What in the world is happening on Handbrake on my Mac? I have used handbrake once successfully, to rip my first season of Boardwalk Empire to my Mac. But now any time after that first successful try, it gives me images like this:  where it is all pixelated and the fading between scenes is very jagged-y. What is happening now?

Did you remove the VLC player ?

Because HandBrake no longer includes the libraries needed to decrypt commercial DVDs, you’ll also need to install the VLC media player.

To get the 64-bit benefits from HandBrake, you’ll need to have a 64-bit version of VLC as well.

The standard download is a Universal Binary and contains both 32- and 64-bit code for Intel Macs—if you want to save some disk space, you can download the VLC specific version here.

Answer: don't use Handbrake. Use this: http://www.macxdvd.com/dvd-ripper-mac-free/


Adobe applications - Case-sensitive volumes not supported Mojave I am trying to install the adobe creative cloud apps. when the setup launched it shows this error :

  Case-sensitive drives not supported

I created a partition with the format APFS but nothing. Should I format the whole drive to change it?? if so how? Thanks.

When you Erase a drive, or Add a volume to a Container, you will be given a choice of Format. By default, this is APFS, but it can be changed to "APFS Case Sensitive", which is presumable what you have already done.

You need to change the format to "APFS". Adobe applications have several 'issues' with case-sensitive volumes (even on HFS+) through errors of their own making.


3D modeling application for Mac? Background: I recently upgraded my Mac, and it happens to have a pretty nice graphics card (not that my old one wasn't nice ... in 2006). While I didn't upgrade my Mac for this purpose, it has occurred to me that my life might be a tiny bit more efficient if I used some of this amazing graphics power that I now possess (and perhaps my old Wacom tablet) for sketching 3D designs, rather than my current method*.

So I hopped on over to the Mac App Store, typed in "3d modeling" (and every synonym I could think of), and was disappointed to see a pretty slim selection of apps.

Is there a good basic app for creating 3D objects?  Free is good, cheap is also good -- I don't mind paying but "3D modeling" frequently seems to mean "here's a $10,000 program that lets you make Lord of the Rings", and I'm sure it's amazing for that, but I don't need that.

I need: ability to create simple objects, mostly square or circular, including CSG, and to move them around and look at them from different angles.

I don't need: any particular file formats, or textures, or animation, or smooth organic surfaces like human faces.

If you think "designing a chest of drawers", that's about the level of sophistication that I'm looking for.  What TextEdit.app is for words, I want for 3D objects.

SketchUp is almost what I'm looking for, except it's kind of awkward and not entirely Mac-like, and to do any CSG you need the $500 "Pro" version (which I might get eventually, but it seems like there could well be something better and cheaper).

I'd almost be happy with something like POVRAY: the CSG is nice, the price can't be beat, but unfortunately it lacks any interactivity.

* (It involves whiteboards, paperboard and glue, and listening to old Yes albums while trying to visualize how things will fit together in space.)

I would recommend Verto Studio 3D. It is on the Mac App Store


Is there a way to refresh a Finder file listing? I love my Mac and how things generally just work. Now and again, however, one finds a few annoyances. My latest one is that I cannot find a refresh button anywhere to update a file listing in a Finder window.

Please note that I am aware that refreshing is generally not needed as new files are automatically added to Finder windows. In my case I have a NAS on my network, and to update a file listing in a NAS folder I currently need to change directory to somewhere else and then back again to see new files.

Is there a way to request an updated file listing in a Finder window?

Yes!
A simple AppleScript can instruct the Finder to tell its front window to update every item. Such an AppleScript can be saved as an Application and then dragged to the Finder toolbar to give you a refresh button.
The AppleScript you need is quite simple:
 tell application "Finder" to tell front window to update every item

Paste the above text in Script Editor (in the Utilities folder), then use Export -> Application. THAT executable should be dragged, with CommandOption, to the Finder toolbar (that is, the top bar, not the sidebar).
You can change the icon following this answer.

This worked for me on El Capitan

http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/24714/refresh-finder


How to know if an iOS app does not access the internet via Wi-Fi or Cellular? Is there a clear indicator that an app does not access the internet via Wi-Fi or cellular?

For instance in the Settings App there is an entry for every app installed on iOS 13. There you find an app specific toggle for „cellular data“. But some apps (eg KeePassium) do not have this toggle.

Would an app connect to the internet if its “cellular data” setting is missing?   Because every other app that can use Wi-Fi and cellular has that toggle. I am not worried about bluetooth tethering as I can turn off Bluetooth on individual app basis and cable tethering is not an issue.

iOS 12.
There's Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and USB-Tethering that you cannot directly toggle if you're using any of those interfaces for any purpose. Only way to stop them is to turn off the connection path itself. For Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, they should be turned off globally in Settings. For USB, detaching the cable is the way to go.

First of all, the first comment to the question reveals the easiest way. That applies though if your device is jailbroken. Cydia (now being replaced by Sileo) offers maybe even several tweaks for such purposes.

Thу other way around is to reveal weather your app uses internet by yourself. To be honest I am not familiar with the app, but if it is supposed to use internet you can try to determine its internet access by switching Wi-Fi (or cellular) off while using the app.


How to lock a MacBook Pro (Touch Bar version) with a short cut key? I used to lock my MacBook Air by Shitt-Control-Eject shortcut key. After replacing the Air with a Touch Bar MacBook Pro, there is no Eject key anymore.

How can I lock it with a shortcut key?


What do I do when I get a "sync session failed to start" message when syncing iPhone to itunes? The context is that I'm restoring my wife's new replacement iPhone from a backup. It already did the first sync, where it gets all the settings and whatnot, but not the apps.  Tried the second sync, where it normally transfers the apps, but I'm getting the error message.

On your iPhone, force close all the Apps in the multitask window. Depending on your version of iOS, you do the following:

On iOS 7 and before:

From the Home screen, click the Home button twice.
Tap and hold on the app.
When it starts to jiggle, tap the X to close it.
Repeat until all the apps have been closed.

On iOS 8:

From the Home screen, click the Home button twice.
Swipe the application preview window upwards to close the app. (you can close multiple apps at once)
Repeat until all the apps have been closed.

Now do a Soft reset of your iPhone:
Hold both Home and Sleep button for around 10secs until you see the Apple logo then release. After it returns to Home screen, connect to sync and see if this resolves the issue.

Source: https://discussions.apple.com/message/18381241#18381241

just update your itunes on pc with apple software update


Mid-2010 Macbook Pro won't boot after trying to install macOS Sierra After I ran the macOS Sierra installer to start installation, my 2010 Macbook Pro wouldn't start anymore. It would get to the grey startup screen, flash the Apple logo for a second, and then switch to a crossed circle, and periodically restart that sequence.

I got into verbose mode by starting my computer with Cmd+V and saw error messages like:

efiboot loaded from device: Acpi(PNP0A03,0)/Pci(1F12)/SATA(0,0)/HD(Part3,Sig4B75...)
efiboot file path: \System\Library\CoreServices\boot.efi
ERROR!!! Prelinked kernel corrupted
ERROR!!! Load prelinked kernel with status 0x000000000000001b
Error loading kernel cache (0x1b)
Error loading kernel cache (0x1b)
...

How do I get my computer back on track?

Try to remove the corrupted 'prelinked kernel' first, then rebuild the kextcache.

From the Recovery HD (putting your own volume's name instead of "Macintosh\ HD") try those three commands in Terminal in succession (pressing 'enter' after each):

rm -f /Volumes/Macintosh\ HD/System/Library/PrelinkedKernels/prelinkedkernel
touch /Volumes/Macintosh\ HD/System/Library/Extensions
kextcache -u /Volumes/Macintosh\ HD

See also:

man kextcache

Guys just test your memory health, maybe one of them is not working well. That was my procedure and is working.


Text Editor on iOS that can edit files from any folder in Dropbox Can anyone recommend an iOS text editor (iPad and iPhone) that can open arbitrary text files from Dropbox?

I've used a few, but they tend to be restricted to a specific subdirectory of my Dropbox root, e.g. Elements only lets me work in the ~/Dropbox/Elements directory.

There's a large number of applications available that can do this.

My preferred text editor happens to be Byword. By default, it'll link to a specific dropbox folder (/Apps/Byword), but you can change this in the app's settings; just setting it to "/" will give access to every folder in your Dropbox.

iA Writer is another popular choice.

If you're looking for something more geared towards code than writing, Textastic is nice.

Additionally, Brett Terpstra has compiled a large list of iOS text editors and features here, though it doesn't specify which apps have full access or if they are limited to a specific App folder in Dropbox.

Droptext
by INVISIONS TECHNICAL ARTS LLC
I have used this as simple text editor and no problems so far.

There is a very comprehensive review of IOS text editors with DropBox support here:

http://appadvice.com/appguides/show/dropbox-text-editors

Reviews are quite detailed and describe the pros, cons and costs.


How can I list and edit all defined aliases in Terminal? A friend who owned my current Mac before me created a lot of alias commands.  Is there a way to list all defined aliases and the command that is associated with them?

And if so, am I able to edit them or should I just remove them using unalias and recreate them?

All you need to do is type alias at the prompt and any active aliases will be listed.

Aliases are usually loaded at initialization of your shell so look in .bash_profile or .bashrc in your home directory.

unalias will only work for your current session.  Unless you find where it is defined and loaded, it will be loaded again when you start a new Terminal session.

~/.bashrc gets run for both login and non-login shells, ~/.bash_profile only gets run for login shells.

See login shell vs non-login shell

As per comment from Chris Page:

You should put most of your customizations (including aliases) in ~/.bashrc and have ~/.bash_profile run ~/.bashrc, so they apply to both login (~/.bash_profile) and non-login (~/.bashrc) shells. Also, decide which of these should be "primary" and if the profile is your choice, tack on the rc file at the end. If the rc file is primary, source that at the beginning of your profile

These lines should be in the file ~/.bash_profile:

if [ -f "$HOME/.bashrc" ] ; then
  source $HOME/.bashrc
fi

This will include ~/.bashrc for login shells and in the order you wish if one file depends upon the other based on what you are setting.

You should have a look in these files:

/etc/profile
~/.profile
~/.bash_profile
~/.bashrc

They are plausible startup files for your shell (that I assumed is bash).


Can I use 16GB DDR3-1600MHz RAM in an early Macbook Pro 8.2? I found Macs which had:

16GB RAM installed

8GB RAM installed, but running on 1600MHz instead of 1333MHz (link in dutch)

Question
Is it possible to put 16GB running at 1600MHz in my Mac?
If you've done this, please post a screen shot.
Apparently you need a Macbook Pro with an i7 processor of at least 2.2GHz or more in order to use memory running at 1600MHz.
My hardware

Macbook Pro 8,2  early 2011 - 2.0GHz i7 quad

edit:
I recently found this sleepimage. Basically it's just a swap file of your RAM. so your mac can 'sleep'. But when you install 16GB you're gonna have a 16GB RAM file sitting on your disk as well. Which you can safely delete but it will be recreated when your mac goes to sleep. just something to consider when your working with limited disk space.

