Why does only half of my outlet work? I just moved into a new place. I plugged my vacuum into an electrical outlet, my vacuum won't turn on. So I tried the other side, my vacuum turns on. I then plug in a lamp to the side that won't work for my vacuum, lamp turns on.
Is the outlet defective?

Maybe it is wired that way on purpose. Two receptacles in our bedroom are wired like that. One side is normal,always on. The other side is operated by a wall switch so you can turn on a plugged-in lamp with the wall switch and have a radio always powered by the other side.

Definitely change it.it may not even be,or ever was originally connected to a stud. find the closest stud to that mess,cut that mess out then patch the sheetrock after you change the outlet and insert it into the proper box that's nailed to a stud.  Around here you could have it repaired for around $100. Done yourself about $15 to $20.


Best way to divide TV roof antenna to several rooms I am renovating a new house (in the UK).  The roof antenna at present is only connected directly to the main tv socket, I would like to add more tv points to most rooms in the house but am unsure of the best (and cheapest) way to split the single incoming RF signal.

Note: only two or three TVs will be in use at any one time.

Ground floor - 5 TV sockets.  First floor - 6 TV sockets.  Second floor - 4 TV sockets.

Do I take take the main antenna cable into the loft space and split it 15 ways with long cables leading directly to each wall socket.  Or do I split each floor with a feed down to the next, ie Second floor split 4 ways + 1 to the next floor, where it is split 6 ways + 1 to the next, where it is split 5 ways.

Which is the best option to ensure good signal at each output and also in terms of cost of length of cable vs running powered amplifiers?

What type of splitters are best suited for this job?

For that many outlets, you should invest in a "TV distribution amplifier". A search using that phrase brings up many suitable products.

You'll be much happier with the results compared to a "tree" of passive splitters.

Optimizing the cable runs is a separate question that depends strongly on the physical layout of the house. Per-floor amplifiers might make sense in some cases, while per-wing amplifiers might make sense in others.

It might make sense to use one 2- or 3-way passive splitter to send the signal to multiple distribution amplifiers.

With that many outlets, you need to use TAPS
not splitters.
......
By using taps, you can make the signal.level the same at every outlet.
.......
Using splitters, you will have close tvs severely overloaded and far tvs will have too weak a signal


Would this air conditioner setup work? Forgive me for my poor paint skill:

I have this small room, one door, no windows, one skylight. I'm planning to buy a portable air conditioner and put the hot air pipe near the lower area of the skylight, pressed against the mosquito net. Note that air will still be able to pass through all the net, not only the part near the pipe.

Room is about 3x3m width, 2.5m height. Skylight is about 1x1m width, 2m height.

The plan is that hot air should be able to get outside because it leaves the pipe with a certain speed and also hot air should go up because that's what hot air does.

During the day, when the air conditioner will be on, all windows in the rest of the house will be closed, so air should have no reasons to enter from the skylight. But even if they were open, 90% of the time air flows from windows to the skylight.

My doubts are:

Will hot air really go out?
In the "all windows are closed"
case, if air goes out, it must also get in somewhere... the rest of
the house is like six times the size of the room and in the kitchen
(the furthest room) there are two small holes in the wall (10cm
radius) for security reason (in case of gas leaks).

EDIT:
The air conditioner that I'm looking at doesn't have a second input pipe, so I guess it will pull air directly from the room, and the room will pull it from the skylight. Now... It might create an air flow like the one in the updated picture where most of the hot air still get's out, or just suck back the hot air inside... What's the most probable outcome? Even if I find one with the input pipe, it will be useless if I can't put them both outside AND far from each other right? If so, I guess I'm out of luck...

Except you are pumping hot air out of the room.  You are trying to create a vacuum in the room, and nature abhors a vacuum.  It will push an equivalent amount of air back into the room via every possible path, in proportion to their air resistance.

Most likely it is simply going to push air down your skylight, handing your hot air right back to you.

Most of those portable air conditioners that put a hose on the condenser output, also have options to also put a hose on the condenser input. You'll want to figure that out.

keep in mind you only drew the two air conditioner outputs.  There are also two air inputs - one to the condenser, and one to the evaporator (which outputs cold air).  On most units they are separate, or at least separable.

Since only the condenser output leaves the room, only the condenser input needs to be drawn from outside the room.  The evaporator outputs into the room, so the evaporator input can also be inside the room.

Most portable ac units are not efficient because most of the heat is not removed
There is a new product out there called a portable split system.
it is designed for small rooms and is completely portable


Do power outlet splitters decrease power for each deviced connected to them? If I have a one to three outlet splitter, would this mean that each outlet only gets one-third power, or do all three get full power?

If split, all plugs will get the same access to "power".

Your outlets themselves are splitters: in general several outlets share a run of wire back to the power source.  The external "spliter" is no different, it just provides more connection points to the same electrical circuit.

However: the total circuit capacity is neither increased nor decreased by a splitter. Devices "draw" current based on their needs: for example a motor generally draws more power when loaded than when spinning freely.  If the total draw exceeds the circuit capacity, a protective device will trip.  The protective device is usually set at 15 or 20 amps in a residential circuit.

Extra connections or total extension cord length can have a minor effect: a long thin cord with a heavy load can heat up, using up some of the electricity in transmission. In effect the wire becomes an electric resistance heater.  This effect is usually negligible.

I work for an internet company and I do see the effect of old surge protectors, if they are older than 5 years they usually cause a lot of resistance that does effect the router, but more importantly what else is plugged in with routers makes a huge difference how a powerstrip wears and tears, avoid plugging in lamps, printers, speakers, heaters, scanners, toasters, anything that heats or cools, it is usually the power draw of other devices that stress out the low power DC devices that are usually wireless/internet capable. most devices last longer and work better if plugged in this way, I have 25 years of experience in saving money this way.


Is there a way to thaw a frozen pipe, if you can't access the pipe? Big freeze, new house.  Just found out the add-on bathroom was plumbed by amateurs, and the cold water supply froze.  I don't have access to the frozen section of pipe (without major demo), so I can't heat the pipe directly.
If I open the hot and cold tap on the sink faucet at the same time, while also opening the cold tap on the tub in an adjacent bathroom (which is also affected by the frozen pipe). The hot water backflows through the diverter of the faucet, and comes out in the tub.  I'm using this backflow technique to try and heat the pipe enough to hopefully, break up the ice in the pipe.
All this got me wondering. If I have a plumber come out, is there anything they can do?  Do they have a special tool or technique to deal with this situation?  Would the plumber simply want to start cutting holes in the walls/ceiling to gain access to the pipe?

More info:
The water supply for the second bathroom seems to be tapped off the tub supply lines of the original bathroom. In the original bathroom the sink and toilet work, but the cold supply for the tub does not.  This means that the frozen section of pipe is after the sink in the original bathroom, but before the tub in the same bathroom.

Rough sketch of cold water plumbing

Rough sketch of cold water plumbing highlighting suspected frozen section

Rough sketch of cold water plumbing showing hot water backflow path

If it's a metal/copper pipe, you could wrap the exposed portion of the pipe in heat tape to help speed the thaw. Since metal and water are good conductors of heat, the heat from the tape will spread fairly quickly down the pipe.

Or even just use a hair dryer. Not as efficient or quick, but still helpful.

People think that leaving a faucet trickling will keep water flowing but that's not the reason for keeping the faucet open because if it's cold enough even trickling water will freeze. The reason to keep the faucet open is to release pressure to prevent a burst pipe. Inside a pipe there is air and water. When water freezes it expands forcing the air that's trapped in the pipe to move toward the faucet end.  If the faucet is closed there is no where for that air to go.  It's this trapped air, which has no place to go, that burst the pipe, not the water in the pipe.


New House Wiring in Attic + Conduit I own an old house (50s) for which the electrical is outdated (no ground, etc), so I am in the process of rewiring the whole house. The attic has tons of insulation (loose insulation atop fiberglass batts, etc), and below the insulation often it has plywood boards (subfloor). Navigating and finding anything through all this insulation is a real pain and time consuming.

Since much of the wire will be routed onto the top of the plywood (and not beside the joists at 1 1/4" from their edges) once I run the wires parallel to the joists (joists are below plywood subfloor) I would imagine that the wire would need to be protected by a conduit or wood strips; so can one use emt conduit instead of wood strips on top of the attic subfloor and could the conduit be attached to the attic subfloor wherein the wires would run (and in case someone would go the attic he/she could step on the conduits)? It would be romex (sometimes thhn) inside the conduit (and the conduit would be derated to accommodate the nm-b wiring).

By the way, the attic is accessible; and the conduit seems a much better option due to make it easier to upgrade and change the wires in the future.

If you're running the wiring along the floor of the attic; or within 7' of the floor, you'll have to protect the wiring within 6' of the point of access. Unless the attic is accessible via a permanent staircase or ladder, then you'll have to protect the wiring run across the floor (or within 7' of the floor) throughout the entire attic.

I've quoted the actual code on this elsewhere on the site

you cannot leave the outside jacket on if you are running it thru conduit. it is a  code violation and you will fail inspection if you are getting it inspected


Looking for a "lightbulb" that wirelessly controls an electrical outlet To explain the context, I have a lightbulb socket in the ceiling of my apartment, which I do not want to use, and a floor lamp which I do want to use. The light in the ceiling is controlled by a light switch, but no outlets are controlled by any switch.

I'm not sure if such a product exists, but what I would like is something that I can plug into the lightbulb socket (or just wire up like a light fixture), and something that I can plug into my outlet, such that when I use the switch to turn on the light, the outlet is powered on, and when I turn off the light, the outlet is powered off.

Essentially I want a wireless connection between my ceiling light fixture and an electrical outlet on the wall.

I don't want to change the actual wiring in the apartment as:

I'm renting it, I don't own it
It's expensive
I may want to move the lamp in the future

Does something like this exist? Ideally I'm looking for something that will work with European plugs/voltages, but products for other regions would still be helpful.

