Trying to wire a water heater to a breaker box I connected the black and red wires to a double 30 amp breaker . What do I do with the white and ground wires?

Call an electrician, if you're asking these questions you don't have the basic knowledge required to complete this safely and properly.

Without additional details it's literally impossible to provide guidance to you. There's many variables here such as if this is a standard main panel vs a sub panel and the type of water heater you're installing. You also didn't include the wiring gauge you're using or the input voltage from the utility (120V , 230V, 240V).

Dangerous and improper wiring kills over 500 people every year in the US, don't be one of them.

The ground wire is connected to a ground connection on the WH and the other end is connected to the ground bar in the panel. The white wire is not usually needed for an electric WH so it would not have been connected to the WH. If the heater does not need a neutral, then properly cover each end of the unused white wire (i.e., the end at the WH and the end in the panel).


Why does the gas furnace blow cold air at the start of the heating cycle? What does this problem sound like?

There is a 25 year old gas furnace in the house we rent.
(The guy that owns the place claims there is NO problem at all.  He said the igniter is brand new and working fine.)

It blows cold air for the first 10 minutes of each heating cycle.
(Sometimes this happens for 30-60 minutes.)
Then heat starts to appear fine.

The "blowing cold airs" periods eventually get shorter and shorter... as the "blowing hot air" periods
get longer...  and eventually, after 3-4 hours, the home is at the desired temperature.

Perhaps a thermostat problem?
    Does the average thermostat independently control the "on/off fan" and the "on/off flame" events?'
    Perhaps the "flame on" part of the thermostat is bad or incorrectly adjusted?

Perhaps a furnace problem?
    Is there some timer-device that decides how long to wait between "fan on" and "flame on" events?
    Perhaps this delay is set too long?  Or the device is bad?

Another (perhaps totally unrelated) thing:
The problem seems worse when the furnace is trying to heat the place from 60 degrees, up to a thermostat setting of 70.
(Yes, it gets THAT cold in here sometimes.)

It seems to happen less often... when trying to heat the house from 75... up to a thermostat setting of 85.  (Yes, have to set things VERY high, to lessen
this problem.)

Can you look at the furnace during the time it is blowing cold air and see if the flame is on?

The thermostat has the ability to control the fan, but typically the thermostat sends a "turn heat on" signal to the furnace and the furnace controls are setup to turn the flame on for a X amount of time (to warm up the air) and then turn on the fan once the timer expired (so the air coming out of the vents is not cold).  When the heat is turned on is the flame and fan going on at the same time?

Not sure about your furnace, but some have a couple of LEDs that are lit up and can be used to read a status  or error codes.  If you have the manual you could try to decipher the code while the cold air is running and see if it gives you a clue.

I would start by trying to figure out if the problem is with the thermostat or the furnace by installing a new thermostat and seeing if the problem goes away.  If the problem is still there you can just return it.  I had a furnace issue where it was going off randomly and would work in heat mode but not cool mode. It turned out that the thermostat was bad and sending intermittent signals.

High limit switch, (example  L240-30 ) it controls fan too, also it is a bimetal switch working on heat on and off and goes erratic.


I'm looking for a drywall finish that will hold a magnet I want to modify a wall so that small magnets will stick, and even hold a small dead weight. I would prefer that the magnetic area not look all that different from the rest of the wall, I don't want to just hang a sheet of steel. I am imagining that 1/4" mesh hardware cloth could be attached to the face of the drywall, and skimmed over with joint compound. We will be skim-coating the walls in any case to get a specific plaster texture.

The hardware cloth I've looked at has 1/4" openings, and is woven from 23 gauge steel and zinc galvanized. Magnets stick nicely to the bare cloth. My concern is that the joint compound will react badly with the galvanization causing the wall surface to check or fail in time.

The wall in question is in a full bath, and so humidity is likely to be higher than in the house in general. One of the proposed locations is directly behind the sink, the other is open wall. We are still discussing the right spot.

Is this a viable approach? If not, what else should I consider?

Update: My intent is to use rare-earth magnets to hold up a glass mirror behind a bathroom sink. The mirror is a 20 inch square cut into seven pieces forming a puzzle. Using magnets to mount the mirror will allow guests to play with the shape of the overall mirror on the wall. My plan is to epoxy three NdFeB magnets to the back of each puzzle piece, or possibly just one on the smallest pieces.

The back of an envelope says that 400 square inches of 0.25 inch glass should weigh a couple of pounds, but I probably should go weigh the actual pieces since Amazon thinks the shipping weight is 4.6 pounds and there can't be all that much cardboard in the box.

Assuming the 4.6 pound figure is correct and that the box accounts for about .6 pound, the smallest pieces would 1/16 the total weight, or about 4 ounces, and the largest pieces would be 1/4 the weight or about a pound.

So the bottom line is that I do need a surface that will allow magnets to hold up about a pound.

Final Update: As all things in a home remodel are in continuous flux, this plan has fallen by the wayside. The answers and discussion have been helpful. I believe the mirror will find a home on a steel-backed whiteboard in the home office, and something more conventional will end up on the walls next to the sink.

I still plan to play with the magnetic primer paint, but from all I've read I'm not expecting it to work out to hold up anything more than a few sheets of paper. With that in mind, the answer pointing to the useful permanent magnet calculator gets the coveted green checkmark mostly because it has been the most useful in guiding us towards a location and use for the mirror.

If you really want to securely hold objects that heavy to the wall using magnets, I think you need to be working with sheet metal on top of the drywall (or in place of the drywall).

The magnetic force will fall off very quickly with distance away from the plate, so even skim-coating with plaster will dramatically reduce the holding power of the magnet.

If you want the surface to blend in with the surrounding walls (you didn't actually state the finish on the walls, but I'm assuming it's painted sheetrock or plaster), try simply painting the steel sheet to match. The texture of the finish might be slightly different, but I'd imagine it wouldn't take away from the feeling that it "blends in" with the surrounding walls.

As others have stated, I'd also consider a polycarbonate mirror rather than glass.

Another option would be to cut a chunk out of the wall and hang a steel plate behind the drywall, then repair the drywall.

Repairing the drywall is not as daunting a task as it sounds like.  See here for more information.

If the magnets you use are anywhere near as powerful as the ones in this stud finder, then three of them will easily be able to hold a few pounds.


How do I seal the sink basin opening? I purchased a new bathroom sink and faucet and set everything up according to instructions. The faucet instructions told me to use silicone for the drain lip (the border thing around the stopper in the bottom of the inside of the sink, flange?).
Anyways, underneath where the pipe comes out is a rubber gasket and I've used the plastic screw on the drain pipe to seal the gasket against the underside of the sink, but when I put a little bit of water in it, some water leaks out from between the gasket and the sink. I've tried tightening it as much as I can and it still leaks.
Should I be putting silicone or plumbers putty between the gasket and the sink?  If possible, I'd like to avoid taking the drain lip off because I've already sealed it there. What should I do?
Here is a picture of the underside of the sink:

UPDATE: It turns out (haha) that the problem was that the rubber "washer" was actually threaded itself. I'm not sure if they are always like this, but I didn't realize that it was threaded when I was assembling everything. So I assume that what was happening originally is that when I didn't have the rubber washer close enough to the basin when I started tightening the nut (blue) that it was moving the the threads out of alignment or something and not making a good seal. Once I turned the washer a few turns upwards, then tightened the blue nut, it made a proper seal. All without using a bunch of puttey or silicone.
UPDATE2: So it has been 10 months and it hasn't leaked. Problem solved.
UPDATE3: It's been 8 years and it hasn't leaked.

It should not be necessary to try to goop some type of sealer around the lower neck of the sink drain. Such solution may work but it is not the desirable approach when you consider that someday this assembly will need to come apart for repairs.

In looking at the assembly that you have I wonder if one or more things are at play here.

1) If the drain pipe tail was not centered in the neck of the sink drain and then had lateral force on it due to the down stream goose neck trap it could be forcing the gasket open on one side. Check that there is no undue large amount of sideways pressure on the lower part of this pipe assembly.

2) It looks like the gasket directly contacts with the face of the capture nut around the drain pipe. It is possible that by tightening the capture nut that it is putting a twisting force on the gasket that may cause it to "fold away" from the sealing edge of the sink neck.

3) It is possible that there could be a small crack or pitted area on the sink neck that keeps the rubber gasket from engaging 100% with the sink neck.

4) Sometimes the "rubber" used in this type gasket is made of a plastic material that is anything but rubber. Check at the local hardware store to see if they have another gasket that is more pliable. In some cases a silicon material may be better.

Finding out why these leaks happen can be a pain, and you may not have the patience to take everything apart and inspect as to the cause of the leak.  Try running a string of plumbers putty around the outside of the gasket and see if that stops the leak.

It is the quickest and easiest way to resolve a leaky gasket.


How can I black out sunlight BEHIND my condo's windows and vertical blinds? To block sun light, I taped  aluminum foil and garbage bags to window. then  condo board lawyer mailed me warning letter. They violated condo's bylaws and she ordered me to take them down.

Without prior written consent of our condo board, you cannot:

decorate or paint any outside area, exterior surface or exterior door.

change the color of any exterior glass, window, door or screen of any dwelling unit. The window side of all drapes, blinds or other window coverings shall be white or off white in color.

Lawyer wrote foil or bags cannot be in front of, or touch, blinds or window.  But I can put up coverings behind red line in picture.  But how can I set up them at red line? Bag or foil can't stick to ceiling or carpet!

Condo board refused my request and wrote that if they let everybody cover their windows with bags or foil, condo will look ugly and look like it's still under construction!
Pic below is my blinds. I don't have curtain rods. I can't hang curtains. I got allergies. I DON'T want sleep mask,  tent,  hat to cover eyes or put pillow over my head. I lost my job. I don't have money to hire professionals  or lawyers.

