Is it acceptable to use a cut edge against a tapered edge at a drywall joint? I have one 26" wide by 39" long panel left to put up and I stupidly miscalculated my drywall amounts, and I don't have any one piece big enough to cover the whole area. This piece would hit a tapered seam at the top, a wall of the left, and a door jamb on the right, and the floor sill at bottom. Rather than buying a whole new sheet of drywall, Im thinking about just putting in the longest 26" wide piece I have with a tapered edge on top (about 26 x 25) and then putting in one more scrap piece to take it to the bottom. The scrap piece would be butt jointed horizontally to the piece above.

Question, how hard would it be to hide the butt seam? Could I file down the vertical studs a bit to try and create a recess between my 26x25 and my scrap piece? I wouldn't have a ton of room to feather out the mud to the bottom, not sure if the baseboard will help hide the hump.

Almost any larger drywall job will have a few odd cases like that. Good tapers run their butt joints 18" wide or more as a rule. Hiding a tape overlay in that width is not difficult. Use a wide knife or trowel, but keep things thin. Remember that sanding is really only intended to knock down tiny imperfections, not shape the wall.


How do I remove a double-ended T3 R7S bulb that isn't spring loaded? A fixture using this type of bulb burned out of me. All of my searching seems to indicate that these are often spring-loaded but I applied significant force to both sides with no give. I feel so ashamed being defeated by a lightbulb.... how to I replace this?

I am able to jiggle the bulb around in the socket so I know it's not corroded into place but I feel that I'm applying far to much force than should be required.

I suppose it's possible that it is spring loaded but that I don't know where to apply the pressure.

It's an extraordinarily stupid design. Neither side is spring loaded. It relies on the flexibility of the metal bracket to separate enough to get the bulb in. Requires very substantial force, to the point that you are convinced you'll break the bulb.

Actually, if you push one end to the right, and the other end down, you can then pull the right end out.


How to stack a portable countertop / tabletop Dishwasher on top of a front load washing machine? I have limited space because all the cabinets were already setup long back. A Bosch front load washing machine (60cm (d) x 60cm (b) x 85 cm (h) is placed in this space. There is a gap of 60.5 cm from the top of the washing machine free as of now.

Can a portable countertop / tabletop dishwasher (http://levant.beko.com/dishwashers/dtc36810w/) of dimensions 59.5cm (h) x 55cm (b) x 50cm(d) be stacked on top of the front load washing machine?
What's the best way to go about it and any precautionary measures needed?

Updated/Edited:

The dishwasher is not a Full size one but a table top dishwasher designed to be placed on countertops. Example below.

As there is limited clearance and only 1 cm gap left considering both the appliances height, am planning to place a plywood top of 10 mm thickness and size 60 mm by 60 mm on top of the washing machine with an anti slip map.
Is this a feasible option or some other material will work?
Will the washing machine be able to take the weight and handle any vibrations the countertop dishwasher may have?

Image of what i am planning:

This can definitely be done, although the way I did it was to create a countertop over the washing machine, boxing in the washing machine, (the same as any countertop you would normally sit the tabletop dishwasher) thereby making them separate entities.
All that needed to be done was to drill a fair sized hole for the pipes and cables to fit through the countertop behind the dishwasher, not visible, and the dishwasher can come forward to be flush with the countertop. It is never going to topple over, why would it, it's only the door that will venture out  and that won't topple it. (I have a Bosch countertop dishwasher, and it has never ever unbalanced) I'm even considering boxing in the dishwasher so that the microwave can sit on top. (I don't have any cabinets above, to get in the way.) and I can reach it quite easily, like an eye level oven.
The only thing that may be a safety issue is if all appliances are sharing one outlet. I would make sure they each had their own  so as not to overload it. Overall, it has worked for me and it's all next to the kitchen sink so the plumbing is all in one place, nice and tidy.

This seems like a terrible idea.

So to do this you will need to...

build a very solid shelf to sit the dishwasher on.
you probably need to buy a regular (not portable dishwasher).   The portable ones are a lot heavier so they don't tip.   You don't need that weight up there.
you will actually need to build a box for the dishwasher.   You need a top to keep it from tipping.   You need brackets to keep it from inching forward.
The plumbing will be a little tricky with dishwasher on top as you want the disposal line going up a bit before going down.

Even if done properly and building a super enclosed shelf, you have a huge injury risk waiting to happen.   Shorter people and kids trying to get stuff out of the top - note that they door has to be open to roll out the racks... They fall or whatever onto the door, does the shelf/box support it?   How is this super heavy dishwasher (dishes + water + its weight) effect the shelf over time.   How does the washing machine which induces movement effect this shelf/box?   Can this be done?  Sure anything can be done.   But this sounds like the beginning of a Darwin award story.

If you have limited cabinet space but have the ability to stack these then why not just take a cabinet out that is next to the washer and put it on top of the washer.   This would probably be much more functional and more convenient.


Why can I not turn off my ceiling lights? Three ceiling lights which worked for years, cannot be turned off.  There are three switches, each of which controls all three lights (they are all on or all off).  Is there a simple fix or must I call an electrician? I didn't change anything.

One of the switches has failed and will likely need to be replaced. There will be two "three way" switches and one "four-way" switch. It's the four-way that has broken. The switch may feel different when you toggle it.

Unscrew the bulbs until you get it fixed.

The switch leg for the light is hooked up to the constant hot.


Can you have a 90 degree elbow going upward on drain line? I'm running a drain for a utility sink off of a stack in my basement. I wanted to know if it's ok to have a 90 degree elbow going up then out to the utility sink since when the water drains it's going to have to go back up the 90 degree elbow to the main drain. I've attached a picture.

The drain then runs to the left to a secondary drain line that runs vertical in my basement. Just not sure if you are allowed to drop a 90 degree angle like this since the water would have to go up when I use the utility sink.

No, you should not do that.  As mentioned in a comment, the drain is going to fill up with gunk and clog. Depending on use, you'll find that you have to snake this line quite often.
While traps do hold water, they are limited in the depth of water they can hold.  Traps are also designed in such a way, that normal use stirs up any "sediment" and helps flush it away (self cleaning).

Uniform Plumbing Code
Chapter 10 Traps and Intercepters
1003.0 Traps - Described
1003.1 General Requirements. Each trap, except for
traps within an interceptor or similar device shall be self-cleaning. Traps for bathtubs, showers, lavatories, sinks,
laundry tubs, floor drains, urinals, drinking fountains, dental units, and similar fixtures shall be of standard design,
weight and shall be of ABS, cast brass, cast iron, lead, PP,
PVC, or other approved material.

I'm not sure how far away the vent is for this fixture. If that's 2" pipe, it has to be within 8' of the trap weir.  If it's 1½" pipe, the vent has to be within 6' of the trap weir.

yes, it would be like a p trap that is always full of water. Risky because of the joints there.


Should I nail, and glue my hardwood flooring? Well since I'm waiting for an answer on my first hardwood floor question I might as well throw my second question out there too.

I’m face nailing my new hardwood flooring (Tasmanian Blackwood 19mm x 130mm) then puttying the knot holes and nail holes. This will be done through the whole house. The subfloor is Particle Board (Brand name: Yellow Tongue) that has been glued and screwed down.

Additional information: This is solid T&G timber flooring that was purchased direct from the saw miller. In the event nailing and gluing is recommended, there would be no moisture barrier.

My question:

Is there a benefit to ‘nail and gluing’ my hardwood flooring to the Particle Board subfloor or will this just interfere with the natural expansion and contraction of the hardwood?

You said the subfloor is particle board, so if there's some kind of isolation under that you don't need more barriers.

Attaching your floor to the subfloor depends on what kind of floor that is. If it's floating floor, it needs to float, so no gluing at all, and you need some kind of padding to level out the floor. Generally floating floors are tongue/groove or click install.

And if it's kind of parquet you have to glue it to the subfloor, because the grip of nails to particle board is very weak.

Think of it this way - what other methods could you use? You have to somehow get the floor firmly attached to the subfloor, otherwise the seams between the planks will be loose and water gets in there and the floor is ruined in no time. So at least you have to glue it down and once you've done that nailing it will not make any real difference.

I've seen a lot of hardwood floors that have been glued down, usually to concrete, and they serve just fine for dozens of years under reasonable humidity. However I once saw hardwood exposed to water for a long time - it expanded so much that planks were torn off the concrete base and I'm sure that no nails would prevent that. That part needed serious repair.

Nailing hardwood floors is almost always useless, because if the glue is intact it will hold the planks but if it fails then nails won't help - stepping onto different parts of a plank that it not perfectly glued will make the plank bend slightly and pull the nails out and it gets loose over a course of month. If you want some metal fastening - at least use wood screws, they won't be pulled out.


How can I clean oil stains from vitreous floor tiles? My vitreous floor tile gets dirty very quickly.  It retains the stains of oil, or any other  wet  material. I have even seen water leaving temporary wet stains while cleaning them.

Is this normal for these variety of tiles or is ours of low quality? Please mention the better way to get rid of oil stains in these tiles.

It sounds like you have unsealed or unglazed tile. Although this is not a bad thing, they do tend to stain easily and will absorb water temporarily, change color then return to original color when dry.

I don't know what you have already tried to remove the oil stains. Once oil stains sink into unsealed tile, they can be very difficult to remove.  Test a small area in an inconspicuous   area with some TSP, bleach and water mixture. You may also try some grout cleaner from the building supply store. If the stains are not deep, maybe some Dawn detergent may be enough.

The longer term solution to your problem is to seal the tile. There are several products at the flooring department of building supply stores. These products are similar to grout sealers but better adapted to whole floor sealing. Expect to pay $50 to $75 to seal the average 12X12 foot floor. Follow the directions carefully and use two coats if recommended by the manufacturer. After sealing, ongoing floor cleaning instructions are included on the bottle of sealer. Avoid harsh or abrasive cleaners, often just plain water will do a good job on a sealed tile floor. Depending on the amount of traffic, you may have to reseal every year or two.