How about something like this? You plug the switched outlet into the regular outlet and the remote switch operates your new outlet. You can mount the switch where ever you want. These are available at many home stores and Walmarts. They're inexpensive, about $10 to 15 bucks

Depending if you want to play around with home automation solutions, it is trivially easy with a Shelly relay.
You wire the relay (which is wifi connected) behind the outlet, it is now switched on/off by by said relay. Behind the light switch you wire a Shelly i3 scene automator, powered by the mains (also on wifi), but now the switch is wired to the i3 instead of the light bulb.
Now the i3 can be programmed to switch on the other relays when the light switch is thrown, there is no external hardware, there is no separate automation hub required, power relays are CE marked, all APIs fully open, and you can also switch the outlets using a phone or a future automation system. All for about 40 euros.
I would suggest replacing the switch with a push button as it gives more control, as listed on the product page you can have double press and long press actions that differ, if you ever wanted to expand the ecosystem.
Edit 2020-10-01
As per comments, it should be noted that the relay is offered in non UL listed version, and a version UL certified for both the US and Canadian markets. Both are CE marked for European markets. The difference between the 2 versions is 5 euros, their European web shop selects the non UL version by default, and their US shop selects the UL version by default, but you are free to select either version if you choose. Their dual switching relay does not currently have a non UL listed version.
The actual difference between the UL and non UL version is the polymer shell and AC load/neutral connectors, which has higher temperature ratings for UL, but this is not listed on their product page.


Safe way to remove paint from ground wire? I'm addressing an item on our house's inspection report where a GFCI outlet had been ungrounded. I turned off power at the breaker box, popped the outlet cover off and found the ground wire neatly tucked into the corner. When I pulled it out, I saw paint covering the ground as shown below:

From what I've researched so far, I should not attach the ground as-is, since the paint interferes with the metal-to-metal contact. Would using a chemical stripper be the best way to remove the paint? If not, what should I use?

Just some sand paper will be fine. You don't want to use a chemical stripper as it may interact poorly with the copper.

I would definitely recommend some type of light abrasive, sandpaper,as mentioned is fine. (No pun), as would be steel wool.


Will big box home supply stores cut Zinc-Plated Slotted Angle pieces to size for customers? Will big box home supply stores cut Zinc-Plated Slotted Angle pieces to size for customers?

Things like

The shortest they sell at my local home depot is 5 feet, but from one piece, should they be able to cut it into a few pieces for me just like they would for lumber?

If they can't, how could I? Would a reciprocating saw with a blade for metal do the trick?

They may.

But if not, you can do it with a reciprocating saw using a metal blade (but watch out; some are only rated for copper or brass) or a manual hack saw. The steel in these angles is pretty mild (soft) and is cut with just a little effort.

The most important thing is to firmly brace the metal before trying to cut.  If you have a vise, that is ideal. If not, you can place the metal over a piece of 2x4 so that both legs are sitting against wood. Clamp the steel to the wood. Firmly attach the 2x4 to some rigid item, screwing or nailing it on temporarily if necessary.

Cut slowly. If the metal binds, you can use a little light oil to lubricate the cut. Each cut will only take a minute or two.

You can use a metal cutting wheel or a hacksaw, but I would be careful about cutting zinc-plated steel, if you inhale too much zinc you could get metal fume fever, you might want to wear a painting respirator, especially if you ever do a lot of cutting of zinc-plated metal. The other poster gave some good tips but I just wanted to be sure that you were aware of the risks of cutting objects containing zinc. Also Home Depot has been known to cut wood for people but Menards doesn't, they usually just sell more sizes instead of having a saw on site like home depot. But I only know that they cut wood, I never asked if they could cut metal, so they might or they might not. Also the fact that it's zinc coated steel might mean they can't because of some safety law, but I'm not sure about that either.


How far apart are studs? I'm using a stud finder to find studs behind dry wall and so far I've found 2 and they are 16" apart. Does that mean that there will be a stud every 16" or might the distance change between studs? Is 16" the standard for stud centers?

Yes, in most US residential construction they are 16" center to center. Most of your standard tape measures have every 16th inch noted in red or some other way. Some internal walls may also be spaced 24" on center.

However, there may be exceptions where a door window or odd length wall is used so be sure to verify with a stud finder or a knock on the wall to check.

how about a look-see in the attic, crawl space, etc to see what basic construction is, own a 1969 block wall 1 story, ceiling studs seem to be 24" on center


When to use electrical tape rather than wire nuts? I was always under the impression that wire nuts created a better electrical connection than using electrical tape. I'm still under this impression and I think it is correct. However, I was taking apart a junction box in my basement last night and found a connection that piqued my interest. This is older wiring, so I was a little bit worried that maybe it was aluminum wiring, but it looks like it is copper. However I am unsure why there would be the coating /solvent / solder on here. The whole thing was then wrapped up in electrical tape. Is there a reason that this wasn't connected using a wire nut? It's not aluminum wiring, right?

I tend to agree with the comments

This is an inline splice
Whomever did this was covering solder

So, having said that...

Electrical tape is good for insulating wire. It cannot hold wires together. In this case, the solder is holding the wires, but I really wouldn't trust solder for electrical wires. Wires can get warmer when in use, which could weaken or break the solder.

Wire nuts involves twisting the wires together, meaning the wires hold themselves in position, The nut insulates the top and helps (somewhat) stop movement.

I would only use electrical tape on a wire that has had its insulation damaged.

Well i dont think they use shrink tube in house wiring, but if you had zero slack on the wire, thats what I would do. Put some heatshrink on one side loose, and then do some kind of solder and heat shrink it up so no one could see the mess. But yeah wire nut or even better are those new locking connectors (lever lock quick connect terminal blocks according to search engine) for all connections that might one day need to be removed.

The person who did this wanted it to be permanent, perhaps to simply extend a short wire if its in a box. Has nothing to do with better electrical conductivity. But really who can get in the mind of the electrical taper? not me! just fix it if you can or re wrap that sucker and hope it is out of the way... I'm not sure i have seen soldered mains wire in any apartment or house i have owned... The risk is obviously it shorting out (poor insulation, insufficient tape, etc), people tie copper wire together all the time and its fine. But the exposed copper is generally inside something, like a wire nut.


Ideas of how to fit a door here? I’m about to start working on putting a door here but I’m thinking of how I should do it.
Here’s a video - the opening is a bit awkward, I’ve thought that I’m going to have to trim the shelves where the door will swing out a bit... but need some ideas on what might be the best way to do this.
video of doorway potential

I presume you’re going to get a Building Permit to do the work. If so, I can see several Code violations that you’ll need to correct:

Incorrect height of handrail.

Handrail does not extend far enough at top of stair.

Height of ceiling on top landing is too low.

Incorrect bedroom window size. Window needs to be changed to egress window regardless if the door is added or not. (Egress window has a minimum opening width and height for emergency exiting...and emergency rescue.)

Smoke detector is required for sleeping rooms...

If you add the door, make sure the top landing remains the width of the stairway and has a depth of 36” in the direction of the stair, if the door swings out over the landing. (See ICC R311.5.4) No required size of landing is required if the door does not swing out over the landing.
Maybe the new door could swing into the bedroom.


Prevent dead animals in basement window wells How can I prevent animals from dying in my basement window wells?    The wells are about two feet deep and have a clear plastic covers over them.   The covers don't fit tightly and critters seem to get in.    I just removed:

15 garter snake carcasses
1 live garter snake
2 Snake skins
4 dead rodents
1 live frog
2 dead frogs
3 dead lizards or salamanders

Many of them had clearly been there for years -- many of the remains were skeletal or desiccated.

Here is a picture of one of the window wells (hammer for scale):

I'd like to prevent this problem in the future.    I'm thinking that I could:

Seal the window wells better (how?)
Provide a stick or ladder that would allow critters to exit without getting stuck and dying
Use repellant

Which of those options should I pursue, or is there something better?

I think I finally found a solution. I had tried chicken wire, and it was moderately helpful... apparently, frogs couldn’t use it. I tried angling tree branches for critters to crawl out on, but that didn’t work for frogs, either.

So, I bought some pool noodles and cut them to secure around the top of the window well, and there have been no more critters in the window well! I was skeptical but was willing to try anything. I’m not sure how it works so well, but it is apparently the solution. Here’s what I did:

I purchased a package of black (to match the window well) pool noodles. I didn’t want to create a place for mice to live and chew into the noodle, so I got ones that were dense... ones that had the smallest “hole” on the inside.
I measured and cut so the noodles fit very snuggly onto the rim of the window well without any gaps. I literally wedged the noodles in on the sides... they are really snug.

When I finished, I realized there was still a gap between the window well and the cover, so I eventually bought some rope caulk to fill in the gaps. But when I finally got the time to add the rope caulk, I noticed that there was not a single critter in the window wells, not even bugs.

So, I didn’t add the rope caulk and have had no problems since adding the pool noodles, about 4 months ago. We have had warm temperatures and now frost in the evenings (hence the icy edges in the pics), and still no critters.

Save the frogs! :-)

Could you cap it with an acrylic sheet? Let's the light in, but not pest/water/snow.


What are the differences between SDS, SDS Plus, and SDS Max drills? Basically I had to use a breaker last weekend, it was clear I did not need the “heavy duty” as I did not have 6” of solid concrete, but the descriptions of the other options  confused me.

The SDS chuck system was the original developed by Bosch.
SDS Plus is an improvement on the original SDS system, but remains
compatible with SDS bits, and is now the most commonly seen on the
market.

SDS Max is designed for the heaviest masonry work, and is
incompatible with SDS/SDS+ bits.

(source: wikimedia.org)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit_shank#SDS_shank

It sounds like for your application, SDS Plus would be the way to go, given that they are generally less expensive, and you don't have really tough masonry work to do.