I agree those window coverings are wholly inadequate for keeping out light. They're the "cheap, default" window coverings provided by most condo associations.   You're expected to upgrade if you own the place.
Normal upgrades include heavier curtains which do block the light.  Note that most quality curtains have a "curtain liner" on the backside.  These are typically white or off-white, even if your side of the curtain is red, blue, black or whatever.   It might even be a variation on the blinds you do have, with the interior side black instead of white.
So they certainly don't mean you can't have window treatments that are non-white on the interior side.  They mean if you're going to put up trailer-trash third world literally garbage up to block light, you need to stand it off from the proper window treatments so you don't mess up their aesthetic.
You live there because  you like it, because it's nice, right?  Well, it didn't get nice by itself.  It's nice because the builder, and the condo association, and the residents, work pretty hard to keep it nice.
"Nice" has other implications, like higher class occupants and less crime.
If you really mean to say "nice" is not important to you, then you're wasting capital by tying it up in a property whose major (costly) feature is being "nice".  Sell it and get something that's a better fit.

I have to agree that foil and bags would be unsightly, and I'm not surprised somebody would complain loudly enough to force the condo board to act. If you want to bend the rules you'll have best success when you bend them only gently.. or very carefully. ;-)
It seems the way out, based on the lawyer quotes, is to create "other window coverings" which are "white or off white in color" on the side facing outward, while blocking ingress of light to your room.
Perhaps you'd meet the "letter of the law" by first hanging white garbage bags, then covering them on the interior side with your black bags and foil! Keep in mind that you've accidentally offended the visual sensitivity of one or more neighbors and they'll be watching you closely. You'll do well to go a little higher-class than taped-up plastic.
What about making faux vertical blinds? White paper, such as butcher paper, could be painted or colored with chalk, coals, etc so that it has faint vertical stripes of shadowing. From a distance it could resemble closed vertical blinds. With this applied inside the glass you'd be free to apply foil, black plastic, or whatever layer you like on the interior-facing side.
If you'll prefer to leave the existing coverings as they are and do something else on the interior side of them the sky is the limit. With no hardware to hang things by rigid materials may be your only option. Something thin like luan plywood, dark brown hardboard, or foil-faced foam insulation board could work.
If you add hooks, rods, or other hardware to the ceiling and walls the options expand a lot. You might even be able to use removable adhesive hooks for some of the job ("Command" brand or similar). With hanging hardware in place you could try heavy fabrics like bed sheets or quilts. These could be had from a second-hand store to keep the cost low.


Why is my kitchen ceiling light not turning on with the light switch? My kitchen light is not turning on with light switch, I checked it with a two wire light gadget and when I stick them in a electrical plug socket I get a bright light on the gadget, when I touch the kitchen light switch, the two screws on the right hand side, when light switch is turned on I get a very dim light on that checker, with the light switch off, I get no light at all on the gadget.

Could this mean I need a new light switch?

Agreed that you need to verify the light is not working first by switching the light bulb with a known working light bulb. If that doesn't work is there another 3 way switch that is off now that you didn't know you had?
That was switched off by somebody else since you didn't know it existed.

Can this light only be turned on and off from the one location (i am trying to figure out if this is a single pole or 3 way light switch your testing.)

If its a single pole switch (only two screws with wires under them) than when you put your light up probe on the contacts on the switch it should light either full on or full off. (depending what position you have the switch in , up or down) So if its half on than something is going on.

If its a 3 way switch than maybe your putting the probe on the wrong contacts to get a full light. A three way switch has 3 wires under three different screws.

I am just trying to think out loud because I don't know what to think.

Maybe its a bad ballast (in a fluorescent light fixture) giving off funny voltages which I am not even sure makes sense. What kind of a light is it?

Maybe the neutral in the panel is loose (i know I have had half voltages on plugs when the neutral was loose in the panel even though I wasn't in the panel recently).

Let me know how it goes.


Can I add a light fixture to an existing circuit but with its own switch? I have a ceiling fixture in middle of kitchen. Would like to install light over sink. Can I use the wiring in the existing light to wire the light over the sink and have a separate switch for each light? I don't want both lights to come on when I flip the switch for the ceiling light.

Assuming the Fixtures are all on a 15AMP Circuit and using 14/2 wire.

The Complexity would depend on how the Switch was wired.   Power to the Switch, Switch Leg to the Fixture, or Power to the Fixture and Switch leg down and back.   If you have the Power at the Fixture then you won't have a Neutral at the Switch.  If its a newer house you should have a White wire in the Switch box that is just passing though and only connected to other white wires.

If you have a Neutral in the Switch box, and If you have Access to Drop a second 14/2 from the new Fixture to the existing switch then sure.   You just Connect up all the Neutrals, then get a Switch like this

Connect the Existing Hot Switch leg to one switch and your new Fixture's hot switch leg to the other switch.

If there is no Neutral then  you have two options:

Option #1 Branch the Incoming Power from the Existing Fixture down using a 14/2 to the Existing Switch. Then You will have a new HOT and Neutral in the Box. Then add a second 14/2 up to the new Fixture. Use the same Switch as above though remove the interlock between them so you can feed separate HOT feeds.

Option #2 is to do as they did and branch from existing Fixture to new Fixture.   Take the incoming hot at the old fixture, Tap off it to the new fixture.   You will need a 14/2 down to the switch in this case too. You connect the HOT from the existing Fixture to the HOT of the line you ran to the switch box. Then use the same switch though you are going to remove the interlock between them so you have an incoming hot for each fixture. Then use the white wire after its labeled to provide power back up to the Fixture.

You can't use the wiring of the existing light. Rather, you have to tap into the junction box that the lighting fixture connects to. However, that will only get you the second light on the same circuit. As @DoxyLover points out, if they're on the same circuit, you can't use separate switches for each light.

You could use one switch for the main circuit, then a second switch just for the sink light. But that means the existing light would have to on be when the sink light is on.

However, if you can instead connect to a junction box housing an outlet nearby, you could find a light fixture with a wireless switch. Here's one product from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K

Alternatively, you could use a Wi-Fi enabled light bulb that you could turn on/off with your phone: http://www.amazon.com/LIFX-Edison-Enabled-Multicolor-Dimmable/dp/B00EJ9FY2C

The reason the latter two options will work is that the outlet junction box is not (likely) on a switched circuit, so the fixture will always have access to power--unlike the existing light circuit that, if the switch is off, will not get any power.


Connection for range hood from 8" circular to 10"x3.5" rectangular I am installing a new range hood for our kitchen. The duct exhaust at the top is 8" circular, but our old vent to outside is 10"x3.5" rectangular. I see what we could usually use a register boot but there is not enough space between the exhaust and the vent. The wall vent is just 1-2inches above the exhaust vent flange.

Is there a different HVAC part I could use? Could I build my own from metal or ductboard?

thanks

We found an HVAC guy to build it from photos and measurements. With a bit of nudging, it went in after I cut the right whole in the box.

Probably there's better solutions, but I had to do something like this with a bathroom vent. I simply bought a roll of aluminum tape (used for ducts - not the plastic duct tape) and I built up three or 4 layers of connection between the two, essentially fabricating a bit of ductwork.

This is hidden in the ceiling so the look wasn't a big deal.


GfCI trips in bathroom Hi I have a bathroom gfci which is connected to the lights , fan and receptacles in bathroom , bedroom and landing . It's about a 45 year old house . Without protecting the circuits in the bedroom how do I wire the bathroom box as there are 3 switches and the gfi in one box . At present all black wires and white wires are pigtailed together but the gfi keeps tripping , is it too much on one circuit .
I think there are about 10 items , lights and receptacles total .

GFCIs trip when the incoming "hot" current does not return on the neutral line. This situation could arise due to:

normal operation of an inductive device (like a motor, such as you would find in a fan or refrigerator). These devices shouldn't be on a GFCI.
A neutral / ground fault. This would be due to a defect in the wiring or an appliance.
An electric path to ground through something else, like a person. This is the primary purpose of a GFCI and the reason they're required in wet locations: to save your life!

An over-current condition should not cause the GFCI to trip. (Although it might trip the circuit breaker. Circuit breakers have entirely different purposes and detect a different category of problems.)

Note also that you can have a GFCI on a circuit without the entire circuit being protected by the GFCI outlet. Anything attached to the "load" side (e.g. downstream) of the GFCI outlet will be protected. Anything on the "line" side (e.g. upstream) will not affect the GFCI outlet.

To find out exactly where the problem is, it would be helpful to know if the GFCI outlet trips immediately after you reset it, when any device is turned on, or when a particular device is turned on.

Don't know if this reply is factual, but I have been informed by at least 2 sources, that starting load for refrigerators is quite high and that this quite often causes the GFI to trip on start-up.   This also would cause any other GFI on any other circuit to also trip when the fridge is plugged into it.  Also, I'm told that all GFI's are now made with a "fail point" after a period of time.  This is to insure correct operation of the GFI as it get older and "weaker".  Again, don 't know is that is true, but suggest replacing the GFI on the fridge circuit and see if it corrects the problem.  So far, it has on ours.-------------No electrician am I
Bald Mountain


Electrical turning off on its own I have a 1938 home which was rewired with cloth covered wires.  We have changed all outlets and switches but one circuit will shut off sometimes repeatedly and sometimes will stay on for 6 hours.  This has T.V. connected to it in living room,  dining room (ceiling fan flickers), bathroom, and another bedroom.  Small house and we were only running T.V. when it does this.  Could it be a bad wire heating and cooling at that one area.  Should I have house rewired? Is this a fire hazard?

A short circuit is a fire hazard, though it may not require rewiring the house to repair. When this happens, identify all affected outlets and lights.

Then, when the circuit is normal, locate section of wire that must contain the fault by separating the line and load at various points to map out the circuit. When you disconnect the hot at one point in the circuit and turn the power back on, everything that doesn't have power is part of the load from that device, and everything still working is part of the line.

