Will a cement mixer extend the working life of mortar? I'm going to do some brickwork on my own.  Last time it was quite the job to mix up mortar and get it laid before it started to go off (I know, working in pairs would be helpful!).  I know I can extend the working life of mortar a bit by making a looser slurry (at the expense of some strength), can I also keep my mortar workable for longer by continually agitating it in a cement mixer?  If so, how much longer is it likely to remain workable - just a couple of minutes, or indefinitely?

A mixer might help you mix smaller batches more quickly, so that you can easily adjust the size of a batch and keep up. But most mixers will make you think you should be making an even larger batch, and that's not a great plan.
It won't perform magic, and trying to extend the working time of cement products is heading down a road that is better left untravelled. Far better to sort whatever you need to sort to make small batches accurately and make more of them.
Without knowing what method you were using, you may be better served by a proper mortar hoe that has two big holes in the blade to promote mixing than a mixer, since your problem was having too much mortar mixed up to get through. A beneficial side effect of smaller batches is that they are easier to hand-mix.
I recall being instructed to make sure the mixing pan and tools were cleaned between each batch, to prevent the partially set earlier batch from speeding up the set of the next batch.
If you just want to extend the working life, then chilling everything (water, sand, cement) will slow the reaction somewhat. Chilling only one part (water being easiest) will slow it somewhat less, as the rest of the materials will bring the temperature back up, and the reaction itself is exothermic. But mixing only the right-sized batch for your rate of work is easier. I use a scale that reads in grams when I mix tile mortar and grout, working by myself on fussy small tiles. I can't possibly get through a whole bag at a time within the working time, and I don't even try. –

Adding more water will not make your mortar weaker. It will take longer to dry but once fully cured it will have similar strength. To keep your mix workable for longer you can either add a plasticizer or cover your mix with a thick plastic. This will slow down the drying process so your mix will remain workable for longer. Make sure the plastic is as sealed as possible to avoid air/wind getting under. This is also recommended for mortars & renders once laid. Slowing down the drying process reduces the chance of shrinkage cracking and allowing the mortar to cure slowly hence achieving maximum strength.


Why has my 10 year old ceiling fan suddenly started shocking me through the fan pull chain? My fan has been working fine for ten years now and suddenly if I’m barefoot and touch the metal pull chain it lightly shocks me, but does not if I have shoes on.
Does this mean I need a new fan or is it some electrical issue in my ceiling?

DANGER!!!
This sounds like a ground fault. They are particularly dangerous if you get wet, which is why Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters have been required for many years in kitchens and bathrooms, among other places.
If you have shoes on, you are insulated from the floor. Without shoes, a little bit of electricity makes its way from the fan through you to the floor. A little bit of electricity can be fatal if it passes through your heart, so this is a serious problem.
Why would a fan suddenly have this problem? Hard to say for sure, but anything with moving parts can have a small problem - e.g., a moving part of the motor rubbing on insulation - eventually become a big problem.
As much as we all like to have things last "forever", the reality is that many appliances, small and large, typically last in the range of 10 - 15 years. Sometimes, as with televisions and other electronics, they become obsolete. But with many other devices they simply wear out.
While the problem may be repairable, unless this is a high-end fan I don't think it is worth the effort and the risk of not quite fixing it correctly. This is particularly the case since fans are normally hardwired but not on GFCI, so there is no easy "early warning system" as there would be if you simply plugged it into a GFCI receptacle.

In that situation you should turn off the power going to your room at the breaker before even touching the thing, you will need an electrician to fix the problem.


How to drain a free standing bathtub I have a freestanding bathtub to be installed on a bathroom with concrete floor that will be tilled.

There were no instructions with the bathtub and the company doesn't really care (Brazil has terrible customer service for some stuff). The drain points straight down and is 40mm in diameter.

I can't use a 90° bend because that would press against the floor because the height will be greater than that of the feet.

I can try to drain directly below, but I'm not sure what is the best course of action. Have a standing pipe just a bit larger than the bathtub drain pipe for the bathtub drain to slide into? Making it some what hard fixed into the floor.

Have a shorter standing pipe (some 30 mm above the floor) the same diameter of the bathtub drain and use a rubber union to join then? More flexible, less chance of some breakage.

Have a dry floor drain (100mm diameter and some 50 mm deep) just below the bathtub drain and make it drain to the shower trap? Greater flexibility on positioning, but will it overflow?

What do you suggest in this scenario?

First & foremost you need a Freestanding Tub Drain Kit, no regular piping will work. These drains are extremely tight 90's & will leave space above the floor.

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Then, you need either a trap in the floor of the drain you have available in the area where you want the tub. If there's no trap & you'd rather not rip up the floor. Then, you can put the tub on a platform for just the tub or for that whole side of the bathroom. This can also allow you to face the tub in your preferred position.

If it where me I would install a narrow drain in the tub with a lint filter in the bottom given you have a wet room.  I have seen this in France and it honestly is quite useful.  It is virtually impossible to cleanout a pipe well that is stuck in concrete so getting things before it goes down makes sense.


What electrical work can I do legally in New Brunswick, Canada? I've just moved in my first house a few weeks ago, a new construction, and there is a couple  outlets that I want to add and some that I want to move. I'm located in New Brunswick, Canada. There doesn't seem to be any electrical by-laws in my municipality/city, so I assume that I can follow the provincial laws. The provincial act can be found here: http://laws.gnb.ca/en/showpdf/cr/84-165.pdf

First question, there's a couple of data outlets that are not exactly where I need them, that I assume that I don't need any permit/license. They're Cat3/Cat5/Coax combo. I also want to add in an HDMI outlet at the back of the TV mount in the living room that goes down where my amp/HDMI switch is. Since these are all data outlets, I assume I don't need a permit or a license to do that work?

I also have two places where I'd like to add electrical outlets. For example, there's an electrical outlet behind the TV mount, but none down where I'd like my amp, can I just cut out a hole in the drywall, add a box, and fish a wire down from the existing outlet? Is this considered changing/modifying the circuits?

The the provincial act, near the bottom of the document, there's a section for "qualified persons". So it sounds like if you kinda know what you're doing, you can maintain your circuits. However, adding outlets sounds more like modifying the circuits.

According to the wiring permit laws, it seems like you only need a permit if you're going to change more than 10 outlets and/or you're dealing with more than 5kw of load.

I'm more worried about my insurances than anything else. I know what I'm doing, but if I do make a mistake, and there's an electrical fire, I don't want to void my insurance claim.

Can anyone enlight me?

Here is the answer I got:

1)  First we have three types of installation as define by the definition in the Regulation 84-165.

  “type I installation” means the installation and repair of branch circuits, devices, motors and appliances on existing type II installations, including domestic ranges, water heaters and clothes dryers, but no alteration or addition, except for the installation of a domestic range, water heater or clothes dryer, shall exceed ten outlets or a total of five kilowatts;(installation de type I)

  “type II installation” means any electrical installation not exceeding two hundred amperes having a single phase supply of power less than three hundred volts between any two wires but possessing no features attributable to a type III installation;(installation de type II)

  “type III installation” means any electrical installation having one or more of the following features:(installation de type III)
      (a) requiring a three phase supply of power;
      (b) requiring a supply voltage exceeding three hundred volts between any two wires;
      (c) having a service entrance installation exceeding two hundred amperes in current capacity

2) Then the regulation 84-165 10(1) says that you must be an electrical contractor with a group 3 or 2 licence to do any electrical work on these type of installation.

  10(1)No person shall undertake to carry out
      (a) a type III installation unless he is the holder of a valid Electrical Contractors Licence Group 3 issued or renewed under this Regulation, or
      (b) a type II installation or a type I installation unless he is the holder of a valid Electrical Contractors Licence Group 3 issued or renewed under this Regulation or a valid Electrical Contractors Licence Group 2 renewed under this Regulation.

3) Also the regulation 84-165 11(1) says that you must have a valid N.B. electricians licence to work on an electrical installation.

  11(1)No person shall make, repair or maintain an electrical installation unless he is authorized by
      (a) a valid Electricians Licence Class 3 issued or renewed under this Regulation,
      (b) a valid Electricians Licence Class 2 renewed under this Regulation, or
      (c) a valid Industrial Electricians Licence issued or renewed under this Regulation.

4) So to summarize all this you must be a licence electrician working for an electrical contractor to performed any electrical installation or repair in the province of N.B. even replacing rec.,light switches, light fixtures etc.

As for the data/communication, it doesn't fall under DPS jurisdiction, so we can legally do anything data, phone or coax, which I wouldn't see why not.

The electrical inspector in my area (Southwest New Brunswick) informed me that a licensed electrician is even required to drill holes in studs, floor joists etc. and if a carpenter does it, it's illegal.


What is the correct way to share a washing machine receptacle with a printer? I live in the U.S. in a townhome (not free standing) built in 2012.

I want to put a laser printer in the laundry room and use the outlet currently occupied by the washing machine. It's a designated circuit for the washer; the double-pole breaker in the box is 30A. -- I'm sorry, I have no idea where I got the idea it was a big breaker like that, I must have been looking at the dishwasher breaker and got it confused.

The washing machine circuit is 20A, single pole.

The sticker on the washer says it's 10A 120V 60Hz.

The laser printer says it's 110-120V, 50/60Hz and 9A.

It's a standard U.S. 3-prong outlet with a little notch off the left prong (which is not used by the washer).

So, can I just use a standard outlet splitter or do I need to consider the power draw or some other effects?

Washing machines require dedicated circuits. This code excerpt implies that the only receptacle available for a washing machine should be the one that the appliance itself is plugged into.

  210.10(C)(2) Laundry Branch Circuits. In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least one
  additional 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided to supply the
  laundry receptacle outlet(s) required by
  210.52(F). This circuit shall have no other outlets.

Source: 2008 NEC, the latest version I have, but I know this requirement has not changed meaningfully since then.