If your doing domestic builds, small-medium shops, garden patios, sheds etc SDS+ is great. If your working on a tower-block, building a mall, shop from scratch, SDS Max. It's not just about the bit but the tool your connecting it to. An 18V set of tools are great with SDS+ for example. The battery pack you choose, if using cordless, will also have a big bearing on the quality of the end job. If buying or using corded make sure the voltage is compatible if working of a generator on site.


Is there an easy way to measure the height of a tree? I'm looking to get an antenna installed for Internet service that will need to clear some trees on my neighbor's property because it requires a clear line of sight to work.

I really don't trust my estimating skills enough to plunk down money on a utility pole that might be too short or too tall. And climbing the tree with a tape measure (in my neighbors yard) is a bit intrusive and dangerous.

Is there a clever way that I can get a reasonably close (within 5' or so) estimate of the height of the tree other than eyeballing it?

I thought about putting together a bunch of 10' runs of PVC pipe and holding it up against the tree, but that is going to get pretty unwieldy by about 30' and the trees are at least that tall.

My other thought is to break out my old Trig textbooks and use the angle/distance to tree, but it seems like it would be pretty hard to judge the angle correctly, maybe with a laser pointer or something?

Any other ideas?

Find a stick the same length as your arm. Hold your arm out straight and level with the stick pointing straight up (90° to your outstretched arm). Walk forward/backward until the tip of the stick coincides with the top of the tree. Your feet are now at approximately the same distance from the tree as it is high.  (For a more precise approximation, back up by the additional distance of the height of your arm above the ground.)  The relationship is true only if the tree is significantly taller than you are, and the ground is relatively level.  Time-tested logger method. Simple.

Use a Drone! (or a Kite or a Balloon)

This seems rather obvious, but if you fly a gps unit to the top  of the tree, you can subtract the altitude of the base of the tree and determine the tree's height.

The drone is by far the easiest method: measure the altitude of the base of the tree while setting up the drone, press the up button until your drone is hovering over the tree, and read off the altitude.

This method is probably the fastest if you have multiple trees you need to measure.


How can I get my ceiling fan lights working again? After my light kit on my hunter type 2 fan stopped working I determined there is power entering this device (white wire) but none exiting it (pink wire). The pink wire runs to the pull chain for the lights.  I went so far as to buy another fan assembly with new light kit and replace the whole thing but I have the same problem. Fan works, lights don't.  Same issue power into the device , nothing out?  Any ideas?   I have replaced the fan for now with a 5 bulb ( 40 watt each) light fixture which is working fine.  Frustrating.....

There should be black, white and green (or bare) wires at the fan.

The green or bare connects to all metal work-box and/or green screws.

The white, neutral connects to the fan white and the light white.

The black goes to the light via any switch it may have.

I tested all my wires connection to connection, found out the pink wire was the problem.


220v 30amp circuit, tool needs 220v 20amp service I have existing 220v 30amp circuit not being used. I’m installing 2hp motor on table saw that requires 220v 20amp service. Can I use the 30amp circuit?

The short answer is yes.  The basic parameters are acceptable.  However, a load like this is not like plugging in a table lamp.  The power supply for this saw must meet a number of safety and professional standards; wire size, breaker size, wire terminations, length of run, among them.  And, you can shorten the life of the saw motor if you neglect even one.


How to reduce noise from my refrigerator? I live in a studio appartment and there is a fridge in my room which makes sleeping difficult. Is there a way to reduce the noise it makes? Is it maybe possible to cover it with noise insulant without keeping the waste heat inside?

Update:

Thanks for your tips and hints. I just moved the refrigerator from the kitchen behind a little wall:

I’m wondering if I could cover this alcove with a heavy curtain (maybe using polyester fiber as HerrBag suggested). Do you think the air volume (~ 0.7 m x 1.7 m x 2.3 m) and the walls would suffice to absorb the heat (and noise) of the refrigerator?

Most refrigerator alcoves are mini reverberation chambers, having hard sides.  You may be able to place acoustic foam behind the refrigerator to absorb the sounds.

If you're handy sewing, you could copy this design for a sound reduction blanket using polyester fiber fill used for coats.  As a trial, just loop a couple of layers of the batting off a couple eye hooks and leave space for air circulation.  You may have to use some twine to  belt it down flat.  If it works, enclose in a cotton sack stitched down like a quilt.

To be clear, I'm only suggesting a flat wall hanging, nothing to trap heat.

Better than turning it on and off, put the thing on a timer... off at 12am on at 7am.


Is grout required when installing luxury vinyl tile flooring? My wife and I are redoing two bathrooms.  My wife hates ceramic tile due to mold issues here in the South Eastern US and generally not liking the grout which requires frequent cleaning and resealing.

My questions are on the use of Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT)flooring - my wife would prefer to go with either the LVT, or a high end single sheet product that is tough and will hold up to water. Her preference is to use the LVT without grout. However, I'm skeptical on how well the LVT will hold up to moisture without the grout and cleaning will be an issue.  And am I right about the need for waterproofing or would the flooring work well any way?  Is there a way to waterproof the joints on LVT without grouting? Also, do the vinyl flooring grouts have the same issues as the ceramic tile grout?

I installed LVT a couple years ago in a rehab center. 2 bedrooms and a 2000 sq foot dining room. The product interlocks very tightly. It's pretty easy to install because it cuts with a utility knife. I think if I were to put it in a bathroom I would just clear-caulk it along the baseboard.  The interlocking joints are tight if installed correctly. I would only not use it if the manufacturer advised against using it in such an environment.

Instead of trying to force fit a product not really intended for a shower wall maybe you would want to consider installing the molded fiberglass one-piece type tub / shower enclosure in place of your existing installation. These pretty much eliminate any need for grout joints, are easy to clean and can look surprisingly nice. (My house has three of them, two showers and a tub, and whilst they came with the house when I purchased it I am quite happy with them).


How do I remove blown in attic insulation? I want to replace the drywall ceiling in my house. It's old and has been painted over a million times. Home was built in the 50s. How do I replace the ceiling without replacing the insulation? Or if I take out the insulation to replace it with new, is there a best way of doing it? Insulation is all blown in cellulose. Thought about just shoveling it into bags and into a dumpster. That would take a while. Home is one story. 950 sq ft. Seattle area.

Maybe you should consider putting a layer of 3/8" sheetrock over the existing ceiling. Find the strapping or ceiling joists, mark them on the wall, them go right over the old damaged ceilings.  This will save you a ton of work and mess, and not waste the insulation.  With the money you save, install extra insulation!

Go to your local insulation distributor and rent a vacuum machine for $50 and suck it all out in 30 minutes into a bag or dumpster and if you choose re blow it or do yourself a favor and ditch the cellulose for better performing fiberglass such as L77 from Owens corning. You can also rent a blower to re blow it back in for about $30. This way it is done right and your insulation is properly installed. A leaf blower will not work and you will no doubt be losing efficiency.


Use one 14-3 cable in place of two parallel 14-2 cable I'm adding a ceiling fan and wired smoke detector to a bedroom that previously had just a switched outlet. The switched outlet currently receives power via 14-3 cable coming from the switch, with the black wire always hot and the red wire controlled by the switch. My intention is to rewire the outlet so that it is not switched and run power from it up to the new fan and smoke detector.

I see two ways to wire this, and I just want to make sure that the more efficient way to do it is up to code.

Run 14-3 wire from the outlet to the fan, connecting the black wire such that it is always hot and the red wire so that it is switched. I would then use the red wire to provide power to the fan, and use the black wire to provide constant power to 14-2 cable running from the fan to the smoke detector. This is the option I'm leaning towards.
Just run 2 separate 14-2 cables from the outlet to the fan and smoke detector.

Also, I assume that many of you will point out that I should switch the fan lights separately from the fan, but I'm not going to do this because the fan I'm adding comes with a remote, and the receiver actually isn't set up to accommodate separate wires for the fan and the light. Finally, some of you may point out that it's not a great idea to have the lights and outlets in the room on the same circuit. I agree, but it would be a massive amount of work power these new devices from another circuit, and the bedroom is already on its own circuit with just 3 outlets so I'm not too concerned.

Yes, that is fine.

It will ease wire count in the switch box if you use the 14/3 option. Fan boxes are usually nice and big.

The National Electrical Code is very clear on this issue.  Smoke detectors shall be on their on circuit.  National Electrical Code, 2017 edition, page 70-621, right hand column, Article 760-41-B, BRANCH CIRCUIT. "The branch circuit  supplying the fire alarm equipment shall supply no other loads."


How to attach deck ledger with furred out sheathing I'm a DIYer planning to put in a deck, and am working on a permit application. I've got what I think is an unusual configuration of siding and sheathing on my house, and I'm wondering what the best method would be for attaching a deck ledger board. The sheathing is spaced away from the wall studs by 1.5 inches (sheathing is attached to 2x4s on their sides). The siding and house wrap will be replaced at the same time as the decks, so I'll be able to cut back the sheathing to access the rim joists and sill.
Two possibilities I've considered are are:

Attach a board to the rim joist that's the same size as my ledger board, sheath over that to make for a flat exterior surface, and then attach the deck ledger to the sheathing, fastening through to the rim joists with long bolts. I'm not sure if this configuration would provide adequate support. It would be possible to attach a board to the sill to provide additional support for the spacer board above if that helps (the sill is a beefy 6x8).

Attach the ledger directly to the rim joist so that the ledger is inset behind the spaced-out sheathing. The challenge with this approach is how to properly flash this configuration.

Thank you!

Cut holes through the cladding with a hole saw then drill through the furring into the sill beam for the the size of bolt you want to use.
Using the same hole-saw to cut "pucks" from pressure treated  lumber, and drill their pilot holes out to the bolt size too.
using the pucks as spacers bolt your ledger through the furring to the sill beam.


Putting up posters in hard to reach places I'd like to place posters in a hard to reach spot in my home.

The posters are pretty sturdy. They're glossy prints on thick cardstock paper.

I'd like to place them up along a tall wall, except that the wall is directly above the staircase.

I can't use the ladder because the staircase is there, and there's no way I could reach high enough on my own.