Kaboom bathrooom cleaner is excellent for this......i got old glue off and oil stains with  a regular kitchen rough scrub brush pad and Kaboom.


How do I keep my house cool especially my terrace during summer? I live in Bangalore in an apartment on the top floor and during summer, my terrace (built of concrete) absorbs a lot of heat. When I come home and switch on the fan, it ends warming my room and it is not cool throughout the night. The sun doesn't shine through windows or the walls much since there are trees in my apartment which help, but it is the terrace that takes a lot of heat especially during afternoons. Can anyone give any simple DIY approach on how I can keep my terrace cool. (I am not looking to install any kind of air cooler.)

Some options I thought of were:

Hang a cloth on some poles to cover the terrace.
Keep plants on the terrace (not something my
    association will approve)

Does any one have any ideas?

Im not sure what building codes or home owner's restrictions there may be but this is a common solution:

There are many types of variations that are tied to houses, stand alone, etc. It is basically a set of posts (or house attachments) with a top plate and vertical boards (pressure treated of course) affixed. This example then has cross bracing so there will be less warping over time. The key is to align the tall boards East to West so that as the sun rises its angled rays do not penetrate to the patio. The height and spacing of the vertical shade boards is based on sun angle mid summer since that is when the sun is highest. Do it right and there should only be sun on the patio when the sun is lower in the sky (winter, spring, fall) as well as possibly early morning and late evening.

Eureka I think I have found the idea.

I have a top floor which remains very hot.

What I did is that I took some old wooden plies of 4x4. There was a old wooden door available as well.

You can use whatever wooden item you have.

Just put 4 bricks or something.

On the 4 bricks you put all the plies or wooden door, etc. so that there is a gap of 4 or 5 inches approx between the floor and the wooden item.

Wood is a very good insulator.

I have done this thing right now only, and result will come in the evening if I'm not able to write again I think you can try it at your home.


If my home connected single phase 50 kw loads what will be the loads if I want to change the connection to a three phase? My home is connected with single phase (200/220v) line. Total connected load is 48 kw, now I want to connect my home with a 3 phase (400/440) line.

What will be the load in the latter case? Please provide a mathematical calculation to convert single phase load to a three phase.

Where is ThreePhaseEel when you need him?

I have to wonder what country this is that someone wants to change a 48KW load in their home from  200/220v single phase to 400/440 three phase.  Something's fishy...

I presume you mean to ask:  “What is the current for each leg of a 400/440v delta three phase supplying a 48KW load versus single phase at 200/220v?”

First the single phase:

48KW at 200/220v single phase (all values RMS):

P = V x I (electrical formula for power);

I = P / V (substitution);

I = 48000w / 220v (substitution);

I = 218 amps.

In the case of 200v:  I = 240 amps.
For a single phase 48KW load @ 200/220v,  the current is 240 / 218 amps , respectively.

For three phase:

In the simplified balanced load case, the current at each leg of the three phase supply is equal to the single phase calculation at that supply voltage divided by sqrt(3).  For a three phase 48KW load @400/440v, the current is 69.3 / 63.0 amps, respectively

Since Tester101 wants someone to prove it:

The problem can be simplified if the three phase load is analyzed as a wye instead of a delta.  In the case of a wye, the power calculation becomes simple addition and does not require vector math to solve.  For a wye, the total power is the sum of the three loads:

Ptot = P1y + P2y + P3y

I will call power at each leg p’, such that with a balanced load:

p’ = P1y = P2y = P3y= (1/3)Ptot

Using vector geometry, one can mathematically prove that the voltage across the wye connections to neutral (Vy) is equal to the voltage across the delta connections (Vd) divided by 1.732.  (Vy = Vd / 1.732) I will spare you that proof.

Using the equation for electrical power (P = V x I) and substitution:

p’ = (1/3)Ptot = Vy x I = (Vd / 1.732) x I,  where “I” is the current at each supply lead.

Invoking algebra:

I = (1/3) [Ptot]  /  [(Vd/1.732)];     (this simplifies to I = (Ptot / Vd) / 1.732 )

Plugging in the numbers:

I = (1/3)(48000W) / (400v/1.732) = 69.3 amps

I = (1/3)(48000W) / (440v/1.732) = 63.0 amps

Now We solve the problem, it is given that load =48Kw 1-phase, then when it shall be connected to a 3-phase connection, then each phase shall bear a load equal to 48/3=16 KW, 1-phase load, and the condition  of load is balanced.

Now in this condition what shall be the phase current?
it will be, 16000=200 x I X 0.8,---(i) [Considering V=200, Cos Theta ie pf = 0.8] as each of the phase of this new 3-phase system connected with a 16kw 1-phase load.

Solving eq. (i) we find, I= H (say) Amps.
Now, this H  Amps shall be the line current of the new 3-phase system.
So what will be the load P (3-phase)? It is which we have to calculate.

We know,
P (3phase)= 1.732 x V X I X PF, {considering V=400, I=H}
or, P= 1.732x400xHx0.8 (ANSWER)


Water leaking up the stem on the main water shutoff valve There is a leak (and getting worst) where water is coming up the stem on the main water valve (angled globe valve I think). I know I may be able to fix this by tightening the gland nut, but I cant find the gland nut! I have attached the photo, can anyone help?

The alternative is to get the water authorities to come out and close the value which is somewhere on the street. They'll charge $120 for doing this and wont let me do it. I then would need to have a plumber present at the same time, to replace the value and then have the water people turn the water back on. The total cost will probably be several hundred dollars. Ouch. The leak is not increasing my water bill since it is before the meter, so I have kind of not been paying attention.

Your help is very much appropriated.

Tightening the packing nut (the large nut that is visible with six facets) would be the only option I know of. This valve is the water company's responsibility where I live. I assume you've inquired.
Hope this helps.

If the water is leaking on the home owners side of the water meter in most municipalities it is the owners responsibility to make or pay for any repairs. The repair is straight forward and simple.  If you won't be violating any ordinances you could turn the water off yourself.  To shut the water flow off at the street you will need to look for the valve. Usually located just in front of the house near the curb or before the street. To help narrow your search water companies will mark the location/direction of the valve on the street surface. Look for a painted blue insignia. It will look something like a circle with an arrow pointing towards the valve location. It is probably in a sunken concrete pit.   To repair the leaking Gate valve with or without the water being turned off start by closing it half way. Using adjustable pliers (channel locks), pipe wrench or adjustable (cresent) wrench turn the bonnet/ packing nut clockwise slowly, but firmly. Apply only enough mild force to turn the nut. Open the valve and check for leaks. If it still leaks shut the valve off completely and repeat the tightening sequence. If the leak doesn't stop the bonnet washer inside is worn and needs replacing.  Rather than replace the valve with a similar type Gate valve which are more prone to breaking and parts wearing out consider installing a "ball" type valve which are designed with fewer parts that wear out and are easier to use.


Can IC-rated recessed lights come in contact with sheet plastic? I'm installing low-profile (slim) recessed LED IC-rated lights in my living room that has a drop ceiling. Above the area that one of the lights will go is a plastic sheet seemingly filled with old lathe and plaster (no idea why). I can't tell how much garbage is actually up there so would rather just leave the plastic alone.

Is there any problem with pushing the recessed lights into the hole right up against the plastic sheet? I know IC-rated means that it can come in contact with insulation - what I'm not sure about is how IC-rated fixtures differ across other materials.

Go ahead, although I'd stick a thermocouple up there and double check the temperature to be sure
NEC 410.116(A)(2) permits IC-rated recessed fixtures to be in contact with combustible materials in the manner you describe:

(2) Type IC. A recessed luminaire that is identified for
contact with insulation, Type IC, shall be permitted to be in
contact with combustible materials at recessed parts, points of
support, and portions passing through or finishing off the
opening in the building structure

As a precaution, though, I would use a cheap type-K thermocouple probe and meter to measure the temperature at the light-to-plastic interface after the light's been left on for a few hours -- anything under 90°C should be fine, as per NEC 410.115(A):

410.115 Temperature.
(A) Combustible Material. Luminaires shall be installed so
that adjacent combustible material will not be subjected to
temperatures in excess of 90°C (194°F).

Looks like it is specified in code. This should not be done according to the following. Looks like 1/2" is minimum with anything combustible other than insulation.

NEC 410-66 - Recessed lighting fixtures installed in insulated ceilings or installed within one half inch of combustible material shall be labeled as Type IC (insulation contact). In addition, your state Energy Code requires recessed lighting fixtures in insulated ceilings to be sealed to prevent leakage of airborne moisture.


Are two wires coming out of the same circuit breaker safe? There are two wires coming out of two of my circuit breakers in my electrical panel.  I am thinking the previous owner of the house stuck these two wires in there because the panel was full and they didn't want to replace the panel. I am not sure though, all the searches I have done on line haven't returned any info on why they would do something like this.

It depends -- some circuit breakers are designed to accommodate two wires. If they are, though, it'll be clear that they are. For example, these Square D Homeline breakers are marked with symbols or text indicating that two conductors are allowed but only if they're both copper. The plate under the screw and the molding of the case are also visibly formed to accept two conductors.

Your breakers could be marked on the side of the case; you'd likely have to remove one to find out. There's a label just barely visible which might tell the story.. I'm not well-acquainted with your BR breakers but to my eye they don't look like they're designed for two conductors.
In any case, it's always safe and easy to use a pigtail: a single piece of wire as a jumper between the breaker terminal and the other two wires. Join the pigtail to the others with a twist-on or push-on wire connector.

For most circuit breakers, there is a maximum wire gauge / diameter that can be tightened. You can check from your circuit breaker (near your wire hole) or spec on the internet.
Let's says you have a maximum wire diameter 6mm, if each wire have 3mm diameter it's acceptable, but it much safer if you twist both ends to secure that joint before put in there and tightening it.


Should a gas water heater be shut down if the water main has to be turned off? I have a brand new AO Smith 50gal gas water heater. Today there was a burst pipe from the cold spell we're having currently, so I had to turn off the water main to the house until the plumbers get here tomorrow.

