that area.

Edit:  As expected, some people don't like my answer.  I have decades of electrical and electronic experience and I suspect those who don't like my advice do not have a solid education/experience in basic electrical theory and practice.  However, I assure you that the wires are not as dangerous as popular ignorance imagines.

Climb up and have a close look at the wires you will be near.  If the utility is on the ball, they will be completely wrapped in insulation with no exposed metal—except for the neutral—and the connections (between the utility wires and the leads to the meter socket) wrapped in electrical tape.

If the wires are old, possibly there is some cracked insulation, maybe even seriously cracked enough for some bits of conductor to be exposed.  If cracking is serious or there is substantial cracking, call the utility and have them upgrade or wrap the wires.  They should do this for free.

If the wires are in good repair, you can safely work alongside them, even while touching them.  Respect them and keep all forms of metal away from them:  no metal hammer parts, paint roller, crowbars, putty knives, wedding rings, wristwatch, etc.  Use your fear of them to keep their position firmly in mind at all times.

If after working close to them and you still can't see yourself getting any closer, then by all means, call the utility and have them de-energized.  This may require a permit and inspection, so it may be days before power can be reconnected.  (I know permits and inspections don't make any sense, but the administrating authority is "just ensuring safety"—and making a living.)

If you were to fall off the ladder and the wires provided an opportunity to grab to save yourself, I would risk doing so.  Probably the arresting force will bend the weather head, and might pull apart the electrical connection.  After safely landing, keep the bare ends away from everything, and wrap them with electrical tape once you are steady on your feet.


What should I do if the AFCI breaker neutral pigtail is too short? I am wiring a house that I built, and code says I need an AFCI for the bedroom circuit.

The panel that I will be installing this AFCI breaker in is a subpanel, so my ground/neutrals are on 2 separate buses on opposite sides of the breaker panel.

Can I tie the AFCI white pigtail wire in to the ground bus, or does it need to go over the neutral bus? The reason I'm asking, is because the wire is kind of short. To run across to the neutral bus, I would have to splice an extension to the the AFCI white pigtail wire, and run the extension over to the neutral bus. How do you guys work with a situation like this?

I have all my 120v breakers on the left side (where the ground bus is), and my 240v breakers on the right side near where the neutral bus is.

The AFCI wire needs to connect to the neutral bus. Put it on the other side, or add on to the length of the wire with a wirenut.

My guess about the wire nuts is that a load center is not a junction box. My inspector passed me with the same issue.


Is 12-gauge wire adequate to run into between a 7000 watt generator and circuit box? I have a Briggs and Stratton model 040301A stand-alone generator I bought used I'm trying to figure out what gauge wire I use to feed my circuit box. When I took it apart it had a black and a red wire plugged into its terminal and they were 12 gauge wire it also had a white pig tail looks like gauge 8 wire twistid to the generators red and black lead. And it has a negative ground block that you would put the ground wire in and tighten it down. This generator has a 30 amp breaker on it but it is rated for 50 amps. Is the 12 gauge wire big enough to run into my circuit box? This unit is only powering a garage that I do not have any power to I am using this generator as my power source. Please help

No, 12 AWG conductors are not large enough for 30 amperes.

Powering a structure is a complex task, which would require more details than can be provided in a short form Q&A site like this.  If you need help with a small portion of this project, you might find help here.  As for planning the entire project, this is not the place for that.

My advice would be to hire a local licensed Electrician, even if only for the planning part of the project.

You need some 4 conductor #10 cord and a suitable plug and receptacle for 30 amps.

Here is a sample of the plug you need for most generators:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Y4FQSI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01

** DANGEROUS ADVICE REMOVED **


Can I run a sub-panel with only 3 conductors? I am going to be adding a 3-wire fed subpanel to a dwelling. My understanding of the plan of attack is attached below (Please forgive my crappy, minimalistic MS-Paint schematics).

As you'll notice, the ground and neutral are bonded in both the subpanel and service panel. My concern with this is any power on the neutral bar of the sub panel will also be carried by the ground bar, and my fear is that could cause current to flow to anything that's connected to ground, such as the electric stove chassis, any computer cases, light switches, etc.

