Will a 6x10 glue-lam be suitable to replace a 4x10 porch beam with one fewer post? I have a 12x15 covered patio. The builder used a 4x10-16 beam supported by three 4x4 posts. Due to some rot issues I need to replace the beam and would like to eliminate the center post. Would a 6x10-16 glulam supported by two 4x6 posts handle the load?

Yes, using a 5 1/8” x 10 1/2” glulam beam will support a 16’ long header. You don’t give all the loading information required, but I’ll make some assumptions and you tell me if I’m wrong.
Loading from your covered patio is 20 psf snow live load plus 10 psf dead load (lumber, roofing, etc.) for a total load of 30 psf. Because the covered patio is 12’ deep, then 6’ bears on the header... so, 6’ x 30 psf = 180 plf along the header.
The 5 1/8” x 10 1/2” glulam will support 600 plf. Therefore, 600 plf - 180 plf = 420 plf allowed from the “house side” on the header. So if the span onto the header is less than 28’ then the glulam will support the load. (Remember, 14’ will rest on the new header and the other 14’ will rest on the other side of the house.)
If you live in a climate that has more than 20 psf of snow, the header will still work if snow lasts less than 90 days, due to an impact allowance.
Also, you may use a 4x4 for support at each end in lieu of the 4x6 you’re suggesting. Bearing value on each 4x4 is 600 lbs. x 16’/2 = 4800 lbs. So actual load is 4800 lbs. / 3.5” x 3.5” = 391 psi. ~ 385 psi allowable.
Make sure the beam and posts are connected together with a metal connector, such as Simpson ACE.
Likewise, connect the post base to the sole plate with a metal connector.
The last issue to check is bearing on footings. The code allows 1500 psf soil bearing value without a geotechnical report. Therefore, the maximum loading on the soil is 4800 lbs. plus 600 lbs. of concrete for a total load of 5,400 lbs.  If your footings are a minimum of 16” wide, then you’d need only the perimeter strip footing to be a minimum of 30” long.
When you order your glulam, be sure to order 2400 f. (Not 2200 f.)

No. Your proposed beam will not work, as well as the posts and the foundation.
A simple comparison, eliminating the mid-post in a two continuous spans setup (assuming the span lengths are equal), the resulting moment demand is 4 times as great as the original. For the new beam to be able to survive, from the strength point of view, it needs a section modulus 4 times as large as the original 4 x10, that is
4 x S1 = S2, in which S1 = b1 x h1^2 = 416^2/6 = 170.67 in^3, and S2 = 6h2^2/6 = h2^2 in^3
Thus, h2^2 = 4*170.67 ---> h2 = 26.13" >> 16"
Further evaluation is required to examine the impact of the increased support reactions that is likely to call for upsizing of the posts and foundations. Also, the elimination of the mid-post will result in increased deflection that may require further upsizing the beam.


Put a wood board on home wall concrete My condo is made out of concrete. I like to put a wooden board up (~25mm thick, 600mm in width, and 1800mm in height) on my concrete wall so I can nail up the wall and load it on with tools (drivers, drills, wrenches etc.)

Questions:

How to locate if there are electrical wire running inside the concrete? I have no drawing of the condo. I have seen construction worker having a handheld device that beeps when they survey a concrete wall. Is that what it is and what is it called?
There are so many type of screws I found online that drill into concrete. For example, this. The description wasn't very helpful and I wonder if someone can help tell me which screw I should use to drill through a wooden board and into a concrete wall

1) To find wires buried near the surface in walls you can use a "cable detector" They have various names. One example is the Bosch PMD-7.

2) The type of screw depends partly on weight. For concrete, you could use a goodly number of tapcon screws or perhaps a fewer number of sleeve anchors. Check the weight rating of the screw and work out the expected load of your wooden panel plus all the things you will hang on it.

There are many types of drill machine available in market for different types to do drill in concrete wall, but there is a difficulty to locate where the electric wire is going inside the concrete.


Power connected to dishwasher isn't tied into breaker panel - now what? I'm in the process of ripping up old tile from a house we just bought, and started to take out our old dishwasher today. During the process I noticed it's hardwired from the wall.

I went and flipped every breaker in the panel (we haven't had a chance to verify the labels just yet), and went back to the dishwasher. It's at this point I decided to be paranoid (which happens a lot when I'm dealing with stuff I know very little about), and drove back to our current home to grab my voltage detector. Seemed overkill, but it's only a couple minutes away, and I'd prefer to not die.

I come back, place the detector at the dishwasher, and to my surprise the detector goes off like crazy. The wires are still hot.

What do I do now? How can I kill the power to this cord? Do I need to call in an electrician to.. "fix" this somehow?

Here are a couple of ideas. Usually there is a service panel on the outside of the house, this is where the main service line connects to the home. There should be a few breakers in there, but they are typically only for the bigger circuits. At my house for example, there are breakers in the outside panel for the range/oven, dryer, air conditioner, and one that goes to my main circuit panel inside. The inside breaker box is where all the breakers for lights and outlets inside are. Some homes get a second panel added inside when they run out of space on the primary panel. So I'd try to see if you have another circuit panel inside, or check in your outside panel to see if there is a circuit there that will shutoff the dishwasher circuit.

I don't think if you need an electrician to turn off the power, because in your breaker box must be something related  to the kitchen wish you will be able to figure it out from there.


Reproduce/build 4"x4" steel bases using brackets? I was searching for bases that will be used to anchor 4-ft x 4"x4" posts to concrete, and I saw this 12-gauge base for $18. I was also looking at these bases, but they seem a little flimsy.

I'm thinking that, in our case, it would be better to use heavy-duty brackets and anchor screws. Are there 4"x4" U-brackets?

How can I use brackets to reproduce these bases? The one I'd like to reproduce is this one because it's less visible. I was thinking of 4 2" "L" brackets, but I can't find them online. Something like this:

If you’re looking to build your own base, you could copy one of these.

If it’s a retrofit installation, you could use Simpson RPBZ. And if it needs to stand off concrete, add CPS.

If you don’t like the looks of the metal side plates, you can use Simpson CPTZ.

For maximum resistance against rotation, you can use Simpson MPBZ.

I think you want a Simpson Strong-Tie Rebar Carport Saddle, 4 Inch x 4 Inch
Model # RCPS3.5HDG

(6x6 pictured)

You'll need to borrow or rent a drill, as this is too big for your household hammer drill, and get a tube of cement glue.  Drill the hole, fill with glue, and drop it in. The only trick is getting things level.  The brackets are $6 Canadian at the orange store.


WHirlpool Super capacity 465 I hear gas at burners but will not ignite even with a match. I hear no gas in oven area I recently went to restart the Whirlpool Super Capacity 465 gas oven.  I can hear the gas and feel the gas at the burners.  No clicking and it will not light with a match.  I tried the oven, turned on the heat and hear no gas there at all.  Any ideas?

WARNING  WARNING*****THIS IS NOT A JOB FOR AN AMATEUR****WARNING  WARNING
I'm going to make a guess here; hopefully it can help.  I wager that somehow a large bubble of air or very low concentrate gas has gotten into the line and is giving you trouble.  If this is true here is the fix.  First ventilate the area very well; open all windows and doors to allow lots of fresh air to the immediate area.  Keep them open.  Now find a point on the gas supply line to the appliance that is accessible and has a union type fitting.  Find the appliance gas shut-off valve. It should be in the area.  Turn it off.  On the down-stream side of the service valve, break this fitting; unscrew this fitting completely. This will allow you to dump a large amount of gas in a short period of time to clear the line effectively under very controlled conditions. Now open the gas valve all the way.  Allow this gas line to vent for 15 to 20-seconds.  The gas should smell like rotten eggs and the smell should get worse as the gas concentrates.  Close the service valve.  Now leave the gas valve in the off position turn and leave the area for a good 4-minutes.  Do not turn on or off any lights in the area.  Basically don't do anything but leave the area.  After the allotted time return and reconnect the gas line tightly.  Reopen the gas service valve.  Now again try to light the appliance.  Hopefully, the results will be different.

WARNING WARNING****THIS IN NOT A JOB FOR AN AMATEUR****WARNING   WARNING

Servicing of the gas lines and gas supply is constantly going on upstream to your gas service.  It is the nature of life.  In the process of doing this, air is a times unintentionally allowed into the system. You may be experiencing one of these times. Good Luck and happy cooking. P.


How do I safely and cleanly remove sealant from a plastic bath? I really need to replace the sealant around the bath, but I want to do a good job of removing the old stuff first.

The bath is a plastic one, and the walls are tiled.

What's the best way to get the old stuff off without leaving any residue or damage, so that fresh sealant can be applied?

You might have to resort to good old fashioned elbow grease.

The sealant should come off the tiles the easiest, both mechanically by scraping with a plastic edge - the flat edge of an adhesive spreader should be suitable, and if necessary chemically (though I'm not 100% certain what you can use) as the glazed surface will hard to damage.

The plastic bath might cause more problems. I'd start with rubbing or scraping with the plastic edge - but take a lot more care. Chemicals are more likely to damage the surface too. You could try using a plastic safe cleaner.

I used Lift Off caulk remover to get the bulk of it off. It worked great but getting the residue off was a bear until I tried a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser pad, which took it right off!


Splice inside light pole I am replacing a rotted out light pole in my yard.  The underground feeder that runs to the light pole is only long enough to run halfway up the new light pole.  Is it acceptable to splice an extra length of cable to run to the top of the light pole?  I don't know if this is acceptable since there will be a splice hidden inside the light pole.

No -- splices need to be accessible in case something gets messed up and the splice needs re-doing.  There should be a space in the base of the lamppost to make the needed splice/connection, though -- look for an access panel as part of the base.

Yes, you can just splice it, but if possible don't just twist it and tape it - that's probably asking for a short sometime in the future, it would be best to splice and solder it and tape it.

http://nicab.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Wire-splice-solderikng.jpg


Would covering walls with a sound absorbing foam reduce the transmission of medium-high frequency fan noise? I have recently purchased a server-grade computer, which works great, however, it is now audible even through a closed door.