Are there poles or other equipment that might be helpful for putting up posters in hard to reach places?

Edit- I found these two possible solutions. Ladder Ledge and Staircase platform. I like the idea of placing my ladder directly on the stores, but I'd rather not spend $150 for this solution

If you're only going to ever need it for your own staircase investing in such an expensive adjustable platform may not be warranted.

you can probably build your own from some some 6x2 lumber

cut pieces to make the basic shape of the ladder ledge and fasten the parts together with structural screws, fit rubber feet or a layer of rubber anti-slip floor surface
to the underside,


What can cause an electric water heater to stop working? Last night my electric water heater stopped working and I'd like to figure out whats wrong with it before going off and calling a repair service.

What are some things I can do to troubleshoot this? So far I've:

Did a quick check and it isn't isolated to a single room.
Checked the water heater for leaks, but everything appears normal.
Checked the breaker and it was not tripped. I also flipped it off and back on and that also had no effect.

Update:

I broke out my multi-meter and did some further testing:

I tested the breaker itself. It is working properly.
I tested the heating elements for resistance. Both read ~12/12.5 ohms
No power is going to either element (actually, there is but its < 1v)

A few things to check:

First check the boiler - is it heating water? Does your hot water tank contain hot water? If not, it could be the heating element, a fuse or part of the heater circuit.
If you have a timer controlling the boiler, check it is working- does the relay trigger as it should?
If that is all working but you aren't getting hot water to your rooms, next check your zone valves to see whether they open and close correctly.
Can you hear your water pump?
Have you tried bleeding your radiators?
Do you have thermostats in the house? Check they are working- usually a click as they trigger at the set temperature.

There may be several reasons due to which a water heater can stop working and the first most reason may be it is serving from several years or may it's parts have stopped working. Second reason may be the improper supply of electricity.


self-supporting walls I need to build some dividing walls, but per landlord requirements, these cannot reach the ceiling (must be 12" below the 100" high ceiling) to prevent re-working the existing sprinklers.

The floor is concrete & I can secure to side walls and floor.
The newly created space will need to have a door, so the walls need to support the door and minimal decor (pictures).

It seems to me that securing to the side walls and concrete floor should be sufficient, but I'd appreciate feedback or to bring-up concerns that I haven't considered.

Thanks!
Casara

I would simply ask if you can have two beams on each wall that hit the ceiling.  These could span to the 1/3 mark on the walls and would keep it from flexing.  Simple 4x4 would probably look the best and should still pass fire code.

First, an answer because I realize some people just cannot get this stuff.  If it were me, I would build the wall like normal with a continuous double 2x4 top plate and just shoot about 6 +/- nails with our gun through the top section of the studs into the drywall.

Second, a thought.  What would the weight be from on that wall.  Maybe a person pushing off the wall to push a piece of furniture or something?  Rough housing and playing?  Door slamming?  Point is it might be upwards of 100 lb or something, maybe a bit more, but probably not 1000's.  And that weight is not at the top of wall so the weight is split to the top plate above (acting like a beam), then into the intersecting walls, and also into the floor, and that weight is for a short duration so deflection (bending of the wall) is the issue.

Now, what size the top plate is needed depends on the length of the wall.  You need a continuous top plate (no breaks) to be able to hold 75-100lb min. and you need the ends to be affixed to the intersection wall in such a way that each end can support about 75-100lb +/- of force.  What size top plate depends on length.  at 8'-10' a double 2x4 can actually easily hold that weight if we run it as a beam.  A single 2x4 actually can carry such a load.  Given it is a wall and not a beam (different duration), you are probably safe to span a double 2x4 upwards of 16' plus if you can get it a continuous span.  Less with splices, more if you are OK with it bending when you push on it.  A few options if you are longer or want less bending are build a 2x6 wall with a double 2x6 top plate or make it a triple 2x4 top plate.

Now for the ends.  Just screwing into drywall (not hitting a stud or blocking) if the wall is tight to the intersecting wall should be fine.  I know it sounds crazy but drywall screws into drywall in shear do have reliable strength.  See Testing Here  You can easily say each drywall screw can handle 20lb working load in shear so 4-5 screws or 6+ nails driven through the top section of the end stud into the drywall, with a couple nails driven down through the top plate in to the end studs will be plenty to hold the wall soundly.  Add more screws for end strength.

Again, if it were me, I would build the wall with a continuous double 2x4 top plate like normal and just shoot 6 +/- nails with our gun through the top section of the studs into the drywall and a few more nails in pairs down the length of the end studs.


Garage door - sunlight & garage door sensor Can direct sunlight interrupt the sensor, preventing the door from going all the way down?  At night, early mornings or on overcast days my garage door goes up and down with no problem.  However, when the sun is out the door will go down partially then back up.  What can cause this?

My Genie suffered the same issue, sunlight "blinding" the system.

After reading all the "fixes", it occurred to me that the one simple remedy would be to simply reverse the devices, putting the receiver pointing away from the sunlight instead of into it.

The opener doesn't care which way it's laid out; it's totally arbitrary, at the whim of the installer.

The wiring on the Genie is very simple, with two leads to each device. This can be done in either of two ways: "home runs", (a pair of leads to each device), or a "loop", (one lead going to one device, then looping over to the other one). Both circuits are electronically the same. The red wire connects to the white with black stripe and the white wire connects to the white-only wire.

It took ten minutes to do, and I didn't have to build any boxes or use any toilet paper tubes. Hope this helps.

Your garage door opener is most likely radio-based.  But the transmitters are very low power.  It is quite possible for atmospherics to affect radio waves.

Sometimes you can build a metal box around the receiver which will make it receive signals from predictable directions.


Is there some type of coating I can use to prevent condensate on my HVAC ducts? I'm getting a lot of condensate on my HVAC ducts that run though my first floor (and HVAC blower) especially in July / August when humidity levels are outrageous (in NJ).  The 1st floor space space is rather frigid as one face of it is below grade so it's hard to convince the occupants to open the registers to dry it out (at least not without opening the windows and letting the humid air back in). However even on days when humidity is lower, I can occasionally notice a small amount of condensate build up which has clearly led to mold growth under the previous owners care. Further compounding things is the natural tendency for the cold air to make its way back down to the ground floor via the small gaps near return / air filter area and in the registers themselves.

I know most people say to just insulate it, but the previous owner did this in a few places (with neoprene peel-n-stick in some places, and standard batt in others) and it looks terrible, and it appears with standard batt insulation just provides another surface for mold to grow on.

Is there any sort of water repelling coating that that I could use to prevent the condensate from building up in the first place the way RainX works on car windows?

Is there some other trick I should be using to reduce humidity or condensate build up on the duct work?

I call it “The Coke bottle” effect. When you take a coke bottle out of refrigerator, it sweats on the WARM side.

The same thing happens when you start pumping cold air through your metal ducts in a warm atmosphere. (And vice versa for warm air.)

Paint doesn’t isolate the metal duct surface so you’ll have condensation.

I’d look to “duct insulation” which is made specifically for ducts. Some are self-sealing and have a peel and stick adhesive so it would be easy to apply.

My contractor started installing a soffit before I was ready, so I ended up using expanding foam as a way to insulate isolate my ducts and shaved it to size before it was fully enclosed. It worked, but I'd advise against using regular spray foam (like I did) as it will expand and cause your ducting to shift out of place.
If you go this route, choose the window foam variety which is designed to be "minimal-expanding" as to avoid warping and shifting your ducts (both polyurethane and the latex varieties should work).

Alternatively, you might try a 'no sweat' kind of product I found while previously researching this, but why this answer is currently ranked at -1 as I couldn't find any studies or reviews of how well they work:


How can I drill a hole in tempered glass without shattering it? How can I drill a hole in tempered glass without shattering it? Is it even possible? The hole only needs to be around 1/4" in diameter, nothing crazy huge.

You can't.  The tempered glass will completely shatter if this is even attempted.  If you absolutely must have tempered glass with a hole in it, the hole or any other shaping must be done before the tempering process.

You can. Yes, the tempered glass will completely shatter if this is even attempted. But if you can use a steel needle or stylus absolutely thin and spikes, you can.
Then placing a hard wood behind the glass you must use the stylus very gently tapping with a hammer.
After a long time,  you can drill a hole.
Necdet Ekin


How can I calculate the power consumption of an A/C unit? I have an AC unit with the following specs:

Cooling Capacity: 1260 kcal/h, 1.47kW, 5000 Btu/h
Fan Motor Power: 0.034 kW
Current: 0.155 A

My question is how much power does this unit actually consume in an hour? Does it use 1.47kW constantly?

Btw it's a York unit. Is that a good brand?

It will only draw that level of power when the compressor is running.  In normal circumstances it will cycle on and off to chill the cooling element as needed; the rest of the time only the fan will be running to blow air over them.

The amount of power consumed will vary depending primarily on how hot it is and what temperature you have the AC set to.

To find out how much power it's actually using, you'll need to use a power meter of some sort.  I'm partial to the Kill-a-Watt if they're available where you live.

Add together the kW from Cooling Capacity and the Fan Motor.

1.47 + .034 = 1.504 kw or 1504 w.

It appears that this is for a 220 v circuit ( 34w / .155A = 220v based on the fan rating).

So your total draw would be 1504/220 = 6.84 A.


Tools and feasibility of tearing down a wooden shed held together by nails Is it possible to DIY tear down a wooden shed held together by nails?

I have a hammer and crowbar.

What other tools do I need?

It looks like this shed except I already tore down the door and I've emptied out all the coal and rocks inside. This is just an example shed I found online.

Absolutely doable, though it may take a while.

If your goal is to end up with wood that is usable for another project, then hammer and crowbar are the right tools. If your goal is simply to remove the shed and toss everything in a Dumpster, then a cutting tool such as a Sawzall:

will make the project much easier.

