How can I change OS X Double-Click on Title Bar to be like Windows? I love my Mac eternally but there is one thing I miss from my former Windows days. When I want to toggle between maximize and restore window, on Windows I would double-click the title bar, and that would invoke the toggle.

However with older versions of OS X, a double click on the title bar causes the window to minimize, forcing me to hit F10, then locate the minimized window, then click on it. Too many steps.

Is there any way to make OS X perform the toggle on double-click?

Update July 2020 - macOs Catalina 10.15:

Choose Apple menu  > System Preferences, then click Dock.
Select check box Double-click a window’s title bar to zoom

3. Double click on window's title bar to maximise the window.

zoom: Expands a window to fill the space between the Dock and >the menu bar.
If the Dock is along the side of the screen, the window >fills the >space below the menu bar and to the side of the Dock.

macOs versions upto High Siera:
Its old question , but still if it helps anyone.
You need following 2 in order to maximise your window when clicked on title bar:

Go to Apple icon > System Preferences > Dock >
Select "Double-click a window's title bar to" "Zoom"

Shift + Double click on title bar to maximise the window.

Cheers

shift double click works perfectly!! make sure 'click title bar' is set to "zoom"


My iPhone charge percentage jumps dramatically So sometimes my phone will be at 20%, and it'll die before going lower. Just now, it was at 4%, so I plugged it in, and it went up to 11%. After waiting 60 seconds, it's up to 34% now and has sat at 34% for the past minute or so.

What is wrong with my phone? It hasn't always been like this.

Non smooth charging or consumption indicates a hardware failure - usually battery related. If it's in warranty - that usually ends up the first attempt to remedy the symptom.

just disable finger print scanner or delete finger prints if you have any.


Game sounds won't play on iPhone 6 I have an iPhone 6 with up to date software. But every time I open a game, the music or sounds won't play. At first, I thought it was the problem with games, but I checked each of their settings and the music is on. So I turned the volume up on my phone, but it won't play. The volume works for my music apps or video apps just not for my games.

Any advice would be great.

Try turning off silent switch and turning up ringer volume.


Yosemite broke Dropbox toolbar shortcut to reveal files in Finder I just updated to Yosemite, and now I cant access newly added files through the dropdown menu the Dropbox icon in the toolbar provides.

Previously it was possible to reveal a newly added file in finder if a file on the dropdown list was pressed(See picture) But now nothing happens!

Am I the only that has this problem?

Here is how I solved it:

Restart finder via terminal command or just reboot (copy/paste into Terminal: killall Finder && open /System/Library/CoreServices/Finder.app)
Finder >  Go tab > Go To Folder
Drag DropBox to the left favorite column

Works!

I had the same problem too. It says it is updated but the files that I uploaded at Finder do not appear in dropbox.com. So i went to pause the sync button and sync them back again. And now it works!


iTunes remembers my friend's iPhone from when he plugged it in to recharge Every time my friend's iPhone is on the same WiFi network, iTunes asks me if I want to update his phone's OS and then later asks if I want to update his carrier profile or something like that. How can I keep this from happening?

I'm on Mavericks, and this previous question doesn't help and this Mavericks specific question seems to be asking for something different.

His device does not appear in iTunes > Preferences > Devices, but does show up in File > Devices (even when he isn't on the same WiFi network)

New Information:
It seems like his device appearing in File > Devices was just because that menu keeps the last device connected around. Now that my phone has connected it is the only device in that menu.

Make sure 'Sync with this device over WIFI' in the summary tab is not selected.


Difference between filename and . filename in macOS terminal I'm newbie to MacOS. (I'm using mac OS high sierra 10.13.6)
I installed a software. They said to initialize the software by

. /path/setsas.sh

I give no thought to . and space, so I just ran

path/setsas.sh

It seemed to run, but after that I couldn't execute any command of the software.
I found that I should have ran the command as it were, and after that it was fine.
So what these . and space mean here, and any guess why I couldn't execute any command at first even though file seemed to run?
I know that . sometimes mean current folder, but it doesn't look like it in this case.

. /path/setsas.sh loads the variables and functions from the script into your current shell session.  It's the same as running source /path/setsas.sh.  Running path/setsas.sh on the other hand spawns a new process.  The variables and functions will not be accessible from your current shell.  That's why the commands weren't working for you.

When you "simply enter a command," OS/X (like any Unix/Linux) uses the $PATH environment variable to specify the locations to be searched to find it – unless it is a built-in bash/shell command.

When you specify ./command, that's an explicit reference to a particular file in a particular directory – "the 'current' one."  $PATH is not used, and the command is not considered to be "built-in."

Likewise, ~/command is an explicit reference, this time using "~" as a shortcut to "my home directory."  Once again, $PATH is not used.

(Unrelated ...)  The source shell-command requires a specific reference to a file, and it causes the shell to read and execute all of the commands in that file.  (For instance, if you change your "bash profile" file and want to incorporate it without logging-in again, this is one way to do that.)


Can I use an unlocked AT&T iPhone 4 with european sim cards? Moving to Austria in two weeks. AT&T is going to unlock my phone for me before I leave since my contract is in good standing with them.

Will I be able to use my iPhone 4 with European carrier sim cards once I get there?

iPhone 4 supports four GSM frequencies (850, 900, 1800, 1900 MHz). Phones like these are usually referred to as "quad-band" or "world-phones", because of these frequencies, most carriers around the world will support one or more of them.

Once unlocked, you should be able to use it pretty much anywhere that has a GSM network. You won't be able to use it on carriers that use CDMA networks as that's a different type of wireless radio entirely.

CDMA doesn't use SIM cards, so that's an easy way to tell them apart.

One other thing you should keep in mind is that iPhone 4 uses a micro-SIM. If your European provider doesn't provide micro-SIMs, you'll need to take a regular sized SIM and cut it to size.

Due to the popularity of the iPhone outside the US, even in countries where it's sold only on the gray market, it's pretty easy to find small cellphone vendors that can do this for you.

Just a heads-up: I unlocked my iPhone 4 (using AT&T's unlocking service) but found that it does not function with the Vodaphone simcard I bought in Greece. I hear that there are two kinds of unlocking, one for domestic service and one for international (GSM) service.


Is There An Alternative To Symbolic Links? I have an iMac and a MacBook Pro, both running the latest version of mavericks.. I want to sync files and folders outside Dropbox across the two computers. Up until now, I've been using symbolic links which I created via terminal. I've found that the symbolic links stop working after a while and I was wondering if there was a better way of syncing data between computers.

PS: I use Dropbox as part of it. For example if I want to sync mamp databases across two machines, on my iMac I find the db folder, create a symbolic link for that folder, move it into dropbox, go to my MacBook and make a symbolic link of the db folder that's in Dropbox and move it into the mamp folder, delete the current db folder and replace it with the db symbolic version. That's what I want to achieve, I want to be able to sync folders outside Dropbox through Dropbox if that makes sense.

There are are a range of third party tools for synchronising files across two or more computers. You mention already using DropBox.

DropBox is designed to sync only one folder. Using symbolic links is a great work around but as you have experienced, the approach is likely to be fragile as it is not the focus of DropBox's developers.

Consider using another synchronising approach that can handle multiple shared folders across your Macs.

Unison File Synchronizer

A stalwart of the file-synchronization world, Unison is designed for keeping two or more computer's files in sync. It deals with edge cases and is aimed at those needing more than just a routine copy between computers.

  Unison is a file-synchronization tool for Unix and Windows. It allows
  two replicas of a collection of files and directories to be stored on
  different hosts (or different disks on the same host), modified
  separately, and then brought up to date by propagating the changes in
  each replica to the other.

BitTorrent Sync

BitTorrent Sync is relatively new and claims to need no cloud and share no private information.

  Your information stays yours.

  Sync never stores your files on servers, so they stay safe from data
  breaches and prying eyes.

AeroFS

Another new comer is AeroFS. For private use a free plan is available. I am not sure how applicable this option will be, but it may offer more options, such as multiple shared folders, than currently offered by DropBox.

  Dropbox behind the corporate firewall.

  File Sync and Share, for the Enterprise, deployed behind your firewall

rsync

rsync is a command line tool included with OS X. You can use rsync to synchronise file systems with relative ease. Setting up rsync requires a scheduling tool such as launchd, cron, or Power Manager but once done it is extremely reliable.

Try wml, it uses Facebook's Watchman to listen to changes in one folder and copied changed files to another.


An error occurred while moving messages to mailbox “(null)” I just moved my IMAP email from one server to another and now while I'm trying to delete any emails, Mail produces the following error:

  An error occurred while moving messages to mailbox “(null)”.

I Google'd for it and found a lot of folks out there who are having the exact same issue but was not able to find solution.

Try selecting the Trash mailbox (folder) and then the menu item:

Mailbox → Use This Mailbox As → Trash Mailbox

Unsure if you've resolved the issue but I've just had the same problem and fixed it.

Select the trash folder in your new email account. Click 'Mailbox' from the toolbar and 'Use this mailbox as', then click on trash.

Solved it straight away :)


Restored iOS 10 with broken Home button I restarted my iPhone 6 running iOS 10 and the home button is broken, so I was using Assistive Touch. But at the first launch, Assistive Touch is disabled.
On iOS 10, we have to "Press home button to unlock".
What can I do?

There is a way to unlock an iPhone running iOS 10 that has a broken home button and no access to Assistive Touch. Try the following:

On your Lock Screen, swipe right.
You should see the Search field at the top.
Type Settings in the Search field.
Your 'top hit' should be the Settings app. Tap on this.
You should now get the Touch ID or Enter Passcode screen.
Enter your passcode.
You should now see your settings.
Go to General -> Accessibility -> Assistive Touch and turn it on.
Also, while your still in the Accessibility settings, scroll to and tap the Home Button setting
Change the Click Speed and/or Rest Finger to Open settings to see if that also helps.

Good luck!

If you connect the phone to iTunes on a mac you can turn on VoiceOver from the Accessibility Settings there, then double-tap on text and tap again to enter it.

Idea from https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/303020/288316


Can an iOS app that has access to Photos get all my photos? Can a developer collect my photos that I edited and saved in my iPhone album?

One of the function of the an app I am using is to edit photos and save them to my iPhone's album. In this case, can the developer collect my edited photos?

I did not upload any photos, nor did I share them with anybody.

Also, there is no mention of collecting user's content in the privacy policy of the said app.

Can anyone help me with this?