With the process of elimination, you can identify the 2 outlets where only the problem outlets are affected when the hot is disconnected, one outlet that has the problem itself, and another that doesn't have the problem. The fault will be at one of these outlets or the line between the two will need to be replaced.

there might be a wire cracked somewhere in that circuit. It might expands because of the electricity's flow ( elector-magnetic field ) and cause the interruption.


How should I connect the ground wire for my light fixture? I am replacing a light fixture in my bathroom and have the following setup:

The electrical box is plastic
The wire coming from supply has black (hot), white (neutral) and copper (ground).
The light fixture comes with a metal bracket for attaching to the electrical box that has a green screw
The light fixture has black, white and copper wires.

The instructions supplied with the fixture dont give me an example of how to wire it up if there is an existing ground wire coming from supply.  It only tells me to attach the copper wire of the light fixture to the green screw.  So I'm curious what I should do with the ground from the supply.  Looking online, my options appear to be this:

So I think since the electrical box is plastic, I should just connect the ground of the supply with the ground of the light fixture with the wire nut.  Do I need to connect both of them together with the green grounding screw on the light fixture as well, or would that only be if the electrical box was metal?

The instructions for the fixture are only correct for a metal box.  If a metal box was used, the box itself would (should) be grounded.  The bracket that holds the light would then be connected to the box, which would make the bracket grounded.  Finally the ground wire from the fixture would attach to the bracket, grounding the fixture.

In the case of a plastic box, the box is not grounded.  All ground connections must be made by connecting the ground wires together. So in your situation you are correct, you'll connect the ground from the supply to the ground from the fixture using a twist-on connector (or other approved connection).

I would connect both coppers wires together via the green screw. I would also ensure that the copper on supply side is longer than hot and neutral, that way if there is a breakage it is most likely the hot or neutral that snaps and if it shorts to any metal work on the lamp it will go to earth/ground.


What is the advantage of PEX pinch clamp vs. crimp rings? I just saw these for the first time today at Lowe's:

The advantages I can see over the crimp style are:

A single tool can work with multiple PEX sizes
That single tool is cheaper than a single-size crimp tool (~$40 vs ~$80)
The tool grabs and pinches the raised segment of the clamp, so it doesn't need to wrap around the tube which should make it easier to use in confined spaces

Has anyone used this type of ring for PEX work and have any thoughts on them?

The benefits of the clamps are exactly as you say - the biggest one being that they're sometimes the only option in a cramped area. They used to be over 5x the price of the rings, which adds up very quickly -- but I see now they are only slightly more expensive.
I don't think they're any less reliable than regular pex crimps, I know of some (at my cottage) that have been fine for 5+ 10+15+ years now.

I use both  crimps and the stainless steel rings I like the stainless steel rings better but use copper crimps as well


Is stainless steel water piping more durable than copper? After thirty years of usage, the plumbing in my house is starting to fail progressively. The water pipes in my house is made of copper, one of which is suffering from pitting, which results in a pin-hole leakage. I tried to repair with plumber's putty, but that did not work as the water cannot be drained out completely even when the mains is shut. I have also tried taping and clamping, but it wouldn't work either.

As a portion of the pipes running through my house is buried underground, there could be leakage undetected elsewhere. My intention is to replace the entire network of water pipes with one that is exposed and easier to inspect and maintain. I am given two options, copper or stainless steel. The stainless steel option is currently 20% cheaper, but I am not sure whether this is the better option in the long run.

Is stainless steel piping more durable than copper?

In general, yes, stainless steel is more corrosion resistant than copper. It forms a tightly bonded oxide coating which tends to prevent further corrosion.

If replumbing a house where copper pipes corroded (this is more prone to happen in some areas than others due to water chemistry differences) my first instinct at this point would be to use PEX plastic tubing, but for metallic piping I would choose stainless steel over copper even if the price was the same.

If on a water supply that is treated with chlorine, or which has salts, there is a slight possibility of a stainless-steel specific problem (chloride corrosion). Certain grades of stainless (316, 316L) are more resistant to this form of corrosion than other grades of stainless, so precisely which stainless piping you are being offered will matter.

Still, I'd choose PEX by preference - should cost less, and it's not going to corrode.

I think it is clear that stainless steel has a longer shelf life than copper - or at least the copper available to most for residential plumbing.

However I think there are two really significant issues with stainless steel that would cause me to never use it for my own house:

stainless steel is galvanized and that will probably produce lead to the water supply.  Even in trace amounts, I will pass.
stainless steel is just a bitch to deal with.  For someone that isn't well versed in stainless steel I would allow for 3-4 times the install time compared to PEX.


Vertical cracks on newly poured foundation The builder just poured concrete for the foundation of my house. One week later I saw a vertical crack on the back side of the slab. The crack is thin but it goes vertical and also horizontal. It is about 2 feet long. I am so worry that the crack will get bigger later on. Please see attached pictures and give advises.

Sounds like he back filled the wall too soon, it will crack every time.  And leak.


What is the right way to strip power wires? I've been working with electrical circuits as a DIYer for years, including electronics and powerline work.  But one thing I always feel like I do a terrible job at is stripping wires: both the outside jacket and the insulators from the conductors...

Perhaps I'm being over paranoid, but if I nick the insulators when I'm cutting the jacket, or if I nick or scrape the insulator I will cut back past this injury and start over.  I want something that an inspector would give the thumbs up, because I might as well do it right while I'm doing it.  But, this always tends to take a while to cut just through the insulator and not any further.  I've tried tools from knives to sharp wire cutters to duller wire cutters to specific wire strippers.

My current mechanism is to just use a knife and be extremely careful while cutting the insulation or jacket, but it is fairly time-consuming and error-prone.  Some jackets I get lucky on and there is a ground or nylon string in it that I can pull on to tear the jacket up to where I need it, then just clip it off.  But some appliance cords that I work on have quite beefy 20A cables and those can be a bear.

Any hints or words of wisdom on what an inspector would red-flag me on?

This is the stripper I use:

It's got cutouts for 14-2 and 12-2 NM cable sheathing and inner conductors, and a decent set of sharp bypass cutters near the hinge for cutting wire.  It works better than anything else I've used for 14-2 and 12-2 Romex -- just squeeze, give it a little wiggle for good measure, and the sheathing pulls right off.  It's almost impossible to nick the conductor insulation inside.  For 3-way wire it's not so foolproof -- I use the cutter blades close to the hinge to score around the sheathing and then pull it apart.  Probably as good as any other method and is still faster than doing it manually with a knife.

They also make a 12/10 gauge version and possibly others.  I got mine at Lowe's.

Coming from a real electrician all of these answers are pretty good. The best way, the only legal way, never ever score the wire, always strip with a flat part of your blade along the wire length. Scoring the wire creates weak points or hotspots. This would create heat, more resistance, and ultimately could end in a fire.


Whatr size aerator pump is needed for a 500 gallon aerobic system? Our septic system was here when we bought the house and it is unbranded. the aerator pump above ground needs to be replaced.  How do we determine what size pump for a 500 gallon capacity aerobic system?

Option 1 - check with the local health department or wherever septic plans are filed locally and see what your system was designed to have - the system design should be on file there from when it was permitted/approved.

Option 2 - hire a septic design engineer.

Option 1 should be free. Option 2 costs money. Pulling a number out of the hat on the internet is not a good option.

80 Liters of air per minute is the standard size for a 500 gpd system.
Some systems use a rotary vane type aerator as well but these are less common do to cost and because they are a little louder.
The best aerators on the market are the Fuji Mac 80r2 3 year warranty, Hiblow HP-80 2 year warranty and used by most manufacturers of aerobic septic systems. Also the Secoh JDK-80 other great unit. Some 500 gpd systems use a 40 liter a minute pump but it’s rare and questionable when you have 80 percent of the systems using 80s.


Can ceiling light mount box be used to attach ceiling fan? As Montreal is going to welcome the humid summer, I am planning to install a ceiling fan by removing the ceiling light. I have selected the fan that I want from Amazon. Here are the photos of the ceiling light fixture and its mounting box. But I am not sure if it needs a fan mounting box ? or will this ceiling light mount box can be used for the fan too ?

This is the fan that I am planning to buy.

Here is how my mount looks:

Maybe.

If the box has a bracket that securely attaches it to a framing member, then the box can support a ceiling fan up to 35 lbs.  If the box is not securely attached to a framing member, it cannot support a ceiling fan. According to NEC, ceiling boxes are supposed to be installed so that they can support a 50 lbs fixture (that's a light fixture, not a ceiling fan). However, this is not always the case, especially where the boxes are installed by those unaware of the code requirements, or before it was a requirement.

If the box is designed for supporting a ceiling fan, it will be marked with the amount of weight it can support, up to 70 lbs.  A ceiling fan weighing more than 70 lbs., has to be supported by other means.

Not usually, ceiling fans have a hollow threaded rod that is usually mounted through a 2X4 nailed across the bottom of your ceiling trusses or between the floor joists of an upper floor.

EDIT:

The fan electric junction box must be securely affixed to a structural part of the ceiling. Often this is done with wood or metal braces that are strung on or between ceiling joists. Many today have mounting hardware separate from the junction box where wiring connections are made. Ensure you find if the wires are rated for the electric current load of the fan and lights and it's a good idea to have the wiring inspected by a competent electrician.

http://extremehowto.com/ceiling-fan-installation/

https://www.google.com/search?q=ceiling+fan+mounting+box&hl=en&site=webhp&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiX1ZuYlvrTAhVHHGMKHZj_BgUQ_AUIBygC&biw=1661&bih=905#imgrc=_

SECOND EDIT:

Here is a link to the company website's installation manual for this fan. It states that you must have a 'fan rated' junction box or use the mounting hardware provided. It does appear to be a ball and socket style mount and from the pictures you provided I cannot see that you have a fan rated junction box. Find where the joists run and use the long screws provided to secure the mounting bracket into the wood joist.


What size breaker should I use to feed an electrical panel for our addition? We recently put an addition on our home. I am looking to run a subpanel from our 200 amp service panel out in the yard at the meter (mounted to a pole), 75' to subpanel location.

