Display phone numbers instead of contact name in recent calls I restored my contacts from iCloud after restoring my iPhone 6 Plus and setting up as a new iPhone and then imported sim contacts. I am now having an issue when I get an incoming call; it shows the caller's name but when I go to recents it only shows the number!

Restarting both messaging and phone apps worked for me.


Usage problem with my iPad Air I have an iPad Air and I want to update this game that needs 1.4 GB. I only have 5 apps on my iPad and when I go to Settings to look at my storage it says I have used 11 GB. I added up the usage for all my apps and I counted only 3.3 GB. I don't know how to fix this, I've restarted my iPad but it didn't work. I don't know where the other 8 GB is coming from. I also have the same problem on my iPhone 4s.

First, you should update your iPad to the latest iOS system and then if it still takes up you much space, I guess maybe there is much junk files or "other" storage on your iPad Air. You should know what is the Other storage clearly firstly. There are just too many things that require physical storage. That's why Apple chose to lump a lot of things into the "Other" category. Also you can refer to this thread who has the similar situation with you. Hope it's helpful to you. https://www.reddit.com/r/iphone/comments/3elqfe/iphone_6_says_storage_almost_fullexcept_its_not/


I've upgraded my iPhone 4S to iOS8 and now the GPS is always on I have determined that its Google Maps that is causing the GPS to be always on. Is there a way to select an option so that Google Maps only uses the GPS when the app is being used? The only options I see in Privacy > Location Services for Google Maps are "Always" or "Never".

In the meantime I've reverted to Apple Maps and deleted Google Maps to save my battery.

Did you try updating your app? In my version, it has "Never" and "While using the app" options under location settings.

You can disable GPs by Following Steps:-

Step #1. Tap on Setting

Step #2. Tap on Privacy

Step #3. Tap on Location Services

Step #4. Tap on System Services

Step #5. Switch off services that you don’t use.

For More Information How To Fix It Location Services Always On In iOS 8


Obtaining a particular effect called "Lazy Mouse Smoothing" in a graphics application I'm using Pixelmator and Autodesk Sketchbook for drawing and I'd really love to have "lazy mouse smoothing".  This is a feature found in an application called LazyNezumi, for Windows, that adds lag smoothing to the mouse.

Does anyone know of a solution for OS X?

I've had a look around and can't find any specific sites that show how to enable/use 'lazy mouse smoothing' on OSX.

EDIT: Unless this does the job (SmoothCursor): http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/41736/smooth-cursor/ - have not used and am not affiliated with the app/company

  SmoothCursor is a little utility that allows you to customize the acceleration settings of your mouse or trackpad separately. Totally recommended for drawing applications and FPS games*!

Developer's site: http://apps.leftbee.net/SmoothCursor

LazyNezumi itself states:

  I’m sorry but there is no Mac support, and I don’t plan on ever providing any (this was already tricky enough to program for Windows, and I’ve never owned a Mac or programmed with them).

There's a new tool for Mac that is very similar:

http://www.hejbrush.com/apps


Debugging Server connection interrupted messages I'm suffering at irregular intervals on my network with:

Does anyone have some practical advice how to limit this? I don't understand what the problem is. The new Macbook Air with Mountain Lion has no problem pinging 192.168.1.2 (the Time Capsule) on my home network.

I had the same problem and wrote this post with the answer:
The fix is to remove/disable /System/Library/LoginPlugins/FSDisconnect.loginPlugin
The following steps should sort you out:

Click on the spotlight icon (magnifying glass) in the upper right of your screen

Type in ‘terminal’

Click the ‘Terminal’ icon (black with white border) under applications

Type in the following command (and hit enter):
sudo mv /System/Library/LoginPlugins/FSDisconnect.loginPlugin /System/

It will prompt you for your user password. Type it and hit enter again

Reboot

This just moves the plugin to /System so you can restore it again if needed by replacing step #4 with sudo mv /System/FSDisconnect.loginPlugin /System/Library/LoginPlugins/.


Installing a clean version of OS X I am currently downloading yosemite from the app store. I have Lion installed. I want a clean install. But i don't have a bootable cd/usb and I don't need to save any data.

Can i do the following or is there a better way?

Create a partition. Install yosemite on it. Delete the other partition where now lion runs

Yes. Creating a new partition, installing Yosemite (or whatever Mac OS you care) there and then copying/downloading the installer onto it is a great way to then erase your Primary partition.

Then you can cleanly install OS X on to the first partition and then delete the "staging" partition, finally resizing the first partition to take the whole drive again.

My way is "better" since if you install on to the second partition, deleting the first might leave you with space you can't re-grow the second partition to recover the first. I've never seen a case where I can't delete follow on partitions and then grow the first to take up all space.

Create a usb drive installer and wipe the disk when booted from the installer. There is an app that will help make an installer disk - http://diskmakerx.com/

I do this for any update to OS X where I want a clean install.


How can I just change the language of Safari in iPhone iOS 9? I am using an iPhone with iOS 9 and the language is set to 'English'.

