Help wiring a Broan Heat/Vent/Light I am remodeling my bathroom and replacing the old HVL with a new Broan 100HL. Rather than use the Broan switch which has 3 switches in 1 gang, I am using a standard switch and a combo switch. I'm not sure my diagram is correct. Would a hot wire need to jump over to the combo switch? It seems to me that the combo switch won't have power in from the panel, therefore it would not have a circuit to break. I'm thoroughly confused and would appreciate any help!  Thanks in advance!!

Since the three switches & devices are all in one circuit, they need to share hot (panel to the switches) and neutral (from the devices back to the panel).
Hot
Take the hot wire off the vent switch. Typically there is a jumper/bridge connecting the two hots (i.e., to make a common hot connection) on the double switch. Assuming that is the case, connect two short pieces of black wire with a wire nut to the hot wire that you removed from the vent switch. Connect one of those pieces to the vent switch and the other to the double switch (heat or light screw, doesn't matter which one).
If there is no jumper/bridge between the two hots on the double switch, then connect three short pieces of black wire with a wire nut to the hot wire that you removed from the vent switch. Connect on to each of the 3 switches (vent, heat & light screws of double switch).
Neutral
Based on your diagram, you appear to be using either separate wires in conduit or a /4 cable - black/white/red/blue, and joining the two separate neutral connections of the HVL together to the white (neutral) wire going back to the panel. If so, that's fine.
However, if you actually have two separate cables - one black/white from vent switch and one black/white/red from the double switch then you have a bit of a problem. Each neutral in a cable has to match the loads in the cable. Based on the diagram, the light & vent (which each typically use < 100W) share a neutral and the heat (typically ~ 1500W) has its own neutral. You can't mix & match neutrals. Either they all get combined and the neutral wire runs next to all the switched hot wires in conduit or in a single cable, or then must be kept matched together. To keep them matched together in cables, the white (neutral) for the light & vent must be together with the switched hots for those devices and only combined together with the heat's neutral in the switchbox - not combined at the device.

You're likely violating local building codes and the NEC with this. If your bathroom is 100% supplied by a single branch circuit then your upgrades must split this into two separate circuits unless a very specific set of circumstances exist here...  with this device you are prohibited from installing it if that condition exists..

Have you pulled a permit?

Have you read the installation guidelines from the manufacturer?

Whenever the manufacturer specifies that the device be contained on it's own branch circuit then you can't install this fixture unless it's supplied by it's own branch circuit!

This fixture CLEARLY states it must be installed on a separate 20A branch circuit.

https://www.broan.com/BroanPublicWebSite/media/BroanUS_Canada/Documents/installation_guides/100HL-Installation-Guide-99045038B.pdf?ext=.pdf

If this is the typical bathroom remodeling job I'd advise you to immediately STOP and assess the existing branch circuits and before you proceed, you must fully understand the codes and rules designed to protect you and your family (and subsequent homeowners) from installing this dangerously inappropriately.


Can two circuits' neutrals be tied together (not a single neutral wire, but two that have been connected)? Related to but different from this question, I have two three-way switches in my house, which are in multi-gang boxes at the top and bottom of the staircase and control lights at the top and bottom landings. I know for a fact, having fixed the "hot" side of the wiring to the three-way switches before, that the switches (along with others in both boxes) are fed by different circuits. However, all of the white neutrals in each box are twisted together into one bundle and wire-nutted; this predates any work I did on the circuit, but I don't know if this is the work of the original electrician or the "handyman" whose work I've been fixing since I moved in.

As these joined neutrals include the travelers of both three-way circuits, the neutrals from the nearest light to each box, and the neutral heading back to the panel from each box, these two circuits' neutrals have multiple junction points that tie the neutrals together.

Is this dangerous (from a fire hazard perspective)? My Google-fu brought up some similar questions, but the answers were all along the lines of answers to the related question in the link: "a shared neutral is bad". However, this isn't a "shared neutral" as in one white wire carrying the load from two circuits; this is two white wires carrying the load from two circuits, but the two white wires are both carrying the load from either circuit. So, to my way of thinking, there's plenty of copper to get the power back to the panel without overheating. And obviously there are no AFCI/GFCI breakers in the house (plenty of GFCI receptacles), because everything on both circuits works fine (they'd trip as soon as I turned a light on otherwise). The only concern AFAIK would be shock safety, as you'd basically have to make sure both of the breakers were off before working in either switch box (something I would do anyway; I wouldn't want ANYTHING hot in either box if I were messing with these switches, regardless of whether the neutrals are separate or not).

EDIT: picture == word*1000:

This is a safety hazard. An electrical system must remain safe (not hurt a user or overheat and cause a fire) even if there is a failure.

In your situation it is true that the neutrals will not be overloaded under normal conditions. But if one of the neutrals were to get disconnected at or near the breaker panel (loose screw or accidental damage to the wire itself) then the other neutral could end up carrying the current for two circuits and overheat and cause a fire.

Ever hear of a multi branch circuit? You can have two circuits share the same neutral wire even but they have to be on opposite phases. If they are on opposite phases then the current carried by the neutral will only be the differential between the two circuits and will never exceed the breakers limit.


Water stain in basement found during inspection in a house We are looking to buy a house and don't have much experience yet (lived in condo most of our lives). We had an inspection in the house that we are looking to buy and some stain was found in the basement on the floor (please see the image). Is this something we should be worried about? Any help is appreciated!

Looks like a pretty small stain. Even if the wastewater pipe is the cause I don't think it would be a big deal to fix. The risk looks pretty small to me.


Goodman Furnace igniter glows but doesn't ignite Specs: Goodman Model GDS80703, over 10 years old, Control board replaced 2 years ago

2 months ago, it just started glowing and not igniting, and after doing some basic troubleshooting (Reboot, clean filters, reset thermostat) the problem wasn't solved

As there was sufficient voltage to the gas valve, I was advised by a tech over the phone to replace the gas valve, and did so, It fired up about three times, and each time it didn't reach the temperature desired

Now, we're back at square one, and so we come to you, the people of the internet, for help.

If you follow the (3) wires from gas valve, two end up on the control board and one goes to a limit switch on the blower. This limit switch was burnt out on my furnace. It's a relatively inexpensive part to replace. Good luck.

use a new hot surface ignitor ----goodman only----no universal they dont line up


How can I install a vanity over this unfortunate plumbing? I have recently removed a vanity from my bathroom and am facing an unfortunate plumbing footprint when trying to put a new vanity in place.

The cold water line runs right against a built in cabinet which I would like to keep in place and the drain for the sink is also the drain for the bathtub in the upstairs bathroom.  So the drain pipe actually comes out of the wall and then into the floor.

My question is will I be able to remove enough material from a new vanity to fit it in this space or will I compromise the structural integrity of the vanity I am trying to install.

The previous vanity that I removed was custom built to fit in the space, ie extra pieces of wood were attached to an old piece of furniture and a piece of marble was cut for the counter top.  Believe me it sounds nicer than it looked.

Here is an image of what I am dealing with.

Cut that pipe out in 2 places. One place is above the bottom shelf of the new cabinet and mid way between the 2 fittings on the upper pipe that goes at a 45 degree angle. Recouple it back together when the cabinet is installed. The supply lines need to be relocated too, but you may be able to move them around to get past their issues.

The cutting of the vent pipe is still taking a small chance it will be difficult to get the pipe back together. As it is you will need to shorten the pipe you cut  out at least by a 1/2" to make room for the stop built in as part of the coupler. You will also need to account for how much out of square the cut has too.

If the upper portion of the pipe has a little upward give to it, it will be a lot easier to rejoin. If not you will need to be really assertive on getting it back together again.

Looks like it could be a project to reroute the pipes.  I would modify the new vanity.  Just attach it to the wall good.  Would be a good idea to add a nailer to the other side of the pipe


How to PROPERLY test that your smoke detectors work? I installed two new smoke detectors in my house a few months ago and have been testing them using the 'test' buttons.

Today I decided to give them a more realistic test by placing a burning and then extinguished match underneath them. To my surprise neither was activated.

Thinking this may not have been enough to trigger a modern smoke detector I then removed them from the wall and placed them above a large saucepan of burning paper for around 3 minutes. There was lots of smoke and the flames were only inches below the smoke detectors. Yet again, neither detector sounded an alarm.

I contacted the manufacturer, and they say that this is 'normal' and that their smoke detectors are 'burned toast proof'.

To me this sounds like BS. If 3 minutes sitting directly above flames and plumes of smoke is not considered enough to set the alarm off then just how alight would my house have to be before I was alerted?

So, how should I properly test these smoke detectors in a way that the manufacturer cannot simply brush off?

Proper test methods depend on type, as there are different technologies employed depending on model. Some use a photo-sensitive element to "see" smoke, others use a radioactive element to detect products of combustion (even invisible ones), others "see" flames with an infrared detector and others detect heat.

You should test them exactly according to manufacturer's instructions and if they do not perform then replace them immediately. Like any other consumer product, you should deal with the seller and/or supplier and manufacturer for grievances related to defective products.

Exercise your right not to buy crap products and you will end up with reliable smoke/fire/CO detectors.

You can take them to your local fire department and they will assess the smoke detectors. What you are describing doesn't sound right to me. Usually a warm breeze from the oven door is enough to set off a modern smoke detector.


Home electric circuit goes dead without tripping breaker I have a 15 amp circuit in my home with 8 outlets.  Every couple of months it mysteriously stops working, however, the breaker doesn’t trip.  After a couple days I re-apply the breaker and all is good.   Is this dangerous?  A breaker problem?  Have mice eaten the wires?

I would be verifying that all 8 outlets are not working, this is quite common with backstab outlets that are daisy chained. The problem is usually found at the first non working outlet or the last working outlet. This failure is much more common than a circuit breaker failure. The open circuit condition can be on the black or white wire, if it starts working after pulling the outlet and back stabs were used the outlet should be at a minimum rewired to the screw terminals or replace the outlet with a spec grade 4$ vs a .98$ outlet , but verify the working / non working outlets.
There is a slight possibility of a bad panel with FPR or federal pacific stab lock breakers or a zinsco these are known to have issues and are beyond the average home owner repair, verify all the outlets first next time it goes out.