If you plan to reuse the wood, then removing nails is important and pliers or vise grips would help a lot. If you plan to burn the wood then:

Removing nails is important
If the wood is old & painted then lead paint is a big concern. Actually, any paint could be a problem but lead paint would be a major hazard.
If the wood is pressure treated then burning is not advisable.

I'm not sure if your comment about the dynamite is serious or not, but I would not recommend that option.

You can do it with the crowbar and hammer. You may want an assortment of crowbars and hammers, especially longer-handled crowbars and some with different angles.

Another option (if you'll consider power tools) would be either a cutoff saw or chainsaw with demolition blade/chain. These types of blades/chains are designed to cut through wood with embedded nails. For such a small shed, even a reciprocating with a blade for wood with embedded nails should suffice.

Cutoff Saw

U.S. Navy photo by Mass Communication Specialist 3rd Class David A. Cox [Public domain]

Chain Saw

Ebear422 at English Wikipedia [Public domain]

Reciprocating Saw

Junglecat [Public domain]


Why isn't my GFCI receptacle working? I am installing a GFCI outlet and I am having some issues.  I have identified the hot and neutral wires.  They test positive with the voltmeter when I turn on the switch.  I connect the receptacle to the wires, turn on the switch and power is not getting to the outlets.  I test the screws which hold the wires in place on the receptacle and it gets power, but the outlets aren't getting any juice.  I tried pressing the reset button and test button a bunch, nothing.  The LED on the receptacle doesn't light up either.

If I read your original question correct you said that "the outlets are not getting any juice" but you confuse me with your later statement about the LOAD side still having the tape on, this would suggest that there is no connection to other receptacles on the load side. Can you clarify that please?

If I may suggest that you make sure your wires are stripped the proper length and fixed to the line side of the GFCI receptacle using the side screws and not the push-in holes, I have experienced poor results with the latter method making a good contact just plugging them in. also it is a good idea to make sure the breaker for the circuit is off when making the connections.

If the problem persists you may want to get an professional on the scene, at $25 a pop for the outlets you could save yourself a head ache and get it done in one go.

New GFCIs are a pain. Pushing the reset button does NOT reset them, unless there is a specific load plugged in. For example, the won't reset if an electronic device such as a battery charger is plugged in. You need to plug in a incandescent light bulb, for example, to be able to have the reset button work. So the recommended monthly process of pushing the TEST then RESET buttons won't work anymore.


How to remove the handle on my Delta faucet? One of my faucets is leaking in my bathroom sink.  I have a double-handle faucet set from Delta.  I removed the set screw from the cover but, for some reason, the cover still isn't coming off.  I tried using a putty knife and screwdriver to pry the cover off but it's stuck.  I also used WD40 to try to loosen it but that didn't help either.  How much force is required to remove the cover if I keep pulling up on it?  Is there some other screw that's holding it that I don't know about?  Am I missing one of the steps necessary in removing the cover?

UPDATE: I squirted WD40, CLR, and vinegar into both the handle hole and set screw hole but it didn't help.  I expected the liquid to flow down between the cover and the stem/cartridge but it seems like the liquid has no place to go so it comes out the same hole it went in.

I tried using a hair dryer to heat the cover so that it will expand but that also didn't work.

I've also tried hitting up on the cover with a rubber mallet to knock it up off the stem/cartridge.  No luck there.

Lastly, I tried to wrap a rag around the handle and used pliers to try to pull up on it but that also didn't help.  In fact, even with the rag and the teeth of the pliers covered with electrical tape, it still scratched up the cover.

Is there something else I can/should try?  Is there a way to squirt things up from the bottom of the cover to dissolve the dirt/minerals that's holding the handle tight to the stem?

It should just pull off.  If it doesn't, you might try gently wiggling it side to side as you pull up.  If you have a rubber or plastic mallet, you could try giving it a gentle tap to free it up. The trick is to be gentle enough to not break anything, but firm enough to knock it loose.

Find the right sized Allen Key and Un-Screw Left.


How to properly ground a subpanel in detached building? I Will be installing a subpanel in a detached garage. The subpanel will be 60 amp. The garage is about 30' from the main-panel in-house, and I will of course get an exact length before selecting the proper gauge wiring. I'll be using pvc underground for the wiring. There is already existing wiring going underground from the house to the garage, which will no longer be used. When it comes to grounding this subpanel, should I run a grounding conductor from the main panel to the new sub, or ground the sub to earth?

Reading this answer sounds like I would have to ground the subpanel to the main, primarily because in my situation this is a new install. All other variables I have control over.

If so, I would be running 4 wires from the main panel to the sub, 2 hots, 1 neutral, and 1 ground correct?
Then, at the subpanel, the ground bus bar and the neutral bus bar would not be connected, and the grounding screw removed from the ground bus bar?
Lastly, a GFCI Breaker must be used at the main, right? I believe this is true for any subpanel in a detached building, just want to be sure.

Pull 4 conductors (2 ungrounded (hot), 1 grounded (neutral), 1 grounding) (250.32(B)(1)).
Grounded (neutral) and grounding bus must be separate at sub-panel (250.32(B)(1)).
No need for a GFCI breaker in the main panel, unless your local code requires it.
A grounding electrode system is required at the second structure (250.32(A)).

You run a hundred feet or two hundred feet. Most main 200 amp service is the neutral and grounds are all together. gfci work as long on a 110 you run three wires in seperate bar screws. And it does not matter if your grounds and neturals are tied together. All houses are grounded to code. Running two one ten breakers makes double pole makes it 220 because you got two hots. Ac current is not dc current. I look at it this way you need a hot and a neutral to make 120 with out a voltage drop you have 120. Two hots you got 240 with out a voltage drop. Most guys say 110 well you got a voltage drop. Two equal size wires you need to carry the load right. A neutral and hot on 110 you bring in always 220 in a garage or shed what happens if you need it. Four even size wires. That keeps your voltage balanced the receptacle box on a shed or a garage dont need a grond wire unless you go over head. Lighting that is what a ground rod is for. Lighting does not hit non conductive things like pvc or glass. Its going to take the short path thats why your tranformer on the pole is grounded. And the house just in case. But thirty years my house works and all breakers will trip. I had the hot from pole shorting in the the ground one night by pole one side of the house the power would come on and off went down checked my main voltage wires coming in under ground one hot keep cuttin on and off. I was hopein it was the transformer. It turned out to be the ass put one three direct burial right in the ground so someone could of died. Hot hits ground direct short. What does a ground rod do nothing. My garage 15 years 4 wires to main breaker just like wireing outlets in your house dont use ground rods massive lighting strikes near garage. The box is on the inside wood is a insulator i have a better chance of the garage getting hit and burning down. Codes half of them are nothing. They still make a ungrounded extension cord that i have temporary hooked to my garage to light it and use power tools and the lights are hooked up and not using the ground wire and the breakers do trip in garage when they need to. Im all ready to go back to house with thn 6 four wire under ground 150 feet 220split two ways run what ever i want.the only way i will.ever die is go into a swiming pool and drop the hot and neutral in it seen ground falt outlets made for that reason fail and people get killed like that. Im a ham operator i seen lighting strike the ground ad come back up this is no lie will all the strike go in the ground how much comes back to kill your appliances. Amy antenna is 48foot long 58 feet off ground 175 feet of coax to antenna twenty years i keep everything hooked up lots of money to lose. Lightning never took the long path.


Can a NEMA 6-15 Device be connected to a NEMA 6-20 receptacle? I have a new -80 deep freezer that calls for NEMA 6-15R receptacle, but the old one it is replacing called for a NEMA 6-20.  I note that the plug actually seems to fit in the 6-20, but is there a reason that this would cause a problem?  The machine should only draw the lower amperage, so the fact that the outlet is overrated wouldn't be a problem?

Maybe I'm missing something.

tl;dr
15 Ampere cord-and-plug appliances can indeed, safely be connected to 20 Ampere receptacles.
A deeper understanding
NEMA 6 is a design standard for three wire grounded cord-and-plug devices and receptacles.  The number after the dash (-), is the current rating of the device. For example. A NEMA 6-20 device, would be a three wire grounded cord-and-plug device capable of withstanding 20 amperes of current. The "R" simply tells you that the device in question is a receptacle.  A NEMA 6-20 cord-and-plug device, would plug into a NEMA 6-20R device.
The NEMA design standard is a safe and convenient way to determine what can connect to what.  Basically, if it fits, it works.
If a 15 Ampere device is connected to a 20 Ampere rated receptacle, the device will still only draw a maximum of 15 Amperes.  Plugging the device into a higher rated receptacle, will not cause it to draw more current.

From my understanding, then it would be wise to use a 15A breaker on this circuit.  I'm assuming this is a dedicated circuit too.


Does a humidifier cool the air? I'm considering getting an evaporative humidifier for my super-dry Northeast house, but I'm wondering if the evaporation cools off the room and is going to add to my heating bill.

It seems like evaporative humidifier work exactly the same was as evaporative air conditioners — i.e. blowing dry air across water to cause evaporation, thus transferring the heat of the air into water vapor's latent heat.

Am I wrong about the thermodynamics? Or is the effect small enough that it doesn't make much difference?

You are quite correct about the thermodynamics. The heat involved in a phase change of water is so significant that professional HVAC guys specify the performance requirements for cooling as two different parameters: sensible and latent heat to be removed. The latter is the heat involved in phase change of water and is often more demanding than removing sensible heat.

"For example, in 1 kg of waste air at 20 °C with a relative humidity (RH) of 60%, the total energy is 42.5 kJ, more than half of which (22.5 kJ) is latent heat."

You can analyze your situation with a psychrometric chart like this:
http://www.truetex.com/psychrometric_chart.gif

Just pick your desired temperature and relative humidity and you can find out how much water exists as vapor under those conditions.

