Charge iPad 1 without wall charger I have only the USB cable so can I charge it with my laptop or computer or any other way?

You might get a small trickle-charge by connecting to a Windows laptop, better if you don't run the iPad whilst doing so, but only a Mac is capable of recognising & supplying the higher power requirement of an iPad.

Connected to any standard USB port on a PC, the device will claim it is not charging - though in practise it will eventually manage to charge it, it will be very slow.

Your best bet, if you don't own a Mac, is to buy a dedicated iPad charger.

Yes, plug it in your laptop/desktop and it will automatically charge your ipad.


How to Turn OFF Find My iPhone if I don't Know the ID & Password? It's a Pre-Owned Phone, I bought it from a Market Place.

Seller forgot to reset the iCloud Account, and I lost the Owner Contact details...

I've seen many Bypass Tricks Online, Nothing worked for me...

Finally My hope is here...

is there any experts here, Know How to Bypass the iCloud Lock to Turn OFF the Find My iPhone.

There's a good chance you bought a stolen iPhone. I'd bring it to an Apple Store or contact Apple support:

How to Contact Us - Apple

If it hasn't been reported as stolen, maybe they'll be able to help you.

I would not expect that anyone here knows the answer to this. Even if there was such an exploit, knowledge of it could make a person quite wealthy. You aren't going to find out about it on a web forum or Google search.


Apple TV play media stored on Airport Extreme hard drive? The current gen Airport Extreme (802.11ac, you know... the tall white one) is capable of having a network accessible hard drive connected directly to it. Now that the new Apple TV can run apps, can I use the Airport's connected hard drive as a media server and have the new Apple TV access its content directly? Maybe by running the Plex app (or similar)?

VLC should do the trick. I confirmed I can access the drive inside my Time Capsule using VLC on my Apple TV.

I imagine it will also access the files on a USB-connected drive. Not tested the latter though.

I'm using Infuse to play media from the Time Capsule and it is way better than the VLC.


10.7: managing SMTP (outgoing) server for multiple POP email accounts on the same mail server Folks:

re:   mail.app  5.2 (MacOS 10.7.4), possibly similar for earlier versions

I'm struggling to understand how to establish and maintain multiple simple POP, non-SSL email accounts on the same mail server.  Say, I have two accounts for which the hosting service control panel gives these manual setup summaries:

  account: blue@example.com
  password:  [blue's password]
  outgoing server:  smtp.example.com, on port 98
  incoming server:  pop.example.com, on port 99

  account: green@example.com
  password:  [green's password]
  outgoing server:  smtp.example.com, on port 98
  incoming server:  pop.example.com, on port 99

I want to add these to mail.app.   No problem with establishing and maintaining the incoming account information.  But mail.app uses a non-parallel method for specifying the outgoing server, yes?   It wants you to enter the data for a multiply-used SMTP (outgoing) server once, then assign each parallel account to that server.   For the above accounts, I think success of this process is indicated by the SMTP Server List (as seen in edit-the SMTP-Server-List mode) showing:

          Server Name               In Use By Account
          -------------------               --------------------------------------------------------------------
          ...
          smtp.example.com      blue@example.com, green@example.com
          ...

(Leftmost "Description" column omitted.  The table display will likely be mangled in this posting;  you can possibly see it correctly by copying the above, pasting it into a new document in an editor, and setting a monospaced font.   I think the accounts are listed in order of establishment;  here "green" is the second account entered for this outgoing server.)

So far, so good?

Though the basic information about the outgoing server --the server name and port settings-- is the same for both accounts,  I think one must set --and later, maintain-- the account name and passwords individually for  each account, even though the common server information is the same.  These are not simply copied from the incoming values for the same account,yes?  (I do not recall seeing an email account in which these credentials differ for the incoming and outgoing servers, and I'm fairly sure some client apps automatically use the same for both.)

I cannot seem to find a method in mail.app's UI to set and later reach these unique settings.

Reference:   this thread gives the general method for adding the second account, but is not sufficiently specific, and refers to mail.app on MacOS10.6.

When I add the second outgoing account, selecting the common server from the Outgoing Mail Sever (SMTP):  pull-down gives me the information for the first account.   Am I supposed to over-write that information?  I don't think so -- correct me if I'm wrong.  I think mail.app should present me with empty boxes, indicating I can enter the new account name and password for the second account. But it doesn't.  (Maybe occasionally, it does, but I can't really figure out how this works.)

The same goes for later maintenance.  If the password for the "green" account changes, I need to make that change to both the incoming and outgoing server, (right?) but I don't see a method for persuading mail.app to show me the credentials for "green" so I can update the password for green's outgoing server.

How is done?   Am I missing something incredibly obvious?

Supplemental:  I noticed that I can run Connection Doctor and click on the rectangle of a failing ("red light") SMTP account to bring up the Edit SMTP window. Cool!  That would be a reasonable, though obscure, way of accessing the SMTP credentials following a password change for that account.   But the account selected in that window seems to have nothing at all to do with the failing server.  It looks like mail.app highlights a random SMTP account in the Edit SMTP window.

TIA

Update: I've now demonstrated this problem is broken navigation in mail.app.  That's sufficiently different to close the above question and start a new thread, which I've done:  10.7 mail.app preferences-->accounts navigation broken; how to fix?


Please share your hidden macOS features or tips and tricks Do you know any hidden or little-known nice feature of macOS (née Mac OS X)? It doesn't matter what it is—maybe just a short terminal command or a keyboard shortcut. Share your experiences on hidden Mac OS X features with us..

Please post one tip per answer. Please also check to see if your answer has already been posted - duplicate answers will be deleted. To search answers for this question use inquestion:400 (or inquestion:this, directly from the question page) in addition to your search terms in the search box in the upper right hand corner of this page.

Also provide details on how to achieve that feature, and if possible, include a relevant image too!

In any Finder window or Open/Save dialog, you can hit ⌘⇧G (just '/' also works in Open/Save) to get a location bar from which you can directly type in the directory to go to. It even supports ~ for home and tab completion.

The Open/Save dialog has several other useful shortcuts:

⌘  R -
Reveals the selected item in a new
Finder window.
⌘  I - Info window shows for the selected item.
⌘  ⇧  > - Shows/Hides hidden files in the dialog
⌘  F - cursor jumps to the Find text field
/ or ~ - Opens a Go To Folder dialogue.
⌘  D or ⌘  ⇧ D - selects the ~/Desktop folder as a destination
⌘  ⌥  L - selects ~/Downloads folder as a destination
⌘  ⇧ O - selects ~/Documents folder as a destination
⌘  ⌥  S - Shows/Hides sidebar
⌘  . or esc - Cancels and closes the dialog window

A handy tip I discovered by accident.

Highlight any file in an Open dialogue window, press the space bar and voila! there is your file in all it's glory.


How many devices can be associated with an Apple ID for Find my iPhone? We're in a process right now to register 100+ company-issued iPhones. Right now the process of creating an Apple ID for each iPhone to be used for Find my iPhone is very time consuming, so my manager is assuming we can use just one account to manage it all. He wants to know if this is possible, or how many iPhones can be registered with Find my iPhone using only one account.

I don't think there is any enforced limit for using one account on lots of devices if all you care to do is use Find My Phone. You will run into the 10 device limit if you try to install apps using this ID, but just entering it into iCloud and only turning on FMP (FMi / FMiP ??!) should scale past the limits people normally reach when using one ID for multiple devices.

Even if you get away with this, your users might get confused or wish to use Find My.../iCloud themselves and find you have locked their device

You might want to reach out to your Apple account rep to avoid running into several anti-fraud efforts that prevent this sort of mass scale deployment if you try to use one Apple ID for say the App Store on so many devices. In addition to that specifically being against the licensing terms, you will face delays if and when this account gets locked, so plan to test things out with a small group (say 3-8 devices sharing one ID) as a pilot before you decide how to manage all 100 devices.

There are quite a few MDM packages available, but without knowing your specific situation, it will be hard for you to determine if automating some of the management will be a good investment or if you can just use the Apple Configurator to set up your deices and depend on the end users to manage their Apple ID/iCloud accounts and not mess with your one set up to track all the devices.

Look at Apple Configurator; that may be what you need.


Best lightweight browser for OS X 10.4.11 iBook G4 I have an iBook G4 running OS X 10.4.11 and I really would like to watch youtube videos, but it is very choppy and generally impossible to watch!

I've read over this thread: http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=768766 and it suggests changing the power to Best Performance, turning off hardware acceleration, and upping the Flash cache size to 10MB, all of which I have done. I'm also downloading the iBook optimized Firefox 4.0 to try that out (though that seems a little outdated, seeing as the newest version is about 20 versions newer.)

Strangely enough, my system can play DVDs at full-screen with no problem whatsoever.

Does anyone know of any good, lightweight, web browsers (or alternatively, a way that I can get Youtube working within TenFourFox 24?)

Thanks!

EDIT:
Just a heads up, I was able to get 240p playing fine in OmniWeb. Version 5 I believe. It had occasional lag, but generally it was good. My internet isn't good enough to play anything about 360p, so I don't go above that, but I really would like to be able to use 360p instead of 240p, if possible. I think it's the quality of the video that is causing the lag, even though DVDs play at very good quality.

I also tried using the optimized version for iBook G4, but it said that it couldn't run on my system...annoying.

TenFourFox

A rewritten version of Firefox compiled to run great on older hardware.

  We take the industry standard Mozilla Firefox browser and rewrite it to be compatible with Mac OS X 10.4 and 10.5, then compile it specially optimized for your G3, G4 or G5, add AltiVecTM JPEG, HTML and WebM decoding acceleration for G4 and G5 Macintoshes, and soup up JavaScript performance with our best-in-class just-in-time PowerPC script compiler. One of our four versions is just right for your particular Power Mac. And we keep it current, secure, and ready to rock.

If you use safar and have it open tabs as a developer. You can view YouTube as if it's on an iPad. Forces QuickTime instead of flash.


Safari keeps losing connection I'm trying to download CentOS' ISO from a mirror, and the download fails all times (connection lost). It fails after downloading something like 3.5 GB out of 4.5 GB.
The problem is that every time that I click on the arrow in the downloads tab it restarts from the beginning. How do I restart a download and keep the piece that I have already downloaded?