Is one circuit connected to two breakers safe? We redid our bathrooms and had an electrician come in and put in new wiring for outlets, heater/fan/lights and heated floors. He had to replace the electrical panel, because the house is older (1956) and didn't have enough space to accomplish the task. So he installed a new electrical panel. Everything was fine for a while.

Then the lights started to flicker and electronic devices started to pop on and off.

Then 1/2 the house started to lose power. No breakers were tripped.

We called the electrician and he said the power loss was probably coming from the pole and to call in the power company to check the line.

Power company came out, checked the line and determined it's something in my house that's causing the outage.

Since then the power has gone out for up to 24 hours at a time. Flickering lights signal the outage. Now being an old house they have most of the lights along one line. Dining room light, kitchen fan light and several outlets in our bedroom are on the same line (it's a ranch) on one side of the house, the other side has multiple fixtures and outlets as well. I went down to the electrical panel (surprise nothing labeled) to see which circuit breaker was causing the problem. Went up and down both sides of the panel, but not once did the lights or outlets go out. Finally I turned off one side of the panel (left) and then started to turn on breakers one at a time and discovered 2 separate breakers 6 down from each other combined, turn off the power to the lights and outlets along this line.

Now with the old box, no problems, electric did not flicker, nor did only 1/2 the house lose power.

Question, what did the electrician do and is it safe to be on 2 breakers like that until he can come out and look at the problem?

Thanks

Did the electrician replaced the Service panel only, or (s)he also worked on other things like adding junction boxes and ran new conduits? The problem of 2 breakers (let's call #1 and #7 connected to the same circuit (lights in this case) might not be at the Service panel, but it could be that he had mistakenly connected wire from #7  to the existing light circuit which already had been connected to #1 prior to this, at the new junction box. You need to trace down where the old lighting circuit connected to those #1 and #7 wires.

It is possible for 2 breakers to control the same circuit because you have 2 legs of 110 coming from the pole.  Lets say leg one of 110 coming from the power company is labeled leg A and the other is leg B when combined you get 220V. If breaker # 1 is powered by leg A of the power coming into the panel and breaker # 7 is powered by leg A of the power coming in the panel and the 2 circuits have power meeting each other in an enclosure such as a junction box you could potentially have 2 separate breakers control two separate circuits at the same time.  If you shut off breaker 1 the power would simply come from breaker 7 and if you shut off #7 while # 1 was on the power would come from breaker # 1   You would have to have both breakers off in order to shut down the circuits.  It wouldn't short out because they are pulling from the same leg.  and it would be a mess but you would have to find where the two meet and get it disconnected. Or if you knew what the two lines controlled and there was large enough conductor leaving the panel you could potentially remove one of the breakers and put them both on the same breaker.  Another Idea would be just to shut off one of the 2 breakers but that could cause someone else in the future confusion. If one of the breakers was off at least you would actually have circuit breaker protection.


Secret documents digital safes without an overriding key? Are there any safes which can be opened with a programmable keypad combination or thumb fingerprint but do not come with a key?

I am concerned about the fact that if somebody steals my key they will bypass the digital circuit.

I'm looking for a mid range solution. Box strength is not an issue. Size is about half a meter cubed.

Yes, safes without mechanical key override do exist. Talk to a real safe dealer, not your local big-box store. These will generally also be much stronger against physical attack. They will cost more, and weigh more, than the cheap toys ... and of course if you ever lose the combination you'll need an expert safe man's assistance to recover access to the contents.

Sentry and similar cheap combination-locked boxes are not safes. They're fire chests. If you're looking to protect paper or cds from a house fire, they're surprisingly effective for their price. (I'd recommend at least a 1-hour 350-degree rating.) But they are physically vulnerable in a number of ways, not just the key... and in fact may decrease security by attracting attention.

If you want both fire protection and security in the same box, expect to pay even more per cubic inch of storage. If you want to protect photographic or magnetic media from fire, likewise expect to pay more -- in that case, ask for a "media chest" and explain what materials you're protecting to get the best advice.

If you own the property, a floor safe may or may not give you some of these benefits at lower cost, though that adds installation cost.

Tl;dr: yes, if you're willing to pay for something decent rather that mass-market mismarketed consumer shlock.

um, seems pretty obvious to me.  Buy the one you like that has an over-ride key and then destroy the key?


Soaking tub on the second floor: safe? I am considering getting a soaking tub (pdf here) for my second floor master bathroom. However, I am unsure of how much weight the floor and walls below can support.

The house itself is wood frame pier and beam, built in 1885, with an addition in 1941. The bathroom is roughly 8 ft by 9 ft, and straddles the line between the two, 4 ft in the 1885 half, 4 ft in the 1941 half. The room has 2x10 joists running long-ways under a double layer of 3/4 inch tongue-and-groove subfloor, with an easily accessible 3 ft space underneath (installing the plumbing will be easy!). The walls of the 1941 half are 2x4s at roughly 16 inch spacing, and the walls of the 1885 half has 4x4s at 24in spacing. The 8 ft sides are both exterior walls, and the 9 ft sides are both interior. The 1941 9 ft wall spans a room, otherwise all the walls continue down to the foundation. As far as I can tell, there is no sign of rot, water, or insect damage.

The new bathtub will sit in the corner, with the long edge against the 9 ft side of the 1941 half. It's a two person tub with an "average fill" of 75 gallons, though by my calculations it could hold almost twice that. It will be half-sunk into the floor, with three 9 ft long 2x10 joists supporting it underneath and two 9 ft 2x10 joists (under the floor) holding up the frame. The upper and lower joists rest on top of 2x10s that are directly attached to the outside walls. The upper and one of the lower joists are part of the original 1885 building; the others are new lumber.

I want to make sure that what I'm doing is not only safe, but would pass a building inspection; I don't want to spend a lot of time and money drawing up plans and applying for permits if I don't have a hope of succeeding. Will my floor hold the tub with ample safety margins?

If what you're saying is the tub will be on top of 2x10 at 16" on center spacing, with a span of 9 feet between bearing points that continue down to the foundation, you'll be fine. A drawing of the complex framing you seem to have would help out immensely. I still recommend doing the drawings and getting permits: I have a lot of experience framing houses, but I'm not an engineer. You can find span tables online that can help you determine weight allowance for framing members.

FYI, the 'average fill' is probably based on the displacement of two people in the tub; even if you could fit more water in, you'll probably want to only fill it halfway before two people get in.

No apologies needed.  To determine the structural strength of that side of the house, get 50 pound bags of concrete and just keep adding them until something cracks or buckles. Then count the bags and fix the broken part of the house. So, for example, if it took 250 bags before it broke, then it means you can add an additional 12,500 pounds of dead weight.

All kidding aside, you could build the tub and fill it up with gold bricks and the house would still hold it up.


Washing machine - Will not agitate I have an Electrolux (Frigidaire) stacked washer/dryer combo that is not agitating. The control circuity, lid latch, motor, and belt all seem to work. It fills, drains, spins, and with the lid open at the agitate cycle, and the switch manually engaged, the motor spins. Grasping at straws, I pulled the agitator itself off, and the "drive block" (spline gear) which is lose enough to turn does not turn.

I note that the transmission itself is stationary while the washer is in agitate cycle, but is free to and actually spins itself while in the spin/drain cycle.

It isn't clear at all how the transmission is signaled to engage the drive block, vs spinning the tub.

Is there any more reasonable steps I can take to diagnose and repair?

For clarity, my machine is an Electrolux mex731cfs1

Here's the Sears Help for your washer if it "Won’t agitate or spin."

It says it could be:

The lid lock switch
The washer drive motor
The washer timer

They also have blown-up diagrams of each assembly.  You can buy the replacement parts there.  (Or get the part number and search online.)

You can find the wiring diagram and user manual (not the repair manual) here.

Here is the service manual.  It is $9.95.  I haven't verified the helpfulness of this.


What will happen if I try to apply paint/stain to damp wood? I'm 1000 miles away from home working on a deck for a family member who recently suffered a stroke. He's recovering, but for the time being he's very unsteady on his feet. The deck in question had a lot of mold, and was very slick when wet. I've already pressure washed and cleaned the surface, so that the mold is gone and it's no longer slick. That was the main goal -- in his present state, the deck was outright dangerous; now it's much safer.

However, the deck wood now has no protection against rain and moisture... I just stripped it all away :) If I don't also do something to protect the wood, it'll be slick again in no time at all, not to mention start to rot. My problem is that I'm only here for another couple of days, and the weather is not cooperating with finishing the project. It's dry enough to get out and work without getting rained on, but not enough for wood to dry out. After the last scattered rain, there is no chance it will dry in time for me to do anything before I need to begin the journey home.

I have some Behr Deck Over, which I reckon is either something in between a paint and a stain or just a thick paint. The hope is that it will hold up better and protect against moisture like a stain, but cover the surface more like a paint -- and not show the few remaining bits of old paint, as I was time-constrained in the removal, as well. But still, the wood is kind of damp. At this point, given my time constraints, I'm considering applying it over the damp wood.

My questions are, what will happen if I try to apply this to damp wood? What are my alternatives? Is there anything I can do to improve the chances of a good application? I'm really looking to see if someone will talk me out of this before I do something dumb.

You won't have luck applying paint/stain to a soaking wet deck. If there are common walkway areas on the deck you could put down strips of grip tape along this route. This is tape that has a sandpaper texture to it and is meant for slippery decks and stairs. Maybe not ideal, but a solution until you can properly treat it.

Before applying Bhers “deck over” to any surface damp or not be sure to read reviews and about class action suits . It is thick , and yes covers a lot of flaws but traps moisture . I’ve read about and experienced it lifting off in sheets, with wet rotted wood underneath.