In general, any high-powered AC motor or electrical heating element (washing machine, refrigerator, garbage disposal, dishwasher, microwave, etc.) should be on a dedicated circuit. These tend to draw a lot of amps, and AC motors spike above their typical current draw when starting because they have to charge some pretty big capacitors. For example, an AC motor that draws 12 amps might spike at 18 amps when starting. If you already have a load on that circuit, you may trip a breaker (maybe not - they do not necessarily trip because of a momentary spike - and the circumstances that cause them to trip is a little more complex. Best not to tempt fate).

The correct thing to do here is one of the following:

Use a different circuit that is available in that location.
Run another circuit for the printer. As laser printers can also cause a current spike and I have actually seen them (personal experience) cause lights to fade momentarily, a dedicated circuit for one is not a bad idea, even if it is not required.
Plug into another circuit elsewhere in the house, possibly using an extension cord to move the printer where you want it as Iggy suggests. I recommend using a heavy-duty extension cord capable of carrying whatever current the printer requires over the full length of the extension cord. Too often I see people use dinky little extension cords that work fine for lamps, but will overheat under high loads such as with laser printers, power tools, yard equipment, etc. If the extension cord is exposed at all, you also want it to be durable to avoid damage. Personally, I only buy heavy-duty outdoor-rated extension cords capable of carrying 15 or 20 amps, even for indoor uses.

If I were you, I'd invest in a Uninterruptible Power Supply(UPS) here. The washer might put a serious drain on the outlet and drop the power momentarily. A UPS will protect against both surges and undervolts. There's nothing more annoying than an interrupted print job.


How do I tell if a pipe running through a cinder block wall is leaking? I ran a cpvc pipe through a cinder block exterior wall to put a spigot in. I don't really have access to the inside of that painted cinder block wall where the pipe enters the cinder block. It just got really cold here and I forgot to cut the supply of water to the spigot from the inside cut off. I turned on the spigot and nothing came out. The spigot is sealed around it with caulk.

Basically I think my pipe froze and thawed but I'm not seeing any signs of leaking. How can I know if it is actually leaking?

Turn off all faucets, and devices in the home that might use water. This includes, but is not limited to ice makers, dishwashers, clothes washers,  faucets, running toilets, etc.

Use a little piece of tape, one of those "sign here" stickers, or something similar to mark the water meter reading (or if it's digital, just write down the reading).  Don't use any water for an hour or two, then go back and check the meter.  If it's changed, you either have a leak, or forgot to turn something off that used water.

Looking for water signs or using your ears to discover leaks are highly unreliable methods. I would suggest that you hire a contractor to test it. Maybe it costs more money but when it comes to leaking pipes you really shouldn't spare money, and really it’s not that expensive. What he does: he empties the pipes and then fills them with pressured air and put measurer on one and of the pipe. After day or so I forgot if the pressure is lower than originally you have a leak. Rest is easy. :)


Do disconnect breakers have to be the same brand of breaker as in the main panel? I have a cutler hammer breaker box with a cutler hammer breaker that will be fed to a disconnect box with a GFCI before going to the hot tub. Does the disconnect box necessarily have to be a cutler hammer brand with cutler hammer breakers. I wouldn't think so but want to be sure.

Generally, the breaker has to match the manufacturer of the box. But you do not need to match manufacturers between separate boxes.

There is no code in the NEC that requires you to use matching breaker to the panel box.  Generally there are some that are universal.  i.e.  Square D Homeline, GE, many Siemens, Murry, ITE and others.  A few are brand specific...i.e. Square D QO series, Cuttler Hammer Tan Handles.  But you may certainly use an ITE breaker in a Murry panel...and so on.

But to answer your question.  No you can use any brand disconnect box that you so desire.


Can I use a 50 amp GFCI breaker on 15 amp circuit? I am in the process of changing my hottub over to wood heat. I have eliminated all controls and am running the pump directly from the panel on a double 15 amp breaker (240 volts). I have my existing spa pack 50 amp GFCI breaker. Can I still use it, or do I need a lower amperage breaker?

The 2 15 amp breakers are in the main panel. I am using 12 gauge wire from the panel to the pump. However, I have to add a GFCI before the pump.

Yes, you can use this.

GFCI breakers combine two different functions into one device.  The circuit breaker function of the device is rated for 50 amps.  However, because your 15 amp breaker is upstream from the GFCI, your circuit is protected at 15 amps, and will trip at 15 amps if there is a fault either before or after your GFCI.

The GFCI function on the GFCI breaker is not related to the 50 amp rating.  This will trip if there is a ground fault after the GFCI breaker.

As long as you size your main breaker correctly, you can use this GFCI breaker at the local disconnect for the spa.

See this article for more details on wiring a spa: SpaDepot: Wiring a Hot Tub

Without knowing the wiring gauge, it is not recommended to use a larger breaker. The breaker should be sized to the wire gauge and circuit load. You do not want to overload your wiring and risk damage (melted insulation, or even possibly a fire).


What's the practical difference between "latex" and "acrylic" water dispersion paint? I see lots of water dispersion paints in shops and they usually come in two flavors - "latex" and "acrylic". The application range and procedure seem the same, they are all relatively safe, don't emit anything toxic while drying, prices are more or less the same.

What's the practical difference and how do I choose?

There actually is no difference between latex and acrylic paints because there is no latex in latex paints. Let me explain. All water based paints today are referred to as "latex", even though there is absolutely no latex rubber in the formula. Latex has become a generic label. The stain, water resistance and covering capabilities are achieved by using acrylic resins or vinyl . Better quality paints have more acrylic resins than vinyl.  Paints with a higher percentage of acrylic resin cost more. Vinyl is much cheaper than acrylic and is often used to mix with the acrylic to keep the cost of the paint lower. If you have special needs that may require a superior or better adapted product, the best advise is to go to a professional paint store and discuss your situation with someone that can explain the chemistry and applications of better products.

There are many water based "100% acrylic" "Latex" paints. I use them in the form of exterior porch and floor enamel. I don't really know what 100% acrylic means, except it's more expensive, and, in my experience, higher quality - more durable, lasts longer, sticks better.


Does lowering the regulator setting of fan minimize electricity usage We have ceiling fans with "regulators" that allow us to control the speed of the fan, so does reducing speed of the fan translate into power savings rather than heat dissipation in the control element?

In general, yes slower speeds use less power.  The fan motors typically are synchronous AC motors and use different windings or capacitors on the motor to create different speeds.  There isn't a "dimmer" circuit or resistor speed control when you use the pull chain switch.

If you try to use a dimmer switch instead to change the speed that isn't designed for fans the quality of the power (power factor) can drop which can lead to additional inefficiencies.


Flooring multiple rooms The photo attached shows both vinyl/ laminate flooring and carpet. My plan is to rip out carpet and install new vinyl flooring right on top of existing hardwood floors. Once I rip out carpet the carpet room won't be same height. Is the best option T- molding or 3/4 osb subfloor or just ripping out the old hardwood? Using the same vinyl through out the house and think it would look better with no T-mold.

Generally even luxury vinyl plank has expansion requirements and typically sets maximum room widths.  You'd probably end up with a T molding separating the rooms.  Now if you are asking about a reducing molding that steps down to a different floor height then I'd try to avoid that.

Check the instructions on your specific product to see what maximum they specify sometimes you can go over the maximum by increasing the room left for expansion in which case maybe you can avoid a molding entirely which is going to be the best look.

What installation type are you planning? floating or glue down?

If it’s hardwood underneath just refinish it.


What goes on threads first: tape or dope? Should the dope be applied directly to the male threads or should the tape go on first?

If you're using both, the tape would go on first. Which is immediately evident, if you've ever tried to apply them the other way round.  There's open debate over whether or not there are any advantages to using both products together, or if each product by itself is adequate.
Pipe dope
Pipe dope; also known as pipe joint compound, is used to seal and lubricate the threads of a threaded pipe joint.  It's available for both water and gas lines. It's applied by simply brushing it on the male threads of the pipe joint, before the joint is fit together. Pipe dope never hardens, and will not crumble and fall out of the joint.

Teflon Tape Dope
Teflon Tape dope; also known as polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) Tape, or thread seal tape, is also used to seal and lubricate the threads of a threaded pipe joint.  It's available in high-density and low-density flavors, for water and gas pipe.  PTFE tape is applied by wrapping it in a clockwise direction, around the male threads of the threaded joint. PTFE tape is available in color coded versions (pink for water, yellow for gas), as well as the common white variety.

I find that on pvc fittings if tape is used it can crack the female fitting .I use dope only on pvc and tighten only as needed .not saying it should not be done but I find a tendency for that to happen


What is the proper term for a latch that uses a loop and lever to draw things together? In this answer I advised the OP to use what I called a 'toggle latch' or 'draw latch'. Do these things have a proper name?

In the U.S. the item you refer to is most often called a draw catch. There are other names, depending on manufacturer and purpose, but I worked 19 years in commercial and residential hardware supply and we always called that a draw catch.


Need to calculate load ratings for DIY wooden storage shelving I'm trying to figure out the max load ratings for some shelving at our shop.

It is 2x4's pine that spans 4 feet across and 30" deep with 2x4's as joists and angled 2x4's for support for each section. Then the 4 foot sections are fastened together in succession. They aren't currently mounted to anything, they can't be to a wall where they currently are sitting (electrical room and needs spacing in front of electrical panels) but will be fasted to the floor.

Thanks, Matt.

To calculate the max load, you need to check the capacity of each piece and identify which one will fail first, in other words whatever has the lowest capacity is your max capacity. In some cases, you'll have load spread across multiple pieces, e.g. each of the decking boards will carry some of the load for the shelf and send half, give or take, to each side. This will all depend on how the load is distributed on the shelf itself, and it's a good idea to be conservative and assume someone places a heavy item on a single side and on a single board.