Also Safari's language is set to English. Is there a way to change the language just of Safari?

Thanks for helping.

There is no way to override the language setting in Safari only.

There are multiple workarounds, though.

Google Chrome for iOS can help you translate web pages that are not in your language to something that is in your language. Google Chrome for iOS os a great browser for iOS.

To translate from any language to any language from any web browser use this(make sure to replace): https://translate.google.com/translate?&u={URL GOES HERE}. Or, just go to this link.

Just open a safari browser > bookmarks (the button looks like a book) > swipe left to delete Chinese sites in Favorites and Bookmarks. Then add your own bookmarks/favorites that you like when you visit a page e.g Apple.com (without the ".cn" as that's Apple China site).


I did a software update & now I can't open Mail I get the following message when I try to open mail

'You can't use this version of Mail with this version of Mac OS x
You have Mail version 4.5 (1084/1085). It can't be used on Mac OS X version 10.6.8 )build 10k549)'

I have read the help info

I have made sure Mail.app is in the application folder

Thanks for any help with this

Since you state Mail.app is already in the Applications folder, follow these additional steps:

Download Safari 5.1.7 for Snow Leopard
Reinstall the Mac OS X Update v10.6.8 Combo v1.1
Reinstall Safari 5.1.7 for Snow Leopard
Reinstall Security Update 2012-004

Somehow, you made a copy of the old Mail.app and it is starting instead of the version in the Applications folder. Control-click on the Mail icon in the dock, then select Options and Show in Finder. This will show you the old version that is no longer supported.


Easy way to take a screen shot that's NOT color corrected? My displays are color calibrated every other month or so with a hardware calibration tool. When I take a screen shot of a profile aware app, such as photoshop or lightroom or some web browsers, I don't want the screen shot to be adjusted for my monitor. Is there an easy way to do this besides my current approach:

goto system preferences, display, color calibration
change the profile to a generic monitor one
start the color aware application (most seem to require a fresh startup to deal with the change)
take the screen shot
change my profile back
restart the application

To address @barryj's assertion that color profile only matters if I'm using a camera to take a picture of the display. Here are two screen shots of the same image, one with the default color profile applied to the monitor, and one with my custom profile applied, just to show you how much of a difference it really makes.

The fact that the monitor's profile gets embedded is the only way the OS can preserve the appearance of colors in your photos. If you open a photo in Photoshop, take a screen capture (let's say for now via the built-in OS tool), then open this screen shot in Photoshop (and preserve the profile in the file) and compare both side to side, then you will see that the colors are visually similar even though the numbers for each pixel is different from one to the other.

This is all normal behavior. The colors you see on your screen on a calibrated and profiled monitor is actually raw values sent by the OS to the graphics card which then "assigns" the monitor profile to the values in real time so that the colors look like they should on the monitor. This is the simple explanation of course, there is much more going on in the background.

In the color management world there is only 2 options when you wish to play around with colors and profiles: assign or convert colors. When switching from one color space to another (i.e. from RGB to CMYK), your only option is convert since the laws of physics apply here. Within the same color space, if you assign profiles (or remove them, i.e. assigning nothing) you preserve the numbers while sacrificing (to various degrees) the appearance of the colors. When converting, you preserve the appearance of the colors while sacrificing the numbers in the file.

In your case, you need to convert the screen shot to a device-independent profile like Adobe RGB, or a device-dependent but easy to play with like sRGB. You can do that in Photoshop or Preview, as long as you do convert and not assign. Removing the profile is not really helping, since the numbers will have no meaning...

Try opening up the screenshot in "Preview" and then under the "Tools" menu select "Assign Profile..." and change the profile of the image that way.

If that works, you should be able to automate the process with either a folder action and AppleScript to Automator.


When trying to save a .jpg or .jpeg, Safari tries to force .dms extension onto end? Not really the most pressing question, but it's bugged me enough to get an account and try my luck...

When I try to save any .jpg or .jpeg, Safari forces a .dms extension onto the end of it, and there's no other way to save that picture. Usually with most things like this, a solution is readily available if you Google for it, but I couldn't find an adequate answer. It's been like this for months. Sometimes it goes away, only to come back the next time I try to save a picture.

use both then go to the file location and delete the .dms portion. Works for me.


Turn off the built-in monitor on MBP El Capitan with clamshell open I usually plug my MBP 15" late 2011 (El Capitan 10.11.2) with an external monitor, and I only use that. Also I need to use the trackpad.

So I need to turn off the built-in monitor with the clamshell open. Possibly using a terminal command. How can do it?

I already tried this solution (for Yosemite) but doesn't work on El capitan: https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/154600/90762

And I already tried DisableMonitor app but it reduces the brightness of the monitor to 0 and it remains on! So probably it consumes more. Is there a way to completely turn off?

You can also just mirror the display of the MacBook screen to the external one and then turn off the brightness of the Macbook screen (so it turns fully black).
Then you can keep the lid open of your MacBook AND use the TrackPad.

System Preferences > Displays > Arrangement > Select "Mirror Displays".