It's not possible to use RAM running at 1600MHz in your Macbook Pro 8.2, because it's not supported by the processor.

Your Macbook Pro has the Intel® Core™ i7-2635QM Processor which only allows DDR3-RAM running at 1066/1333MHz according to Intel. (see link for official specs)

While the 2635QM processor does not support 1600MHz memory, it does support 16GB RAM:

Im late also but the latter part of my post might assist someone to. My Late 2011, 15.4AntiGlare 2.2Ghz MBP,is running 16G of Corsair Vengeance- 1600Mhz, for 9 months now. Coincidently Apple just(in Dec) replaced my Logicboard+GPU under the extension program for certain models. **I did find out the OEM Factory Toshiba256G SSD only runs at 3G,Max its capable of. Kind of a Ripoff Apple on an SSD?!!?  Both Bays support 6G sata in my v8.2

.(Which I achieved a Sandisk240G Uktra6G/ Sale price $60. Along with a 1Tb Seagate SSHD running 6G in the optical bay).


How can I make sure that all songs sync to my iPod? I have a 160GB iPod and it only syncs old music to my iPod.

I buy new songs and it will not sync them. I have probably 150 songs that will not sync (purchased songs). I did run diagnostic and it says iTunes helper is not working. Not sure what that is and not sure if it has anything to do with it.

How can I fix so that all songs sync to my iPod?

Make sure that in iTunes that you have it set to sync your "Entire Music Library":

Open iTunes*
Connect your iPod
Select it in the iTunes sidebar
Click the "Music" tab
Ensure "Sync Music" is checked
Select "Entire Music Library"

*This assumes you are running a fairly recent version of iTunes.

Here is another answer, from Apple‘s support site:
https://support.apple.com/en-au/HT201253


View Apple Music play history (playlists) from radio stations like Beats 1? I missed "liking" a song that was playing on Beats 1. Now I'm trying to see what songs were played previously in the Beats 1 radio station (like a playlist history). Is there a way to do so?

Hej m8, check this instruction: http://www.imore.com/how-use-next-apples-new-music-app#history


Philips TV: Connect MacBook shared folder to TV I have an issue: Connect Macbook and Philips TV.

I want to browse Macbook shared folder in Philips TV, but it cannot be done as easily as on Windows (uh)

Maximum what I've found after an hour of searching in google: Smart TV Share, program in App Store. It allows Philips TV to browse only in Pictures folder.

I also try to change target directory of this program by settings, but nothing seems to changed. (No settings available for user :( )

Please, if anyone knows solution, help me!

try plex ;)
it creates a media server on the network and you reach the shared contents from your smart TV like a flash drive. it works on my LG smart TV


MacBook Pro 2016 (Touch Bar) in “Critical Update” loop So my MacBook Pro has been experiencing some weird issues after an unprompted and unexpected shut down. When I turned it back on, it claimed there was a “critical software update” and asked to choose a WiFi network. So I did so and it installed and after two minutes it was done. However, the USB C ports on the left side had stopped working. I was using a satechi adapter and removed it to find that the charging cable only works on one of the two ports now. The right side ports will work with the adapter usually. I did a SMC reset and reinstalled High Sierra, so before I do a full wipe I want to see if anyone can give me an answer.

Weird enough I just had this, I unplugged all the USB-C devices and then did a power cycle and it booted fine. I think it's time to build a backup computer.

Having the same problem, it passed the critical update screen after several retries. Running diagnostics also does not show any problem.


Add to Reading List from Mac OS X Mail Is there a keyboard shortcut / key modifier for adding links to the Reading List from Mail? You can hold ⌘ to open the link in the background, but that seems to be about it.

In Safari, you can ⇧-click links to add them to the Reading List. Does such a shortcut exist in Mail? I'm aware of the Add to Reading List command available in the context menu; I just find it more cumbersome than I'd like, especially for newsletters such as StackExchange's, which are essentially a collection of links.

You can use Keyboard Maestro with a macro such as this. The following macro will add the link to the Reading List if the link is clicked whilst holding control and alt. Holding control means it will be right-clicked anyway and typing the text means it will select the option from anywhere in the list.

If you have multiple services enabled, you will need to add a step to select the Services submenu.


MacBook Pro mid 2012 keyboard issue I'm using MacBook Pro 2012 model with macOS Catalina. A few keys (I don't know which ones exactly) key on my built-in keyboard seems to be pressed continuously. I have disabled the internal keyboard using kextunload in Terminal and currently using an external USB Windows keyboard.

Here's the issue:
Every time I restart my system, the built-in keyboard gets enabled automatically (So I have to use kextunload again and again). Also, during startup, I'm unable to start in safe mode or Recovery mode or change startup disk using an external keyboard (I guess this happens as a result of built-in keyboard getting enabled at startup and hence the pressing of some keys on it).

Is there a way to permanently disable the built-in keyboard and make the external keyboard as an only input source?

It has nothing to do with your build in keyboard. What u have encounter is due to MacOs Catalina. I have same problem. It started from bottom row of alphabetic of your keyboard. You get multiple Z after pressing the Z button once until you have to press the return key to stop it. It sorts of like a virus escalated to the rest of your buttons on the keyboard. Slowly all your small caps alphabetic auto Caps Lock although you have not activated the Caps Lock and numerics auto change to symbols without pressing shift button. The WORST OF ALL COMMAND button + R button (have been remove from your drive) after the update to MacOs Catalina that does not allow u to access to internet recovery utilities. Further Damage done by Catalina is that many apps not be able to support. So congrates! All u could do is to restart your macbook pro whenever should these problem arise each time.


Search ﬁ (one character) as fi (two characters) in mdfind In the pdf below, the two characters f and i is contracted into the one-character ligature ﬁ as in "significance". So that when I searched "Brown Adipose Tissue: Function and Physiological Significance" (f and i are two characters) by mdfind, I did find this pdf. Is there a way to search such PDF files with mdfind by "... Significance" where "f" and "i" do not ligature?

https://journals.physiology.org/doi/full/10.1152/physrev.00015.2003

$ mdfind -onlyin . "(kMDItemTextContent=='Brown Adipose Tissue: Function and Physiological Significance'c)" # two characters.
$ mdfind -onlyin . "(kMDItemTextContent=='Brown Adipose Tissue: Function and Physiological Signiﬁcance'c)" # one character
/Users/xxx/Downloads/x/physrev.00015.2003.pdf

Note that the following should not be used as it searches in kMDItemTitle as well.

$ mdfind -onlyin . 'Brown Adipose Tissue: Function and Physiological Significance' # two characters
/Users/xxx/Downloads/x/physrev.00015.2003.pdf

Although the fi characters are displayed as a single ligature glyph, they are understood within the PDF as distinct letters. (And within every other text app such as TextEdit, Pages, Safari, etc, which will also display ligatures and understand them as separate characters.)

I can search in Safari or Preview within the PDF for the letters fi, and get the ligature in the results:

I can also copy and paste the text, or export it from the PDF, and the text has separate characters for that ligature.

However, results using Spotlight do seem to be more variable. If I create a PDF from TextEdit with the word 'office' using ligature glyphs, that word is not be found in a Spotlight search. If I do the same from Affinity Publisher, the word is found.

I have other PDFs with ligature glyphs that Spotlight can search.

It is of course also possible to produce a PDF where the underlying chars are not preserved.

TL;DR: it seems that Spotlight is choosy about font encoding when indexing PDF text content. Text encoded with a Type 1 Roman encoding does not produce the correct result.

So your options are to write a shell script that offers up the ligated Unicode glyphs whenever the relevant combination of characters occur (fi, fl, ffi, ffl, ct, st), and search PDFs using both forms; or use a non-Spotlight method of querying the text in the PDF.

ﬁ can be typed as one character via OptionShift5.

There is a Terminal preference under the Profiles tab, select the profile in use, and then click the 'Keyboard' tab, at the very bottom, that changes Option to Meta.

If you have this enabled you'll probably just get a 5, but no matter the result you don't get ﬁ. The easiest result would be to enter ﬁ into any other text field, cut and paste it into your Terminal.


-1006F error message when trying to recover mac my macbook pro crashed and i sent it for repairs.. so the guy installed a new hard drive but then sent it back with a screen having a flashing folder with a question mark.. so i looked at this page and basically restarted by pressing the option button. So I came to a screen that asked for my internet password.. then i clicked on a button that says internet recovery.. then i got this screen:

after a while I got a screen with error: apple.com/support -1006F.. any idea what that means or what I should do next?

Take a look at this discussion on Apple Support Communities about -1006f which contains this solution :

Hold Command and R keys while the Mac is starting to start in Recovery HD. If you can start up, open Disk Utility, select Macintosh HD in the sidebar and verify the disk. If it gives you an error, repair your drive. If it can't be repaired, you need a new hard disk.
If you can't start, hold Command, Option (Alt) and R keys

I had the same problem "-1007f*". Rebooting with option key pressed and typing in my WiFi password fixed it.


Boot Camp 5 drivers not installing on Windows 8 (iMac) So I have a mid-2010 iMac 22" that I just installed Windows 8 on, but cannot get the Boot Camp 5 drivers to install.

I was unaware that my mid-2010 iMac was technically unsupported for the Windows 8, but the Boot Camp assistant native to my OSX successfully installed it anyways. I know that the Apple support pages say that it is unsupported but when I look at what the specs are needed to run Windows 8 (on the Windows 8 support pages) my machine qualifies.

I haven't done much with the Windows partition as of yet, but so far it seems to run fine. So my question is:

Is it possible for me to not install any drivers, and safely use the Windows 8?

or

Can we work around the "Boot Camp 5 isn't supported on this Mac" and install the Boot Camp 5 drivers?

They don't support it because they want you to use their software


How to fix curl: (60) SSL certificate: Invalid certificate chain when using sudo So since the Mavericks upgrade curl has more issues with certificates.

When trying to curl a file from my web server with it's self-signed certificate it was getting the error "SSL Certificate: Invalid certificate chain".

This was corrected by adding the certificate to my system keychain and setting it to always allow SSL, information I found here and here.

This works fine and when I curl a file it downloads properly.

However if I run curl with sudo before (e.g I have a script which needs to be run with sudo and does a curl in it) then I'm back to the same error message.

I'm guessing that root doesn't read from the system keychain perhaps?

Does anyone know a way to fix this?

f you store your CA certificates on the filesystem (in PEM format) you can tell curl to use them with

sudo curl --cacert /path/to/cacert.pem ...