It is in a separate room, so I am thinking what are the best ways of sound-proofing it.

Does covering the walls with a sound-absorbing foam make sense?

My plan is to cover the area around the server, potentially also adding another partition of the sound-proof foam around the machine to further dampen the noise.

Any recommendations? The room is approx 2m by 1m, so quite a small one.

EDIT1&2:

Further advice suggests that a sound-dampening box around the server may be a good solution - what would be a good material to use? The noise producing machine is Dell 2950 (see link for example of the sound)

EDIT3:

I've taken a sample of the noise using my phone see image: noise spectrum. From what I can see, after the fans initially spin up, they settle down at just below 1kHz. Then, at the bottom is most likely the PSU fan, which spins normally at 4kRPM, half speed of the main fans. Hard to read the scale but I guess the main band is just over 0.1kHz. Although the colour may indicate similar pressure, the PSU fans are much less audible.

Easier than sound-proofing a room would be to build a sound-proof box for the server using the triangular foam. Since it's a rack-mount server, just building some ducts for the front and the back and lining the ducts with the triangular foam you linked to above may be enough.

An even better alternative might be to replace the system fans with low noise counterparts.

Keep in mind that exposed foam on a wall is a fire hazard, and could be a code violation.  Foam itself needs to be covered in 1/2" drywall, or other firebreak.


What is the maximum number of branches on one circuit? Just curious. Is there a maximum number of junction boxes (and then branches coming off of those junction boxes) that one circuit is allowed by code to have?

Could you theoretically just continue to add junction boxes to one main line of power and split that power into new branches over and over?

No, and also, no. But perhaps a qualified yes.

No limit on number of junctions/branches per circuit, unless it's been added at the local level. And even then, reports I've seen here of inspectors with some number of end-use boxes in mind as a limit don't care if the boxes are all in a line or madly branched every which way.

But you will soon run out of available power to run devices at the same time; Or you won't meet required VA per square foot requirements; Or, you will be lacking adequate overcurrent protection.

Of course, if you care to modify your interpretation to include the breaker boxes along the way that DO provide the current limiting, "adding breaker boxes and junction boxes to one main line of power" is exactly what your house and even neighborhood power system looks like. There just happen to be a larger number of branches at a few breaker boxes to deal with the overcurrent protection.

Yes there is a limit the easy way to figure it out so you won't pop the breaker . The formula is volts times amps = watts or watts divided volts = amps or watts divided by amps = volts example  you have 120 volts you have a 10 amp breaker 120 x 10 1200 watts meaning you can run a maximum of (12) 100 watt light bulbs . Always know approximately what you may be running if the circuit and wattage at any time run the formula the only thing that you can change is the ampsof the fuse or breaker  from 10,15,20,30,40 amps be certain to have the appropriate gauge wire. Always turn of the main breaker to the box and check with volt meter before servicing.


How can I cut a bolt off flush with concrete in a corner? I've got the top of an old rusty bolt sticking out the ground in a corner (see image) I've tried flattening it with a heavy hammer. Can't get a hacksaw in there. Suggestions for leveling that bolt to the surface?

Since it appears to be in dirt, dig it out would appear to be an option. If there's actually concrete under the dirt, chisel it out is still an option.

I'm unclear as to how that's not accessible to a hacksaw - looks plenty accessible to me. Other than a hacksaw, a sawzall (reciprocating saw) or angle grinder with cutoff disk are typical powertool approaches. An oxy-acetylene cutting torch would be another way.

An angle grinder or oscillating multitool would do the trick.


Why do I have a vent stack if none of my fixtures are vented? As far as I can tell, none of my plumbing fixtures are vented. I have a double-sink in the kitchen, but no vent pipe. My washroom (photo here) similarly has an s-trap. Same thing on my washing machine and drain basin (photo).

I can see a large black pipe poking out of my roof, just about where the drain lines are going into the floor. So I assume I have a main vent stack, but what does it do in my case? Why do I have a main vent stack if none of my fixtures are vented?

If it helps to identify typical construction methods, my house is about 80 years old and located in Toronto, Canada.

Your system is almost certainly vented. Plumbing vents provide a path for sewer gases to escape so they don't bubble up through the P traps into your house under pressure (the sewer gases will expand and exert greater than atmospheric pressure), and the vents also keep water pressure from siphoning your traps dry, which would create an easy natural path for sewer gases to infiltrate your home.

So the comment about "wet venting" is right on target. As long as the combination of pipe diameter, the slope of the pipe and the distance between the trap and the vent ensure that the pipe doesn't run full of water (creating a siphon), a single downstream vent can be just fine.

Of course your system is vented. If it was not vented it would not drain properly (if at all). The vent riser pipe is connected to your waste pipe system inside your walls, where you cannot see.

If you wish you could open the wall below where the vent riser is and educate yourself on the configuration. This would lead to significant wall repair so I would suggest going to your local library and checking out a book about residential plumbing design. Your taxes already pay for operation of the library, you might as well take advantage of the opportunity.


How do I run a 3 Phase/1hp TEFC motor off of a regular household outlet? I recently bought a brand new TECO-Westinghouse Electric motor .

3 phase
HP: 1
Volts : 208-230/460
RPM: 1750
HZ: 60
Fr: 56
Cat no: ZA.0014TE2/56
Type : AEFAZA
Enclosure : TEFC

I would like to run this off of my household power. My understanding is that I need a 1 phase(household) to three phase converter to do this.
What size wires do  I need for the plug from from the house to the on/off switch? From the switch to the converter and from the converter to the motor?

I would like to plug this into a regular 15 amp receptacle-the motor will be about 75 feet from the receptacle.

I'm sorry, but from the tone of your question, and the fact that you even suggest plugging this motor into a regular 15A receptacle tells me you are so far over your head your only valid option is to hire a pro to wire this. This is NOT a simple DIY job and you cannot simply ask questions to get every little detail out of an internet message board to do this job properly and safely.

I'm sure I'll get negative marks for this answer but I stand by it firmly.

The other, and cheaper option is to unload this 3-phase motor and get a single-phase motor. I bet a 1hp single-phase motor is cheaper than the phase converter itself. 1HP is not that big and single-phase versions are readily available.
You'll still need a new dedicated circuit for it but it'll save you quite a bit in the long run.

A Steinmetz connection is what you're after!


conduit for ground in metal shop Ive run my EMT conduit and placed my boxes in my workshop and placed the wires.   All is good except... my inspector says I cant use conduit as ground and must run a bare or green conductor to each box/outlet...  I dont want to get into rules/lawyering but what NEC line tells me (him) that conduit is OK for residential grounding.  My city (Tucson) is on the 2017 NEC rev.

Am I reading this wrong?:

250.118 Types of Equipment Grounding Conductors.  The equipment grounding conductor run with or enclosing the circuit conductors shall be one or more or a combination of the following:
(1) A copper, aluminum, or copper-clad aluminum conductor. This conductor shall be solid or stranded; insulated, covered, or bare; and in the form of a wire or a busbar of any shape.
(2) Rigid metal conduit.
(3) Intermediate metal conduit.
(4) Electrical metallic tubing. ...

and this:

358.60 Grounding.  EMT shall be permitted as an equipment grounding conductor.

Yeah, that's wrong. The inspector ought to know better; clearly does not inspect a whole lot of commercial installations.
Gently stand up on the point and show him the code, and leave him a path to keep his ego intact (that is less than you pulling a bunch of pointless ground wires).  That's part of negotiating.
By the way, if you do pull the trigger on pulling ground wires, the ground wires go to the boxes not the receptacles.  They land on a 10-32 ground screw (which doesn't need to be green), which goes into the hole in the back of the box already tapped 10-32.  When bringing a ground to any metal box, you must go to the box first. Once that's done, if you also want to bring ground to the recep, you can do that also e.g. via pigtailing. #1 mistake I see grounding metal boxes.
In cases like yours, where the recep will have hard flush metal contact between its yoke and the junction box mud ring or domed cover, that is a valid grounding path and ground wires are not needed.  So remove that little paper square that captures the receptacle screw!
On switches it's even easier, you don't even need to remove the paper square and you only need screw-head contact with the yoke.

Legal or not, it's no longer a good practice to use only the conduit as the EGC (electrical grounding conductor) because of the predominance of electronic equipment. Electroni power supplies of all kinds create Common Mode Noise and that needs a solid ground path to avoid becoming a problem in your system. As conduit connections age and corrode, it adds resistance to the ground path and CM noise finds another path, sometimes through expensive sensitive equipment. The NEC is only concerned with safety, not equipment life.


Filling a crack in hardwood floor (between house and extension) I have a cinder block house that has a wooden frame sunroom extension. The house is from 30's, and the extension is at least 40 years old. There is a visible gap (about 1/4inch wide and fairly long) in hardwood floor where the house and the extension meet. Through this gap cold air enters in the winter. We had an inspection by structural engineer, who assured us that there is no structural problem. I am looking to fill the gap. Is silicone caulk good idea? If not, what should I use?

Black caulk is what I used to fill the ~1/4" gaps in a timber floor hallway. The hallway consists of three, thirty foot long boards that are 13" wide and +2" deep. They have, what has become, a dark polyurethane finish, so I'd have to say it looks fabulous  (I had lived there for years and they began to split apart, so not having a gap that can cut you toes open is awesome in the first place). Yours will end up looking like a threshold, but there's nothing worse than light colored wood filler, IMO.

You can use a matching color if you want, but anything less than black with show dirt eventually anyway. It's kinda like grout lines, but for wood. But unlike grout (or the mixture of polyurethane and sawdust –from said boards– that we used to fill the gaps at first, it won't crack when the floor expands and contracts seasonally, or from further settling).

I do believe we'd urethaned over the whole thing at some point afterwards, and should it happen to flake off of the caulk (not that it has AFAIK), at least for a while it provided some level of protection from debris embedding themselves.

Specialty (grout) colored caulk is available for wood-to-tile transitions; look into that kind if you really want to match the color of your hardwood.