Yes, if you give the application access to your photos and the application has network access, the photos can be taken from your iPhone.

Only use apps you trust

If you do not trust the developer, do not install or use their applications.
If the developer is not clear and explicit about how they handle your photos, do not install or use their applications.
If the developer is not contactable or does not answer your questions, do not install or use their applications.

Does the app require network permissions? Photo editing can be done locally, without network access (at least, in theory). So, if the app doesn't need network permissions, it may be safer to use, in the sense that it would not be able to communicate with a server outside your phone, so cannot transmit your photos or data about your photos, to any server.


Screen remains on after bringing it to my ear during a call While in a call with the phone at my ear the touch screen stays active instead of going off which I am sure it always used to do.

What is now happening is I keep activating the mute or hold button during calls.

This never happened before.  Any tips?

Either the software isn't seeing the proximity sensor or your hardware needs a repair.

I have had good luck testing the phone immediately after a normal reboot (slide to power off and letting it shut down) Then place the phone flat on the table, press sleep/wake to power it on and once it starts - just call 611 or another free call before starting any apps. Place your whole hand over the top half of the glass and play with the sensor that is near the receiver / front camera to see that the screen goes on and off as designed.

Restoring the phone (and sometimes setting up as new) is needed to reset the software when it fails. Calling or going to an apple store for assistance or repair is the next step once you've decided it's not fixable from simple software.

Was facing the same problem as soon as i put a tempered glass screen on it. Solved the issue after the removal.


Should I be able to run disk utility on my Time Machine Backups? Been having issues with Time Machine and backup so I ran disk utility on all my drives: iMac drive, iomega external HD and Time Capsule. When I run on Time Capsule I am getting a failure and this message:

  Updating boot support partitions for the volume as required.
  Unable to mount volume for repair.
  Operation failed…

Time Machine says "last backup Nov 25, 2015." Can't figure out what is going on. Does anyone have any suggestions?

TimeMachine is rock solid. I have used it extensively and exclusively since it came out at on many different machines and have never lost any data. Like any backup system, it is only as reliable as the person using it. You need to have multiple disks rotated at regular intervals. Time Capsule is just one Time Machine disk, so don't confuse the two. You need additional Time Machine backups on other disks. Unfortunately all disks fail eventually. If it says that the last back was a certain date then that is what you have.

You do not want to fix it but understand what is going on?
There are several components to this answer.

Time Machine is unreliable software. It has failed so often for so many people. Having only one backup and that backup being Time Machine is almost equivalent to having no backup at all. Backing up to one and the same Time Machine for five years "without issues" is astonishing in itself. Time Machine reliability seems to get worse over time: one example to move away from pure opinion. Lesson: do not rely solely on Time Machine.
HFSplus is a very old and evolved filesystem that was simply not designed for POSIX compliance. Hardlinks being a requirement for that and Time Machine. Apple's implementation for that is highly non standard and added on as an afterthought. Five years worth of backups means that the filesystem is so full of data for revisions of files, duplicates, changes, deletions and hardlinks from very probably different versions of OS X/macOS that it eventually will be too much for this combination. Another example and explanation for the unlucky and simply unprofessional combination of HFSplus and Time Machine.
Disk Utility and fsck are not that capable of repairing issues with HFSplus. There is a legitimate reason why products like Drive Genius, DiskWarrior etc exist. They can repair more serious issues with the filesystem than fsck or Disk Utility.
Apart from those systematic reasons there is of course the most simple possibility: unfortunate things do happen. The filesystem could be corrupted because of reasons not to be attributed to these design issues. Bit flips, bit rot, hardware problems like bad sectors etc. An age of five years (at least that) isn't exactly young for a drive.

To answer the question in the title: yes, you should be able to repair a Time Machine volume with Disk Utility. Problem being that sometimes you simply can not.
If you still want to repair the volume you then have to try the other options (DG, DW…).
If you want that data back, try to restore it to a big enough volume. Revisions might get lost that way. Or try to copy that volume via rsync or dd to another volume, then copy/restore that back to a freshly formatted Time Capsule.


What are the disadvantages of jailbreaking iPhone 4 even if it's legal? What are the disadvantages of jailbreaking the iPhone 4 even if it's legal? I'm interested in disadvantages in any and all terms, but especially about the warranty, future updates of iOS, and bricking?

Will I have to jailbreak after each iOS update?

Disadvantages:

Potential reduced stability of the iDevice

More-than-usual application crashes
Unusual application behavior
Buggy connections (like WiFi), especially on beta releases of jailbreaks. (In other words: wait until the people who write the jailbreak say it is ready for regular use. Otherwise, expect occasional pain.)

Potential failure of application features

Most notably of late was the issue that iBooks would lock users out of DRM'd material if they were jailbroken. It could determine this by attempting to run unsigned code, which if it ran, would let iBooks know the device was jailbroken. A hack was released later to resolve the issue, but there is always the chance another application will also implement such features.

Inability to receive Apple support

Apple doesn't want to support any jailbroken device (nor should they be required to do so). If you run into something critical, restore/upgrade to an unjailbroken state first, at which point Apple should be able to help. (Although chances are very good the particular problem will also have gone away.)

Increased Memory Load

On the iPhone 4 it isn't as obvious, but it is (IMO) very obvious on the iPad 1 -- when you add services that must always be running (e.g., SBSettings, etc.) you increase the memory load on the device. Apps that were previously very close to running out of memory may do so when they least expect it, leading to unexpected crashes. This isn't particularly the fault of the jailbreak itself -- but typically one doesn't jailbreak and then not install other jailbreak-specific apps.

Increased Likelihood of Strange Behaviour after iOS upgrades

Example: I had a 5-row keyboard installed on my iPhone 4. After I upgraded to 4.3.2, I ran into an immediate problem: whenever I needed my keyboard, most of it didn't appear, and most of it didn't work. Apparently parts of the 5-row keyboard configuration had stayed around after the upgrade, and the only fix was to go into General -> Keyboards and switch to the English keyboard. (At the time there was no untethered jailbreak for 4.3.2, or I would have continued the jailbreak, which likely would also have restored keyboard functionality.)

Increased Security Concerns

Jailbreaking can oft mean adding software that hasn't been through Apple's vetting process, which may make it easier to get malware or other software that does "bad things".
If you add SSH functionality, be sure to change the root and mobile passwords; otherwise you'll get hacked in no time flat.
On the other hand, you can also sometimes get increased security. IIRC, there was a Cydia app that was used to add security to the device (essentially something Apple should have done, but hadn't to that point).

Personally, the pros of jailbreaking far outweigh the possible cons. I've had far more strange behavior than typical for an iDevice, yes, but I also expect it and know how to deal with it. Some features are such that I really expect that Apple should have implemented them to begin with, and sometimes Apple does occasionally remove one or two particular jailbreaking reasons. But until they satisfy my (very) long list of jailbreaking features, I'll keep on doing it.

I jailbreaked my Iphone4 by Evasi0n and installed Siri by Cydia,It was installed correctly but after I enabled Siri it was rebooting again and again but only the apple logo was appearing and the screen did not appear and I was not satisfied with the Jailbreak and I connected my Iphone4 to my mac and it recognized the Iphone4 and I restored it via Itunes and it became ready to use again


Can I use an iPad charger with my iPhone 4? Is there any harm in using the iPad charger for iPhone 4?

The iPhone simply won't draw as much through the charger as the iPad would. Certainly shouldn't cause a problem at all (and my money's where my mouth is because we just have the iPad charger plugged in these days, using it for our iPad as well as our 2 iPhone 4s - we've been doing this for about 5-6 weeks now without any obvious ill-effects).

yo can charge an iphone using an ipad charger but it will charge quicker and ultimately reduce the battery life

Best advice is use the supplied charger that was with your device


Navigating forward/backward in Microsoft Word? I have a Word document with internal links (i.e. a link will jump to anchor in the same document). When I click on one of these links, it jumps to that location, as it is supposed to.

How can I get back to the location I was at before I clicked the link? I can't find a back or forward button anywhere.

Also, if I'm in Outline view, it changes the view to Print Layout. Is there any way to have the back button also switch the view back to how it was originally? In other words, I'm looking for a way to undo the link click.

I'm using Microsoft Word 2011 (for Mac).

Use Shift + F5 to return to the last edit location in the document

The answer for Windows is to press Alt + LEFT ARROW. Perhaps the Mac has something very similar to the Alt button?


How to store proxy credentials on macOS so they are used by system services? I'm using macOS Sierra 10.12.6 behind a corporate NTLM proxy. My browser and other applications are using the system proxy settings, in which I have saved my username and password for authenticating with the proxy. This is working fine.

There is a persistent problem with system services that try to access information on the internet and don't see to have access to the proxy credentials in my user account. I see the following popup every couple of minutes, and whatever I do (updating my credentials in System Preferences, or pressing "Not Now"), the popup keeps coming up again and again:

The text in the popup reads:

  Proxy Authentication Required

  Enter the password for the HTTP proxy http://xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx:yyyy in System Preferences.

What can I do to stop this popup from appearing?

Things I have tried so far:

Updated my credentials in System Preferences (Network > Advanced > Proxy)
Copied the credentials entries from my login keychain to the System keychain, since I read a recommendation for that in a blog post or forum question.

None of these has worked, I get this popup every couple of minutes, and there does not seem to be a pattern to when it shows up.

Update 1:

As soon as I enter my credentials by clicking the System Preferences button in the above dialog (which I can force by e.g. opening Safari and starting to type a URL in the location box), two records are created in the login keychain, both with identical content:

  @ xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx (username)    Internet Password     Today, 09:10    --    login

Both records look identical, with the same name and attributes. Both show that the application that requested this is AuthBrokerAgent:

Update 2:

I've also tried this suggestion: https://discussions.apple.com/message/23848961#message23848961, copying the authentication entries from the login keychain to the system keychain and then rebooting, but it did not fix it. In fact, the dreaded "Proxy Authentication Required" box showed up again while typing this...

Update 3:

I've used Wireshark to take a look at the traffic between my machine and our proxy:

The proxy returns with a 407 Proxy Authentication Required and Proxy-Authenticate: NTLM, which is in line with my expectation, since our proxy uses NTLM.
Some examples I've seen in the traffic (e.g. iCloud) then send back an NTLMSSP_NEGOTIATE response.
The proxy comes back with an NTLMSSP_CHALLENGE request
The service responds with NTLMSSP_AUTH and my username, which it must have gotten from somewhere.
The proxy finally responds with a 200 Connection established

To me, this shows that in general the proxy authentication works fine, if the system can get the username and proxy from somewhere. The question remains how/where to store the username/password so that all system services can find it. Some system services (I assume) don't have any means to find the proxy credentials where I'm currently storing them.