You can also turn off the certificate verification with

sudo curl --insecure ...

Edit: Updated with regard to feedback

If you want to set this permanently, you should create a .curlrc files and place in your home directory. sudo commands may need this file in /var/root The file takes the same options as the command line but without the dashes. One option per line:

cacert=/path/to/my/certs.pem

To make sudo curl work (on OSX Sierra), we had to import the certificate into the System.keychain and trust it there. This could be done manually in the Keychain app or using this command:

sudo security add-trusted-cert -d -k /Library/Keychains/System.keychain /path/to/cert.pem

It was important to both specify -d and manually set the path to the System keychain via -k to make sure the cert actually gets imported there if it isn't yet.

The command works without sudo, but then would ask for the password via a UI dialog, which might be a hurdle for scripts.


Dropbox-like client for Macs to access existing FTP/WebDAV/CMIS storage We have many users on Macs that access their files on one big non-Mac server that supports FTP/WebDAV/CMIS.

PROBLEM: They can not use their files while not connected to the Internet.

QUESTION: Is there a Dropbox-like software for FTP? or WebDAV? or CMIS?

When connected, pushes local changes to the server
When connected, polls the server every n minutes to pull changes
Preferably open source
Dropbox-like UI: Tray icon, minimal configuration dialog, maybe green check in Finder to show which files are synchronized.
Starts automatically at boot or login

Just to make it clear: I am not looking for an online hosting service. I have an existing server and there are no plan to move any data to any cloud. I am looking for a client-side software that can synchronize local files with the server when connected to the network.

FTPbox is nearly perfect and open source, but it has not been ported to Mac yet.
GoodSync does not work in the background (requires user click) so it is a no-go.

I was asked to add a short section describing why DropBox is not a solution: 1) Documents are confidential, third-party is not an option 2) Dropbox is not reliable enough (better uptime/SLA is needed) 3) Dropbox becomes crazily expensive for large scale 4) The FTP/WebDAV/CMIS interface is actually provided by "Alfresco", an enterprise document management system which has many other features (not just file transfer), and is integrated with other critical enterprise systems. So my question is really about client-side only.

You may want to look into the following open source applications:

FTPSync

a Perl script to synchronize a local directory tree and a remote FTP directory tree.
ownCloud

Web services under your control.

Current features: file management, WebDAV access, share via public link, music streaming, users & groups, OpenID, LDAP
In development: sharing, encryption, calendar, contacts, etc., desktop sync client, Android & webOS apps, server-server sync

NOTE: You do not have to utilize their storage.

git-annex Assistant is close to what you ask for:

it's dropbox-like;
it's free (= libre) software, i.e. you must be able to host it on your own, and adapt it.

What it is missing (at least, now):

the protocols are not the ones that you want (although there might be some ways to integrate it with WebDAV -- http://git-annex.branchable.com/ikiwiki.cgi?P=webdav);
it's in development stage.


The effective power bug made my iMessage not work I gave a "friend" my number and he sent the effective power code and now my iMessage doesn't work anymore I click on the app for iMessage and the app crashes

Here's a few things to do for a fix:

If you receive one of these messages, there are a few possible fixes that have worked for us and for other people who have encountered the bug. If the Messages app was opened to the conversation with the person who sent the offending message, the Messages app can be reopened to this conversation. Sending a reply message fixes the problem.

If Messages was opened to the conversation list view, the app will crash when you attempt to open it. You can fix this by having someone send you a message or by sending a message to yourself. There are several options for sending a message to yourself, including sending yourself a message via Siri or through the Share sheet in any app.

To send yourself a message in Siri, tell Siri to "Send a message to myself." Siri will open up a dialogue where you can give her a quick message like "Fix" that'll be sent to your iPhone to clear away the malicious message.

Alternatively, you can open an app like Notes, craft a quick note, and use the Share option (the little document with an arrow) to message it to yourself. Sending yourself something though the share sheet of an app opens a new messages window where you can enter your own contact information.

Source: Macrumors


iPhone asks 'Trust This Computer' again (I am on macOS 10.14.6 and iOS 12.4)

I am certain that I have trusted my Mac before.
Without the latter trust, I can also access the phone in iTunes.

I have tried reset "Location and Privacy" on my phone. Then

When connecting the iPhone with iTunes running, it asks for the trust and I trust it.
Reboot my Mac and the phone asks for another trust.

Is there some known malware mimics system behavior and steal data from an iPhone?

(I do have installed some pir*ted software recently. That's my fault.)

Personal Hotspot being "on" while connecting the USB (tethering) seems to be the issue. Turn it off, connect the cable and turn it back on if required.
If you just need to use the hotspot and not bother about syncing iPhone using iTunes/Finder, then enter passcode once, & tap "cancel" or "Don't Trust" second time onwards and you will not face any problems.

Have you tried connecting the device, trusting it and then unplugging it and repeat.


How to comprehensively benchmark SSDs on OS X? I want to benchmark my SSD under different circumstances. Connected through USB3, Thunderbolt and internally (S-ATA).

Unfortunately I can only find benchmarks which concentrate on measuring read and write speeds. I am also (and mostly) interested in the latency.

I tried Xbench and Blackmagic Disk Speed Test.

Is there a tool which can benchmark storage devices including their latency?

For the OP, look up fio, I think someone mentioned it somewhere on this. It's the best way to explore the limits of the SSD on your Mac. Just be sure to use the 'direct=0' argument, or you may bork your filesystem.

That said...

Some of the answers here are just absurd! I know the replies are years old at this point, but you absolutely can, and SHOULD, measure IO Latency of an SSD.

tl;dr: SSDs have IO latency like any other storage system, you can measure it.

There's a distinct difference between 'Seek Time', a mechanically-bound metric associated with spinning disk, and 'IO Service Time' which is an aggregate of the latency associated with each step of the I/O process. In environments with spinning disks (including home PCs and Macs), Seek Time is one such step, and can be quite significant in poorly designed/cached/maintained systems (which is probably the vast majority of business systems, and nearly every home system not run by someone skilled in the realm of storage performance tuning).

Generally, folks are referring to this IO Service Time when they say 'latency', and not 'Seek Time', as that metric has become increasingly irrelevant as:

Flash-based storage devices become the norm
Spinning disks inside and outside of the enterprise IT shop bump up against mechanical limitations which simply cannot be exceeded due to physics
Systems needing real performance rely on software optimizations (caching implementations, IO coalescing, maintenance of stripe sets and other tricks to ease the grip Newtonian physics has on the storage system's disks) or expectation management ("If you want faster, don't be cheap, buy flash, otherwise hush.") as most of the ultra-high-performance storage consumers have moved to Flash long ago, taking the pressure off of spinning disk manufacturers to push for that last quarter of a millisecond of seek time performance

When we are evaluating a storage system, we are talking in terms of microseconds most of the time. These days, if a storage system cannot provide consistently sub-5ms performance under any load (for general workloads), it can't hang. For the high performance consumers, we expect consistent sub-1ms response times for the critical workload profiles.

The fastest spinning disks you can get have seek times of over 2ms alone, and that's the best case scenario. Add in the fact that if you're in a RAID array scenario, every disk needs to seek to the desired stripe and they may be all over the place as far as head position, so it can get pretty ugly. (In a pure hardware RAID scenario without caching strategies to lessen this, see above.) Add in to that the time it actually takes to move the desired data, compute parity if necessary, update stripes where applicable... You can see, the benefits of SSDs become obvious immediately, in terms that aren't very hard to articulate, once you know what's up. Hope this rant helps googlers out there in their quest for the knowledges.

Those utilities you list likely do test drive latency, but only for HDD.

You really can't test the latency of an SSD, because there are no spinning parts to bring the required disk sector under the read-write head, and there is no read-write head for that matter. HDD metrics like rotational latency and seek times don't apply:

  For SSDs, most of the attributes related to the movement of mechanical components are not applicable, but the device is actually affected by some other electrically based element that still causes a measurable delay when isolating and measuring that attribute

There is a latency metric for SSD, but you still can't test it, or it won't tell you anything of value if you could, unless you have a certain kind of enterprise design:

  Today low latency can only effectively be addressed by one particular type of storage architecture and that’s an enterprise SSD design. Latency in a technical environment is synonymous with delay. More succinctly latency in terms of a SSD is how long it will take for a request to complete its round trip cycle from the time the request enters the device to the time that it leaves the device with the “payload” in tow.

The latency will be exactly the same for all the examples you mention because it is a metric internal to the SSD (see above "from the time the request enters the device to the time that it leaves the device with the “payload” in tow.").

If you want to know what that value is for your SSD, check with the manufacturer.


Iphone 4S 8.1.1 Battery Problem What else can I do to make my iPhone 4S work for as long as possible?

I have done all the "standard" battery saving techniques recommended on most sites, like:

turn off background app refresh, automatic updates
lower brightness all the way / disable auto brightness
keep bluetooth and cellular Off always. Rarely use WiFi.
No dynamic backgrounds.

The battery is still dying way too quickly.
My Battery Usage indicates that the Home and Lock Screen are using 30% of the battery. How is that possible? What is it doing??

I have the same problem. Max life is 12 hours and very very little use.  It goes down by 5% per hour!!!

Apple said battery fine and I should only expect 10 to 12 hrs.  Back several iOS ago I could get well over 24 hours.

Sounds like the want to force us to get new iPhones 6.

Please check this ultimate guide in regards to battery problems out.

Also I think you should take a look into:

Settings > Location settings (which apps are allowed to use it and when)
Settings > E-mail > Check your e-mail fetch/push settings.
Settings > Notification center (which apps are allowed to push notifications e.g. messages, badges, sounds..)

It could also be a rogue app which is constantly using battery (it can be possible that you don't see that in settings > battery usage). I had that when i went from iOS6 > iOS7 and my battery only lasted for a 12/13hours. It was a rogue app that i had on my phone and did have a bug/problem with iOS7. It could be that it's one of your older apps which doesn't support yet iOS8 (it could work but maybe not as it should).

I'm also also using a iPhone 4S but with iOS 71.2. and don't have a battery drain. I can use it for about 24 hours without charging and 90% of the time it has WIFI access (but no 3G). I fetch my e-mail once an hour. No background processes allowed. Only a limited selection of apps that are allowed to show push notifications.


How to open more than one app at a time in launchpad? Is there a way to open more than one app at a time in launchpad before it fades away?

I've tried holding down command, option, control, & shift in different configurations while clicking an app, but all that seems to do sometimes is to make launchpad very slowly fade out.

I like having my favorite apps on one screen, but launchpad is doubling the clicks needed to open apps as opposed to having them on the dock.

Using Lion btw.