With that, nobody had used any hot water all day so it should be full, but do I need to turn the water heater off until the water can be turned back on tomorrow to avoid any damage etc?

Water heaters have a dip tube on the cold water side that puts the cold water into the bottom of the tank. If water pressure is lost on the cold water side, the tank can siphon down through the cold water inlet till it reaches the bottom of the dip tube. Then since there's no water in the tank to absorb heat, the dip tube can melt and the tank can be damaged.

It would be best to at least set the heater so it is on pilot only.

Note: Manufacturer AO Smith states in their manuals that their gas water heaters must not be operated without being certain it's filled or with the cold water inlet shutoff valve closed.

When I leave the house for any length of time, days, weeks etc. I always turn off the water at the incoming street source. I disconnect the electricity to the water heater since have electronic ignition. Now if a pipe in house fails, only the water in the pipes can drain out to house. Top floor, very little water will be in house, lowest level, more obviously. But at least that's it. Re the water heater, with whole system off, if it develops leak, only water in tank will drain out and being off, no chance of internal system failing and having water heater calling for more heat for water that isn't there and possibly creating overheating or damage. When get home, turn on the water and turn on the water heater, have a glass of wine and enjoy the memories while shower water heating.


How can I remove oil/ATF from a newly paved driveway? I had my asphalt driveway repaved this spring, and of course my car has started leaking - ATF in this case.

How can I remove it?

First fix the leak! Then attack the stain with a bristle brush and some dish detergent; if that doesn't do it, there are commercial cleaners for asphalt or concrete, like this that are a bit stronger. Don't expect 100% results, but the stain will fade over time:

A cheaper and quick way is to spray or pour a standard house cleaner such as Windex or laundry detergent on the spot you need cleaned and leave it for a good 15 to 20 minutes then rinse with warm water and it should go away especially if it is fresh leak. Good luck!


Does it matter whether a bedroom door swings in or out of the room? I am looking to install french doors to help brighten the room just outside of a basement bedroom I am currently planning (egress window added and all per building codes). All the other existing bedrooms in my house have doors which swing into the room. However, having the french doors swing out of the bedroom into a larger main room (not a hallway) makes the most sense to me for this bedroom since swinging into the bedroom would make me have to place the light switch further away from the door to keep the doors from obstructing access to the switch.

Also, when I think about it, it seems like every bedroom of every house I can remember has in-swing doors. But then, almost all of the bedrooms I remember also come off of a hallway of some sort where an door that swings into the hall would be an obstruction.

I primarily want to know if I would be breaking convention or some aspect of code/saftey which I have otherwise missed to install a door which swings out of a bedroom. One benefit I can think of for having in-swing doors is that an obstruction in front of the door wouldn't prevent someone inside the bedroom from opening the door.

There is no code that tells you that your bedroom doors need to swing in for a bedroom.   But it is usually not a good idea for them to swing out.

as you mentioned the doors present an obstruction in spaces.  In hallways it might even be comical to wind your way around 7 open doors from both sides.
when you are talking about privacy the doors have swung in because of the hinge side would be protected.  For instance if you locked your door and the hinges were out someone could just knock the pegs out of the hinges and release your door.
and safety wise there is always a chance that someone will open a door on someone else.  But not many people stand next to the door in their own room.  But people could be passing by where ever and you could hit them.  This should be thought about in your case.
aesthetically speaking you will be showing the hinges on the outside.  I know it isn't a huge thing but a small design factor.

I have to say I have finished maybe close to 50 basements now (got to be close) and one of my favorite designs for a smaller basement is simply storage room with the bathroom towards the front and the other side is huge living room with an "extra" room with french doors in the back.  Extra room is big enough to house a pool table but could easily be converted into a bedroom (often we have a walk-in closet going from extra room to storage room).  We usually have the French doors swing out to the living room.  If the living room is small though we swing them in.  This is highly dependent on what you feel is going to be next to the French doors on each side of the room. (On really small rooms we use double pocket doors)

Another note:  Come to think of it the doors themselves play a big part of inside or outside.  If I have some nice doors - especially the wooden vintage french doors we clean up - well these open out.  Because we want to showcase the door.  If it is some big box generic french door set, we hide them in the room.

If you have loose pin hinges (most door hinges are, so they can be taken off quickly to allow wide items to pass), it is very simple for a burglar to remove the pins and remove the doors, since the hinge pins will be on the outside.


Upgrade Service or Sub Panel or? I just moved into a small home (~1150sf) that currently has 150 amp service. The disconnect is outside by the meter (pictured). The meter is attached to the side of the carport, which I'm about to convert into a garage.

The sub panel is inside in the middle of the house (pictured). Though I have some room if I replace some of the breakers with doubles, she's pretty full.

I need significant power in the new garage. Here are the circuits I'd like to install in the new garage. Some of the items can be run on the same receptacle and few, if any, of the 220v tools will be run simultaneously:

120v for A/C
30a, 220v for table saw
30a, 220v for plasma cutter
60a, 220v for welder
(8) 120v receptacles for various woodworking tools

In every other house I've lived in, I've had room in my panel and have wired the circuits I've needed myself.

I guess I can run a sub panel to the garage from the sub in the house and then wire up the circuits, but since the disconnect is about 5' from the garage, I was wondering if there are other options.

Any advice? Thanks in advance.

There is already over 200amps in circuit breakers. To add 60amps a new panel is needed and the entrance upgraded to at lease 200amps (300 is better).


Adding electrical service to detached garage Please let me know if this sounds correct-

Sub panel fed from 80amp breaker in main building 200amp load center.
Roughly 75' of 1" PVC conduit from existing load panel, under existing timber deck, underground for ~6', stub up outside building, wall penetration to interior main lug load center with 6 branch circuits (1 240V outlet, 4 120V outlets/lighting)

1" PVC Sch 40 Conduit fill-
3x #4 THHN (Hot, Hot, Neutral)
1x #8 THHN (Ground, bonded to main structure load panel ground and ground rod at outbuilding)

Neutral and ground to be isolated in all new wiring.

Thanks for any comments!

I'm not entirely sure what you mean by "neutral and ground to be isolated" but it's my understanding that they should always be connected so that there is zero potential between them.

My understanding is also that only connection between neutral and ground should be at the main panel.  If you connect the neutral to the ground in a second location (the garage) then you'll create a "ground loop".

I'm not an electrician and it's been about 10 years since I read the electrical code so I could be mis-remembering.


OK to drain 2nd vanity sink like drawing? Will this meet code? Hope you can take a look at the drawing and let me know if its ok to hook up the waste like this. The plan is to remove a section of gal at both locations in red and install a pvc sanitary tee and attach with 1-1/2" Fernco Proflex couplings. The existing sink drain that will be removed is @ 14" center. The 2 new drains will be @ 22" center to get up inside the vanity. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks

You show a trap for the laundry, so you need a trap for both sinks and the shower, if you don't fit them then you could / will end up with smells coming in...

It may not meet “code” due to the number of fixtures with just an 1-1/2” vent, but I think it will work fine. Also, “code” may require the vent to be 3” at least 18” before it exits the roof but I don’t think it’s necessary. The only worry with that is if you live in an extremely cold area.  Good luck!


How do you stop the floor from squeaking? I have a home built in the 1940's. The main floor creaks a lot and more squeaking and creaks seem to spring up in new places all the time.

Is there an easy way to stop the squeaking and creaking? I don't necessarily need to prevent future annoyances, but I would like to stop the loudest creaking now.

The basement ceiling (bottom of main floor) is mostly exposed (if that helps).

The main cause of wood floors squeaking is wood shrinkage around the nails. If you can localize the areas that are the worst, a common way to minimize squeaks is to drive screws up from the bottom through the subfloor into the hardwood. Be absolutely sure to use screws that are long enough to grab the hardwood, but short enough not to stick through.

If you do not have hardwood floors then you'll have to decide among a few different techniques appropriate for specific floor coverings, ie. carpet, tile, vinyl etc.

With carpet, for instance, there are special breakaway screws (such as these made by McFeely's) that can be installed from above. With tile or vinyl, the screw from under method is often the way to go.

For a temporary fix, use some talcum powder. Work the powder into the joints between boards with a paintbrush and sweep away any excess.

ThisOldHouse.com


Will returning two 1/2" lines to 3/4" get a volume return? I am converting a seperate shower and tub to a large walk-in spa shower. The cold water at the existing shower is 3/4" (and branched off to the tub,shower & toilet in 1/2"). The new shower valve system is 3/4" so I am good there with just a bit of re-plumbing. The problem is with the hot plumbing. The plumbing is all under slab and the 3/4" part of it is non accessible. The tub and shower hot branch off a 3/4" to 1/2" under the slab somewhere. The access between the two 1/2" hot water lines is configured in a way as I could bring them together at the new shower wall. If I were to bring them together with a T that fed them to a 3/4" line to the new valve would I get my flow back from the 1/2" drops? I am installing 6 body sprayers and need the flow. I did get sprayers with the lowest rate possible (only 1.5 gpm per head). So basically, if I have X amount of volume in a 3/4" pipe and reduce it into two 1/2" pipes then bring both 1/2" pipes back to 3/4" will I retrieve my volume? It would work kind of like a loop would it not?

It depends on your flow rate, and the length of your run. The short answer is you won't have a noticeable pressure drop for a relatively short run.

Using this table, the nominal inside diameters of the pipes actually give you a slightly greater cross sectional area from the two 1/2" pipes (0.608 sq. in. vs 0.533 sq. in.).

However, the head loss is still greater for the two 1/2" pipes. For the 9 GPM you'll need for the body jets, you'll have a loss of about 15.8 ft/100 ft pipe on the 3/4". For the 4.5 GPM you'll need through each 1/2" pipe, you'll have a loss of 16.9 ft/100 ft pipe.*

This comes out to a loss of 6.85 psi per 100 feet of pipe for the 3/4" pipe, or 7.33 psi per 100 feet of pipe for the two 1/2" pipes. You'll have to add another 15.6' of equivalent footage for the two extra T and elbow fittings as well.