If you are downloading large files like this on a connection that isn't reliable you're best bet is probably to use a command line tool like curl.

Open a Terminal window, change directory to wherever you want to download the file (for example cd ~/Desktop to save to your desktop). And then type the command curl -OC - http://isoredirect.centos.org/centos/7/isos/x86_64/CentOS-7-x86_64-DVD-1503-01.iso to download the CentOS ISO image (I just picked this URL for an example, use you own as you wish).

If the download gets part of the way and stalls or dies, you can just run the same command again and it should restart from the place it left off.

The O in the command tells curl to use the remote filename and the C - tells it to continue where it stopped previously.

Please note: servers have to be set up to allow downloads to start from random positions, so if you try this and it always starts from the very beginning it could be that the server doesn't support it.

Try using Google Crome or Mozilla Firefox as it may fix the problem, because my Mac's Safari doesn't work very well for downloads but Chrome downloads well.


Install Mavericks on Unsupported MacBook 4,1 I've spent the last 2 days trying to install Mavericks on my MacBook 4,1. It is from Early 2008. It is unsupported, but I would like to install Mavericks on it. Is there a workaround for bypassing the system check or just generally getting it to install?

I've tried:

SFOTT (found out it's for Macs that have 32-bit EFI and/or processors; I have 64-bit versions of both)
Making a plain USB installer by using DiskMaker X (fails at the prohibitary (⊘) symbol when booting)
Doing SFOTT on a partition on the internal HD (same result as SFOTT)

Oh, and if you need it, here are hardware specifications:

MacBook 4,1; Early 2008
2 GB 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM
160 GB internal HD
2.4 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Intel GMA X3100 144 MB
64-bit EFI and processor
Current OS is Mac OS X 10.7.2 (11C74)

And one more thing: I don't want to give up trying.

@Thinkling You were so close...I'm currently running Mavericks 10.9.5 on my Blackbook 4,1 Early 2008. Here's how:

Make a plain USB installer by using DiskMaker X, but after its complete, navigate on your new thumbdrive to: /System/Library/CoreServices/PlatformSupport.plist and completely delete that file.

Boot holding option key, select your thumbdrive, and install away.

Worth Noting:
I had to install the kext file for my graphics (Intel GMA X3100 144 MB) to work properly, and I'm still fighting a no sound issue, as well as machine not sleeping with lid closed. Other than that, I've got Messages working, and haven't had any other issues in the month i've had it installed....

it is mostly like the video speed or memory, i know there is a way to fake out the cpu speed in the open firmware that's how i install leopard on a old g3 lol

good luck


How does my just-booted and encrypted iPhone still receive messages before I decrypt it with the passcode? It's my understanding that personal data on the iPhone 6 is automatically encrypted with the user's passcode. This is why when you boot it for the first time the passcode is required instead of the fingerprint.

My question, however, is why after the first boot, before entering the passcode for the first time, does the iPhone continue to receive account-specific notifications? As an example, Google Hangouts will actively receives messages that are readable and on the lock screen before any decryption has taken place. Wouldn't this imply that the user data for apps somehow are not encrypted?

Probably because you didn't just reboot it. All you did was turn on the screen.

Once you enter the passcode, some but not all of the data remains accessible until you turn the phone (not just the screen) off. To turn the phone off, press and hold the power button for 5 seconds until a "Slide to turn off" slider appears, and slide it.


Disable Specific USB Ports / Restrict Data Transfer from USB Ports In a work environment, I'm trying to "lock down" a mac computer so that files can't be transferred via USB storage device.

Problem is, keybord and mouse are plugged in through USB, but I would still need those enabled, plus the keyboard has two more USB ports on either side.  I could use a bluetooth mouse and keyboard to get around that, but then how can I disable the USB ports (And later re-enable with admin access)?

Or is there a way to limit the amount of data sent to/from as USB port? A keyboard and mouse wouldn't use that much, so then anything every X bytes/sec would get blocked?  I'm not sure what the solution is here.

I think what you want to do is prevent the connection of USB Mass Storage Devices.

I found this answer which is untested by me and not terribly recent, but I can see that the referenced kext is still in the location described:

  a quote from the Leopard security configuration guide:

  48 Chapter 3 Protecting the System Through Hardware

  Removing USB Support Software

  Use the following instructions to remove USB mass storage device input/output support such as USB Flash drives and external USB hard drives.
  The removal of this kernel extension only affects USB mass storage devices. It does not
  affect other USB devices such as a USB printer, mouse, or keyboard. This task requires
  you to have administrator privileges.
  Important: Repeat these instructions every time a system update is installed.
  To remove kernel extensions for specific hardware:

  Open the /System/Library/Extensions folder.
  To remove support for USB mass storage devices, drag the following file to the Trash:
  IOUSBMassStorageClass.kext
  Open Terminal and enter the following command:
    $ sudo touch /System/Library/Extensions
  The touch command changes the modified date of the /System/Library/Extensions
  folder. When the folder has a new modified date, the Extension cache files
  (located in /System/Library/) are deleted and rebuilt by Mac OS X.
  Choose Finder > Secure Empty Trash to delete the file.
  Restart the system.

Source: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/2105022?start=0&tstart=0

Steve, there are several ways to achieve this goal. However if you need to do this operation on multiple computers, it can take a lot of time to configure them. And you also have to make sure nothing else is affected besides the USB Mass Storage Devices.
The easiest way to go would be to use a software solution to control the removable devices connected to the Macs in your network. This should be a server-client solution, so you can manage everything centrally. Another important aspect to take into consideration is to be able to set allow/deny access on a device quickly in case of an emergency. Enforcing these device policies on Macs where the users have admin rights is also important.
You can take a look at Endpoint Protector by CoSoSys, which is considered the market leader for Device Control on Macs, but it works also on Windows and Linux machines.


How do I troubleshoot my Wi-Fi connection when an exclamation mark appears? Sometimes, when I am in a public Wi-Fi an exclamation mark appears in the greyed out Wi-Fi icon.

I can connect to the Wi-Fi (I get assigned an IP address), but I cannot establish an internet connection - while other Mac users can. Every network where this has happened, I have been connected to before.

I've tried tried the following without success:

run the troubleshoot assistant
disconnect and reconnect from Wi-Fi
disable and reenable Wi-Fi
remove the network from the list of known networks
restart the computer

Because none of my attempts to solve this problem yielded any positive results, I always end up not using the internet at all.

Now my sister has been calling me two times already, telling me that the same problem occurred to her. As I could not provide a fix, I need your help :)

My sister is running 10.7.3 on a Macbook 4.1. I am running 10.7.3 on a MBP 8.2.

You need to get more information, so please do some troubleshooting and report back.

Troubleshooting steps:

Hold down the Option key while clicking on the Wi-Fi icon in the menu bar and let us know what you see. Lion: New Wi-Fi Diagnostics tool
When you first see the exclamation point appear, open
System Preferences > Network. If you get a window like this one

with the Self-Assigned IP beside a yellow button, then you were not able to get a local address from the Wi-Fi router's DHCP server. This can happen because the base station is using MAC address restrictions rather than real passwords. This can also happen because the base station has exhausted its available set of local IP address leases.

When you connect to a network using DHCP, a network router (e.g. the Wi-Fi access point) gives you an IP address to use and promises you can use it for some period of time, which is called a "lease". (This is so there is no confusion about when someone else can start using the IP address that you are using.  You either renew the lease or know you have to stop using that address and get a new one.)  Once the server leases you the IP address, it cannot give it to anyone else until your lease expires.  A typical home router might be set up with only 250 addresses to give out and a lease period of 24 hours.   That's fine at home, but in a heavily trafficked coffee shop, they might get more than 250 Wi-Fi using customers in a day, at which point they would be out of addresses.  Worse, lease times can be much longer (I've seen 14 days on some routers) and DHCP servers can have arbitrarily small numbers of addresses to hand out.  So this really happens sometimes, and it is probably what is happening to you.

In any case, it's probably a configuration error on the router that the router owner has to fix.

I guess it's a corrupt plist. I cannot reproduce the error, so I'm not sure it will help you out.

Try to delete /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/NetworkInterfaces.plist and restart your computer. Deleting this file and restarting is supposed to allow your system to "re-install" the correct drivers for your hardware.

Also, I can recommend you to reinstall the combo update.


OS X El Capitan Installer.app has crippled my Mac Mini Mac Mini (Mid-2011), 16GB SSD, 16GB RAM, El Capitan (v10.11.6)

The Mac ran fine until I upgraded to Sierra. The latest Mac OS conflicted with most of the specialized apps I use every day, So I immediately returned to El Capitan.

Activity monitor shows that two "Installer/Installer.app" items are always running and are they major users of all of my available memory. Consequently, all my others apps become unresponsive.  I run Disk Utility, and the Installer.app show up there as .dmg files; but I cannot erase, delete, or unmount them. None of my 3rd party app can remove the installers.

My Mac Mini, which should be running super-fast (as it used to), now runs dreadfully and disgustingly slow. I a truly upset with Apple for this kind of garbage. To get their help: $$$.

Double click the process in activity monitor and look for the Open Files tab.  This should give you an idea where the process is coming from

Try to force-quit the process in activity monitor.

Then try to delete the dmg files (make sure they are unmounted, right-click > unmount on the dmg).

Installer was eating up all my memory. The following worked for me.

Main menu:
GO
Go to Folder:  Copy and paste the following line:

~/Library/LaunchAgents

Delete anything that is in that folder.
Shut down.
Restart.


What happens when I close the lid on my MacBook Pro running OS X? I'm a new Mac user. What happens when I close the lid on my MacBook Pro running OS X Lion?

Is it sleeping? Or hibernating? Something else?

Short Answer
MacOSX uses Hybrid Sleep. When closing the lid, the desktop state is written to both RAM and disk.
Then, while the computer still has enough power for the RAM, it wakes from RAM (sleep). However, in case the power gets cut, the computer wakes from the disk (safe sleep).
Keep in mind, that the battery isn't actually at it's lowest charge when switching to safe sleep. It still keeps some charge left. Therefore, if you want to fully drain your battery, the computer must stay in safe sleep for several hours until the white led stops 'breathing'.
Long Answer
Here is an excerpt of the official Apple Documentation:
On all Macs:

The microprocessor goes into a low-power mode
Video output is turned off, and a connected display may turn off as well, or enter its own idle state
Apple-supplied hard disks spin down; third-party hard disks may spin down

On portable Macs:

The Ethernet port turns off, if applicable

Expansion card slots turn off

The built-in modem, if present, turns off

An AirPort card, if present, turns off

The USB connection only responds to the power key on an external keyboard

The optical media drive spins down

Audio input and output turns off

Keyboard illumination, if a feature of your portable computer, turns off

You don't do any harm to close the lid. In fact I never shut down my Mac, I always close the lid. It's fast, it's secure, just like Mike just told you.