Little do u know in using a humidifier to cool a room, its fine of its a single flat or home.  If you live in a two flat dwelling which isn't insulated, and the above flat has the humidifier. It creates a few problems
   First of all fumes get pulled from the stack of the water heater into the lower dwelling, causing the potential for carbon monoxide poisoning. Secondly if the control is set higher on the humidifier, the lower flat sees an increase in temperature of at least 5-9 degrees.  This is from experience im speaking, i had to get out of the lower flat to get air, as the gas company rep
said somethimg was pulling the exhaust away from the stack vent and pulling it into the basement. Ms. Pierce


Why little holes/dots when I apply joint compound? I can't find answer anywhere, can somebody tell me why and how to avoid these little dots/holes when I spackle.

I also including the pic of the compound I'm using.

There have got to be many ways to minimize the bubbles.  These kind of problems you deal with when finishing drywall require a certain amount of skill that, for me, comes only with experience.  That said, I have a few ideas:

Add a little bit of water.  The further along in the finishing process, the thinner the compound should be.
Mix well, even if you add no water.
"Work" your mud with a knife in your pan (or on your hawk) for a few seconds.
It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like your application could use fine tuning.  a. Apply the mud to the wall as you have done.  b. Remove mud from the knife and, putting pressure on the left side of the knife, go back over application. c. Do the same for the right side. d. With light pressure in the center, go over again.  This will help to better feather out our edges.

You could just spackle over them with spackle.


Why am I getting noise with my network cable connectors? The modular plugs or what I like to call "end-caps" for Cat6 cable, I have the kind where you can push the cable all the way through then cut so you know you have proper cable alignment.  I thought this would be the best way to go so I don't have to dreadfully stare at the modular plug to determine if the wiring is in the right order.

Well, what I have noticed is that it is impossible for me to cut the wiring back far enough which creates excessive amount of "noise" and crosstalk and is just a bigger issue than what I imagined.  Am I doing something incorrectly or is this just a hazard of using this type modular connector?

EDIT
Below are images of my crimp work - looks good to me, but the cable is still not functioning!

Pin 6 is not crimped. Your crimp die is defective or you need to try again.

All the pins should be at the same level.

But really, punch-down into jacks and buy patch cables as already suggested. Cheaper and more reliable.

Your key problem is that pin 6 is not crimped. Today's switches use auto-negotiation to determine speed (10/100/1000) and half or full duplex.  Without pin six the switch can't negotiate and the link will not come up. Look up on the ol' interweb and search for quality features to look for in a crimper and invest in a good crimper.


two 15 amp outlets to pigtail 30 amp? I just bought a killer electric chainsaw.  Very powerful, fast and draws a FULL 15 amps.  I keep tripping the 15 amp breaker at the box in the basement.  It's a LONG run of extension cord (50' 10 guage) but its also some 80 feet to the panel so the wire is probably, what 14 gauge to the panel in my walls?  Maybe that's whats tripping the breaker.  I'm cutting BIG ROUNDS so the saw is working hard for like 2-3 full minutes and that's when the circuit breaker says, "too much".  I have to take frequent breaks every 30 seconds to let the breaker cool before I can resume work.

The outlet at the side of the house has 2 15 amp circuits, one to each plug, like a kitchen in newer home construction.  The outlet is GFI protected.  Can I pigtail 2 male plugs and wire a single female to the males? That would give me 30 amps?  I won't overload the extension cord.  It's really heavy duty and I won't overload the wiring in the house, 2 15 amp circuits.

My home is finished and basement done, I can't run a new wire to the back yard. Please help.

No, you absolutely cannot do that.

For starters, they will be on different legs of your hydro connection. You will create a short circuit.  There is 240v between the hot wires of those plugs. Even if they were on the same leg, it's still not allowed or advisable, because there is no way to make sure they share the load evenly.  Either way, you'll end up damaging your circuit breakers by continually tripping them, or start a fire.

What you need is to run a new 15 or 20 amp circuit with appropriate gauge wire (which might be thicker depending on length of the run) outside.  Since you know you'll be using long extension cords with it, I'd add the length of my longest extension cord when calculating the length of the run, and see if that makes you need to upsize the wire further.

Use an extension cord through a window to a 20-A circuit somewhere in the house.

Or get a gasoline generator that can deliver sufficient current to power the chainsaw.

EDIT
I believe the Y connection of two circuits on the same leg to the same load would trip a GFCI. I made a neutral to neutral test connection in my garage and it tripped the GFCI.

I have a 20-A circuit with GFCI duplex receptacle in one wall of my garage. Nearby is another duplex receptacle on the same leg but a different circuit (15-A no GFCI). I plugged an extension cord into the GFCI receptacle and inserted a paper clip halfway into the NEUTRAL side of the female end of the cord. I brought the end of the extension cord up to the other wall receptacle and pushed the end of the paper clip into the NEUTRAL of the other receptacle.

The GFCI immediately tripped. No sparks, no drama, just tripped.  I could test the hots the same way, but don't feel like doing it. Testing of the two hots with a VOM shows they are on the same leg (~0.1 V reading), but I'm not going to chance that I have not thought it through.


2 GFCIs out of one box to different circuits I just rewired my garage using what was there and have non-functional brand new GFCI outlets. They both come out of one box and feed separate circuits in my garage (one to a wall and other to my openers). They worked before supplying one circuit to my openers. Is having 2 GFCIs in parallel causing this? There is also a mysterious ground coming into the box feeding them that I tied together with the incoming ground.

"mysterious grounding" may be the problem. A GFCI is very sensitive to grounding problems - by design. A few questions:

1 - Do the GFCIs trip and not reset? Or do they NOT trip but simply "don't work"? There is a big difference. If they trip and won't reset then there is a real grounding problem. If they don't trip then they may be bad, though unusual to have two brand new bad outlets.

2 - I'm a little confused about the circuits. "feed separate circuits" implies 2. "They worked before supplying one circuit" implies 1. Do you have 2 separate circuits - i.e., two separate circuit breakers in the panel? Or do you have 1 circuit that originally supplied the openers and now also supplies an outlet? If you only have one circuit then you should only have one GFCI installed.

In addition to any other "mysterious ground", it is possible you have a problem with the openers - i.e., a fault that is minor enough to not trip the regular circuit breaker but is enough to trip the GFCI.

I don't know whether an opener circuit by itself (i.e., no outlets on the same circuit) needs GFCI protection according to code or not. Harper or ThreePhaseEel or one of the other code experts can answer that.


What can I do about outlets with no ground and reversed polarity? My relative's house is very old (built in 1920s or 1930s) and has several 2-prong outlets with no ground.  The screw in the center is not grounded either.

I would like to be able to use modern equipment (requiring 3-prong outlets) safely.  What should I do?

Edit: Would an isolation transformer help?

Well the most obvious and always recommended answer is to upgrade the old electrical wiring. Very old wires can have insulation falling off or crumbling if you try to start working with it. For a very old installation that may also involve replacing the electrical distribution box (panel) as well.

Now with that said there is not anything inherently unsafe with a two wire system as long as common sense is used. That common sense has to include:

Not using electrical appliances when the user could be providing an alternate path to GND for the AC electrical power. I.E. do not stand in a full bathtub and drop a plugged in hair dryer into the tub).
Use double insulated electrical tools if at all possible.
Do not use electrical appliances that have frayed power cords.
Replacing the two wire outlets with a GFCI that can trip if the  hot wire current is not equal to the neutral wire current. GFCIs used in this configuration need to be labeled as not providing a safety GND connection.
Consider testing the existing wiring (or get an electrician to do it) to see if the old neutral wiring creates a voltage drop of more than a couple of volts when circuits are loaded. If higher voltages are seen then use of bare metal appliances such as a desktop computer chassis may expose you to the voltage drop of the existing wiring. If this is the case the only real solution for safety is to get rewiring done.

For the outlet with the reversed polarity the first thing that should be done is to replace it with one wired to the correct polarity. Another thing to look at is to replace outlets with the newer style where the slot for the neutral prong is larger than the hot wire prong.

Generally, a 3-prong outlets work on 2-wire installation just as well. The 2-wire installation is bound to have one of the wires grounded (the neutral), so the grounding prong is just connected to the neutral, together with one of power prongs. The key is choosing the correct one!. The only thing you lose on 2-wire instalation is the option to install a central GFCI.

Now, the legality of replacing 2-prong sockets with a 3-prong ones depends on local code, and that's why you should call a licensed electrician. If the operation is possible, it won't be expensive as it's merely replacing a few sockets. A licensed electrician will know if such retrofit is possible without any extra conditions, on condition that the new sockets have integrated GFCI or not possible at all in your installation.

//edit: Please do not change the meaning of my post. The first part is not an advice, it's merely a summary on how installations were done in pre-GFCI times. The only advice here is to hire a licensed electrician.


Trying to find this brand We have an original kitchen faucet in our 1940s home. The connection is very difficult to find, but this symbol is on the gooseneck (seems like the gooseneck is not original) so I want to see if this company makes them still.


Are these wires dangerous? I pulled on a cord for the light switch hanging from the ceiling in my bathroom and some plastic and metal casing fell off. This is the result. I know nothing about electronics - these look like exposed wires? Are these immediately dangerous? Should I be taking precautions?

This is in the UK.

Those are indeed hazardous "exposed wires", and you should take immediate precautions to make it impossible for anyone to inadvertently touch them. Ideally, you'd turn off power to that circuit and either keep it turned off, or while the power is off cover the exposed wires securely with an insulating device (a securely fastened wire nut, electrical tape, etc) until you can have someone replace the light fixture.

Yes.  Evacuate the house immediately and do not return.  Call your insurance company and have them total the entire building and by you a new home.  Tell your neighbors they should vacate the area as well.

It's not that serious.  But yes.  You should avoid all temptations to lick or touch the metal conductors of those wires directly with your skin.  Whoever installed that light fixture was an idiot.  And now you get to fix their mess:

Buy a multimeter or a non-contact voltage detector wand.  Turn off the breaker to that fixture and use the NCVD or multimeter to make sure the circuit is de-energised.  Then go to your nearest non-trademarked home center and buy some proper mounting screws for that thing.  My best guess is some toggle bolts would do the trick.  Use an appropriately sized drill bit to make a hole for the toggle bolts.  If there's a stud very close by the wire then you might be able to use a wood screw with that, and only one toggle bolt.