SwitchResX works for me: you can easily disable displays in its GUI.


iMac 2008 Core 2 Duo does not list my bootable USB stick in the boot menu? Hi i am trying to install OS X El Capitan on iMac 2008 model Core 2 Duo processor, and  4GB Ram. The way i followed is i created a USB bootable stick and insert to mac machine and restarted the Machine then i  pressed C key in keyboard and i waited more than 30 seconds then it is not showing any usb Bootable option and later it booted directly. Even i can`t able to Boot CD Drive also. can any one help me out here please.

Try:

Holding down Option at boot, not C. This will show every available boot option
Make sure you are using a USB keyboard attached directly to the machine

Even though the Core 2 Duo is technically 64-bit, it won't run anything newer than Snow Leopard (10.6.8).


How to fix screwed font display in password entry dialog? I don't have a single clue how my Mac OS comes to be like this..

Whenever I'm prompted to enter my password for admin rights to make changes to the system, my Mac OS seems to have a hard time finding the correct characters to represent the Roman alphabets it wants to display. Here are some screenshots regarding what it shows:

I suppose there is some bug (it is a Mac OS X version 10.7.5) or maybe I've accidentally deleted some system files required for the encoding..

This isn't really a big problem (since everything else works well), but as time goes by I feel the need to fix it.

I would appreciate if someone can provide me a solution.

So apparently it was solved by removing the fontd databases and deleting the files of conflicting fonts. (I guess the conflicting fonts were shown in Font Book?)

sudo atsutil databases -remove; atsutil server -shutdown

The password dialogs and force quit window are shown by processes owned by the root, so -removeUser might not work. launchd starts a new fontd process automatically, so atsutil server -ping is not needed.

using about your own name and scramble with it


How to disable individual USB ports by script? I am looking for a script which will allow me to disable one specific USB port on my Mac mini. It would only serve a purpose if it works in real-time and didn't require a reboot. I've found scripts for various Linux distros that seemed to do something similar - however most required a reboot.

I've got ambient lighting behind my monitor which is powered by USB and it doesn't turn off when the system sleeps. So my office is constantly lit up, it would be nice if I could write a script that would disable that specific USB port.

How to disable individual USB ports by script?

Have you seen this thread and the code here? Maybe shell could be used to "manually" rename the device ID or port to something odd that won't work, upon a specified event, then renames it to what it's supposed to be later.

Unfortunately, what you are asking is not possible with any OS X API or AppleScript hook. This is something controlled by the hardware layer of the OS and involves far more work than it's worth. While similar scripts exist for Linux, you must keep in mind that even though OS X and Linux are distant cousins, OS X wasn't built for such fine-grained control over its components like Linux was. Sadly, the only options you have in this case is to unplug the device or completely disable the USB interface. That last one, of course, isn't feasible for you, so unfortunately, there's no solution to this problem. Sorry. :(

Good luck and happy sleeping!


Can't update to Windows 10 on MacBook Pro due to Apple Broadcom Built-in Bluetooth I've followed the instructions here : https://support.apple.com/en-au/HT204990

I have a late 2013 MacBook Pro Retina. Currently running Windows 7 64bit. I've got the latest OS X 10.11 El Capitan, all software updates applied. I've run the Apple Software Update in Windows 7 - all up to date.

When I click on the Get Windows 10 icon, it displays:

  "Unfortunately, this PC is unable to run Windows 10... because one or more things are incompatible.

Viewing the report, it says:

  "The device manufacturers haven't made these devices compatible with Windows 10, so they won't work. Check with the manufacturers for support."

  Apple Broadcom Built-in Bluetooth

  Apple Inc.

Try updating the bluetooth driver using the one found here: http://support.lenovo.com/au/en/downloads/ds031759

It should have the supported Windows 10 driver for the Bluetooth chipset found in that model (BCM20702).

Once completed, try the upgrade again.

Seem like you have to install Windows 10 manually with iso file and bootcamp, then install the driver.


How can I set the time before the screen dims? I've got an iPad 3 on iOS 5.1. When reading occasionally my screen will dim before I interact with the screen; it doesn't turn off and lock but it dims.

How can I lengthen the timer for this? Is it the same option as the "Auto Lock" timeout in the Settings app?

It is determined by the Auto Lock time and cannot be set independently of it. The Auto Lock can be changed in Settings > General > Auto-Lock. The longer you set it to not auto-lock, the longer the display will maintain it's normal brightness.

http://bgr.com/2014/10/23/ios-8-1-features-tips-tricks-dimming/
Read this page and you can set it to dim manually with three home button pushes. This is a work around but you may actually like it since I did.


macOS Mojave won't install updates past 10.14.1 due to requirement for APFS formatting I have a MBP 2012 I upgraded from High Sierra to Mojave after it came out as GA. I don't recall if I was asked about upgrading to APFS when Id id that, but at this time the main volume is Mac OS Extended (Journaled).

My current About This Mac...version is Mojave 10.14.1 (18B75). Now, when updates are advertised from the App Store, I'm unable to upgrade because 10.14.3 is required.