There is no way to do it, it's one app at a time.


Make iPhone silent while sleeping When I go to sleep I tell a smart alarm app (Pillow) that I'm going to sleep. When I wake up I tell that same app that I'm awake. Between these two events, I would like for my iPhone not to vibrate or make any other noise. How can I achieve this?
EDIT: To clarify, I'm looking for a way to do this automatically.

A partial solution is to create an "Automation" with the "Shortcuts" app that enters Do-not-disturb mode whenever the smart-alarm app is opened. Then one has to manually exit Do-not-disturb mode every morning upon waking up. Not a perfect solution by any means, but I think it's probably good enough.

Airplane mode as well brother and turning off your wifi as well, its far better for your health and your sleep not to have a device emitting radiation next to your head.


How can I make the icon of a folder to be a given .icns file? I have a .icns file.
I want to make the icon of folder to be this .icns.

How can I make that?

EDIT

The .icns file that I use does not have the .icns file as its icon.

I have tried to copy the .icns file in Preview and paste it to the icon, but it copies the 1024x1024 image.

"Get Info" of the folder you want the icon to be replaced,
using Finder, drag and drop the *.icns file to the current top, i.e. smaller icon of the folder in the "Get Info" window.

Here's how I solved this problem:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1K63UhKaOA

I created an empty app with the .icns inside and then copy/paste from the info of the app to the info of the folder.


Preserve Window Spaces Placement Between Restarts I use Spaces to organize the task I'm pursing. In that vein, I often will have a browser window on each Space, with open tabs relevant to that task that Space is used for.

For example, Space 1 is for Work. So in addition to work applications, I have a browser window open with tabs relevant to work. Space 2 is for Photography. And Space 3 is for just general browsing and social networking, etc.

I am easily able to put a different browser window into each space. The problem is that when I restart the computer, all windows appear in the first Space!

My browser is Chrome, and perhaps this is an issue I need to take up with the Chrome team. Or is this a bug in OS X Lion?

I encountered this posting while searching for a way to do exactly what OP wanted to do.

Interestingly, Finder seems to do it right -- when you have multiple Finder windows in various Spaces, and restart your Mac (or if you just "killall Finder" at Terminal, which restarts Finder), they go into the Spaces where they were.

Also, Safari often does that too. Safari seems to preserve the Space each window was opened at, if you restart your Mac with all the browsers open. But Safari fails to remember Spaces if you simply quit and restart the app itself.

So I guess it's not true that it is impossible to achieve this, but there seem to be some issues within the Mac system that do not allow this all the time for all apps.
But I'm hopeful that someone could find out a tweak.

Try using Firefox. It remembers the window settings correctly.


Minimize all but the active of the current application's windows I switch to, for example, Safari and find the window I want. I can Command-Option-H to hide all the other applications, but I also want to minimize all the Safari windows except the one I'm using (the front-most one).

Is there a way to do this? Would settle for an AppleScript I can trigger with Keyboard Maestro.

Here is an AppleScript that achieves the results of what you originally explicitly and specifically asked for, before editing the question after it was answered.

tell application "Safari"
    activate
    tell application "System Events"
        keystroke "h" using {command down, option down}
    end tell
    set miniaturized of (windows whose index is not 1) to true
end tell

Note: The above AppleScript works for me under OS X 10.8.5 and Safari 6.2.8 however I have not tested it on any other version of OS X. That said, I believe it will work fine on other versions of OS X.

Update to address the edit of the original question:

I played around a bit with different methods and what I found was, within the ways I tried, most apps worked while some would not. In other words, I didn't find a universal method that worked with all the apps I normally run. So, I'm adding a block of code that you can try and see if it can work for you.

Ideally simply hiding all other apps and minimizing the non-active windows of the current app so as to have a smooth appearance in action it what's desired however Finder presented a challenge.  So in this example code Finder must minimize all it windows first and bring back what was the frontmost while other apps have a nice cascading effect to minimized non-active windows while leaving the frontmost windows as is.

tell application "System Events"
    set frontApp to name of first application process whose frontmost is true
    set windowName to name of first window of application process frontApp
end tell

if not frontApp is "Finder" then
    tell application frontApp
        activate
        tell application "System Events"
            keystroke "h" using {command down, option down}
        end tell
        set miniaturized of (windows whose name is not windowName) to true
    end tell
else
    tell application frontApp
        activate
        tell application "System Events"
            keystroke "h" using {command down, option down}
            keystroke "m" using {command down, option down}
            tell process frontApp to click menu item windowName of menu 1 of menu bar item "Window" of menu bar 1
        end tell
    end tell
end if

This AppleScript will tell the active application to minimize all windows except the active (aka frontmost) window.
set theFrontApp to (path to frontmost application as Unicode text)
tell application theFrontApp
    set theWindows to the windows whose miniaturized is false
    set theFrontID to the id of the front window
    repeat with theWindow in theWindows
        if the id of theWindow is not theFrontID then set the miniaturized of theWindow to true
    end repeat
end tell

Props to @barryels for the nifty snippet for theFrontApp.


iTunes insists on erasing my iPhone I have an iPhone that was synced to an iTunes library. Then I upgraded my Mac, and forgot to backup the iTunes library and transfer it to the new Mac. Ever since, I have been manually managing my music by dragging and dropping it from the filesystem onto iTunes, and not "syncing".

And things have been working fine for the past few years. But now, after yet another Mac upgrade, and upgrading to iTunes 11, I can no longer manually manage my music on my iPhone. When I try to turn on "manually manage music and videos", iTunes says:

The iPhone “kPhone” is synced with another iTunes library on “kart's macbook”. Do you want to erase this iPhone and sync with this iTunes library?

I don't want to erase the whole phone -- apps, app data, app settings, synced data in apps, videos, books, etc. I just want to copy music onto the iPhone. I have already deleted the music that's already on the iPhone. How do I copy music?

I just ran into the same problem. Here's the solution:

There are "iPhone Managers" that Apple does not promote using but it works 100%. These "iPhone Managers" (the names I'll give you in a second) allow you to transfer your CONTACTS, MUSIC, APPS, APP DATA, APP SETTINGS, PHOTOS & VIDEOS and a LOT more to your Mac or Windows computer.

After you transfer whatever it is you want to keep a backup of to your Mac in a nicely labeled folder on your desktop (just in case the iTunes Manual Backup doesn't keep some of your settings or pictures, contacts, etc.), you can then ERASE AND SYNC and transfer everything from the folder you made on your desktop with all of your files and transfer it back.

This is the only way I know and am doing it as we speak.

I tried posting links but since I'm new it won't let me. You can try these names:

CopyTrans
iFunBox for Mac
FileApp

I hope this helps.


The operation can’t be completed because the original item for “Foo” can’t be found I have a little NAS at home which makes some volumes available through AFP. This all worked great. Until I shut it down for a while and reconnected it recently.

I can see the device on the network and I can open it and select a share. But when I try to mount the share, I get the following error:

"The operation can’t be completed because the original item for “Foo” can’t be found"

I think this is because my little NAS changed to a new IP and OS X somehow cached the original (alias?) somewhere.

The fact that I can successfully open these shares from another Mac, which had never seen these before, confirms that I think.

Does anyone know where this is potentially cached? Is there anything I can reset or throw away to get past this error?

Apparently this problem can occur for many different reasons.  In my case it was solved by re-launching the finder.  A description and solution for this was at http://www.cnet.com/news/fix-shared-computer-not-found-in-finder/ .

  To fix this problem, you simply need to relaunch the Finder, and it will re-populate the list of shared devices. To do this, you can do one of the following:

  Hold the Option key and right-click the Finder icon in the Dock, then select Relaunch.
  Press Option-Command-Escape or choose Force Quit from the Apple menu, then select the Finder and click Relaunch.
  Log out and log back in to your user account.

This solves the error message:
"The operation can’t be completed because the original item for BLANK can’t be found"
I was able to fix this by doing the following:

starting my mac in recovery mode by holding cmd + opt + r
selecting disk utility
clicking mount for my SSD
clicking first aid
restart my mac


How can I add custom items to the Apple menu? I would like to add shortcuts to open apps such as Terminal, Google Chrome, Launchpad etc., or to open a folder as a sub-menu.

Is it possible to do so? If yes, how do I do it?

I am running macOS Mojave.

The Apple menu is not designed to be customized by anyone. However, I would recommend XMenu (available on the Mac App Store, and also download from here).

This handy little app will give you menus in the menu bar that you can customize, either to include the entire Applications folder as a drop-down menu, or you can add aliases to 'Favorite' items.

The Apple menu depends on the App displayed in front, to display usefull command for this app.

It can't be customized, or you have to create your own app and when it'll be in front you can put whatever shortcuts you want.

Otherwise, you can put any shortcut you want in the Dock.


How do you turn on "Dark Mode" in OS X Yosemite? Has anyone figured out how to enable Dark Mode yet? I've been looking around for a while and haven't been able to find it anywhere.

System Preferences > General > Use dark menu bar and Dock

Source of Turn on Dark Mode in OS X Yosemite Gif


"Unknown Error = -2,147,414,007" on creating certificate with Certificate Assistant I am getting "Unknown Error = -2,147,414,007" on creating a certificate through the Keychain app.

Steps to Recreate:

Open the Keychain Access application. Select Certificate Assistant > Create a Certificate in the application menu (Keychain Access). Only Modified Parameters are listed. The remaining options are kept with default values.
Name of Certificate = gdbcert
Identity Type = Self Signed Root
Certificate Type = Code Signing

Check the Let me override defaults checkbox, and click Continue.

On the next page, leave Security Number to be 1, and set Validity Period to 3650.

Then click Continue once again, and keep doing so to skip the next six screens until you see the one entitled Specify a Location For The Certificate.

For the only property, Keychain, choose System from the drop-down list. Lastly, click Create, type in your password, if prompted, and click Done.

Update: I'm able to create certificates to the Login Keychain. The issue is only when I try to create certificates for the System Keychain.

Was able to get this to work. The purpose for creating a certificate was to codesign gdb on Mac. Here are the steps for the same:-

Create a certificate with all the parameters mentioned above.
Instead of saving the Keychain under location System, save it under
Login.
Then, unlock the System Keychain by clicking on the lock icon
on the top left corner and drag the certificate from Login to System.
Right Click the Certificate, click on Get Info and and under Trust, set to Always Trust.
Restart taskgated in terminal: killall taskgated
Enable root account:
Open System Preferences.
Go to User & Groups > Unlock.
Login Options > "Join" (next to Network Account Server).
Click "Open Directory Utility".
Go up to Edit > Enable Root User.
Run codesign -fs gdbc /usr/local/bin/gdb in the terminal.
Disable Root Account again and you should be good to go.