Is there a decent way to display fotos from directories? I do not want to use the "Photos" app and the "Preview" app. The "Preview" app only displays one photo at a time (unless you select all of them with CMD-A). I am missing the Windows program where you simply doubleclick on the first pictures and navigate with arrow-right and arrow-left. Is there a program like this for Mac?

Two easy things come to mind:

QuickLook: Just press Space on the first photo and then use the cursor keys to navigate
CoverFlow: Press Cmd-4 to switch the Finder window into Coverflow mode and browse through your pictures. Setting the Finder window to fullscreen might help here


Homebrew and existent software in /usr/local Is it ok to install homebrew in default(for homebrew) deirectory /usr/local if I've already have installed software there.

In other words, if Mysql and GPGTool already installed in /usr/local and then I'll install homebrew also in /usr/local. Will it work correct or I should install homebrew in another directory.

P.S.: I know that homebrew has mysql but I need special version that already installed.

It would probably work ok to mix the two, but to be safe I'd just put homebrew in a different directory.  You might run into conflicting files, perhaps in some supporting library.

I don't know what's special about your mysql build, but i'm sure homebrew has options to build different flavors.  do "brew options mysql" to see what is available, perhaps it has what you need.


Why do ICNS files need to be perfect squares? im able to modify .app icons only when the dimensions are perfectly even (eg. 256x256) but not rectangular shapes.

this website allows for exporting png images as icns files in any dimension but they dont seem to work with .app's?

is it possible to modify an app to use a rectangular .icns?

No, that is not possible. macOS only supports square icons for this purpose.

The size must be either 16 × 16, 32 × 32, 48 × 48, 128 × 128, 256 × 256, 512 × 512, or 1024 × 1024.

Note that even though the physical dimensions of the icons must be square, it is possible to create the illusion of having a non-square icon by making parts of the icon transparent.

Contrary to @jksoegaard the method in the below video seems to work. He seems to be using a non-square shaped image and modifies the applet.icns before exporting it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6d44xD6f4c


Automator Service that opens URL from rich text I would like to make an Automator Service that will open any link in a different browser (i.e. Firefox) than default (Safari).

Precisely: I want to right click on any link in Mac OS and select a service that will open that link in a Firefox.

You can use the Automator action Extract URLs from Text.

Instead of using Automator to parse the text, use a Terminal (Bash) command to get the text you are looking for.

grep -o 'http://[^"]*' foobar.rtf

You can add this to Applescript

set varURL to do shell script "grep -o 'http://[^"]*' foobar.rtf"

The simpliest way to extract a URL and open a browser window to that URL is via Bash script:

#!/bin/bash

varURL=`grep -o 'http://[^"]*' ${1}`

open $varURL

I have a sample.rtf file that I used to test this.  It's basically are Lorem Ipsum generated file with a URL embedded randomly in the text.

When I run the script,

$ ./urlxtract.sh sample.rtf

it opens my default browser at the URL it found.  To open it in a different browser, just replace the open line in the script with the following:

open -a "Firefox.app" $varURL


Sierra Beta: External keyboard won't type "a" and types an "i" instead of "h" after several seconds of being plugged in This is driving me crazy and I think I've done all the obvious troubleshooting. Where might OSX be keeping keyboard-specific settings that would do this?

Here's what's happening:

When I plug in the keyboard to either USB port on my MBP, it works fine for about 3 seconds
Then, the "a" key stops working (no response), and when I press "h" it types an "i" instead
It works fine when I boot in Recovery Mode
It works fine on other computers
Different USB keyboard works fine on this computer

Of note:

I am running macOS Sierra 10.12.1 Beta (16B2333a)
I recently installed and removed Keyboard Maestro

EDIT: I updated my machine to the latest Beta and I also got this issue. I resolved it by going to:

Preferences -> Keyboard -> Modifier Keys...

And then "Restore Defaults".

This is a known issue in latest Beta.

I have met the same issue, you can fix this by install the latest Karabiner-Elements.


Alert sound on the hour, every hour (OSX and iOS) Both my Mac and iPhone (possibly my iPad, not sure) play an alert sound on the top of every hour (I believe -- certainly a few of the hours). I don't use notifications for anything (that I am aware of). How do I stop the sound?

The weirdest thing is that I can't find evidence of anyone else having problems with this.

You've checked the Announce time option in Clock tab in System Preferences -> Date & Time.

Uncheck it to silent your Mac. Regarding iPhone, there is no such option until and unless you've set the notifications for an app to behave like that.

Please check the image below for reference

For ios you can try app like "EveryHour Alarm" (https://itunes.apple.com/app/id963108472)


How do I get songs previously purchased on my old iPhone onto my new iPhone? I just got a new iPhone as my old one was broken. My old one was a iPhone 4 and this new is a 4S. Now I purchased songs from on my old phone and when I look at these songs on the iTunes music store it says they are purchased but they are not in my iTunes library, how do I get them there?

The iTunes store has a 'Purchased' section that you can use to view and re-download purchased music.

Open up iTunes on your computer and select iTunes Store in the sidebar. In the iTunes Store homepage, click the Purchased link in the Quick Links box on the right:

Once on the Purchased page, select the Music tab on the left and the 'Not on This Computer' tab on the right. Select All Songs in the list on the left and click the Download All button at the bottom of the page.

Once your downloads finish you should have all your music in your library, ready to be synced to your new iPhone.

I solved the same thing when it happened to me.

Go to iTunes Store on your new iPhone and you should find it, I think.


Can the SQLite databases that store iOS mail be exploited to back up messages? Being the technical dude of the family I'm confronted with the following problem:

An iPhone 3GS with iOS 3.1.2, the owner has a lot of old email messages stored on the device but has lost access to the original email server. Other copies of these messages were safely stored on a laptop but the hard disk died.

Forwarding each message manually from the device is not an option given the amount of work involved (about 2000 messages).

I'm fairly technical but without any experience with Macs or iPhones. Reading around a bit I learned the following:

There's no straightforward way to backup email messages (you can backup email account settings but not the actual content).
There's no way to mark all messages on the device and move them to an IMAP folder so they would sync up to a new mail server.
Messages are stored in a SQLite database file on the device. You cannot access this file and move it to your PC or mail it to yourself unless you jailbreak and unlock the device.

First of all, am I wrong and there is some magical way or utility to transfer messages from the device to a PC? Assuming there isn't, can someone point me to the right jailbreak and unlocking procedures that will not delete all data from the device and allow me to get that SQLite store safely?

I'd love to learn if it's possible to read these databases and make a backup of my Mail by accessing the backup files or the files directly on the device.

Is this possible?

I was searching for information on this myself because I needed to back up my email data from the device before doing a restore (it's just shameful that Apple doesn't consider your email messages to be important enough to include in its backups). The following information is valid for IOS 6, I hope it applies to your situation with IOS 3 as well.  On IOS 6 at least, you won't need to mess around with SQlite or anything, it's all plain text.

You need access to the filesystem on the device. There are various PC and Mac apps that will browse the files on the device -- Ifunbox is one that claims to allow access to the filesystem without jailbreaking.

Instructions for jailbreaking your specific device (if it turns out you need it) can be found at http://stateofjailbreak.com/guide/iphone-3gs/3-1-2/.

The emails are stored in User/Library/Mail (that's a symlink, the actual path seems to be var/mobile/library/mail).  Just copy the whole thing to your laptop.

Inside there, you'll find directories named after each email account set up on the device. There's a pretty self-explanatory folder structure within each account folder.  Once you drill down, the emails themselves are stored in individual plaintext *.emlx files, complete with all headers and uuencoded attachments (there's also sometimes an "attachments" folder which has the extracted version of the attachments).  On a PC, you'll want to rename them to *.eml files, and then you'll be able to import them into various email programs like Thunderbird or Outlook; with some you'll need a utility, with others the import function is built in.

I haven't gotten far enough to determine if copying a backup of these folders onto a device restored from itunes backup will restore your archive of emails or not.  Did I mention how annoying it is that Apple doesn't think your offline emails are worth saving when you do a backup of your device?

If you want to backup messages of iPhone, you can use iTunes to make it.

Download the latest version of iTunes on your computer;
Connect iPhone to computer and run iTunes with it;
Choose to make a backup with iTunes;

That is the way you are able to backup iPhone messages on computer.


What are the key differences between the Shazam and Soundhound Apps? Both seem to do roughly the same thing.   What, if anything, are the relevant differences?

Don't know if there are really major differences that set one far apart from the other.

One of the bigger differentiators is that Soundhound claims to recoginze songs that are hummed and/or sung by the user.

From a purely opinion oriented view, I've had better success with Soundhound at identifying songs than Shazam - but both do the job pretty well. Soundhound also seems to be quicker at returning results for me than Shazam. Again, that's just my own experience and I've, by no means, done exhaustive testing between the two.

Shazam seems to have better search but Soundhound can search by lyrics.

Here's a great video about SoundHound vs. Shazam that should help answer your question:


Is it possibe to upgrade and re-jailbreak (in order to unlock) a 3Gs running on 4.1? I have a locked 3Gs running 4.1 and it's pretty annoying not be able to install anything on it anymore (most apps nowadays require at least 4.3)

I can not unlock it officially because i bought second hand two years ago and can't reach the person i bought it from :s

So i would like to know if it will be possible to jailbreak it (to be able to unlock it) after upgrading it, or should i just leave it at 4.1 and use the basic functions ?

Modem firmware : 06.15.00

Thanks

You're a few weeks too late.

There was the Evasi0n jailbreak, which worked on iOS 6.0 - 6.1.2, but iOS 6.1.3 killed it.

You can do the IMEI unlock, it costs $5 and you wont need to jailbreak anymore.