To start, you can check the weight bearing of a 2x4 turned on it's side for the two sides, and know the capacity can't exceed double that (since there are two sides, but I'd be conservative and assume all the load was applied towards a single side). Next, you can run a similar calculation on the 2x4 decking where the boards are turned flat and over a longer span. This will likely be a smaller rating per board and you'll have to decide how conservative you want to be with the load spread over multiple boards. The next piece of structure you have are the verticals which have to support all of the shelves down to the floor. This is compressive force where the 2x4 is strongest, but you'll want to run this calculation to be sure. Lastly, and where I and CoAstroGeek both suspect you have your weak point, you have the fasteners attaching the sides to the verticals. If those are simple nails, they have a small shear force compared to bolts and could also pull out if there's a sag in the decking.

When looking at how much weight each point can support, don't forget to include the load that's already there from the shelves themselves. So for the horizontal sides of the shelf, they need to support the weight of the 2x4 decking. And the vertical supports running to the floor have their share of 3 decks and sides.

Of course the practical method to calculate the max load is to get some weights and load up a unit until it fails, and then see how much it took before it broke. Or if you don't want to destroy a shelf, use the weights to double check your calculations once you believe you know a safe capacity. It's better to test the shelves when you are being extra safe and expecting a failure than when workers are being careless and a failure could injure someone.

Lastly, I agree with CoAstroGeek's concerns about the lack of diagonal bracing along the long axis, this could easily rack and collapse under a light load if any lateral force is applied.

Well as stout as this is I would say calculate the load capacity of your floor joists if it is going inside other than that I'd say I'd feel comfortable storing anything I can think of on it


Can I extend the ground/bus bar in a main service to accomodate subpanel equipment ground? I am about to replace the main service breaker panel in my house.  The old panel (a 200amp Siemens 40-circuit) had bus bars that extended the entire vertical length of the box.  The new panel I would like to install (A Square D QO) has doubled up bus bars that only come down about 30% of the length of the box.

The problem is, this box feeds a 100-amp sub-panel, whose wire comes in from the bottom of the box.  For the old install, the large (#2 I believe) ground wire feeding the sub-panel is connected at the very bottom of the bus bar.  Unfortunately, in the new panel, it will not reach the shorter bus bars.

Will the code allow me to add a ground bus bar to connect the sub-panel ground to?  There are threaded bus bar holes near the bottom of the breaker box that would be within reach of the large ground wire.  If so, what do I use to bond the additional ground bus bar to the main ground bus bar?

Yes, you can add an insulated ground bar in the can (you should be able to get one specifically designed for your particular can, but here's what they look like):

.. and then connect it to the other ground bar using a piece of #4 AWG (solid bare copper, or stranded THHN insulated) assuming you're still at 200 amps. This guarantees that the green bonding screw that's actually bonding your neutral on the other bar will affect both bars if it is removed. It's common to add these for isolated grounds, where they're connected to a different ground altogether instead of the other bar.

Note - the one you buy may come with its own bonding screw, and the appropriate tapped hole to receive it - so check for that prior to connecting the two together (IOW, read the installation notes that came with it).

Adding onto a bus bar sounds like a really bad idea if you don't have the exact hardware it was designed to be done with.  Wouldn't it be easier to replace the wire that feeds the pony panel with a longer run, running the new ground all the way up to the existing bus bar?  You'd probably want a piece of 2/3 with an insulated ground.


Tandem/twin circuit breakers installed where not allowed? I decided to read the panel's diagram today and IF I understand it correctly, you can only use tandem/twin breakers in designated slots.  Referring to the diagram, it looks to me like circuits 11-17 on left can use them, but 1-7 can't.  However, if you look at the picture of the box's breakers, you'll see there are twins where they shouldn't be, like circuits 1 & 3.

Am I reading this correctly?  If not, could someone please set me straight?  If I am reading this correctly, then how "bad" is it?  Even though I plan to get an electrician's recommendation on replacing the panel (because it appears they no longer make those breakers), I want to know.  Perhaps it affects the load balance on the neutral vs hots?  (It seems odd to me they didn't key them so you couldn't use one where it wasn't allowed).

I'm adding a hi-res pics of the panel & some of the spare breaker.
Thanks,

Jim

The existing tandems are of the correct model for this panel...
Your existing panel appears to be a very old GE panel, of a style that predates the current THQP half-width GE breaker, as well as the formal introduction of Circuit Total Limiting panels.  These ancient panels use type TR tandem breakers instead, and the spare breaker you photographed indeed is a type TR, in addition to looking identical from the face.
...but are indeed misplaced
This means that while the panel labeling only permits tandems in certain slots, neither the breakers nor the panel are keyed to enforce that, and thus you can get your current situation, where the installer slapped tandem breakers in wherever convenient.  This, while not an issue at the moment, can lead to problems with heat down the road if more tandems get shoved in there, stuffing the panel beyond its 20-circuit limit.  This is possible if 240V or multi-wire branch circuits are present, as those mean that the number of neutrals will not match the number of hots, rendering the 20-hole limit on the neutral bar irrelevant.
A millstone about your neck, if ye wish to keep it
Furthermore, the age of this panel means that it is one of the few cases where new production breakers of the labeled type are not compatible with the panel's busbar system. In other words, if you bought new-make GE THQL breakers for this panel, expecting them to fit and work, you'll be in for a major disappointment, as they likely won't even fit, as per this DIYChatroom post (pertinent parts quoted below for posterity):

GE changed the way they set the breaker's seating height. In my panel, you push the breaker down until the top of the molded slot rests on the stab. TQL breakers, THQL Issue UOxxx (probably MJxxx, NExxx and others too), and also Siemens QP and Eaton BR, can work this way, because they all have the same slot profile.
Recent panels have a ridge of insulating material next to the stab; the bottom of the breaker's case rests on the ridge. The stab is not as tall. It doesn't penetrate the breaker as deep. All the above breakers (except TQL which somehow doesn't quite fit) can be mounted. Also Issue RT-xxx of THQL, which doesn't fit the old bus because it can't accommodate the tall stab. Issue RT-xxx is all you will find in retail stock.

This means that your breaker selection is limited to NOS (new old stock) THQL breakers of Issues that will fit the panel, which is a dicey source of breakers at best, or to Eaton CL breakers that have been UL classified for use in GE panels (among others).  However, while the latter can be obtained reliably from any electrical supply house that deals in Eaton products, the UL classification process limits you to a small subset of possibilities.  Namely, using CL breakers limits you to a maximum of 50A branch circuits, and means you can't get double-stuff breakers, two-pole arc or ground-fault breakers, dual-function (arc fault/ground fault) breakers, or other exotica for your panel, either.
Nonetheless, if you wish to keep this panel, you can, provided it is in good condition on the inside still.  You'll have to rearrange this panel so that the double-stuff breakers are in slots designated for them, though, and replace that BR120 that currently sits in the bottom left with an Eaton CL120.  Note that you'll want to keep the spare TR breaker if you do this, too, as they are extremely difficult to find nowadays, since they have not been made in roughly half a century or so.
Replacement options
If you do decide to blow the money and replace this panel, you have a couple of options.  First, you could replace the whole panel with a 100A, 24-space or 30-space, main breaker panel.  This gives you a brand new panel, of a manufacturer of your choice, and plenty of room for future expansion as well.  Note that you'll have to replace the breakers wholesale to go with this panel swap, which may mean you have to put AFCIs in.
The other option would be to use a retrofit interior kit (mostly an Eaton thing, although Siemens now offers a retrofit interior as well) to replace the existing bus structure in the panel.  This would also require a wholesale breaker replacement, and requires costlier parts than replacing the panel outright, but has the advantage that the existing enclosure (cabinet) can be left in place.  This is useful if removing the old cabinet is impractical, something that is often the case for flush-mounted panels, or if rigid conduits come into the panel from both sides or the top and bottom.

Shared neutrals are not allowed per NEC Code . Piggy back breaks with shared neutrals are phasing two circuits on one neutral conductor. Example is look at a piggy back breaker using a shared neutral conductor the discoloring of brown or black of the insulated neutral where conductor is terminated.


How to mix a resurfacer/leveler with sand and cement? Disclaimer: No, I can't buy ready made surface leveler, because in Brazil this doesn't exist.

I need to use a resurface a dry pack levelling that my previous contractor made a lousy job (porous surface here and there and a few cracks, but it seem well adhered). He is not answering my calls and I'm not calling anyone else to fix something this small.

Everytime I mixed sand and cement I always got a headache on getting the right mix or the right type of sand (in Brazil there are at least 4 different types of sand: coarse, medium, fine, and washed, most from river beds).

What would be a good recipe for a resurfacer, also, I should use bonding agent, right?

Roughen all areas to be resurfaced, remove any loose or unstable material. Dry mix 5 parts fine sand to 1 part portland cement. Moisten entire area to be resurfaced. Add small amounts of water, a little bit at a time, and thoroughly mix until entire batch is damp. For initial dry-pack, proper mix should hold as a clump if you squeeze together in your hand, but easily come apart if you break it up. For your resurfacing purpose, it could be a bit wetter but not liquidy. Spread out and pack firmly into area in question with a wood float, use the wood float to feather the edges of the repair into existing surface. Use a spray bottle to moisten as needed while you float it out. Screed or float out as level as you need it to be but the surface does not have to be super smooth.

Apply water-proofing membrane, then apply additional treatments (float regular cement on top of membrane then install tile?). Drypack is most often used to establish initial slope for the surface, not for applying final finish treatment to.

The following recipe might work better (but can take days to dry).

1 part latex paint,
1 part cement,
1 part water,
4 parts fine sand.

Latex paint adds polymers to the cement which will reduce shrinkage and help maintain it's originial form.

Source: http://www.ehow.com/how_4516234_mix-latex-paint-concrete.html


Do I need return air ducting to a new upstairs furnace? I am ripping my entire house apart and will be making almost an entire wall out of windows and doors,(glass). I will be changing all of the floor plans, (walls), so at the moment I am adding HVAC to the upstairs. I want to install a furnace upstairs, along with an electrical sub-panel. I plan on making a separate "mechanical s" room for the furnace and electrical, which will be placed in the center of the existing chimney. I plan on installing exposed spiral ducting down the center of the upstairs vaulted ceiling.
Do I need to run  cold air return ducting back to this secondary furnace? Can I have a gap on the bottom of all doors, instead of running ducting?
Thank You

A Manual D load calculation will give you each room's airflow and return air path requirements. Those return air paths can be provided by dedicated return ducts, jump-ducts, or undercut doors. Undercut doors represent the least desirable approach because the amount of airflow that can pass under a door is about 50 CFM per inch, and a one inch undercut is pretty big but 50 CFM may not come close to the airflow going into the room. A one inch undercut also creates privacy concerns and may look just plain ugly.