*Note: I linearly interpolated these values, but the head loss curve is NOT linear. So not an EXACT answer, but probably close enough.

No, it won't make volume. Two half inch equals one inch of flow and the 3/4 inch is smaller and it will not let you get the same volume. It will flow faster, but less volume.


What size header do I need for a new garage service door? I am going to cut out the wall in my garage under my stairs to build a small room. When I put up the door I have to use a header because it's a load bearing wall. Do I need to make the header out of 2x10, or something else?

For door openings up to 36" (nominal) and for structures with no more than two floors above, it's a safe bet that doubled 2x10s are adequate as a load-bearing header.

Without more detailed information, that's as much as I can say.

There are alot of factors in sizing beams.  Without more information we go to simple spans, simple load cases.

If the door opening is 3'-2" R.O., and it carries a 24' roof span with 25 PSF design snow load AND 24' floor load with 10PSF dead load, 40PSF live load, (2) 2x6 DF #2 more than carries the load.  If it is only roof load, then it can support more roof span (over 50').  Just make sure no concentrated loads from beams or girder trusses land over the door opening; if they do I would recommend consulting a professional.

Point is, (2) 2x6 should be well enough if you can ensure absolutely no concentrated loads are on the beam.


How do I extend outlets after installing a backsplash? I have installed a back splash in my kitchen, if I use the plastic spacers how many should I use or is there a limit? I understand that this can cause to much air space around the receptacle or light switch.

If your problem is that the thickness of the back splash material has caused the electrical boxes to become recessed you may need to use electrical box extenders. These come in a number of styles depending on the type of electrical boxes you have. There are options for metal or plastic boxes for starters. Other factors would be amount of extension needed and whether you are dealing with a single width type box or a wider type.
Here is an example of a metal box extender that works in a telescopic manner to accommodate just the amount of extension that you require.

If you're in an area that follows National Electrical Code (NEC), the boxes cannot be set back more than 1/4" (6 mm). If the backsplash has caused the boxes to be set back more than this, you'll have to use extenders to bring the box out to the proper depth.

National Electrical Code 2011
ARTICLE 314 Outlet, Device, Pull, and Junction Boxes; Conduit Bodies; Fittings; and Handhole Enclosures
II. Installation
314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material, boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate shall be installed so that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (1⁄4 in.).
In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings, or listed extenders shall be flush with the finished surface or project therefrom.

If the box is less than 1/4" from the finished surface, you can use as many spacers as needed to mount the receptacle in such a way that the yoke is held rigidly at the finished surface.

(https://i.stack.imgur.com/cU5SW.jpg)

I have not been able to find this solution to (shim...space...) keep an electrical outlet away from the wall,

So it can sit ABOVE new tile...  ( ie: kitchen backsplash)
     The tabs on both sides of the outlet mounting screws can be bent back like “dog ears” therefore allowing the outlet the spacing needed for install after tile.


How to repair the leg of a computer chair I have an office computer chair whose leg broke, there is a huge crack along the plastic, and it bends, but its still attached. I tried using hot glue and duct tape, but it breaks apart again because of the down force twisting the plastic and sheering it.

Any idea how to fix this?

Replacing is probably most practical.

But if you really want to fix it, you need something to support the weight.  Tape and glue aren't going to do it. I would find a length of strong pipe (check the plumbing section at a home improvement store) that will fit nicely either inside the leg (if it is hollow) or over top of it.  Make the pipe fill/cover as much of the leg as possible.  Then attach with tape, glue, bolts, whatever - just to stop it from sliding out.

If the pipe fits snugly it should hold up fairly well.

you have to make hole on either side (top hole on broken part ,top hole on stationary part , side wise hole on both side of both part) then take a strong metal strip which contain small hole on both the end. then joint this stationary and broken part with strip and NUT BOLT combination THAT's IS TS's DONE


How to manage mold growing along the bottom vinyl window frame of every window in an R2000 home? We have a lot of windows in this house, for some reason black mold grows along the bottom of each from basement to upper floor. Its and R2000 so we don't pump any moisture into the house and we run with a dehumidifier in the basement. We also have central air and a gas furnace. I'm thinking of wiping it away but concerned it will come right back or my wiping activity will spread it.
Windows are all double pane, likely 15 to 19 years old, and in good condition. They are casement - the type that swings open with a crank.

First, kill the mold with bleach and wipe down the whole area to try to get rid of as many spores as possible.

Next, identify and treat the root cause. Mold at the bottom of the inside would suggest that interior condensation is pooling there. Window condensation is caused by two factors:

Interior glass temperatures below the dew point
Humid enough interior air that there's enough moisture to condense on your cold windows

This suggests two potential solutions: decrease the interior humidity level, or get better windows that aren't as cold inside. Getting another dehumidifier or a bigger one is likely to be much cheaper than replacing all your windows with expensive, high-performance triple-pane units which are what you really need to stop condensation in the cold Canadian climate. Window technology has come a long way in the last 15-19 years, but it doesn't come cheap. I'd go with the dehumidifier now if the windows are otherwise in good condition, and start saving up for those better triple-pane windows. You'll feel the difference, and it will stop your condensation problems, too.

Stop using bleach! It's bad for people especially kids. It can actually make your mold problem worse encouraging mold growth. There are inexpensive mold killers at Home Depot that are Environmentally friendly, like Moldex.


Can I oil a push button light switch? I have a circa 1920 push-button light switch which sticks occasionally.  The push buttons move fine, but sometimes the blade switch inside doesn't flip unless the button is pressed very hard.  I'd hate to replace this, because this antique switch has a more solid feel than replicas I've used.  Is there a safe lubricant for mains power the switches?
And yes, I plan to remove the paint. :)

Edit:
I would take it apart to clean, but the screws have been sealed by some kind of resin.

Oil, no. Lubricate, yes. Common oils have multiple problems for electrical devices, the worst of which is possible flammability. You can get specific electrical "contact lubricant" for this though. It is usually not sold in hardware stores, you may have to order it on-line and the smallest package will be a lot more than you need, but don't substitute. And to those who will tell you "WD-40", that is NOT a good lubricant, despite what people think. It's main purpose is as a water displacement agent, in fact that's what the "WD" stands for (Water Displacer, attempt #40 is where the name came from). As a lube, it only lasts a couple of weeks before it breaks down and evaporates.
And NEVER apply any lubricant to an energized device.

There is a type of dry lubricant that is easily accessible and can lubricate your switch.
A pencil (aka Graphite).
You generously write over the area where you need lubricated, use the switch a few times, and keep doing it until it starts working again. The graphite works great as a lubricate and doesn't "leak" everywhere.
Graphite does conduct electricity, but you have to pack the switch with graphite powder before this is an issue.


How do I fill a recurring sinkhole in the rainforest of Hawai'i? Aloha!

My 12x20' outdoor bedroom has a sinkhole below it. The land is lava rock and here, the lava rock was bulldozed, so it was all broken up and indeed, there are lava tubes around these parts. The one below the bedroom has opened up several times and has been filled as much as possible with rocks of varying sizes and cinder.

I am thinking about using that expandable foam now. Any thoughts out there on that?

Foam sounds like a bad idea to me for a sinkhole. I've seen them cover old wells with large quantities of foam followed by earth, but your situation is a never ending geological process caused by water flow. Have you read this about the Guatemala sink hole? The article suggests the right way would be to layer rocks. Very large at the bottom and smaller as you go up so that the water can flow through that area but doesn't take the soil with it causing another sink hole. I'd go that route if it was me.

You need a ramp that hits level ground.

Then you need a large bin of rock and dirt that is higher than the ramp (maybe much higher).  The rock and dirt will slide down the ramp until the hole is full.  This may take some testing.

So as the sinkhole opens you will be giving rock and dirt to it.  And once it has enough it should wait on the ramp for the next opening.

An optional suggestion would be a raking system at the top that would be triggered when items come off of the ramp.  This would evenly distribute the sediment across the hole.

And an optional optional suggestion would be a sprinkler system that would trigger for a certain amount of time after the raking.  This would add weight to your sinkhole so that it compacts in the hole.  This may trigger more dirt and rock to be used but I take sinkhole filling seriously.


How to remove Tile levelling clips (T-type) that have partially broken off? After laying my tile, some of the T-levelling clips broke off above the tile.

Unfortunately as a result I have small clip bits poking up above the tile. Any ideas on how to remove them before I grout?

Utility knife worked best, thanks for the suggestions.


Will I be forced to bring fridge and laundry circuits up to code? I'm adding new lights and a few receptacles to my basement. I just discovered that my kitchen fridge and laundry washing machine are both on the basement lights circuit (14awg, 15A breaker).

I think code says that both fridge and washing machine need to be on dedicated 20A circuits.

Will this pass inspection, or will they require me running new 20A circuits for fridge and washer?

I'm the home owner doing my own electrical in Ontario Canada.  I have the whole ceiling pulled down, but don't have easy run to the panel. No breakers have tripped since moving in a year ago.

There's no general retroactivity requirement in the CEC that I can find

CEC Rule 2-022 only requires renovation of the electrical installation if some hazard is posed by the condition of the installation or as a result of alteration thereto:

  The inspection department may require such changes as may be necessary to be made to existing installations
  where, through hard usage, wear and tear, or as a result of alterations or extensions, dangerous conditions have
  developed.

However, if you're required to upgrade: Dedicated, yes.  20A, no.

The CEC (as of the 2015 edition I was able to find) does require dedicated circuits for the laundry (26-722(b)) and refrigerator (26-722(a)) receptacles; however, they are permitted to be 15A receptacles on 15A circuits.

They will. And rightfully so. DIY or have it done--either way you should sleep better. Ensure 12awg is used on the new circuits.


How can I increase the power capacity of a kitchen circuit? My small kitchen has two standard duplex outlets in one wall: one of the outlets is in a corner behind the fridge and it's exclusively for the fridge. The other outlet (this one) is the one I use for the three small appliances (a panini maker, a small electric oven, and a microwave) plus the electric part of the gas stove (clock, oven light, etc).
I've been using a simple power cord strip similar to this, but it shuts down if I connect a small oven or the microwave.
What alternatives do I have to increase the number of plugs? I can't break the wall to install another outlet.