In the addition we have 2 bedrooms, walk in closet, laundry room and bathroom. We also added on to our living room 10x15. All these rooms will have receptacles, lights and a 240 volt hook up for the dryer in the laundry room and baseboard electric heaters. (1 per room except laundry and living room) Total of 4 heaters. I currently picked up a 125 amp homeline 20 space 40 circuit panel box without main breaker. Is a 100 amp breaker from main panel more than enough? Can I use a 60 amp breaker to feed the subpanel? This is going to be inspected per NEC code.

Each baseboard heater is probably 15A (if not then check what they actually are), and the dryer is 30A. So you're already at 90A. The washer (is it frontloading?) will need 15A/2 (it's 120V), and so will the bathroom, so that's 105A. I can easily imagine all those running at once. Then you have some plugs and whatnot, but you probably won't max all of them at once.

Looks like 120A will be OK, but just barely. Is electrical heat really your only option? Can you use a gas dryer?


Gluing Table Aprons to Plywood Table Top I'm building a tall, large standing desk and removable legs are required for this to fit through doors.  I'm using pocket screws to attach the aprons (hardwood maple) the table top (birch veneer hardwood plywood).  Screws are 6" apart

Would adding glue between the aprons and tabletop be beneficial for structure?  Or would the glue not have a benefit because of the thin birch veneer that it's being glued to?  Or would glue cause problems if the wood warps (I live in dry, Colorado climate and warping may not be an issue).

Glue is rarely a bad thing to add to a (permanent) joint. Pocket hole screws are plenty strong on their own for most typical applications, but adding glue only makes the joint stronger. Plywood is very strong and very stable (two big reasons for using it), so there's no concern related to that.

One potential problem that may develop as a result of using glue is getting the joint to line up nicely, especially while screwing in the pocket screws. Glue acts as a lubricant here, allowing the two pieces to slide around quite a bit during clamping. If the two pieces are not clamped very securely, they will move when driving in the screws. If you can come up with some kind of registration / alignment system it will make the whole process much easier. Use biscuits, dominoes, rabbets (UK: rebates) (even a 1/16" deep rabbet would aid alignment), whatever to keep the apron aligned on the tabletop.

One way to make a strong joint for apron boards like this is to add in glue blocks made of hardwood. They are glued along the face toward the apron and the side that attaches to the table top. Then they are alternately screwed into the apron and the table top. Positioned under the top and inside the apron they are thus not seen. Here is an example although in practice they may be long enough for two screws in each direction.

Overall these can be stronger than just the pocket screws and will work fine as long as the joined materials are dimensionally stable with respect to one another with humidity and temperature changes.

If your materials are not going to be stable and have different rates of expansion and contraction then another approach is needed. In this case the apron frame needs to be built as a self sufficient unit unto it own amnd then the table top is attached using clips, brackets or finger blocks to hold the top secure to notches in the inside edge of the apron. Here is an example of finger blocks screwed to the table top and fitting into routed grooves in the apron.


Distance between floor and breaker panel? How far off the floor should my circuit breaker box be? I'm changing from a 100 to a 200 amp. The lead in wires are underground and come into the bottom of box making them too short to connect.

I don't think there's a minimum height, but there's a maximum height for breaker handles.

240.24 Location in or on Premises.
(A) Accessibility. Overcurrent devices shall be readily accessible and shall be installed so that the center of the grip of the operating handle of the switch or circuit breaker, when in its highest position, is not more than 2.0 m (6 ft 7 in.) above the floor or working platform...

So for a main breaker panel, where the main breaker is at the top. The center of the main breaker handle, cannot be higher than 6' 7".
Check with the local building department, as they may have a minimum height.
Practically speaking, you'll want it at a comfortable height to work in. You're not going to want to sit, or kneel on the floor while working in the panel.

There is a minimum height from the floor to the bottom circuit breaker. I thought it wa 3'9". But I can't find it in the NEC yet.


Underground Propane line to fire pit I'm building a propane fire pit in my backyard patio with a pea stone surface.  I want to have the LP tank located 12 feet away from the fire, and I don't want to trip over the line.  What can I do for an underground connection for a small application like this?  For the burner, I'll be buying a kit from FirePitsDirect.com.

I did more research on this topic and decided to go with CSST (corrugated stainless steel tubing) inside a PVC conduit.  All material is available at Home Depot.
Good references are propane101.com and homeflex.com
BTW, I don't have a natural gas line in my home.

WARNING: This answer recommends action that might be dangerous or illegal

PVC pipe works fine for low pressure gas. Put the regulator at the tank and run PVC to ,the pit.


Pilot Light keeps going out when thermostat is kicking on furnace So I have had furnace man come out 4 times, plus the Gas company.  Here is what has been done:
- New thermocoupler
- Two new gas valves
- New Orface and line blown out
- Gas company changed gas valve on outside of building.

Everytime I hear the "click" like the furnace is going to go on I listen for the burners to come on which is 99.9% of the time, never.  It seems the thermostat is sending its signal to the furnace to start but with that "click" the pilot light goes out.  Talked to two other furnace people and they have no clue either, other to say bad thermocoupler.  WTH is wrong with this thing. Been good for years and just started this crap last November 2017.

A good serviceman should be able to figure out what the problem is and how to correct it. Things to check; does the inlet gas pressure fall when the gas valve clicks, does the pilot go out instantly, is it blowing out or is the gas pressure to the pilot changing, did you keep the old gas valve for reference or throw it away? If you can, post a few pictures of the furnace and gas line connections at the furnace and state the furnace make and model and where you live.


Is it safe to use old wood lath from demolition as firewood? I removed  two room's worth of walls and ceiling horsehair plaster and wood lath from a home built in 1890. Would the plaster or paint used in those days cause the wood to release any toxins when burned? I'm wondering if the material can safely be used for firewood.

There might also be asbestos in the plaster and contaminating the lath.

Did you have the wall tested prior to demolition?  (I'm guessing no)  You may have to be very careful with this material and possibly apply a complex and detailed cleaning of the site to render it safe, sorry to say.

Here's to hoping that it doesn't have asbestos...  In USA the use of asbestos in plaster walls is uncommon prior to 1920, however the wall may have been re-plastered after the house was built.

If you do decide to burn it and it has asbestos or lead in it you may be violating health or pollution laws in your area, but at least make sure that everyone is a long ways away from the fire. (It may be better, eg. safer and more law-abiding, just to hire the appropriate disposal experts and have them clean the site and dispose of the waste)

I'd definitely be concerned about lead based paint - land fill is probably the safest bet.  You could test the paint for lead.


Can I hang a 60 lbs TV on 1 inch drywall? Can I use drywall screws with plastic contraption 3/8" diameter to put a TV on the drywall?

What is the load limit for 1 inch drywall and how many screws and how close apart they can be put to carry 60..65 lbs TV ?

Never mount a TV to drywall. Find some studs and mount it there.

Mollys and toggles are perfectly suitable for this use. 60 pounds is well within the rating of a single fastener and you should use at least four. I am not sure what those experts in other answer comments are talking about.

Down vote away boys.


What brand of faucet is this and how can I hook the sink sprayer up to it? The sprayer for my faucet is not hooked up to anything, the rubber hose just dangles below the sink. I'd really like to get this wired up, as it would be very handy to have, but I have no idea how to go about doing this.  I have two primary issues

1) What brand of faucet is this?

2) How do I hook up the sprayer to it?

1) Price Pfister T26-4NRR Marielle Hole Kitchen Single Handle Faucet

about 2)

If by sprayer you mean the leftmost unit, in the units I've seen, you dont hook it up to the faucet per se, the sprayer is a separate faucet that is hooked up to the water supply separately. You will have to set up a T or Y junction to attach the sprayer unit.


What is causing a cat urine smell in my bathroom? My bathroom has started smelling like cat urine. We have NO cats. I think the smell is coming from the shower drain.

What could this smell be coming from and how do I get rid of it?

Look for leaks, the most likely culprit is a failed seal on the toilet.  If the toilet rocks or moves that will damage the seal and cause leaks.  Even if it was installed tight to the floor it is possible the seal (usually a wax ring) was not large enough, or was not replaced by a previous homeowner after removing the toilet.  Also check if the toilet is caulked to the floor, this should never be done.  It just traps leaks under the toilet where they will ruin the floor without you noticing.

Remove the toilet and inspect underneath.  If the floor isn't rotten and the flange is not broken replace the wax seal and remount.  Or hire a plumber to do the same.

Also even if you don't have cats the previous homeowner may have and moisture from showering is bringing out the smell.  Think about where you would put a catbox and inspect and sniff carefully.  It is common for cats to pee against the baseboards and the urine to seep under the flooring.  If water gets on the floor it will bring up the smell.

In one case I had to tear a room back to the studs to get rid of the odor.

One time my friend spilled water on his carpet and it smelled like dog pee. Maybe you have wet carpet.


Using a timer switch for power, how to wire two lights so that when one is on the other is off Using a timer switch for power, how to wire two lights so that when one is on the other is off.
In the dull and cold winter days I am trying to grow seedlings. The light is insufficient during the day and so is enhanced with grow lights, which should be off at night, but the nights are cold so I want pad heating on then.

You could use a smart plug like a Shelly Plug which will allow you to set up time with built-in tools to automatically turn on and off at dawn and dusk and be controllable with a smart phone. The advantage is that the Shelly is smart enough to automatically adjust to changing daylight hours, which a wall timer will not usually do.
It's hard to argue with the simplicity of a simple timer that @Tim suggests comments for your question.
Edit
There are timers which will allow you to control two different devices from the same power outlet. An example would be the NearPow Outlet Timer, which allows two different devices to have nine on/off settings per day and seven day programmable.
Good luck with the plants.