Once that white bracket it affixed sturdily to the ceiling, put the light fixture back, or put a new one up if the old one busted to bits when it fell.  This should be a single-day project, and a great intro to electrics for a novice.  Enjoy!


How can I stop loud rushing water sounds when we flush? Whenever we flush or turn on the two outdoor faucets, the sound of rushing water in the pipes is unbearable. If we open any other faucet in the house the sound of rushing water is normal, but flush any of our three toilets or outdoor faucets and the sound will wake you from your sleep. What could this be. I doubt the problem lies with the toilet because it occurs in all three. It is to the point that we hesitate to flush at night in fear of waking up the entire house. I believe I have one of those restrictor valves in the hallway closet. Could that need adjustment?

Find the water lines and put some insulation around them. That's about the only thing you can do without running a different kind of line.


Can you really use 2 cables in place of /4 Romex? I have always presumed that currents must be equal in the same cable or conduit, and one shouldn't use multiple cables for 4-5 conductors because of eddy current heating, induced vibration causing metal fatigue, etc.
However, then I closely examined the following Code:

300.3(B) Conductors of the Same Circuit. All conductors of the same circuit and, where used, the grounded conductor and all equipment grounding conductors and bonding conductors shall be contained within the same raceway, auxiliary gutter, cable tray, cablebus assembly, trench, cable, or cord, unless otherwise permitted in accordance with 300.3(B)(1) through (B)(4).
300.3(B)(3) Nonferrous Wiring Methods. Conductors in wiring methods with a nonmetallic or other nonmagnetic sheath, where run in different raceways, auxiliary gutters, cable trays, trenches, cables, or cords, shall comply with the provisions of 300.20(B).
300.20(B) Individual Conductors. Where a single conductor carrying alternating current passes through metal with magnetic properties, the inductive effect shall be minimized by (1) cutting slots in the metal between the individual holes through which the individual conductors pass or (2) passing all the conductors in the circuit through an insulating wall sufficiently large for all of the conductors of the circuit.

Provided that you either a) use a plastic box, b) enter both cables on the same cable clamp, or c) slot the box as discussed...
Is that authorizing the use of two /2 cables in lieu of a /4, e.g. in a 3-way switch loop where neutral is needed?

Edit: I've italicized the relevant snippets, and here they are alone:

300.3(B) Conductors of the Same Circuit. All conductors of the same circuit shall be contained within the same  cable, unless otherwise permitted in accordance with 300.3(B)(1) through (B)(4).
300.3(B)(3) Nonferrous Wiring Methods. Conductors in wiring methods with a nonmetallic sheath, where run in different cables, shall comply with the provisions of 300.20(B).

No.

The language in 300.20(B) refers specifically to a single conductor, not a single cable.

300.3(B) mentions "in a single cable" unless otherwise allowed, and I don't read 300.3(B)(3) or 300.20(B) as allowing otherwise.

I would guess the exceptions are intended for where you need to run a pair of conduits to physically accommodate large feeder wires; Which are "individual conductors."

I do not think so and the reason is maybe a little simplistic but 2 Romex in parallel would have 2 whites , I have run 12-2-2 and the inspector let it slide because it was in 1 cable and well identified with red paint pen and said 12-4 or smurf tube in the future.
Remember the white in a switch leg we run the hot on the white and reidentify as required by code 200.7.c.1 separate cable with 2 whites would put you in the jeopardy as separate.  Inside a raceway or conduit it can be done but that would be silly who would do that. Most of us use smurf tube for 3 & 4 ways now. Because 12-4 cost $$


Wood frame door and window repair. Steps by step answers please. In Ecuador These are the wood parts that have been very badly damaged by sun and water. How can i restore them to the natural color they had. Id like step by step information please. Also i am in Ecuador so some material might not available here. Thanks

http://imgur.com/a/blNMb

One Time Wood Protector is the only worthwhile option. Expensive but goes a long way & it has an unlimited shelf life for future re-applications. You just sand the crap out of everything until there are no long wood fibers sticking out (known as feathering & is mild or surface wood rot). Then, you just paint on One Time & you're good for up to 7-years. I used the Natural finish & it does darken the wood like water, but gets 10% lighter after each year of exposure. I did a redwood 2-car garage door with it 3-years ago & no more rot & no more water wicking nor soaking, I still get gushing compliments.


Can a ceiling fan's speed be controlled with a light dimmer switch I purchased a ceiling fan a while back which is one of those fancy ones that is operated with a remote control. However, for some reason, the remote broke, and the fan is stuck on maximum speed, I can turn it on/off by the wall switch and that's it.

Is it possible to manually control the fan speed by installing a light dimmer switch?

Light dimmers use triac based phase control for dimming purpose. It chops the sine wave somewhere in between depending upon the knob position, which produces a signal like this:

(a) is pure sine wave. (b) and (c) represent modified sine wave going to the appliance depending upon dimmer knob position. This works well for dimming an incandescent bulb because they give off light based on heating of the filament.

However when you give this waveform to a ceiling fan, it won't behave very well. Most obvious issue will be a humming sound specially at a lower speed (corresponding to signal (b)). Lesser obvious issues might be increased energy loss in the coil.

Nowadays companies have started using a series capacitor to reduce the voltage while maintaining a sine wave which eliminates humming while reducing the fan speed.

yes, but it works better if you use a fan speed controller, lamp dimmers have the wrong switching profile and cause excess heating a low speeds


What are these marks on the Romex wire in the wall? I was replacing some damaged siding and decided to replace the old dirty insulation at the same time.  After pulling out the insulation I noticed that the Romex running to two outlets had some brown sticky stuff on it.  Any ideas what it is and why it's there?  I'm including a picture of one of the the wires.

Went back and found a piece of the old insulation and took a picture.  It looks like tar paper on the inside.  That's probably it.  Thank you.

That is tar from the old insulation, that's why it is sticky. I don't know why or how it happens, but old insulation had tar in the paper, and it is very common.

It is not scorching or melting from overheating.

Take a utility knife and try to gently scrape some of the black away. You should see it's just on the surface. It's nothing to worry about.

Looks like heat. You say it is sticky so maybe it is residue from the insulation. The cable can get hot if you are running a heavy load on it. If the receptacle is a long way from the circuit breaker the breaker might not trip with an overload.
You can check for heating by plugging in the normal load and then check to see if the cable is hot. Loose connections at your receptacle can cause heat damage to the cables.


I'm thinking of upgrading to a 200 amp service I have a 60 amp main breaker with the following breakers in the panel.

One 50 amp for range
One 30 amp for water heater
One 30 amp breaker for clothes dryer
Eight 20 amp breakers for appliances
Five 15 amp for lights.

What size panel do I need?  And does the eletric company have to change the street line, or just the meter?

If you are in the USA, the National Electrical Code is used in most areas as the standard for electrical installations. The NEC requires a minimum of 100 amps for a dwelling service.

From there, it only goes higher with the default for most medium to large homes being 200 amps. Without doing a full load calculation most homeowners choose the 200 amp panel that will be almost the same price as a 125 to 175 amp panel.

In most areas, the utility is responsible for the wire to the service drop, or meter socket if it is underground, but the homeowner is responsible for the meter socket on into the house. So, if they decide to upgrade their wiring it is up to the utility. In my area, the utility provides meter sockets for free but the homeowner or contractor must install it.

Good luck!

If you have had no problems with your electricity, why change the panel?  Changing it costs money, probably a few thousand if an electrician does the work.  I run my house with 70 amp service.  Realize, of course, that the 70 amp is 220 volts, so it is like 140 amp service at 110.  That is enough to run all the lights, computers, dishwasher, washing machine, and AC.  I have thought often of upgrading but have never done it because it works perfectly as is.


Connecting 2 switches to single power source I know this question gets asked a lot, but I can't seem to make sense of this:

Wires on the left: 2 sets of black/white/ground, one set coming from the light, and one set coming from the panel (I presume). The voltage meter does not register any current on any of these wires, so I assume these are load/neutral/ground wires.
Wires on the right: 1 set of black/red/white/ground coming from the light - what's confusing me is that both the red and black wires are live. The wires coming from the panel black/white/ground are have no current.
I am trying to hook up 2 new Lutron smart switches. Here is what I tried:
I am trying to install 2 Lutron smart switches, which require a neutral (I figure I just need to attach all the neutrals together).
Where I am mostly confused is line/load. It seems I have 2 line wires coming from the same light - and I imagine I will need to piggyback the left switch to the right, but which line should I piggyback on?

original pic
** Edit
This is not how I found it, I unfortunately did not take a picture prior to disconnecting - something I'll have to remember to do for future reference.
Those 2 black wires coming from the top were twister together, and if my memory serves me right, there was an additional pigtail wire connected.
All of the white wires were tied together.
The reason for investigating, is that when I connected my new Lutron switches, everything worked great for about 2 hours, but eventually the switch on the left stopped responding. I just assumed it was improper wiring (although now I wonder if it's not the switch itself because wouldn't improper wiring prevent it from working at all?)
I just tried re-adding the black wire pigtail to the top 2 black wires to create a line to connect to the switch (again I believe this is how it was previously), but what's strange is that now the white wire coming from the top left has become "hot".
This is in a kitchen, the switches control pot lights above the sink and below the cabinets.
The wire nuts in the back are ground wire extensions - the ground wire was too short to connect, so I added a length of copper wire to connect the extension together.

Partial answer so we can knock out the easy part.
Grounds are super simple.
You do not need to run ground wires to switches if the mounting screws go through metal. Those ground via the mounting screws to the metal box.  Any ground pigtails on the switches can be capped off, as long as the switch has a metal yoke. (where the screws go).
That doesn't work for receps, unless they're "self-grounding". It looks like that GFCI is self-grounding.
Therefore, all that's left to do is make sure every wire coming into the box is connected to the metal box. I see a generous 6 ground screws, so 1 per screw and you're done with grounds.