Know your appliances
Every one of your appliances has a nameplate or something stating its power usage.  You are looking for any of the following:

Amps (typically 5-13)
Watts (typically 200-1500)
VA (typically 200-1500)

If you get watts or VA, divide by 120. That gives us amps.
Expect most of your kitchen heat-making appliances to be 1500W, or 12.5 amps.  This is because of the UL White Book, the safety standards for making appliances: UL only allows 1500 watts from appliances which plug in.  Sometimes a microwave will be permitted 1800W, since it is guaranteed not to be run continuously.   1800W is 15 amps.
Know your power source
Look closely at your power strip.  It will state a maximum amps that it is rated for (or again, watts; you know how to convert).   I would expect 900-1800 watts (7.5 to 15 amps).
Now, go to your circuit breaker panel. Look for the circuits which feed the kitchen.  There will be a number of funny looking switches, most of which say "15" or "20" on the handle.  See if you can identify the fridge circuit and the kitchen circuit you normally use.  The number on the handle is amps - that same figure we've been working with.   That is the absolute hard-maximum capacity of the circuit for intermittent use.   If you're running continuously (3 hours or more) you should only use 80% of that.
Balance your appliances.
The nameplate is accurate on hand-held plug-in tools.  It's not so accurate on certain appliances and I'll cover them.

Refrigerators take about 1 amp when running.  A bunch more for an instant while starting, but 1 amp once running.  That's not much at all, is it, compared to other appliances?
The gas oven takes even less - 0.1 to 0.5 amp depending on if the oven light is on.
A panini maker runs at the UL limit of 12.5 amps. PIGGY!
A small electric oven runs at the UL limit of 12.5 amps.  PIGGY!
A microwave runs 12.5 to 15 amps, depending on what UL has allowed.  PIGGY!

Now, if you're doing the math, you just noticed that the oven and refrigerator Do Not Matter.  However, the three "piggies" each take 12.5A or more.  There's no way to run 2 of them without pulling 25 amps, and  that's too big for everything - too big for the power strip, too big for a 15A breaker and too big for a 20A breaker.
It ain't gonna happen. You cannot run 2 appliances at once on one circuit.  A different power strip cannot fix this. The circuit breaker downstairs will just trip instead.
What about that refrigerator circuit?
Modern Code requires that every kitchen have two 20A receptacle circuits.  I don't know if your kitchen complies.  If it does, the other circuit might be that refrigerator circuit.  Find Out.  Turn off the circuit breaker that feeds the oven and range, and see if the fridge loses power too.
If the fridge is on a separate circuit, well, fridges take very little power.  It can easily share the circuit with ONE - exactly one - piggy.
The reason we prefer to dedicate fridge circuits is we don't want another appliance causing the circuit to overload or ground-fault, and trip out the fridge while you are away or without you knowing it.
Also, it is vital that small kitchen appliances have protection called GFCI.  That protects you if an appliance falls in the sink, or has an electrical problem of some kind. That protection is useless for refrigerators - you're not likely to drop one in the sink! And it can spoil food if it has a false trip, which happens a lot with refrigerators. So fridges are often not on GFCI.  So if they told you not to use that circuit, see if that is why.  If the plug is more than 6 feet from a sink, it should be alright to use.

Don't use a power strip with a built-in breaker. They're usually more sensitive than the service panel breaker already protecting the circuit, reducing current capacity. Instead, use a plain cord with multiple outlets or an outlet expander:

Note that this will not give you more current capacity than the service panel breaker currently allows. You'll be able to keep all your appliances plugged in, but you'll still need to be judicious in when you fire them up. What you won't have is nuisance trips of the power strip.


Can the breaker on a sub-panel be rated for more amps than the main breaker? Got a new spa I want to replace old 40amp sub with a 50 amp sub GFCI ( the only one available ) it is on a dedicated 40 amp from the main. Maybe a stupid question but can my main be less than my sub?

A little more info.

Spa only requires 30amp because it is much smaller than the previous spa, and I never had trouble with the breaker. I just wanted to add in the GFI for safety reasons, because it wasn't required 10-15 years ago when original was installed.  it was city inspected when I originally put it in, so wire size, type, conduit are all to "code"

If the current panel is fed from a 40 ampere breaker, with wire rated for 40 amperes. Installing a 50 ampere breaker in the second panel is pointless, since the 40 ampere breaker will trip before the load can draw 50 amperes.

If you want to upgrade to a 50 ampere breaker in the second panel, you'll have to upgrade the breaker in the main panel, and the conductors feeding the second panel. Then you can install a 50 ampere GFCI breaker in the second panel.

After new info.

If you're putting in a 50 ampere breaker; even simply for GFCI protection, all the wiring downstream of the breaker must be rated for 50 amperes.

A circuit breaker is designed to protect the wiring and devices connected to it. If you have a 30 ampere load (the spa) protected by a 40 or 50 ampere breaker, than the load and wiring could carry 40 or 50 amperes before the circuit breaker even thinks about reacting.  So unless the wiring is sized to dissipate that amount of heating, then you're creating a dangerous situation.

My advice is to put a new 30 ampere GFCI breaker in the second panel. If that's all that the spa requires, why muck about with anything else.  If the store doesn't have what you need, order it, or go to a different store.

The best way to know for sure, is to contact the local Electrical inspector. It's going to be their call as to whether or not they pass your wiring.

Absolutely. Everything downstream of the breaker in the main panel is protected to 40 Amps, as required. The sub breaker is really only providing CGFI protection.

Removing my answer, deferring to @tester101's experience. (Not actually deleting the answer to keep all of the comments.)


How much weight can you mount to a wall? I would like to mount a fairly heavy shelving unit (~150lbs) to a wall with a number of L-brackets. It being a shelving unit, I would be putting all kinds of books and random stuff on it, thus increasing the weight.

This seems like a bad idea to me. I have no idea how heavy it could end up being with books, DVDs, art supplies, etc.

Is there a limit to how much weight should be mounted to a wall?

150 lbs is a very heavy set of shelves, unless the bottom sits on the floor and you only need to secure it to the wall so it won't tip forward.  In any case, there is no written limit on weight, but a lot of common sense has to be used in this case. You will want to know what the rating of the "L" brackets are and if strong enough to hold your load. They would have to be securely mounted to studs in the wall with some pretty large screws. There are no anchors for drywall that I would trust for that much weight. Perhaps you might consider some legs from the bottom of your shelf unit to the floor to support the weight.

You can support any load provided proper ovehang support is provided. Use L bracket with diagonal supoort.You can reduce the span of brackets depending on the load.Also ties from the roof can be provided. A rectangular bracket with two diagonal ties and secured in roof slab and the wall is another solution.


Does a portable fan work for drying the bathroom? If a bathroom has no windows and doesn't get completely dry after a shower (neither do the towels, and the ceiling starts to grow black spots of mold), can a regular fan dry everything after the shower?
Which of these is more efficient? (forget about the other rooms that will get more humid)

Placing the fan in the doorway, pointing to the outside the bathroom.
Placing the fan in the doorway, pointing to the inside, oscillating.
Placing the fan inside the bathroom, far from the doorway, pointing the doorway.

Why is the exhaust fan better than a direct wind into the surfaces? When we want to dry our hair, we point a blow dryer to it, and not a "humidity sucker".

You need a dehumidifier.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dehumidifier
If there is no way to blow the humid air out, run it thru a dehumidifier.  You can keep it in the bathroom running on a timer or roll it into the shower to run after you wash up, and let the collected water go down the drain.

Yes, in the same way that fans dry a mopped floor faster.  Using a towel would be much faster, though.


too much moisture in concrete slab We had vinyl floor installed a year ago that is now coming up.  The installer said he will replace with another floor as soon as we find out where the moisture is coming from.  We had a plumber do tests and he found no leaks and the foundation contractor said there were no drainage issues or cracks in the foundation.  I am at a loss as to who else to contact about this problem or what it could be.  The house is only 4 years old.

what you might consider doing rather than searching for a mysterious leak is to install a raised floor on top of the concrete. This is simply a frame work of treated lumber fabricated on the concrete. To solve the moisture issue a sheet of plastic is installed between the treated lumber and the old concrete floor. If you are installing a sheet floor covering you will need to cover the treated lumber with tongue and grooved plywood. This suggestion will only work if moisture is minimal. If you have standing water the source of the leak must be found and repaired. This solution is for a floor that is damp, but not wet.


Is this cord bend ok on electric range? Will this be okay for a 40 amp range? The box was set a little too low. I wasn't sure if they bend what cause any issues.

I'm not certain what guage that wire is but many manufacturers will cite a minimum bend radius.
It may or may not be code compliance wherever you are in the world.
I suspect that wire has a minimum bend radius between 1 and 2 inches.
You can achieve that most easily by just rotating the receptacle. The wire will tail upwards, which will look strange, but it will be behind the range so as long as you can maintain the clearance required, you'll be fine.

So, Matthew's solution works if your plug is symmetric; but what if it isn't? The grounded types mostly arent.
A quick fix is to use an Male-to-Female adapter with a right angle in an appropriate direction, e.g.:

(if that fits). Then you won't have to worry about the cable's tolerance to nasty bending. A second, similar alternative is using a rotating extension cable:


Is there a difference between Low-e Glass And Argon Gas? Is there a difference between Low-e Glass And Argon Gas?

My boss is trying to convince me that they are one in the same, despite my repeated attempts to differentiate the two for him. At this point, I need help to prove it to him that there is an extreme difference.

Low-E windows are designed with material inside the glass or layered on it at the time of manufacture.

Argon Gas windows are multiple-pane windows that are air-tight with the gap between the panes filled with argon at assembly.

It is possible to get windows that are both at once. A Google search for Argon Windows brings up several links explaining Low-E windows and how Argon and Low-E are not the same.