This is most likely expected behavior if your system/network administrator has configured the proxy force authentication that requires more than just a basic authentication scheme.
From Microsoft's page Handling Authentication under About HTTP Authentication section:

There are two general types of authentication schemes:

Basic authentication scheme, where the user name and password are sent in
cleartext to the server.
Challenge-response schemes, which allow for a
challenge-response format.

Challenge-response schemes enable more secure authentication. If a
request requires authentication using a challenge-response scheme, the
appropriate status code and Authenticate headers are returned to the
client. The client must then to resend the request with a negotiate.
The server would return an appropriate status code with a challenge,
and the client would then require to resend the request with the
proper response to get the requested service.

If the proxy you are using utilizes the basic authentication scheme, what's saved in your keychain will suffice to authenticate you.  If a challenge response scheme is being used, you will most likely have to provide more info - in this case - re-enter your password - to authenticate; and this is what you are seeing.
NTLM Authentication Process
This is much more than just storing credentials.  The client must generate a response based upon a generated request from the server.  Following is a very abridged description of the authentication process from the client/server perspective per  Microsoft's documentation

The client sends the user name to the server (in plaintext).

The server generates a 16-byte random number, called a challenge or nonce, and sends it to the client.

The client encrypts this challenge with the hash of the user's password and returns the result to the server. This is called the
response.

The server sends the following three items to the domain controller:

User name
Challenge sent to the client
Response received from the client

The DC validates the encrypted challenge and response.  If authenticated, access is granted.

The third step above, requires the client to hash a random number it got from the server.  This inherently means there's nothing to be stored on your macOS client.
At a very minimum, you need to be joined the Active Directory domain.  This means you need Kerberos support enabled and configured properly for your specific organization.
There's a key phrase in the "Handling Authentication" document I linked above:

If authentication is required, the INTERNET_FLAG_KEEP_CONNECTION flag
should be used in the call to HttpOpenRequest. The
INTERNET_FLAG_KEEP_CONNECTION flag is required for NTLM and other
types of authentication in order to maintain the connection while
completing the authentication process. If the connection is not
maintained, the authentication process must be restarted with the
proxy or server.

(Emphasis mine)
Based on your the symptoms being presented it appears that your organization requires authentication to the proxy; your username/password are valid, but it keeps (re)asking for authentication.  It's probably because you are losing the connection state and having to do this all over again.  Which further emphasizes the point....
To solve this issue, you will need to contact your network admin to assist you with the authentication issues.

Run the following command from Console.app:

networksetup -setwebproxy "Your Interface Name" "web proxy hostname or IP"
8080 on username password

You will be asked about keychain access. Agree to add the record into keychain and you will have an access without the password all the time when your keychain is open.


Macbook Pro Retina suddenly stopped mounting Huawei USB modem I recently bought a MacBook Pro Retina. The first day I was able to connect my Huawei E352 3G USB modem and it worked all the day. After a couple of day I needed 3G connection again, but my MacBook Pro Retina does not recognize the modem anymore. There is a micro SD card in it, and it also does not mount. The modem works with my iMac flawlessly. All the MacBook Pro Retina USB ports work flawlessly, and recognize any other devices (pen drive, Blu-Ray writer, USB 3 external hard drive).

Any ideas as to why the modem doesn't work anymore?

The issue is probably that by pulling out the modem without safely ejecting it first, the MicroSD card became corrupted and/or the modem itself was damaged.

The simplest and quickest fix may be, unfortunately, to get a new modem.

The Huawei modems are terrible. But regarding your problem, I've had it too, and the good news is that there is an easy fix. Provided it's visible in Disk Utility, open Disk Utility and select your device and run Verify and Repair Disk permissions. Run both the root and the sub disk.


If I purchase an app for my iPhone can I download it for free on my iPad? If I purchase an app for my iPhone can I download it for free on my iPad?

Yes. Purchases are tied to your iTunes Account, not to the device.

iTunes purchases are tied to your account. The current policy (January 2011) is that you can download apps for free once you've downloaded them the first time. Music and movies do not have this courtesy.

That said, if you purchase an app with your iTunes account on your iPod, you can log into that account on your computer, iPhone, or iPad and download it again.

Good luck!


Samsung Easy document Scanner won't communicate with scanner on OS X Catalina 10.15 After upgrading to Catalina OSX 10.15 Easy Document Creator can no longer connect to the remote scanner. It shows up within settings and can be addressed directly but not over the EDC software anymore.

The error reads:

"Scanner device is not responding. Please check that it is turned on and connected to computer".

Easy Printer Manager though shows the printer and its toner level etc.

Is there any fix for this? I know that Scan Assistent is 32 bit but that software was not needed anymore and OSX did not complain about EDC so in theory it should work.

In Samsung Easy Printer Manager also if I try to change the settings I get "Current input language cannot be accepted for device. Please change input language"

That is because Easy Document Creator uses several apps underneath and not all are 64-bit, as required by Catalina.

One of them is Select Scanner.app (in /Applications/Samsung/Samsung Easy Document Creator.app/Contents/Resources/Select Scanner.app), which is 32-bit for Intel and PowerPC (!).

The other one, with the same problem, is ICCUpdater.

There's nothing you can do; only bug HP to publish updated version.

Meanwhile, to be able to scan at all, use Image Capture or Preview (File, Import...). Just make sure that the scanned file is OK, the Apple drivers seem to be broken too; for example, I cannot scan in color into PDF, the resulting PDF is broken (Samsung M2070w). B/W PDF is fine, so is color JPG.

Re-create Bluetooth plist file on Mac

Open Finder on Mac. Next, Go > Go to Folder > type “/Library/Preferences/” and Open.
Find, com.apple.Bluetooth.plist file and Delete it.

Now, Reboot your Mac to refresh Bluetooth settings.

Above mentioned solutions have worked 99% of the case.

Let me know how it goes for you.


Audio Player with Gapless Playback I'm looking for an (preferably free) audio player on OS X that supports gapless playback.  It doesn't need to be fancy, I don't need any bells and whistles.  I just want gapless playback.  Unfortunately VLC doesn't support this, and though I've tried about half a dozen other players, none of them seem to implement this, or if they do I don't know how to enable it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I'd also like to avoid iTunes if at all possible since I organize my music by folder and the ID3 tags aren't necessarily up-to-date... and I generally hate iTunes.

Vox | Cog

Both do gapless, Vox being the one I use.

There are multiple applications which can serve you these features. foobar2000 for starters and also Megaseg.


Photos album disappeared I am using iPhone 5 (32GB) updated to iOS 8.1.2.
Recently I opened the Photos app and saw that my all albums are gone but the photos are still visible in Moments.

I checked my iPhone Usage section but found out that my photos are on iPhone with space taken of 2.2GB.

I had all photos on my iPhone before sometime but after sometime all my photos were disappeared.

I have tried to force close the photos app, hard reset the device but non of them worked for me. I need some solution to this problem because it is really frustrating.

The only way to solve this problem is to completely backup all the data of phone from iTunes and 3rd party software's such as "Syncios" etc. You may use Cloud storage to save all your photos to them but not to iCloud. Now you would need to restore the phone from iTunes so that every file get refreshed. This will finish all the data now by turning on cloud services you can store your photos back to Camera Roll and they would work as it need to work. Contacts can also be brought back by iCloud or syncing from iTunes.

Do not restore backup from iTunes or iCloud as it has all problems

You can get Game scores from Game center but be carefull I was not able to get my Temple Run 2 gems and score back on phone but my record in on Gamecenter.
You would now do a fresh backup of iPhone using iTunes or iCloud but don't restore previous one

Now its up to you wether you continue using your phone as it is or solve the problem by this way. Try to avoid using icloud photos if you don't know much about it because it was the root cause of my problem

Any future queries I would be willing to answer them.

Deplete your phone's battery to 0% then wait 10 minutes before charging it. Once it turns on check to see if your albums are back.


Iphone "shortcuts" for wifi / 3g / localization the iPhone may be a real battery hog and sometimes having the battery last till evening is hard. The obvious tips are turning localization, bluetooth, wifi, 3g and so on off. The problem is that this requires a lot of tipping. For example, if I just want to turn 3g off because i'm not browsing or something, I have to tap Activate -> Unlock -> Setting -> General -> Network -> 3g.

One really cool feature of Android is that you can simply swipe down (the gesture that in the new iOS 5 shows the center message) and you have all the icons for turning features on / off. Moreover, every mobile phone has different "modes" that you can activate with a few clicks and that encapsulate a set of settings. On the iPhone you just have sound on / off and the radical "aeroplane" mode.

Is there a way (shortcut, setting, app...) to set up different modes? For example, most of the times I just need to use the iPhone for messages and calls and receive pushes (mails) but not using 3g, but I want to reactivate all the features if I need to look up something on the internet or check something nearby with an app and I don't want to do dozens of clicks just to reactivate the localization, searching for networks and re-enable 3g. Thanks

Yes, Apple has added some URL shortcuts for these functions and Jeff Broderick (blog at http://brdrck.me/ ) has assembled a nice dashboard of these shortcuts with gorgeous icons to save the web clips to the home screen of your iOS device.

Wifi toggle from http://brdrck.me/settings/wifi

Simply browse your iOS device to http://brdrck.me/settings/ and pick from the many web clips that he has assembled. These are basically the same as taking a web site in the iPhone configuration utility and adding it to your home screen with a nice icon. I don't see one set up for Localization/International or 3G but will poke around to see if I can figure out the syntax to get those sorted for you.

Unfortunately there is no way to do this on any version of iOS as of iOS 5. You can however jailbreak and achieve this functionality through various applications from cydia such as "SBSettings" etc...


How to access a newly mounted DMG from VMWare Fusion (Windows 8.1)? I'm running Windows 8.1 on VMWare Fusion, on top of OS X 10.8.5.

I have some DMG files on Mac that I mount sometimes to work with.
These are some encrypted data folders.

Can I access them from the virtual machine when I mount them?

Example: VM is running, Windows is running inside. Then I go to MacOS and mount a DMG. Next moment, a new drive (or folder) appears in Windows... without needing to restart the virtual machine.