Badly chewed exterior door frame I have a three-season sun porch off the back of the house. When the dog was younger and out there, he just chewed the heck out of the door frame. There's a framing piece, perpendicular to the face of the door, that has a gap where weatherstripping slots in, and that's been destroyed/chewed off to right about the door handle. From inside, you can see daylight between the door and frame. In winter, there's just cold air rushing in, and of course it looks terrible.
Is there an option besides completely replacing the door and frame with a new pre-hung door?
It's more a problem of stock/availability during Covid than cost, I just can't seem to find the same type of door in stock or shipped before spring. I've had to repair chewed interior door frames, but this seems like a bigger problem, or I'm just not seeing how to go about it.

That jamb is too far gone to be trying to fix it with a dremel, IMHO. You can buy new replacement jambs and just replace that side for not much money.
Have you tried salvage yards, used building material stores to find a match?

I'd use a tool like the Dremel oscillating cutter like this, but obviously with a different blade (many different blades are available), cut out the damaged bits as cleanly as possible and then nail or glue in a board to replace the part cut out. Caulk and paint and you should be good to go.


How can I soften the clicking sound of a light switch I am renovating my house. The contractor has rewired my house and installed rocker switches for my lighting. The big button looks good. But flipping the switch produces a loud snapping sound. Short of replacing those switches, is there a way to soften the audible click whenever I flip the wall switch?

Not really.  Your option is pretty much replace the switch with a quieter one.  Switches are $2 to $5.

Since SE archives questions, I'll mention that some switches are loud because they are special switches rated to switch high current - in that case, don't downgrade.

Is it mounted on wood or plywood surface?

The loud snapping sound probably due to the the vibration amplification by the surface on which the rocker switch is mounted on.

The very first thing you could do is try install a layer of felt or similar soft material between the contact surfaces of the switch and the wall on which its mounted on.

This should reduce the sound significantly.  If its still loud for you, go one step further to disassemble the switch and stuff the moving nonconductive parts with damping grease.

https://www.rocol.com/products/kilopoise-high-viscosity-damping-grease

Here you can find about the grease I am talking about.


Elecrical panel box. Does it need a cover? I have a 200 amp electrical panel. It's all sealed, but the breaker switches are visible. My question is, do I need a cover or a door to hide the breakers from view? Reason I'm asking, the insurance company came and said I need to cover it. If that's the case, when I bought it and got it installed, why wouldn't have come with a door with a hinge to close?

National Electrical code does not require a door to cover breaker handles.  It does require a cover that prevents access to electrified parts, which must have all openings closed.  A panel without a door is not a violation, but a panel without a cover is.

However, this might be a requirement of the bank, or some other local amendment or code.

You should have a door for the breaker panel. Look up NFPA 70 search for Service Panel , Circuit Breaker Panel - you should find where the code declares a requirement for the door panel.


Above Ground rigid steel conduit over creek I am running 3" rsc above ground across a 30' creek. I was told I needed a christy box installed on each side of the creek, what are these and how do I install them?

Christy is one of the many companies that make handhole boxes (like a minature manhole) for underground conduit / cable.  It gives you access to pull or splice at junction points on an underground cable / conduit rum.

I am going to assume the rigid conduit goes into the bank of the stream on either side and a direct burial cable will go in the pipe, or a direct burial cable will be spliced to something else at those points.

So someone suggested you'll need a handhole at those splice or pull points, which is correct.

(Unrelated to the question, also assuming the cable is supported by a bridge or something because you can't span 30' with unsupported conduit, and that the poster is aware the permitting for things crossing streams can be ridiculously difficult.)

A "christy" box is a semi-buried box that has the cover exposed.  Also called a "pull box" or a "quazite box" these are used to start and terminate a cable run outdoors.  Usually made from a cement-base compound, they are available from local electrical supply houses.

Why, however, are you wanting to run the line above ground?  The line will be vulnerable to anything being carried down the creek.  Have you considered having it horizontally bored in?


What is the method to seal a concrete roof? We are staying in a home which has a concrete roof. Now we are facing leakage in the roof during rainy seasons. What do we have to do? How do we protect the roof from leaks?

Concrete itself is not waterproof, in fact, it's more like a sponge, so concrete alone is never used to create an impermeable surface. You haven't provided much info - is the roof flat, sloped? What is already up there?  There are tons of different waterproofing methods available.

Going under the assumption that it was properly waterproofed at some point, you need to figure out why it's leaking.   Maybe there is damage to the roof, or maybe there is a drainage problem and water is just building up and finding its way in. Also possible is that the flashing around a vent or access hole has been bent away and water is getting behind it. Either way, you will first need to investigate and resolve the root problem and then fix it in-line with how it was already constructed.  If the roof is tarred, you are not going to put down some other barrier.

You will without a doubt have to go on the roof to check it out. If you're not comfortable with this, its best to call a roofing expert.

Try Blue Bond with tile adhesive. Make it runny and apply it with a roller.


What is the best way to remove and prevent leaf stains on concrete pavers? We have a brand new paver stone walkway/patio. To my dismay, I noticed that their were leaf and acorn stains from the oak tree in the front yard. I've learned my lesson and I'm going to try to keep the walkway swept more regularly.

Will these stains go away with enough rain & time? If not, what's the best remedy for removing these stains? What's the best mode of prevention?

The tannins from oak leaves will leave stains behind. I would suggest not worrying about it. Those stains are just character, part of nature. Choose to appreciate nature.

You could probably bleach them out (using simple chlorine bleach or oxalic acid), but why? Why introduce harmful chemicals into the area that may hurt you or damage your plants? Besides, the bleach may not get everything consistently the same color as it was. So you may just leave yourself with another problem to solve.

Sunlight will cause them to fade over time anyway, and as other stains occur, the pavers will become randomly stained, eventually all to the same color.

Sometimes the easiest answer to a problem is the simplest. What I do to avoid  leaf stain's  is to simply sweep the deck when it is wet from rain and the leaf stains come right off. It is best to remove the leaves as soon as possible, but if that is not possible than the surface should be wetted and than swept.


Why do my bulbs glow brighter when the microwave is running? When I run the microwave oven in my rented apartment, the incandescent lights nearby glow much brighter.

What sort of mis-wiring could cause this?

EDIT: Suspecting a bad neutral connection, I measured the voltage between hot and neutral at a nearby electrical outlet.  The voltage was 113 VAC.  When running the microwave, that same voltage goes up to 129 VAC.

The voltage at that outlet measured between hot and ground is the same as between hot and neutral (i.e. it also increases when the microwave is running).

On the same circuit as the microwave, the voltage is 126 VAC without the microwave and 108 with it running.

I assume this means that the neutral and/or ground connections to the house may be faulty?

The problem was a bad neutral connection from the transformer on a pole.

I called the power company--they had trucks out to replace the power line within 30 minutes.

Now the power variation is very small.  Without the microwave running, I measure 117.5 volts on the lamp circuit and 118.2 volts on the microwave circuit.  With the microwave running, the voltages go to 118.2 and 114.0 VAC.

More headaches are caused by floating/open, high resistance/loose, corroded,bad connections anywhere along the neutral in any 120VAC phase to neutral system!
Neutals are current carrying conductors in single phase 120VAC systems which need to be properly grounded and have a clean low impedance connection all the way back to their source of power;.. the utility Transformer!
The Utility Transformer neutral connection as well needs to be properly grounded!

The same headaches are encountered in a 12VDC automotive electrical system when the common negative is impaired in any way all the way back to the Vehicle Battery Negative terminal!


what PEX fittings can I use with a Zurn PEX QickClamp Crimp Rings? I have Zurn crimp rings and the Zurn ratchet tool.  I was wondering what brass fitting I can use.  Do they need to be Zurn fittings or can they be any crimp fittings?

For example, can I use sharkbite crimp fittings? or do I need to use the Zurn crimp fittings?  They look very similar or I can't tell the difference.   Thanks for any help.

PEX labeled fittings are uniform (essentially). You can use any pex labeled fitting with any pex labeled tubing and any pex labeled crimp ring, provided they are all labeled for the same size tubing and the manufacturers literature shows as astm compliant. For ordinary residential remodeling you don't need to be concerned with pressure ratings of the assembly.
Note that PEX labeled components are for use with potable water only, unless otherwise noted in the manufacturers literature (I don't know of any exceptions but they may be out there).

I believe everything labeled as a "PEX" fitting would be compatible without regard to the brand (other than the tool required to fasten the rings)


Does running a dehumidifier with an AC unit save money? I've done as much research as i can an every site i hit seems to have a different story on my question: "Will a dehumidifier save energy while running your AC through the summer"?

The ones that say "yes" pretty much reason that you usually can raise your thermostat a few degrees because of the lower humidity it will "feel" more comfortable. While they reason that yes AC do dehumidify also but it will put less of a load on your AC system.

The ones that say "no" say AC units doesn't run optimally when a dehumidifier is running (they don't go into details). Also, by design, dehumidifiers heat the air. How much of a difference that makes, i don't know.

That being said dehumidifiers do pull quite a bit of energy (i'm sure not NEARLY the amount of an AC unit though).

I live in zone 5 (central IL). Hot/humid summers and cold/dry winters. I don't need a dehumidifier for the winter (we actually need a humidifier then).

Also, as a lot of you probably already know, current dehumidifiers are some of the most unreliable appliances you can buy. Its one of the few things i know make sure i get an extended warranty for. I'm on my 3rd unit and, one of the reasons i'm here, is to find out if i need to budget for another one. Sure i'm sure there will be days when i could not run the AC and just run the dehumidifier but i don't think there will be enough of those days to warrant a dehumidifier if i really don't need one.

A dehumidifier is about the same as a window AC unit with both parts in the house, for most purposes. They draw just as much power as an A/C unit of similar size (or more if they happen to be old and inefficient.)

Given that the required energy labeling on A/C units tends to promote a degree of of paying attention to that, and it's much less clear on dehumidifiers, I suspect that in many cases the A/C of similar size will actually use less power - and it doesn't make your house hot.