Low-E ideally works to reflect the ultraviolet rays, reject infrared and keep your home cooler in a warmer climate. Argon gas is an injected gas between the Panes of glass to help prevent cool air from penetrating in the winter. Argon gas is typically warranted in a colder climate. A simple rule of thumb is Low-E is and should be standard in a southern, warm climate, and argon gas should be standard in a colder climate. With all of that being said, it's become truly unfortunate and a market only for the extremely savvy. For those of you that are under the impression that you can purchase windows and feel confident in your decision without a hitch, you're likely in for a rude awakening. Many,many scam are perpetrated daily. Many examples, but I'll try to stick to the topic. (Low-E), many companies claim that theirs is better than another companies. How so?  Well, they claim their application and product performance is better. What I've found repeatedly without fail is that they'll sell the consumer on something that sounds great, Low-E squared, or Low-E cubed, and it's passed off as better, because it rejects more heat. But in reality it's the equivalent of a rushed painting project. No one would ever paint an interior wall by applying  3 or 4 coats at once. You sand, prime, then apply your base coat until you're satisfied with how it's turned out. That's exactly the gimmick behind low-e squared and cubed that companies like Milgard use.  On to Argon Gas, is it necessary even in a cold climate? Sure, but only if you're truly getting a iron clad warranty on the stabilization and life of the argon gas. How it's injected, stabilized and where it's manufactured are all key. In Denver, CO, or Minnesota, which is where Andersen Windows manufacturers and ships, let's say that you live in Phoenix, AZ, like I do. You will see in the fine print, if you look; that they guarantee the presence of 99.9% of argon gas upon manufacturing. That 99.9% goes all the way down to a worthless 5%-0.1% upon installation. So, what are you really paying for?

In summation, it's become extremely  difficult to pick the right product from the wrong and to identify the good companies from the bad. So much so that you truly need help with this process. It's not dissimilar to buying a used car. Consult a knowledgeable friend, confidant or professional before purchasing any type of home improvement project.


Why is my gas stove taking 30+ seconds to light? I have a gas cooktop that takes a really long time to ignite.  You have to hold down the ignitor and it clicks for an absurd amount of time (30+ seconds) before the burner ignites.  Everything after that works fine.  After you have been cooking for a while, if you turn the burner off then back on within a few minutes, it will light quicker (<5 seconds).  All the burners are like this.

Using a stick lighter or a match has the same problem with lighting.

What do I need to check?  Could the ignitor be bad?  Not enough gas coming through to the burners?  Clogged burners?

The problem is clearly with the gas feed.  If other portions (like other burners) work okay, the plumbing in common to those and further upstream is all fine.  The problem would be the last portions to the burners.

I would start by removing the grate, lifting off the burner caps, and lift up the burner assemblies.  Any foreign matter in there?  If there is goo, run them through the dishwasher, toothpaste and an old toothbrush, or a steel wool cleaning pad and water to get it off.

Have a look at the igniter tips:  are they clean and shiny?  Do the heavily used tips look similar to the lightly used tips?  200–400 grit sandpaper is the easy fix for these.  Place the burners back into position carefully, making sure each seats securely and aligns with the igniter.  Place the caps back on paying attention to the alignment of the nub-like posts underneath (which keeps them from sliding off) so they don't cause a gap by making the cap sit up on a post.

If that doesn't renew performance, it is either a valve or plumbing problem.  I would call an appliance repairman at that point for his/her knowledge of the exact problems with that model as well as the range of solutions and prices.

Sorry I'm late.. but it may help others.

I asked my cousin the same question and he mentioned it's because a fan comes on
and clears the oven of any gas... before it ignites. to clear the oven of any gas
which would explode.  The top burners connect right away since there's no enclosed place for gas to accumulate.
  klsdad


How should I conceal gaps between laminate flooring and wall trim? I am looking for the best way to fill some small gaps left between flooring and wall in new house, see image. Guessing the previous owners installed the flooring themselves hence why the finish is not always right against corners and walls. The floor is still close to new so definitely don't want to be relaying it.

Gaps are no bigger than 1cm. Was thinking of either caulk or silicone but have read that silicone is easy to do badly and very difficult to cleanup and correct. Caulk easier to install but less flexible and liable to crack.

Any tips greatly appreciated.

Wood flooring is usually installed with a gap to the actual wall - this is important, because it allows for differences in expansion/contraction between the flooring and the materials used to frame the building. If you tried to make a perfect tight fit, the floor would either buckle, crack, or pull away from the wall.

The gap is typically covered with trim (molding) when finishing the room after installing the flooring.

Problems arise when people try to install new flooring without replacing the trim. It looks like that's what has happened here, since it appears that your flooring is butted up against the trim, not the actual wall itself. The most common method of dealing with this is to install more trim, up against the existing trim - typically, a piece of quarter round molding as seen in this photo:

It appears that the photo you've posted shows a door frame. For cases like this, where a quarter round would block the operation of the door, it's typical to undercut the existing molding so the new flooring can be slipped under it. Here's a photo of a piece of flooring slipped under an undercut door jamb:

Of course, in your case, it's too late to undercut the jamb. Unless you're willing to rework the door there may not be much you can do that won't run the risk of looking like a hack-job. I would be tempted to cut small pieces of the floor material and lay them in the gaps (leaving them free-floating so they can move with the floor). Or, you could use small pieces of flooring cork (or any cork, really) or even foam rubber. Once the gap is filled, your eye won't pick up on it as easily. Caulk won't be easy to get a good looking finish with, and will likely shrink or pull away in a gap that large anyways.

If you do try to fill the gap, make sure it's with a material that can still allow for movement of the flooring.

Get a small tub of window glazing. Its a putty you can form a ball of in your hand. Press it into all gaps . leveling not important just be sure its not bulging above. And putty knife it smooth. Let it harden up for a couple of. Weeks. Then take auto body smoothing cream for scratches. Its at any auto shop and walmart. Tube is squeeze and its red. Wet. And pink when dried sanded. Sand. All the spots. Have paint mixed to match primary color. Use a black felt tip pen to create grain lines . works without fail.


Why doesn't my toilet flush completely outside summer months? So my toilet only flushes down during the summer months. Yet during winter fall and spring it wont go down all the way. Can't figure out why. Tried a snake and every other means to unclog but I doubt its clogged.

I'm in Michigan. summers are usually 80 or a little higher. 50 60s in fall and spring. and as low as-1 in winter.

This screams frozen vent stack.

To keep your drains flowing, you need to equalize the pressure. The problem is your sewer lines contain harmful gasses you don't want in your house. As such, you have a vent stack, a common drain pipe that allows gasses to vent out of the roof.

In deep winter (i.e. well below freezing, which is common in Michigan) what can happen is that the warm(er) water has some vapors that will head up the stack. Due to the extreme cold, the vapor condenses as it leaves the top of the stack. It then strikes the cold pipe, freezing to it. And now this makes for a nice perch for snow (image source)

There's a couple of things to do

Insulate the vent stack pipe inside your attic. This helps a bit in that the water vapor loses less heat as it ascends.
Install something designed to keep the vapor from freezing to the top of the pipe. There's a number of products that do that by either passively absorbing heat from inside your home and transferring it up, or by being made of material that absorbs solar heat to keep the surface above freezing. You can also install a traditional pipe heater materials at the top.

this is more of a suggestion than an answer, but I think you should go to a big box store and buy a new toilet (a good one).  Install it in the winter and see if it solves your problem.  If it doesn’t you can return it and know that it’s something beyond the fixture.  I had a friend who’s toilet was bubbling and we thought it was everything else... needless to say we changed the toilet and it solved the problem.


Why does the pilot light go out when the furnace is running? Every time the furnace fires up, it blows out the pilot light. Sometimes it will run a full cycle and blow out when it shuts down, and sometimes it will blow out about a minute into the cycle.

We had a tech at the house yesterday for a different furnace issue, and unfortunately, nobody was home when he came. From what we can tell, he changed some of the copper lines going into the furnace and he did remove the air filters.

When we got home the furnace was running fine, but after a couple of cycles it started acting up. We relight the pilot with no problem, but as I said as soon as it starts running, it blows the pilot out.

Could the lack of air filters be the problem, or do I need to call the tech back to the house?

The pilot light worked fine before a tech came out.

The tech left with your furnace in an incorrect state - namely - he removed the filters.

Furnaces are supposed to have filters.  That alone is enough reason to call him back.

Call him up, say, 'You left w/o replacing the filters and now the pilot lite is going out.  Get back here please, and fix it.'

A cracked heat exchanger comes to mind first, leaking supply ducts causing negative pressure, a bad thermocouple, bad


What is the best way to polish an old brass bed? I have an old brass bed frame with 15 years of tarnish and I've been trying to use Brasso, but the process is long and tedious. Does anyone know of an easier way to remove tough tarnish from brass?

+

A drill mounted buffing ball or disc should eliminate most of the elbow grease needed for the job.

I have just tried a mixture of mayonnaise, vinegar and lemon juice, and it works beautifully! With only a quarter of the effort used to clean with Brasso and far better results!


sub panel breaker box I am wanting to install a breaker box inside of a house addition and the box I bought has a 100 amp main breaker for cut off. I'm only going to be pulling around 4500 to 5000 watts at the most so I was wondering if I could run 10/3 UF wire and still use the 100 amp main breaker? I read on other forums a 30 amp main breaker could used.

For a subpanel application -- what you can do is pull the main breaker out of the panel and use a set of main lugs instead, as the panel disconnect is provided by the upstream feeder breaker (which will be a 30A unit given that your feeder is a 30A feeder).  In particular, since the 100A MCB BR panels use a backfed type BR main breaker, you can simply pull the main breaker out and replace it with a BRSF125 main lug kit.

Of course, if you want a single disconnecting means at the subpanel, you can leave the main breaker in there and use it as a disconnect switch.

It's unfortunate you've already bought the 100A breaker, but NO. The breaker is there primarily to protect the wires, and only secondarily to protect the loads. A 100A breaker will not protect 10AWG wire adequately. Said differently, 10AWG is grossly undersized for 100A breaker.