No OS updates show in the App Store, and when I searched for the updaters (10.14.2 Combo, etc), I can't install because the installer reports "macOS 10.14.2 Update can't be installed on this disk. This Mac can only install macOS on APFS-formatted drives."

I tried the search results recommending to boot in Recovery Mode and use Disk Utility, but APFS is not available as a type.

I have good backups and I can reformat the boot volume if I need to, but I have not done this before. Should I get a 10.14.3 installer to do this and boot from an external drive? The only guies and message boards I've found just keep saying to install 10.14.3 (I can't) or convert the disk in Recovery Mode (APFS is not available as an option.)

Any known-good ways to get my 10.14.1 upgraded so I can keep getting App Store updates?

I had the same problem. After multiple searches, the only way I found to get the drive updated to APFS was the following:

Full clone of internal drive to external drive using SuperDuper! (Carbon Copy Cloner would also work from what I've read)
Reboot from external drive
Reformat internal drive as APFS
Full clone of external drive to internal drive using SuperDuper!
Reboot from internal drive

It feels like there should be an easier way to do this, but I couldn't find it.

Yes, you can go for APFS, even any old flash drives, for example, 4gb or 8gb.

You can convert it into APFS, done through Disk Utility.


Word cannot save this document due to a naming or permissions error on the destination volume I have a mapped network folder on my Mac.

About a week ago everything was fine and I could save Word documents to my personal folder on the network drive. Now, I've been getting the following message:

"Word cannot save this document due to a naming or permissions error on the destination volume"

I have the latest Office and OSX version.

Why is that?

This problem appears to be tied to how Word creates temp files when saving changes. The fix appears to be creating a .TemporaryItems directory with global read/write access at the root of the network share.

Creating a .TemporaryItems directory with global read/write access at the root of the network share should fix it. If a directory with that name already exists, check the permissions on the directory and set it to be globally read/write if needed.

Links with more information:

http://prowiki.isc-csg.upenn.edu/wiki/MS_Office_and_Network_Volumes
http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20051122213207398

bro go to the "location" line under document name when you click save as. its the third line. Its usually on documents or downloads. I had this problem, came here, and figured out myself that its probably on a crazy location and you just need to set it to Documents or whatever. Mine was on "Lines"... now it works. good luck lol


Change location of screenshots mac Right now they default to desktop, and I followed instructions found here. It works up until I shut down the computer; I was wondering if there was a permanent solution?

Terminal command to change screenshot save location:

defaults write com.apple.screencapture location "/path/to/new/location"

Put your desired screenshot path between the double quotes as it is required if any spaces exist in the location path! Locations without a space will still be executed properly.

Example path with a space in new path:

defaults write com.apple.screencapture location "/Users/YourUserHomeFolder/Pictures/Screen Shots"

So no one is confused, the ~ character is a shortcut character symbol for your user's home folder. Other answers/sites might use this symbol.

Example:

defaults write com.apple.screencapture location "~/Pictures/Screen Shots"

The above defaults command will change the location screenshots are saved. The only problem is the path location must always be available or else it'll default back to the Desktop.

Example scenario: If you set the path to a removable volume such as a flash drive at /Volume/USBFlashDrive and remove it, or the location for some reason becomes unavailable from perhaps deleting, it'll revert back to its default location.

The only thing you'll need to change is the /path/to/new/location. This can be found from Finder by right clicking on your chosen folder. Then, after the context menu appears, hold the option key to change Copy "..." to Copy "..." as Pathname, so you can paste it into Terminal as the replacement for the example path provided above.

Found this tutorial from Google.com

By that, just create a new folder somewhere else where you want to store screenshot. For example, Desktop -> Screenshots

Then perform this command in Terminal.

defaults write com.apple.screencapture location /Users/username/Desktop/Screenshots


How can I make an external drive behave as an internal drive? My question is pretty much summed up by the title, I have an external drive which I'd like to have recognized as an internal drive. How can I do that? Thanks for looking at my question. By the way I am running 10.11.3 on mbp

I just found this answer, sorry I tried looking first but couldn't find it....

You should be able to do this with dd by setting Removable to False.

Unmount your disk, then run…

dd if=/dev/zero of=/dev/disk2 bs=1 count=1

Don't forget to replace disk2 with the actual disk identifier.

This command will erase the contents of the disk. Untested, be careful, usual 'not responsible if stuff goes wrong' applies :)


"Unable to Download App" on iOS 7.1.1 I am not able to download any app from the App Store on my iPhone 5 which is running iOS 7.1.1.

I have been getting the following error since last week when attempting to download an app.

Luckily, I could fix my issue.

I had to change my DNS to 8.8.8.8.
My internet used to work before this but after changing my DNS now I am able to download apps from App Store.

But I tell I haven't changed any setting on my iPad 2 running iOS 6 still every thing works including App Store downloads. I think this issue is with iPhone 5 or definitely iOS 7.1.1.