Credits:

Keychain Access error when creating new system certificate
https://gist.github.com/hlissner/898b7dfc0a3b63824a70e15cd0180154

Before you create a certificate, you should unlock the lock on System. In this case, you won't get that error.


How is Screen Time calculated? Why is the calculated time seemingly longer than time spent on iPhone? Under Screen Time, the report for the time spent on my phone is 1 hour 5 minutes.
However, when looking at all the apps used, the time spent on the phone adds up to about 28 minutes and not 1 hour 5 minutes.
Time spent on iPhone for the full day:

But looking at all apps, the time spent is about 28 minutes

How is Screen Time calculated?

Why is time spent on the iPhone calculated to  1 hour 5 minutes if time spent on all apps is really about 28 minutes?

Note:

I'm using ios v14. iPhone SE 1st Generation.
The iPhone is supervised, (but I don't see why that would matter).
Share Across Devices is enabled, however, I don't own or use any other apple devices besides this iPhone (seemingly this shouldn't either matter).

This is a bug on ios 14.
From an article on Medium.com:

...Turns out I’m not the only one seeing weird issues with screentime.
There doesn’t seem to be a correlation in regards to the iPhone model.
It also doesn’t seem to be a very common problem. However, others have
been reporting other odd screentime glitches. Some have reported their
screentime being inaccurately high with no app to blame. And others
are also reporting that their phone claims they’ve spent hours on
websites they’ve never visited.

My Screen Time claims that I was using my iPhone for 24Hours! (let's hope I wasn't...).

I have visited stackoverflow for about 1 minute, however, it's calculated as 24 hours.

Also, all apps were fully closed, no apps were running in the background.

Since there is no screentime API available to developers I doubt anyone can tell how the calculation works. I think you might have the option to share across devices turned on. This includes screen time from all Apple devices that are using your apple email.


Is it possible to work with a Mac Pro through a MacBook? I've been thinking of getting a Mac Pro to do some serious graphics work.  However, I don't have the funds to get it along with a Retina display at the same time. The display, keyboard, speakers, etc. would have to wait a few months.

If I get the Mac Pro, can I run it through my MacBook Air? If so, would this also work for a Mac Mini, as I might end up with that instead?

I'm going to elaborate on the answers given so far (the answer + associated comments above) in case you or someone needs more details.

Screen Sharing is what Apple calls the VNC / remote desktop technology built into OS X for many years now. I'm assuming your machine is running 10.10 Yosemite. Instructions for earlier versions of OS X are similar.

Screen Sharing allows the Mac--in this case the Mac pro sans monitor--to display on another machine on the local network; for you, your Air. Screen Sharing is configured in the Sharing pane of System Preferences. System Preferences can be accessed from the Apple menu at the top left of the screen, for example.

You may need to borrow a monitor or get help at an Apple store near you. I'd be surprised if they didn't let you borrow one of their monitors to configure your Mac Pro for Screen Sharing.

Here is what you need to do from your Mac Pro:

Run System Preferences.
Click on "Sharing" in the third row.
Click the check box next to "Screen Sharing".
Notice the green dot and "Screen Sharing: On" to the right of that check box. Underneath that note, it says: "Other users can access your computer's screen at vnc://x.x.x.x/ [though the x's will be replaced by numbers] or by looking for "[Your Mac's Name]" in the Finder sidebar."
Take note of your Mac Pro's Name. Note that you can change your Mac's name at the top of "Sharing" in System Preferences if you want to.
Make sure that both your Mac Pro and your MacBook Air are connected to your home network.
Move to your Air.
Go to the Finder (by clicking the smiling Finder guy on the Dock or by clicking on the Desktop background.
Press the COMMAND key + n to open a Finder window.
Look in the sidebar, the leftmost part of the window that shows a list of folders, disks, etc. Locate "Shared", a header that will only show up if a machine on your network is sharing files (and / nor Screen Sharing).
Under Shared, you should see the name of your Mac Pro. Click it. You should see a button near the upper-right corner of your Finder Window.
Click that button. That should launch the Screen Sharing application that will allow you to interact with your Mac Pro. Type in the username and password that you set up as your user account on your Mac Pro. Note that screen refresh will be slower than a real monitor and are dependent on the speed of your network.

Good luck! I hope this helps. I use VNC / Screen Sharing between my Mac and my iPad all the time. My Mac is usually in the basement, so if I need to look at something quick, it's often easiest just to use VNC (I use Remoter VNC) on the iPad. (For your case, might I humbly suggest that you consider buying a used monitor temporarily. You could probably get one for $50 or less and it would most likely be a better experience.)

Note: I put in a lot of detail. I am not trying to insult your intelligence. I just didn't want to skip over any steps that might cause confusion.

I'm afraid not, the Air wouldn't work as an external display. Also, the Air isn't retina.

Your best bet may well be to run your Pro through an HD TV, which although isn't quite as nice as a Retina display, it is certainly better than a normal display.


Is there a way to write rules for incoming calls? I'd like to write some rules for incoming calls on my iPhone.  For instance, if a call from a certain number comes in, I'd like it to go to voice-mail.  Or simply hang up and not answer at all.

Is there a way to do this natively on the iPhone or perhaps an app that does that?

Without jail breaking iOS - you can't get a phone call on any app but the Apple phone app (which doesn't support call screening as you asked).

Some carriers will let you set this up - but it's nothing to do with the iPhone.

Lastly, there are tons of services that require another phone number. Google Voice is one where you can program quiet hours, white list or black list and have exactly such control.

The downside to these other apps is that you'll need to have people call your alternate number, so it's not as easy - even with the ability to port an existing number to GV and then get a new number from your carrier.

Several iOS apps work with Google Voice like the official app and GV Mobile + and there are probably a hundred other VOIP solutions on the app store, but Google and Skype are the big players today.

just turn your phone on airplane mode!! and if you have wi-fi then you can turn on the wifi and still use the internet but you will not recieve phone calls or texts from anyone it will go straight to voicemail.. if you only want it for certain people tho then you need to call your carier and have them blocked. hope this helps


HELP ! Terminal is frozen while copying files in recovery mode : What should I do? total noob here,
I have a late 2008 Macbook Pro that is finally (almost) dead.
I've managed to use terminal in recovery mode to copy the contents of my User folder to an external drive using the cp command.
However, after many hours copying away, the mac is totally frozen.
No mouse response, no trackpad, no keyboard, the computer doesn't sleep when i close the screen, it's stuck.
My uneducated guess is that it reached the damaged part of the HD and can't copy any more data.
During the copy process it did hang for a few seconds from time to time but not for long periods.
It would also go to sleep every once in a while, but whould wake up easily and imediately continue copying. It also slept all night and, again, woke up easily this morning and carried on where it had left off.
It's been totaly frozen for the last several hours.
I already had 90% of my data backed up but need to salvage the last few folders on the mac before laying it to rest.
What should I do?
Can I long press the power button to turn it off without making things worse?
Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

If it's completely frozen, unless you have remote access via SSH and can start a new session, there's only one thing you can do: restart it. You'll have to continue the copying from where you left off – Allan 7 hours ago


Apple Numbers use Actual date instead of formatted date I have a spreadsheet with a list of months as the columns with the value 1/1/2020, 2/1/2020, 3/1/2020, etc. The cell format has been set to January, February, March, etc.
When I attempt to use date for calculation, it uses the month name and not the date.
Example:
=SUMIFS($Amount,Date,">="&E1,Date,"<="&EOMONTH(E1,0))

E1 contains '03/01/2020', displays March, but it sums everything up to the end of March. If I change it to ">=03/01/2020" it works as expected.
Is there a way to force Apple Numbers to use the Actual value and not the formatted one? The documentation says it should be doing this, but it does not.

OK. I reproduced this. If you use CONCATENATE instead of & to combine the strings then things become a little clearer. You can click on CONCATENATE and see the intermediate results--in this case, you will find a SUMIF with CONCATENATE in the February column yields ">=February" so it is not surprising that the SUMIF produces an incorrect result.
So your supposition that Numbers is using the month name rather than the date is correct. If you put the T function around the date cell reference--i.e. CONCATENATE(">=",T(C$1))--then you get an empty string from the T function, which matches with the T documentation (i.e. if you give T a non-TEXT type it returns an empty string). So, the T sees row 1 as being a series of DATE/TIME types but the CONCATENATE/& sees it as a series of TEXT types.
I would consider this a Numbers bug (with CONCATENATE not recognizing date/time types). I seem to remember having done a similar thing in a prior release of Numbers and it worked as you desired so the bug may have been recently introduced. While we wait for a fix, let's see about a workaround.
I first tried DATEVALUE--i.e. CONCATENATE(">=",DATEVALUE(C$1))--but that yielded ">=2/1/2020"! I presume this is because DATEVALUE is seeing row 1 as a series of TEXT types just like CONCATENATE and when it sees February it assumes the day is 1 and the year is this year, hence 2/1/2020. I would consider this a variant on the first bug.
So we have to go the long way round. If you do this: CONCATENATE(">=",DATE(YEAR(C$1),MONTH(C$1),DAY(C$1))) you will correctly get ">=2/1/2021" and SUMIF produces the correct results.
Interesting problem.

Is E1 really a date? When you copy in data from external sources sometimes dates can paste in as characters.


Cycle through spaces in Mavericks On Snow Leopard you could "jump" from the last space to the first space by hitting cmd+right arrow.

How to do this in Mavericks?

I haven't tried it, but the app TotalSpaces2 seems to provide this feature:

https://totalspaces.binaryage.com/navigation2

Caveat:

In newer versions of macOS they require you to disable SIP when installing.

To accommodate for not cycling anymore, you can enter a command for Switch to Desktop 1, i.e. ⌘+shift+→.


Use MacBook Pro as second monitor for iMac? Is it possible to use a MacBook Pro as a second monitor for my iMac? Both of them have a Thunderbolt port.

If not, is there any other way?

You can not use your MacBook Pro as a second monitor for your iMac without additional software.

ScreenRecycler claims to allow you to expand your desktop across multiple computers.

As an alternative approach, Synergy (previously open source at synergy-foss.org) claims to lets you combine multiple computers into one. It will let you use both computers from a single keyboard and mouse.

Apple Target Display (Thunderbolt method)

Make sure both computers are turned on and awake.
Connect a male-to-male Mini DisplayPort or ThunderBolt cable to each computer.
Press Command-F2 on the keyboard of the iMac being used as a display to enable TDM.

Check this link before:
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204592


How to expand windows fully? When I click the green plus icon in any window, I would like it to expand to the full size of my monitor, instead of having to drag the corner of the screen.

I have seen paid ($10+) tools that do this.

Is there some sort of Terminal hack or free program that would do it?

In OS X Yosemite, just click the green plus (+) icon while holding Shift (⇧) + Option (⌥) keys.