You have two options: replace the 100A breaker with a 30A breaker and use the 10/3 UF cable, or keep the 100A breaker and install 3/3 UF instead. Installing 3/3 is no picnic (it's very stiff), and will likely cost more than a 30A breaker, but is definitely more "future proof" if you feel there will be more loads added to the subpanel (like electric floor heating, a stove, etc.)


AFCI breaker - ruined by fridge? I have a house that is just under 2 years old.  My 2 year old GE Profile fridge (model PWE23KSKJSS) is hooked up to a dedicated circuit that runs off a 20 AMP Arc Fault breaker.  There is nothing else on this breaker, only the one fridge outlet and nothing else.
Everything was fine for 1 year, then my breaker tripped and could not be reset, as if there was a dead short - whether or not the fridge was plugged in.  I tested for continuity without the fridge being plugged in and there was none, so it didn't seem like there was any kind of short.
I replaced the breaker with the identical model and it was fine for about 6 months, then the exact same thing happened.
So it really seems as if the fridge itself is responsible - as if the motor is burning out the circuitry in the breaker.  Is such a thing possible and has anyone else had a similar experience?
I thought I'd post my question before replacing the breaker for a 3rd time, and I'm thinking just a normal breaker this time.
Eaton panel and Eaton 20 Amp arc fault breaker.

I have had trouble with both arc fault and GFCI breakers (and receptacles) with motor loads especially Refrigerators and front load washing machines. The big issue I believe that is causing the failures was high efficiency motors the variable speed controls. arc faults can’t tell the difference between arcs and a short pulse used for speed control. The early arc fault breakers also had trouble with lighting dimmers when the circuit had a fair sized load (10-12 amps).
I would check your state codes and see if the dedicated circuit even requires arc fault protection. In my state devices known to have problems like the above are exempted from gfci or arc fault protection when on a dedicated circuit.
Things that can cause arc faults to trip.
Capacitors especially electrolytes as the age.
SCR & TRIAC’s these are the solid state switches that control the wave form to the motor or device.
Pitted contacts on “start relays” or contactors.
Inductive kick back from the motor itself
And what they are designed to trip , arcing from damage to insulation by a staple, screw or metal box.

Try changing the outlet. A cheap fix if it works.  Also try using that AFCI breaker in another similar load circuit and see if it trips as often as when in the refrigerator circuit.


Why did my generator trip the feed breaker in the subpanel? I connected a Predator 9000 generator to an Intermatic pool subpanel through a 2 pole 30 amp breaker to backfeed the main panel through another 2 pole 30 amp breaker. There is a GFCI receptacle on the subpanel but was inoperable and its breaker was off.
When all breakers are off in the main panel including the main breaker I flip on the generator feed breaker in the subpanel then the breaker in the main panel that feeds house circuits. Either the the breaker in the subpanel trips or the breaker in the main panel trips or generator bogs down then they trip.
I converted the generator to floating neutral and it still happened.

Frame challenge:
You need a generator interlock. Full stop.
You need a mechanical device that positively ensures the generator cannot backfeed the power grid.
You cannot replace this with a checklist, or with "being super smart". The rest of us need to do that, and you are not smarter than the rest of us - especially not during a power failure when you're running around trying to get the lights back on, in the dark, in the rain.
If you doubt that, consider the difficulty you're having solving this problem, in good conditions. You are not Superman and you CAN make mistakes.  The interlock's job is to ensure those mistakes don't kill someone. And it is mandatory.
So the idea of backfeeding your pool subpanel is Right Out, because it makes the proper interlock impossible.  You are either going to have to
a) lay a new cable, or
b) "permanently" re-task the pool supply cable to be the generator supply cable, resulting in the pool ONLY being powerable off the generator.
Yes, I'm aware that's exactly what you're trying to avoid.  The rest of us don't get to do that, neither do you.
I say "permanently" because there is nothing wrong with doing permanent and proper wiring seasonally, as long as it is proper and to Code.
Now, if you get us some information about your main panel, we can guide you to some good choices in generator interlock. (We're not normally a shopping site, but we can give some guidance).
Why?
Because power flows both ways, as you well know from your efforts to backfeed the pool sub.  It also backfeeds out onto the neighborhood grid.  It also backfeeds through transformers.  When you energize the 120/240V side of a 120/240--9600V transformer, the high side of the transformer energizes at -- anyone, anyone, Bueller?  Correct, 9600 volts.
And that's how you kill linemen with a Harbor Freight generator.

New here but I have some possibilities:
First have to say you definitely can't do this without an interlock!
Taking the your statement at face value - that all breakers are off (and not defective) suggests one possible scenario: The generator could have a miss-wired cord/socket, or plug. If the neutral is switched with a hot pole, it would feed the system ground with 120V (through the bonding or ground rod systems).
Although this would not explain the breaker tripping in the main panel.
I think here should be a ground rod for the pool.
If the resistance of the grounding system(s) is less than 4Ω, and you have a wiring fault, it would draw more than 30A. I am wondering if the breakers tripped immediately when the neutrals were tied, and tripped slow and loaded the generator when you isolated the generator neutral?
Check all your plugs and sockets' wiring for proper wiring. Try volt checks to confirm they are right; THEN, try and see if there are any sneak loads you missed...
Bottom line is something is not exactly as described; actual connections must diverge from what you think it is, or a faulty device somewhere.
It could not do what it is doing, if it is actually as described (or has a wire shorting or miswired or a device fault).
[EDIT]: Thinking this through more thoroughly, a ground loop would not explain the breakers tripping if the generator was wired wrong. This only leaves a load you overlooked, or a fault in the wiring. (speaking practically).
Make sure you don't have a main lug feed (terminology?) coming off the main panel buses, and connected to a load you missed.
If all your wiring checks out, the I would not move wiring too much or you may loose the fault you are trying to pinpoint (the problem could 'go away', only to appear again sometime in the future!). I would check the main panel buses and pool box breaker for voltage first (for safety), to be sure everything is off/isolated; then ohm all ways to see if there is a fault somewhere.
The only other (unlikely) possibility is if there is a defective breaker that does not open (shut off). You stated you are using double pole breakers (not 2 singles), so it should not be possible to stab them on the same poles...
[I would not rule out a main breaker that did not open one pole; however unlikely it could be possible]
Check and double-check...
Again, I emphatically second with Harper - Reinstate Monica and others have stated: You MUST have an interlock method!


Purpose of Fill Valve Tube Going into Overflow Drain I can easily understand the purpose of the overflow tube itself, but why is the little black hose that comes from the fill valve placed down into the overflow tube?  On my toilet, there is a strong stream of water that comes from the black hose, and it seems like going right into the overflow tube is a complete waste of water.

I know I must be missing something obvious, but I can't see it.

That tube provides water to refill the bowl. Without it, you'd only refill the tank.

After each flush the water replaces itself already in the syphon constructed down in the bowl, a so called "swan neck", so there is no need at all to put extra water in there. Or do you need an additional tube under your zink in the kitchen to prevent odor from the sewer in your kitchen?.... no! In my eyes its totaly sinless and designed to waste water. Not to mention the additional costs of the syphons and the rubber flaps which need to be replaced every so many years (2-4yrs), designed for ripoff. Measure once the amount of water what you waste putting in the sewer, you will be amazed. There are some manufacturers who sell to their new syphons for the tank little valves which you put on the rubber hose to reduce the waterflow in the overflow tube. I prefer putting a cablebinder over the looped hose to prevent wasting water or to put a 90 degree angle hose so that the water coming out of the hose goes into the tank. In several countries i`ve been you still find the traditional floater ball in the tank where there is no tube going nowhere in the overflow tube.


Is there a freezing-water-resistant metal pipe? I want to install a water outlet on the outside of my house for gardening etc. Outside temperatures here in Latvia fall to -25°C sometimes, so I cannot use a common water pipe; it would burst when the water freezes. Is there a formula to tell how thick the pipe wall must be compared to the water volume inside the pipe, so that the pipe would withstand the force of frozen water expanding. Are there water taps that are strong enough?

Are there other solutions that do not require heating?

A common device used in the US (and required by some building codes) is a water outlet that is long so that turning off the water allows the portion exposed to the elements to dry out.  These are called "Frost-free" or "freeze proof", etc.:

They come in different lengths, and the actual valve is all the way to the right of this picture where the copper meets the brass.  This causes the entire valve to drain so no water is exposed to outside temperatures.  The actual water pipes will be well inside the wall of the home and will generally not be exposed to freezing temperatures.

Here is another diagram to help explain from this answer:

The force of water freezing in 114,000 psi-(PER GOOGLE). That being said, you can use a number of previously  mentioned devices... another way is to "minimize' the damage when it happens. One method is the use of simple freeze plugs and/or a ball valve with a freeze plug incorporated in it.


How to solve a miswiring of neutral and ground An Outlet in the dining room which had a microwave plugged into it stopped working. I found 120+ volts from hot to ground and 96+ from hot to neutral. Also at one point my "three light tester" showed hot-ground reversed at one point, but also good at another point.

After researching on-line I believed the problem to be an open neutral, possibly in a back stabbed outlet or loose neutral wire nut connection. I started by checking all connections on that particular circuit once I isolated it in the breaker box. I replaced both outlets,connecting to the screws not the backstabs. I also rewired light switches by disconnecting the backstabs and re-attaching to the screws although this step, in hindsight, was probably unnecessary.

Eventually I found a two wire (hot and neutral only) ceiling light fixture in an adjacent laundry room (same breaker in panel box). The plastic fixture box has four Neutral wires plus the neutral light fixture and a ground wire all in a single wire nut. When I removed the ground from the connection of five neutrals (four rolex and one light) the light stopped working and I now have 120V from hot to ground but only 16V hot to neutral at the outlet.

I really don't think I want to rewire the ground back into the neutrals and I am thinking I should continue by checking the neutral set screws on the neutral bar in the panel, but I'm a little stumped about the ground that I disconnected and re-attached to the green nut on the light mounting bracket that spans the plastic ceiling box.