Sure, comparing a room dehumidifier to a whole house A/C, the whole house uses more energy - but it also removes more water from the air, and cools the house. It would only be ANY savings if the whole house was LESS efficient (power in to water out) than the dehumidifier. If you are running the A/C as well, you are also ADDING the heat from the dehumidifier to the A/C load.

In short, run the A/C, don't bother with a dehumidifier unless you have a job that a dehumidifier (alone) is suited for; Which it sounds like you probably don't.

If you want to get "something like that" without the downsides, when your water heater wears out, consider a heat pump water heater - free hot water with a little A/C, or free A/C with your hot water. Still rather expensive, but sometimes with large rebates available too.

My personal experience: our AC wasn't running well in humid weather so we bought a dehumidifier to help it out. It made the room warmer and removed the humidity from the rooms, which according to the technician, the AC actually needed. The AC stopped working at all and the house became warmer. I can't say for certain all things are related but the evidence is there.


Fitting new dimmer to old wiring but I've got four wires and an earth I'm fitting a new dimmer to a switch that controls a single ceiling bulb. Currently the switch has two red wires attached, one top one bottom. I'm guessing that this is live from circuit box and then live to ceiling rose. The two black wires have been connected together with a small box and the green is attached to the metal fixing embedded in the wall.

The dimmer I've bought says to fit a red and a black to terminals c and l1 respectively. Do I choose any two red and black wires? The instructions mention if there are two wires then put them both into the appropriate terminal on the switch but that seems like it would result in a constant connection between the two live wires.

The instructions for that dimmer switch assume that you only have a "switch loop" wired to the switch.
A "switch loop" brings an always-on Live wire down to the switch and carries the switched Live back up to the light fixture.
In this case, the always-on Live should be Red and the switched Live return should be Black.
The Neutral side of the power connection stays up at the light and is not brought down to the switch.

But what you have there is the always-on Live and its associated Neutral both brought to the switch, and then the switched Live and Neutral sent up to the light.
The Red wires are the Lives and the Black wires are the Neutrals.
There's no way to know for sure just by looking at your picture which of the Reds is always-on and which runs up to the light.
The switched Live should be marked somehow and it's possible that the red tape wrapped around one of the red wires is intended to be that mark.
But in your case it doesn't really matter because your dimmer doesn't care.

Just disconnect the 2 red wires from the old switch and connect them to the 2 terminals on your new dimmer which the instructions tell you to use (C and L1).

Also, as RedGrittyBrick pointed out, your new dimmer has an Earth terminal which your old switch did not.
This terminal must be connected to the green Earth wire in the box using a wire with green/yellow insulation.

The green is ground, that should stay connected to the box.  I cannot see where the two black wires are connecting.  It is normal to have two of positive  and negative  wires


Is it safe to use an angle grinder with wood cutting blades? Being a newbie to DIY and trying to get more and more jobs done myself, safety is a concern to me. I recently bought a Makita 5" angle grinder to cut some metal balustrades, job done. I considered buying some wood cutting discs for it, which I have seen on-line - to do a few odd jobs around the house, but I found some dated Internet posts that strongly recommended against it, for the safety concern, I am guessing that it's for the grinder losing control. These posts where about 5 or 6 years old and from reading through, wood cutting discs were something not available then either. Now I wanted to ask the question again, am I safe to do so or is it a bad idea? Additional information - the kind of jobs I am thinking of using it for, would be mostly softwood and not thicker than 20 mm.

Bad idea...explained later. But yes, as long as you keep the blade guard on & of course it will "work". Though, it's quite wild compared to a Circular Saw or a smaller Trim Saw. However, "safely" is a bad gamble.

You're talking about multiples of higher RPM's & both accuracy & control will then be largely out the window compared to proper devices. One big problem area is ever so slightly twisting your cut (which is normal & not just common with grinders) & that twist binds to instantly & literally toss the grinder at you or any part of you or anyone else close by.

Grinders usually don't have a braking mechanism & very slowly free-spin down to a stop, you don't want to be the braking mechanism.

I don't know if this blade design existed when you first asked the question but it seems to me that this would work for demo or very rough cuts. I will use it to cut off Cypress knees.

https://www.amazon.com/King-Arthurs-Tools-35818-Squire/dp/B00004RHL9/ref=asc_df_B00004RHL9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167125219398&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14499310927687167237&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011791&hvtargid=pla-313102780220&psc=1


Ceiling fan light will not turn off using pull cord The pull cord for my ceiling fan light was broken (“stripped” so to speak) and the only way to turn off the light but still use the fan was to archanely unscrew light bulbs a bit. A new pull cord was put in. But the light still will not turn off with the new cord. All wire connections are correct. Help!

Check for a wall switch that may have been overlooked. Also check for a remote that may control the light. Check with a voltage meter the power wire to the light (usually Blue or Black) is energized. Check the pull switch with Ohms setting to verify continuity.


What is the proper way to install windows on the house that is not level My house is sloped at least 1/8" per 1' along the front side. It also has long horizontal siding. So if windows are installed level it may be pretty noticeable. Leveling the house is not an option. So I wonder how can I minimize visual effect of the difference in levels between house and windows.

Should windows be installed parallel to the siding (and be out of level like old ones) or should they be exactly level (and what do I do to minimize visual effect)? Or should they be installed lets say with 1/16 angle - is it still ok?

Installing opening windows out of plumb (out of level), will make them hard to open and close, and may affect their ability to seal well. If the windows are fixed, this is less of a problem.

If you install them level, the most noticeable issue will be the top and bottom, probably not the sides. You can address this by being creative with casings, the molding around the windows. If you put a shallow triangular pediment across the top, it will mask the angle difference between the window and siding.

An alternative is a curved facia board at the top, or any other combination that breaks up the horizontal line.

The bottom could be handled similarly, but there is less tradition of decorative moldings or pediments at the bottom of things. A straight, stepped molding might also break it up.

SUPPLEMENT: Based on the additional information, 1/8" in one foot is not a lot of lean. I would still hang them plumb and mask it with the moldings. You could rip cut the molding on a slight angle to split the difference. Also, having the moldings NOT end at the edge of a siding board makes variances harder to notice.

Always install your windows level and plumb to make sure your window functions properly. Adjust your trim or siding if you have to but don't unloved your window it won't function correctly.

His video had good information that I found helpful. Hope it worked out. Here's a link:

https://youtu.be/8FLp4KRK7Qw


GFCI receptacle and 3-way switches I have replaced a bathroom outlet with a GFCI. The first outlet from the circuit breaker is the bathroom outlet.

The circuit then goes to a switched light outdoors, a switched light to a hallway, then to 3-way switches for kitchen ceiling lights.  When I power on the circuit the bathroom outlet, the outside light, and the hallway light all work correctly.

When I turn on the kitchen lights from either switch, the GFI trips.  The power into the GFCI outlet is connected to the LINE, the output is connected to the LOAD side.

Is it possible to have the 3-way switches for the kitchen lights work properly with this GFCI receptacle?

Thanks

If the kitchen light(s) are tripping the GFCI then there is a problem in one of the lights. They should work just fine on GFCI whether connected to 3-ways or not.

Do not ignore the problem.

Track it down and repair it. The reason GFCI's or circuit breakers trip is because something is broke (technical term). This is your first sign of a problem. Ignore it at your own, and your family's, peril. The next sign could be someone hurt or a fire.

Good luck!

No it won't. It will keep tripping the circuit breaker. You can't run a GFCI outlet to a 3 way wire, it won't work. You wouldn't want to do that anyway. It's not safe and could be a potential fire hazard


Dishwasher Hose Clamps won't open This will come across as a silly question but I cannot open up the hose clamp for my dishwasher's drain tube. I need to unhook/open the tube, clean its head, then reattach. The metal clamp simply won't open, when I use screwdriver, the screw simply won't come out, it just becomes loose in its place but there is no way to take it out. I'm not sure how pliers would help either because I tried pulling the screw out and it didn't work either.

NOTE: I need to use the same hose , so I cannot break this hose. It's FAR beyond my expertise to change the whole tube, I'm just trying to clean the head to open it up. So I need to be able to reattach it.

Thank you very much for your help.

UPDATE:
Sorry for my bad wording: I don't need to reuse/keep the clamp, I just need to keep/maintain the tube/hose because changing it requires taking out the whole dishwasher. My dilemma is cutting the clamp without damaging the hose now.

The END SOLUTION:
Lots of great answers, comments and suggestions. I ended up actually forcing (force pulling) the tube/hose, and took it out. Once it was out, it was easy to just slip the shot clamp!

Based on other answers and comments, I'm hoping I can provide some help by bringing together some of the relevant information into one answer.

How it works

As @user1289451 pointed out, the "screw" is technically a worm gear. However, instead of the threads on the worm turning a gear, it is advancing the band by engaging the slots and moving the band forward and backwards. Because one side of the band is secured, then this forward and backwards motion results in widening or narrowing the band around the hose.

Loosen the connections

It sounds like the screw is turning, but if something seems seized anywhere, pick up some PB Blaster from your local hardware store. It will help free frozen joints. If you are screwing the worm drive and nothing is happening, then the threads or the band are so rusted out that the threads are not making contact with the band. As such, the only thing holding the clamp together would likely be rust/corrosion. Spray PB Blaster into the housing and let it sit for a while (check can for durations). When you come back, attempt to use pliers/flat head screwdriving to get leverage on the band itself using the slots and simply pull it apart.

Use a nut driver (To loosen it)

I would also second what @gregmac said in his comment. When loosening this, it is highly recommended to use a nut driver (or an appropriately sized socket if it's not 1/4") to loosen this. Between slippage and stripping the screwdriver slot, a nut driver will save you lots of headache. However, when you reattach the existing or a new hose clamp, be careful when using your nut driver because it is very easy to overtighten the clamp, possibly damaging the metal/plastic/copper hose/pipe to which you are clamping.