It is not a DNS issue. U should change the date to previous dates than ur current one and ur application will install normally. I don't know why, could be a buy in IOS


Understanding macOS's Keyboard Shortcuts I was looking at some of the built-in keyboard shortcuts in macOS, and some of them are totally incomprehensible to me. I tried to do some research, but couldn't find any useful answers. All of them can be found under this window:

I would like to have, please, an explanation of the following shortcuts:

"Move focus to active or next window". If I have multiple windows running, what's the "active" or "next" one?
"Move focus to the window toolbar". What's the window toolbar?
"Move focus to the floating window". What is the floating window?
"Move focus to next window". What's the next window? And how does this shortcut differs from the first one in this list?
"Move focus to the window drawer". What's the window drawer?
"Move focus to status menus". What are the status menus?

Thank you!

"Move focus to active or next window". If I have multiple windows running, what's the "active" or "next" one?

This will put the focus on the topmost window of the currently active application ( which itself can be toggled by super+tab / Command+Tab ). This allows you to input keyboard commands to that window even if it somehow lost focus.

If the topmost window already has focus, it will rotate to the next-topmost window, regardless of which application it belongs to. This might cycle through a mixed set of Finder windows and Chrome windows based on this 'z-index'. This is the order they visually appear in, such as which was most recently clicked or opened.

  "Move focus to the window toolbar". What's the window toolbar?

This is a kind of control that some OS X native applications use. In Finder you can see it is used to select the kind of file view to display (icons/list/etc). Not many applications seem to have bothered with this.

  "Move focus to the floating window". What is the floating window?

This is a kind of special window that some OS X native applications use. It remains on top. Not many applications seem to have bothered with this.

  "Move focus to next window". What's the next window? And how does this shortcut differs from the first one in this list?

This will move the focus to the next window of the currently active application. Switching between multiple Chrome windows, for instance. It will not, unlike the "Move focus to active or next window" function, select windows belonging to a different application.

  "Move focus to the window drawer". What's the window drawer?

This is a kind of control that certain OS X native applications have in their interface. Not many applications seem to have bothered with this.

  "Move focus to status menus". What are the status menus?

The status menus are the items in the top right corner on default settings. This include the clock and your username (the logout/shutdown menu),  as well as any icons added by applications.

They really could have been named better, or have tooltips, but a lot of the descriptions would likely be oxymoronic as they aren't easy to explain in a vacuum. Some of the issues appear to be the legacy features in OS X that were intended for use by app developers that didn't become very well known or popular.

Corrections or additional examples are are welcomed in the comments.

I was wondering the same thing until I came across this link:
https://flylib.com/books/en/2.963.1.226/1/


Move file to folder in dropbox How do I move a file from one folder to a different folder in Dropbox? I cannot find any links or tabs to do this from the iOS / iPad app.

I'm working from the iPhone app so it may be different on the iPad, but try this.

Browse to the file you want to move.
Tap the ellipsis ( ... ) at the top of the screen next to the folder name, and choose 'Edit'.
Tap the checkbox next to the file you want to move.
Tap 'Move' at the bottom of the screen.
Navigate to the folder you want to move the file to.  You can use the arrow at the top left to go to the parent folder.
When you are in the desired destination folder, tap 'Choose' at the bottom right corner of the screen.

I misread the OP but I'll leave it here just incase:

You can drag and drop files from one folder to another on the Website or you can rightclick the file and click "Move". You can also use the Dropbox folder on your Mac (If you've got the client installed) like a normal finder folder.


Logitech Options won't let me change the "Keystroke assignment" assigned to a mouse button anymore Logitech Options won't let me change the "Keystroke assignment" assigned to a mouse button anymore. I just get a sad error noise every time I try to set one.
Strangely, there are already keystroke assignments set for the mouse buttons on one of my Logitech mice. (I set them a long time ago.) They appear in the Logitech Options app and those assignments still work. But I cannot change them.
This is on Catalina, and I have Logitech Options and Logitech Options Daemon enabled under Security & Privacy => Accessibility and Security & Privacy => Input Monitoring.
Logitech Options used to work fine for me, but it stopped working at some point, and now no amounting of fiddling seems able to make it work properly again.
Any ideas?

I've discovered no answer to how to make Logi Options behave properly in this respect, but the commercial mouse driver "SteerMouse" works just fine for me. It's $20, but at least it lets me continue to use my Logitech mice the way that I've been using them for years.


My iPad camera roll says it is using 7.5 gb after all pics have been deleted for weeks Please help me. I have deleted apps and photos to get memory on my iPad, and it still says I have 0gb left. It has been a couple of weeks. All photos have been deleted from the 'recently deleted' album.  It says the camera roll is using 7.5gb, when there are no photos. It's affecting my iPad speed. I've tried rebooting my iPad. I can't install anything, as my memory is used up. It has 16gb, and I think it's an iPad 2.

Note: I don't have a Macpro, MacBook, iPhone, iPod, iMac or anything else made by Apple.

Plug your iPad into iTunes and verify that there are no folders of photos from your computer that are being synced onto your iPad, it is possible that although you have deleted all of your photos that you took on your phone (i.e. the ones in the camera roll) you could still be syncing a folder of photos from your computer.