Is this scenario possible?

I don't think this is possible without some special software in the windows vm. The dmg  is analogous to the windows .exe.  In the same way a Mac can not run an .exe, a windows box can not open a dmg.  That being said a software solution like transmac installed in the vm may offer the functionality you seek.

No personal experience with transmac myself.

http://www.acutesystems.com/scrtm.htm

Trasmac features:

-Open Mac format disk drives, flash drives, CD/DVD/Blu-ray media, high density diskettes, dmg and sparseimage files.

-Copy files to Mac disks and dmg images.

-Format for Mac and restore disks and flash drives.

-Create, compress and expand (convert to iso) dmg files.

-Built in burner functionality to burn ISO and dmg files directly to CD/DVD/Blu-Ray.

-Read Mac multisession and hybrid CDs.

Good luck.


How do I switch between Finder tabs with a keyboard shortcuts? Ideally, I'd like to be able to cmd+1 == first tab, cmd+2 == 2nd tab, so on and so forth.

How can I do this?

Thanks!

To move forward (Show Next Tab) through the tabs use the keyboard shortcut ControlTab, to move in the reverse direction (Show Previous Tab), use ControlShiftTab instead.

The first answer is quite excellent. I want to add some more.

If you split different tabs into different windows, than you can use the shortcut Command-`(the button on the left of 1)and Command-Shift-` to switch between windows you’ve got open in your current application.


how to stop password popups I have a new macbook with osx 10.8.2

Every time I want do delete a file, open a downloaded file, and numerous other actions I have to enter my password. Is there a way to turn this off?

That sounds odd, have you tried repairing permissions on Disk Utility? I assume you're the only owner of that macbook.

Anyhow when you try to delete a critical file it will prompt you for your password.

You can also enable the root user:

  sudo passwd root

If you log in as root it won't prompt you anymore but this will give access to any application to your system. This way you'll be vulnerable to all kind of malware including trojans.


How do delete stuck download of Xcode 5 from app store? Initially I was downloading Xcode 5 from the Mac App Store, but I found it extremely slow, and so I stopped the download. Then I downloaded it from the developer web site instead, which was much faster. I installed it without any problem.

But now I have two Xcode 5 icons in my /Applications folder. One Xcode 5 icon is from the Mac App Store install with a progress bar at the bottom (progress stopped at one fourth). I tried to delete it a few times, but every time I restart my machine, it comes back again. How do I delete this partial download?

I am running OS 10.8.5.

It may help to manually remove the Launchpad databases from your home directory. The databases should be located at ~/Library/Application Support/Dock...The files may have UUID names (long string of hex chars)...Removing those files, performing a logout/login (or a reboot) should allow those files to be rebuilt from the exiting applications in /Applications.

You can get into the Library folder by holding down the "Option" key on the keyboard, clicking on the "Go" menu (when you're in the Finder), and choosing "Library".

kill -9 {1..700000} worked, when NO answer anywhere online did.

My computer was fine after, in fact, better. Again, open up terminal and type:

kill -9 {1..700000}

Don't be surprised if a bunch of naysayers start saying that's dangerous. That's just the macbook illuminati. If you have an old macbook, OCD, and don't give AF, let it rip and take time to tell the world about it!


How do I take a screenshot without the shadow behind it? If I take a screenshot with Shift ⇧ + Command ⌘ + 4 + Space, then I get one of the two images:

Either way the saved image is surrounded by the shadow halo. I could then edit it out by hand (using Preview) to discard the shadow, or I could use Shift ⇧ + Command ⌘ + 4 and try to pinpoint the boundary by hand, but neither lets me get a pixel-perfect boundary easily.

Is there a convenient way to save a window without its shadow?

I know this is an old question - but I can never find this information when searching for it (just the information in the accepted answer to turn it off globally), and end up just trying random keys each time.
If you hold option while clicking (after doing the Shift ⇧ + Command ⌘ + 4, Space dance), the saved screenshot will not have the drop shadow.
I'm unsure if this only applies to Mountain Lion and later.

Just hold the Option key while taking a window screen shot.


Can I install apps bought on the Mac App Store on multiple computers? If I buy an app on through the Mac App Store, can I install it on both of my Macs?

I use the same iTunes account on both of them.

Yes. Just run the App Store app on the second Mac and go to the Purchases tab. You'll see a list of the apps you've already purchased, with an Install button next to each one - click the button to install on the second Mac.

No, you cannot. According to my research in the field, it is not allowed, except in North Korea.


Run script/ifttt recipe.... upon notification Either this is impossible, or google is failing me. Ultimately, what I would like to do is push system notifications from my Mac to my iOS device. Google only gives me 1000's of hits for going the other way around. The stopping point seems to be that there is no easy way for me to make script/app that can capture notification events (not script -> notification, but notification -> script/app).

In my research I've found that OS X logs all notifications into an SQL database. While this is a privacy concern, it also seems like an opportunity.

Any suggestions? It's an odd question, but I can't be the only person to have wished for this.

Try Pushbullet (pushbullet.com). This service will sync the notifications from your computer, phone and tablet - it should work both ways. You will need a Google account to sign in.


Can I force a cache refresh in Safari running on iOS? Most Windows desktop browsers utilize the keyboard combination Ctrl + F5 to force a page specific cache refresh. Mac OS X based browsers tend to use Command + R. Is there an equivalent cache refresh for a single page in Safari running on iOS?

I realize I can manually clear the browser cache, but I'd prefer to only refresh for the page I am currently viewing.

Force quit did not work reliably for me in iOS 8. What did is using private mode for testing:

Open the page in private mode (and bookmark it so you can open it later).
When you need to refresh, close browser "tab" (you can stay in Safari and private mode).
Open the page again (use the bookmark you created in step 1).

you can add random number get to the script or link src like :

<link rel="stylesheet" href="css/main.css?rand=<?=$rand;?>" type="text/css" />
<script type="text/javascript" src="js/main.js?rand=<?=$rand;?>"></script>

this forces Safari to reload the file, cause it thinks it is a different file.


Get serial numbers of connected USB devices I'm searching for a terminal command to find out the serial numbers of connected USB devices on macOS computers. Is there any equivalent to the linux command "usb-devices"? I tried "ioreg -p IOUSB" but the output does not contain the serial numbers.

Information about USB Devices is stored differently under Linux then macOS:

In Linux, usb-devices is a bash script that essentially reads a bunch of text files, symlinked to /sys/bus/usb/devices/usb*, that contain information about the USB Devices and formats it in the output you see under Linux.
In macOS, it does not have such a script as it doesn't store the information in the same manner. However, if you want to output information about USB Devices that are enumerated by the OS, in Terminal, then use the following command:

system_profiler SPUSBDataType

If a USB Device has a serial number it will be shown in the output.

As mentioned by Allan in his comment, you can use the following command to minimize the output to include relevant portions of the device information that contain the device name and serial number with a bit of additional info.

system_profiler SPUSBDataType | grep "Serial Number" -B5

Note that doing this does obscure some of the device information as compared to the info outputted by usb-devices, although it may be unnecessary info depending on your needs.

As an example, here is the usb-devices output, in Linux, for an 8 GB USB Flash Drive:

T:  Bus=03 Lev=02 Prnt=03 Port=00 Cnt=01 Dev#=  6 Spd=480 MxCh= 0
D:  Ver= 2.00 Cls=00(>ifc ) Sub=00 Prot=00 MxPS=64 #Cfgs=  1
P:  Vendor=0781 ProdID=5530 Rev=01.26
S:  Manufacturer=SanDisk
S:  Product=Cruzer
S:  SerialNumber=20042214412B1A33690E
C:  #Ifs= 1 Cfg#= 1 Atr=80 MxPwr=200mA
I:  If#= 0 Alt= 0 #EPs= 2 Cls=08(stor.) Sub=06 Prot=50 Driver=usb-storage

Same device under macOS using system_profiler SPUSBDataType:

            Cruzer:

              Product ID: 0x5530
              Vendor ID: 0x0781  (SanDisk Corporation)
              Version: 1.26
              Serial Number: 20042214412B1A33690E
              Speed: Up to 480 Mb/sec
              Manufacturer: SanDisk
              Location ID: 0x1d110000 / 7
              Current Available (mA): 500
              Current Required (mA): 200
              Capacity: 8 GB (8,004,304,896 bytes)
              Removable Media: Yes
              Detachable Drive: Yes
              BSD Name: disk3
              Partition Map Type: MBR (Master Boot Record)
              S.M.A.R.T. status: Not Supported
              Volumes:
                disk3s1:
                  Capacity: 2.97 GB (2,966,634,496 bytes)
                  BSD Name: disk3s1
                  Content: 0x17
                NO NAME:
                  Capacity: 110.1 MB (110,100,480 bytes)
                  Available: 4.1 MB (4,124,672 bytes)
                  Writable: Yes
                  File System: MS-DOS FAT16
                  BSD Name: disk3s2
                  Mount Point: /Volumes/NO NAME
                  Content: DOS_FAT_12
                disk3s3:
                  Capacity: 3.92 GB (3,923,232,768 bytes)
                  BSD Name: disk3s3
                  Content: Linux

Output under macOS using system_profiler SPUSBDataType | grep "Serial Number" -B5:

            Cruzer:

              Product ID: 0x5530
              Vendor ID: 0x0781  (SanDisk Corporation)
              Version: 1.26
              Serial Number: 20042214412B1A33690E

by the way: I found that, if you connect an external hard drive or SSD using an external enclosure or USB to SATA adapter cable, if you use these terminal commands or System Information, you'll see the Serial Number, Product ID etc of the Adapter cable or enclosure itself (probably of the controller chip inside), not the desired SN for the Hard drive or SSD etc.  For example, this picture appears in my Mac Mini > system information when I attached a 250GB Samsung Evo SSD, the info provided corresponds to the The adapter cable, which identifies with a Product ID of 0x0621 and a Vendor ID of 0x1f75 (Innostor Co, Ltd.) which is related to Startech, which is the brand name in Amazon for this USB adapter cable.


Can you unlock a Mac that was locked from Find my iPhone & prevent it from being erased? Okay so quick run down, my Macbook Pro was stolen a few months ago. When it got stolen I immediately enabled the lock feature from Find my iPhone, & after a few weeks of waiting with no answers, I got bitter & also clicked the erase feature. Out of the blue, however, someone called my mother & said they found a computer on the side of the road with her name & number on it. So my mother got it off these people, brought it home while I was away, & turned it on. This brought up the lock screen with the "enter pin" & the message I put on it to the thieves.