Replace the clamp

I'm not entirely clear on why you need to resuse the clamp as you can replace just that part with a part from a local hardware store. In fact, if you are unclear about its operation, I would recommend a trip to your local hardware store and looking at hose clamps in the store and playing around with them so you understand what how it operates under normal conditions. I would recommend replacing this if at all possible to avoid issues if service of the same connection is required in the future. If you need to cut the clamp, there are several ways to do it. If you want to avoid damaging the hose at all possible costs, then a hacksaw through the top of the wormgear housing might be your best bet. Once you've broken through to the worm itself, use a pair of pliers to bend/twist/open up the housing so that the band moves freely (since it will have not resistance against the worm anymore). You could attempt to cut the band, but this has a much higher chance of damaging the hose.

Pipe replacement

If you get to the point where you need to replace the metal pipe itself, or even any portion of the dishwasher hose, look into using Pex piping. I know it seems scary, but Pex makes plumbing much simpler and with a little research you should be able to replace part or all of the pipe if necessary. The damaged section can be cut back and a piece of PEX can be cut and inserted in the line and secured with a crimp clamp. With a little care, almost any size pipe or hose can be replaced with PEX.

Use an 5/16" socket wrench. gets best leverage and covers the entire nut for torque.


How to put up a very small barrier on concrete to stop water running past it I have a concrete driveway that leads to the garage, with a very slight slope towards the garage.

When it really rains hard, the water comes down into the garage.

I don't want a very high barrier, just about an inch I guess would do.

What is the best way to do this please?

I will explore both good answers but cannot rebuild the driveway whilst I do have an appreciation for water and what it can do. This little wall will actually divert water from the garage wall to a channel that runs away from the property.

Glue-down garage door seal (sometimes called threshold seal) sounds like what you want. A rubber bump.

My advice is never, and I mean NEVER fool around with water. Don’t just put some small barrier, because then water will stop at the barrier and from there God knows where will it go from there. You can cause much bigger damage than it is now. I know that you not going to like what I'm about to say but you really should rebuild entire driveway properly.


What is the proper way to clean a paintbrush and metal pan with KleanStrip paint thinner? I am finishing my hardwood floors tonight with an oil-based polyurethane. I bought a natural bristle paintbrush and a metal pan, as well as some KleanStrip paint thinner that is "made with Mineral Spirits".

At the end of the poly job I'd like to use the paint thinner to clean both the brush and the pan to make them reusable for future projects. What's the proper/best way? How much thinner do you use? How long does it take to work?

I guess I'm worried that if I use too much or just simply "dunk" the paintbrush in the thinner and leave it too long that I'll ruin my tools.

When I use oil based products I use disposable pan liners so cleanup means let it dry-up and throw it away. To clean brushes I use a brush spinner to remove as much material as possible. I swish the brush in a container of mineral spirits and brush a piece of dry cardboard to get out some more of the urethane. Finally I soak the brush for a couple of days in a covered glass jar that has just enough mineral spirits to cover the bristles. After everything is clean I set the mineral spirits filled container in the sun uncovered until it evaporates. I would not dump it on the ground! If you cannot find a way to dispose of it contact your municipal public works dept. Most cities have an annual hazardous waste drop-off.

If it says "made with Mineral Spirits" its safe to dispose of however. This means its made from all-natural minerals; I usually just dump it out on the lawn to get it away from the house.

Edit - please do not dump onto lawn or onto ground, as there are in deed aquifers  above the bedrock layer that can absorb the Arsenic that KleanStrip contains and pool them into drinking water supplies.

Instead, pour them directly down the sink, taking care not to splash and get any on your skin.


Why would it matter whether a front-loading washer is upstairs? We have an old front-loading Maytag Neptune washing machine.  The bearings are going bad.  I'm looking into having someone swap the bearings out for me, but also considering getting a new machine.

I found that Puget Sound Energy has a program where they will give customers a free washing machine under some circumstances!  But here's the weird part: they will give a free front-loader only if it will be installed at ground level or in a basement; for upstairs they will only give a top-loader.  The relevant quote:

  You'll receive a free ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washer that fits in the same spot as your old one. If your new washer will be installed on the first-floor or basement level, you can choose a front-load model. Or you can choose a top-load washer for any level of your home.

http://www.pse.com/SAVINGSANDENERGYCENTER/FORHOMES/Pages/Free-Appliance-Replacement.aspx

Why would PSE have a policy like this?

P.S. Our washer/dryer closet is upstairs, by the bedrooms.  We love the front-loader so I'd rather not accept a top-loader even if it's free.  But I am really wondering if there is something I ought to worry about if I'm picking a new machine.

EDIT: I have accepted an answer.  I am certain that vibration is the issue.  I will just be sure to buy a washer with low vibration.  One brand of washer actually has a "Second-Floor Guarantee" and I might buy that brand.

Thanks to all who answered.

Front Loaders spin at an incredibly high rate compared to top loads. Because of this, the amount of vibration that is transferred to the structure is immense compared to the top loaders of days past.

A concrete slab is the ideal substrate, as it will absorb all vibration. But if the home has a solid joist system and subfloor, they are viable. However, there will still be noticeable vibration. We have a 1989 built home (also in Puget Sound) that, alas, doesn't handle the front-loader washer we just bought a few months ago as well as we'd like. I will be installing lolly columns in the crawl space to reinforce the laundry room floor. If that doesn't cure things, it looks like I'll eventually be building a laundry room in our garage.

The reason they are not allowed on second floors has nothing to do with leaking (as that's a risk of ANY washer, of course) but because the live load requirements for residential construction differ between the main floor and the second floor.

I can't find a direct source to cite (if anyone can find one, please share!) but IIRC, the live load requirements for the main floor of a house is 40psf, but the live load requirements for sleeping areas on a second floor are less at 30psf.

A front load washing machine, in spin cycle, is a very "live load"*. :)

The bottom line is that in the US, the typical construction of second floors aren't equipped to handle the abuse of a front-loader washing machine.

You could probably get an exception if you reinforce the flooring in the second floor room that will house the washer. But that's likely not going to be cheap--ultimately costing you more than the savings in energy you get with the front loader. I believe PSE's top loader option is still a high efficiency appliance, though, so you'll still see a savings in energy with that. It just won't rattle your house quite as much.

UPDATE:

Found the load tables. Here's an excerpt:

From the International Residential Building Codes

TABLE R301.5 MINIMUM UNIFORMLY
DISTRIBUTED LIVE LOADS
(in pounds per square foot)

USE                                 LIVE LOAD
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Habitable attics and attics
served with fixed stairs            30

Rooms other than sleeping room      40

Sleeping rooms                      30

(*) NOTE: As ben points out--and as I attempted to point out with the smiley face--the fact that washer vibrates a lot isn't what makes it a 'live load' necessarily in the eyes of building code. My point was that the upper floor is just built to a different standard than the main floor. That said, I do see the broad definition of live load also includes vibration: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Structural_load#Live_loads

I would assume it's because of liability; they will be installing the unit in your house. A leak in or above a basement has a good chance of having a negligible effect, whereas a second floor leak is an immediate thousand bucks. Maybe they're just being considerate; front-loaders will leak.


What should I look for in purchasing a replacement recessed light? I have existing recessed lighting that currently has incandescent bulbs in it.  I want to replace the incandescent bulbs and existing trim with a new LED fixture.  The problem that I am having is that my can seems to be about 4 7/8th inches in diameter.  I have tried both a fixture for 4 inch cans and a fixture for 5 & 6 inch cans and neither option fit.  Is my can a non-standard size or do I need to look for something else when purchasing new fixtures?

Here is what my existing can looks like.  To me, this is a 4 7/8ths inch diameter can.  But is that considered a 5 inch can?

This was a LED light that should work with 5 or 6 inch recessed light cans, it didn't fit at all:

Unfortunately, many LED retrofit kits do not fit the standard incandescent housing. You may find yourself trying many before finding one that works. Each manufacturer may have slight differences. In addition,  if you find one to fit, you may have other issues, such as dimming mismatched technology or tripping breakers. If you are only looking to reuse the actual cans, and change out all other componants, you may utilize your time and money more productively by purchasing complete kits and replacing the entire can.  You may not actually have to even adapt the side of the hole, as the attachments used in many manufactures kits allow for some devience. A major plus, you have a complete lighting system that
comes with everything included. Good luck!

hi look for small time manufacturers who make retrofits they can match your can size..


Cut plaster hole, without hole saw, options? I need to cut one 6" hole for a can light into a plaster ceiling and don't want to spend the money on a hole saw. What are my best options?

Your best option is a jab saw and a steady hand.

If your question is how to do it while spending no money the answer is substituting the saw blade in a multi-tool or Swiss Army Knife. Failing that, scoring the plaster with a utility or X-acto and carefully breaking it out.

Although it's not the cheapest option, it's only $20. A jab saw may be half the price but with this drill bit you will make a precise circular cut. AND it's adjustable and allows you to cut anywhere from 1-3/4 to 7-7/8" circular holes. So it gives you a lot of versatility.

This one is on amazon but you can buy it online through the Home Depot website:

Heavy Duty Circle Cutter

enter image description here

I'm glad you started this thread because I am going to buy one for myself.


What size wire and breaker should I use for a small one bedroom cottage? Have a small one bedroom cottage. I need to install a subpanel in it. I have a two hundred amp panel 30 feet away. The only things I will power in the cottage are two can lights, six outlets, small window unit and a small refrigerator. What gauge wire should I run to the subpanel? Also what size breaker as the main should I use in the sub?

If I were you, I'd go as follows (assuming US split 240v)

Run 8 gauge THHN from your main panel to your subpanel (in buried conduit) and use a 50A breaker in the main. Run 4 wires so you get 240v and ground. Should be more than sufficient for anything you can throw at it and you can always expand if needed. Be sure to ground your panel to a grounding rod while you're at it.
Run your lights on a single 15A breaker. Makes adding lights easier, it's cheaper (14 gauge wire and 15A switches, and don't forget to add neutrals to the switch boxes!) and you won't be in the dark if you blow a breaker in the subpanel
Run a 15A breaker to a single dedicated outlet for your AC. It's overkill, but I'm assuming you have a 5k-6k BTU window unit. That's 6-7 amps, which is a lot to share with other outlets, even on 20A (especially with 2-3A for a fridge). If you ever decide to upsize, you have no worries about rewiring it either.
Run the rest of your outlets on one 20A circuit (12 gauge wire). Don't skimp and run them on 15A because you have a lot of 14 gauge wire. You'll regret it the first time you pop that 15A breaker.