How to disable macbook's mic, but not speakers? I found this informative post about completely disabling audio on OS X by removing/disabling the required audio kernel extensions. The problem is this disables audio-in and audio-out, and I only want to disable audio-in.

I'm looking to completely disable audio-in, in a way which cannot be re-enabled by unprivileged users, not just muting it. How could I accomplish this?

Disabling Input

To disable the input, I'm not entirely sure.  Here's what I thought of:

You can use a internal audio input device like SoundFlower, which basically routes the audio output into the audio input.
You can mute the volume (although you said you don't want to do only that)
You could take a look around the /System/Library/Extensions/ folder and in the IOAudioFamily.ktexts file for anything useful, however that can muck up OS X.

Preventing Changes

Disabling underprivileged users from changing the settings isn't actually too hard:

$ sudo chmod 700 /System.Library/PreferencePanes/Sound.prefPane

Will do the trick.  Loading the preference pane from any user (other than root) will display an error.

I believe you can just adjust the input volume to the lowest setting (it is a slider within system preferences => sound => input). Move it to the far left and leave the rest the same.

Be sure and select the correct device for sound input when making your adjustments.


Is there a way to use my mouse or trackpad with my iPhone I'm looking for a way of using my trackpad to virtually tap things on my iPhone screen.  I realize this is a long shot, and iOS quite possibly makes this impossible, but I'm sure I'm not the only person who wants this, and this is the best place to ask.

I can use any bluetooth keyboard with my phone, and using Type2Phone I can direct a bluetooth signal from my laptop to my phone while it charges, and while I'm mainly using my laptop.  But then using the touch screen is very awkward.  I'd like to do the same thing with my trackpad that I do with my keyboard, so if I need to briefly use an iOS app while I'm working, I don't have to repeatedly take it off the stand every time.

While you can pair a bluetooth keyboard with an iOS device and use it, Apple does not support for pairing a bluetooth mouse or trackpad.

I did find that there is a third-party app for use on jailbroken iOS devices that allow you to do what you want. It provides an alternative Bluetooth Stack which provides the ability to use the trackpad or mouse. See here for more info.

Do not think it works as a standalone device. However, never tried it myself, but I guess that if one would attach a bluetooth keyboard with built in mousepath it could work.


iTunes now takes up 100% of CPU since updating to 11.3 UPDATE:
The issue seems to be at least related to what konqui mentioned in the Comments since I do have a large library of podcasts. However, if this was merely related to re-indexing then one would expect things to go back to normal but this doesn't seem to be the case.
Basically, now everything (related to podcasts, at least) takes about 100 times longer than it should take. For instance, after clicking on the podcasts tab itself, it takes 10 seconds (with CPU at 100%) and just refreshing podcasts has taken up to 30 minutes.

Since updating iTunes to Version 11.3, it quickly takes up 100% of the CPU and stops responding every time I try to open it.
I've tried:

Waiting for it to sort itself out on its own
Force Quitting (and then re-starting iTunes)
Re-starting my computer entirely (MBP, running Version 10.9.4) and then trying both previous approaches.

Has anyone heard of this issue before? Should I uninstall 11.3? And, if so, how do I do this?
Again, this problem has only started happening since updating to Version 11.3 two days ago.
Another strange thing is that iTunes does not appear to be totally frozen--for a few seconds the "(not responding)" will occasionally disappear and then reappear. Plus, in those few seconds that it starts to respond again, its status will change (for instance, now it says it is "Processing Album Artwork" and earlier a random podcast started playing). However, this doesn't seem to explain why the % CPU consistently remains at around 100%. [UPDATE: The 100% CPU/"Not Responding"-status may, for some reason, be related to podcasts being refreshed]
Currently, the only Applications I have open are:

Activity Monitor
Google Chrome
iTunes
Finder

Since upgrading to iTunes 11.3 I have experienced a very similar problem.  Every time I refresh my podcasts, iTunes' memory/CPU usage surges, and the iTunes UI freezes up for 5-10 minutes.

I haven't found a complete solution, but I have stumbled across a temporary workaround.  On my system, the problem only seems to occur when I refresh podcasts while looking at them in the List view, as in the screenshot below:

If instead I refresh podcasts from the All Unplayed view, there is no freezing at all:

It appears that the issue is related to viewing the podcast list while refreshing all podcasts.  (You can even avoid the issue if you click refresh in List view and then quickly click away to another view, like Music.)

Not a super satisfying answer, I know, but for me it has returned iTunes to a semi-usable state.

Maybe you can try to restart your computer. Sometimes, it works for me when my computer runs pretty slow. You don't know what you've run on your computer.


What features of Mavericks are beneficial to you? This question serves to share and collect the enhancements that make a large difference to how you use your Mac.

Please post one feature per answer. Please also check to see if your answer has already been posted - duplicate answers will be deleted. To search answers for this question use inquestion:this (directly from the question page) in addition to your search terms in the search box in the upper right hand corner of this page.

The best answers will not only list a feature, but provide details on how to configure that feature, and provide an image of how to use the feature to be more efficient or effective with Mavericks.

The overhaul of the virtual memory system makes it clear that memory pressure is the primary factor to track and not how many free pages, inactive pages or overall virtual memory is allocated.

The bottom panel is invaluable for diagnosing a slow machine and knowing whether to rule out memory contention as a cause of the slowness. After running your Mac for a week, you should reach a nice steady state like shown above and can know if adding more RAM or adjusting the programs you run will affect performance.

iBooks (for Mac) stinks (can't edit any metadata, kinda flakey about syncing with my iPad, you now have to interact with two programs to manage your books, etc.), but if you were unfortunate enough to have it suck all of your books out of iTunes and into its universe before you knew what was going on then here are a couple of tips.

To delete a book or PDF select the book and hit the Delete key.  (There was something in iTunes that worked in that same non-intuitive way, wasn't there?)

To reduce the the flakiness of the sync I had to double-home-button-kill iBooks on my iPad, then try syncing again.  It helped.

If out of habit you drag a PDF into iTunes it will be gladly accepted, but you won't be able to see it anymore, because the Books category is gone and there's no Library category anymore.  It will show up as Music and you can delete it from there.

UPDATE: 9:30pm: NOW there's a "Delete" item showing up when you right-click on a book in the popup menu.  That hasn't been there all day.  Have no idea what made it start showing up.  This program needs some work.  It should have been iBooks beta.


My Xcode build requires cURL 8.0.0 or later (which doesn't exist) I'm writing a C program in Xcode that uses cURL. It builds properly on my Mac Pro running 10.8.5, but on my MacBook Pro running 10.8.5, it gives me this error when I try to build:

dyld: Library not loaded: /usr/local/opt/curl/lib/libcurl.4.dylib
  Referenced from: /Users/AlecZ/Library/Developer/Xcode/DerivedData/UPServer2-folctfcnmdhllzbddscwimqrggig/Build/Products/Debug/UPServer2
  Reason: Incompatible library version: UPServer2 requires version 8.0.0 or later, but libcurl.4.dylib provides version 7.0.0

The latest cURL is 7.37.0, so I don't see how it could require 8.0.0. I have run into similar issues before when trying to compile software for Linux from its source, the compiler stating that I need a nonexistent version of some library.

I have already run brew install libcurl, but it says that I can't replace the system library for cURL.

Try reinstalling curl package, e.g.

brew update
brew reinstall curl libcurl

This should fix the broken dependencies.

If this won't help, then try to comment out or remove any DYLD_LIBRARY_PATH, DYLD_FALLBACK_LIBRARY_PATH or DYLD_FRAMEWORK_PATH references from the startup shell scripts (e.g. ~/.bash_profile).

This is probably not the best solution, but I remembered this just as I was asking the question. After running brew install libcurl, I moved everything except pkgconfig from /usr/local/Cellar/curl/7.37.0/lib into /usr/lib, replacing old files. So I'm still at version 7.37.0, but it compiles properly now. I don't know what the compiler error was trying to say.


Transferring photos from iPhone to windows computer I recently purchased an iPhone 5. I was using an android device before this. When I made the switch from android to iPhone I synced my photos from my android device onto my iPhone 5. When I synced those photos over it made duplicates of every photo and stored them in a photo album (not camera roll).

How can I get the photos from that album on my iPhone onto my windows computer and delete the duplicates?

I am running the Windows 7 OS. So far I have tried importing photos and the only photos it will import are those from camera roll.

tems in the Camera Roll or the Saved Photos album of your device can be imported to your computer, just make sure to follow the instructions provided in the "Importing photos to your computer" section of this article:

http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4236

Download iTunes for windows, make a local backup https://support.apple.com/kb/PH20355?locale=it_IT&viewlocale=en_EN , import the photo in your photo app or in another folder, delete the photos from your iphone


Can I still downgrade from iOS 6.1.3 to iOS 6.1.2 (iPhone 4)? I am trying to jailbreak a friend's 16GB iPhone 4. It's currently running iOS 6.1.3.

I'm aware that you can't jailbreak 6.1.3, so I am attempting to downgrade to 6.1.2, however I am having an issue creating or finding SHSH blobs for redsn0w to complete the downgrade.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

As mentioned in the firmware signing status for iPhone 4, only iOS versions from 7 and up are being signed by Apple.

In order to use redsn0w to do a downgrade, you need the SHSH blobs saved for the specific version that you wish to downgrade to. In this case, it seems like they were never saved while the phone was on iOS 6.1.2. So you cannot create/retrieve them.

You cannot downgrade right now, as Apple has stopped signing iOS below version 7 now. Your best, if you want to jailbreak, is then to wait till a stable release is given out.


Keyboard Layout after startup reverts to "ABC - Extended" when using FileVault I am an ordinary QWERTZ keyboard user. Now, when I setup my mac, I neglected the Keyboard Layout setting (I thought it would default to the usual). But, the layout was set to ABC - Extended.

I can change it back to QWERTZ, but every time I restart my mac it reverts back to the ABC setting.

My keyboard does not look like this (But part of me does wish it did).

How can I permanently change the setting of the keyboard layout at the login screen?

After updating to macOS Mojave I still have this problem, so the setting must have slipped back in through my TimeMachine backup.

The screen in macOS Mojave. There are some weird UI issues with Dvorak - QUERTY ⌘.

This are my Language and Region settings:

And my user settings:

The problem persisted after I have updated to macOS Catalina.