By far the superior solution if you don't want to use dedicated return air ducting is to use jump ducts that allow air to pass through common walls and into the central hallway, and then you can have your simple central hallway return. The preferred approach is to do the ducts through the wall, not over the ceiling, which would put them in the unconditioned attic.

I am assuming you did a Manual J calculation to size the equipment correctly and determine whether or not a second furnace needed in the first place, right? And that you did the calculation with the assumption that all air sealing and insulation work were done first so when when you eventually do them later, this equipment won't be hugely oversized and create comfort problems, right? And that the results of this calculation convinced you that a second ducted furnace was actually required and cost-effective vs a single unit with zoning, a mini-ducted mini-split heat pump, or a series of ductless mini-split heat pumps? And that you were able to find a furnace with a small enough output that it won't short-cycle all season?

The reason why I ask is that if the answers to most or all these questions are all "No", then it's time to go back to the drawing board, because you could be setting yourself up for disappointment.

You can have a centrally located Return Air grille and raise the bottom of the doors to have 1.5" or so off the finished floor or carpeting.


What is the name of this plumbing U wedge + connection The two black pipes pictured below are connected, and a U-shaped wedge is placed between them, apparently to close the connection.

What is the name of this connection or this wedge?

I will subsequently google the name you provide to look for how I can open the joint and reseal it.

I don’t think a seal failure is the issue, that leak seems to be from where that U clamp holds the joint together.

I suggest you need to replace the whole joint so a section of pipe and two joints will be needed.


In a multi-gang box, are neutral wires paired with specific hot wires? I have a four-gang box that I'm installing new dimmers in.  Currently all of the neutral (white) wires coming into the box are connected together (and not to the dimmers).  The new dimmers require connections to the neutrals.

There are three bundles of wires coming into the box, two of them having their own triads of hot, neutral, and ground.  The third bundle has two triads of hot, neutral, and ground wires.

In this third bundle, it's unclear which neutral is paired with which hot.  Does this matter when connecting my new dimmer or can the dimmer be connected to any random pair of neutral and hot wires?

This is a single circuit, and the neutral is common to all branches of this circuit. In this case, all neutral wires in this box must be connected together.

Similarly (and this is regardless of single or multiple circuits/breakers) all grounds must be connected to each other, as well as to the box itself.

In the case of your switches, they simply need a neutral to operate the electronics in the switch itself. All you need to do is wire the neutral to each switch. You'll probably have to add pigtails, and probably additional wire nuts (purely for convenience).

Just to illustrate, using your schematic, I added the neutral lines (my changes highlighted in yellow):

The number and placement of wire nuts is not important, other than you need to pay attention to the number and size of wires when choosing wire nuts (they have a rating that will say how many wires of a given gauge they support).

Firstly, I am going to assume that the original wiring was done by a licensed electrician.  So called common wires (or neutral if you prefer) simply completes the circuit back to the panel.  If multiple circuits are going to a box all the grounds would be bound together, but the commons would be on a separate circuit so it sounds like you have just one circuit.  In your question you have used the word dimmers in the plural.  If this is on the same light you can't do that unless you are using a special set of dimmers designed to communicate electronically together and would come as a set with directions.  So I'll assume that the dimmers are controlling one light each and therefore are a single pole light dimmer.  The common white wire NEVER gets connected to a single pole switch.  Because there is no 3/1 cable (red, white and black wire with a ground) I am eliminating the possibility that you are dealing with a 3 way switch because at least one 3/1 cable is required unless your house is conduit which is usually wired with all black hots and tape markers.  3-way switches, which are used when there is one other location that you can turn the light on from, have many possibilities as to how they are wired depending on where the live hot wire is located i.e. the one that is always hot and leads directly back to the breaker panel.  If there is a 3-way circuit you should hire an electrician as they're tricky when you haven't done them before.  However, single pole switches under current electrical code are simple because they must be wired in line with the hot wire so the hot wire in is the black wire coming from the panel and the hot wire out goes to the light.  The only time that a switch should be connected to a white wire is if the wires are a switch leg which only occurs when the power goes directly to the box that the light fixture is attached to and the switch leg runs down to the single pole switch as a two wire bundle one white and one black.  If this were the case both wires would be connected to black at the light box and the white wire should be recoded by either black tape or permanent marker for the last two inches at each end.  So I think that the answer to your question is ignore the white wires and determine which hot wire goes to your light and which hot wire goes to the breaker panel and connect each to the appropriate screw on the switch.  Don't forget to connect the ground wire to the switch again assuming that this is plastic sheathed wire (NM or non-metallic) and plastic boxes.  Metal conduit wiring is grounded through the switch body and it is perfectly kosher to bring NM wire to metal box with the proper cable clamp and then connect the ground to the box with a screw.  Then all devices would be grounded through their body.


What's the minimum recommended compressor HP/PSI to spray paint? I have a little compressor that I use for a small brad nailer and blowing up tires. Is there a minimum PSI or horsepower that I need to be able to get to in order to spray paint with it?

Paint sprayers have a pretty low PSI requirement.  I'd be more concerned about the CFM (Cubic feet per minute) rating of your compressor.  That would indicate whether it can compress the air fast enough to keep up with the sprayer.

I paint with 22-26 PSI I have a 30gal 4hp air compressor


How to connect multiple light fixtures to one switch? I am remodeling my basement, currently I have 5 light fixtures and each one has its own switch.  I would like to make it so when I turn on the switch at the bottom of the stairs all the lights turn on.  I would also like to add several more light fixtures.  I am new to electrical work.  I have a solid background with framing and drywall.  The basement is not finished so I have great access to all ceiling joints and current fixtures.  I have been reading online about 2 wire nm.  I am curious though how you run wire to one fixture, hook it up, and then run the wire to the next fixture.

Basically, you want to start with a switch.  You run a black and white wire in from the bottom  of the switch box (from the panel).  This will take the form of 12/2 or 14/2 cable. You run another 12/2 or 14/2 cable from the top of the switch box to the first light. You connect the black wire to the switch.  You connect the 2 white wires together, and then connect the other terminal on the switch to the black wire of the cable leaving this junction box towards the first light.  The ground wire should also be connected together in this manner, but to the ground terminal on the switch.  Each light will have a cable "entering" (from the switch) and "exiting" (away from the switch).  At each light you'll connect the entering and exiting black wires together, as well as 1 terminal on the light.  Do the same with the white wires.  If there is a ground terminal on the light, do that as well, otherwise just connect the incoming and outgoing ground wires together.  At the last light, just connect the incoming black wire to 1 terminal on the light, and then connect the white wire to the other one.  This method is called wiring in parallel, so if one light blows, the current can still continue to the other lights to light them up.

Some other things to be aware of:

Most home wiring is either 12 or 14 gauge, corresponding to either a 20 amp or a 15 amp circuit, respectively.  The maximum "design capacity" is 80% of that.  Let's say you're using a 20 amp breaker with 12 gauge wire.  This circuit should run at no more than 16 amps.  Let's assume you're using 100 watt bulbs at 120 volts.  Using watts/volts = amps, for 600 watts/120 volts = 5 amps.  So this would work fine on a 15 amp breaker, depending on what else is on that circuit.  http://www.thecircuitdetective.com/ is also a superb reference for novice electricians to get an idea of how things work.

Something like this is what you're looking for the end result to be:

As a beginner myself, using a book, an electrician friend for advice, great caution and 1/2 brain, I wired a complete panel in my home, added garage lighting and several other circuits for appliances. I saved myself thousands of $ at the rate of $80-90 per hr electricians in our area.  Electricians went through much training and OJT in order to become licensed.  But like anyone in a trade that took much training, we often feel self inflated and feel that no one else can or should do our work unless they go through the same.  But the bottom line is, if its your home electrify away and don't worry about possessive electricians.  Just do it safely in order to protect yourself, family, others and property.  For the simple stuff like wiring a planel and adding circuits for switches/outlets its a breeze. Save yourself much money if your state allows you to do it on your own.


Is it safe to mix LEDs and incandescents in a chandelier? I've been having an issue for a while now where my chandelier light fixture installed with six Cree 60W LED replacement bulbs flickers when I raise my traditional dimmer to max brightness.  As I understand it, the reason for this flickering is because the Cree bulbs can not handle the high current induced by the dimmer. My budget is pretty small right now and I would like to avoid buying $25 led dimmers (since I have several fixtures with traditional dimmers that would need replacing).

So, one possible solution I was thinking of was to simply use one or two incandescent light bulbs in place of the LEDs to increase the resistance of the circuit and hopefully end the flickering issue.  My only concern with doing this is whether it will damage the LED bulbs in any serious way (I'm okay with any funny colors that may result).

Thanks.

The flicker is likely because your dimmer is indeed incompatible with LEDs -- it was designed to drive electronic low-voltage "transformers" used with 12V (typically halogen or low-voltage LED) lighting systems.  Switching to a dimmer made for CFL/LED or incandescent/halogen service should cure it.

There should be no issue mixing the bulbs, but not sure it will solve your problem. That type of dimmer is an electronic dimmer. That means it dims by turning the electricity on and off 100+ times a second (as opposed to an analog dimmer, that adds a giant resistor). Not all LEDs are set up for this. You may be able to solve the problem by just getting different LEDs. Lutron has a list of bulbs it marks as compatible with its dimmers:

http://www.lutron.com/technicaldocumentlibrary/3682066_CFL_LED_Bulb_list.pdf


Is a 200 amp panel adequate for my needs? I'm looking for feedback on my plan before I begin the panel replacement, so thanks for your input. I already have a permit and am allowed to do all the work myself as long as it passes 2014 NEC code upon inspection.