So now that I have it back, which I thought was never going to happen or I wouldn't have enabled the erase option, I'm wondering if there's any way to unlock it from this screen but prevent it from wiping the hard drive. I thought about bringing it to an Apple Store before touching it again, but I bought it 5 years ago & don't have the proof of purchase anymore. Yeah it's got my mother's name & number on the bottom, it still shows up in my Find my iPhone, & it has my phone number on the message I put on the lock screen, but I'm pretty sure without a receipt, they can't prove it was mine so they won't be of any help, correct?

If I take it somewhere it can't connect to the internet, will I be able to enter the pin & get into the computer without it starting the wipe, because it'll be offline? Or will it start the wipe anyway immediately after being unlocked? I'm in completely unknown territory here so I'm trying to tread carefully before doing anything else with it. I'd just really like to get my files off of it, because all of my papers from college are on there, as well as personal photos & stuff. Is there any way to unlock it without starting the wipe? Trying to look on the internet is basically hopeless because it's such a specific question, & I'm not entirely sure how the erase feature works. Anyone with knowledge or experience would be greatly appreciated at this point.

According to the literature, what should have happened is that the erase command should have removed the PIN and the message you sent.  Instead, they shouldn't appear and the system should start wiping the drive immediately.  Looks like it didn't get the erase command or wasn't online to receive the command.  I'd AVOID turning it on anywhere it could get online.  Contact Apple support or take it in.  If you have a Time Machine backup, you could try the PIN and restore if necessary.

Yes you have to do nvram reset and install from thumb drive . U might have to do a FileVault level delete through terminal using a uuid of the drive .


Open Finder window from current Terminal location? If I am in a specific path in a Terminal window, how can I open that same window in a new Finder window?

Note: This is the opposite of opening a Terminal from Finder.

Typing open . in Terminal will open the current working directory in a Finder window.

But there is also an alternative version

open `pwd`


How to use SMTP and IMAP with iCloud email? I've never used @me.com or @mac.com emails before. Neither did I use MobileMe.

So when the iCloud came out last night I created @me.com email account this morning. Registration on its own went just fine. Email account was added to Mail.app.

Questions:

How to setup SMTP as Sending emails doesn't work?

In the iCloud email account settings the SMTP account is set to iCloud (iCloud) which occasionally is displayed as iCloud (iCloud, Offline) - this has been set by the iCloud config when creating the @me.com account
The above iCloud SMTP is not listed in the SMTP servers list
Connection Doctor doesn't check the outgoing iCloud setting either - just as if it didn't exist.
According to Apple's KnowledgeBase on iCloud Email the SMTP server is smtp.mail.me.com, but Mail.app reports an invalid SSL certificate

What would be IMAP settings for the new @me.com accounts?

Mainly asking because the settings iCloud config set are not all filled in and are not following the earlier linked support document, e.g.:

username is the <username>@me.com, not the full address
incoming mail server is p06-imap.mail.me.com and it is grayed out
password field is empty

Receiving emails does work though, not sure why

So, any tips on getting the @me.com working properly? All other iCloud services seem to work fine.

Edit

It seems to have started working for me without any tweaks. I simply had it disabled for last couple of days, enabled now and it started working without any intervention on my side.

Interestingly I had a similar problem last night, and I have been using iCloud for some time now. I suspect it was caused by the live switch on iCloud. I simply went to the iCloud preference panel, logged out and logged back in. The new terms and conditions was shown, I accepted, restarted Mail and everything was working.

I suggest trying this first, because manually configuring it can cause problems in future should Apple decide to make changes to the routes.

The IMAP setting for iCloud is available in this Apple support document.

if you want to use Pine or Alpine as a mail client, you have some problems. Here are the correct datas for using iCloud and pine oder every other smtp / imap service.

http://teleschirm.info/150/220/alpine-pine-konfiguration-mit-apple-icloud-mail/#pinerc_config


Lock Screen Command One-Liner I'm trying to find out whether there is any kind of equivalent command line one-liner which replicates the exact identical functionality of the 'Lock Screen' menu option available via the Keychain app in OS X 10.6

I'm aware of the all the 'usual' solutions (sleep/screensaver preferences to require a password on reactivation) but these are not suitable to me.

I'm also aware of this option:

/System/Library/CoreServices/Menu\ Extras/user.menu/Contents/Resources/CGSession -suspend

which is also not suitable for me.

The perfect functionality is the 'Lock Screen' option however I have not yet found an elegant way to call it.

At the moment, I am calling via Automator, which isn't elegant!

I have read much about this issue and my understanding is that no-one has yet found the 'holy grail' but I was wondering whether that might have changed.

In OS X 10.9 and later:

pmset displaysleepnow

By itself, this command only causes the display to sleep, resulting in a black screen. By configuring your computer to require a password immediately after sleep, this one-liner works as a "lock computer" command. The preference is available at System Preferences > Security & Privacy > General.

Source: How to lock screen on MacBook Air?

Ctrl-Shift-⏏ Eject (on older Macs),
Ctrl-Shift-⌽ Power (on newer macs)


MacOS Mojave and Dark Theme - Preview for .png file with transparent background not white Not surprisingly at all, with MacOS Mojave and Dark Theme OS Mode, Preview displays transparent background with gray. How can I set it to be white only for preview but keeping MacOS Dark Mode ?

File opened with Safari which is perfect:

The is to change the default coulor scheme for your dark mode in preview.
MacOS Mojave and Dark Theme - Preview for .png file with transparent background not white


Cannot pause downloading mojave from launchpad Today I started to download macOS Mojave from app store and it appeared in launchpad as usual. When I tried to pause the download by clicking on the downloading icon, it won't pause. I can only delete the download by long press on it. The same thing happened previously when I tried to download High Sierra 10.13.6.

Another way I tried to pause the download from app store but I can only pause the apps but not the OS download.

Is there a way by which I can pause the download?

This topic is quite old, but I found out that connecting my VPN will abort the download. All already downloaded data is then lost.

Maybe this is helpful for others with the same problem.

BR
Cryptos

What it does works is in App Store, you can Pause it there.

Since I just downloaded Mojave, I can not verify your claim.

However, it is possible that App Store has disabled the Pause function in times with high demand, to allow for high bandwidth.


How can I create custom right-click context menu items in macOS? I've been a native windows'er up until this year and have finally made the jump to OS X. I've found my workflow (web developer) has increased substantially and I love the general performance and snappiness of my OSX.

However, I very much miss a few features of windows, one of them being how easy it was to create a new text file. Just right-click->new->text file.

I'd really like to add a "New File" option right under "New Folder" in the right click menu, and just have it make a new file in the selected folder or finder window. On top of that, it'd be really killer to have an "open terminal here" option that would open a terminal window already cd'd into the current working directory.

How can I customize the macOS Finder context menu? I want to add the menu items:

"New File"
"Open Terminal Here"
etc.

I've searched a bit for these but haven't found anything of substance; I could set up a hacky hotkey workaround but that's suboptimal, in my experience. So any recommendations are more than welcome!

This is a bit old, but nothing is drastically different in 10.8:

http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20100509134904820

  This a simple Service for creating new files the currently-open folder in Finder, using AppleScript and Automator.

  Start by launching Automator, and in the chooser that appears, select Service. This will open a new Automator window, set up to create a Service. In that window, do the following:
  Set the Service to receive selected folders in Finder (the two drop-down menus at the top of the work area on the right). This makes it easier to assign a keyboard shortcut to our service, which we'll do at the end.

  Drag and drop the 'Run AppleScript' action (in the Utilities Library) into the work area on the right.

  Paste in the following AppleScript, then click the Hammer icon (to compile the code):

on run {input, parameters}
  tell application "Finder"
    set currentPath to insertion location as text
    set x to POSIX path of currentPath
  end tell
  return x
end run

  Drag and drop the 'Set value of a variable' action from the Utilities Library, and create a new variable called, for example, CurrentFolder. (Do this by clicking on the drop-down menu.)

  Drag and drop the New Text File action from the Text library into the work area. Then drag CurrentFolder from the Variable panel at the bottom of the Automator window to the Where entry of the New Text File action. Click the Options button in the action, and click the 'Show this action when the workflow runs' box. This makes it possible to change the name and extension of the new file.

  Save the service as 'Create New File,' or whatever you like. Test your new action using the Services menu in Finder, to make sure it works (select a folder, Control-click, and you should see your new Service at the bottom of the contextual menu).

  On the Keyboard Shortcuts tab of the Keyboard System Preferences panel, select Services in the left-hand column, and your new service (it should be in the Files and Folders section) in the right-hand panel. Assign a keyboard shortcut to the new Service by double-clicking to the right of the Service's name.

  Switch back to Automator and change the leftmost drop-down menu (at the top of the work area) to No Input, then save the Service again.

System Preferences > Keyboard > Shortcuts > Services

http://templatecinderella.com/opencart-templates.html/Fashionhub-opencart-2.0.3.1.html


Why does my Google Maps app not send location? I have Google Maps installed in my iPhone 6, and I have enabled location history in Google location settings page, but my Google location history page doesn't have records.

How can I turn it on?

Go to;Settings-Privacy- Location Services- Make sure the toggle at the top of the page is "Green/ON"-scroll down to Google Maps and ensure you have checked either "While Using App" or "Always" depending on your preference.

try going to settings - privacy and turn location services on or location services may be somewhere else


Windows 8.1 Boot Camp automatic repair loop After successfully installing Windows 8.1 on my 2010 MacBook, running Yosemite as its primary OS, my Windows OS rebooted 5 minutes after a fresh install and now I'm stuck in the "automatic repair loop". I also get this error after trying to repair:

  The drive where Windows is installed is locked. Unlock the drive and try again.

Also even after I installed the Bootcamp drivers my system was still void of this "boot camp control panel" which leads me to think this maybe a driver issue.

This is the second time I've gotten this issue so I don't think another install will resolve anything.

Is there anything I can do to stabilize my Windows OS and successfully get the Boot Camp control panel to work as well?

If you did not use the Boot Camp Assistant to install Windows, then you likely installed Windows 8.1 in UEFI mode, which neither Apple nor Microsoft support on a Mac.