How do I wire 3 way switches? For cosmetic reasons, I've been replacing the switches and outlets in my house (from beige to white).  It's been going well until I ran into two 3-way switches in a hallway that turn off and on one hallway light.  I first replaced one switch with a single pole switch, turned back on the breaker to test and the hallway light stayed on and wouldnt turn off.  Then realized it was a 3-way, went to the store and picked up 2 3-way switches and proceeded to switch out the wrong single pole switch (both switches have a red, white, black & bare copper wire)- however I'm certain I don't remember what was the common or travelers.  Consider this switch #1. To further my stupidity, I thought I'd switch the other 3-way out (switch #2) (so they'd match) and when I turned the breaker back on I heard a buzzing noise and the breaker clicked off (3/4 position to the on switch).  I removed both switches, was very careful that no wires were touching each other and turned the breaker back on- still buzzed and switched off.  I've since tries a couple of combinations with no success.  Any suggestions on what combination to use?

This site has useful diagrams for wiring 3ways http://www.homeimprovementweb.com/information/how-to/three-way-switch.htm


Cabling for outdoor wireless access point I'm investigating different options for mounting a wireless access point outdoors to cover my back yard better.

One of the options I'm considering is running a cable through the wall and along the outside of the house to the location the AP should be. It's not practical to go straight through the wall to the AP location. This would most likely involve having the cable come through the exterior wall on one side of the house, then go several feet and around a corner to where the AP would be mounted.

I want to do this in a way that is durable, as aesthetically pleasing as possible, and keeps potential for damage to the house to a minimum. I also want to retain as much flexibility as is practical for future upgrades, modifications, etc. I'm thinking that I probably want some sort of weatherproof junction box outside the house where the cable comes out, then run it through conduit to the AP location. Is that the proper way to do this? The instructions in this question seem like they'd work, but is there a better way to do this for my situation?

Be sure to use a shielded Cat5e or Cat6 cable, as Ubiquiti clearly specifies the use of shielded cable and connectors for outside access points.

Conduit is not required if you use the correct type of cable. Ubiquiti would like to sell you ToughCable and connectors, but IMHO those are overpriced .vs. any other cable that meets the need (exterior and shielded) so my Ubiquiti outdoor APs are connected to another brand that I could get for considerably less cash. It can also be difficult to keep the cable bend radius reasonable if running in 1/2" conduit with sharp corners around the building corner. If you want to use conduit, make the corner with sweeps.

Depending on the building layout and wiring access, running the cable up near the roof (or on the soffit, if there's a soffit) is generally less obtrusive than in the middle of the wall. It's also, not at all incidentally, a drier, more protected location for the hole in the wall (or you can come out the soffit if you have access from in the attic.)

If you are using any of the outdoor APs with the stock omni antennas, your best method is to run direct burial shielded Cat5e or Cat6 to a pole in the yard somewhat away from the house. The APs are well weatherproofed and don't need the shelter of the house, and a pole location in the center of your coverage area will give the best coverage. Conduit with sweeps (not sharp corners) would not be a bad idea if digging that trench, and removes the requirement that the cable be direct-burial rated, though it's usually not an extra cost on the cable. The conduit is a small extra cost in never having to dig the trench again.

In terms of getting AC power to an outdoor remote wireless access point - you don't need to. Most Internet router type products run on 12 volts DC. Code compliance is much easier with low voltage wiring, and there are lots of products specifically made to distribute 12V power outdoors, typically to pathway lighting, etc.


What is the mounting bolt spacing of a typical toilet tank? I'm mounting different toilet tank on an old bowl. What is the mounting bolt spacing of a typical toilet tank? By this I mean the 2 bolts that attach the tank to the bowl.

There is no spacing standard, friend.

Tighten all them by hand first then go around and tighten them until you think its good. You don't wanna tighten too much because it'll break the toilet. After you tighten them check 4 leaks. If it leaks then tighten them.

The tank will always have a little wobble, unless its installed close to the wall, so you'll want to ensure if its free standing, meaning nothing is bracing it, tighten it to a degree that there is a bit of stiffness in relation to movement and you should be fine.

You're talking about 'tank-to-bowl' bolts spacing. I think the span, 6 inches, centre to centre, has been standardized within the industry for a long time now, maybe for the last 40 years? If you're not sure, measure them first.


Why are carpenters' pencils flat? My assumption is that it's so they don't roll away.  But if a carpenter spends the majority of his/her day working on a flat surface, a regular pencil wouldn't seem to have the tendency to get away from them.

According to wikipedia, it's so they don't roll away::

  A carpenter pencil (carpentry pencil, carpenter's pencil) is a pencil
  that has a body with a rectangular or elliptical cross-section to
  prevent it from rolling away. Carpenter pencils are easier to grip
  than standard pencils, because they have a larger surface area. The
  non-round core allows thick or thin lines to be drawn by rotating the
  pencil. Thin lines are required for high precision markings and are
  easy to erase, but thick markings are needed to mark on rough
  surfaces. The lead is strong to withstand the stress of marking on
  such surfaces. The pencil is robust to survive in a construction
  environment, for example when placed in a bag together with heavy
  tools. The core is often stronger than in other pencils. Carpenter
  pencils are also used by builders, because they are suitable for
  marking on rough surfaces, such as concrete or stone. This shape and
  lead density aid in marking legible lines with a straight edge that
  are clear and easy to follow with a saw blade.

Though it's possible that there's some historical precedent involved:

  The flat pencil is one of the oldest pencil types. The first versions
  were made by hollowing out sticks of juniper wood. A superior
  technique was discovered: two wooden halves were carved with a groove
  running down them, a plumbago stick placed in one of the grooves, and
  the two halves then glued together—essentially the same method in use
  to this day.

The "flat so it doesn't roll" theory is also supported by this article on Carpenters Pencils at PencilPages.com

  A carpenter's pencil has at least two essential characteristics which
  distinguish it from other types of specialty pencils. First, the shape
  of a carpenter's pencil prevents it from rolling, even when placed on
  a steep sloping roof. The most popular shape seems to be a flat,
  octagonal style. Secondly, the lead must be strong enough to make a
  heavy mark and to withstand the stresses of carpentry, which
  frequently requires marking on very coarse surfaces. The leads are
  usually wide and flat.

We use thick tools (saws, grinders, etc.) and few sharp points (chisel, knife etc.). We need thick parallel lines. Sounds like a sub genius idea but when we cut lines we draw our "seam allowance" and waste more wood because we can trim that down later for a perfect finish.
I can draw a normal pencil line but what if someone else was doing the cutting? They wouldn't know if the line is where the inside of the saw is to be placed or the outside or the middle.
So cutting INSIDE the line means you can see the remains of the line on both cuts rendering your cut over rather than under (which is more problematic and less professional).


How deep should my grout removal go? In regrouting a bathroom, how deep should I go to remove the old grout?
Should I go all the way the depth of the tile or will stopping at some shorter depth be just as effective in letting the new grout adhere?

To get the best results you should remove down to a depth halfway so that the new grout can bind to the original grout and to the edges of the tile.  Removing too little will not last long since the new grout will separate.  I find the best way to remove the grout is to use a dremel with an attachment that will remove the grout.  see link to video.

Dremel Grout Removal


Can I build a hot tub using lumber? So, as it stands now I am hoping to build a hot tub from lumber. I've done ponds and makeshift pools and such, but this I want to be a lasting thing. It'll be framed and then lined with a thick rubber.

The hot tub will be rectangular or square, on a professionally poored concrete pad. I don't think I'm worried about weight of the tub pushing onto concrete, correct me if I'm wrong. I plan on using lumber in the 2x4 to 4x4 range. But could go bigger.

My concern is would the weight of the water put to much force pushing out? Thinking like either 6'x6'x3'. Or 8x8x3'. Maybe a 5'x10'x3'. I may increase depth to four foot.

Any of you guys see an issue with the weight of the water if I fully frame and support the outer structure? Or anything else?

You need to calculate the outward force.

Assume 8' x 8' x 3' hot tub, filled to the top.

3 ft of head * 0.424 * 1(specific gravity of water) = 1.302 psi

That's the pressure at the bottom.  Obviously the pressure at the top is 0.
If I were to sketch the pressure gradient, it would be a triangle, so we can easily calculate the average pressure as 1.302 /2 = 0.651 psi.

That pressure is acting over an area of 8x3x 144 = 3456 si.

So the outward force on the side wall is 0.651 lb/si * 3456 si = 2250 lbs.

For tipping purposes, take this force to be acting as a point load at a height of 1 ft from the ground (Centroid of the pressure gradient triangle).

So, whatever you build will need to support an outward push of 1 ton on each wall.  You might be able to get away with it using some sort of steel banding, but I wouldn't consider it with just lumber -- your corners are going to rip apart.

Look into buying a pre-formed fiberglass hot tub liner.  That will support the outward forces, and all you have to do is build the appropriate frame to support it.

If you use a preformed fiberglass tub, the force is not out, it's down. The hot tub has many irregularities (i.e., seats, hand grasps, etc.) in the side that make it very strong. Set the pad where it needs to be so that the lip of the hot tub is at the same finished deck height. Your choice of lumber is now based on the deck.


What is a good finish for a plywood benchtop? I just completed a simple workbench using dimensional lumber. The top is 3/4" plywood. What is a good—preferably clear—finish that would harden it and protect it from dings and scratches?

I found an epoxy glaze on Lowes.com that looks interesting.

I have a similar workbench but instead of finishing it, I screwed down (no glue) two layers of hardboard. It's cheap so I don't mind dinging it up and since it's only screwed down, it'll be easy to replace when it gets too dinged up.

I would not put any finish on a bench top. You should think of the top as replaceable and sacrificial. You don't want to worry too much about your tools, focus on the work you want to do with them and move on. Workbenchism is for gentlemen with lots of time on their hands.

In other words, don't be a tool nerd.