My plan, attached below (Again, MS-Paint), isolates the ground and neutral bars, and adds a ground electrode at the sub panel. My thought is that this will keep power that is on the neutral off of the ground lines, and off of any metal objects attached to ground(stove chassis, computer cases, etc).

Do my concerns with Plan A have any merit, and if so, would Plan B solve the issues I am worried about?

If Plan B doesn't address my concerns, what can be done to prevent anyone from getting shocked when they touch something that's connected to ground?

I should mention that I am aware that a 3-wire setup is not code. Adding a 4th conductor is not an option, as the person in charge doesn't have the money for that.He has been assured by a trusted, old-school electrician that a 3-wire setup will work, but will not be up to current codes. As such, code compliance isn't my goal, so much as base-line safety is.

Plan A is NO.  An open neutral will put 120V on every grounded surface (i.e. light switch cover screws).

Plan B is NO.  A ground fault will put 120V on every grounded surface.

Also, plan B will fail to trip breakers in the event of a high current ground fault.  It is a terrible plan.

If you want to do it with 3 wires, you have two options, one bad.

Install 120V-only service.

Your 3 wires are L1 Hot, Neutral and Ground.

Install 240V-only service.

Your 3 wires are L1 Hot, L2 Hot and Ground.   Use exclusively 240V loads (easier than it sounds) and install NEMA 6 outlets exclusively.   It is not legal to do this in residential space or other domicile (hotel rooms etc.)

The problem with this strategy is keeping it pure. Some yutz will want to install a 120V load later, and he'll bootleg neutral which will render it unsafe the same as Plan A.

Transformer

This only requires 2 wires, but it requires a transformer.  In this case you make the outbuilding its own main panel, with its own local grounding system.   It is electrically isolated from the supply by the transformer, so neutral is locally derived and you don't (and shouldn't) connect it to the main building's neutral/ground in any way.

Costwise, there's a "tipping point" depending on distance, whether the cost of wire justifies the transformer.  For very long runs, there's another tipping point where "step-up" transformers make sense.   This is why Tesla won the war of the currents.

What about Plan A but add a Subpanel earth ground connected to the Subpanel ground bar (which is bound to the Subpanel neutral bar)?


Need the name of a small pin used as a cheap door hinge What is the name of this pin?
I have a cheap piece of furniture where two of these pins are used as hinges: one side goes in to the frame and one side goes in to the door. I lost one of the pins and I can't find the name of it to buy another one.

If it's 5mm in diameter, it's a common shelf pin / shelf support.

Divided pin. They are used for shelf rests but also as inexpensive hinge pins.


TRane furnace error code 3 blinks Fan runs continuously no heat 3 blinks error code
So I've learnt it seems a draft problem .....
Blew through little hose and clear disconnected exhaust and still nothing any ideas  thanks dave

replace pressure switch it is a possibility that it is bad


Is this white powdery substance on a wood shelf caused by flying termites? There were probably about 100 or 200 so flying termites inside the house two days ago. They were all flying to the ceiling lights, and I placed buckets of water below it and many got in. I also vacuumed the termites in the air and nearly all are gone now. They seem to be coming from inside of the house and the professionals are coming in later in the week.

I noticed this whitish powder on my wood shelf. Are they the eggs of these termites? Or their droppings?  Should I just wipe them away?

If you saw swarming termites in your house two years ago, I hope you had you house treated. If not, they have your home as the food menu.


Why does my ceiling fan light turn off by itself? I have a remote-controlled ceiling fan and light.  I don't run the fan, but when I turn the light on sometimes it will stay on for a long time then just go off by itself.  I have tried both kinds of bulbs, but neither works.  What causes this problem.  Do I have to replace the ceiling fan and light, or can it be fixed?

I bought 2 Hunter Exeter model fans and was running into the problem of the lights cutting in and out after about 10-15 minutes of steady light output.  Both fans were having the same problem. The fans are controlled by radio frequency remote controls - which the instructions say are "paired" with the fan when they arrive.  BUT, you can re-pair them and doing so solved my intermittent light problem.  I only re-paired one of the fans and now both fan lights work properly.  My guess is there was some interference between the remotes for the two fans, and re-pairing one eliminated that interference.

It's because you have the wrong wattage light bulbs in there. Take one out and it will come on and stay on.