(Not an electrician; if one shows up, listen to them instead. Also, I'm assuming America, or at least a 120V country.)

As I noted in my comment, one 20 amp circuit could handle the load you specified. However, there's always something you've forgotten, so I'd recommend going bigger. (Consider the load of someone running a microwave (10 amp), a hotplate (10 amps), a hairdryer (10 amps), and other stuff (10 amps). You can easily hit 30 amps of usage just from kitchen equipment.) The difference in cost isn't that big, so I don't see a good reason to go below 40 amp, and you should go higher if you expect even a remote chance of people cooking in the cottage.

As for the wire sizes, a 40 amp breaker needs at least 8 gauge wire. (And remember to get outdoors-rated wire and protect it properly.)

https://www.totalhomesupply.com/wires-and-circuit-breakers


Is a 100 amp transfer switch adequate for a 15KW generator? I want to add a 15KW standby generator to my 200 amp house The generator came with a 100amp transfer switch. Is this arrangement ok or should I get a 200 a transfer switch?

Installing a 200A transfer switch will do you no good unless you're planning on buying a 48KW generator soon. Your transfer switch is suitable.  Your generator cannot produce 100A so you need to be watchful of what loads you switch on, careful that neither phase exceeds 62.5A and that the two phases are in balance within the limits in your generator documentation.   If you don't do that your generator can brown out or stall.
If you use the 100A transfer switch with 100A breakers you need to use a feed wire suitable for 100A between the generator, switch, and panel.   You could use the 100A transfer switch with 60A breakers, then you can use lighter feed wiring and you'll pop the breakers before browning out.  Even then you have to watch the balance of the phases.

I'm surprised no-one has asked yet how this will be installed!  Clearly it can't be put between the meter and a 200 amp service unless it the xfer switch was upgraded to 200 amps.   So that implies moving some circuits to a sub-panel and all that entails. at 15,000 watts, I'm assuming the xfer switch is automatic...not one of those silly expensive generac types with a power inlet and a bunch of breaker you have to manually choose to turn on...reminds me of the electrical supply of that old sitcom, "Green acres".
If the OP wants "whole house" backup, meaning EVERYTHING, the best choice is the xfer switch goes between the meter and the main panel. But that technically turns the main panel into a sub-panel (neutral isolated from ground). The xfer switch will also have to be rated for "service disconnect", meaning it must have it's own 200 amp breaker.
So, once again, as I hate to say: It depends. If the OP can live with the most important circuits moved to a sub-panel with the xfer switch between the main panel and the sub-panel, that might be the least expensive and most practical approach.   If not, the OP has to upgrade the xfer switch to 200A, has to  get the POCO to pull the meter, get an electrician to install the xfer switch in between the meter and main panel and make sure the previously main panel conforms to sub-panel code.
I'm probably answering more than the OP asked, but just wanted him/her to know all the pro/cons of their choice...not just if the xfer switch could handle the load.


Use cat5e 2-pair RJ11 cabes for network connection I've thought cat5(e) means always RJ45 lan cable.
But my house has "cat5e 2-pair rj11 green (data) cables" from the living room to each room. My internet router is in my living room in the 1st floor (XFinity).
What I want to do is to connect the Internet line from my router through the green cat5e rj11 cable to two upstairs rooms.
My problem is how to connect from my router(RJ45) to the port RJ11 on the wall of living room and from the port RJ11 in the room to my other Internet devices (RJ45).

Is there any easy adaptor available?

The best solution you can arrange for 2-pair cables will be limited to 100 Mbits/second (or 10 times slower than the current most common standard wired ethernet speed.)

Rather than looking for an adapter (dubious at best - any you find will likely be intended for telephone signals rather than data), I'd suggest just removing the RJ-11 jacks, and replacing them with Cat5e RJ-45 jacks.

You'll connect your two pairs to the "Orange & White/orange and Green & White/green" marked terminals (1,2,3,6) and ignore the blue/brown marked terminals (4,5,7,8)

Edit: Since the cables have been discovered to be normal 4 pair cables after all, connect all 4 pairs, and Gigabit (1000 Mbits/sec) speeds should be possible across them.

So, it's a dirty little secret that most ethernet twisted pair wiring uses only 2 of the 4 pairs -- at least until recently. But, 4 pair is better for a lot of reasons -- like power over ethernet, redundancy in case of a broken wire, etc.  Also, some old ethernet twisted pair used all four pairs.

As to your question about an adapter -- dunno on that one.  An adapter CABLE that had an RJ-11 on one end and RJ-45 on the other would do the job.  You'd need to make sure that there are pairs that end up connected to pins 1&2 and 3&6.

Sorry I can't point to a specific adapter.  Seems like there would be.  Or maybe you can replace the RJ-11 connectors with RJ-45?


How did the sideboards come to be raised over a hardwood floor? I'm a little puzzled at the position of sideboards in this picture.

I am not covering with carpets. I will remove the sideboards, hopefully without breaking them. Then I'll paint them before re-installing them, and renovate the floor while they're off. I'm assuming that it's all right in the final look for a few nails to remain visible, and that I can be spared having to apply masking tape to the entire perimeter of each room on both sides of the sideboards. Leaving the sideboards high is not an option because it looks ugly and, more importantly, is a recipe for having dust and mites.

My question is: how did the sideboards reach this position. If initially a carpet was installed in this bedroom, I have a hard time believing someone would have used a reasonably decent hardwood (oak? I'm not sure) as a foundation for the carpet.

If the hardwood was initially installed, then the sideboards would not be where they are.

My conclusion is that when I spot this sort of thing (hardwood and elevated sideboards) it means that the room must have gone through three stages:

Hardwood was initially installed.
At some point someone decided to install a carpet. That person raised the sideboards.
In a third renovation someone decided to get rid of the carpet. So they just ripped it and didn't bother to lower the sideboards.

Did the room really have to have gone through these three stages of renovation for the sideboards to be high over a hardwood floor, or is there a simpler explanation?

Plenty of homeowners put carpet over hardwood in the 60s, 70s and 80s. It's not clear why the baseboard and base shoe are elevated, though. Normally shoe isn't used with carpet.

To avoid unsightly lines left on your walls, I'd remove just the shoe, finish the floor, sand and paint the baseboard (in place), then reinstall the shoe tight to the floor.

This is how this happens. See Question - What height to set baseboards before carpet is installed? You're absolutely right that it should NOT be this way at all. And, you can't lower the shoe molding because there's no baseboard or anything to nail or screw to, sorry.

Only if there was a floating laminate floor should there even be a shoe molding & a corresponding gap. Not for carpet, unless you have an inept carpet installer.

You'll have to either remove them & re-install them correctly or spline fill & also caulk the gap into non-existence. The gap will not be perfectly uniform.


Will a 15 amp circuit support the lighting I plan to install? I am in the middle of a basement finishing project and have a question.

I have three circuits for my basement, 2 15 amp and 1 20 amp. I'd like to use one 15 amp for all lights, one 15 amp for eight outlets in the finished part, and one 20 amp for outlets in the shop. For the lights, I came up with the following based on research.

One 15 amp circuit can support 1800 watts, after reading a little, electricians plan for 80% load, so 1440 watts. The new energy efficient lights out there are only 14 watts so I could have up to 102 lights? Way more than I'd need down there.

Are there any issues with this plan? Any code concerns? Thanks.

It looks like you have spent some time and research working on this, well done. We calculate general purpose outlet for dwelling units at 180 W/VA or 1.5A per duplex receptacle. If you have an NEC handbook illustration 220.4 is a great example.

The lighting is a bit of guess work and since we already know the outlets it would be safe to use 1.5 W/VA per square foot of living area to determine the load. Understand that the NEC isn't interested in what you are installing, it's interested in what may be installed by whomever at a later date.

That being said. I don't really see a problem with your thinking, but I do have one question. Are any of these receptacles being used for a specific duty such as a refrigerator or microwave or such. If so they must be calculated at the nameplate rating rather than the general purpose 180W.

My final thought is why not just run all 20 amp circuits and that would insure you for expansion or if you missed something. We call it Value Added Resource. For minimal cost it may pay off in the end.

A mistake that many diy's make with electrical work is installing more circuits and capacity than is needed. So far you haven't mentioned any reason why you couldn't put the entire basement (including the shop) on 1 15 amp circuit. Don't use 12 gauge wire unless you have a good reason to do so. You'll have a much better chance of a neat and safe install with 14.

A few of the things that you should be thinking about:
Are the need for GFCI's, AFCI's and TR receptacles.
What kind of boxes are you going to use for the rec's and sw's?
The circuit layout and not putting more than 2 NM cables per box.
How are you going to run the wire on and through the wall and ceiling framing?


Is there an interior bathroom filter made to exhaust filtered air back into room? I have a bathroom in the basement that has an exhaust fan but it doesn't go anywhere.  I need a filter on it to clear/clean the air and moister.

A bathroom fan needs to vent to the outside, so as to actually remove moisture effectively.

While you could cobble something up with a dehumdifier, there's no good reason to, and plenty of good reasons not to; Which is why you won't find that for sale anywhere.

A dehumidifer does some air filtering, though not enough for odor removal which is one of the best reasons for an air exhaust.

A electrostatic air cleaner might be up to that though.  There are many such dehumidifers.  However, there is some danger that oxygen could be depleted in worst case situations.


What is required to connect solar panels to my home without connecting to the grid? My household has a base power consumption of approx. 200W-300W. I am considering if it was possible to get a reasonably sized solar panel to cover its needs when the sun is up, with a seamless transition to the grid for spikes / low light times.

As I am a complete newbie to solar energy, is a solution like the above feasible? What kind of device would I need to interface, let's say a 300W solar panel to the rest of my system? I am not interested in energy storage / delivery back to the grid, I am just after supplementing my current supply with a bit from the sun.