This link from the Apple website should have all the information you need about how to check that if you are unaware.

go to photos, then albums and the bottom listed one will be RECENTLY DELETED.

In there will be your deleted photos, select those, select all and then delete. Your space will be recovered.


How can I prove to an airline that the iPad mini they found is the one I left on the plane, without giving them the passcode? I left an iPad mini on an Icelandair flight. They just sent me this message:

  "We have an item matching your description. Can you please send us details about the item, preferably passcode, to identify you as the owner."

This is a Wi-Fi only model.
It's almost certainly in Airplane Mode with the Wi-Fi turned off.
It’s at the lock screen.
I'm in the US and the iPad presumably is in Iceland.

I would rather not share my passcode if I can find a way around it.

What reasonable ways can I respond to prove my ownership of this iPad?

If you have your iPad's serial number it should be visible on the back of the device.

source: Apple

As mentioned in the comments below, you can get the serial number by either:

Logging into the AppleID associated with the device at appleid.apple.com.
In the Apple ID area in the Settings app on your iPhone logged into the same Apple ID. (The very first thing if you scroll to the top of Settings.)

This should be straightforward. Get them on the phone while you are in front of a computer, log into iCloud and in realtime go through the tools available in FindMyiPhone, then have them send it to you.


How can I prevent the iPad from getting my iPhone texts or calls? Updated my iPhone and iPad to IOS 8.0.2 and now when I get a text or phone call on the iPhone the message appears on my iPad. Can I undo or unlink this feature?

On the iPad simply go to 'setting', then 'messages', then slide 'iMessages' to off.  You will not receive texts from anyone.

For iMessage just tap Settings, then Messages, then simply move the slider button to stop iMessages from going to your iPad!


macOS How do I install and use this program? I downloaded a command line utility from this github webpage . I clicked on the green Clone or Download button to download the zip file. Although, there are also files that can be downloaded from the releases tab. I'm not sure whether I'm supposed to download those files instead. After downloading and unzipping the zip file, I double-clicked on the file entitled displayplacer, which opened a terminal window that ran a bunch of commands.

Now what? How do I use this program?

I tried opening a new terminal window and running displayplacer list which, according to the github page, is supposed to Show current screen info and possible resolutions. However, the terminal window returned zsh: command not found: displayplacer after I entered the command. Did I not install the code properly?

Ultimately, what I want to do is set up a keyboard shortcut that switches the primary display between my macbook's internal display and my external display. How do I do this?

(macOS catalina)

Installation:

Download the zip to your Downloads folder
Unzip displayplacer-master.zip
Enter in Terminal: sudo mv ~/Downloads/displayplacer-master/displayplacer /usr/local/bin/
sudo chmod +x /usr/local/bin/displayplacer
displayplacer
Depending on your Security & Privacy settings you have to allow execution of the file in System Preferences > Security & Privacy > General

All other files included in the zip won't be required to run the exec.

Usage:

Get the properties of all your displays: displayplacer list
With the properties and the various possible switches create an arrangement. One example with four monitors is listed:

displayplacer "id:18173D22-3EC6-E735-EEB4-B003BF681F30+F466F621-B5FA-04A0-0800-CFA6C258DECD res:1440x900 scaling:on origin:(0,0) degree:0" "id:4C405A05-8798-553B-3550-F93E7A7722BB res:768x1360 hz:60 color_depth:8 scaling:off origin:(1440,0) degree:90" "id:A46D2F5E-487B-CC69-C588-ECFD519016E5 mode:3 origin:(-1440,0) degree:270"

I have no 2nd screen in my virtual machine so I partly have to guess what it means:

The first two monitors (1440x900) are mirrored and contain the menubar. The third is on the right and rotated by 90 degrees (clockwise?). The fourth is on the left and rotated by 90 degrees (counterclockwise?).

Automator:

After finding appropriate settings (at least two if you want to switch the primary display between [your] macbook's internal display and [your] external display: back and forth) you have to create two different services/quick actions/etc. each containing one shell script ("Run Shell Script") with the proper displayplacer "id:.... line.

Depending on your Mac hardware and your system version you can apply a shortcut or even add it to the Touch Bar.

Adding 1 more step to run the steps (for the Answer above) automatically https://stackoverflow.com/questions/6442364/running-script-upon-login-mac


How to enter a non-breaking space on iOS? On a Mac, entering a non-breaking space is very easy. On my iPad with iOS 7 installed, I want to enter a non-breaking space. But I find no way.
I have tried the mic on the keyboard. It gives me this :
Espace insécable
:-)
I would prefer a solution coming from the keyboard. I would also like a palette offering characters or snippets.

Find one in a web page (even a page you create yourself, inserting  ) and then copy it to the clipboard. Paste it in when needed.

If you hold the zero on you iOS keyboard you should see the little superscript circle (degree symbol)
°


Is it possible to crossfade songs on an iPhone? Is it possible to crossfade songs on an iPhone that are played through the iPod app?