How can I break up a small boulder without power tools? I have a boulder/rock that is about 2 feet long and 1.5 feet in diameter. It is too heavy to lift and I would like to break it into smaller pieces. Without power tools, are there any good methods besides going at it with a sledgehammer?

You can go at it with a sledgehammer (or a smaller hand sledge) and a star drill, and then drive wedges into the holes (or if you are patient, fill the holes with water and let them freeze in the winter.) There are special wedges designed for use in round holes for splitting rock (feathers and wedges seems to find them). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plug_and_feather

Remember to use ear and eye protection.

Another approach from our practical forebears if you just need it out of the way would be to dig a hole 2-1/2 feet long, 2 feet wide and 3 feet deep next to it, then roll it in and bury it.

You could also build a bonfire on or around it, but that has some potential to become more exciting than planned for if the stone has trapped water in it.

If it's in a place that safe to do so, build a fire around it. Let it get very hot. Dump ice water on it. It will shatter.

Source: My dad was a farmer and he told me this a long time ago.


How to remove dry grout How do you remove dry grout on tile. We have tried everything from vinegar to tile cleaner, but nothing is working. Any suggestions?

Your options at this point are scraping it off or dissolving it.  My first suggestion would be contacting the tile manufacturer.  They would have the best idea of what your tile can handle as far as physical abuse or acid.

Scraping

Scraping is attractive as a primary option because you can go slowly and start in a small inconspicuous area to see if it will damage the tile.  There's no perfect tool for this as far as I know.  I'd start with an abrasive sponge (you might get lucky), steel wool (good for streaks) and then lightly attack clumps with a razor, painter's tool or small sharp chisel.  To limit damage to the tile, you want the tool to be as horizontal as you can make it and still work safely with it.  You should quickly determine how much abuse your tile can handle and if a few scrapes ruins your floor.  Most likely it will be a slow and painful process.

Acid

Sulfumic acid will work if the grout is not too thick, the main concern is what it will do to the tile underneath.  Again, find a small spot to test first.  Etching is usually caused because the tile absorbs the acid.  To limit this, I would wet the tile pretty thoroughly with clean water first.  Gloves, mask, and good ventilation are a must when working with the acid.  If the grout is pretty thick, this may loosen it up enough that you can scrub it away with a scraping method.  Follow the instructions and don't let it sit long enough that it eats through the top layer of tile.

Replacement

I wouldn't overlook replacement as a possibility, depending on how many tiles are an issue.  It's entirely possible you will damage the tile trying to remove the grout anyway.  I'm assuming you did the tile work (or you should be calling the contractor to fix this), so you should be able to replace a tile, just break it, scrape up the surrounding grout and install a new one.  If it's old work (and you can find tile that matches), it might be worth a few calls to find what a tile mechanic might charge for a small job.

My wife dropped a full bottle of Balsamic vinegar on our kitchen floor. It immediately attacked the white tile grout and by the time the mess was cleaned up most of the tile grout was gone. The Balsamic vinegar was a blackish colour and the white tiles were not affected at all.


Wiring for ecobee3 lite I recently purchased the ecobee3 lite and am now stuck trying to install them. I have 3 Honeywell thermostats I am looking to replace and my heating system is oil/hot water. My home was built in 1970 and I believe the wiring involved here is pretty old. I am not an electrician but I believe I should be able to handle this project given some help.

For starters, each of my thermostats is hooked up with a red and a white wire, with one additional (blue) wire coming out of the jacket in the wall, but not hooked up to the thermostat:

As far as I can tell, there's no voltage coming from that wire. I checked with a multimeter and it came up 0 every which way I checked it. So then I made my way to the furnace. Here's what I see:

So this box is a Honeywell Aquastat Relay L8148A whose schematic can be found here.

Here are two angled views of the controller that give a better picture of the few different connection points:

Here is the inside of the cover plate for the controller that details the wiring a bit:

As you can see, the main controller has 1 pair of red/white wires labeled Thermostat in the top-left corner. Then there are two transformers affixed to the furnace that also have red/white wires. I'm at a loss because most "add a c-wire" videos show a controller that has 5 different connection points, one of which is clearly labeled C, and they run a wire from there and everything works. I can't find a spot that I'm confident would be a "C" wire spot. The ecobee3 lite offers a PEK but that looks like it also requires more than just two wires to be run into it to operate properly. Many of these smart thermostats assume you are also controlling a cooling system which I am not; I only have a furnace.

So my question is: Can I install an ecobee3 lite myself in this system without a ton of work, or should I just buy something like the Nest E that can power-steal from my furnace?

You have a bigger problem than chasing down a blue wire here

Here's the rub -- the Honeywell L8148A doesn't even provide a C terminal for the blue wire, PEK, or whatever to connect to, as it was designed for dumb mechanical 'stats.  Considering it not only contains a transformer and relay, but a high limit function as well, this leaves you with limited options -- simply replacing it with a separate transformer and relay won't do.  One could add another transformer and relay as an isolation relay, but that's probably more complexity than is called for here, considering that Honeywell makes a more versatile version of what you're looking at, called an L8148J.

Replacing your L8148A with an L8148J configured for a 24VAC gas valve (valve from B1 to B3) lets you connect the C wire to the TV terminal, jumper T to TV, and then pull the jumper from Z to W, connecting R to Z and W to W.  Of course, this all presumes that the cable doesn't transition from 3-wire to 2-wire somewhere in the middle; if it does, then you need to use a PEK or add-a-wire device to handle the situation atop the aforementioned aquastat changeout.

You will want to wire your thermostat with three wires, called R, W, and C. Red is "supply voltage", White is "calling for heat", and Common (often blue) is a ground wire, allowing the thermostat to receive power even when the R-W circuit is switched off. Old-style thermostats are, electrically, simply a switch that connects R & W, which are connected to terminals on your aquastat. So R&W are interchangeable, which is why they're both labeled T/T.

For your new thermostat, it expects to have 24VAC potential between R & C. When calling for heat, it will connect R & W. So you need to identify (using schematics and/or a voltmeter) which of the two T/T terminals you should connect to R, which to W, and where on your aquastat you can connect C. If your board doesn't have a convenient terminal for C, you may need to splice into one of the output legs of the 24VAC transformer.

Once you have a theory of how to do that, it's easiest to try it in the basement standing next to your boiler/aquastat relay. Shut off power to the aquastat relay, wire up the ecobee sitting there in the basement, and then turn on the aquastat. If the ecobee boots up properly, try turning the heat on and confirming it activates the aquastat (you should hear the aquastat relay click, and a circulation pump should turn on). Now you know how things should be wired, and you need to figure out how to connect the cable.

For the cabling, you can either:

run a cable with 3 or more wires run between your thermostat and the aquastat relay - the same as your test rig, but longer; or
maybe use a common maker or isolation relay, depending on the availability of space, power, and the common maker's requirements (for your case I think you're right that the ecobee PEK won't work, but something like the Fast-Stat Common Maker might).

My first step would probably be to check the cable - if it's relatively easy to pull some new thermostat cable through, that's probably your best option. If you can't get a 3-wire bundle between the aquastat relay and this thermostat, then consider things like the common-maker or a power-stealing thermostat.


Toilet not always flushing fully, what could be wrong? I have a toilet that about half of the time doesn't flush fully, but will always flush fine on the second attempt. It does this regardless of the "contents" in the bowl.

I first took a plunger to it, but it didn't help at all. I then came here and read How can I fix a toilet that flushes incompletely? and looked inside the tank while flushing and the flapper seems to be functioning normally. I then read Why do my toilets flush slowly and often incompletely? and cleaned up everything like Inkspeak mentioned in his answer, but still hit or miss. I am starting to wonder if my toilet is as bad as Inkspeak says one of his three toilets were.

I bought this house just a few months ago and it has been happening the whole time. The house was built in 2007 and this is the only toilet that is having the issue. Is there anything else that I could try before I just replace the whole toilet? It seems like the toilet is young enough that it shouldn't have too much build up in it, but I also know that we have rather hard water based off of how fast we see mineral build up in our shower that we didn't see in our previous house.

I will describe the test you need to do to check the toilet.

Remove the tank cover, be sure the tank is full of water to the full mark.
Push the flush handle.
When the rubber flapper flips up, reach down and hold it in the up position until all the water has drained from the tank.

If the toilet flushes completely under this test, but not on it's own, then your flapper is closing too soon, or the tank is not filling as much as it needs to do.  The flapper is a real easy replacement, if the tank is not filling, then the fill valve needs to be replaced.

If it did not flush completely, time to spring and spend 200 bucks for a new Class 5 toilet.  Which toilet to buy is a whole new topic.

Good luck.

It could be something to do with your OFV. The water is not filling up right to the touch point of it. This is why your water is not filling up the cistern and not got enough to flush your toilet


When pigtailing a second load to circuit If I add an outlet near the electric panel and pig-tail the hot wire to an existing 15a breaker do I have to attach the neutral and ground to a specific spot or any open slot on their respective bars?

Any spot on the neutral bar for the neutral, and ground bar for the ground, will do.

The connections on the neutral and ground bars should be in the same order as the corresponding circuit breakers.

This is neater and makes fault-finding easier. It might not be required by regulations, though.


Slightly extending an opening in plywood I'm trying to fit a slightly larger trash can into an opening in thick (about 1") plywood (see photo). Basically, I need to shave off some material in the corners to make the new can fit.

Question is, what is the right way to do it and what tools should be used? So far, I'm thinking about possibly using a hole saw. Or is there a better way?

Correct thing to use in this situation is a rasp -- you are just trying to remove a small amount of material and get it to conform to the existing garbage can.

A coarse file would also work, as would a draw knife or spindle shave.

I would avoid saws, as it is hard to cut relatively small amounts of material out using a saw.

You can get something called a "drill saw bit" which is like a drill bit but with extra teeth along the length so you can move the drill sideways and use it like a (very cheap) router or file. I've never tried them but for the small amount you need to remove they could provide an affordable solution.