If you don't want to use the Boot Camp assistant, then the trick here is to have created an empty FAT partition on the drive with Disk Utility BEFORE you attempt to install Windows.  Disk Utility will create a hybrid MBR on the disk, and the presence of the hybrid MBR causes the Mac firmware to use BIOS emulation which is required for Windows to run correctly.

The use of Windows 8.1 in UEFI mode on a Mac is possible, but it's asking for trouble and you should only run it that way it if you really know what you are doing.


How to resolve the "unable to install update" error for OTA iOS updates? For some reason, I keep getting an error when I try to install an OTA update on my iPad. The update downloads without any issue, and I have over 1 GB of space free. I am currently facing the issue with the iOS 5.1.1 update. Screenshot of error below.

I faced this issue with the 5.1 update as well, and ended up using iTunes for the update. I have the 16 GB wifi model of the iPad 2. Restarting the iPad doesn't help either.

My 3rd gen iPod touch has no issues with the OTA updates. This seems to be a common problem, and people have faced it on different devices as well. No one seems to have found a foolproof solution so far on the net.

Is there any fix for this, as the iTunes route is a much heavier download.

if you download updates very soon after Apple releases them, they can sometimes get corrupted because the server is sending you the individual packages at the same time as it it send them to many other people. You may just need to wait a while and try again.


Is there a technical reason not to upgrade a MacBook's RAM past its listed maximum? According to this page, Macbooks are expandable to memories larger (and, in one case, faster) than those released by Apple. Search for "expandable" in that page to see the many cases.

But Apple is keen on bleeding edge technology and specs, which suggests that Apple has a technical reason (odd crashes?) for not offering the largest/fastest memory, not even as an option.

Would you comment on the reliability of notebooks after performing these upgrades (i.e. have you experienced increased crashes / instability)?

Most new Macs have memory that’s not packaged for mechanical installation. The exceptions to this are the MacPro and 27” iMac and Mac Mini with Intel CPU.
If your machine has end user replaceable RAM, anyone that is skilled at troubleshooting bad RAM shouldn't shy away from learning what they give up when they install third party RAM in their Mac.
Basically, you give up having AppleCare or the Warranty cover that part and perhaps them diagnosing a problem they can't reproduce with factory RAM installed.
As you probably know, an intel designed (or influenced) chipset and logic board will often run with more memory than Apple will install in the factory, as an upgrade or even list as "supported" yet reputable memory vendors have been providing details on which machines will run reliably when loaded with high quality RAM that meets the technical requirements if not the marketing requirements from Apple.
I would look to sites like RamJet or Crucial or OWC/MacSales that have covered aftermarket upgrades to Macs for years and have established a reputation for having good warranties and information on determining if a specific RAM configuration is expected to be reliable on a Mac.
You of course may run into issues and bugs where certain chips fail oddly or tuning isn't ideal, but the time you gain in having more RAM often outweighs the time / expense of doing some hardware support if you run into issues and want to swap back in the Apple factory RAM to ensure you're not to blame for any oddities or failures by pushing the line on RAM.

I'm not sure what you're trying to say. Apple gladly charges whatever they want because they can and people will gladly pay them. It's a fairly straight forward concept.

As far as memory goes, there is nothing exotic about memory sold in a multiple of 2. It's actually incredibly standard. Why does Apple not put the most amount of RAM into one of their MacBook Pros then they can is like asking why any computer company doesn't use the best components possible at the time. There are a number of reasons which are not really worth getting into.

And to finally answer your question yes. I've upgraded the memory in every MacBook I've ever owned. As long as you find compatible memory the computer should be fine.


Can I flush, or release, my GPU memory? Running an iMac Pro 10 core, 64GB Ram and 16GB Vega, MacOS 10.14.6. iStat menu (v6.40) is showing a consistent GPU Memory usage between 90% and 100% after I have been using the computer for awhile.

I close out of all programs and the memory does not seem to be released. The only thing that does it is to restart the system.

1) Why is the system not releasing the GPU memory?
and
2) Can I do a manual release to free it up somehow?

There has often been problems with AMD based GPUs and their reporting of video memory usage in iStat Menu. This has in the past been for example always reporting 100% usage, always reporting a climbing usage, etc.

If you haven't got any performance degradation, and your computer usage really isn't affected by this - I would just ignore the readout.

There's no tool to do a manual release - it doesn't really make sense. If the VRAM is actually in use, "manually releasing" it would make programs crash or behave unpredictable - nobody wants that.

If you really want you could probably lower the VRAM usage by logging out, or by killing WindowServer in its entirety. There's just no real reason to do so - unless you're experiencing a performance degradation, and then it would be better to analyze that specifically.

Adjusting the display settings seems to work.


Free Mac database software similar to FileMaker I am used to using FileMaker on a friend's computer, but I don't have it on mine, and at the moment I can't afford to buy it. Is there anything free out there that is similar?

I am in the process of making a database of job applicants on Excel and it is getting rather large and complicated. I like the way you can change from list view to document view on FileMaker.

OS X 10.6.8 Snow Leopard

I feel your pain.  I've not found a single app equivalent to MS Access for the Mac.  There are some decent online services like Zoho Creator (free) and TrackVia (not free) but if you MUST have something very close to Access or FileMaker installed on your Mac natively, I can offer the following suggestion.

On the Mac, you can install and run MySQL.  That'll be your database engine. Installation is beyond the scope here but there's tons of help via Google search.  Alternatively, you can use a separate computer or virtual machine (on your local network) with MySQL installed.
To design new MySQL databases like a pro, download and install the free MySQL Workbench.  http://www.mysql.com/products/workbench/
Building reports as good as FileMaker's or MS Access was a difficult find for a long time until I ran across the free Business Intelligence and Reporting Tools (BIRT) built into versions of Eclipse.  I opted for the development kit version - an enormous 220 meg download, but worth it. Check into it here: http://www.eclipse.org/birt/phoenix/

BIRT can connect to a variety of data sources and is intended as a Java application reporting tool, but it will also render/export reports in a lot of formats including PDF and DOC.  It's every bit as good as the report builder in MS Access.

PLEASE NOTE: BIRT requires a pretty significant learning curve but you will not regret it.  The thing blows my mind all the time because it is so mature of a product.  Like it knows what you want to do. There's lots of tutorials for BIRT on the Eclipse page above.  You'll need them.

If you desire to use a BIRT defined report in a web application, good luck.  I'm not very fluent with the Java web platform. I just haven't had the patience or need.

All in all, this combination of MySQL, Workbench, and BIRT is the closest thing I've come to that makes me feel like I have a good native database on the Mac.

All the best.

MAMP https://www.mamp.info now includes SequelPro, a front end for mySQL. This is a heavy weight solution - setting up an Apache Server and MySQL environment but it is also a simple, free, and effective solution. I used to use Filemaker but I was not using it enough to justify the licence and find Sequel Pro is nice programme to use with the benefit of learning mySQL - and if it does not do everything you need there are plenty of other mySQL front ends.


Extract Camera Roll from iTunes backup I had to restore a friend's iPod because they forget their passcode and they lost their camera roll. I can't restore FROM a backup, as the backup has the forgotten passcode on it.

Anyways, on my Mac I looked under ~/library/application support/MobileSync/Backup to find some hashed folder with a  boatload of hashed files and a couple .plist's saying it was indeed a backup.

My question is- I am sure these photos are in this folder hashed somewhere.. how can I get them out?

Thanks :)

There are third-party applications such as iBackupViewer and iPhone Backup Extractor that will read those backup files.

Also, if by any chance Photostream was turned on, those photos are on somebody's Mac, hiding in

~/Library/Application Support/iLifeAssetManagement/assets/sub

Here I recommend you MyJad iTunes Photo Extractor* to help you extract camera roll you want back.

[*]: Commercial software, trial available.


What are the consequences of using a low-wattage USB-C power supply with a MacBook Pro? This question pertains to USB-C not MagSafe. MagSafe negotiates available power with the Dallas 1-wire protocol. USB Power Delivery (PD) is an unrelated protocol. Answers based on experience with MagSafe are unlikely to be relevant.

I'm considering buying a 2016 MacBook Pro Retina about which this article says:

  the Griffin product was only powerful enough to offer 60W of power, not quite enough for the 87W needed to power the larger Pro models at fully

I'm also considering buying a LG 27UD88-W which it advertised as providing:

  Mobile / Laptop Charging Up to 60W

What are the consequences of using a 60W supply instead of an 87W one?

Does it just mean it will take longer to charge the laptop?

Could it have side effects such as putting parts of the system into a slower, low-energy mode?

This question covers MagSafe power supplies but Charles Duffy's comment suggests that the rules for USB-C may be different.

Apple partnered with LG to create a 4K monitor that outputs 60W via USB-C. Apple has mentioned full compatibility with a 13" MacBook Pro (comes with 61W power adapter) but mentioned that with a 15" MacBook Pro, the battery will get drawn during intensive power usage and therefore it should be connected to its 87W power adapter. No mention of any dangers in doing this.

I am an Apple Certified Mac Technician working for an Apple Authorized Service Provider.

I and my co-workers have seen this occur multiple times. When the MacBook tries to pull more power than the power adapter can supply, it will do one (or more) of three things:

Burn out the power adapter internally
Cause physical burn marks (scorching) on the MagSafe connector
Damage the internal power control circuitry on the logic board

The first two issues are easy enough to fix; you can replace the power adapter and the MagSafe board inside the computer for a (relatively) low amount of money. If the internal circuitry is damaged, you'll be in for a new logic board which can easily be $500 + labour, and Apple will not cover this as it will be considered "accidental damage".

The MacBook Pro 2016s have not been out for very long, and our shop hasn't yet seen the damage that can be caused by under-powering a USB-C charging port. That being said, I expect that much the same symptoms/issues will occur in that case.

As answers on the MagSafe thread state, just get a full-wattage power adapter. Consider the slightly-higher cost as your insurance against needing to replace the logic board in you brand-new 2016 MacBook Pro.


How can I create a script with multi command I tried to create a script on OS X. I do something wrong.
I want to execute 2 command:

defaults write com.apple.finder CreateDesktop -bool true

and

killall Finder

I saved and chmod the file but I got some errors:

/Users/max/Desktop/visible.command ; exit;
MacBook-Pro-de-Maxime:~ max$ /Users/max/Desktop/visible.command ; exit;
/Users/max/Desktop/visible.command: line 1: {rtf1ansiansicpg1252cocoartf1343cocoasubrtf160: command not found
/Users/max/Desktop/visible.command: line 2: syntax error near unexpected token `}'
/Users/max/Desktop/visible.command: line 2: `{\fonttbl\f0\fnil\fcharset0 Menlo-Regular;\f1\fmodern\fcharset0 Courier;}'
logout

Thank you for your help!