Power the heat pad through dusk to dawn sensor.
Most are for bulb sockets, which you can convert with a socket-to-plug adapter, but there's also plug-only switchers with photocells.
if ambient light isn't enough to trigger cleanly, get an extension cord from the timer's output and plug in both the grow light and a nightlight to it. Then tape the nightlight onto the front of the  dusk to dawn so that when timer has power, the sensor doesn't, and vice-versa. I use these photocell-based consumer electronics "logic inverters" with LED nightlights in several places in my smart home setup to avoid modifying electronics.
To be clear:

the wall powers the timer and dusk to dawn switcher
the timer powers the heating pad (and optionally a nightlight to extend the light)
the dusk to dawn powers the heating pad.


How do I know if a house built in 1940 in Ontario, Canada has lead pipes? The current owner does not know but does this province have any laws regarding health issues from drinking water from old pipe systems or that they should be replaced? In the old days pipes were lead correct?

Edit: Temporarily, does a Brita filter remove lead?

Step one - look. Lead is unlikely inside the house, but you might see a lead pipe coming in from the street, if there is one. Copper pipes soldered with tin/lead solder are pretty common. But so are threaded galvanized iron pipes.

Step two - ask the water supplier, if it's on a municipal system.

Step three - have the water tested - it won't tell you if the pipes or solder have lead, but it will tell you if you need to worry about it. Most municipal systems that have lead distribution pipes in service take care to adjust the water chemistry so the lead stays in the pipes, not in the water.

If it's on a well, the odds of lead pipes go way down, IME. But the odds of water chemistry that might release lead go up quite a bit, depending on the water source.

If by "old days", you mean Roman times, yes. Lead has not been used for drinking water pipes since medieval times.

You cannot remove trace lead compounds from water with cheap water filters.


Drilling holes in concrete I'm not what you'd call a handy guy, and now wife wants me to put up curtains. This task is reduced primarily to getting a bit of metal stuck to the ceiling.

I bought screws and anchors. The anchors are a bit shorter than the screws. The clerk in the store told me that's normal. After some soul searching, I managed to drill the holes as deep as the screws. At first, I was worried that the holes were too big, since I can put the plastic anchors in with my finger.

When I try screwing in the screw, I'm physically unable to turn the screwdriver about halfway in (at this point I'm unable to yank it out of the hole either, so I'm assuming that the plastic bit expands on the inside). I don't have one of those screw-driving thingies, but I attached a screwdriver instead of the drillbit on the drill I used to make the hole, and it just "jumps out" every time I press the trigger.

I'm confused. The only possibilities that I can see are as follows:

I am not strong enough and the drill is in high gear so it can't be used this way.
Somehow I managed to mix up the anchors and the screws.

Well, here are the culprits:

Oh, don't worry about the hole in the background. That one hit something shiny, so I abandoned it. Anyway, that's about as far as I can screw it the screw without losing my cool. Oh, it's my ceiling btw.

No, this isn't normal. Your anchors don't fit to your screws. What is happening is that the tip of the screw reached the concrete, and, of course, you can't force a screw into concrete - not even with a drill or a electric screwdriver, and certainly not by hand.

This picture shows how anchor and screw should fit into the hole. The hole definitely needs to be longer than the screw. The screw should be a bit longer than the anchor, but not as long. Maybe the clerk saw that you have picked an wood screw and gave you anchors suited for the second situation. It doesn't hurt to use wood screws with anchors in a concrete wall, you'll just have the cap jutting out a bit. But the length of the screw should be only a bit longer than that of the anchor (the surplus should equal the length of the tip + the length of the attached thing), and your cap will stick out a bit if the thing you are attaching isn't soft enough for the cap to sink in.

The table shows how to determine the correct hole depth. It also tells you what diameter of anchor and drill to choose for a given screw. As for the length of the screw, it is determined by the weight it will have to carry. Vertical screws are more problematic than screws in walls, because gravity is pulling in the direction of the hole, not at 90° to it. Light curtains will be OK with your size screw, but don't put any molton on them.

for larger holes there are options:

(1)  use a small (long) drill and drill MANY holes in a circle and knock out with sledge when done.  divide and conquer.

(2)  use a bosch diamond hole saw - gets expensive for larger diameter

(3)  use a less expensive pneumatic hammer (select cutter bit not hammer bit) or rent an (electric) jack hammer.  these are slower than hole saws and difficult for larger diameters.

(4)  examine hole saws.  they have a castle top (like castle in chess).  you can take a large deep socket and slot the top with a die grinder.  drills don't have enough power but impact wrenches DO.  drawback: limited socket radius and depth


Toilet too close to wall I have a toilet that is too close to the sidewall. It is a slab foundation. What are my options for fixing this without ripping up the floor?

I thought orginally an offset toilet flange but I need more than two inches. Would a corner toilet work in this scenario?

UPDATE:
Here is another picture

You could possibly use a wall mounted toilet and snake the drain from the base of the wall drain to the floor drain.

its really not that hard to break up the concrete and move the toilet over.  the whole move can be done easily in a day with very little mess.  then you just have to replace/repair the flooring and install the toilet.


What could cause my recessed light to not work? I replaced a flood light lightbulb in recessed light fixture, thinking the previous bulb had burned out, but that new bulb isn't working either. I've tried a regular lamp bulb to ensure my new floodlight bulb was actually "good" and I checked the fuse board to make sure that outlet hadn't been tripped. What other reasons would the light not turn on? the house is only 10 years old and there's no evident damage or anything wrong with the wiring in the recessed lighting.

Any number of things.

Most recessed light fixtures contain what is called a thermal cutout. These cut off the power to the light when the heat from the light exceeds the temperature rating of the fixture.  They go bad.
Sockets go bad
Switches go bad
Loose wire connections inside the fixture.
Loose wire connections behind the switch.
Loose wire connections feeding the switch from another source.
It is not uncommon for a wire staple to penetrate the wire and over time the wire burns up inside the wall.

More than likely thermal coupling is bad in fixture replace it or recessed fixture itself.


How do I prevent a drop in flow in a system with a pressure tank, 40/60 pressure switch, filter and water softener? I have a well with a 30/55 pressure switch, and I hate the shower pressure. I am redoing the main water appliances with a new pressure tank (going from 20 gallon to 35 gallon), new 40/60 pressure switch, a sediment filter, whole house filter and water softener.

Each appliance uses a 1" hookup and I'm worried about the flow. Should I use 1" PEX equivalent to 3/4 copper or go with 1" CPVC? I'm worried about all these appliances obstructing the flow.

From my well I have a pressure tank, then a sediment filter, then a whole house Morten filter, than a water softener.....with these appliances I don't want to lose flow....each has a 1" hookup on it and feed in is a 3/4 " copper......should I go with cpvc in between 1" or Pex 1"

I will usually feed the home with 1" but then drop down to 3/4" and have not had problems with flow. Most of the plumbing to your sinks is 1/2" and the orifices in the faucets are much smaller so even with the kitchen sink and a bathroom or 2 having there valves open you should not see much of a change in flow at all with 3/4". The one place that will affect the pressure is hose bibs or outside faucets these have much larger passageways in the valve than sinks do. Already mentioned the flow restrictors in shower heads, these are taken out at my house before even installing them. Not long ago I found a flow restrictor in a bath faucet, don't know how filling a tub slower would save water but that came out also. With my shower head restrictions remove our guests mention how nice our pressure is. 60 should be a big improvement over 50 but look at your restrictor if you have any build up issues like lime, scale or rust the head may need a good cleaning that and removing the showerhead restrictor will probably provide the results you want.

Go from a 1-1/2" line right off of the water heater, down to 3/8" if need be to your appliances.


Should I downsize a circuit breaker from 40amps to 30 amps? I just fixed a hard-to-find short circuit in my home wiring. I had  heavy gauge aluminum wires running from two 40 amp circuit breakers to bring 220V to my electric cooktop. My guess is that those were the original wires from 40 years ago. Those wires were spliced to copper 10G wires in a junction box and then they ran to another junction box near the cooktop where they were spliced again. One of the aluminum /copper connectors melted in that middle box. This was very hard to diagnose.

Question: The cooktop label says  7KW for 120V/240V; 5.3KW for 120V/205V. Someone suggested that I should replace those 40A breakers with 30A breakers if the the appliance can run on the 30A as it would be safer. Can I just take 7000 divided by 240 = 29Amps? Will that be okay? Or do I have to take into account RMS voltage and current? I don’t remember whether these ratings are in peak to peak. I think my cheap meter shows peak to peak, not RMS.

Rather than replacing the breaker, you should fix the actual problem.  This document (PDF) from the Consumer Product Safety Commission, describes a few safe ways to handle aluminum wiring in a home.
Aluminum wiring itself is not dangerous. The danger with aluminum wiring is with how it's spliced/terminated.  If connections are not done properly, it can lead to overheating and potentially a fire. If terminations are done properly, aluminum wire can be, and is, used without incident.
Replacement
The most obvious recommendation, is to simply replace all the aluminum wiring with copper. However, that is not always the most practical, or cost effective way to handle the situation.
Pigtailing
If the wire cannot be replaced, the CPSC recommends a few alternative methods to terminating/splicing aluminum wire.
COPALUM Connectors
Using a special connector and tool, joining aluminum wiring to a short piece of copper wire (pigtail) can be a safe solution.  This method may require professional assistance, because special tools and knowledge are required.
AlumiConn Connectors
If COPALUM connectors are not available, AlumiConn connectors may also offer a safe connection. AlumiConn connectors are basically insulated terminal block, which allow a copper pigtail to be connected to the aluminum wire. CPSC recommends that this repair also be conducted by a licensed Electrician.

root mean square or peak, 30A or 40A.  don't worry about this at all.   i see this problem all the time.  aluminum wiring is an accident waiting to happen.  aluminum from 40 years ago should have been replaced 39 years and 364 days ago.  aluminum mechanically, thermally and dielectrically fatigues with every passing year, and it becomes exponentially more so when used in a high current application like supply wire to an electric range or oven.  when copper is connected to aluminum in a junction box, you get galvanism taking place, and the aluminum oxidizes and degrades further.  that is why the connection failed.  it will do so again, and its just a function of time as to when and how.  do yourself a favour and replace the line and the junction boxes.  its not hard to do if you are handy, and not too costly to get an electrician in to do it.  if it saves you and your family's lives and home, its the best solution.