These are my keyboard settings:

Update:

I could shed some light onto this issue. The ctrl.blog, which was mentioned in the comments mentions that FileVault might plays a role in this. So these are the steps I did follow:

Reboot
"ABC - Extended" is chosen as the language at the login dialog
Choose German and sign in
Reboot
"ABC - Extended" is chosen as the language at the login dialog
Change the language and sign in
Disable FileVault and wait for it's completion
Reboot
The Loginscreen looks a bit different now, I'm able to scroll with the mouse wheel and I'm able to choose "Remove current from list" in the language menu.
Sign in and Reboot
FINALLY: The language is now still set to German.
Enable FileVault again (hoping that the currently set language will be used as the new Default).
Wait until FileVault is activated (another few hours)
Reboot
There we go again: ABC is again set as the default

I did submit this Feedback to Apple as of November 13 2019.

I wrote an article called How to fix macOS startup keyboard layout not persisting about this very problem.

I never figured out exactly what the problem was, but the ABC Extended keyboard layout is the default fallback when no other keyboard layout is configured. The pre-boot environment stores its settings separately from the rest of the system.

Sometimes these settings go out of sync, or the system fails to save settings to the pre-boot environment. You’re more likely to run into this when using FileVault disk-encryption because of the increased complexity in this setup.

I lay out 11 steps in the above article that gets macOS to regenerate the settings file in the pre-boot environment. With the help of my readers, I’ve identified at least three different problems that these steps can resolve. It’s easier to just diligently follow all the steps exactly than to first try to identify the exact issue and then try to fix it.

Follow these steps:

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202036

We Dvorak folk have to do this all the time...


How do I enable/disable push notifications for an app on iOS 7? Apps will often ask to enable push notifications the first time they are run. However how do I change this setting after answering this? There doesn't seem to be a single thing in Settings about Push Notifications. The closest I can find is "Notification Center", but this just appears to customize how notifications appear, not whether push notifications are enabled or disabled for the app. This is a really confusing UI.

There is an "include" and a "do not include" section in Notification Center.

Tap "edit" at top right corner of the Notification Center. This allows you to drag apps around in the Notification Center.

Hold the app you want to stop push notifications from, by the lines on the right hand side to its name, and drag it into "do not include" section. It will automatically close all banner settings for the app, and voila! You are good to go.

I had this problem when I wanted to enable push push notifications for my Amazon app in order to get alerts of when my package was delivered or when my package is being shipped. I selected them to be disabled when I first downloaded the app, and couldn't reenable them when I had the after.

The only way I was able to reenable the push notifications for my Amazon app was to delete The app and re-download it from the app store.

Hope that helps...it sucks we have to erase and redownload an app just to enable push notifications.


MacOS 10.14: Disable headphone volume key repeat (prevent continous volume increase) (Macbook Pro late 2013, 10.14.6)
The behavior I want to prevent: If I hold a headphone volume control button pressed, the volume continues to increase (decrease) all the way up (down). I'd like to restrict this action to one increment by press, even if it's a continuous press. Any known way for this?
Or maybe a way to disable volume key repeat for the keyboard? I could imagine it would also affect the headphone buttons in a desired way.

Key repeat can be turned off in the keyboard preference panel.  That's a global setting affecting all keys, if you want this behavior only on the volume controls then that's not going to help.


Mac Pro 5.1 Windows 10 boot problems I'm trying to run Win 10 on a separated drive attached to sata optical drive bay. I ran into some issues about GPT partition over instalation processes which I could solve it by terminal commands. It was installed, booted up but after restarting it doesn’t boot anymore, it restarts on every attempt.
I’m running a Mac Pro 2010, Sierra OSX.
Please, would someone help me with that?

This answer is based on your comment which is repeated below.

  It was running smoothly on UEFI boot, but after a graphic card driver update it doesn't boot anymore.

Another possible solution would be to disable Windows Update from downloading and installing driver updates. This can be done using the Local Group Policy Editor (This requires Widows 10 Pro are better.) or from the control panel.

The Control Panel steps for Windows 10 (version 1803) are given below.

From the Start menu select Window System, then select Control Panel.
Select View by: Small icons.
Select System.
Select Advanced system settings.
Select Hardware tab.
Select Device Installation Settings
Select No
Select Save Changes.

This will require you to reinstall Windows. I suggest not connecting to the internet until you have disabled driver updates and installed the Window Support Software from Apple.

You may also want to try to see if you can get Windows 10 to Safe Boot. Boot from the Windows 10 installation media (DVD or USB flash drive) and at the first menu enter the shift+F10 key combination. Enter the following command in the window.

bcdedit  /set  {default}  safeboot  minimal

Close all windows to restart the Mac. If you can get Windows to boot, then maybe you could rollback the graphic device driver.

It is important to realize that Apple does not support all versions of Windows on all Macs. It is not that they are not capable, it is just that Apple didn't write drivers for older Macs.

That said if you go here https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204990#models you will find that the earliest Mac Pro that supports Windows 10 is the Late 2013 model (sometimes referred to as the trash can or cylinder model).

Tho some people have had success downloading drivers for similar hardware from a manufacturers website that is a bit of a crap shoot and, I believe, off-topic for AskDifferent.

So it is likely that it doesn't work because it is not specifically supported.


Control and see iPhone from Mac with broken iPhone screen My iPhone screen broke, I can't see anything anymore. But I know it's still working because plugging to my mac syncs it with iTunes.

Is there a tool I can use to see my screen on the mac, control it, etc?

The tricky part is any solution requiring me to first do something on the iPhone won't work, since I can't do anything...

Just use QuickTime Player on your Mac.

Connect the Lightning port from your iPhone to the USB to your computer.
In QuickTime select File → New Movie Recording but don't start the recording.
Next to the record button select the down arrow button, then select your iPhone. This will bring the iPhone's display screen to your Mac within QuickTime.

You don't have to record anything, you can use your non-working display and look inside QuickTime to see your screen.

download "itools" and in there you will see airplay so you can plug it to computer or even to your flat-tv using macbook pro


How can I add a new search engine to Safari without any 3rd party add-ons? I know add-ons such as Glims can do this, but I would rather stay away from them.  Any native (or more likely semi-native) way to do so?  If it matters, the engine I would like to add is duckduckgo.

No, the only options are Google, Bing, and Yahoo.

If it is of any help, DuckDuckGo have their own extension on the Apple website for Safari extensions.

in your /etc/hosts file, add this line:

184.72.115.86 search.yahoo.com

then choose Yahoo as your default search.


iPhone does not respond to DHCP request/discover from our Linux-based system We have the following problem:

An iPhone is acting as a Network Access Point under the PAN Bluetooth profile, but it does not respond to DHCP request/discover from our Linux-based system. The PAN connection can be established, but no IP address is assigned.

Steps to Reproduce:
- Activate Bluetooth on iPhone (5C iOS 10.3.2, but also seen in 6S iOS 11.x)
- Activate Bluetooth tethering on iPhone
- Pair our Linux-based system to iPhone via Bluetooth (PAN profile, NAP service)
- Execute dhclient in our Linux-based system.

Expected Results:
- The iPhone assigns an IP address via DHCP to our Linux-based system.

Actual Results:
- The iPhone does not respond to DHCP request/discover from our Linux-based system.

Is there any special handling/protocol in order to get an IP address and establish the PAN communication?

Thank you all,

The problem was solved by setting the MAC address manually right after the TAP interface was created

No, no special handling/protocol is needed. The iPhone in this respect is just like any other Bluetooth device offering a network aggregation point.

Your question should be directed to the Unix & Linux StackExchange instead.


Best app to switch between all open windows After 4 years of being a Mac user, there is only one thing that I still miss from the Windows world, and that is being able to switch with a single keystroke between all open windows in the computer.

What is the best app or utility, free or not, for accomplishing that?

I've used Witch, but I never was completely satisfied with it. It's a bit slow and the switcher UI is not very pretty.

Do you know any alternative?

EDIT (2016): This question keeps getting views and upvotes after 6 years. When I asked this question in 2010 I was still transitioning from being a Windows user. Eventually, I got used to Mac OS X UI and nowadays I don't use any third party utility for managing app windows, just Mission Control and the native keyboard shortcuts. So, although this question is no longer relevant for me I hope it is useful to new Mac users making the switch (Including this comment).

Hyperswitch is free and works well. It also looks nice.
Update: ...but unfortunately as of May 2021 the app is not being updated anymore and has no native Apple Silicon (M1) support.

http://bahoom.com/hyperswitch

As mentioned in the question, Witch ($14) is one of the first window switchers and, IMHO, still one of the best.

I suspect @Sergio (questioner) main concerns have now been addressed in Witch. I think its actually one of the better looking ones, with lots of options for tweaking appearance (including themes). It also feels very fast to me.

All that said, I am not currently using Witch because it doesn't support searching the window names. For that I was using Optimal Layout and am now trying out Contexts (which seems very promising).


How can I un-erase my iphone from iCloud My iPhone was stolen and I made the mistake of choosing erase my iPhone in iCloud.
Is there any way to un-erase my iPhone from iCloud?

If not, is there any way to track my phone??

This is the link to the find feature in iCloud https://www.icloud.com/#find

Check out this forum https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4370979 (a user declared that it helped).

  Sorry, there is no way for you to reverse the Erase command. AppleCare
  "may" be able to, you can try calling them, but there is nothing you
  can do.

Go to iColud.com and call Apple Care, they will walk you through how to get it back.


Merge folders and subfolders in macOS I have 2 folders that I need to merge.

Inside each folder are subfolders. In about 50% of the cases these subfolders exist in both parent folders.

E.g.

 FOLDER 1 | FOLDER 2
  ---------------------
    SUB 1 | SUB 1

    SUB 2 | SUB 2

    SUB 3 | SUB 3

Although the subfolders have the same names, they do not include the same data and I would like these to be merged. It's not a case of one overwriting the other they actually need to be merged as each contains unique data.

Is that possible in Mac OS X 10.10? I also have access to the same folder via Dropbox on other machines running Mac OS X 10.11 and macOS 10.13.