My primary goal is to remove the 60 yr old aluminum wire and replace with copper and upgrade the panel box replacing all breakers as every current breaker is some weird double breaker that has two flip switches and two circuits in every slot on the box. Not enough room in current box if removing all doubles for singles.

I'm done running new wire throughout the house and ready to shove the new home run wires to the new box, this is where i have uncertainty as I'm trying to future proof. I anticipate a second HVAC for the second floor (i live in the south and this is the standard now for getting the upstairs below 85 in summer). Thus, future box would have about 15 20AMP breakers, 4 50 AMP breakers (HVAC) 3 30 AMP (tankless water heater) one stove at 40 AMP and dryer at 30 AMP. (presently have 1 30 for tank water heater and a 70/50 for hvac, which is oversight from hvac replacement done last summer and should be 50/50). I have a 200 AMP service presently, if i require more the local company will run a second 200AMP line to the house.

Questions:

My Amperage total in these breakers is way over 200, i understand not all are used simultaneously such as AC/Heat, etc, but should i consider the upgrade to 400?
the HVAC and water heater are all in the crawlspace (in this area my crawlspace is 7ft tall with plenty of access space), I think it would be wise to run 1 25 ft #6 wire from the panel (or second 200 AMP service) using a 100AMP breaker and create a subpanel (or second panel entirely with service upgrade) then run #6 CU  wire to the HVAC and water heater, this would be 10-15ft for each. This excludes the second floor airflow handler that would eventually be in the attic- that is going to be directly above the main panel and would likely run it through that panel to keep wire distance shortest.
What am I overlooking?

---UPDATE---

Based on feedback, further research and opening up my panel box. I'm thinking I'll consider not replacing the panel as i have a 200 30/42 box, but several of these tandem breakers are not in proper slots so I can fix that while ripping out all the AL wire and putting in new breakers and CU- I may do away with most of them as they're unneeded if i do the subpanel. I still think a sub panel is a good idea given all the big stuff is centralized - even though that means a flipped breaker would be under the house...

New question, last time i was in the box replacing a breaker that was shooting sparks into the house i thought my main lines were copper, they clearly are not. an electrician friend thinks they look fine, but should i consider a CU replacement all the way to the meter?

on the left is my trial/error breaker description, on the right is a hole patch from previous owner, not sure what the reason was

First, the aluminum wire

In the 1960s, owing to a copper shortage, they rushed to market aluminum wire made from transmission line alloys, for 15-30A branch circuits.  Electricians used it with common receptacles and switches listed for Cu-only, and in the rush, nothing was properly tested. On top of that, the work was often badly performed because housing booms tend to draw from the bottom of the barrel skillwise.  I hardly need to tell you how that went: the things you saw were indeed your house almost burning down, and they were due to arcing.   There are two good fixes:

Tear it all out -- kill it with fire before it kills you with fire.
Feed it from AFCI breakers, which will detect and trip on arc faults before they melt insulation. Then at leisure move through the house, and either tear it out, or clean up all the terminations of every wire, using CO-ALR rated receptacles/switches and Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

As a backgrounder, copper has been commercially viable since 9000 BC, aluminum since 1950 thanks to smelting processes which use electricity.  Obviously Al arrived in an electrical system long built-out and with pre-existing stock of gear made for Cu-only.  The AA-1350 alloy, developed for steel-core transmission lines not small-wire terminations, was also a problem.  All done in a rush.

Regardless, it can be argued that Cu is the bad actor because it doesn't have a good elasticity range and likes to work-harden.  Al wire on Cu lugs doesn't work, but Cu wire on Al lugs works fine - as seen on Alumiconns, CO/ALR receptacles, and the lugs on your panel.  You need to get the torques right because of dissimilar metal expansion/contraction rates.  The right torque lets the Al flex and spring back as Cu changes size.

The new AA-8000 alloys are safe for 15-30A branch circuit wiring, but I won't use it because the inspector hates it, the buyer hates it, there's no cost savings, and it's too oddball.  Like a lot of people, I start looking at Al for 60A+ (#4-), the larger, the more likely.

Needed service

As I look at your numbers, first, on-demand water heat, awesome. Even better if it's several units near point of use, because then you're not paying or waiting for hot water to cross the house.  It's common for all-electric houses in the snowbelt to have 400A service.

I don't understand 4x50A for air conditioning. This seems like both too little and too much for a heat pump, the pump proper doesn't need 50 and the emergency heat usually needs more than 50.  Critical issue is which will be used at the same time. If you need to run 4x50A at once, you're gonna need a second service.

Subpanel

I think a subpanel is a great idea and I would go 200 or 225A. Stay with QO if you like, great commercial-tier panel type.  I would confer with the power company about where to locate this if it's to be the future main panel for a second service (keeping in mind one option is to put the main breaker outside as part of the meter pan, and feed this as a subpanel).  Set it up so you can do both:

For now, feed it with as you plan, a 100A or 125A breaker and correct size wire.
later, make it the "main" panel of the second service.

Spaces: You say nine 2-pole breakers (seems low, but alright, 18 spaces) plus you say 15 singles (but I count 18 singles in your panel already with the double-stuff's).

Using double-stuff breakers is bad news, especially on a panel with 3/4" wide breakers.  Most circuits are or will require AFCI or GFCI (and you want AFCI on any AL branch circuits).  Those don't come in double-stuff, not even on 1" breakers.

Now we're at 36 spaces optimistically, you have 30 now.  I would recommend at least a 30 space subpanel but given the small cost delta, I'd go 40 or 42.   40 is not unreasonable for a 200A service.

Existing panel

As far as the existing fat 200A aluminum wires, The lugs are aluminum. I would call the power company, have them pull the meter, inspect them at all ends for deterioration, clean 'em up, use the No-Ox.

Change the meter-panel run to Cu if it's really going to bother you.  Copper on an aluminum lug will work if you get the torques right.

What am I overlooking?   See the two large wires landed on the neutral lug and dissimilar metals to boot?  That is illegal, a recipe for disaster, and a lost neutral can do far more damage than a lost hot.  If the stranded Cu cable is your wire to your grounding electrode, that should go to your ground bus.  If you absolutely need both wires to land there, then get the correct lug for this, which has voids for 2 wires.

Nope. Try

Src GALCO

It sounds like you prefer running 6 AWG wire.  Paralleling is absolutely not allowed, you cannot run two #6's for 100A instead of one #1Al or #3Cu. If you want to keep your heavy-wire runs to a minimum, don't be bashful about putting the subpanel right next to the main panel. That is completely kosher.

For a short run, I'd be inclined to use copper (damn the dissimilar metals) because it will flex easier and be less likely to unclip the breaker.

The size of your main breaker should not be bigger than the capacity of the feed to the house will support.  If you think you need a larger main breaker than the feed to your house supports, you need to upgrade the electrical service coming into your house.  Do not just put in a larger main breaker based on the number and size of the circuits in your house.

If your current panel is 200 amps and your main breaker has never tripped, then a 200 amp main breaker is enough.  I ran my home with a 75 amp main breaker for many years, even with a whole house air conditioner and typical appliances (fridge/freezer, dishwasher, dehumidifier).  BTW, the main breaker handles 220v and the various circuits typically are 110 v, so the main breaker of 200 amp is really 400 amp.

Relatively few houses have a main breaker large enough to service all the circuits at max load.  So if you have 25 circuits each 20 am service you do NOT need a 500 amp main breaker.


How to add a gfci and surge protector to pool pump line? I want to add a gfci and surge protector to the 240v circuit for my pool pump. The 12 guage power wires (red and black) and ground (green) run from the corner of yard directly to the main breaker panel on the house, to a thin 20 amp double pole breaker.

I would like to add a small ‘sub panel’ in the corner and was figuring I would need a 20 amp double pole gfci breaker and a 20 amp double pole breaker for the surge protector. I would assume I hook the red wire to one feed and the black to the other, the green to the ground bus, snap in the gfci and run the red and black and ground to the 240v pump.

What do I do with the white neutrals from the gfci and surge protector? I am guessing they to the ground bus since the ground runs straight back to the main panel, but I would rather be sure than BBQ something, maybe myself.

Assuming that is good, I would also like to add another single pole 20 amp breaker to the sub-panel for a 110 outlet. Can I run the neutral wire for that circuit to the ground bus in the sub panel also?

Thank you!

Update: 6/4/16:
Thank ALL of you for your comments. I really do appreciate the great advice and am very grateful for the help. Please know that spending your time helping others makes a real difference :)

Revised plan, after your comments and reviewing Article 680 NEC:

(1) Install a 20 amp GFCI at the main breaker panel for the dedicated 240 line for the pool pump. Neutral wire from GFCI attaches to ground/neutral bus which is the same at the main.

(2) Add 240 Disconnect by pool pump.

(3) Add Intermatic PS3000 surge protector by connecting it to disconnect. Called Intermatic and they said I can just wire it at the Disconnect by connecting to the red and black 120 lines, and the surge protector neutral to the 240 ground. This seems to make sense since the 240 ground runs directly back to the main ground/neutral bus (let me if this was bad advice!)

(4) Use a separate 20 amp 110 circuit for pool light and accessories.

(5) Add a whole house surge protector at the main box (will require replacing panel since no more space).

Pool pump is about 75' from the main breaker and I have read it is better to have protection at the main panel and also at the equipment. The new pump is a Pentair variable speed which seems to high a high rate of failure due to the electronics on the pump which are apparently sensitive and the price of a new pump to replace.

(6) After doing the wiring and plumbing, I plan to have a pool professional or licensed electrician to perform the final connect and start up, which will help with warranty.

I am in Fort Lauderdale, FL if anyone has a recommendation!

Thank you!

You can change out the old breaker feeding the pump. This would be the safest way. A surge protector should be located close to your service this would then protect everything not just the pool. I voted up because it is easy to swap an old non GFCI for a GFCI protected breaker and this will make the current pool service much safer.