If there is no native way to do this, are there any apps that can do this?

I'm sorry, I don't think it is possible (yet). If you had an old iPod Nano/Classic then I might have suggested 'Rockbox' (give it a google). Send Apple a feature request about it, they never know, if enough people bombard them with requests then maybe it will become a native feature.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

The new Jam Session app I just distributed allows to do exactly that and much more:
http://www.jamsession.in
It allows to select a number of tunes from the user's library and then play them without gaps of silence between them. The next version shall also allow to handle several playlist and some one in the future also tuen the BPMs of the selected tunes - one I know how to do it...


My mom can't send me iMessages and she has iPhone4 and I know iMessage works on my iPhone 5 The button "Use your apple ID ..... " doesn't work on her phone on iMessages settings, but she entered her phone number properly to be used for iMessages. I tried turning on and off the iMessages. Still doesn't work and she is sending me SMS regular instead of iMessage iPhone to iPhone. I even managed to send her iMessage from Macbook to her iPhone 4 using Message app for Macbook, but not from iPhone 5 (I have iPhone 5). But Apple, (please) this is the BASIC BASIC function of a telephone, why can't you fix this......I love Apple and all but things like this make me freaking jump out of my skin....the simplest basic stuff :)

I'm with you, this pisses me off. This small explanation may help:

iMessages on an iPhone has two ways of sending a text.

iMessage

  This is the blue colored bubbles. It requires data to be turned on to
  send and receive messages. It goes through apple servers. This can be
  sent between macs, iPads, iPods, and iPhones.

SMS

  This is the green colored bubbles. It does not require data and it
  goes through cell towers from your carrier. This can only be sent to
  phones, including android phones, those old Nokia phones, and anything
  that can receive text messages. It does not send to a mac, iPod, and iPad without cellular

On an iPhone you can have both enabled, or just SMS. You cannot disable SMS.

Happens to me as well. One time I sent a message to my friend on iPhone 6 from an iPhone 5 and it sent SMS one time and after 5 minutes it sent it as iMessage. All the time we were both on my local fast Wi-Fi (30 Mb/s) which is 2 metres far (the router is 2 meters far). Not sure how to resolve but resetting iMessages again might do the trick.


What is the difference between .bash_profile and .bashrc? To make an alias for the Terminal in OS X, you can either put the aliases in .bash_profile or .bashrc. What is the difference between the two and why would I choose to put aliases in one and not the other?

.bash_profile is executed for login shells, while .bashrc is executed for interactive non-login shells.

When you login (type username and password) via console, either sitting at the machine, or remotely via ssh: .bash_profile is executed to configure your shell before the initial command prompt.

But, if you’ve already logged into your machine and open a new terminal window (xterm) then .bashrc is executed before the window command prompt. .bashrc is also run when you start a new bash instance by typing /bin/bash in a terminal.

On OS X, Terminal by default runs a login shell every time, so this is a little different to most other systems, but you can configure that in the preferences.

For ubuntu/debain I add this code at the end of .bashrc:

 if [ -f ~/.bash_profile ]; then
    source ~/.bash_profile
 fi

Now my aliases take effect in all new opened terminals(or tabs)


Converting format of hard drive How to change format of external hard drive from ExFat to HFS+ without losing data? What are limits for maximum size of a file on both formats?

There is no way to do that without copying all data to a second disk, formatting the first as HFS+, and copying the data back.

The file size limit under ExFat is about 16 Exabytes, which is higher than the maximum possible volume size. And HFS+ is similarly crazy: 8 Exabytes is the limit. Which means that you should never have to worry about file size again! (The developers of FAT32 probably thought the same though :p)

Next time, please make use of websites like Wikipedia before posting these sorts of questions.


What is the keyboard shortcut for editing a cell in Excel? I can't find the keyboard shortcut for this on the mac. It's F2 on a windows machine.

Office for Windows: F2
Office for Mac: Ctrl + U


"Go" button on the Finder window I am trying to remove the plug-in for Unsubscribe to avoid the message appearing every time I open my Mac.  To do so, I am supposed to click on the "Go" button in the Finder window.  Unfortunately, I can't see where is the "Go" button on the Finder window on an iMac OS X Version 10.7.5.

It is likely directing you to the Go menu in Finder. It looks like this.

(source: macosxtips.co.uk)

Command-shift-K

Lets you directly to "go", then pick your submenu


Where is the bluetooth antenna located in iPhones? I posted this question on the Apple support forum, but no one could give me an answer.

I am researching iBeacons for my final year project at University and I'm interested to know the position of the Bluetooth antenna in the iPhones.

Can anybody give me a reliable source explaining where the bluetooth antenna is located on the different versions of the iPhones? iPhone 4S up to 6 plus.

Cheers.

There are teardown/repair guides at iFixIt, they note where the chips and antennas are located.

For example, in an iPhone 4S teardown, here's a photo of the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth chip.
There is a guide on replacing the upper antenna - which is the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth one.
And there is also a step-by-step guide on fixing the wi-fi which provides the detailed photos and description.