Sump pump: OK to reduce 1.5" to 3/4"? I have a super-insulated house (18" thick walls, whole-house air infiltration barrier, insulated floor system, insulated foundation, conditioned crawlspace). I have a sump pit, but no pump (wasn't sure at build time whether it would be needed; it is).

I need to install a sump pump and an outlet to deal with high groundwater in spring thaw.

Most sump pumps have a 1.5" threaded outlet. Running 1.5" rigid PVC through the insulated floor system and walls will be painful; it will mean a lot of cutting, loose insulation dropping out of the floor, trying to glue a right angle inside an insulated floor system, and a large new puncture in the air infiltration barrier that helps keep the house warm.

I've been thinking of drilling a single diagonal hole (probably 24" or so) through the floor system in the crawlspace out to the exterior wall, and fishing some Pex through it. But I think this would require reducing the 1.5" sump outlet to a 1" or 3/4" Pex pipe.

A couple questions:

I'm fairly confident that this diameter will adequately drain the water -- right now a garden hose through a window is doing the job. But I don't know if there are other reasons not to reduce a sump pump. Will it wear out the motor faster? Increase the chance of outlet pipe bursting?
Is there any reason not to extend the Pex 10-15' from the outlet outside the house, to route it far away from foundation? It's a cold climate, so freezing is possible in e.g. May; but if things are freezing, then there probably isn't as much water to pump.
Any other advice welcome. I've never sumped before.

I have a sump pump that I use with a garden hose. It works great but has a slightly reduced flow capacity. If that size works for you, use it. My greatest concern would be exposure of the pipe to the cold climate. If it freezes, it will not flow water. The smaller pipe (hose) will put more "head" on the pump but should not cause any harm to your pump. As far as cutting a hole to the outside, why not hire someone or rent a drill that can "core drill" an exact size hole to the outside through almost any wall thickness. It will make for a neat and clean hole with little cleanup needed.

What do you mean a garden hose currently works?  Is that what you have connected to a sump pump right now?

Aside from a smaller pipe being more likely to freeze up (that's my guess), you could damage the pump. The pump is designed for a specific discharge pipe size. A smaller pipe can cause back pressure because it can't handle the volume the pump is trying to shove through it. The pump will also run longer each cycle as it will take longer to push the water out.  This all adds up to a shorter lifespan of the pump.

My pump uses a 1.5" discharge and runs to the top of my basement ceiling then about 20' out to the back wall then another 10' outside.  I'm in Ohio and didn't have any problems last winter with that 10' run outside freezing.

I would not recommend using a 3/4" discharge pipe.
Shouldn't be an issue running it farther away, but be sure to have the pipe outside the house drop about 1" for every 8-10' I'd say.  Also, just because it's 20 degrees outside and the water you see is frozen, the ground water (which is what comes in your basement) stays a constant temperature and won't freeze.  I believe the frost line for my area is 3' down.


Pilot light out - propane tank empty I have an unattended house which I kept the gas (propane) furnace running at 62 degrees to help keep pipes from freezing this winter.  I ran out of gas and the furnace shut down.  Can I have the tank filled a day or so before I get to the house to light the pilot?  Will the gas keep running if the pilot is not lit? filling the house with gas.
Thanks

I'll flesh out my comment into an answer.  If this is a newer furnace, no gas will flow if the pilot light is out.  I don't have much experience with furnaces, so for all I know, they were always made like this.

I do have experience with water heaters.  When you light the pilot on your furnace, do you have to hold a button down for a long time while lighting to get the pilot to stay lit?  Or do you just have to turn on the gas and light it?

If you have to hold down a button, then the appliance has the safety feature that will cut off the gas when the pilot goes out.  Holding down the button bypasses the safety valve so some gas will come out and allow you to light the pilot.  Once lit the safety is disengaged.

No worries! No pilot. No Gas. No hazard.


Did I cause problems removing outlet? I removed an electrical outlet by simply disconnecting three wires (ground, hot, and common) and isolating the end of each wire with electrical tape. I have covered the hole and finished the paint work. Now I noticed that a few switches and outlets on another floor of the house stopped working (my non contact voltage detector shows outlets are hot, but connected devices don't work). How can I tell if what I did caused the problem?

You disconnected wires that were hot, wrapped them with electrical tape, and buried them in the wall after removing the junction box. You're not allowed to do that.

You can't terminate live wires anywhere but a box.

So you have 3 choices.

Follow the cable to wherever it goes, positively identify that it that same cable, and remove it from there also, pulling the entire cable out of the wall (or at least, as much as it's possible to remove).  That permanently removes the cable from service.
Route the cable to a place where you can put a junction box, bring them into the box nice-n-legal with appropriate cable clamps, secure them, and then put a blank junction box cover on it.  Or a recep if you want.
Use a Tyco style in-wall splice to extend the cable to somewhere you actually do want a receptacle, fit a box there, and fit a recep there.  This may help with the next part.

Every point on a wall must be within 6' of a recep

(that means following the wall and rounding corners, but not crossing thresholds; presuming the person will lay the appliance cord along the wall perimeter.  Standard cords are 6' long).   So what can happen when you remove a recep higgledy-piggledy, is now you leave a significant part of your wall inaccessible to any receptacle.  That's a code violation.

It is even a code violation if your site is grandfathered to before that was a requirement: you're not allowed to make things worse.

As far as the other circuits breaking

I think there's more to this story.  I think there were more wires than the ones you have mentioned.

You should be ok and definitely use a wire nut and then electrical tape to terminate the end as suggested. You may want to confirm with building codes on what is the proper way to terminate and cover i.e. face plate, wall board, plaster and paint.


How can I seal the edges of a linoleum floor that possibly contains asbestos? The linoleum floor in my kitchen was installed extremely poorly (long before I started renting the apartment). Many of the edges are curling and in some places, it was not cut to the correct size and they just left the excess curled over. I am concerned that the exposed backing has asbestos in it and was wondering if there is a way that I could seal the exposed backing? I am only going to live there for one more year and I suspect that if I go to the landlord, he will have the floor replaced without taking proper safety measures.

EDIT:
Here are some pictures of the floor edges

You are far more likely to die from worrying about asbestos than from asbestos.

I just finished dealing with the same thing you are.  Where possible, I installed engineered flooring and underlayment over the linoleum.  They look killer! :)
My mother, a retired cyto-technologist, kind of laughed at me about my own asbestos concerns.

http://fumento.com/asbestos/asbest.html

From the look of your floor, it looks like you need a new floor for hygiene purposes.
Asbestos is dangerous because the crystals are extremely long and sharp and penetrate the cells that normally clean dirt from the lungs.  The asbestos that would be coming from the area shown would be in pieces not the fine particles that are inhaled and cause illness.

Asbestos is not a toxin or poison, it is the physical structure that is dangerous.
Inhaling fine particles is a problem.  If you are forced to keep the floor, then any sealant that encapsulates the part that you are worried about will safeguard you.

When the Liberty Ships (Inexpensive cargo ships built during WWII) were built, the construction crews worked in areas that were being insulated with asbestos fiber.
The particles were so thick in in the air that some cases it looked like a dust storm.
The workers did not use masks and inhaled quantities of the fibers which caused the mesotheliomas and lung cancer years late.

There were enough cases of illness that attorneys put together a class action suit that stirred up tremendous hysteria. Of cause, it's dangerous to inhale the crystals.
Auto Brake mechanics were at risk because of inhalation of the asbestos in brake linings.

In general, if it isn't inhaled, it isn't likely to be dangerous.
So, as I said have the floor replaced or seal the areas which are friable.
Once sealed, it is harmless.


What could be causing AFCI breaker and GFCI receptacle nuisance tripping? I have a very unusual set of electrical issues that have proven difficult to troubleshoot.

I live in a newly constructed house. Each bedroom has AFCI breakers.

In the past 3 years living there, the AFCI breaker to my bedroom has tripped about a dozen times. All occur sometime in the middle of the night. Each time, resetting the breaker has resolved the problem. Sometimes the breaker will trip when the 1000W Lutron Dummer is turned on. Sometimes it trips while we are asleep.

I have noticed that when the breaker trips the "Arc" light is not activated which I believe means the AFCI breaker tripped due to a ground fault?

Interestingly, almost every time this has occured, two GFCI outlets, one in our kitchen and one in our garage has also tripped, but with much less frequency. In our case this has happened 4 times in 3 years (1-2 times a year). Each GFCI outlet is on a different circuit in this case. The GFCI outlets do not trip if the AFCI breaker doesn't trip.

Also, one GFCI circuit is in a different panel than the other one.

I could replace the AFCI breaker and the 2 offending outlets. Is there something else I should be looking for?

The only thing that I can think of that would cause this problem is something temperature related or perhaps some kind of surge? is that possible?

Things I have heard that can cause an AFCI breaker to trip:

Stack of AFCI breakers in the electrical panel over heating (I
have 4 in a row, with Master Bedroom in the middle
Dimmer (something about Lutron)
Pinched or stapled electrical wire(would this just cause it to trip
consistently though)
Charging electrical gizmos

Things I have heard that can cause a GFCI breaker to trip

Variations in supply voltage
Unbalanced, intermitant loads (I don't have any)
Cheap surge protectors

Things I have heard that can cause an AFCI and a GFCI breaker to trip

Cheap surge protectors (I have a few surge protectors on each AFCI
and GFCI outlets that are tripping). I'm not sure I'd consider them
"cheap".

Could any of this be upstream from me?