You have saved your file as a Rich Text Format file (.rtf)

In TextEdit.app

Open your file and use the Make Plain Text menu to change it to the correct format for coding.

Using anything other than plan text will mean that the file includes formatting code  for styles and such that is visible to the shell layer but not to the user when viewing the file.

For example.

Rich Text Format file with the extension changed is still a rich text file

Reading it from the command line.

$ cat foo.command

{\rtf1\ansi\ansicpg1252\cocoartf1344\cocoasubrtf720
{\fonttbl\f0\fnil\fcharset0 Menlo-Regular;}
{\colortbl;\red255\green255\blue255;\red43\green39\blue19;\red234\green234\blue234;\red37\green127\blue159;
}
\paperw11900\paperh16840\margl1440\margr1440\vieww10800\viewh8400\viewkind0
\deftab720
\pard\pardeftab720

\f0\fs26 \cf2 \cb3 \expnd0\expndtw0\kerning0
defaults write com.apple.finder \cf4 \expnd0\expndtw0\kerning0
CreateDesktop\cf2 \expnd0\expndtw0\kerning0
 -bool true}

Change to plain text and re saved.

Read from the command line.

$ cat foo.command
defaults write com.apple.finder CreateDesktop -bool true

( examples are for illustration only and not how to do the actual coding)

If you're just needing to run any two commands via a script, you can just create something like this, open a text editor and add:

#!/bin/bash
echo foo && echo bar

Save it as foo.sh, then:

$ sh ./foo.sh
foo
bar

The && lets you have two commands being executed, one after another, or you can just put the commands on different lines.

In your case, replace echo foo with defaults write com.apple.finder CreateDesktop -bool true and replace echo bar with killall Finder. You'll probably need to run foo.sh with elevated priveleges using $ sudo sh ./foo.sh since you are changing defaults and killing pids.

You may have to make it executable, too:

chmod +x foo.sh

See https://stackoverflow.com/questions/8409946/how-do-i-make-this-file-sh-executable-via-double-click


cc1plus: no such file or directory (gcc) Issue

Every time I try to compile something with gcc I get this error:

gcc: error trying to exec 'cc1plus': execvp: No such file or directory

What I tried

I have tried uninstalling gcc and re-installing it using brew.

Other Info

I am on a MBP 2015 running Mojave.

Edit 1

$ file $(which gcc)
/usr/local/bin/gcc: Mach-O 64-bit executable x86_64
$ which gcc
/usr/local/bin/gcc
$ gcc --version
gcc (Homebrew GCC 8.2.0) 8.2.0
Copyright (C) 2018 Free Software Foundation, Inc.
This is free software; see the source for copying conditions.  There is NO
warranty; not even for MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.

Edit 2

$ cat > /tmp/foo.c << EOFeof
#include<stdio.h>

int main(void) {
    printf("Hello World\n");
    return 0;
}
EOFeof

gcc /tmp/foo.c -o /tmp/foo
/tmp/foo
gcc: error trying to exec 'cc1': execvp: No such file or directory
zsh: no such file or directory: /tmp/foo

Something is going to be messed up, but with the details given I don't even know where to guess what you have wrong. Instead. let's go the other way and try something super minimal that should show your failure immediately.

Here's a simple end to end test of gcc that ships from Apple should work. I'm using the version that ships with Mojave (ProductVersion:   10.14.3 BuildVersion:   18D109) according to the sw_vers command on macOS.

cat > /tmp/foo.c << EOFeof
#include<stdio.h>

int main(void) {
    printf("Hello World\n");
    return 0;
}
EOFeof

gcc /tmp/foo.c -o /tmp/foo
/tmp/foo

Where I'd start is which actual GCC and version you're running:

Mac:~ me$ file /tmp/foo
/tmp/foo: Mach-O 64-bit executable x86_64
Mac:~ me$ file $(which gcc)
/usr/bin/gcc: Mach-O 64-bit executable x86_64
Mac:~ me$ which gcc
/usr/bin/gcc
Mac:~ me$ gcc --version
Configured with: --prefix=/Applications/Xcode.app/Contents/Developer/usr --with-gxx-include-dir=/usr/include/c++/4.2.1
Apple LLVM version 10.0.0 (clang-1000.11.45.5)
Target: x86_64-apple-darwin18.2.0
Thread model: posix
InstalledDir: /Applications/Xcode.app/Contents/Developer/Toolchains/XcodeDefault.xctoolchain/usr/bin

Then you can repeat the test in your flavor of gcc to suss out the differences or if you even need the bcc that’s not the clang implementation of a gcc like compiler.

What specific error or what specific differences do you have? Feel free to start a new thread or edit / refine your question and then @ me in the comments.


Permanently allow apps downloaded from "anywhere" I want to trust unidentified developers' applications. I've gone to System Preferences > Security & Privacy and tried to enable "Allow apps downloaded from: Anywhere", but OS X claims it will reset my "Anywhere" selection after 30 days of inactivity. Actually, I don't want OS X to make it unusually difficult for me to use my software, ever. Is it possible to make this selection permanent?

It took me some time to figure this out but you can disable it through a global preference using the terminal:

sudo defaults write /Library/Preferences/com.apple.security GKAutoRearm -bool NO

This will disable the auto rearming of the Gatekeeper in OS X. Tested on both Yosemite and Mavericks

Not enough to get the password, you need to change a new one (password) to allow apps downloaded from a particular source can run.


"Verification failed" when trying to update to iOS 8.1.1 because of a network issue I have an iPhone 5s and whenever I try to update it to iOS 8.1.1 it shows the error message below:

  iOS 8.1.1 failed verification because you are no longer connected to the internet.

However, I'm connected to the internet. I tried with 2 Wi-Fi connections.
Any ideas on how to fix this ?


Is it possible to a full system Copy and run it in Parallels? i have Mac Server and i want to have a full copy of the System.
So i can play around and test new Software and Upgrades before i apply it to the real System.
I am using Parallels and want to create a image from the System with the Disk Utility.
But i cannot find any Tutorials to do so.

Is it even possible ?

I don't have experience with Parallels, but if you own an external hard disk, you could clone your Mac Server to this hard disk (e.g. with Carbon Copy Cloner or also OS X Disk Utility).

Then boot from the external disk and try whatever you want to try/install - it will not affect your Mac's internal disk. So once you disconnect the external disk and boot from your internal disk again, everything will be as it was before.


How do I navigate the ribbon in Office for Mac 2016 with the keyboard? In Office in Windows, if you tap "Alt", letters appear all over the ribbon that illuminate how to navigate through it, switching tabs and hitting buttons to do anything that's on there.

How can I do that in Office 2016 for Mac?

Related question about Office 2011, has anything changed?

As of Office 2016, Microsoft has not implemented the Alt-shortcuts for the ribbon.  However, there are several dozen other shortcuts that can be used on the Mac.

You didn't ask for any specific shortcut so I won't list any here.  Also, there are so many that it would be impracticle to list them out.  I know we try to avoid 'link-only' answers but in this case there's no way around it.  Here are a few very comprehensive lists of all the Office shortcuts for Mac, including where you can use the excellent Accessibility features on the Mac:

Alt key shortcuts on Office for Mac
Keyboard shortcuts in Excel for Mac.  These are very similar shortcuts for all Office apps, too.
Accessibility shortcuts in Excel for Mac
Select menu items, like Alt+letter for Word

I recently built a Mac app that enables these alt-shortcuts in Mac Excel. You can download it at https://www.acceleratorkeys.com.
Edit: Noted that the original answer was a little short. I was trying to avoid being overly promotional. If you download the app, you'll find that Excel alt-key shortcuts work exactly as they do on Windows. It works on macOS Catalina, and across Office 2016, 2019 and 365.

Open Accelerator Keys.
Open Excel.
Hit Alt and use the shortcuts.

We're being used by consultants, investment bankers, financial analysts, accountants etc. I built this using Catalina's new accessibility features to control Excel and re-create the alt-key shortcuts on Mac.


Why can't I left click on my Macbook Pro? I have a Macbook Pro (Retina, Late 2012) running OS X El Capitan (10.11.13).

What works:

Secondary click with two fingers
Feel/sound of trackpad click (no noticeable change in the feel of the trackpad)
Three/four-finger swipes/gestures

What doesn’t work:

Primary (i.e. left) click
One finger tapping to click

What I’ve tried:

Toggling System Preferences Trackpad settings
Rebooting
Toggling Bluetooth even though it’s normally off and I don’t own a bluetooth mouse (Can't click with trackpad or mouse (OS X 10.9, MacBook Pro))
Using a USB mechanical mouse (right click worked, left click didn’t)
Switching the Primary mouse button with the USB mechanical mouse connected (Secondary click on the left button worked, Primary click on the right button didn’t)
Reset SMC and PRAM (http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/reset-macs-smc-pram/)
Apple Hardware Test (No results found, could not click “Perform extended testing”)
Booting in Safe Mode
Checking Battery Health ("Condition: Normal” according to System Report; some people have had trouble with their battery bulging)
Laying my Macbook Pro on its side and tapping underneath the trackpad area (https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3097419?start=15&tstart=0)

I’m confused.

I’ve used the Accessibility Options Shortcut (Fn-⌘-⌥-F5) to turn on mouse keys, which I’ve been using for the past week. As fun as it is to toggle mouse keys on and off, I’d really like to get the clicking working. Please help. I will be happy if this has a stupid easy answer.

Let's just say it's a story of unknown Bluetooth interference or a paired Bluetooth device that’s in range of the Mac.

I had this very issue last week on my Early 2013 15' MacBook Pro with Retina Display. Normal (Left) mouse-click wouldn't work under any conditions while running OS X, the built-in Trackpad, Magic Mouse or USB Mouse, while the secondary-click was fine on all.

I booted my MBP with a Linux Mint Live USB Flash Drive and the built-in Trackpad, Magic Mouse and USB Mouse all worked, both normal-click and secondary-click.  So at least I knew the built-in Trackpad, Magic Mouse and USB Mouse hardware was fine and it was looking like a software issue.