Or double click on the window's title bar while holding Shift(⇧) key (this won't work if System Preferences > Dock > Double-click a window's title bar to minimize is checked).

UPDATE

Here are proofs for those who voted down my answer before even trying if it works:

http://www.raymondcamden.com/2015/03/22/osx-yosemite-tip-maximizing-windows

  If you Google for this, you’ll see lots of people recommending holding
  alt-shift before clicking the green button.

Make the green full screen window icon on Yosemite maximize windows

  In order to maximize the window so that it fills the visible window
  content, use:

  ⌥ + Click on green icon

  In order to maximize the window both in width and height to the
  current desktop for applications like Google Chrome use:

  ⌥ + ⇧ + Click on green icon

How to change the default behaviour of the fullscreen/maximize button?

  ...by doing:

  ⌥ + ⇧ + Click on green or outer right icon (plus
  icon)

  I can maximize a window in both width and height to the current
  screen.

I tried it and it works on my MacBook Pro 13" Retina with Mac OS X Yosemite.

SUMMARY

There is no need to buy or hack something to do the following things:

Fullscreen mode: click on green icon
Resize window to it's content: ⌥ + click on green icon
Maximize window to screen size: ⌥ + ⇧ + click on green icon

On 10.9.5, option-click on the green button in the top left.


macOS catalina no longer sends email if job outputs to stdout After upgrade to macOS Catalina 10.15, I no longer receive emails from crontab jobs. Sometimes it's desirable, but in most cases I need to see these errors, so I could act on failures.

I know I can add to | /usr/bin/mail -s "crontab job" user@email.com to cron job to restore this functionality, but it's a hard way.

Adding crontab to Full Disk Access -- did not help, but realistically it shouldn't have.

Did someone managed to fix this odd behavior?

This issue was resolved with the macOS 10.15.4 update released in March 2020.

After upgrade to 10.15.4, I started to receive emails from cron jobs I configured. Note, you have to set

MAILFROM and MAILTO environmental variables in cron in order to receive these emails.

Example:

MAILFROM=imac@home.domain.com
MAILTO=myuser@gmail.com

...

* * * * * sample_job

You need to put the full paths of each program in and not just crontab as a string.

rsync in cron on Catalina no longer working

In your case

/usr/bin/mail
/usr/sbin/cron

Post a screen shot of your exact list if you think you might not have the paths correct or if I made a typo so we can work on an edit to this to fix your issue.


Restoring Lion/iCloud iCal from Time Machine Well I managed to delete my calendar, which was being synched via iCloud with my Mac, iPad, and iPhone.

Can I repopulate my iCal calendar from a Time Machine backup?  ~/Library/ contains a folder called Calendars, but its contents look complicated and I don't dare simply restore the Calendars folder from yesterday's Time Machine backup.

Thanks.

From what I can tell, Time Machine doesn't allow you to restore iCal calendars through the iCal app. And actually, you should be able to restore that calendars folder.

While the directory contents are complicated, iCal should translate them back to what you had before. The only other thing I would bring over just to be on the safe side is your iCal's list file, located in ~/Library/Preferences. It should be called com.apple.iCal.plist. I would recommend moving this from your Time Machine backup to the same directory on your Mac.

That should do it for you.

These answers are all okay and I eventually got the first answer (from Matt Love) to work BUT ONLY AFTER I found that the Library Folder referred to is invisible on the desktop. This had kept me baffled and angry for an hour. You can't find it - either on your Boot Volume or on Time Machine - unless you search for "Calendars" and select the right one. Then, on the desktop you can force Library to reveal itself by selecting "Open enclosing folder". In Time Machine you search for "Calendars" and get a whole heap of items, you just have to keep checking inside each one until you find one that looks something like the old one you've already inspected on the desktop (and, yes, it does look confusing inside!). Time Machine hung repeatedly while I was doing this, which made me even happier! But finally I just restored "Calendars" and it worked. I didn't need to do the extra copying of plist files. This was on a MacBook Core2Duo 2GHz 3G/500G OS10.7.5


Command+right/left stopped working On a couple occasions since I installed Lion, the keyboard shortcuts ⌘+→ and ⌘+← have stopped working to navigate to the beginning/end of a line inside text fields and such.  Any ideas what's going on?

Notes:

My computer doesn't beep when I hit these shortcuts.
Keyboard Viewer shows that when I hold down ⌘, pressing left/right doesn't do anything.
When I hold down both ⌘ and ⇧, the arrow keys work fine.
The left and right arrow keys still work by themselves.
⌘+↑ and ⌘+↓, and ⌥+arrows still work.
⌃+A and ⌃+E still work.
I don't have any particularly weird custom keyboard shortcuts set up.
If it matters, I use 4-finger swipes and ⌃+arrows for switching desktops, two- and three-finger swipes for navigation, and three-finger swipes for Mission Control & App Exposé.

No need to restart, these steps helped me:

Swipe 4 fingers up to show Mission Control
Select a full-screen app in the list of desktops
Swipe 4 fingers up to show Mission Control again
Select a text editor app on the main Desktop

I've experienced the same problem since upgrading to Lion and found that it works ok again after a system restart.


How can I combine multiple PDFs using the command line? Is there a quick one-liner to combine multiple pdfs into one?

I know it can be done using Preview.app

Have a look at "Combining PDF files on the command line in OSX" in Joining PDF Files in OS X From the Command Line.

  It turns out that from Tiger onwards, OSX ships with a Python script
  that does exactly what you need. The script is already executable, and
  Python is pre-installed on OS X, so all you need to do to run it is
  opening the Terminal and typing

"/System/Library/Automator/Combine PDF Pages.action/Contents/Resources/join.py" -o PATH/TO/YOUR/MERGED/FILE.pdf /PATH/TO/ORIGINAL/1.pdf /PATH/TO/ANOTHER/2.pdf /PATH/TO/A/WHOLE/DIR/*.pdf

Also on the linked page it suggests making a symbolic link for the join.py file to make typing easier however they omitted the -s in ln -s ... ..., and without it, a hard link is created.  Probably wouldn't matter, however though I'd mention it.

brew cask install combine-pdfs

This is GUI app, but it support merge many pdf's very powerful


iPhone 5s Keeps Crashing to Safe Mode My iPhone is jailbroken and it keeps crashing to safe mode randomly.

I have two pastebins of crashlogs. Here's crash 1 and here's crash 2.

And here is a list of my jailbreak tweaks.

Packages

3x4 Centered (No Icon Labels) Iconoclasm Layout - 1.0

4x3 (iPhone 5) Iconoclasm Layouts - 1.0

4x5 Dense Layout for Iconoclasm - 1.0

7-zip (POSIX) - 4.57-3p

Activator - 1.8.4~beta6

adv-cmds - 119-5

animate - 1.0.1-1

Animate fix for iOS 7.x.x - 1.0

Animer7 - 1.0

AppInfo - 1.6

AppList - 1.5.7

Applocker - 2.2.5

APR (/usr/lib) - 1.3.3-2

APT 0.6 Transitional - 1:0-23

APT 0.7 (apt-key) - 0.7.25.3-3

APT 0.7 HTTPS Method - 0.7.25.3-3

APT 0.7 Strict - 0.7.25.3-6

APT 0.7 Strict (lib) - 0.7.25.3-11

AutoPause - 1.0

Base Structure - 1-4

BaSic-AdBlocker7 - 1.0.2

BatteryLife - 1.3.1

Berkeley DB - 4.6.21-4p

BigBoss Icon Set - 1.0

BioCentered HD - 1

biteSMS - 8.1.3

Bolt - 0.7.0

Bourne-Again SHell - 4.0.17-13

BytaFont 2 - 2.1.3

bzip2 - 1.0.5-7

CameraTweak 2 (iOS 7) - 1.0.1

CleverPin - 1.8-3

ColorBadges - 1.0.3-2

ColorFlow - 1.0.5-1

Coono - 1.1-4P

Core Utilities - 8.12-12p

Core Utilities (/bin) - 8.12-7p

Crash Reporter - 0.2g-1

cURL - 7.33.0-8

customLS - 1.2-1

Cycript - 0.9.501

Cydget - 0.9.4011

Cydia Installer - 1.1.9

Cydia Substrate - 0.9.5001

Cydia Translations - 1.1.8.1

Cylinder - 0.13.2.15

Darwin Tools - 1-4

Debian Packager - 1.14.25-9

Debian Utilities - 3.3.3ubuntu1-1p

Diff Utilities - 2.8.1-6

Disable Parallax Effect - 1.3-1

diskdev-cmds - 421.7-4

DockShift - 1.4-2

Eclipse - 1.1.3-3

evasi0n 7.x Untether - 0.3

Exigency - 1.1.1

f.lux - 0.986

f.lux Flipswitch - 0.2-1

file-cmds - 220.7-3

Find Utilities - 4.2.33-6

FlagPaint7 - 1.0

Flex 2 - 1.928

FlipControlCenter - 1.0

Flipswitch - 1.0.3

GIFViewer - 1.0-1

GNU Privacy Guard - 1.4.16-1

grep - 2.5.4-3

GridSwitcher - 1.0-2

gzip - 1.6-7

HASHBANG Productions Common - 1.0

Hattori Hanzo Font - 1.0

HomeLock - 1.2

iCleaner Pro - 7.1.3-1

IconBundles - 0.1-3

Iconoclasm - 1.9.1

IconSupport - 1.9.2-1

iFile - 2.0.1-1

iOS 7 Blank Keypad - 0.0.2

iOS Firmware - 7.0.6

iPhone Firmware (/sbin) - 0-1

iTunes Radio Unlimited - 1.1.0

Lato Light Font - 1.2

libhide - 2.4.1-1

libstatusbar - 0.9.7.0

LockSafety - 1.0-1

lscameragrabber - 1.1

LZMA Utils - 4.32.7-4

MessagesCustomiser - 2.3.4-2

NCAllOnly - 2.2-1

NCSingleTapClear - 1.0-2

New Curses - 5.7-13

Nitrous - 2.4-5

No Yahoo! - 1.0-1

NoAnnoyance - 0.2.0~beta4-1

NoDelay64 - 1.1-2

NoSlowAnimations - 3.0.1-3

NoStoreButton7 - 1.0-2

OpenSSH - 6.5p1-2

OpenSSL - 0.9.8y-10

PAM (Apple) - 32.1-3

PAM Modules - 36.1-4

pcre - 8.30-5p

Phantom - 2.6.3-1

Photo Blackground - 1.0-8

PhotoTorch - 1.3-7

pincrush - 0.9.2-1

PowerSoundDisabler - 1.1.1-6

PreferenceLoader - 2.2.2

PreferenceOrganizer 2 - 1.0-2

Profile Directory - 0-2

Pulse - 1.0-1

readline - 6.0-7

RocketBootstrap - 1.0.1

SameStatus - 1.0-1

SandCastle 2 - 2.2-1

sed - 4.1.5-7

shell-cmds - 118-6

Show Notification Dates - 1.0-2

ShowCase - 1.3.4.1-1

Shrink - 1.0.7.0

SlideForUsage - 0.0.4

Springtomize 3 - iOS 7 - 1.1.0-2

SSH Switch - 1.2

StatusBarFix2 - 0.1.2-1

StatusHUD 2 - 2.0.0

StatusModifier - 2.0.1

StoreAlert - 1.0-2

Substrate Safe Mode - 0.9.4000

Subtle7 - 0.1

SwipeSelection - 1.4.1-1

SwitchSpring - 1.0.1

syslogd to /var/log/syslog - 1.0.2586-2

system-cmds - 433.4-12

Tape Archive - 1.19-8

TinyBar - 0.0.4-1

UIKit Tools - 1.1.8

Ultimate M'Flat Icon Collection - 1.7

Uniformity - 0.0.1~beta4-1

unrar - 3.6.8-2p

unzip - 5.52-5p

WiFi Booster - 2.0

WinterBoard - 0.9.3915

YouTubed - 1.2-2

Zanilla - 2.1.1

zip - 2.32-5p

Sorry I can only post 2 links since I'm a new member. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much for looking!