Never ever connect a neutral to a ground point in a sub-panel (isolated non-bonded). Not only is this hazardous to electronic components but it is extremely hazardous and in this case, a pool, could prove to be fatal if something inside of the pool pump fails. Please heed the following directions:

You MUST absolutely have a dedicated run for the pool pump back to a GFCI 2 pole (240V) breaker located in the main panel. The neutral from the GFCI breaker must be attached to the bonded Neutral bar in your main panel. You will also need a disconnect in the vicinity of the pool pump but any neutral and ground MUST be isolated from each other.
If you have secondary (separate) outside lighting in the pool. This also will need to be a dedicated run back to the main panel and MUST be connected to a GFCI breaker. This will also need a disconnect in the vicinity of the pool.
Your pool pump's outer housing MUST be bonded to an auxiliary (secondary) ground rod located in the vicinity of the pool.

Only after meeting these three criteria and getting inspected by a licensed electrical inspector will your pool truly be safe to use. Never ever cut corners with electrical configurations or equipment. It's just not worth the risk. Good luck and happy swimming.


What pressure should I aim for when setting a pressure reducing valve? Since the time I moved into my house, I've had problems with water hammer. More recently, I've had some faucets start to leak. I also noticed that after showers/baths, the hot water would surge when the sink faucet was turned on.
After installing water hammer arrestors, and securing all the plumbing. I have reduced, but not eliminated the hammer.  As for the surging water after a large hot water demand. I recognized that, as a symptom of a failed expansion tank.
In the process of replacing the tank, I took a water pressure reading in order to charge the tank. When I got a reading of 85 psi, I was slightly concerned.  Especially when the instructions for the expansion tank, said not to charge the tank over 80 psi. Of course I went directly to the code books, and discovered that codes call for a PRV for pressures over 80 psi.

International Residential Code 2012
Chapter 29 Water Supply and Distribution
Section P2903 Water-Supply System
P2903.3.1 Maximum pressure.
The static water pressure shall be not greater than 80 psi (551 kPa). When main pressure exceeds 80 psi (551 kPa), an approved pressure-reducing valve conforming to ASSE 1003 or CSA B356 shall be installed on the domestic water branch main or riser at the connection to the water-service pipe.

International Plumbing Code 2012
Chapter 6 Water Supply and Distribution
Section 604 Design of Building Water Distribution System
604.8 Water pressure reducing valve or regulator.
Where water pressure within a building exceeds 80 psi (552 kPa) static, an approved water-pressure reducing valve conforming to ASSE 1003 or CSA B356 with strainer shall be installed to reduce the pressure in the building water distribution piping to not greater than 80 psi (552 kPa) static.

To make a long story short, I'm installing a pressure reducing valve (PRV). However, I'm not sure where I should set it. I've gotten used to the high pressure, and I'm afraid lowering it will be disappointing. At the same time, eliminating water hammer, and not worrying about damaging fixtures would be a good thing.
I've searched the internet, and found recommendations anywhere from 40 to 80 psi. Family Handyman says that "... 45 to 55 psi is ideal.". I've also found that most PRVs come preset to 50-55 psi. Other sources say that anything over 60 psi, may cause damage to the plumbing system. IRC requires pressure to be above 40 psi, so I know I want to be above that.

P2903.3 Minimum pressure.
The static water pressure (as determined by the local water authority) at the building entrance for either public or private water service shall be not less than 40 psi (276 kPa).

What pressure should I set the pressure reducing valve to?

Assuming metal pipe, I'd set it to about 60, because that's a good compromise between too-high pressure and disappointingly little pressure. That's what most well pumps I've seen are set for, and significantly less than most municipal water systems (I've seen one city water system that delivered 125psi to the house). Much lower than 60psi and you'll be frustrated by the slow flow.

With resilient (not PVC/CPVC) plastic pipe, I'd go a little lower than that because unlike metal pipe, which has very strong, secure connections, plastic pipe has only clamp-over-plastic-over-barb connections, which can fail more easily than metal pipe. With PVC/CPVC, I'd go even lower because it gets brittle with age.

This is not a problem with the pressure. You need a surge tank connected to the line. This has to be recharged with air periodically, since water dissolves air.

The air in the surge tank acts as a compressible cushion to prevent hammer.


How can I locate and repair a leak? We recently bought a 100 year old house that stood uninhabited for 18 months prior to our move. Everything had been properly winterized for the cold winter months (Temperatures can reach -40 C) and the water was turned on and seemed to be working properly for about 3 weeks. Then we ran into some issues. The house is two storeys with two full baths on each level stacked on top of one another. The first floor toilet had a minor leak that seemed to correct itself within a day and hasn't been an issue since. The second story toilet began to leak about a week later due to the tank overfilling and leaking through the flush handle. We remedied this problem quite easily and the toilet hasn't leaked since. Now here comes the real issue.

Shortly after the second toilet leak, we woke up early one morning to discover water covering the floor of the first floor bathroom. It was coming from the ceiling at a steady drip rate, but nothing alarming. We shut the water off to the entire house and the dripping stopped after about 12 hours. During the following week we ended up peeling back the plastered layer on the ceiling to discover that it is made of cement board (??) and the water seems to just seep through when the water is on. We can access the shower pipes on the second floor through a removable panel in the wall, but there is no water to be seen. I guess I'm just trying to see if anyone has had experience with a similar issue, any suggestions as to how it can be diagnosed/fixed, and whether or not I'm going to have to take a second mortgage out to fix the issue.

I should mention that we did call a plumber the same day the ceiling leak was discovered. He set up an appointment, but then called back and told us that if the leak was related to a burst pipe, the amount of water leaking would be much more substantial and it wouldn't continue to leak after the water was turned off (which it did initially for about 12 hours). He informed us it was probably water that had pooled underneath the upstairs toilet and was now seeping through the cement board. We now know that the leak will start and stop in relation to the water being turned on and off, but I think the issue is that the leak isn't a dramatic one when the water is left on. It just kind of... drips through. Please help!

What this could be is that you have a slow leak from the floor above. Probably a water feed rather than a drain. Although it could be from the heating system if you have a water or steam system with radiators. When you turned the water on the house it started to drip, and the ceiling soaked it all up. Eventually the ceiling became saturated and started to drip onto the floor.

If you do have a slow leak then obviously you need to find the source. It's probably a leaky pipe joint, or maybe a loose compression fitting. The only way you're going to find it is to get access, as for how that completely depends on your house's construction. There may be a panel in front of the bath that can be removed, etc.

What you need to do is meticulously go through the whole bathroom above and look for any kind of access to pipes you see, and look for signs of dripping moisture, oxidation on the pipes, or hard water deposits. As it sounds like the whole ceiling needs to come down on the floor below do that first, then use that access to find your leak.

As for how to fix it if it's a compression fitting get out your wrench and have at it. If it's a solder joint or a bad pipe get a plumber in unless you have the tools and the experience. Good luck!

I once had a similar situation where an upstairs toilet had an un-noticed pinhole leak in the supply line that runs from the valve on the wall to the bottom of the fill valve. The leak wasn't discovered until the wall down stairs had been ripped up searching for the source of the water. A tiny leak, not a drip but a little spray, over the course of a couple of days it caused quite a mess.

These supply lines can get very fragile over time and any disturbance can cause small holes or cracks.


Should I use liquid water proofing membrane over a standard shower mud pan? I'm getting ready to finish waterproofing my new shower before tiling it and am wondering if I should waterproof the mud pan on the floor? My construction methods are as follows from bottom to top:

Wooden subfloor
pre-sloped mud pan (with tar paper & metal lathe between the subfloor)
pvc shower pan liner 6" up the studs & over curb
Concrete board on walls down to bottom of liner
Final ~1/2-3/4" mortar bed over the liner and mortared shower curb

I'm going to paint a few layers of liquid waterproofing membrane over the concrete board walls (and should I do the ceiling since I'll be tiling that as well?). Does it matter if I also waterproof the mud floor? I know it's not necessary since that's what the liner is for, but would it hurt anything? I'm mainly interested if there's a concern for hydrostatic pressure buildup between the impermeable PVC liner and the liquid membrane if water were to get in between them somehow.

Any shower I have done in the past 5 years has been done with both the PVC liner over a sloped bed and the liquid applied membrane. I coat all the corners and the drain 1 coat, then paint 2 coats over everything up to the splash line of about 5 1/2 feet. No need to do the ceiling.

If you have not done it already, let me suggest this.... I use a modified thin set and fiberglass tape to cover all the joints before applying the liquid membrane. It strengthens the joints where the cement boards meet. Also bridges gaps for the membrane.

"I'm going to paint a few layers of liquid waterproofing membrane over the concrete board walls"

The concrete board walls are designed to be the substrate to which you bond tiles with mortar, the waterproofing membrane (often tar paper) needs to be under the concrete board walls and overlapping the vinyl pan at the bottom, so moisture that might penetrate flows down the waterproofing membrane into/onto the shower pan, then flow to the drain weep holes. Also, I cannot imagine that tile would adhere properly to concrete board with a waterproof coating on it.

"Does it matter if I also waterproof the mud floor?"

It might. The vinyl liner is your primary waterproof membrane and is supposed to terminate such that moisture penetration of the tile/grout/final mud layer can flow to weep holes in the shower drain. If you somehow block that function you could end up with pooled water under the tiles, not good. Again, the final mud layer is the ideal substrate for tile adhesion with mortar, how to you intend to affix the tiles directly to a waterproof surface?


When wiring a wall plug is the common wire white or black? Switch says common wire. Is that white or black wire?

Black (hot) wire, brass screw (small blade)

White (neutral) wire, silver screw (wide blade).