Open a Terminal, and use ditto:

ditto [source] [destination]

For example:

$ cd ~
$ mkdir A/
$ mkdir A/1
$ mkdir A/2
$ mkdir A/3
$ touch A/1/1.txt
$ touch A/2/2.txt
$ mkdir B
$ mkdir B/1
$ mkdir B/3
$ touch B/1/x.txt
$ touch B/3/z.txt
$ ditto A B
$ open .

This article at the link below will help you set up an Automator Action to merge folders... or if you're comfortable in Terminal, you could just use Rsynch - the relevant commands are in this article too.

https://www.bananica.com/Geek-Stuff/Synchronize-two-folders-on-a-Mac-with-Automator-and-Rsync/


Prevent Mac to sleep when lid closed on Mojave / Catalina So I saw a lots of old discussion on this topic, but I'm trying to find out an actual solution that still works on Mojave / Catalina, without the use of external monitor/keyboard/mouse/with power adapter.

When looking up Amphetamine, they claimed that you can only do it when the 4 criteria are met, and cannot overridden it.

But on the other hands, Anti Sleep provide the feature in their pro version...

So, which one gets the real deal ? Is Anti Sleep lying about it or Amphetamine (and all other caffeine app on the appStore) is out of date ?

I also heard about InsomniaX and built-in caffeine  but it's really not user friendly, and appear not to be supported anymore...

You can accomplish this in  terminal. No additional software needed.Display global power settings:pmset -g

System-wide power settings:
Currently in use:
 lidwake              1
 autopoweroff         1
 standbydelayhigh     86400
 autopoweroffdelay    28800
 proximitywake        1
 standby              1
 standbydelaylow      10800
 ttyskeepawake        1
 hibernatemode        3
 powernap             1
 gpuswitch            2
 hibernatefile        /var/vm/sleepimage
 highstandbythreshold 50
 womp                 0
 displaysleep         10
 networkoversleep     0
 sleep                1 (sleep prevented by sharingd)
 tcpkeepalive         1
 halfdim              1
 acwake               0
 disksleep            10

To stop sleep entirely:sudo pmset -a disablesleep 1To revert, allowing sleep again:sudo pmset -a disablesleep 0

A better way to do this is to follow the instructions here. Very simply, with the cover open:

Connect to power
Connect a bluetooth / USB keyboard and mouse

Now close the cover. Clicking the mouse will light up the external monitor if it shut down when you closed the cover.


What is default (factory pre-loaded) iOS for iPhone 3gs I was so happy with my iphone when I bought it. It was so fast... now, after dozen of upgrades i hate my iphone....

does anyone remember what was the original version of iOS when they bought their 3GS

The 3GS originally shipped with iOS 3.0, which was called iPhone OS 3.0 at the time.

go to
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IPhone

and then go to
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IOS_version_history


Read files from vintage DOS 3.3 .dsk I have a .dsk file, as used by Apple II emulators. It's DOS 3.3 format. How can I get the individual files off it as single files?

Nice would be either an existing tool or documentation of the sector structure of DOS 3.3 (I don't mind writing code, not at all).

(I used tag apple2gs since it already exists, and rep 101 not enough to make new tags.)

There are two utilities with source code here:

FID - "File Developer" for .DSK images of DOS 3.3 disks
FID is a file manipulation utility for DOS 3.3 disk images in .DSK format.

a2tools
a2tools is a utility similar to FID: it can do a "CATALOG", "DELETE", "SAVE" and "LOAD" on Apple II .DSK images.

a2tools seems at least compilable, but I don't have any .dsk files to test it with.

Google tells me that Disk Utility can mount it, or even DiskImageMounter, if you just double-click it.

Failing that, rename it to .dmg & try again.

I don't have one to test with, so YMMV.

Edit
I found one to test - & none of the above was any good :(

This looks like it might be useful - though it looks like it needs more terminal massaging than I'd be any good at - http://apple2online.com/index.php?p=1_73_Using-Downloaded-Software


Chrome: When menubar displays, webpage shifts down All of a sudden, a couple weeks ago, I've noticed that whenever I hover my mouse at the top of my chrome browser while in fullscreen, when the top menu bar appears it shifts the whole webpage a couple inches down. It's a really clumsy interface experience - when reading ebooks on google play books, to accidentally hover my mouse to the top of the webpage causes the page to shift and subsequently reformat me to a new page in the book.

The menu bar used to just come down over the webpage, covering whatever inch or two it took up. Now the whole thing reformats. Any solutions to this?

I understand this is is similar to other threads, but what I'm looking for is not for the menu bar to be there permanently, just that when I hover my mouse, it doesn't reformat the page as it is now doing.

I have added a GIF, hopefully you can see the effect I'm talking about. The recording isn't perfect but, basically, no overlay. Just slides the whole webpage down.

I just tested it on my Chrome Version 69.0.3497.100 (Official Build) (64-bit)

on OS X High Sierra 10.13.6

and it works just fine !

Update your Chrome and OS X

and disable Chrome add on's to test.

Go to chrome://flags/ and Reset to Defaults.


Is there a way to use Siri with my Bluetooth? I have a new Bluetooth headset and would like to use Siri with it. As far as I know, the standard way is to hold down the "call" button for a long press. Unfortunately, my headset treats a 3-second press as a "turn off" signal. Is there a workaround? Possible options I've thought of include shortening the press needed to trigger Siri, remapping the "redial" function (which on this headset involves double-tapping the button", using an alternate combo to trigger Siri, or turning on "Hey Siri" for Bluetooth only.

Most wireless headsets use a double tap of the main button for voice commands (like Siri)

You are trying to use it like wired headphones that have the controller by trying with the hold of the main button

If it has a second button also try double pressing or holding it

Press the call button and say “hey siri”


Gmail SMTP server going offline I have a Google Apps account, with 2-step verification, set up in Apple mail. Typically it works great for several weeks, or a month, but then the SMTP server has (Offline) next to it, and it will refuse to send from that email address. I still can receive mail into that account. I believe deleting the account from Mail.app and adding it back in fixes the problem for awhile, but is there something that I should look for in the configuration of this account that has problems in particular?

Are you sure google isn't simply kicking you out after a month or so, because you have to refresh your two factor auth login?

SMTP uses password authentication, and two factor auth sets up your account so that a password alone is not enough to access your account.

I think this is unlikely to be a problem with mail.app, and deleting/re-creating the account is a red herring. The real issue is happening on google's server and something else is solving it. Deleting the account in Mail.app and creating a new one with the same username/password has no impact at all on what data it sends to google's server, so it's impossible for that to solve the problem you're having.

Perhaps if you log into google in safari, go through the two factor auth process, Mail.app will suddenly start working again? I'm not sure how google's two factor auth uses, I think if you have used two factor auth from that IP address recently, it will accept password-only authentication.

Failing that, you might have better luck on a google specific support forum, or just waiting for it to be fixed (you can't be the only person experiencing this issue).

I have this same problem as of this morning (9/30/15) after upgrading to Yosemite on my Macbook Pro. It worked fine for one day. Can receive but not send as the account is offline.  I've tried every tip I've been reading about and nothing is working.  I can send emails from my Mac if I go on the internet to mail.google.com.  The problem is with MacMail.


Convert .mov to .mp4 I want to convert .mov to .mp4! I saved the video from iMovie but it is in .mov format! How do I convert it to .mp4?

I'm using a MacBook and I want to share it to my phone, but my phone can't open .mov format video.

I personally find using ffmpeg shell program (available through Brew using brew install ffmpeg) the most convenient way to do the conversions.

It includes tons of options for nearly any single thing you could possibly do with a movie.

In your case though, for a conversion, you can simply type:

ffmpeg -i /path/to/input/file /path/to/output.mp4

The .mp4 extension in the output path serves as a cue for the program to do the proper conversion -- no more options are necessary.

Which iPhone models who you own? The iPhone can only play H.264 or MPEG-4 video. The most simple way is downloading Handbrake, which not only assists you to convert MOV to iPhone suppported H.264 or MPEG-4 video, but also offers advanced profile parameters adjusting function to assist you to get better output video and audio quality.


What is the impedance of the line/headphone jack on MacBook Pro Retina? I want to buy headphones that I will primarily use on my MacBook Pro Retina. I read that I should not buy headphones with high impedance because the volume will be really low. I want something I can use with my MacBook and my iPad. I looked at these headphones, but I'm afraid they will not work well for my purposes:

http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-770-PRO-250-ohms/dp/B0006NL5SM/ref=pd_cp_e_0

Does anyone have experience with this stuff?

I couldn't find the specific details for the new MacBook Pro Retina machine, but these specs are pretty universal across the whole MBP lineup and should help you match a pair of headphones:

  Line/Headphone Output

  The line/headphone output is automatically selected for audio output if no external device is detected at the S/PDIF optical digital output port. The line/headphone output supports a stereo data stream at bit depths of 16, 20, or 24 bits per sample and at sample rates of 44.1 kHz, 48 kHz, or 96 kHz. The line/headphone output volume can be adjusted from 0.0 dB to -95.25 dB.

  During playback of a 1 kHz, full-scale sine wave (44.1 kHz output sample rate, 24-bit sample depth, 100 kΩ load, unless otherwise specified) the audio line output has the following nominal specifications:

  Jack type: 3.5 mm stereo
  Maximum output voltage: 2 VRMS (+8.24 dBu)
  Output impedance: < 24 Ω
  Frequency response: 20 Hz to 20 kHz, +0.5 dB/-3 dB
  Signal-to-noise ratio (SNR): > 90 dB
  Total harmonic distortion + noise (THD+N): < -80 dB (0.01%)
  Channel separation: > 75 dB

  Note: For best results, equipment plugged into the line/headphone output jack should not connect the audio ground to other grounds, such as the chassis or “green-wire” ground.

The answer to that post doesn't contain a reference link I'm afraid.

I did find a link on the Apple Support page that says the Mac Mini's headphone jack is 10 Ohms.

All this is to say: yes, you're correct. Those headphones are far too high a load for the limited-power amplifiers in your iDevices and your MacBook Pro.

You want a lower impedance headphones. They're more efficient at converting the electrical signal they're passed in to sound you can hear. More efficient means, for the same power electrical signal, higher volume reproduction.

Aim for something the less-than-or-equal to 64 Ohm range if you can.

Geeez ...  Why make a simple question hard ...  Almost all analog audio devices have an output of between 4 and 20 ohms.  So, the closer to that range your headphones the better they will perform.  10 ohms is good.