Typical grid connected installs of solar panels on homes need a couple of items to get them to work (it's not just lets slap some panels up there and wire it into the house).  Solar panels are DC (direct current), your house is AC (alternating current), so a inverter is needed to create the AC current.  Also that AC current needs to be synced to the same wave form that is being feed from the grid, another device (or sometimes packaged in the inverter).  Then the new solar AC is then tied into your main panel, typically requiring another box.  Also depending on the install, the panels might be electrically separated from each other (a good thing) requiring another device.  Once connected, excess power from the panels will feed back into the grid and in some areas this will be credited back to you on your bill.

All said, this work needs to be done with a permit, typically with buy off from the power company on size of panels.  Also for most DIY'ers, this is out of their scope of skill.  Get some quotes from solar panel companies and electricians in your area to get an idea of what you are looking at.

Also look at the cost of the system and how much it is going to save you each month.  Solar is popular here because power goes up to .30 a kWh depending on usage.  But for my energy usage, I'm only sitting at .11 on average making solar unreasonable.  My last bill was under $2 after energy program usage credits where applied.

Everyone seems to have misunderstood the question. If his house consistently has a base load of 300 watts and he attaches a 200 watt panel with embedded microinverter, there would never be an issue about dumping the load onto the grid or turning it into heat. Shouldn't this situation be easy? Just connect it to the house after the meter but before the panel, right?


What height to set baseboards before carpet is installed? I am wondering how high I should space my baseboard off the floor before carpet.  I know the tack strip will go next to the base and then carpet goes over it and tucks under the base.

3/8-5/8" but most 1/2"

Reasoning:

you have padding and carpet.  With a plush carpet and pad you might be at almost an inch or even over.
you don't want the tuck to be so tight that it looks like the carpet is being smashed under the baseboards.  The carpet should look like it is just flowing under.
Note that most floors aren't exactly flat.  So make sure you are measuring this gap every few feet so that it doesn't become too big or little.
We actually have little wood blocks that we use when setting the baseboards to keep consistency.  We knock these out after a room has been nailed.
Completely ridiculous to put baseboards in after carpet.  If I am doing a complete gut I want the baseboards in, nailed, spackled, and repainted where needed.  I don't want paint on new carpet or guys walking around on carpet.  We carpet just a day or two before open house.

Put it on the floor and butt the carpet up against it, or install baseboard AFTER carpet, on top of it.

Personal preference - no carpet at all.


My toilet is filling very slowly with a Fluidmaster valve, how do I fix it? My toilet is filling very slowly. Sometimes it sounds like it is filling up a drip at a time. What's wrong with it and how do I fix it?

So having done this myself, I spent the money and bought a new Fluidmaster valve. After replacing the valve and connecting everything the toilet was still not functional. Turns out the problem was the flushing of the pipes was not good enough, the Fluidmaster had to be flushed. I flushed a gallon replacing it, and that simply was not enough.

Turn off the water.
Unscrew the cap on the Fluidmaster valve
cover the top with a cup
Turn on the water and allow it to spray into the cup until the water is clear, then wait 5 more seconds.

You could buy a new Fluidmaster. They are only $8.00. If you are worried about it happening again, get a whole house water filtration system and repipe your house.


Three dead power outlets, no tripped breakers A few days ago I was using a multimeter to check for current to the thermostat on my garage refrigerator. I wasn't thinking and did something wrong (wrong HOT, I believe) and power to the refrigerator died. Believing I'd tripped the circuit breaker, I checked the panel but there were no tripped breakers. The multimeter shows no current to the outlet. The refrigerator functions when plugged into a different outlet (via extension cord so it's not an actual workaround).

I've tested all other outlets in the house and there is one that appears like it could be on the same circuit (given proximity and common sense, an unsafe criterion for sure), but there is also an outdoor outlet that is not functional. I can follow the circuit from that outlet for a bit and it does not seem to be on the same circuit (though who knows if that's true or not). I've also reset all breakers in the panel and no change. Additionally, I've walked through the house and tested/reset all GFCI outlets that I could find.

At any rate, it seems like these three outlets could be on the same circuit and that I somehow shorted it when I tested incorrectly. What can/should I do to trace and resolve this?

We are talking about garage and outdoor receptacles. These are both required to be GFCI protected. It is extremely easy to trip a GFI if you are working on the circuit live. Simply touching the neutral to ground, or even testing from hot to ground can trip them.

You have a tripped GFI somewhere, you need to find it. Could be nearly anywhere; garage, somewhere outside, near the main electrical panel, etc.
Let us know what you find.

I had a similar problem in my basement where all the outlets were dead except the two that control each garage door openers. I made a jumper cable with two male ends and fused the hot line with a 10 amp automotive fuse. You plug one end of the jumper into the door opener plug and the other end into one of the dead outlets. Now all the rest of the plugs on that circuit  work which indicates a open wire from the door opener plug to the nearest dead outlet plug.Turns out it was a burned up outlet the garage door opener was plugged into.


Are there efficient ways to provide combustion air to heating appliances? In a previous question we established that there probably should be a vent between my utility room (which opens into the kitchen and living space in general) and the outdoors (in my case the attic, which is a separate issue)

This seems hopelessly inefficient. Is there a better way to provide combustion air to the furnace and water heater, without having a direct vent between my living space and the outside air?

I am a little concerned that you are overthinking this situation. Naill C gave you some good advise in your last question. There are very few houses not built to be virtually air tight with an air exchange system that do not have enough natural air flow to support open combustion appliances.The simple act of opening a door to enter or exit the house allows large amounts of fresh air in during cold weather when windows are closed.  Unless you have made extreme attempt to block all air infiltration, there is probably pleanty of combustion air passing through your louvered/slat door. I totally understand your desire to minimize heat loss from the rest of the house. Before any external venting will improve the situation, the utility room will have to be somewhat sealed from air flow from the living space of the house. In new construction a vent of a calculated size is brought in from the out of doors, screened and baffled, and strategically located just above the floor by the appliance. The mechanical room is almost air tight, insulated and lined in a fire rated material. Since this space is indoors and only calculated amount of outside air is allowed in, freezing is not normally a concern if water utilities are also in the room. Drawing air from an attic can be risky. Obviously some think it a good idea, however there are drawbacks. If the attic is not well ventilated the air may not be sufficient. I simple vent register in the ceiling to the attic will let as much heat up as it pulls air down. In fact, any open path into the attic can be dangerous. A register, vent pipe etc. can act as an easy path or chimney for fire or natural gas to spread quickly into the attic. If you decide to proceed in isolating and venting your open combustion appliances, pick one of the proven techniques and run it by your local building code officer for local compliance. Better safe than sorry.

You need to have a fresh air vent near the appliance otherwise you will be sucking in cold air in another room like your front door. To mitigate any heat loss, you can  use the 5 gallon bucket trick. The outside air vent is connected to a 4" flexible insulated duct. The bucket sits next to the water heater with the duct in the bucket. So cold fresh air for combustion fills the bucket and is available to the appliance, but pretty much stays in the bucket and doesn't fill the whole room up with cold air.


Is it possible to boost an electrical circuit for more current draw? In my attic I have a relatively decent electrical circuit that runs a family room with a modest entertainment system, a home office with a monster PC, and a couple of ceiling lights. I've never had any problems with it before.

Recently I got a new laser printer that apparently draws a lot of current briefly when it comes out of sleep mode - enough to trip my UPS (the printer is not plugged into the UPS). I don't know if this is a dangerous situation, but it's unsettling and I'd like to fix it if possible.

To directly answer your question: no you cannot "boost" a circuit.

Every wire has a voltage drop, and according to NEC it can't be more than 5% at the outlet. Voltage drop is proportional to the length of the wire, resistance (which is dependent on the size of the wire), and current. In other words, as your load goes up, so does your voltage drop.

If your existing wiring is just on the edge of either load or size, then the current may be going up enough that it's below the UPS threshold and thus the UPS is switching to back-up power because it sees it as a brown-out.

If the cable is too small (typical is 14AWG for a 15A circuit, 12AWG for 20A) then the only thing you can do is either increase the cable size, or run a new circuit (and really, you're not going to pull out the old cable and run bigger cable, it's just as much work to run a new circuit so you might as well do that).

If the load is too high (eg, you're close to 15A) then the only thing you can do is run a new circuit, or decrease the load.

You could start by using a Kill-a-watt or similar device to measure power consumed by your PC,  printer, TV, etc. This will help guide you to what is consuming too much power, and where (if you go this route) it makes sense to split the circuit up.

You mentioned lights; using LED or CFL bulbs may be a stop-gap to save some power, and is certainly one of the easier things you can do.

If it comes to it, there's ways to be creative about how to split the circuit up, without necessarily having to rip out a lot of drywall. You may be able to run a new cable halfway, and then splice in and split the circuit into two, starting from a light or receptacle. You may be able to find the wire underneath in the basement, and cut it and put in a junction box so the circuit from that point on is on the new circuit. It's hard to be specific here without actually being in your house.

It sounds like you don't know what you are doing with regards to electricity. It's ok. Most people don't. But that means you should probably not even consider anything like the "boosting" that you are requesting. Nothing short of rewiring your home with a heavier gauge would solve your problem safely. If you must do that, call a certified electrician.


What could be causing drainage issues in our new bathroom? We had a bathroom reassembled in stages. The bathroom functioned when we moved in 17 years ago but fell apart over time. So we had the floor re-leveled then we had new plumbing and a stall shower installed. Then we had sink, new flooring and toilet installed. Everything worked for 3 days without issue. On day 4, I went to the bathroom and then got in the shower. The shower drain slowed to a crawl and the bottom of the shower filled with water which stayed after I got out. I flushed the toilet after getting which caused it to just fill up and not drain. The toilet does drain down slowly over time. Now the shower always fills up and the toilet only flushes if no one has done anything in there for at least 6 or 7 hours. Even then it rarely flushes down.

The venting for the piping is on the sink which is the first in line moving to the right. Toilet is next and shower is last. I have run the sink and heard the toilet bubble. I have flushed the toilet and watch water back up into the shower. The sink has never backed up from running it.