Ground (bare or green) wire, green screw. (U blade)

You have a 3 way switch if it says common(common is the wire going from one switch to another) didn't know outlets had 3 way? But I only know the basics


What could be the source of this moisture? I'm a little baffled here with the problem at hand -- we're seeing spots on our engineered wood flooring that appears to be moisture coming up from beneath but cant figure out the source of that moisture. We already did the water meter test and there seem to be no indication of a slab leak. The only thing we can think of is that this started popping up only during rainy season since the last couple months  This wasn't there before, which could or could not be related.

I used a General Tools MM8 infrared water meter in 'hardwood' mode and it shows anywhere from 22% to 35% moisture, which I believe is excessive (it should be below 12%) but I'm skeptical of that reading since it gives that reading on the entire floor... and we have a pretty big floor. According to the same moisture meter all walls, baseboards, etc. are dry. I've attached pics of the spots. There's no warping/cupping of the planks, it looks pretty level. Could anyone take a look at the pics and suggest what may be going on? What could be the source of it and how to remedy the issue? I have extra planks and don't mind replacing them, but want to eliminate the root cause of the problem.

You're best bet is to peel a plank and see what's under it.


\What is the best way to frame a box? I want to create a box. I am using a lap joint for the top and bottom frame.

For the vertical sides I need help. The pictures show the two ideas I had.

But there must be a better way to attach the vertical pieces instead of being inside or outside like I have drawn them. Ideally I would like the corner of the vertical support to flush with the corner of the horizontal frame corner. I could toe-nail thr vertical into the frames, but that seems very weak to me

Requirments:

1) strong - I don't want the structure to "fold" if it is leaned on
2) flush to the long and short sides because I want MDF on one side and doors on the long face to create storage.
2a) for doors I will need more vertical members to create a door opening. Basically I'm creating a built-in entertainment centre as the end result

Isherwood's answer is great, however, I'd question why you are using lap joints at all if that's the type of vertical you are thinking about.

It's far less work to not bother with the lap joints and just tie the sides directly into vertical posts like this:

However if you insist on using lap joints I'd say you want every face to have to be made of it's own lap jointed rectangles, them just link the rectangles together so it looks a bit like this (imagine the top part of the frame with less overhang):

just for displaying in CAD, Not considering the structure strength, you can make a cut out same size as profile of your vertical stud. But if you take fastening methods into consideration, this may not give you good result.


What is a recommended height for tile edging? I'm trying to put up a tiled mosaic back splash and I'm trying to figure out the profile height for the edging. My tiles are 1/4" (6mm) thick.

Should I be getting an edge where the profile height matches my tiles or should I get one slightly thicker to account for the thinset?

With larger tile that may span irregularities, I would advise 1/16 higher to end up flush.

With mosaics, I would go for the same height.  Too much thinset with mosaics makes a grout line mess, oozing up and needing extra cleaning.

If you are using unbacked glass mosaics, be sure to skim coat the whole field with a white thinset before pulling.a notched trowel for the final setting bed. Then flatten the ridges for a smooth, void free bed that won't show variations through the glass

You can use the same height square tile trim or straight trim to protect and enhance ceramic tiling.  You can check Aluminum square edge trim for more information. In my experience, at both ends, you have to use internal or external end cap to cover them.


How can I locate floor joists? I want to use some stop squeak screws that pull the subfloor tight to the joists, then break off beneath the surface of the floor.  I am having a difficult time locating the joists: my stud finder doesn't seem to work very well and I am losing my marbles drilling holes through carpeting and missing the joist.  I am doing this on both carpet and vinyl.

The joists should be at the squeak, you just need to determine the direction of the joists. Typically, this is the shorter distance between exterior walls, unless there are interior load bearing walls used to break up the span. Some stud finders have a deep penetrating settings that might find a joist through carpet. And you can also try finding the joists in the ceiling below and measuring the distance from a common wall.

Your stud finder won't work because you have 3/4" -- if not more -- plywood.

Q: What size screws are you using?

If your screws aren't getting embedded into the floor then you're not grabbing the joist.  You need 3" galvanized or Deck Mate screws.  Even drywall screws will work but the threads have to be coarse.

Galvanized screws or deck mate screws are what you need,
3" screws are what you need even Sheetrock screws will work but the threads have to be corse.


Radon remediation in a part-time home We have a second home that we use approximately 1 week/month year-round, and more in the summer.   When we purchased the home in 2019, it was tested at 9pCi/L, and a remediation system was installed before closing, with subsequent testing at 1.4pCi/L.
I'm wondering if there's a point to running the system full-time, when we are only there part time (and especially now when our normal schedule isn't likely to happen for an extra month or two).  When we are not there, this system is the major energy consumer in the house, at approximately 2.5-3 kWh/day.   I have the ability to programmatically turn the system off and on, and I'm thinking I could either run it part-time (say 6h/day) or not at all, turning it on full-time several days or even a week before our anticipated arrival.   Given that the un-remediated readings were modest, it seems the risk doing this should be low.

Will having the system on, then off possibly create higher levels than previously existed (for example, because the continuous suction
has created new pathways for it)?
Would running the system on a daily cycle be more effective by sweeping whatever is seeping out of the group up more regularly?

Edited; I have only read testing reports and wired abatement pumps. I modified my answer based on the feedback. As I have said in other posts granite especially pink or rose can be a significant source of radon.
I would not run the system while you are away, I probably would open the house lower level windows or vents when you arrive. You may even want to set up a automated system that you can remotely turn on the abatement system the day prior to your arrival.  Exterior vents at the lowest level with make up air for a while would purge the home of this gas and purging and having the system running prior to arrival might work fine but test to verify if the numbers are low this can save $$$!


How many coats of spray paint do I need? I am working on finish my basement. The idea is that the ceiling is going to remain unfinished but spray painted pitch black to hide all the wires and plumbing.

Last weekend I did one coat of spray paint and used up 9 gallons of pre-mixed black paint.  I was originally planning on spraying two coats.

It looks great, and by the looks of it a nice thick coat was applied with a few spots that were missed. I could, in theory, touch up the spots with a can of black spray paint rather than do a full second coat.

Am I going to do myself a disservice by skipping the second coat ?

I ended up skipping the second coat. I went around a touched up a few spots with a brush using the same paint and it looks great otherwise.


How do I transition from sheet vinyl to bare concrete? I'm laying sheet vinyl directly over concrete in a basement bathroom. The rest of the basement is bare concrete. Do I just glue down the edge really well where the vinyl ends? I found an "Armstrong 1/8" VCT to Nothing Reducer VT525" online. it looks like this would just be glued down to the concrete right next to the end of the vinyl. Is that the right transition for this application? Lowes has a similar looking "FLEXCO Reducer 1-in x 36-in Cappuccino Vinyl Reducers Floor Transition Strip" Thanks.

Floor transition trims (or strips) are usually glued. I would avoid an anchor, because in this case it's not really a transition (it's just vinyl on concrete, so it's less than 1mm) and the anchor head (no matter how flat) will not be flush; it'll look bad, and could lead to tripping.

The thing is that the smallets trims expect some height difference. Perhaps you can use a carpet trim, that's fastened with nails (and is flatter).

I strongly recommend a vinyl strip (or metal threshold) to protect the sheet vinyl edge.

No matter how well you glue the edge down to the concrete, someone will catch the sheet vinyl edge with their shoe and pull it loose.


Can a dryer be vented through the roof? In my home the dryer vent is set up to vent out into an enclosed back porch. The problem is that all sorts of lint (and heat) get pumped out into that enclosed area and makes a mess.

Directly above the dryer there is a ventilation pipe that goes to the roof (also connected to the vent in the bathroom) that I could easily re-route the dryer vent into.

A couple of questions about this:

Is it a generally accepted practice to vent a dryer up through the roof, or does a dryer vent have to generally be at a level or downward slope?
Is it okay to use the same vent line as the bathroom or am I asking for trouble?
Is there a recommend maximum distance for venting a dryer that I am going to exceed going from the first floor of a home to the roof?

I would not do this for exactly the reasons you've asked about:

1) By sharing the bathroom vent pipe, you're ensuring that at least half the gunk that's being spewed onto your porch is going to be spewed into your bathroom unless you can find and install some kind of one-way flapper between the new "Y" fitting and the bathroom.  If you do find and install such a thing, it's going to be difficult to keep clean and operational.

2) I'm assuming since you say "first floor" that you also have a second floor, in which case that's a long way to go to get up to the roof.  It's not such a big deal for the bathroom fan to vent up there, but that's a long way for lint from the dryer to be carried, and it's going to be more likely to collect on the walls of the pipe over that long distance.

Do you have a crawlspace or basement that you could run a new pipe through?

we  had  a episode concerning  dryer vent  a fire  in  the  dryer from  having  vents  upwards lint  goes  back  inside  the  dryer and into  your heating  elements and  causes  fire so therefore i  would not  recommend upward venting
short term may  be  ok  but  long  term may  cause  a  fire
fire chief


Can I replace an electric smoke detector with a combined smoke and carbon monoxide (CO) detector? My house has electric smoke detectors wired into an ADT alarm system.  I'm not using the alarm system but the smoke detectors seem to work anyway.  I'd like to have carbon monoxide detectors too.

Can I replace the existing electric detectors with ones that detect carbon monoxide too?
  Or do should I just screw a battery powered one onto the ceiling next to the existing smoke detector?

In our area, local codes made at least one CO detectors mandatory in all condos and rental units.  I have had to replace dozens of standard smoke detectors with combo units in hard wired/battery back-up systems.  Most every manufacturer makes a CO/Smoke unit that will plug in directly to the existing system. A hard wired replacement is far better than a stand alone battery operated unit, as it will alarm all units in the system if there is a problem.

Having the system monitored or not monitored makes absolutely no difference on how the system works inside the house. All monitored systems will work fine in the house even if the monitoring system is off.

The problem with a CO detector combined with a smoke detector mounted on the ceiling is that smoke rises and CO is heavier than air. So by the time a ceiling mounted CO detector goes off you've likely been dead for quite a while. CO monitoring needs to be done low, there are several stand alone CO detection units that plug into a standard wall outlet and have on board battery backup.

Companies that sell CO combined with smoke detectors clearly did not research the product they are attempting to detect.