Some surge protectors work by "redirecting" surges to the equipment ground, which is pretty much the definition of a ground fault.  In this case, it's definitely possible that surge suppressors could be tripping GFCI receptacles/breakers (given a large enough surge).
As for the AFCIs...  When electrical contacts separate, they often create an arc between the contacts. This arc spans the gap until the contacts are too far apart, and the arc can no longer be sustained. It's possible (in theory) that the GFCI tripping could create a large enough arc, for long enough to cause the AFCI to trip. It's not likely that a properly functioning GFCI would do this, but if the GFCI was old and worn it could be opening the contacts slow enough that a detectable arc is being produced.
Determining if the GFCI tripping is causing the AFCI to trip, is a simple test.  Simply press the test button on the GFCI.  If the AFCI trips, you'll have figured out half the problem. If the ACFI does not trip, you could repeat the test using a receptacle tester with a GFCI test function.

If it's determined that the GFCI is causing the AFCI breaker to trip, replacing the GFCI receptacle may resolve that part of the issue.
Figuring out if the surge suppressor is tripping the GFCI, is a more difficult proposition. It will likely require you to monitor the supply voltage over some time, to identify and document possible surges.

My initial thought was poor a ground somewhere in the circuit causing disparity in the loading and leading to a trip, i.e. a loose ground wire at the panel or receptacle.

See this link for some relevant answers.  It will give you a start in the right direction.

http://www.thecircuitdetective.com/afci_circuit_breakers.htm


What is this closed off pipe under my kitchen sink? This pipe has a very slow leak. What is the pipe for and what is the best way to stop the leak?

It is a drain cleanout. You can try turning it clockwise to see if it tightens enough to stop the leak. If not, have a bucket or pan to catch any spillage, turn it counter clockwise, remove the plug, clean it off and the inside of the pipe. Wrap some Teflon tape around it and screw it back on.

From the perspective of your photo it looks to be perfectly in line with your drain pipe.  So it appears that this is another tap into that line.  Perhaps it wasn't in the right place and rather than remove it they just stacked another one on top of it.
If it's leaking out of the cap, you should be able to remove that, use some thread sealant on the threads and reinsert it.  If it's leaking out of the joint behind the cap, then you may need to do some additional work to cut off the bad joint and fix whatever is going on there.  You may need to open up the wall to get to what you need to get to in order to fix this properly.
If this were mine, I'd likely get rid of this mess entirely. There is no purpose for this extra drain now and it's, as you can see, causing issues.


How can I speed up the rate at which putty dries? We're (slowly) renovating the sash windows in our house and the current window is causing problems. What should have been a quick job (especially at this time of year!) has turned into a marathon because the putty won't dry.

We had to replace a couple of panes of glass (one was cracked and we broke another when using a heat gun to remove the paint) so we knew it would take a little while. On a previous window the putty took over three weeks to dry enough to paint partly because (as we thought) there was too much oil. So this time we rolled the putty on newspaper first to try to remove the excess oil. It seemed to work, but after two weeks the putty is still soft to the touch.

We've tried standing the windows next to a radiator but all that seemed to do was make it softer (which was obviously going to happen in hindsight).

So given that we don't want to reputty the windows what can we do to speed up the drying process.

We've had to seal off the room and cover the window as best we can in the meantime.

I've found this advice on DoItYourself.com which doesn't really help as it says use other materials!

The answers to this post on DIY-Forums are confusing at best and possibly contradictory as one recommends exposing the putty to moisture(!) to speed the drying process.

Heat will make the putty softer, which is why you can heat it up to remove it.  Putty pretty much stays soft for years.  Initially, it doesn't really dry out so much as oxidize which forms a skin on it.

If you absolutely must paint it right away, you'll probably has to use one of the latex based glazing compounds. If you want to use a traditional one, paint it as soon as it forms enough of a skin that the paint will stick to it.  Also, I think you probably should be using oil based paints, but check the instructions on the putty.

If you let use know specifically which putty you are using, that might help get better answers.

You could use a hair dryer and carefully dry the wet glazing.


Unknown rubber piece on electrical box Last night my wife turned on a recessed light in the shower. Shortly after, the light buzzed, got brighter and started smelling so she turned the light off.
I took it apart today and see something I never saw before - a black rubber piece attached to the metal electrical box. I originally thought this was perhaps a sacrificial thing if a wire touches the metal box but the breaker didn't trip. This was the cause of the smell - it was burning.
Will end up replacing all this stuff just in case but what's the black rubberish thing called and what's it's purpose?
My house was built in the US in 1985.

"GTE RP"

To me it looks like it could be a thermal cutout switch, which is designed to interrupt the circuit if the light fixture overheats.

The piece to the left is a cord that has been cut it looks like it had a strain relief / clamp but that’s what it looks like to me I say cord because the cable looks to me to be a cord and the conductor colors not normal for my location U.K.? Possibly. The wire nuts not normal for the U.K. I think.
The new photos don’t look like cut cord. I have never seen a thermal cutout not part of the fixture. But getting several down votes now that more photos show up we will have to see what it is. There is fixture going in the flex but again I have not seen a thermal cutout not part of the fixture or even in the j box.


Insulating/encapsulating crawlspace with HVAC ducting questions In the PNW/Zone 4 climate. The house I am purchasing built in 1942 with an addition added had an inspection performed and it was noted that some of the fiberglass insulation installed under the subfloor between the joists was falling down and/or showing signs of deterioration and/or missing in spots with the sheet vapor barrier missing in a few spots as well and no insulation/wrap on any of the ducting. No A/C just 80% gas furnace in the house with floor vents.

Researching adding insulation options, it seems like the new thought is that vented crawlspaces were done wrong and the new frame of thinking is to encapsulated the crawlspace into the building envelope/conditioned space. I plan to DIY this but a couple of things I had questions on:

Should I remove all the old batting and sheeting if the material is dry if I plan on encapsulating and insulating the walls of the crawlspace and close off the vents?

Mold does not appear to be a significant issue but would fogging the space while its still unoccupied be a good idea?

Is a vapor barrier with 10mil sheeting be sufficient and can I lay this on top of the old sheeting (basically addition underlayment) and up the walls? Is insulation necessary on the ground?

Once the space is encapsulated and insulated does the ducting also need to be insulated? I plan on beefing up the sealing with foil tape and mastic but do I need to wrap as well or would I be better off beefing up the wall/floor insulation?

Once this is all done in the next 5-years my furnace will likely need to be replaced and I would like to move it to the crawlspace with a 90% unit to free up space in the small house would that change much if any of the steps I outlined above in anticipation of this upgrade?

Should I remove all the old batting and sheeting if the material is
  dry if I plan on encapsulating and insulating the walls of the
  crawlspace and close off the vents?

Yes.  Any and all fiberglass bat insulation should be removed.

  Mold does not appear to be a significant issue but would fogging the space while its still unoccupied be a good idea?

I would have the space inspected by a qualified mold remediation specialist.

  Is a vapor barrier with 10mil sheeting be sufficient and can I lay
  this on top of the old sheeting (basically addition underlayment) and
  up the walls?

10 mil vapor barrier is fine.  As to whether you can lay it on top of the existing vapor barrier, opinions differ.  I think that's OK (in fact am thinking about taking that approach myself), but only if there is no possibility of water getting into the crawlspace (pipe leak, from outside, up from the ground) that could then get get between the layers of plastic and just sit there.  If you can't ensure that going forward, then you need to remove the existing vapor barrier.

  Is insulation necessary on the ground?

No, though I have seen where some installers do that.

  Once the space is encapsulated and insulated does the ducting also
  need to be insulated?

Yes, so as to reduce the amount of heat loss from the ducts into a 50 deg crawlspace.

  I plan on beefing up the sealing with foil tape and mastic but do I
  need to wrap as well or would I be better off beefing up the
  wall/floor insulation?

The crawlspace walls should be insulated with foam board and a vapor barrier installed.  No insulation under the floor.

  ...if any of the steps I outlined above in anticipation of this
  upgrade?

You would need to make sure a source of fresh air is provided to the furnace.  And, of course, need to vent the furnace exhaust to the outside.


What is this item? Unknown device in old laundry closet in newer construction house I am planning on turning the space where an old laundry closet used to be into a shower area as part of a more extensive renovation (house was built in 2006). As part of the planning and design part of this process I came upon this black thing sticking out of the wall, which I have no idea what it is? My best guess is it is an old sealed off vent pipe? I figured I would ask here (pic included) to see what it might be before I start tearing up the place. Additionally, if there are any tips on how it could be removed or hidden behind the wall (if possible/permitted by code) that would be appreciated.

For context, the water tray for the old washer is on the bottom. Cold and hot water connections (not seen in pic) are further up on the wall to the right of the unknown device.

Thanks!

It looks to me like a drain clean-out. If your drain pipes clog deep in the system, the cap can be removed to get a fairly straight shot down to the common sewer for a roto-rooter-type machine.

You should probably find a new location to add one in  its place.

Looks like the gas line, and the dryer vent. Way too small to be a clean out.


Anything wrong with this ground wire? Is it supposed to be insulated? Panel is from the late 1970's. Looks like there was some insulation on the ground wire, but most of it has come off. It's the same way through the crawlspace.

The best solution is to attach the ground wire to a copper stake that is driven into the ground close to the home. Ground wires should be insulated as at some time they may be live and dangerous.


Generator Manual Transfer Switch When I moved into my house I noticed an electrical box with two switches on it that connected to thermal safety switch for my hot water heater and heater for the house (forced hot water). I have posted a picture below. My question is what exactly is this? Is this a type of manual transfer switch that I can attach a portable generator to? Thanks in advance for your responses.

Disclaimer: my answer is based of off the Ontario Electrical Safety Code (26th Edition/ 2015) Current Edition. I would advise calling a licensed electrical contractor in your area and have them see if this complies with your local rules and regulations.

It does appear to be a very crude and illegal generator transfer switch. I would look on the outside of your house or the shed (if applicable) for a empty area with a dead end box (if it was hardwired) or a generator inlet box (if it was a plugin style) this will be where the generator was previously.