As another trouble shooting process I made an OS X USB Flash Drive Installer, figuring it would boot clean and the built-in Trackpad or Magic Mouse would work fine since it worked under Linux, however during the install... no normal-click would work, while the secondary-click was fine.

Turns out my Magic Trackpad, which I was not using and was in the closet, was depressed by a book that fell over on to it.  Because it was connected, even though not in use, it was causing the other clickable devices to fail on the normal-click while the secondary-click still worked.

This drove me crazy for a couple of hours because the book fell when I was not in the room, so I never heard it or suspected the Magic Trackpad to be an issue.  Linux Mint Live USB Flash Drive worked because the Magic Trackpad was not paired to it and therefore couldn't and didn't interfere.  Unlike in OS X it automatically connected.

What a pain it was but who doesn't love a good mystery!

Do you by chance have a Magic Trackpad lying around?

——

Or a Bluetooth mouse in a travel bag - if that mouse is pressed down, you can’t ever get a left mouse up event from any other device.

Go to System Preferences → Accessibility → Mouse and Trackpad. Slow the double click speed.


How can I change the currency on the App Store? I bought my iPhone 4 in France, but since then moved to the US.  I have changed my address, my phone number etc. associated with my Apple ID, but the prices of the apps in the App Store still appear in euros.  This is a problem because I would like to purchase apps using my US credit card, without my US bank making me pay foreign currency fees.

So. I've looked on the internet and here but came up short on how to effect a switch.

How do I change the currency on the App Store?  Or is there any other way to solve this problem?

In iTunes, go to the iTunes Store tab, and click on your account in the top right corner, as shown.
After typing your password, you will see this page. Click 'Change Country or Region', and change it. All done!

Note: if you have any iTunes Store credit, you will have to spend all of it before it lets you switch countries.

Go onto apple website then onto your profile and change the country.


Services menu shows the incorrect name I made a Service in Automator, but when I was saving mistyped the name. I used Automator to rename the Service, but the incorrect name shows up in my Services menu.

I checked the ~/Library/Services directory and the name is correct and the file metadata shows the correct name.

Why does the Services menu show the old name and how do I fix it?

Try rebuilding the Launch Services database.

Open the Terminal and run the following command:

/System/Library/Frameworks/CoreServices.framework/Frameworks/LaunchServices.framework/Support/lsregister -kill -r -domain local -domain system -domain user

Or, you can open up the service in AppleScript Editor and correct the name/spelling just by deleting and retyping.


iPod Touch will charge but won't play when connected to a Sony docking system I bought a Sony ICF-CS15iP docking system and my iPod will charge when I connect it, but it will not play music through the speakers. This is my 3rd docking system and I have had the same problem with the others - it will charge but not play.  I'm assuming it is my iPod that has something wrong with it. Should I call Sony and or Apple?? Thanks!
Note* I have a 4th gen iPod Touch

I found a product description on the Best Buy website:

  The ICF-CS15IP is Compatible with most iPod® and iPhone® models, including iPhone 4. Works with: iPod touch® 2nd, 3rd, & 4th generations, iPod nano® 3rd (video), 4th (video), 5th (video camera), & 6th generations, iPod classic®, iPhone® 4, iPhone 3GS, and iPhone 3G.

Your 4th generation iPod Touch is listed as supported by this device, so you should contact Sony and expect them to help you.

There is an app you have to download to make it play. It popped up when I put it on there the very first time, and I accidentally hit ignore. Need info.


How are these Chinese spam iCloud Calendar/Reminders invitations sent to me? Recently, I’ve received a couple of spam event invitations in Calendar on my Mac. The most recent had only Chinese text, and recurred at 5:46am every day.

I am able to decline these by clicking on the invitations button in the toolbar (that only appears when an invitation comes in). However, ideally I’d like to not receive these spam invitations at all.

As I’ve never received a genuine invitation through Calendar, I thought I might be able to turn off the invitation feature. However, I can’t see any controls for this in Calendar preferences or the Internet Account system preferences.

Through what mechanism do these invitation arrive? If I understood what mechanism it was, I might be able to turn it off. I have two Calendar accounts enabled: iCloud, and Facebook. I can’t see anything in my e-mail, so I presume they’re not regular e-mail spam.

Since first writing this question, I’ve had a similar invitation come through in Reminders:

It's simply that anyone can send an email to you. If spam rules don't block it, Apple software (with default settings) processes the invitation before you can take any action.

To prevent this automatic processing, try this.

Log in to iCloud on the web, open your calendar and go to ⚙ > Preferences (in the lower left corner). Under Advanced tab you’ll find an option to receive calendar invitations by e-mail instead of directly to your calendar.

Invitations can only come through direct email input, meaning that the inviter has your email address. How did the inviter get hold of your email? that's another issue.


How can I convert my GarageBand tune to an mp3 without the static noise increasing? After I export my GarageBand song and convert it to an mp3 and play it in iTunes, the background static noise is much louder than in Garageband.

OS X El Captain 10.11.2 . Garageband 10.1.0

I want it to sound the same as it does in GarageBand.

How can I convert tracks into an mp3 while reducing static noise in the file when played on iTunes?

I suspect this is not a file compression issue but rather an audio compression issue. By default, GarageBand has "Auto Normalize" turned on (Preferences > Advanced). This reduces the volume difference between the softest and loudest sounds in the mix on export, so that the playback of the finished audio is louder. The problem is, when you've got quiet background noise in your source files, normalizing will make it louder. Try turning off "Auto Normalize" and exporting again. The file format shouldn't matter.

Of course, the Jedi master-level fix for this problem would be to get a better recording (or better recording equipment) and to EQ/filter out the noise while mixing!

In GarageBand change the master volume of the whole song not just the individual instrument volume, I have had the same problem as you before and it works.


iPad Air 2 Won't Take Screenshots Screenshot no longer works on my iPad Air 2. Tried turning on/off, resetting, resetting settings, rebooting. Both the home button and power button work individually and my iPad used to take screenshots. How can get my iPad to take screenshots again.

The screenshot happens when both of the buttons are released at the same time, so if you can slow down your movements and hold down the buttons for a short "two count" or long "one count" - basically a second and a half, then release both precisely.

If that doesn't work, you either have full storage or a problem with the system being able to process the button release events in a timely manner.

To troubleshoot that:

Put the device in AirPlane mode and power it off.
Power on the device and don't connect to any networks.
Open Storage and make sure you have 1 GB free or more.
Delete apps, connect to iTunes and make a backup if you have nothing you can afford to delete long term.
Once you have enough space free - try taking a screen shot in AirPlane mode.
If that still fails - erase all content and settings on the device (or restore it over USB from iTunes or similar tool.
If the screen shot still doesn't work after deleting all your content or restoring - seek service - there's something wrong with the hardware.

Depending on how much you deleted - restore your backup to the repaired / replaced / restored iPad.

My iPad 2 seemed to stop performing screen shots after 10.0.1 spoftware update. Tried all remedies suggested, even resetting. To no avail. Then whilst trying again to take screenshot found the solution. It now takes different actions to do screenshot. Now I have to press both buttons simultaneously, then release power button, screen goes blank and then clicks giving a screenshot. Prior to this I just pressed home button first then pressed power button like you would a camera shutter button. Prefer the previous action, seems more natural.


Sublime Text like fuzzy filesystem search for Mac OS X Currently I am using Alfred's filesystem navigation capabilities. It's pretty awesome, but sometimes I want fuzzy-search to match not only the filename but the full path.

E.g. I want to find a pdf file with some very common filename (say proposal.pdf). And I have a directory structure like this:

 - dropbox
   - partners
     - supercorp
       - proposal.pdf
     - megacorp
       - proposal.pdf

It would be nice if I can type dro/meg/propos to get to the megacorp's proposal file. The answer may be the Alfred plugin or some configuration, but I'll accept any solution that allows me to quickly navigate to this file and perform some action (e.g. reveal in Finder or something). "Search-as-you-type" functionality is very important.

UPD Just found a similar question. Seems that full path matching feature is missing because mdfind is only searching the file name and all the tools are using it internally.

Alfred ships with an example workflow called Dynamic File Search that does something similar to fuzzy searching:
https://www.alfredapp.com/blog/tips-and-tricks/how-to-get-the-results-you-want-in-alfred-every-time/
https://www.alfredforum.com/topic/11981-searching-in-files-in-a-specific-location/?do=findComment&comment=62957
Alfred searching through directories and filenames at the same time

To add it, click the [+] at the bottom of the Workflows preferences, and choose Examples > Dynamic File Search.

Type "ff" in Alfred to first select a search scope
Then type the name of the file you're searching for within that folder

More documentation on Alfred's file filter feature can be found here https://www.alfredapp.com/help/workflows/inputs/file-filter/

Why u need fuzzy search in spotlight, if terminal is here?
open dro[tab]meg[tab]prop[tab]

also you can configure your .bash_profile to additionals.


Creating a virtual serial port I'm trying to create a pair of virtual serial ports on my mac. This is fairly easy to do with many shareware programs on a PC. I figured there would be some uber-powerful shell command to do this in one line, but I can't find it.

I want to send NMEA data into one port, and have Google earth read the data out of the other.

Any tips?

EDIT

MrDaniel's /dev/ptypx comment seemed to be interesting - I can pull it out of /dev/ttypx just fine in terminal.
But Google earth seems to be reading cu.deviceName instead of the /ttypx deveices..

specifically (Old Pro):

When trying to import the current location using a GPS (or NMEA stream piped through our virtual serial port), we go: Tools > GPS > Realtime to get to the import screen.
After selecting the NMEA option, and enabling realtime tracking, it looks for connected devices, and seems to look at:

usb:
/dev/cu.Bluetooth-PDA-Sync
/dev/cu.Bluetooth-Modem
/dev/cu.iPhone-WirelessAP

Even with our ttypx serial port operating ok, it doesn't look for it.
I would like to get the data from that device into Google Earth.

Google has an extremely useful tool for Arduino developers and it simulates serial ports very well on OS X for testing purposes. It only works until 10.6

https://github.com/clokey/PublicCode/tree/master/MacOSXVirtualSerialPort

(previously available from http://code.google.com/p/macosxvirtualserialport/ )

Might this help you?

There is a windows tool called GooPs http://goopstechnologies.com/?page_id=12 which handles some similar tasks.

You can also make a placemark that reads coordinates from a file and refreshes every second.

https://stackoverflow.com/questions/7249565/how-to-properly-update-google-earth-kml-using-networklinkcontrol-and-the-java-ap