Light Switch two hot wires (one from wire another one from anothr switch) I have a light switch that is installed in a electrical box together with 2 other switches. I'm surprised that the switch has 2 hot wires. One wire is coming from the switch next to it, the other wire is the actual wire coming from the wall. All white wires of the three switches are joined inside the box.
Is there a reason why the electrian would install two hot wires for the switch?

The wire from the other switch is almost certainly the line hot. If so, it will be always hot no matter what position either of the switches is in. This is electrically the same as having a separate wire going to each switch from a common line hot. I have a set of three switches in a 3-gang box wired that way.

The other wire also black should be the switched hot going to a light or a switched receptacle. It would be hot when the switch is on and not hot when the switch is off.

That switch is feeding the other switches.


Contractor not using thin set between sub floor and cement board So, I've made a big stink with the flooring guys about how they have installed the Hardiebacker cement board for our tile.  They skipped putting down the thin set under the cement board even though the installation instruction specify that it is required.

from instructions:

Apply a supporting bed of mortar or modified thinset to subfloor using a 1/4” square-notched trowel.

The flooring guy called me and said that JamesHardie company tech support said that if he used screws instead of nails they could forego the thin set under the cement board.

So I called JamesHardie tech support and their offices are currently closed... So I can't verify this claim.  This seems quite shady.

Am I wrong to push the issue or should I just let him use the screws and go about the job?  They have umpteen years experience doing this stuff.

Also,  will this cause problems down the road, and should I continue pushing the issue?

This is a subjective question. Here are the factors as I see them:

Hardi apparently doesn't require mortar under its cement board if it's screwed down properly. The guide referenced above seems to be more suggestion than warranty requirement. If the fastener schedule provided is followed closely, problems are not likely to occur. However, a mortared system will be more rigid, potentially reducing tile and grout cracks between floor joists.
Your subfloor is OSB, so it's questionable whether a mortar bond is wise at all. OSB is widely considered to be unsuitable as a tile substrate due to its tendency to swell and delaminate from moisture, but this is a bit different. It may have worked out with no ill effects. The mortar would serve to prevent any gaps between the layers of the substrate system, improving stability.
Your contract apparently doesn't stipulate mortar in this case. With Hardi's blessing, you probably have no legal standing to insist on mortar.

In my opinion, you'll probably be satisfied with the results if only screws are used. It's difficult to predict how much floor movement will occur with the information provided. That said, a mortar bond would generally be considered a higher-quality installation.

In the end, the decision comes down to your willingness to settle for 95% quality or to deal with the dispute between yourself and your contractor.

Nothing better than glue AND screw. Have them re-do it regardless. They can't say it's worse & they should be there to make you as happy as they can. Especially for being someone actually informed, they should want to impress.


Small diameter multimedia cable? I would like to install multimedia outlets (RJ45) in my house. The installation tubing is diam. 20mm (inside is 13.9mm). In the worse case, I have a diam. 6.5mm cable inside. So I would be able to add an additional 13.9 - 6.5 - 2.5 (mechanical play) = diam 5 mm multimedia cable.
As it would be quite a tough job, I am looking for a Cat 6a cable the smallest possible.
Where should I look for it?

It can be hard knowing what to search for in the first place if you don’t know the domain and the terminology.  This sounds like in-wall, so you’d want to search for “riser” or “horizontal” solid conductor cable.  There’s not much more to do than search for options and check specs to see what is thin enough.
I’ve run across bulk stranded cable as small as 3.75mm diameter, and since you have conduit you can technically run whatever you want in it, but just be aware that most RJ45 wall jacks are intended for use with solid conductors and punch down tools, so you’ll need to ensure you can properly terminate stranded wires.
Another thing that might help - a high quality cat5e or 6 will perform as well as a cat6a for short runs (~50-100ft maybe) since the spec is designed to account for longer runs. These tend to have smaller dividers or no divider in them at all, which would cut down the diameter. Belden 2413 is 5.3mm.
Hope this gives you some place to start your search!

As you may know, Ethernet only uses two of the four strands in a Cat5 cable. So, depending on your intended use, you might be able to get by with much thinner cables. I have a number of Ethernet patch cables with only two strands. They are very thin — about 1 mm in diameter. Some of them are 15 feet long, and they work fine, and I think I’ve even seen 30 foot ones. However, I bought them in Japan, and I don’t know if similar cables are available in the US. These are close, but mine are quite a bit thinner.
And I’m assuming that cabling that works in patch cables would also work in your walls. That might not be true — beyond my expertise.


How do sub-surface drains (e.g. French drains) work? Do sub-surface drains (e.g. French drains, rubble drains, etc.) require a uniform rise in the water table in order to work? Or can they catch and convey localized sub-surface water?

For instance, let's say my neighbor allows water from their garden hose to accumulate in one spot on their lawn near our property line. As a result, the soil there becomes soggy and water logged. Can I install a sub-surface drain on my side of the property line to prevent this water from transmitting through the earth towards my home's foundation?

Moreover, if my sub-surface drain does catch that ground water, what prevents the water from falling back out of the pipe as it flows downwards towards its ultimate destination? What causes the water to stay in the pipe even though the pipe is full of holes?

A French drain doesn't move the water anywhere it just creates a void that can be filled with water for the short term. You could do the same thing by burying a barrel with holes in it and landscape fabric around it. Eventually it would get full of water and if the rain (or garden watering) doesn't stop it will still flood the area.

Nothing prevents the water from falling back out of the pipe except hydraulic pressure. But that is the idea. As the ground dries back out the water leeches back into the soil. There is not usually an ultimate destination but you could create one by connecting solid pipe to the perforated pipe running downhill to another area.

You can certainly do this on your side of the property to help reduce flooding.


light fixture wattage question I purchased a light kit that requires 3 light bulbs and says 100 Watt max.  Does this mean that the wattage of the 3 bulbs can only add up to 100 watts or does that mean that each lightbulb can be no more than 100 watts.  For example, can I use 3 60 watt bulbs?

The wattage ratings are typically listed to reduce possibility of excess /heat/ buildup in the fixture.  If you want to use 3x 60 watt bulbs, consider replacing traditional incandescent bulbs with newer CFL (spiral) or LED bulbs.  Either choice will use much less electricity and also emit much less heat, staying within the safety rating for the fixture.


My electric lawn mower won't start after getting grass blocking the blade I haven't mowed for many months due to special circumstances so my yard's grass was pretty dense. Several time the motor stopped after grass formed a compact bulk completely blocking the blade. After the third time this happened, my Flymo Easimo Electric Wheeled Lawn Mower(Amazon link) doesn't start any more.
What is the likely cause and can I do something about it? I really don't feel like buying another one right now.
EDIT:
There was no smell when opening the bonnet, and no disconnected wire or anything like that. Also I used the lowest setting (meaning the one to cut the grass as short as possible)
EDIT #2:
I just tried again and the mower now works! Yet for 5 minutes trying an hour ago, nothing.

I've cut through meter-high grasses and other stuff with a plain lawnmower.  The trick is, you need to go very, very, very slowly.  And listen closely to the machine, it will make detectable noises when it is starting to overload and you must detect and respond swiftly to stop that.
Also, this is a time you'll want those blades super sharp.  So if you have the means, keep em bright!
It's gonna take an age, compared to what you're used to.  You won't like that.  But don't think about how miserable the job is today, think of the dozen times this year you didn't have to do it.  It's a huge net savings, so you should be happy.

$18 dollar solution: swing blade
source

I have been having lots of fun with my new swing blade this summer.  You can take the blade off and sharpen it up super sharp.  It goes thru grass and weeds like they were nothing.  If you hit one of the rocks that make the lot unsafe for the mower it will kick up sparks!  Sparks show up better if you go out in the dead of night, when it is cool.  With this you will not wake up your neighbors doing your lawn in the dead of night.
Wear gloves, starting when you sharpen it.
You can plow thru all that tall grass with your swing blade and then use Buzzy the Electric Mower to keep it short.
Or maybe stick to the swing blade.


Why do I have multiple voltages, power spikes, and other issues with my electric service? I'm in an old house that has been mostly rewired in the last 15 years. I am in the USA so the power should be 110V, 220V but that is not the case. All day and night the power surges from 110V to 140V for about 6 seconds then back down again. If i unplug the 3 prong outlet from the 110V stove the power in the kitchen drops to 75V and the rest of the house goes to 170V. I tested the power coming up to the apartment and it  checked out perfect. When I tested the main lines coming into the breaker panel and one side is 110V and one is 140V. I pulled the main breaker and checked them again and there is no voltage at all coming into the box when the fuse is pulled. Everything I know from dealing with electric service says none of this should even work. Also I noticed a gas leak a couple weeks ago. The copper gas line was up against an old gas line and had arched a hole right through the copper. Not sure if that helps but any ideas at this point are welcome.

You have an open or compromised service neutral.

PLEASE call your power company immediately to have them check their connections.

It is also very possible you'll need an electrician to check/repair/replace the terminations in the meter pan.

I have to ask, do you own this house? If not then calling your landlord is your ONLY option.

I ran a new ground to the box and everything works great. Thanks for the help. I guess I left out that I'm not a novice when it comes to electrical I have ran many new wires, boxes, hookups, etc. just never ran across this problem before.


Is there a way to plug a NEMA 6-20P plug into a NEMA 10-30R receptacle? Is there a way to plug a 6-20p 208/220/250v plug into a 10-30r receptacle? I can't seem to find an adapter for this. I bought a 220v fahrenheat heater and want to be able to plug it into a range or dryer receptacle.

You will not find a legal or listed "adapter" for this.

A 6-20 is a straight 240V grounding 20A device.
A 10-30 is a 120/240V non-grounding 30A device, where the grounding function is provided via the neutral. This is only allowed in older range and dryer circuits, so any adapter would not be legal to use on any other circuit.

Yes, there are actually adapters available for this. A quick web search for "6-20r to 10-30p adapter" should give you a few good results. Good luck! :)