Is it safe to ground a portable generator using the house ground at the service panel? I've bought a portable generator that I'll use when the power goes out. The instructions in the paperwork state that the generator needs to be grounded before use. Can I use the house ground at the service panel to ground the generator?

The generator must get its ground from whichever main service panel it feeds (e.g. it could have its own main panel), which in turn must be grounded any way that's legal. If you are simply running extension cords to the generator, it must be grounded legally.

It's legal to share grounds.  You do that by running your own ground strap to the same pipe clamp, pipe or ground rod.  You cannot go inside the other panel.

If generator power is entering the same service panel as utility power, then you absolutely must have some kind of transfer switch, which makes it impossible to have both utility service and generator connected at once.

The transfer switch can be as simple as two 240V breakers with a piece of sliding metal so they can't both be on at the same time.  No big deal.
https://www.google.com/search?q=panel+transfer+interlock&rls=en&tbm=isch&sa=X

dont know where you are but in scotland we dont have transfer switches,but i use a generater for the same reason mines is prob smaller and I move it from room to room so what i have done is put an earth wire from the machine and wired it to the earth pin in the plug so i just plug it into any socket and thats it earthed via the house supply.Dont know what type of socket you have but hope this helps.

best regards john


Can porcelain tiles be installed over ceramic tiles? We have a large portion of our house with ceramic flooring which is now looking very old fashioned.  It has large grout lines (3/8 inch) which are white and almost impossible to keep clean.  We do not want to have the entire floor taken up and replaced and were wondering if new modern porcelain with very minimal grout lines can be installed right over top of the existing ceramic floor successfully.

Although I would never do this myself, eHow has a step-by-step for this.
Keep in mind that doing this will add thickness to the floor, so transitions into other rooms might be tricky. According to This paper "an abrupt increase in
height" of 1/4" (6mm) "is considered to be a threshold level for consideration of trip hazard for a pedestrian".
If this is done in a bathroom, the toilet flange (and/or other fixtures) will likely have to be raised to compensate for the new floor height.

Tile Over Tile Floors
1 Inspect the tile floor and make sure there are no
loose tiles; the existing tile must be
in good shape for re-tiling.
2 Clean the tile thoroughly to remove
any wax or build-ups on the tile
floor. Scuff or sand the tile to make
the surface a little rough; this helps
the new tile bond to the old tile.
Rinse the floor after it has been
sanded to remove any dusty particles.
3 Apply a floor leveler to the whole
surface of the floor. If you have a
raised area, begin there and work your
way outwards in a circular motion. The
floor leveler will fill in previous
grout lines and make the floor level
for the tile over tile application.
Floor leveler is usually latex-based
cement.
4 Use a screed to level the floor; a
screed is usually a long and very
straight board or level that will move
the excess floor leveler to lower
levels and will help you level the
floor. Allow the floor leveler to cure
according to directions, usually 24
hours.
5 Buy thin-set mortar that has a latex
additive in it or replace the amount
of water with a latex additive. Latex
or epoxy type mortars are best for
installing tile over tile. Mix and
apply according to manufacturer's
directions.
6 Set the new tile in small enough
sections as the thin-set mortar
directions call for. After the whole
floor has been tiled, install the
grout according to instructions. Seal
the grout if directions call for it.
Tile Over Tile Walls
1 Clean the
existing tile thoroughly to remove any
wax or soap build-ups. Sand the
cleaned tiles to rough up the surface
for better adhesion. Rinse the sanded
tiles to remove excess dust from
sanding.
2 Use a latex or epoxy based thin-set
mortar to set tiles into. Apply to the
surface of the existing tiles
according to manufacturer directions,
setting the mortar base at a medium
depth.
3 Install the tile a small section at
a time, according to the thin-set
directions. Apply grout and sealer
according to directions.

Flooring tiles over the existing tiles?  Why not?  It's a ceramic base. Simply make sure that is solid and sound.Loose ? Pull them up and fill the void with patching material. Stop questioning the existing floor.You are the one that have been living with that for years. When someone asks if he can install new tiles over the existing one, that assumes that floor is solid with some small problems or flaws.If this is not the case, than the right question should be - how do i remove the existing tiles from my floor. And this is the right moment to ask for advise, simply because there are no standards or fixed methods how to do it.Handymen out there have so many bright ideas.

Wash the existing flooring with bleach or the most aggressive cleaning solution that your wife knows best.Let the solution stay on the floor for a while. Do it again. Glossy tiles and bed knees.. ??   Rent the rotary floor sander and use the lowest grid number on the sand paper. Don't hope to see scratches on the ceramic tile... but it will create a very fine microscopic matte base for the primer that you have to use next after you have done the cleaning process again.


What can I do about a toilet flange that is 1/4" below the finished floor? I used two wax seals to set my toilet since the flange is 1/4" below the new tile. At first it seemed to be water tight but after a few flushes I noticed water seeping and pulled it out. As can be seen in the photo, the wax ring slid off center. I couldn't use just one ring since it protrudes about 1/4" below the toilet so that would just barely touch the flange. I found the flange extender in another post and will try that. One of these

So to my question. Is this the correct approach? Should the flange be level with the floor prior to installation?

Edit: The correct height of the flange is sitting on top of the finished floor. Of course with a remodel this is almost never going to be the case after tiling. There seem to be various methods to raise the flange. Many say the double wax ring is problematic since it can collapse into the drain over time. This link discusses a number of products to solve the problem. In summary, the set-rite (~18 + shipping) is the most expensive and apparently the only code approved product. The cheapest option is flange extenders ~$3-5. The funny thing is neither the tiler or the plumber that worked on my bathroom mentioned anything about the height problem, which leads me to believe the common solution is the double wax ring.

The flange should sit on top of the finished floor, if it doesn't you'll have to modify the plumbing or find another way to achieve this.

Notice in this image how the toilet waste pipe sits just inside the flange opening, this is the proper way for a toilet to sit on a flange. Even without a wax ring, this union is not likely to leak under normal circumstances (I'm not recommending a wax ring not be used).
Wax as a waste pipe?
Some folks recommend using a thicker wax ring, or even doubling up wax rings.  The problem with this, is that you end up with a waste pipe made from wax. Now this might hold up, but more than likely it's eventually going to fail, and leak.
Modify the plumbing
If you have access to the flange from below, you might be able to modify the plumbing to make the flange sit atop the floor. In most cases, however, this is not an option.
Adapters
There are adapters available, that solve this exact problem.  The Set-Rite Toilet Flange Extender Kit; described in the answers to this question, Comes with different size spacers, which allows it to compensate for various sized offsets.

I've been using wax for years, but recently very unhappy with the products we buy in wax style rings. By the time you get the wax ring out of the packaging you may as well be the wax ring yourself, your hands pants and body are covered with wax. We've been using a new product called Sani Seal. Really sweet and very reliable. See their web site and videos. Sure each ring is $12, but the toilet seal is worth every penny/dollar.


I am wondering can I add a new electrical connection for a gas range to this line? I found the electrical line with only with one receptacle for a garbage disposal. I am wondering can I add a new electrical connection for a gas range to this line?

Given that the gas range only uses electric for clock and ignition you will be fine (given 20A circuit).  Being fine and passing inspection are two different things though.

However the real question is what the oven and disposal require and the size of the circuit.  In the manual for oven and disposal there should be information about circuit requirements.   My disposal for instance says that for a 20A circuit it may be shared with one other outlet.

So read the manual to see if this will work for you.  If you gave us the exact models we could answer better.  If this is permitted work, then just ask your inspector.  Your configuration is very normal in my area but not normal in others.

I say no.

Reason #1: The NEC (I only have 2014 available to me)

  National Electric Code 2014 Edition

  Article 210 Branch Circuits

  III. Required Outlets

  210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets

  (B) Small Appliances

  (2) No Other Outlets.

  The two or more small appliance branch circuits specified in 210.52(B)(1) shall have no
  other outlets.

  Exception No. 1: A receptacle installed solely for the electrical supply to and support of an electric clock in any of the rooms specified in 210.52(B)(1).

  Exception No.2: Receptacles installed to provide power for supplemental equipment and lighting on gas-fired ranges, ovens, or counter-mounted cooking units.

Reason #2: a GFCI will not provide the equipment with an adequate ground path.  Some municipalities may allow this but I would pull a new circuit for this appliance.

(oops, I am of course assuming that the disposal circuit has GFCI protection)


How to ground a 3 prong outlet in plastic box no green ground wire I have a 1954 two-story Pacemaker trailer. It's been rewired by somebody but the receptacles are in plastic boxes. Some have ground wires, some do not.

PG&E is going to give me a refrigerator, but my receptacle is not grounded so they can't give it to me until I ground it. However the outlet box is plastic not metal. There is no green wire anywhere. It's a 3 prong outlet, but has no ground.

How do I get around this so I can get a new refrigerator? Thanks so much.

Years ago I bought an older trailer like this.

All the outlets were 2-wire.  Fortunately, all the runs back to the fuse box were fairly short.  Back in the days when it was built it was assumed that all the neutrals would be connected to a ground bus in the box.

So we made sure they were bonded and attached to a utility company-provided ground rod.

We had to replace all the receptacles with 3-prong outlets.  I stopped short of tying the ground to the neutral at the outlet, which meant that the ground leads ended up floating.

I understand PG&E's position, since they deal with the code as it exists today.

So you have the option of adding a ground lead for the particular outlet they will inspect and call it a day.  Or, perhaps you want to provide grounds all around the unit.

I live in PG&E territory and find they are very safety-oriented.  If their focus is just on that one fridge then adding a ground wire might be worth the effort.

Ground wires do not need to be insulated or run in conduit, but definitely run it all the way to an approved ground bus or rod.

Never rely on the structure itself to be grounded properly.  It is sitting on rubber wheels, remember, and even if it is grounded at the box it would provide a much higher resistance path to ground than a run of copper wire can. Just think of how many structural panels are screwed together between the box and your outlet.  Each one rusts over time.  You get the picture.