Use Crash Reporter.

Crash Reporter will attempt to guess the cause of a crash. After installing, next time your iPhone crashes, you can check the 'Possible Causes' list in Crash Reporter for its guess on the cause. You can then try to delete the package in Cydia and see if that fixes the problem.

Just remove this tweak (StatusHUD 2 - 2.0.0)


MacBook force click as secondary click Is there a way I can use the force click on my MacBook trackpad as a right click (secondary click)?

Apps can't override a single finger force click, since that always produces a left click action.
Using two fingers, you may as well use the standard two finger tap/click for secondary click.

The BetterTouchTool, as mentioned here, cannot replace the force click per se, but offers you some alternatives, such as "2 finger force click".


Google Chrome won't open URL files by double click I recently tried to open a URL link I saved onto my desktop by double clicking it, but it will not open correctly. If I DRAG & DROP the file into chrome works fine.

The code of the file is as follows:

[InternetShortcut]
URL=https://www.textnow.com/login

the file is saved with a ".url" extension

If I double click on the file I'm prompted by finder to choose which application to open it with (Chrome is greyed out, but I choose 'All Applications' and then choose Chrome), it will then simply load a page in Chrome and display the code on the page, instead of opening the url specified in the code.

running Version 50.0.2661.94 (64-bit) on OSX 10.9.5

This is a known issue with Google Chrome. See:Chrome doesn't recognise .url files properly

The workaround it to use an Extension such as .URL Handler

Once installed you need to go to Chrome > Preferences... > Extensions (chrome://extensions/) and check the [✔] Allow access to file URLs check box.

Although this is problem for BROWSER (not Apple) I will add solution for Windows too:

Open Start>Settings>System>Default apps and check that Google Chrome is chosen under Web Browser. Also open up Choose default apps by file type, scroll down to .url file and choose "Internet Browser"  next to it.


Is there a hook for triggering scripts when a particular notification is displayed? I'm trying to set up some system behaviors to occur when particular iCal or GCal events begin and end. Is there a way to hook into the notifications system (e.g., via a LaunchAgent) to make the Mac run a script when a particular notification fires?

Note that I'm not asking about triggering a notification from a script, but rather the other way around.

In calendar.app you’re able to set a file to run instead of an alert. Try creating an Automator file, and select the calendar type


How can I force HomeKit to send me a SMS/Notification alert (or email) if the basement floods? I use HomeKit to simplify home management for the elderly.  One of the things I want to address is the failure of a sump-pump, or flooding condition.

Is there a way I can cause a HomeKit sensor to cause this notification?

It depends on the manufacturer of the sensor you're using. If it supports HomeKit notifications, you can set them by pressing on the device's icon in the Home app.

Apple says if you set up HomeKit on an Apple TV or an iPad that always at home, it acts as a intermediate and lets you keep updated from your iPhone even when you are not at home. Notifications include. Theoretically, it also covers flood sensing.


What are the blue dots next to App names in iOS and macOS? They disappear once you open the apps and then return to the home screen, but I can't tell what they indicate.

Are they apps that haven't been opened since an app update? Or that it thinks have never been opened (not accurate in my case, but that could be a function of a "restore" confusing the phone).

The blue dot is the replacement to the banner that iOS 6 had for a new app.

There are two conditions for a banner being shown:

an app has been downloaded from the App Store but has not been opened yet

(a restore from iTunes/iCloud will also cause an app to be classed as 'New')
an app has been updated but has not been opened since it has been updated

(this counts for manually updated apps or apps that have been automatically updated by iOS 7's new background app updater).

As soon as the app is opened, the dot is removed.

that means they are new. as in "unopened since last update"


Is it possible to tune OS X so it will execute exe files without having to prefix the command line with wine? I'm writing cross-platform scripts that are executing utilities and some of them are windows executables.

I would like to find a solution that would not require me to prepend the command line with wine when I run from OS X.

I know that on Windows it is possible to define executable files based on file extension but I would like to know if this is possible to do on OS X and how.

I am open to suggestions ;)

How about setting all .exe files to "open with" wine?

have you tried "chown -x" on the files, that should set it to executable.  Works with Ruby & Python scripts, should in theory work with exe.


2nd hand mac purchased, can't load os x Firstly to let you know I am a mac dummy/newbie and I'm hoping
to get some advice on a 2nd hand mac I purchased on ebay
(while I wait the 3 weeks for my appointment at my local Genius Bar.)
20inch (Mid 2007) - From googling I think it shipped with Tiger os ?
I can't seem to load/reinstall the operating system.
Every time I start it up I get taken to OS X Utilities(Recovery?) for Mountain Lion.
If I select reinstall OS X I can't get past the appleid/password prompt
(I'm entering my details but I think I need the appleid of the previous owner as he was the one who upgraded to mountain lion??) This is not possible
I don't have original installation discs either.
Do I have any other options or have I bought a large and expensive paperweight(joke).
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks

Buy an older version of OSX on CD

How to install Mac OS X without OS X Recovery or the DVD that came with the Mac?

or

Install Linux on your Mac

http://www.macworld.co.uk/how-to/mac/how-install-linux-on-mac-3637265/

(excerpt)

"Here's how to go about installing Linux on a Mac"

Download your Linux distribution to the Mac. We recommend Ubuntu 16.04.4 LTS if this is your first Linux install. Save the file to your Downloads folder.

Download and install an app called Etcher from Etcher.io. This will be used to copy the Linux install .ISO file to your USB drive.

Open Etcher and click the Settings icon in the top-right. Place a tick in Unsafe Mode and click Yes, Continue. Then Click Back.

Click Select Image. Choose ubuntu-16.04.1-desktop-amd64.iso (or the image you downloaded in Step 1).

Insert your USB Thumb Drive. A reminder that the US Flash drive will be erased during this installation process. Make sure you've got nothing you want on it.

Click Change under Select Drive. Look carefully and pick the drive that matches your USB Thumb Drive in size. It should be  /dev/disk1 if you only have a single hard drive in your Mac. Or /dev/disk2, /dev/disk3 and so on (if you have more drives attached). Do not pick /dev/disk0. That's your hard drive. Pick /dev/disk0 and you'll wipe your macOS hard drive You've been warned!

Click Flash! Wait for the iso file to be copied to the USB Flash Drive.
Remove the USB Flash Drive from your Mac.

Shut down the Mac you want to install Linux on and attach the USB stick.
Power up the Mac while holding down the Option key.

Choose the EFI Boot option from the startup screen and press Return.
You will see a black and white screen with options to Try Ubuntu and Install Ubuntu. Don't choose either yet, press "e" to edit the boot entry.
Edit the line that begins with Linux and place the word "nomodeset" after "quiet splash". The whole line should read: "linux /casper/vmlinuz.efi            file=/cdrom/preseed/ubuntu.seed boot=casper quiet splash nomodeset --. (See screenshot, below.)

Press F10.

Ubuntu boots into trial mode.

Double-click the icon marked "Install Ubuntu".

Select English and choose Continue.

Select "Install this third-party software" option and click Continue.

Click Yes to the /dev/sdb alert.

Select "Erase disk and install Ubuntu" and click Continue.

Ensure that Select Drive is displaying the main hard drive. Click Install Now. Click Continue in the alert window.

Select your location on the map and click Continue.

Choosing your keyboard layout and click Continue.

Enter the name and password you want to use.

Click Continue and Linux will begin installing.


Scrolling to the bottom of 500 emails Is there an easy way to scroll up and down in the left hand pane in e-mail?
I have my ipad set to display 500 emails and its a pain to get from an email at the bottom of the list to one back at the top again.
There is an indicator bar that goes up and down as you scroll but you don't seem to be able to drag it. Please help.

A fast way to get back to the top from anywhere in the list is to tap the status bar above the list. This works in many places throughout iOS, like Safari, Notes, etc.

The only fast way to the bottom, though, is to swipe as fast as you can!

Just tap above the where inbox is written and you will be taken to the top


How do I update my jailbroken Apple TV to 5.3? I have a jailbroken Apple TV (black), which has firecore's aTV flash black installed.

How do I get it to update to the latest ios so I can use HBOGo?

Settings > General > Update just says "You are up to date", yet it's on version 5.0.2.

aTV flash updated to 2.3 without issue.

If you are doing over the air(thru apple tv) update, you may have installed a hack that disables automatic updates so you won't lose the jailbreak.
Connect to your computer and do a DFU update or uninstall the hack that disables the update from within apple tv/nito or where ever it's installed and try updating again. Although I recommend DFU upgrade.

Try the manual update listed here: http://www.appletv3jailbreak.com/2013/07/firecore-updates-atv-flash-black-for.html


Any way to turn on the reduced power mode a macbook uses under battery power, but while plugged into a power adapter? I have an external battery rigged up for my MBP.  It goes through the magsafe adapter.   The battery is about twice the capacity of the internal battery.

The problem is, the macbook thinks it is plugged into AC, so undoubtedly the CPU is in full power mode.   It will gobble this big battery in under an hour.

I do have graphics set to integrated mode.

Unfortunately, there is no direct way to force OS X to use battery-power mode (here, here and here). OS X uses Intel Speedstep which changes the P-state of the processor depending on the computer's power status (AC/battery).