How do I add an Apple TV to hotel wifi without a browser? I'm staying at a hotel and want to use my Apple TV. My problem is that because there's no browser on the Apple TV I can't get to the proxy web page where I can accept the terms of service.

I found a link explaining a work-around using a Mac as an ad hoc airport, but I don't have a Mac or other wireless router with me, just an iPhone and iPad.

I also found some advice about spoofing MAC addresses, but the instructions involved a lot of command line jujitsu that I don't know how to do on iOS.

Use a computer to imitate or “spoof the MAC address” and register the AppleTV hardware address and agree to the terms is the pragmatic manner to join.

Unlike the post you found, however, it can be done much more easily with a MacBook and without much jujitsu.

First get the MAC address of the Apple TV (available in Settings) and shut it down.
Then run the following in Mac's terminal app, replacing the MAC address shown with that of your Apple TV: sudo ifconfig en0 ether 98:01:a7:a1:f6:77.
Next confirm the change by running ifconfig en0 | grep ether.
Finally use your Mac's browser to sign-in and bypass the captive portal.

Once that's done disconnect or power off your Mac, plug your Apple TV back in and connect to the network as usual. Instructions here summarized from Spoofing IoT Device MAC Addresses.

Call the hotel's customer service and have them add the MAC address. Done. Or jailbreak it and add a browser.


Mac cannot detect external audio driver A little while back I updated my OS to El Capitan 10.11.6. Ever since upgrading from Yosemite the OS has not been able to detect any audio device. In safe mode, it can detect so them and runs no problem has to be a software issue (as identified by apple). I don't want to manually add everything back to a new system to find the issue.

Any help would be hugely appreciated!

The fact that Safe Mode works suggests that the old drivers for your external audio interface are no longer compatible with the newer OS. Check on the manufacturer's website for a new version, and/or follow any instructions for uninstalling the old driver.

Some audio interfaces are "CoreAudio compliant" and can actually work fine without any additional drivers to those built-in to MacOS. After you've removed the old drivers, it's worth seeing if it will work without installing new ones.

After trying both of the replies the audio driver is working, looked to be a possible combination of both .kext and extension.
Sadly I am not 100% certain to which made it work in the end, I searched the terminal for the kext as suggested, then opened console to see if there were any issues when plugging in the device. It seemed as though it was being blocked somehow by an old extension. So I removed a .kext file and the extension by the same name. Restarted and now it is working


move pdf through clipboard $ cat scaswd.pdf| pbcopy
$ pbpaste > astasd.pdf
$ open astasd.pdf

astasd.pdf cannot be opened, but scaswd.pdf is a valid pdf file.

Is there a way I can stick a pdf onto my clipboard and paste it somewhere else?

I want to copy a file from my local computer to a remote one I can only access with ssh, without using intermediary file-hosting servers.

(I can't scp)

For text files copy and pasting between terminals works.

For binary files, like a pdf, I need another solution.

From the man page of pbcopy

  pbcopy  takes the standard input and places it in the specified
  pasteboard. If no pasteboard is specified, the general pasteboard will
  be used by
         default.  The input is placed in the pasteboard as plain text data unless it begins with the Encapsulated PostScript (EPS)  file
  header  or  the
         Rich Text Format (RTF) file header, in which case it is placed in the pasteboard as one of those data types.

So from this it would seem that only documents with RTF format or EPS format can be copied and pasted from these commands.

Finder does support copy and pasting files however, so cmd c, and cmd v, will copy and paste files in finder.

Partial or preliminary answer, needs work on the exact syntax, scripting experts, please help:

The clipboard can do a bit more than the manpage for pbcopy and pbpaste reveals. Obviously, most of us have copied and pasted something else then pure text. Pictures for example.

You might try something like this:

osascript -e 'set the clipboard to (read POSIX file ("/Users/YOU/test.pdf") as PDF file)'

The above is not the correct syntax near às PDF file` and will throw an error. But it works for JPEG files, PNGs etc.

Leaving out the latter part with the slightly incorrect input-syntax copies 'something' to the clipboard.
Checking the content with `osascript -e 'clipboard info' gives then not something like

Unicode text, 92, string, 46, styled Clipboard text, 22, «class utf8», 46, «class ut16», 94

but

astasd.pdf: PDF document, version 1.4

Only that this is then not copied out correctly.

`


Cydia apps gone after install and respring I installed Overboard from Cydia and after respring all my Cydia apps are gone!

There is no Cydia section in Settings. I have reinstalled Cydia Substrate and PreferenceLoader, but nothing happened.

Go into Safe Mode using a tweak or by rebooting whilst holding volume up. Once booted, open Cydia and uninstall Overboard, then respring. If the icons still don't show, ssh into your device as mobile and run uicache then respring.


Can't Rename Images Sequentially Via Applescript Because Other Images Already Have That Name I am trying to automate batch renaming of images sequentially by using a simple Applescript. But I am having difficulty telling the script that there are images in the same folder that already have the same name.

For example, I have three images of a cat that are named Hello World 1, Hello World 2 and Hello World 3.

In the same folder I also have three more of the same image but with the name Test Image 1, Test Image 2 and Test Image 3.

I want to rename all of the "Test Images" to Hello World 4, Hello World 5 and Hello World 6 but I get the following error:

  error "Finder got an error: The operation can’t be completed because
  there is already an item with that name." number -48

How do I tell the script that there are other images in this folder that have the same name and that it needs to start from "Hello World 4" and continue renaming the rest of the images?

Please note that I will be using this as an embedded script in an application called Hazel (noodlesoft.com) and it does not accept handlers. So I will need a solution that does not use a handler.

Here is the script I am using that gives me the error when I try to rename the "Test Images":

tell application "Finder"
    set all_files to every item of (choose file with prompt "Choose the Files you'd like to rename:" with multiple selections allowed) as list
    set new_name to "Hello World"
    repeat with index from 1 to the count of all_files
        set this_file to item index of all_files
        set {itemName, itemExtension} to {name, name extension} of this_file
        set index_prefix to " "
        if itemExtension is "" then
            set file_extension to ""
        else
            set file_extension to "." & itemExtension
        end if
        set the name of this_file to new_name & index_prefix & index & file_extension as string
    end repeat
end tell

The main problem is similar to your other topic - the new name + suffix is not checked against what is already in the folder.  My answer to that topic used a general-purpose handler for getting a new name, so without using that, the (stripped down) contents are used instead:

set all_files to (choose file with prompt "Choose the Files you'd like to rename:" with multiple selections allowed)
set theName to "Hello World " -- includes separator text

tell application "Finder"
    set theFolder to container of first item of all_files -- the base folder
    repeat with this_file in all_files
        set theExtension to name extension of this_file -- keep existing extension
        if theExtension is not "" then set theExtension to "." & theExtension
        if name of this_file does not start with theName then -- don't rename renamed items

            # the "increment suffix number until the name is unique" part
            set counter to 1 -- starting suffix
            set newName to theName & counter & theExtension
            tell (get name of items of theFolder) to repeat while it contains newName -- get new name
                set counter to counter + 1
                set newName to theName & counter & theExtension
            end repeat

            set name of this_file to newName
        end if
    end repeat
end tell

One way would be to check for the existence of the files before you attempt the rename. Write a loop.  Start where your default start file name would be.  Run the names until find an untaken name.

It's harder than it should be to find out if a file exists or does not exist. This routine while long has worked for me.  To avoid this handler, copy the code into your check loop.:

-- ------------------------------------------------------
(*
  ideas from:
  https://stackoverflow.com/questions/3469389/applescript-testing-for-file-existence

 use the alias way.  Others ways ran into trouble eventually.
*)
on fileExists(theFile) -- (String) as Boolean
    (* "System Events" and "Finder" checking for file existance revealed problems. l*)
    set debugging to false
    if debugging then log "  fileExists: theFile is " & theFile
    try
        set theAlias to theFile as alias
        set theExistance to true
    on error errMsg number n
        if debugging then log "  fileExists: n is " & n
        -- File or folder doesn't exist.
        if n is not -43 then
            set commonError to "on error the errMsg is " & errMsg & " number is " & n
            if debugging then log "  fileExists: " & commonError
            display dialog commonError giving up after 10
            -- cause grief above.
            error "Failure of alias." number -1
        else
            set theExistance to false
        end if
    end try
    if debugging then log "  fileExists: theExistance is " & theExistance
    return theExistance
end fileExists


What is login Keychain "Accountsd"? How do I disable it? I am using a MacBook Pro Mid 2012 with MacOS X 10.15.4. I cannot find this Keychain in the Keychain app.

See this website for various solutions:
https://www.macoszon.com/accountsd-wants-to-use-the-login-keychain/
Hope this will help solving your problem.


Fetching upcoming iTunes album releases I would like to track album releases for a group of artists. I could just loop over all of them and check to see if they have any releases since the last one, but it would be much more efficient if I could select future releases.

How can I get anticipated releases via the iTunes API (or another one if this isn't possible)? I was thinking maybe preorders or there would be a list of upcoming releases for that week?

It's a bit obscure, but iTunes actually offers email notifications for new releases by artists you select. To add an artist to the list, go to the artist's page within iTunes, and click the Alert Me link in the right sidebar, then click Manage My Alerts.

You'll see the artist has been added to the list (it may also contain artists you've previously purchased music from). Check the Send me email alerts about artists I've previously downloaded box to (surprise) get email when they release something. To add more artists, click the Alert Me on their page, then click OK.

If you don't want to use email for this, iTunes offers new release RSS feeds. You could filter these with something like Yahoo Pipes to get a feed with only the artists you're interested in.

It's worth noting that these both display new releases when they come out, not upcoming releases. As far as I can tell, Apple doesn't publish any upcoming release data, except for the pre-orders page, which doesn't seem to contain all upcoming releases, just featured ones.

You can also use getreleases.net. It sends email notifications about new releases by artists you subscribed. Free, fast and simple.


Call blocking for iPhone? How do I block unwanted callers without jailbreaking?

A new feature of iOS 7 is call blocking and it allows the device to block calls apart from the previous solutions that involved jailbreaking or having the carrier block calls for you.

Go to recent calls within the phone app. Tap on the "i" to the far right of the number you wish to block. On this info page, scroll down. At the bottom of the page, tap "Block this Caller". Confirm on the warning message.