Of all appliances I have owned, the one most prone to having a hot case seems to be refrigerators.  So whether you get it from them or buy one on your own, you really should have a grounded outlet for it.

Good luck!

Gfci or ground fault circuit indicator type reciprocal outlets are modernized to allow you to ground to a simple metal box that can be grounded to the frame with an appropriately guaged ground wire. If it pops, your ground is faulty. Hence protection while making fixes kf needed until you ground it.

Since you dont have a ground wire yet. A metal box can quickly ground if its being mounted to a camper or trailer frame structure if its within the wall where the new box mounts to. If its wood! Fish a wire to your box.

This beats running conduit together to ground and/or running all new quality guage and flexible electical spec wires.

Test for ground with a multimeter, or Gfci by putting a load like a microwave on it..


What is correct vapour barrier method for bathroom ceiling in a bungalow in Canada I am in the middle of a complete main floor bathroom gutting and re-finish job in my house in CANADA.. and WINTER IS COMING!!!!

THE BACKGROUND (pics below):

My bathroom is 5'x 13' in a bungalow with 2x6' outside construction walls with Fiberglass batt insulation in the walls, and blown cellulose insulation in the attic. My house has been a very energy efficient and almost perfectly sealed home built in 1985.

I consider myself to be well versed with applying the proper rated vapour barrier to the outside walls using proper vapour-barrier/acoustic sealant (black tar of death) and stapling properly to have a PERFECT air-tight vapour barrier against our crazy -40C/F winters..  I even know about the Tuct-Tape work required to seal joins and overlap edges of separate sheets of poly, etc.

... However.. when I took down the old popcorn drywall ceiling (after i moved over all the cellulose insulation so it wouldn't fall in)..  I noticed the original vapour barrier was ONLY stapled up to the rafters with the 5/8" drywall screwed/nailed through it... the bathroom ceiling vapour barrier had NO BLACK sealant along the edges, so it was not 100% air/vapour sealed to the attic.

THE QUESTION:

Since i'm NOT doing popcorn ceiling again, should I apply black-sealant as well to the ceiling sheets of vapour barrier just like I will do to the outside wall to create a perfect seal??

I have read some stories that because proper attics (like mine is) has natural air-flow its OK for a small amount of warm-air to get into the attic because the natural airflow will vent the moisture!!  Is this TRUE? or would i be creating a condensation disaster in the making?

Pic of outside wall with new vapour barrier ONLY sealed at top for now

Another close-up pic of the opposite corner showing exposed attic

Most of the time in a house in Canada you would have 6-10mil plastic over the drywall in the ceiling.

However the answer isn't that easy and the vapor barrier isn't needed for sure.

It also depends on the type of insulation that you have (faced or not), what other types of barriers are installed in your attic, and really what is on the rest of your house.

So from this picture I would get a ladder and look at what was in the next room on the ceiling.  I would do the same thing.

My personal opinion... is that I don't like a vapor barrier in the attic above a bathroom.  Unless you paint the hell out of your ceiling (which I do for bathrooms including two coats of Killz oil based primer) water will get into the drywall.  It might after 4 coats too...  So I want that water to be able to escape, not be trapped in a vapor barrier.

There should be a vapor barrier to all exterior/cold areas.  Seal and tape all wall/ceiling interfaces.
The plastic should be 6 mil thick.


How to safely dispose of latex paint? So, like most home owners, I have gallons of partially used paint, both from my old place, and old ones from the previous owners here. I want to dispose of these both safely and efficiently (we have quite a few gallons so pricey solutions may not fly).

They're all latex paint. My municipality will take these if they're "dry".  I checked, and I tossed the chunked solid ones, but what about the ones with liquid? How do I dry them?  Can I just open the can? That seems like it will release a lot of VOCs, which I'd rather not. I saw some "drying agent" at Home Depot, is this a good match? Or something simple like kitty litter (we do not have a cat) would be more cost efficient?

The municipalities just don't want it liquid or with the lid on.  Imagine a paint can full of paint when the compactor squishes down on it.  Paint everywhere! You can put whatever you want in the paint to make it more solid. Kitty litter, the store bought stuff drying agent, sand.  I have used some old mortar that I had on hand.    You just want to make sure that it's a solid or semi solid, and you can put it out on the curb for pickup without worry of it spilling with no lid. It would take too long for it to air dry.  Also, a film might form on the top, preventing the bottom from drying.

Check out paintcare.org and see if that helps.


Why is an AFCI tripping when a particular light on a different circuit is turned on? I have 4 GE AFCIs in a GE subpanel in my basement.  Occasionally, when I turn on a bank of dimmable CFL lights via a CFL-rated dimmer switch, I get a trip in a particular AFCI breaker that's on the other phase.  This doesn't happen every time, and it seems to happen more when the dimmer isn't set to full brightness.  Resetting the breaker gets the power back on with no issues, but I'm tired of this.

I'm at a loss as to why a different circuit on a different phase is tripping, and even more confused why it happens only some of the time.  These are not MWBCs, but obviously share the neutral in the panel feeder.  Nothing else causes any other trips anywhere else in the house that aren't obvious, like 4 hair driers on a 15A circuit.

What's going on here?  How can I find the cause of this?

The dimmers are spewing radio-frequency hash into the power line, which confuses the AFCI into a false trip.  It makes sense that it's more reproducible on an intermediate dimmer setting, because that's when the dimmer chops the line voltage aggressively, not when it's fully on or fully off.

Bypass capacitors could help with this: 1 to 10 nF capacitors, X1/Y2 rated ceramic or film, minimum 250VAC working voltage rating. This diagrams shows three caps: between hot and neutral, hot and ground, and between neutral and ground.

The basic idea is that 60 Hz AC will not pass through these capacitors because the frequency is too low, but radio frequencies pass through easily. So the capacitors provide a short circuit shunt path for high frequencies, reducing how much of it spews back upstream from the dimmer.

This looks simple, and it is, but it has to be done properly. Capacitors have long, uninsulated terminals, creating opportunities for short circuits if you're not careful.

Instead of these ad-hoc capacitors, you can install an EMI filter upstream from the light dimmer. EMI filters have a more sophisticated circuit which includes inductors.

One more thing: the Lutron dimmer company sells a filtering component that they call a lamp debuzzing coil.

somewhere the neutral from the arc fault circuit and the lighting circuit are tied together. this happens often when a helper or homeowner have installed the wiring. if there was not an arc fault you would never know because it wouldn't trip a regular breaker. It could however over load the neutral. If you take the bulb out of the fixture and turn it on and it doesn't trip, than you will know that this is the issue


How can I remove construction adhesive from finished wood flooring? I was attaching some transition molding to a floor section yesterday using PL proline construction adhesive.  Apparently I did not do as a good a job of policing the edge as I thought, and I have several visible places where excess adhesive has come out.  It is not yet fully cured.  Am I better off scraping it up now or after it cures?

Cleanup

  Clean tools and uncured adhesive residue immediately with mineral spirits in a well-ventilated area to the outdoors. Remove cured adhesive by carefully scraping with a sharp-edged tool.

From http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_prem/directions/Loctite-PL-Premium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm

I found using oven cleaner and a razor knife on PL glue  took it off with no damage to wood floors.

Only spray a little and scrape it off carefully.


How to widen deck past beam I want to extend my deck 12x16 to 12x18. What is the easiest way to widen the deck by 2 feet from a structural standpoint? How do I go wider than the beam?

I’d remove the last two existing joists (joists furthest from the house) and reinstall them next to the third joists. I’d fasten them together with 1/2” thru bolts at 8” o.c. Staggered 16” o.c. Top and bottom. (Install them 3” from the top and bottom

Then I’d install a 4x12 across the end of the deck (extending it to the existing width at each end) and align the top with the top of the existing beam. I’d fasten it to the existing beams with Simpson GLTV beam hanger (installed upside-down) at each end. (Be sure to order it the correct depth based on your existing joist depth.)

Then I’d install the same size joists as the existing joists and cantilever them 2’ to gain the 24” you’re requiring. I’d install solid blocking between the new cantilevered joists and clip each joist to the top of the new beam with a Simpson A35. I’d use Simpson “U” Series for the connection to the 3-sistered joists.

Then, I’d reinstall the diagonal bracing.

Extend existing deck covering as required.


What is that dripping noise I hear in the wall whenever cold water is used after sitting awhile? I live in a condo...upstairs with another unit behind me with the plumbing in the shared wall between us.  Whenever it's been awhile (say 45 minutes to an hour) since any cold water has been used, if I flush either of 2 toilets or run any cold water faucet, I hear a dripping sound that is loudest in the wall of the kitchen.

It starts about 15 seconds after the water starts (flush or open faucet), drips (tapping sound) very quickly and then slows down and stops.  After that, I won't hear it again until the water has been sitting unused for awhile.  It's only cold water.  The only thing I hear when hot water is used, is the slight knocking from heat expansion after it's running for 30 sec. (it's winter).

There is no apparent water leak upstairs in the kitchen or downstairs in another unit.  This just started about 6 weeks ago.  It's almost as if water is accumulating somewhere in the pipe and using the water pushes this accumulation out of the way.

I don't know if it has any bearing (or just coincidence that it started around the same time), but I believe the vent to the roof has something blocking it, as my toilet water levels (especially 1 toilet) go down at varying rates.  Sometimes I'll come home and find a tiny little something that backed up into the toilets.  A plumber has already checked for a toilet leak and it's all dry.  I'm waiting for the Spring until someone goes up onto the roof to check that out.

I was reading the explanation provided here:

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t30903/

I have the same problem and agree with most likely the fact that is expansion of pipes.