I would also suggest that you take a good look at anything else that looks like it was added by the previous owner as this is not the proper method of isolation for a transfer switch and was likely done without a permit which means the it and other homeowners additions may not be safe. Call a electrical contractor and ask them to inspect this and see if it is safe.


Electric wiring in a kitchen island My contractor installed wires for an extra outlet in my kitchen island that I do not want.  Can I just leave that wire in the cabinet and not install the outlet?

Depending on your jurisdiction and building permit, you may be obliged to install an outlet.

If you're legally permitted to not have one, then just cap the wires in a closed approved junction box that is 'accessible' within the cabinet. (I put accessible in quotes because it doesn't have to be really easy to get to... just don't put it somewhere -- like underneath the toekick -- that requires actual disassembly for access.)

Do the future you a favor and don't cut the wire back.

Although I agree with Jeffery, I see no reason to install the outlet if you don't want it. (When you say extra I'm assuming you now have one) If you don't use the wire as intended however, you are obligated to safe it up properly.  At a minimum clip the ends of the wires of the cable at different lengths, tape them individually then as a group; a box would be nice but could be optional.


Why not double up on PEX cinch clamps? I'm looking to replace some copper pipe with PEX. The online debate seems heated, although local plumbers I've talked to seem indifferent about the particulars, just praising PEX in general vs. copper.

Some of the online debate around cinch clamps involves anecdotes about them failing a small percentage of the time. For example, it was mentioned in this question. Given the low cost of cinch clamps and ease of application, would it be a good idea to double up on clamps on each fitting? Any reason this wouldn't be cheap insurance?

I do not think it would be a good idea to double up on the clamps.  When you are clamping PEX onto a fitting, you want to try to get the clamp near the middle of the fitting, ideally between two ribs.  With two clamps, it wouldn't be possible to do this.

To ease your trepidation about the staying power of the clamps, do a test clamp on a fitting.  Let it stay overnight, and then try to get it off.  You should find that it's very strong.  If you ask me, the PEX + clamps is tougher than copper and solder.

The idea of crimps are flawed and leakage around the two crimp bumps are likely.
In order to pull a crimp tight, you need to bunch up material at the crimper's closure point. This means there is a noncontact area around the two raised bumps. My joint failures show this clearly, there are no embossed ridges at the bump areas and water stains show leakage at the point where the crimps are raised away from the pipe at the crimp bumps

Secondly why is pipe compound not recommended?

Screwed-tight pipe clamps stretch out, why do we believe cinch clamps will not?


Fixing the slope of a flat roof I consider myself pretty handy, but when it comes to roofing I have very little experience.  I have re-shingled a couple of roof's but that's it.

My home is a 1915 victorian home built with a roof sufficiently sloped to not require gutters.  At some point someone put a flat roof sun room on the back of the house.  The rain pours off the main house on the the flat roof and pools.  It is leaking in multiple places including against structural components of the original house.  I know I should probably add gutters, but right now I'm more concerned with stopping the pooling water.  It seems that the overall pitch will need to be changed.  Does anyone have any experience with something like this?  I'm not exactly sure where to start.  I tried half a dozen contractors and nobody even wants to look at it.  I'm sure it's less than fun work, but I think I need to do it.  I don't mind doing it myself I just need to know how to get started.

I see two solutions: 1) add slope to your roof, and/or 2) install a tank liner roofing

1) Adding slope can be done two ways: a) cut tapered wood members and install new roof sheathing and a new roof. This can be done on top of the existing roof sheathing or remove the existing sheathing and sister in sloped joists. Either way it will be difficult. b) install tapered insulation on top of the existing sheathing. Then install a low slope roofing. You can buy rigid board insulation that starts at 0” height and increases 1/4” per foot. It can slope one way or two ways (with a ridge or hip).

Either alternative has consequences. You’ll be increasing the slope so the roof will get higher and could encroach on the upper roof.

2) Tank liner roofing is basically used to hold water. So, the ponding water you’re experiencing is not a problem. However, tank liners are not made to resist ultra violet rays from the sun so it will decompose in a few years if not protected. I’d install a painted roof coating that reflects the suns rays. You’ll need to reinstall every few years due to wear.

Flat roofs always leak eventually if they are made of a soft material. The normal solution would be to simply replace the existing rubber roof with a new rubber roof. Making a rubber roof is a messy job and requires some skill. Your first attempt will probably leak, so you probably will need to do it 2 or 3 times before you get it right.

The best kind of flat roof is called a flat seam roof. It requires soldering together panels of copper. It is very time consuming and costly to build, but will last for 200 years if done right. You would need to be trained to learn how to do it.


How to seal straight-thread faucet shank / nipple to the faucet? I have a faucet which requires installation of a separate threaded 'shank' or nipple which acts as both the water supply inlet and also is used to anchor the faucet to the sink deck. These are supplied as separate parts to allow for varying thickness of countertops.

(Shown in the photo below - one male end of the shank goes into the faucet body, the other end protrudes through the sink and is fastened tight with the nut & washer).

These shanks have a 1/2" IPS straight thread. They are not NPT tapered. So I was expecting to use a rubber O-ring or washer when screwing them into the faucet. However there is no 'seat' or other surface in the faucet where such a part could go. It would literally just get lost inside the body of the faucet (before the valve).

I had thought the golden rule was that tapered threads require sealant (or tape) and straight threads require a washer/o-ring. But this faucet seems to allow for neither. The instructions with the faucet don't say.

I attempted to take apart some other old faucets to see how this was done, but the shanks were impossible to unscrew.

So - how can I seal these parts?

(Note - the faucet happens to be a Whitehaus WHFS9813-12-C.)

The scenario you've described is not ideal. The faucet was manufactured to a sub-optimal design. In this case, you must either select a different faucet, or improvise. Chicago Faucet has been using this same type of design on their wall and deck faucets for many years. They use an adhesive on their straight threads from the factory.

@DaveInCaz suggested you use a thread sealant. I would recommend an anerobic pipe thread sealant. Allow the nipple to cure into the faucet before attempting to connect your supply lines to the nipples. The torque you apply to tighten the supply line to each nipple could break the seal between the nipple and the faucet if you don't.

Your alternate choice is to select a different faucet.

I use a product called "LeakLock" it comes in a tube and is a blue paste, like teflon paste only much better, this stuff seals everything from refrigerants to water to gas, any pressures, available online or at appliance parts stores and HVAC parts houses, like Jonstone supply, Standard Appliance Ebay and Amazon sell it too.


How do I lubricate plastic rollers for sliding closet doors? I just installed some new sliding closet doors, but unfortunately they're a bit squeaky/noisy when operating. They are "Reliabilt" doors from Lowes, the actual company that makes these is SGA. There's nothing in the instructions and nothing on their website about suggested maintenance/lubrication.

I'm not entirely sure what the rollers are made of, they're some kind of plastic or nylon rollers that fit in an extruded aluminum track.

What kind of lubricant can I use that won't break down the plastic, or gum it up over time from dust/etc?

Any dry silicon spray lube will be fine also.  Do not use and petroleum based lubes or WD40. Wet type lubes attract dirt and dust and get very messy. Same advise goes for door hinges.

I actually used a candle I rubbed the candle all over the sliders . It worked great .


There is a brown burn mark on my dryer's vent . Is this normal or do we need to unplug the dryer and run?

No. burn marks are not normally seen on dryer vents. If the scorched mark was caused by excessive heat from the dryer (and not by an unrelated incident) then there is a potential hazard and danger from your appliance. Without more details and photos it will be difficult to offer a specific reason, but these are some suggestions that you can check. After unplugging the dryer cord remove the exhaust duct attached to the rear of the back wall. Using a flashlight peer inside looking for critical build up of lint. Use a vacuum, regardless of what amount of lint is noted, to clean the dryer vent. Continue vacuuming the duct projecting from the back wall of the dryer. Re-install the vent and check for normal operation. If you still have any doubts to the normal and safe operation of your appliance it would be wise to have a professional inspect it and give you his opinion before using it again.

The problem is that the clothes,or more specifically a piece of clothing gets stuck between the dryer door and the seal that surrounds it .Friction causes the burn marks.


How should I troubleshoot and unclog an outdoor drain? Our back concrete patio directs water to a nearby outdoor drain.  The drain consists of what seems to be a 5 Inch green PVC pipe with a plastic grate cover that sticks out of the ground a few inches.

The drain pipe goes down into the ground 8 - 10 inches and then turns sharply so that the drain is parallel to the side of our house and going towards the front of the house (presumably exiting out towards the street). I'm not sure where the drain comes out (I've never seen this drain work and it's been clogged since we bought the house.

Since the drain doesn't work, water on the back patio has no where to go (fun fun fun).  I need help/advice on how to troubleshoot and correct this before rain season.

I was initially thinking using a hose or auger to see how far down the clog is. But if/when I do find the clog, I'm not sure how to fix it. Dig up the entire pipe?

I was also thinking of pouring water down the drain, trying to loosen it with the hose/auger, and checking the front of our house to see if I can find an exit point.

Any ideas, feedback, assistance would be greatly appreciated.

One frequent cause of backups is that a root from a tree or large bush has grown into the pipe. If that's happened to you, you'll need to dig up the clogged area to sever the root and then repair the pipe, or if it's a porous drain pipe, wrap it in a landscaping fabric.

As Tester says, use a snake to see what you can find. You can also measure the distance until the snake gets stuck to get an idea of where you need to dig. Pay attention to any bends you feel the snake making on the off chance it isn't a straight run to the front.

Once you have an idea from one side, I'd fill the drain up with water on a dry day and see if you can find the outlet. Then try snaking from that outlet as well since the clog may be a long one from sediment building up over time. Again, measure the distance, and now you'll have an overall area to check.

Just rent an auger and auger it out; simple to do.  Or hire an auger company to do it for you. And yes, the clog should definitely be flushed out of the pipe with water, while augering or after you/they think the clog is broken up.