Is it possible the shower sunk down from use after the first 3 days?
Is it possible something is blocking the line somewhere?
Would anything short of dismantling the whole new bathroom help?
Could the venting be moved to the shower without destroying the new bathroom, if that is that solution?

We want to use this new bathroom so we can now renovate the old one and repaint and redo fixtures. Can any harm come from using it regularly until old bathroom is renovated (aside from the obvious toilet issues)?

I think the plumber will need to snake that drain (again), perhaps with a bigger snake. They should snake from the cleanout under the toilet towards the sewer or septic tank (whichever you have).

To me it sounds like it's an air problem.  I ran into this  same problem when I finished a basement and put a bathroom in. I thought I had a bad air cap, which could be your problem. My problem was not enough air.


Options for covering an in-wall safe removal? I recently removed an in-wall safe which fit neatly between two 16"-on-center studs. But now I'm left with a big hole in the wall where the safe once was.

Since the hole is behind a closet door, I'd rather not invest the time in patching/sanding/repainting the drywall to restore the original condition. But I also don't want to leave a gaping hole for whomever buys my house someday.

I was hoping there was some sort of panel or insert that could cover this up, but look "finished" enough so that it didn't seem like I just threw a chunk of plywood over it.

Any suggestions?

Just put a piece of drywall in and give it a first coat of mud and tape.  Seriously this is 10 minutes and no mess.  Big box sells little kits for $10 or less for stuff like this.  Then when you get around to selling no one will really mind a little patchwork to do in closet.

Personally I would just redo the drywall there.  But you can get a piece of plywood, trim to size of hole.  Use some window/door casing to cover the transition from wall to plywood.


Thermostat set at 65 - Furnace went to 90 - possible causes? Oil furnace. Honeywell programmable thermostat (not WiFi-battery operated). Heat set as always at 65 degrees F with auto fan.  No changes to settings whatsoever.  Had been working fine all winter.

Yesterday, Cold day <20 degrees F and extremely windy. Not home all day (12 hours) - when returned, house was 90 degrees and furnace was blasting. Thermostat was still set at 65 - but temp on thermostat read 90. Turned thermostat off - furnace stayed on.  Turned breaker to get furnace to shut down. Off all night.

This morning - house temp 63F - turned furnace off at switch, then turned breaker back on, then turned furnace switch to on.   Turned thermostat back on - still set the same at 65F with auto fan.

Has worked fine so far all day (??).  Even when turning thermostat off and back on or changing temps - seems to be communicating fine.  Furnace goes off with thermostat and back on and stays at whatever temp is set. What could have happened?

Afraid to leave house again unless I shut the heat completely off.  Used up almost 1/2 tank of heating oil with what happened yesterday. Could whatever the cause have been start a fire?  I know that my chimney needs a repair at the top and is also missing a cap. I also have been finding mice in the kitchen that I've been dealing with - but no sign of them in the area of the furnace that I know of or in the wall where the thermostat is. What are the different options that could have caused this so that I can hopefully prevent it from happening again?

there should be several other layers of protection from a fire, the issue is more economic. It might be a one-off event, like the thing's smarts freezing up. Maybe check the batteries.

If in any doubt, you can put the old thermostat, set at a max cut-off temp like 80, in series with the new one to prevent a "crashed" smart thermostat from running the heat all day. The heat would only come on if BOTH thermostats agreed it should. Since the older one will be on for anything under 80, it normally does nothing and stays "on".

If you have the opposite problem, it doesn't come on sometimes, then you put the backup thermostat in parallel with the smart one, so that either one will trigger. Then you set the analog thermostat for a fail-safe like 50 to prevent frozen pipes.

You can put your backup thermostat out of the way, or next to the furnace; it need not be in the comfort zone to be effective.

The simple answer is to replace the thermostat. They're not that expensive, and this sort of thing is almost unheard of. There are many more likely causes of a house fire.

If it happens again it's probably a bad control board on the furnace.


What should I consider regarding LAN wiring before building a house? I am planning a small house (4 rooms, 2 floors, no basement, no attic, 120 sq.meters) and I want to run a lot of LAN cables throughout because of poor WiFi experiences in my apartment.

Because the house will be built according to my wishes (including electrical plans), I can pretty much choose whatever I want. But ... what do I want?

I want to provide at least 2 LAN sockets in each room, plus some more in the living room and underneath the staircase for central infrastructure (DSL modem, NAS, WiFi, media center). I will also have at least 2 desktop computers, three audio devices, and a handful of wireless devices (laptop, smartphones). Clearly, a regular DSL modem with 4 LAN ports and WiFi won't be enough.

I have no idea what kind of Internet consumption and local network usage a family of 4 would have many years from now, and this is the only chance I'll get to make smart preparations.

What considerations should I include in my network planning?

I guess it would be smart to have a switch, right? I'd place it under the staircase along with the DSL modem, WiFi AP, NAS, and other central headless equipment.
Would a patch panel be useful, or is that only used in large office buildings?
Is it stupid to plan 2 LAN sockets per room? I figure 1 is not enough, but 4 is too expensive.
What's the recommended minimum distance between electrical and LAN cabling? We don't build using "studs" in Europe (we mostly use bricks), so an actual measurement would be helpful.
What am I forgetting?? There's always something that you only learn from bitter experience. I'd like a head start.

My goal is not a show-and-tell geek project. It needs to be reasonably affordable but also future-proof for the next 10-25 years as best as possible without introducing fiber or some such.

First off, your cabling doubles as your telephone wiring, so 2 per room is reasonable. Put a jack anywhere you think you may need a phone, computer, or media device (TV/Boxee/game console/etc).  If you know you are going to likely need a couple at some particular spot (eg, a home office, or your main TV watching area) then you can do that as well.

Run all the cables back to some main wiring closet or utility room. The "nice" way to do it is with a patch panel, but you certainly don't have to go that far. You can get away with just terminating the ends with regular jacks. In your wiring closet, you'll have a switch of some sort (either the 4-port switch built into most routers, or something bigger if you need more than 4 ports). You'll also need a small patch panel for telco wiring for your analog phones. If you want a particular jack in the house to be on your network, plug it into the switch. If you want it to be telco, plug it into the phone panel. Note you don't need every jack to be active, and you don't have to decide telco or network now.

Here's how I have my house terminated, including patch panel. Note I have a 16-port switch, then the patch panel. There's only one analog telco line (port 4), the rest of my phones are VoIP (there are two power injectors on top of the switch for a couple of those phones).

You may also consider running coax (RG-6) to TV areas, for use with cable or satellite, and you can terminate in the same boxes as network cables if you want. In my house, I have a box with 2 Cat5's and a coax in every room, but I would probably split them apart so there was one on each side of the room if I could. In my case, I was retrofitting most of the house and mostly just did interior walls.

In my opinion, Cat5e is good enough (it supports gigabit), but Cat6 works too (I personally don't think it's worth paying any extra for).

I would not be overly concerned with noise in a residential setting. Twisted pair wiring is resistant to noise anyway. Try to avoid prolonged parallel runs (less than 6" apart), but even if you do you're not likely to notice any problems.

As far as future-proofing, one word: Conduit.

Who knows what cable tech will be used 10 years from now. Install what is useful today. If you want to run a 1 gigabit network, and a couple 1080p video links to a flatscreen on the wall, then install cables that can support that. By the time 4K or holographic video or whatever is "current" 10 years from now takes over, there's a good chance there will be new cabling standards and all the most expensive cutting-edge cables you can buy now will be obsolete.

Case in point: 15 years ago, 10 Mbit was a common ethernet speed, and 100 Mbit was high-end. 802.3ab (gigabit over copper) was only introduced in 1999. 10 years ago, YPbPr component video was top-dog (HDMI only came on the market around 2003), and now it's getting hard to find gear that even has component video connections.

If you can afford it, sure, install Cat 6 or even Cat 7, but you have to realize any extra you spend on it is basically a bet that in 10 or 15 years, there is not going to be some new standard or totally different technology that makes it all obsolete. There's also a chance that you won't need it: I have gigabit throughout my house, but some of my (within 1-year-old) end-points (such as VoIP phones, and media streamers that play 1080p video) still only have 10 Mbit connections, because that's all they need.

When people come over to my home, they expect a wireless hookup, so we have one.  We also have other devices such as a Wii that use the wireless network as well.  This will accomodate the smartphones and mobile devices they bring over.  We have a hybrid type of system.  We have a hard line to our main computer and one to our media room.  Everyone else uses the wireless access point (router).  That keeps them off of our computer as well.  My setup is pretty simple, we have a cable modem coming into a netgear N900 wireless router.   The router has 4 hardline slots which is more than enough for our needs.

I think at most you will need one hookup per room, 2 or 4 seems like overkill.  Switches and patch panels seem to be overkill as well.

A standard cable or dsl router usually has 4 open slots, that should cover the rooms you want hard line access to.  If you need more than 4, then more heavy duty equipment is needed.  I don't know your needs are, but ask yourself how many people or devices will be connected at once with hardlines?

Also, keep in mind more and more companies are building WIFI into thier products instead of a hard connection.  I know you had a bad experience with WIFI but they make range extenders to help with the connection.

I would focus on having a good WIFI system in place with hardlines as needed.  I am not sure of the minimum distance required, but your local electrical code(s) should have details.


What to block a hole with to stop mice getting in? I have heard rustling sounds coming from my exterior walls, which I am assuming is mice (or some other rodent) scurrying around in the hollow wall.

I have found a hole about 2 inches in diameter in my electricity meter box where a thick electrical cable enters the house, which I think might be where the mice are getting into the walls.

What can I use to block the hole that the mice won't be able to move or chew through?

When sealing a hole around an electrical entry cable, the best product to use is Plasduct. It is a putty like material, gray in color. You will find it in most electrical departments at the box stores or your local hardware store.  Use it just like modeling clay, work it a bit to make it pliable, then stuff it into the hole around the cable as deeply as possible. I have never seen rodents or insects get through this stuff.

Quickest and easiest way is to stuff the hole with steel wool. You can also put screening material or similar metalwork over the hole.