Regular receptacle to GFCI? EDIT
Attached pics. Also there's another plug on other side of sink with exact same set up broken tab between hots (hot red, hot black and 1 neutral and 1 ground). Are kitchens usually provided with more power to the outlets because of appliances like freezers, fridges, microwaves etc? Or is the wiring shady in this house? It was built maybe 1980s / early 1990s. I'm just looking for the best way to install a GFCI. Thanks

Good day. I'm looking to change my kitchen receptacle to GFCI that's beside the sink. The old plug has two hot wires (black & red) with a broken tab in the middle. It also has one neutral wire on the other side and a ground wire. Is it safe and acceptable to cut the hot red wire, cap it off and just use the black hot and neutral with ground? I'm having a hard time understanding why the plug has two hot wires to begin with? I've tried turning the surrounding switches off and on testing both outlers, but they both seem to carry constant power? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I'm in Canada. Ontario to be more specific.

No wire cutting

First, don't cut wires in a situation like this.  You never want to do that unless you are trimming the length of new cable you just installed, and that won't happen soon for you.   Take the nipper back to the store.  I'm aware some Youtube videos promote cutting wires, but they tend to be tool-happy because they make money when you buy tools.  Wire length is precious - it can't be added back on.  Remove wires by loosening the screw on the recep (even if it's back-wire), and/or twisting the wire out of a backstab connection.  Note that once a wire is pulled out of a backstab, its spring is damaged and the backstab cannot be reused.  But never use backstabs anyway, as they are unreliable.

Do you even need a GFCI?

It's rather unlikely that a GFCI receptacle is protecting this outlet.  Trip any GFCI receps you already have and see if this outlet loses power, but I'd expect not.

However, there's a fair chance this recep is being fed from a GFCI Breaker.  If so, that breaker will have a "Test" button.

Either way, if pushing "Test" on a GFCI breaker or recep causes this recep to lose power, your work is done.

Safety is serious business

I am kinda getting the impression you were intending to do this with the power switched on. Honestly that makes me think this is less of a daredevil act and more an unawareness of just how dangerous electrical power is. You may have had stories or experience of people who got zapped and got lucky - that does happen a lot - but people win Russian Roulette 5/6 of the time, so "usually" is not a reliable indicator of safety.  Further, you are almost certainly dealing with 240V here, which is way more than you bargained for.

We gotta look at the breakers.

Expect a situation where 2 breakers control this receptacle's power. The breakers may be tied to trip together, or they may be independent.  But they must be identified.  You already have a good grasp that they are separate, and how to test for that, so put this to use to identify the up-to-2 breakers that control this.

Now, I suspect you have a multi-wire branch circuit, where two carefully placed hot wires share 1 neutral.  "Carefully placed" means there is 240V between them, which is not to trifle with.  However, "carelessly placed" means your neutral wire is a ticking time bomb about to overload. There are further safety requirements to protect people who are less aware than you, and we need to attend to those also, so identifying the breakers is essential.

If there are two separate, independently thrown breakers, then please cut up a Post-It note to make flags, and stick them on the relevant breakers and shoot us a shot of the 6-7 breakers in either direction, and edit it into your question.  We can then advise on correcting the safety issues with the breaker.  If you follow the "GFCI breaker" advice below, that will moot this.

The simple way: Choose a side

The simplest way to hook this GFCI recep up is to simply pick either the red or back wire, and cap it off.  Usually we straighten out the wire, and cap it off with a "wire nut" - with the wire nut then taped down so it stays put, as wire nuts won't stay on single wires.   (you should never need tape with 2+ wires or you're doing it wrong).

Then, hook the neutral and the remaining hot wire to the new GFCI device.

This has a disadvantage: you can no longer run two high-power appliances, one in each socket. Now that will trip the breaker.  It has another disadvantage that if you have 5 of these to do on this circuit, a GFCI breaker is cheaper and better protection.

A better option: A GFCI breaker

Presuming the above testing identifies two breakers (possibly tied), those 2 will have a red and a black "hot" wire going to them.  They can be brought (along with the neutral that is also in their cable) to a 2-pole GFCI circuit breaker.  This will GFCI protect every outlet and device supplied by those breakers.

However this also depends on identifying those breakers, having a panel capable of taking a modern GFCI breaker and having room, and the circuit not having any existing faults that would trip a GFCI, like neutral shared with third circuits etc.

You've already investigated the switch possibility.  But have you considered that there might have been a switch that has since been removed?  If you check the other boxes on the circuit and find one with the red wire tied to black with no switch, this is probably what happened.

If, when you investigate circuits, you find two different circuit breakers involved, then I would check the voltage between the red and black.  If it is 240V, OK.  If it is 0V, you may have a more serious problem.


Three hot wires,1 neutral on a switch I am trying to replace an outlet, but am having trouble figuring out how to wire it properly. The top receptacle on the outlet is supposed to be connected to a switch. When the switch is turned on the 2 blacks test hot, as well as one of the neutrals. When the switch is off, the neutral and 1 black test hot. How do I wire this properly?

Where I am at:
I broke the tab between the poles on hot side of the outlet, just like the old outlet. I also see that the pigtailed black line goes to the lower receptacle, which is always on. I think the black line that is controlled by the switch goes on the upper hot side of the line. But is it okay to have the hot neutral on the other poles?

3W->4W 120V
1B->4W 120V
2B->4W 30V when the switch is in the off position, 120V when it's in the on position
3W->2B 60V

My multimeter may not be that good. It's new, but the voltages jump and I often feel like I am getting different readings.

1B & 3W are always carrying power, 4W is neutral, 2B is responsive to the switch.
There are 3 sets of wires entering the box.

Updated picture

1 is carrying power, 3 goes on to the remaining outlets, and 2 runs to the switch.

Based on your readings, the 1 side black, 2 side white(! retag this wire with black electrical tape!) and 3 side black should be nutted together and pigtailed, and the 1 side white should be pigtailed to the 3 side white apparently -- there looks to be some sort of load plugged into the outlets connected to the 3 wires, which'd explain why the 3 side white reads 120VAC with regard to the 1 side white.  From there, you can then connect the white pigtail to the silver screw, the black pigtail to the lower brass screw, the 2 side black to the upper brass screw, and the bare pigtail to the ground screw.

The funny voltage readings on 2B with the switch off are due to the high impedance of your meter seeing capacitive coupling of a small amount of energy into the switched-off wiring.

the 2 black wires are common line you can call it line 1 the other black is the line 2 you can test it with the lihgt tester only if you test the common line with the light tester it may light but half light only you can see the  difference after you test both.the other goes the same with the 3white  the two whites has 0v it is the common to the 2 3w switches the other white is either line 1 or 2  common to the other black wire only different collor because it goes to the lights and the black goes to switch and outlets  make sure to get the line 1 and line 2 first and mark it
then the 2 common for the 3w


Fence post hole near utility lines, digging advice I am looking for advice on how to go about digging fence post holes 42 inches down (to exceed 40 inch frost line) safely.and properly.

I was told that I must manually dig the hole within 18 inches of any marked utility lines. I have these utility boxes in the back corner of my lot (3 of them) as well as drainage sewer my sump pump drains into.

First, the town came out and marked some lines that run in and out of my property line that go to two street lights in front of my house. They weave in and out of the property line over and out a foot or so making it pretty tedious to put my fence as close as I can to the property line. So I am going to do my best and manually dig a few of the holes.

I am confused on how to dig the hole. Some people say use a post hole digger, and others say use a spade sliding along the top horizontally rather than vertically. If I use a spade and dig a trench 42 inches down this seems like a lot of work, and also how would I back fill the hole properly. I plan on using tamped crushed rock for the back fill. Would I have to make some sort of square form to back fill the earth in and fill the post hole properly? Does square vs circle surrounding make a difference?  If I used a the post hole digger, how do I safely cut into the ground without worrying about cutting into the line? I feel like I can go slowly, but I don't want each hole to turn into a 4hr project a piece!

Any advice would be great as this is my first time putting up a fence. I don't mind the leg work/labor.. I just want to do the job right and maximize the real estate of my backyard without giving it away to my neighbors.

Also, how deep is the sump pump line usually? The only marking I have of it is from the plat of survey showing it running just past the utility boxes near the property line.

Thanks!

To follow up, I ended up just paying a fencing company to do it. So the headache and stress became their problem. Plus if I hit the line and hurt myself or had to pay to have it repaired it would have negated any savings of doing it myself; it didn't seem worth the risk.

The crew got nice and close to the property line, and hand dug near the proposed marked lines. They only went 36 inches down though in those areas, and never came across any lines. Although CAUTION should always be taken for anyone digging as all scenarios are different.

So I guess the answer is, as a DIYer you have to weigh the pro's and con's of the risks. In my case the con's began to outweigh the pro's and paying a company was better for me as I ended up going with a nice white cedar fencing with 5/8 thick and roughly 6 inches wide pickets. I used an oil based stain called, "Ready Seal" which I brushed on for a nice, thick, coat, and it turned out beautiful.

Had I done it myself, I was going to use the pressure treated cheaper material, which wouldn't have looked as nice. Also, I started to brainstorm workarounds trying to avoid the buried wire, and there were too many exceptions.

Anyway that is my follow up.

I would call the utility company back out and have them walk with you over your proposed digging site. I'm sure they will assist with hole placement.

Call811.com


Reducing traffic noise in front and back yard Our rural house is located 200 yards from an interstate highway overpass.  House is parralel to interstate, and overpass is located near a corner of property.  How can we reduce the noise entering the yard?

Specifics:

Most of the noise comes from the beneath overpass
Eucalyptus and oak trees block about 40% visibility of the interstate
No fencing exists between interstate and house
Exterior wall facing the interstate reflects noise back into the yard
Nearest neighbor is 300 yards away
House is very quiet inside, but yard is very loud

My own ideas:

Build up 6' berm of dirt on edge of property, close to interstate, and erect an 8' a 7' wooden fence on top of that
Plant a row of oleander close to interstate
Build a fence that completely blocks visibility of overpass

Another concern:

If a fence is recommended, should it be located closer to interstate, or closer to house?

If you go with trees, go with spruce:  This gives you high density twig/leaf structure.  Evergreen leaf trees are also possibles.