From the settings app, use iMessage and FaceTime preferences to manage the block list.

This list blocks calls, messages and FaceTime calls (audio and video) from that contact. Combined with a blocked contact as Loïc Wolff has proposed, you have a neat solution for dispatching unwanted calls on an ongoing basis.

In iOS 7 caller blocking is supported by the OS. Unless I'm missing something here the number you want to block needs to be in your contact list. So to block a new number you still need to add a contact first which seems a bit backwards.


How do I write a script that opens an iTerm2 window and runs a command? What I'm doing

I'm using iTerm2 Build 3.0.15 and writing a script that opens a new window and prints "hello world" to the screen. Really, I'm interested in being to run any command but using echo "hello world" as a starting point.

What I've tried

I read up on the iTerm2 documentation for scripting. I wanted to learn more so I dragged the iTerm2 icon on the Script Editor icon to view the dictionary available to me and found the following command:

From reading the dictionary and documentation I wrote the following script:

tell application "iTerm"
  create window with default profile command "echo hello world"
end tell

When I run my script from the terminal a new window opened and "hello world" was on the screen; however, I got the following broken pipe error:

When I select Ok the window closed and I'm left with the following message:

$ osascript iterm.applescript
window id 6415

The Questions

What do these broken pipe and window id 6415 errors mean?
How do I write a script that opens an iTerm2 window and runs a command?

Try this:

tell application "iTerm2"
    set newWindow to (create window with default profile)
    tell current session of newWindow
        write text "echo it works!"
    end tell
end tell

The write command, when not using without newline, executes the write text command because of the default added newline after the "text to send". Thus the window stays open after the command completes, ready for additional use.

From the iTerm AppleScript Dictionary:

  write v : Send text as though it was typed.

        write specifier : The session to send to
              [contents of file file] : Filename to send the contents of
              [text text] : Text to send
              [newline boolean] : If newline should be added to end of text (default: yes)

on alfred_script(q)
    tell application "iTerm2"
        set newWindow to (create window with default profile)
        tell current session of newWindow
            write text q
        end tell
    end tell
end alfred_script


Is there any way to run PowerPC applications on Mountain Lion (Not installing-just opening from a CD) I have old software (will run from a CD) in both a Mac OSX (10.5.8) and Mac OS9 version which I would like to run on Mt Lion, MacBook Pro 2012. A very similar question has been asked and answered here, my question differs in that the software is on a CD and is run from the CD, local installation is not required. Does this change the answers that can be found at link below, addressing installation of the old software on the same machine running Mt Lion. Thanks for any feed back.

See Is there a way to install and use PowerPC applications on Intel Macs?

Quick answer: No.
Long answer: Yes, you can. You can run Snow Leopard in a VM (virtual machine) on your computer.

There are paid solutions like Parallels Desktop and VMWare, but a great free solution is VirtualBox. There is a fabulous guide on how to install Mac OS X Snow Leopard here

Note: You will need a version of Mac OS X Snow Leopard to install on the Virtual Machine. If you don't own it, Apple is still selling it here.

only way i know is to use boot camp but that takes a hell lot of work


What free VPN server to use that would work with iOS? iOS supports 3 VPN solutions: L2TP, PPTP and IPSec and currently I'm using PPTP connecting to a Ubuntu server.

Also, there are several problems: PPTP configuration has to be tunned on both ends in order to make it work and also I heard that PPTP can be broken in just 4 hours.

Is any other better solution for setting up Apple compatible VPNs that would not require buying some commercial software.

For years I've gone through this cycle of trying to set up a home VPN (running on OS X or Ubuntu) that'll support client connections from both my Mac and iPhone/iPad, and hours later I give up in defeat. Six months pass and I think, "it can't really be THAT difficult" ... and the cycle repeats.

Anyway, a couple weeks ago I finally got everything working. Some genius posted exactly what's necessary to get VPN set up for iOS and it also worked with my Mac:

http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1645473&highlight=openswan+iphone

There are two Free VPN services that you can choose to go with, Express VPN and Hotspot Shield. They would work absolutely fine on yur iOS and in my opinion they are the best choice. You can choose any among them.


Screen Sharing on iPhone Is it possible on the iPhone to share the screen live? In other words I would have an app on the iPhone that would allow a person to see my screen live while they watched via a secure URL.

I have seen some apps that allow for screen sharing of files from the iPhone but not the actual screen.

If it is not possible to share the screen live is it possible to record a video of the screen?

Notes: I am not looking for ways to control another iPhone just show the screen live, I am not on a jailbroken iPhone, and I am running iOS 6. Also I am curious to the same for the iPad.

For recording the screen as a video, this site seems to sum up the ways nicely:

http://www.apptamin.com/blog/capture-iphone-ipad-screen-video/

Hope it helps.

Check this out..
http://mgalligan.com/post/29978268510/screen-share-iphone-live-on-internet

Hope it Helps...


Why do my most recent iTunes music purchases not sync to my iPhone? For some reason, the last 15 songs or so that I've downloaded won't sync to my iPhone. I've tried:

Removing all music by unchecking "Sync Music" (didn't actually remove the music for some reason) and then re-adding it.
Putting those 15 songs in a playlist and syncing only those 15 songs.
Rebooting the iPhone.
Rebooting the computer.

Nothing has worked so far. Has anyone experienced this and found a solution?

Note:

The computer is a Fall 2013 Macbook Pro 13-Inch running OS X 10.9.1 with the latest version of iTunes installed. The iPhone is an iPhone 5S running iOS 7.0.4.

I had this exact same problem and found the answer I was looking for within one of the Apple communities. Simply go into iTunes store and scroll right to the very bottom. There amongst the small print you'll see an option for purchased. Click on there and you will see a list of all songs/albums and you can choose to either download all or individual tracks. Once downloaded they appear in your library as normal. Don't ask me why they don't appear straight away, but this resolves the problem of those not transferring when syncing

I've had the same problem and just figured out that I didn't have the "Use Cellular Data" option turned to "ON" under "iTunes & App Store" in Settings. Once I switched it to "ON", all of my "waiting" music immediately started to download. Hope that helps you!


Strange Camera Shutter sound from Macbook Pro My Macbook Pro (Mid-2010, Running OS 10.9) has been making a strange camera shutter sound every couple minutes for the last two weeks. I initially thought it was an ad from one of my Chrome tabs, but it has happened when I've had different pages opened and haven't been able to pinpoint an ad that could be doing this. From what I've noticed so far, it only happens when I have Google Chrome open. Does anyone know what this could be and how I could stop it?

Also, is there an audio log file that I can access on my computer that would allow me to find out what program is creating this sound?

purely speculation, but is it the screen grab sound (try hitting CMD+shift+3)?

then it could be malware that takes automated screenshots.

I fixed this issue by uninstalling and reinstalling Chrome.


Change from Mac OS Extended File to APFS in order to install Mojave I've tried to install Mac OS Mojave on my Mac Mini (late 2012), but it has Mac OS Extended (journaled) as the file system on the main drive. This link is somewhat inconclusive and refers to retired documents.

So my question is two-folded:

Can I change in-place from Mac OS Extended (journaled) to APFS on my boot disc (and can Mojave boot from APFS)?
If not, how can I install Mojave on my Mac Mini (which currently runs High Sierra)?

Update: I've already tried upgrading, and it failed with a vague error message related to the file system upgrade (which I sadly can't recall).

The internal drives of Macs are converted to APFS when upgrading to macOS 10.14 Mojave and yes, macOS Mojave boots from APFS just fine.

More specifically, when Mojave is installed it will convert any internal drive (including SSDs, HDDs and Fusion/Hybrid Drives) from HFS Plus to APFS.

This is an important distinction as prior to macOS Mojave, only SSDs were converted to APFS, and this explains some of the confusion over time regarding how macOS Sierra, macOS High Sierra and macOS Mojave have managed things as APFS has continued to evolve.

If you still can't update, you can try dosdude1's patcher at http://dosdude1.com/mojave.


How to create a FAT16 partition on an SD card with OS X El Capitan? I want to prepare an SD card for use in an old camera using CHDK. The card needs to be FAT16 formatted. This doesn’t work from Terminal anymore, maybe already for years. Disk Utility provides ''FAT'', but this is FAT32. I have no other (Windows) computer. What do I do?

You can format any drive to FAT16 with newfs_msdos Command

1) Launch Terminal

2) Find The Drive you Want to Format

#mount
/dev/disk2 on / (hfs, local, journaled)
devfs on /dev (devfs, local, nobrowse)
/dev/disk4s1 on /Volumes/USB_Disk (msdos, local, nodev, nosuid, noowners)

In this case, my disk is disk4.  Your disk will most likely be different!  Be sure to reference the correct disk - you can and will lose your data if you format the wrong drive!!!

3) Unmount the disk

#diskutil unmountDisk disk4
Unmount of all volumes on disk4 was successful

4)  Format the drive

#sudo newfs_msdos -F 16 /dev/disk4

After a few moments, your drive will format.

5)  Remount the drive (optional)

#diskutil mount /dev/disk4

It will probably show up as "NO NAME" on your Desktop.  You can rename it here or to do it at the time of formatting use -v Type in a Volume Name when you format the drive.

Why so hard to explain things, it is the main reason why many new users get away from linux.

Just do  mkfs.vfat -F16 /dev/sdb(x) if you want to name the USb, flash, etc... put this in addiction -n (name), then it looks like this:

mkfs.vfat -F16 /dev/sdb(x) -n (name) and hit enter.


How to block pop-up ads On some sites, when I click on a button a pop-up appeared, taking me to another website. The original website is still there, just that a new tab with ad site is opened and that interrupted my workflow. I had both enabled Adblock Plus (no whitelists) and disallowed pop-ups and redirects in the website setting (Google Chrome), but  the pop-ups are not stopped. How can I prevent them?

System: macOS High Sierra 10.13.6
Browser: Google Chrome 72.0.3626.119

The simplest solution is to press Command+W to close the pop-up tab and return to previous tab. I use uBlock Origin as ad-blocker for my browser, I would suggest to you to use it too. Other more complex solution is to learn how to use uMatrix for blocking these annoyances.

In Safari you would need to start Safari while holding the Shift key, then empty all caches.
This may work in chrome also, try it.