The ground conductors were probably functioning as your neutral return (just not very well) until you disconnected it at the light.  So not only do you have an open (or high resistance) neutral wire, but you also have too much resistance in a ground wire.  If you've checked all the boxes and terminals for loose connections, you may have a damaged wire in the structure somewhere.  The high resistance will cause heat (and risk of fire) if you continue to use the circuit.  I would probably contact someone who has access to test equipment that can diagnose the actual in-wall wiring.  (like maybe an infrared thermometer to detect a hot spot, or a voltage detector to trace wires in the walls, or at least an ohmmeter)

I have a similar problem, something my dad and I tried might help:

Shut off the breaker for that circuit and run an extension cord from a live outlet to each receptacle (one at a time) to try to follow the problem.


circuit breaker trips I have a breaker that keeps tripping even when no load is on it.  I have already replaced the breaker with a new one, replaced a ground fault outlet and a dimmer switch (all on that circuit), and the same thing happens.  There are two outlets I haven't checked and the light itself. Also I have checked for loose neutral wires at the panel. How do I find the problem?

I guess the first step is to find out everything that's on this circuit, is the breaker a ground fault breaker or a regular breaker with a ground fault recepticle. If it's a regular breaker and you changed it, then it's not like an older one getting weak. So there has to be something else on this circuit drawing excess power. Flip the breaker off and start testing everything to see what's not working, recepticles as well. In the event the breaker is a ground fault breaker, you need to remove the ground fault recepticle.


My home air conditioner that's inside the house, seems to be sputtering when coming on. What could this be? My home air conditioner inside the house; when it's going thru its normal cycle of off and on, it seems to be sputtering and/or hesitating to come on. It's like or similar to a car that having a hard time staying running. Once it's doing this, it eventually stays on and is still cooling the house. The fan outside is fine and we don't hear any other noises. Please help soon as possible.

If it sounds like liquid than I'd guess that the pump that circulates the coolant isn't being submerged properly when in its sleep state, and only once it gets a good vacuum and liquid pouring into its reservoir does it quiet down. I'd have someone check the fluid levels as you may need more of whatever coolant (Freon?) it uses.


How do I finish off a silicone sealant like a professional? I have patched a couple of places at the base of my shower with silicone rubber sealant, using a caulking gun and it has worked well. The water no longer escapes from the shower. However, where I have done the patching, it is lumpy. Where the original sealant is there is a smooth continuous finish.

Two questions:
1. Can the existing lumpiness (now dry) be made to look smooth?
2. What should I have done to make the finish look smooth and professional?

You will have to remove it and reapply.
The trick is soap. Have a bowl of water and a bar of soap. Dip your finger in the water then rub it on the soap before using it to smoothe the silicone.

Soapy fingers work well. A slice of potato also does a great job and does not spread the silicone as much as a finger.


How to transition laminate flooring to this prefab threshold? I know I should leave a gap around all edges of free-floating laminate flooring, but I'm not sure how to do that in front of this door.  What should I use to cover the gap?

This is an outswing exterior door.  It's one of those prefabs where the door is already hung in the frame and they just screw the whole thing into the opening.  The interior edge of the threshold has a groove in it that looks like I could press in a weather strip or something.  Is there a type of transition molding made for this?

A silver carpet strip should do nicely there.

There are T mouldings that replace the threshold and cover the laminate on 1 side and the other side is in tight contact. Some have a track that is screwed down that the new threshold snaps into others are screwed down like traditional thresholds. Pinching the laminate with old school types can be troublesime if a floating type floor. The damage can be as simple as buckling , or rubbing through the top layer as the floor moves in a high tragic area like this. ( I have seen floors do ok with old school but have also seen the surface damage and buckling).


House with some cracks on the exterior wall We are thinking of buying this house but it has some cracks on the exterior wall...

It is clear that someone tried to patch them in the past. How bad do these look to you? The house was built in 1926 and we think it has cavity walls (although not 100% sure - the wall is 280mm thick). Inside it looks dry and there are no apparent cracks.

If we were to buy the house what would be the best thing to do about them? How much would it cost to rectify?

[Removed pictures for privacy]

If you haven't already, engage a home inspector who understands buildings and local conditions (especially with regard to soil). He or she will be able to offer a useful opinion on root causes, side effects and mediation strategy. (Depending on market conditions, the last part can form an important part of your price negotiation strategies, or convince you to walk away.)

After reading about subsidence, footing, settlement issues, etc. I came up with the theory that the issue is caused by a number of things:

there is probably little footing
the house is built on clay
the wall is south facing (it gets a lot of sun)
the gutters empty underground next to the footing of the house in a corner - not sure how or where exactly but I would not be surprised if the ducting is blocked somewhere because it appears to be very wet where the gutter enters the tarmac
in this area of the country we get a lot of rain

I think what happens here is that the clay under the house expands when it rains and shrink pretty quickly when it is sunny, causing too much movement for the wall to handle. Also on top of that, the water that enters the existing cracks, freezes when it's cold and pushes the cracks forward a bit at the time.

I am not an expert and I didn't get to poke around enough to know for sure but on a second inspection, I realised that that the inside wall is pretty damp (which is not a good sign for a south facing wall - I guess the cracks don't help) and I maybe there are some cracks inside after all - behind the wallpaper.

It is clear that there has been movement fairly recently because the various fixes that the previous owner attempted have popped out - so I think this is a current issue and does need fixing... whatever the issue is, it needs an unknown amount of time and money thrown at it. Perhaps, the best thing to do would be to extend the foundations and the house forward.

In any case, I found other unrelated issues which put me off and the property price was not negotiable, so in the end, we changed our mind about getting this house - it would have been a bite bigger than what we can chew right now.

Thank you everyone that commented on this post... Your help was truly appreciated.

...Good luck to whoever takes it on!


When there are multiple circuits in a junction box do all grounds get connected If I have a junction box where there are splices from several circuits, do I connect all ground wires from all circuits together in one bundle or do I do that for each circuit within the junction box?

Only one answer...  YES, all the bare grounds go together!!

You connect all the grounds together with a ground crimp connector.  A wire nut is not sufficient to meet code.

And then if the box is metal, you connect the crimped bundle to the box.  Leave one of the ground wires longer than the others, sticking through the crimp connector, and attach that one to the box.


How many Outlets can you put on a 14-2 Barcode how many outlets can you put on a 14-2 Wire

In the U.S. the NEC has no limit on the number of outlets per circuit for residential, some county's do or have had a limit based on the commercial limits of 180va per yoke or strap. since the question says 14 gauge wire we use 80% max draw or 12 amps. So the counties that impose this limit use 8 as the maximum for 15 amp circuits and 10 as the max for a 20 amp circuit, or this is how the county I live in did it until the last code cycle where they now use the NEC and there is not a limit to residential outlets. There is an example in the code book that shows 10 outlets on a 15 and 13 on a 20 because they were allowed to use 100% but my county used to require the derate because the ampacity of the wire is supposed to be 125% for continuous loads or loads that are running for 3 hours or longer.

In a residence the code does not dictate the number of receptacles that are allowed on one 14-guage 15-Amp circuit.  It is based upon the number of square feet the circuit/receptacles is planned to cover in the house.  The code allows an unlimited number of receptacles on a limited area of 550-sq feet.  A home that has 1800 square feet of living space is required to have at least four circuits for general purpose lighting, the receptacles are included in this considered lighting load.


What's the minimum depth that an electrical box can recess into a finished wall? Does it have to be flush? Do electrical boxes have to be flush to the finished surface?  Can they recess any depth into the wall by as much as 1/8" or 1/4"?

Edit:  I appreciate everyone offering alternative solutions to making a non-flush, already-installed box flush to the finish, but remember that I am looking for an objective answer regarding whether or not the box has to be flush to the wall.  This is new work, so if I can get by with having it recess into the wall by 1/8" or 1/4" then I will do so.  Otherwise, I will have to alter my plans.

They make box extenders (an example is depicted below) that can be used to extend boxes to meet the finished surface.

The 2014 NEC says...

ARTICLE 314
Outlet, Device, Pull, and Junction Boxes;
Conduit Bodies; Fittings; and Handhole Enclosures
314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material,
boxes employing a ﬂush-type cover or faceplate shall be installed so
that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or
listed extender will not be set back of the ﬁnished surface more than
6 mm (1⁄4 in.). In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other
combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings,
or listed extenders shall be ﬂush with the ﬁnished surface or project
therefrom.

This might also be relevant.

406.4 Receptacle Mounting. Receptacles shall be mounted in boxes or assemblies designed for the purpose, and such boxes or assemblies
shall be securely fastened in place unless otherwise permitted
elsewhere in this Code.
(A) Boxes That Are Set Back. Receptacles mounted in boxes that are set back from the finished surface as permitted in 314.20 shall be
installed such that the mounting yoke or strap of the receptacle is
held rigidly at the finished surface.

All you have to do is use a cheap plastic nail on box, cut the plastic off that holds the nail, and fasten it with 2 drywall screws from the inside of the box.


How to seal hardwood floor in preparation of self-leveling compound? I'm planning to float laminate over my existing floor, but need to level it first. The floor area is very large, so it spans areas of the home that have differing subfloor materials: concrete, hardwood oak, and plywood. My plan is to use self-leveling compound across all the subfloor materials to make them consistent, level and flat. However, in order to pour the compound, I read the wood areas need to be sealed first with a primer.

Home Depot sells "LevelQuik Advanced Acrylic Primer" for sealing OSB or Exterior Grade Plywood, but this product does not work with hardwood flooring like oak; I confirmed this by calling the manufacturer.

At this point, I'm not sure how to seal my oak floor in order to pour self-leveling compound on top of it. Is it possible? I'd like to avoid ripping up the oak floor and replacing it with OSB or Exterior Grade Plywood, so it can then be sealed and leveled.

I used a self leveling compound to level my bathroom floor. It trowels on and was recommended to go over linoleum. Stuck like glue but had to be sanded a little to level properly. I think it would work on hardwood as well. Sorry can’t remember the name but bought it at Lowe’s. I think it was m 50 something in a green can.