Trees don't reduce sound by a lot, factor of 2 to 4.  That sounds like a lot, but it's only 3 to 6 db.  3 db is just detectable.  An earth berm is the best system.  Make it fairly steep on the side facing the noise so that sound is reflected up.  However, trees generate their own noise -- closer to white noise without the swoosh of traffic.  This will help mask the freeway noise.

Material for a berm can come from creating a pond.  A track hoe here in Canada runs about 1500 bucks a day, and a day's work moves a LOT of earth.

If you are going to build a wall, it needs to be massive.  Stone, concrete, brick, block.  Ideally such a wall has a hollow core, with the area density different on either side of the core. This reduces coupling between the front wall and the back wall.

Use a simple laser level from your house to the interstate. If it aligns with fence it's high enough. You can also plant crape myrtles, trees or other vegetation.


What kind of paint and texture is this? what kind of paint do i need in order to give this wall a fresh look? And also maybe fix that cut.

You can fix the cut by sanding an area about 4 to 6 inches to either side smooth out the area then skim over with a bit of drywall patch 'mud'. You can buy it already mixed in a small tub. Use a 4 inch wide putty knife and press a small amount with some force into the scratch. You can go over it a few times and scrape it away again to get some practice. It is important to know that the better you apply the mud the less sanding you will have to do after.

When the mud is dry, you will need a fine sanding block. The easiest way to make one instead of buying one is to fold a paper towel and lay it on a 8 to 10 inch piece of 2x4 and wrap sandpaper over the paper towel. The paper towel will act as a bit of cushion to push the paper out in the middle so you are not sanding with only the edges. You want to use fine to very fine sanding paper I think 220 grit is good.

Sand softly to blend the repair into the wall, look at it from the side to see if you left a lump of mud over the scratch, you can use a straight edge on the wall to check, but don't be too concerned because often the mud over the drywall seams isn't flat either.

As for the texture, it looks like the paint is more than one layer and was applied with a roller. Your patch will only have one layer and will be smoother than the rest of the wall. if you paint the patch first, let it dry then go over it 2 more times it should blend in well. You could use a thicker paint that will show the roller marks better.

Drew K

Looks like a spray texture, can get it at home depot/ lowes , by homax orange peel or knockdown.


Can I put a 75 watt equivalent led bulb in a fixture that says 60 watts max? Can I put a 75 watt equivalent led bulb(1100 lumes). In a fixture that says 60 watts max. I know the power going to the bulb is way less and the heat is also way less so should I worry about it? I'm trying to get more light out of a two bulb fixture with a 60 watt bulb max by putting 75 watt led's in it. Any thoughts?

Yes you can.  If you could find it, you could put 60 W (actual) LEDs in it, which would be equivalent to like 750 W incandescent.  The maximum stickers are for heat dissipation as well as electrical wiring capacity.

The only real concern is whether the dimability of the LEDs match the light switch or controller.

For a 1100 lumens 75W light, you can use a 12W LED light to replace it directly.  Now 12W can reach 1200 lumens, so more lights and energy saving.


How can I install a window air conditioner in a metal window frame? I'm trying to install a window unit air conditioner, but most of the installation instructions don't seem to work with this window configuration.

A little bit about the setup:  The apartment is the 5th floor of a pre-war walkup building that has gone through various renovations, but none that have made it too modern.  The window is about 30" wide, and is a metal frame.

There are two issues that make it hard to install a window AC unit:

The window sill is made out of metal, so I can't nail or screw anything into it
The base of the window has a thin (about 1/4") piece of metal jutting out of the buttom that's 2" high in the interior and 1.5" high in the exterior.  This means I can't rest any part of the air conditioner on the sill - it ends up just resting on that piece of metal.

Most of the AC units I've looked at have brackets that get nailed into the window sill, and also require that they can sit flat against a ledge to fall into the brackets.  Some examples of the instructions for the units for sale in my area are here:

http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Edison/2020211a1131en.pdf

http://www.lg.com/us/support-product/lg-LW6012ER#

Looking at my neighbors' apartments, it looks like their units have been there for decades, and some are propped up on things like phone books or 2x4s.  I'm hoping to find a safer solution than that, so I don't accidentally drop a 50 pound AC unit 5 stories.  I tinkered with it yesterday (using the LG unit), and the best I could come up with was wedging the AC in at an angle and closing the window, but that didn't seem safe or stable, and left a hole to the outside because the curtains weren't flush with the window.

Is it possible to install a window air conditioner in this setup, and how would I go about doing it?

Since it sounds like it might be difficult for you to get to a lumberyard to build your own solution, you might be better off using a pre-made product.  AC-Safe, makes Universal Air Conditioner Supports that might be useful in your situation.

The system requires you to screw the platform into the window sill (which may or may not be possible in your situation), then simply rests against the outside of the building to support the A\C unit.

I've also seen brackets that mount to the bottom of A\C unit itself, and offer support against the outside of the building (but I was unable to find an example online. I think Thermwell makes them).

Could you use something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Safety-Kingdom-Products-ACSN1-Length/dp/B008K6VBPY

It's been working well for us!


When should pipe dope vs thread tape be used? For threaded plumbing connections, you typically use pipe dope or thread tape (aka teflon tape). Are there situations when one is preferred over another? Does the size of the pipe, type of pipe, part being connected, or other variable make a difference in the selection?

Note, this assumes you aren't using both at the same time.

Whether dope is required at all, is dependent on the type of threads. The type of thread is determined by the tap or die used to create the threads, and should be labeled on the pipe or fitting.
Thread Standards
National Pipe Thread (NPT)
This type of thread when mated, may contain slight gaps between the major and minor diameter of the threads. Because of this, a thread seal agent may be required. However, this type of thread is tapered at a rate of 1/16 (3/4"/foot), which often allows a seal to be made without a sealing agent.
May be listed as MNPT or FNPT, for male and female threads respectively.
National Pipe Thread Fuel (NPTF)
NPTF threads are designed so that when the threads are mated, they actually deform to create a mechanical seal. Since the seal is created by the threads themselves, a thread seal agent is not required (though may be used as a lubricant).
May be listed as MNPTF or FNPTF, for male and female threads respectively.
National Pipe Straight (NPS)
This type of thread is similar to NPT, except that the thread does not have a taper. A thread seal agent is required, but should be selected differently due to the lack of taper.
May be listed as MNPS or FNPS, for male and female threads respectively.
National Pipe Straight Fuel (NPSF)
NPSF like NPTF creates a mechanical seal due to the deformation of the threads, however, unlike NPTF NPSF threads are not tapered.
May be listed as MNPSF or FNPSF, for male and female threads respectively.
Selecting Dope
Which form of dope you choose is often based on who you learned from, personal preference, what's on hand, what type of pipe you're working with, etc. The following are my personal guidelines.
Water
Plastic, Soft Metals, Unreactive Metals
In this situation I'll reach for PTFE tape, since it's not likely I'll require long term corrosion protection.  I'm just looking to lubricate the joint, so I can tighten it to create a leak free joint.
Steel, Reactive Metals
Because I don't want the threads to rust or react negatively, in this situation I'll use paste dope. The paste dope will give me the lube I need to get the pipes properly joined, while at the same time providing corrosion protection.  The paste dope will never harden or flake off, so I know the threads will be protected for a long time.
Large Diameter Pipe
If I'm working with water pipe of any material larger than ~1", I'll always use paste dope.  I don't really have any particular reason for this, it's just the way I was taught.
Fuel Gas
When working with fuel gas pipes of any kind, I always use a paste dope labeled for this use. This is especially true when working with "black" pipe, since I want some corrosion protection in these joints.
Tapered VS. Straight Threads
Tapered Threads
For pipes and fittings with tapered threads, I'll simply follow the guidelines mentioned above.
Straight Threads
When working with fittings with straight threads, paste dope should always be used.  Tape dope is too thick, and can actually prevent a good seal in straight thread joints. Paste dope will spread and be pushed out of the way, and will not prevent the threads from properly engaging.

The correct answer is to use pipe dope the Teflon tape over the pipe dope. Teflon tape is not a sealant of any sort is only a thread lubricant. A true pipe thread sealer is pipe dope. As I just asked a sprinkler fitter why he was pipe doping then Teflon taping all pipe threads and that was the answer he gave me. Then I researched Teflon tape and this is the wiki page for Teflon tape.

Thread seal tape (also known as PTFE tape or plumber's tape) is a polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film for use in sealing pipe threads. The tape is sold cut to specific widths and wound on a spool, making it easy to wind around pipe threads. It is also known by the genericised trade-name Teflon tape; while Teflon is in fact identical to PTFE, Chemours (the trade-mark holders) consider this usage incorrect, especially as they no longer manufacture Teflon in tape form. Thread seal tape lubricates allowing for a deeper seating of the threads, and it helps prevent the threads from seizing when being unscrewed. The tape also works as a deformable filler and thread lubricant, helping to seal the joint without hardening or making it more difficult to tighten, and instead making it easier to tighten.
Typically the tape is wrapped around a pipe's thread three times before it is screwed into place. It is commonly used commercially in applications including pressurized water systems, central heating systems, and air compression equipment. Source


Do I really need a special bulb in the oven? My oven light burnt out recently. After dismantling it I found a 40W 130V "appliance" bulb with a standard Edison connector. The bulb is slightly smaller than a normal incandescent bulb. Looking for replacements at the local stores, all the similarly sized and shaped bulbs list fans and fridge/freezer as acceptable uses. The few ones I can find that actually list ovens as a use case are the wrong shape, size or base.

So do I really need an "oven bulb", or will the fridge/freezer appliance bulb work?

Gotta tell you, I tried the same thing long ago. Learn from my stupidity. LOL  Seems that regular bulbs really don't like the high heat or getting splattered with cooking juices,  shatter at the first contact with liquid.  Think you better spend the couple of extra $$$ and not have to clean up a shattered glass mess in your oven.

What tends to happen (as I understand it) is the voltage can be a bit variable. There will be voltage surges, and a bulb rated for 130 volts can handle those voltage variations better than a standard bulb. This means you will blow standard bulbs faster, sometimes very quickly.