AFAIK, the only thing you can do is set your AC mode power management settings to the same as battery mode. Using pmset, you can see and set the power settings that your Mac uses for AC and battery scenarios. Below is an example:

$ pmset -g custom
Battery Power:
 lidwake              1
 autopoweroff         1
 autopoweroffdelay    14400
 standbydelay         10800
 standby              1
 ttyskeepawake        1
 hibernatemode        3
 powernap             1
 hibernatefile        /var/vm/sleepimage
 displaysleep         40
 sleep                40
 acwake               0
 halfdim              1
 lessbright           0
 disksleep            10
AC Power:
 lidwake              1
 autopoweroff         1
 autopoweroffdelay    14400
 standbydelay         10800
 standby              1
 ttyskeepawake        1
 hibernatemode        3
 powernap             1
 hibernatefile        /var/vm/sleepimage
 womp                 1
 displaysleep         180
 networkoversleep     0
 sleep                0
 acwake               0
 halfdim              1
 disksleep            10

A brief run-through of the command:

pmset: pmset
-g: get settings
custom: displays custom settings for all power sources

To equalise your AC power settings with your battery consumption settings, you can use the following command:

pmset -g custom | xargs | cut -f1 -d'A' | cut -f2 -d':' | xargs sudo pmset -c

A brief run-through of the command:

pmset -g custom: see above
xargs: converts entire output to one line
cut -f1 -d'A': removes output following "A" of "AC Power:"
cut -f2 -d':': removes output preceding ":" of "Battery Power"
(example output as of this stage)

 lidwake 1 autopoweroff 1 autopoweroffdelay 14400 standbydelay 10800 standby 1 ttyskeepawake 1 hibernatemode 3 powernap 1 hibernatefile /var/vm/sleepimage displaysleep 40 sleep 40 acwake 0 halfdim 1 lessbright 0 disksleep 10

xargs pmset -c: passes the above argument line one by one to pmset

Now, the output of pmset -g custom looks like this:

$ pmset -g custom
Battery Power:
 lidwake              1
 autopoweroff         1
 autopoweroffdelay    14400
 standbydelay         10800
 standby              1
 ttyskeepawake        1
 hibernatemode        3
 powernap             1
 hibernatefile        /var/vm/sleepimage
 displaysleep         40
 sleep                40
 acwake               0
 halfdim              1
 lessbright           0
 disksleep            10
AC Power:
 lidwake              1
 autopoweroff         1
 autopoweroffdelay    14400
 standbydelay         10800
 standby              1
 ttyskeepawake        1
 hibernatemode        3
 powernap             1
 hibernatefile        /var/vm/sleepimage
 womp                 1
 displaysleep         40
 networkoversleep     0
 sleep                40
 acwake               0
 halfdim              1
 disksleep            10

Note that for similar properties that had different properties (i.e. displaysleep, which had 40 on battery and 180 on AC), they are now the same.

It is advisable to keep a backup of the original AC power settings in case you would like to revert. As follows, you can generate a string that you can use to reset your AC power settings with the following command:

pmset -g custom | xargs | cut -f2 -d'A' | cut -f2 -d':'

The difference between this command and the one above is that with this command, we are taking the value after AC power (aka original AC power settings). To reset your settings to your original settings, take the string generated by the above command and pipe it through xargs to pmset -a:

echo "[string generated by above command]" | xargs pmset -a

I would also advise following @gentmatt's tips in this answer to decrease power consumption.

One option is to increase the niceness of the main CPU consuming processes. You can find these processes in the Activity Monitor or in the Terminal with this command:

top -u

If you find out that a process with pid P is the most CPU consuming one, then you can increase the niceness of that with this command in the Terminal:

sudo renice -n +10 P


Reduce file size of pdf text file scanned with app I had scanned 11 sites of a document in black and white and exports it as an pdf file. With two different known apps I got a file size of about 8MB. I tried different solutions with ColorSync filter or ghostScript commands but the pdf size does not shrink noticeable.

With scans from a printer I got pdf files with about 10 percent of that size without loss of quality. Does anyone knows how to reduce a large pdf file?

You can use sites like Compress FDF (https://smallpdf.com/compress-pdf), PDF Compressor (https://pdfcompressor.com/), or Compress PDF online (https://www.ilovepdf.com/compress_pdf). Remember, google is always there for you.


Sites blocked in /etc/hosts often doesn't work I'm using a Macbook Pro as a productivity/work machine and have Facebook and reddit blocked with /etc/hosts:

##
# Host Database
#
# localhost is used to configure the loopback interface
# when the system is booting.  Do not change this entry.
##
127.0.0.1       localhost
255.255.255.255 broadcasthost
::1             localhost
fe80::1%lo0     localhost
0.0.0.0         facebook.com
::0             facebook.com
0.0.0.0         reddit.com
::0             reddit.com

This has worked for a while in all browsers, but recently stopped working in Firefox and Safari, and I can't figure out why. I was previously using 127.0.0.1, but when that stopped working I tried 0.0.0.0 instead, no dice.

I did install Avast just recently so I thought that could have been the problem, what with its web security features, but I uninstalled the browser add-on in Safari and Firefox and I was still able to access Facebook and reddit just fine.

And I just tried uninstalling the add-ons again, and restarted the computer. Now, Google Chrome can access Facebook, but not reddit. Firefox can't access either, and Safari can access both...

I'm using OS X 10.7.5.

I solved my problem. It seems I need to block both the domain website.com and the address www.website.com. I didn't know that was necessary. I edited them in there and now the blocking is consistently working everywhere.

The following site clearly explains how to block a site step by step using hosts on etc by means of terminal:
wikiHow-Block a Website on Mac


Text Stuck in Message Field Using an iPhone 4 and within Messages, a previously sent message text is stuck within the text box!

Whenever I open a new message window, the text box shows with the old message text pre-populated within it and I have to delete the text and then type out my message.

Even for SMS replies, the message field shows the old text always and I am having to delete it manually in order to type a new one.

This is happening with iMessage ON and OFF and I have restarted the phone as well as reset it from an iTunes backup but still the issue persists.

Is there away way I can erase the text permanently so that I get a blank message field when I send a new sms?

Had a similar "stuck in message" problem. Powering off/powering on fixed the issue....


Uploading photos to Icloud and deleting on the Computer I started to upload my photos from Macbook to Icloud in hopes that I could delete from the Macbook to free up some space. Then I find that if I delete from Macbook, they delete from iCloud.

How can I delete locally nad have iCloud store all the photos?

Think of the iCloud library as one library that exist in the cloud. Setting aside the moment between when you turn it on and when all of the photos are uploaded for just a moment, each of your devices will have some mail of every image in the library as well as a larger version of the file.

On a device per device basis you can request the original sized file or let the system shrink, compress, optimize when storage runs low.

This design works well for people that just want to have one library and not several versions of the library.  The point of iCloud photo library is if you have a 50 GB library total, you'll still end up with the same number of photos on each device even if the entire library size is 10 GB on an iPhone 30 GB on an iPad and 20 GB on your Mac.

The compression only kicks in once your space gets low  on a specific device. I believe there are several settings of compression so that as you begin to fill up your storage with things other than the photo library, the images can continue to shrink up to the point where you have nothing left but thumbnails, presumably.

Back up your photos and videos
When you turn on iCloud Photos, your photos and videos automatically upload to iCloud. They're not duplicated in your iCloud backup, so you should keep backup copies of your library. You can download your photos and videos from iCloud.com to your computer and store them as a separate library, transfer them to another computer with Image Capture or Photos, or store them on a separate drive.
If you're on a device with iOS 11 or later or macOS High Sierra or later, the photos and videos you take are in HEIF and HEVC format. These formats use less storage, with the same quality.
icloud photos


What happens when the kernel_task is killed? What happens when you kill kernel_task on OS X? Is that even possible? I know that the system reboots because of kernel panic when you kill launchd, but I can't find any resources online and am afraid of trying to kill kernel_task.

You can't properly kill kernel_task. Activity Monitor doesn't allow you to kill kernel_task at all - neither as admin nor as root.

If you try to outwit kernel_task by using kill -9 0 or /bin/kill -9 0 as root you just kill yourself i.e. the first command kills bash (kill is an integrated command of bash) and the second command kills /bin/kill because in both cases the 0 is interpreted as me/yourself and not as kernel_task.

The man page for the system call kill (which is called by both kill and /bin/kill) explains that

If pid is zero:
    Sig is sent to all processes whose group ID is equal to the process group ID of
    the sender, and for which the process has permission; this is a variant of
    killpg(2).

This makes it basically impossible to even attempt to kill the process with PID 0.

u CANT kill it cause its the kernel wich is basicley the core of a operating system wich also starts all applications and drivers and killing it wuld be the same as trying to remove ur whole body form your body its imposible cause u trying to remove something form itself wich is  as imposible as gooing quicker then the speed of light while running
compare it to trying to remove the apple of a apple with the same apple exept if it changes into a blackhole it cant disapear and since the blackhole is the apple its still not gone only way to kill kernel_task is by a manual overide of its data wich CRASHES IF EVEN ATTEMPTED CAUSE OF U ATTEMPTING TO REACH TO KERNEL SPACE AND WRITING OVER THE MOST IMPORTAND APPLICATION OF THE OS


Why is iOS unable to find my apps? Since updating to iOS 11, search is unable to find my apps. Is this a new feature of iOS 11; a bug; or something that will eventually resolve itself over time?

I have so many apps that the only practical way to find them is to search for them, and in the past this has worked perfectly. E.g. simply typing "stack" (in fact just "st") suggests several apps including the one I'm looking for, 'Stack Exchange' listed right at the top of the screen.

Now however I get a very different result:

A bunch of useless search results at the top, and a suggestion from the app store for an app I'd never want. No sign of the frequently used app sitting right on my device.

What's going on here. Is there anything (short of restoring iOS 10) that I can do do address this?

Judging from the behavior I'm seeing I wonder if Apple hasn't changed the meaning of the Siri setting for apps from meaning "search in the app" to "search for the app": the only apps I see at all are ones where this setting is enabled. Is that perhaps what's happened (or does having this on just get those apps indexed first)?

If you are unable to search for apps you could once find, check your settings to see what apps you prevented Search from searching within.

Apple recently changed the behavior of the relevant setting (Siri & Search). Prior to iOS 11 disabling this setting for an app prevented Search from showing results from "inside" the app (e.g. Dropbox listing files). With iOS 11 this behavior has changed: now this setting must be enabled for the app itself to appear in Search results at all.

Note that while this appeared to have been "fixed" in the betas of 11.2 with a new explicit option, "Show App" to search for the app, this seems to have been released (in 11.2.1) as "Suggestions in Look Up" which doesn't achieve the same result.

The indexing (and over resource dependent calculations as image scanning) is only done when connected to a power source, as far as I know. Load your phone overnight and try again tomorrow.