What do you call the fastener that's like a metal zip tie with a screw? I assure you that this is not the beginning of a fastener-related standup routine.

While working out at the gym, I saw a fastener that looks like a metal zip tie, with a screw to tighten it. Two pictures below. This can be useful for me in some of my projects. Any idea what it's called and where I can buy it?

This particular type is a band hose clamp, worm screw, stainless steel. In Britain a Jubilee clip.

316 stainless steel worm gear hose clamp Grainger

It's called "abrazadera" in Argentina.
It's a valid answer, just for the more you know.


Can I replace a 40A breaker with a 50A breaker? I am changing a 40A 2-pole (240V) Federal Pacific Electric Co. circuit breaker but I can't find one.  Can I use a 50A 2-pole? It's for a wall oven.

REPLACE THIS PANEL NOW

Your panel almost certainly is suffering from breaker-to-busbar contact damage, rendering it a ticking incendiary device.

See this answer for the gory details on just what is wrong with FPE's "breakers".

If you post a picture of your panel (dead front off), I can determine if you can have your electrician install one of the Eaton retrofit kits (the kit itself is several hundred $, but it saves significantly on labor as the existing enclosure can stay in place) or if you need a total panel replacement (cheaper parts, but more labor).

Safety over current devices are uually easy to replace and most makes are interchangeable.mcbs are often clip on a rail and electrically connect,oddball makes are on the market,seek advice if in doubt or get an electrician to do this.Be safe be sure.Steve uk engineer.Do not fit a higher rated mcb,like for like only. Beside amp rating,the type is important.See other answers as well.pn,make sure it is an appoved mcb.


Old Skilsaw model 77 blade won't tighten I'm on a farm, and I'm a little person learning to do big work.

I was having so much trouble controlling a direct drive circular saw due to the gyroscopic twist when starting it up, my "adopted brother" found me this wonderful worm drive Skilsaw.  It's an old solid metal case, the thing weighs like three times the Ryobi direct drive, but when it's running, it doesn't feel like anything at all!  I love the darned thing.

We replaced the blade for something newer, as I've got some cabinetry to tackle - but neither he nor I can get the blade to tighten down.  If there's no real drag it cuts fine, but the least thing makes the blade just stop.  No jerk or bounce-back, the shaft spins but the blade is obviously not tight to the shaft.

This scares me, but I really want to be able to fix ths so I can get back to cutting.  Any help would be appreciated!

Edit: Thank you all for your suggestions!

I got the bolt off (yes, reverse thread) and yes, the diamond knockout is knocked out.  So it's a problem with the blade thickness.  I got a hefty washer on there, threaded the bolt back on, tightened the you-know-what out of it, and the difference is obvious without even running it - before, I could hold the blade with my fingers and spin the shaft with a wrench.  Now I tried holding the blade with a pair of slip-joint pliers and couldn't get the bolt to budge.

I'm leaving a photo here of how it looks, and will check back in a bit - let me know if what I did is in some way dangerous or unsafe.

Note to the respondent who noted the dangers of worm drive - thank you!  I already knew, and have a healthy terror of kickback.  Scariest thing I ever did with a circular saw was stand on the top rung of a ladder and cut notches into roofing plywood - and that was a direct drive, and I definitely self-medicated with a bit of Tito's that night, well after I was finished.  :)

You people rock, and if I haven't forgotten I'll post shots of the finished bed frame.  Thank you all!

Some things to consider.

Some of the newest blade, especially the thin cut carbide tipped ones, are quite a bit thinner than the blades from 20 or 30 years ago. It is possible that the truss washers on either side of the blade just do not tighten down enough on a super thin blade.
You may have made a mistake assembling the blade mount. The truss washer on at least the outside end of the shaft usually has a flatted hole on one side so that it fits down on the flat on the saw shaft. It is possible you had this rotated around the wrong way and the bolt went tight but the washer did not seat tight down to the blade.
Maybe there is debris or rusted threads down in the bottom of the threaded hole on the end of the saw shaft. This could prevent the bolt from entering the shaft the required amount to tighten up the blade.

Make a washer out of cardboard. Older saws aren't designed to tighten down on the newer thin blades. That Diablo blade you've got is thin. I had the same problem.


Can you break an oven with wrong wiring? What would most likely happen if you wired in an oven the wrong way, ie double positive, or double negative, or positive to negative and negative to positive?

In the US, regular lights and outlets use 120VAC, and large appliances run on 240VAC.  Some large appliances need both 120VAC and 240VAC, and they will use 3 or 2 wires respectively.

For a 240VAC only appliance, you will have two colored wires which are typically red and black.  There will be two screws on the appliance, and it doesn't matter which wire goes to which screw (there will also be a bare ground wire and associated screw, but I'm leaving that out of the discussion).  The two wires are both "hot" (not positive or negative) and have a voltage of 240VAC between them and you really can't hook it up wrong.

Other appliances need 120VAC and 240VAC.  For instance, newer ovens might use 120v for their electronic displays, lights, and controls, but the main heating elements will run on 240v.  These appliances need three wires which are typically colored red, white and black.  The white is referred to as "common" and it must be connected to the correct screw.  The voltage between red and white and black and white is 120v, but the voltage between red and black is 240v.  Red and black are interchangeable.

If you happened to connect the red to the "red" terminal (terminal meant for the red wire - it probably won't be red...) and black to the "common" terminal, you would be supplying 240v to a part of the appliance that needed 120v, and something would break.  You would hope that a fuse or something easily replaceable would break, but there's no guarantees.  The oven could be cooked.

Hey buddy just so you know people from America have a 120/240 system.
Meaning we have two legs of power coming in each current 120 volts on them when they're combined together they make 240 that is why when Americans travel to European countries including Germany we have to take transformers or smaller less time used convert.  we can charge are laptops  because the transformer built into the machine is able to take up that voltage then you just need an adapter.
Here in the States we have what is called a neutral you guys probably do not have this and that's you have two hots going to everything you need instead of just one hot and then neutral like we have,   because of this reason you should only have three wires for your stove go and only three places wires to attach on your stove two of them will be your hot and one of them will be your ground the ground one should be pretty easy to identify because it should not have any physical protection from the metal on the oven in the first place.   If there's any insulation that prevents the connection between the two screws and the oven those will be your hot on your oven and has to be grounded so that if there's ever a short you don't fry well cooking your french fries.
If you have any doubts about this hookup please review your owners manual or contact a license electrician in your area.      * it's worth it*


Where can I find a replacement bracket for my glass counter top? Sorry if this is obvious but I'm having a hard time contacting the manufacturer so I wanted to ask here.

I'm trying to replace my mounting brackets on a bathroom sink I have and was wondering if there are any generic or similar parts that would work.

I actually found out that I can actually just use glass shelf brackets.


What is the ideal lumen output and temperature range for my computer room? I have replaced an older 100W incandescent light bulb with an led 3000K 1400 lumen light bulb but it seems very bright so I wonder if the lumen output is too high. How can I calculate the correct lumen output needed for my space?

What is an ideal lightbulb temperature for computer room/use? The 3000K led is a lot whiter than the old incandescent, perhaps easier on the eyes but too bright in my case.

Room Diagram:

"Calculate the correct lumen output" &  "ideal lightbulb temperature"

implies a lot more definition to "correct" and "ideal" than seems likely to apply to a matter of individual tastes. For some folks the light in the computer room comes only from the screens, and it goes up from there. There may well be architectural standards, but whether you like the result is going to vary anyway. So:

**

Try different bulbs until you like one.

**

Or: Replace switch with (LED-rated) dimmer and adjust to suit. This can actually be tricky as many LED dimmers have minimum loads for stable operation that are more than a single bulb. Also, the LED needs to be "dimmable."

We specify "indirect light" (up-light) and 3500k-4100k with dimmers. (By the way, the "white" paint color on the ceiling is important too. )


why is my led bulb running dim? I have five LED bulbs outdoors near the Twin Cities in Minnesota, all of the same brand (Feit 800 lumens, if that matters), which have been installed somewhere around mid-summer 2013. We don't have dimmers, just a bog-standard on/off switch.

Four of them work perfectly fine, but the fifth doesn't. It glows dim, while all the others burn brightly. There haven't been any circuit, wiring, switching or other changes; the only thing I can think of is that we're springing out of a reasonably cold winter.

This bulb used to work well, too, similar to the others. And it's now consistently dim.

This is in a slightly-difficult-to-get-to spot, hence the question instead of pulling out ladders and playing with different bulbs / configurations.

Is there anything that could contribute to this issue?

Well, turns out that repeated slamming of the front entry door isn't good for many things, electrical connections included.

I finally had a chance to open the outdoor sconce yesterday and saw that one of the neutral white wires had sort of slipped out of its wirenut, and wasn't holding on very well to the others. I don't know why this resulted in lower voltage going through instead of arcing, but that's probably a good thing.

Fixing this was a simple matter of winding the tip of this loose wire a bit deeper and screwing in the wirenut a little stronger than it already was. Did this to the hot black and bare ground wires too, and the light's as good as new now.

Lesson learnt? Electrical gremlins don't need to be caused by faulty installation, sometimes things that you don't expect to break (like immobile wirenuts) also loosen up due to mechanical vibrations.

Next step? Trying to convince the family that slamming doors isn't a good idea, but that's a battle I'm not going to win in any case.

I bought about a dozen or more NOMA LED string lights for Xmass decorations around a tree outside. I got then for $5 a string...about 50 LED per string. They worked well last year, but now half of them either are too dim, only half a string is functional, or it doesn't work at all. I Googled this tool for fixing the strings called, you guessed it...LED FIXER at Home Depot for $35. I bought it, and got all malfunctioning string sets working perfect. HINT Cut the two prong plug with fuses off and replace with non-fuse two-prong plug...that might save you a lot from a ton of crap right off the hop.This tool has a spot to check your LED bulbs, a spot for fuses, and the tool for checking the wire going into the LED bulb...great tool.