It appears that the Bluetooth antenna is located at the top of the 4S. The discussion of the iPhone 6 teardown also states that the Apple fit the antenna on the top.

So, iFixit has a lot of manuals and photos to provide. Also, they've got a great community, so if you have any further questions, you can ask them instead.

Its on the top as when you block that area of the phone the bluetooth stops working


Cisco AnyConnect Secure Mobility Client on OS X Yosemite - CSD library signature verification failed I just updated my MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Early 2013) to latest OS X Yosemite (10.10 (14A389)) and Cisco AnyConnect Secure Mobility Client (3.1.05182) is generating an error while trying to connect:

Posture Assessment Failed: CSD library signature verification failed.

Cisco AnyConnect Secure Mobility Client VPN User Messages, Release 3.1 - Cisco states following:

CSD library signature verification failed.
Description    The signature of the library could not be verified. This indicates a problem with the CSD library.

Recommended Action    Remove the library from the cache, and try a new connection.

Removing library from the cache did NOT solve my issue(

Any other ideas?

I had the same problem as the OP with Cisco AnyConnect version 2.3.2016: installing OS X 10.10 Yosemite broke it. Scrounging up a copy of 3.1.05187 WORKS (kind of) on my Mac.

I said "scrounge" because I couldn't download the correct version from Cisco's web site, because I don't have a login there associated with our license, and I couldn't get our local tech folks to understand why I couldn't just install the "MSI" file on my Mac.

Anyway, searching the web for "anyconnect-macosx-i386-3.1.05187-k9.dmg" unearthed a copy from a university web site (not something I like to do, particularly with security software), and behold, it installed and runs!

One wrinkle: unlike the older version, the newer one didn't route DNS lookups through the VPN. When Cisco establishes a VPN connection, it seems they edit "/etc/resolv.conf" to add the VPN's DNS servers. That doesn't work, and there's a warning to that effect in the Apple-generated "resolv.conf" file.

My work-around is to consult what Cisco added and manually add those servers through the Mac OS X Network Preference Pane.

Are you licensed for the mobility client? Look at your Cisco ASA information and see if AnyConnect for Mobile is enabled or disabled.


How to get the three finger 'scroll to top' back in mountain lion? Remember in Snow Leopard there was a gesture using three fingers to scroll to the top of webpages? Has anyone worked out a way of getting that back?

In Trackpad System Preferences, set 'Swipe between pages' option to three fingers.  Quick scroll to top and bottom seems to work, at least in Firefox.

alt + three fingers up/down should do the trick.


Cannot re-install OS X Lion after trying to format Macbook Pro I have been facing an issue regarding a OS X Lion installation in my Macbook Pro 13. I used to have OS X Lion, then I decided to update my O.S to the OS X Mavericks; the update was pretty good, it was successful.

The problem was when I tried to "format" my Mac, during the re-installation of the O.S, a message appeared in my screen saying that the "Recovery partition could not be created", that was weird for me, I am not very good with my Mac yet, so I tried using a OS X Lion installer (which is in a CD), I tried to install from the CD (what many people call a "clean installation") but I got the same result regarding the "partition recovery".

I saw that some of the people mention that it is needed to delete all the partitions created, but in my case, every time I try to delete any of the partitions, it says "cannot unmount disk", and I am not able to perform any deletion over the partitions as mentioned in many tutorials.

So far, I noticed that a yellow alert appears in one of the partitions before pick a drive for the installation:

Additionally, this is what I have when I open disk utility:

I tried deleting the partitions using the disk utility and even using the Terminal commands (with sudo) but I always get the same error: The disk cannot be unmounted.
Please if somebody could help me, I will really appreciate, I've been without my Mac for more than 3 weeks. Thanks in advance.

When you're booted from the CD and looking at Disk Utility, you need to use the Erase tab, not the Partition tab.  The EFI and Recovery partitions are hidden from view, so even if you delete all the partitions on the disk, it still won't delete that one.

If that still doesn't work, then you can open up a terminal window, and issue the following command:

diskutil zeroDisk /dev/disk0

That will zero out your entire hard drive, including all your partition tables.  But it could take 2-3 hours depending how fast your hard drive is.  Once it's done, you can create a new partition and install the OS.

If course, if you're really pedantic like me, you'd remove all media from the optical drive and USB ports, zero the hard drive, power off, zap the PRAM, reset the SMC, and then boot from Internet Recovery to do the OS install.  That's factory fresh right there, my friend.  The only thing it won't have after all that is the new computer smell.

Go to a friend using a similar mac..  Use a usb data converter to connect your hard drive. and clone this drive of yours with his. Of course all the materials in his drive will become yours. You need to erase them.Then you ..You are experienced now.. All the best Firts prepare the tools for your next formatting !


Seeking spam filter that uses a database shared by all its users One thing that's great about Gmail is that it uses the entire userbase to identify spam - if enough users mark something as spam, it's likely spam and gets marked for everyone as such.

Are free spam filter systems available for OS X and/or Linux that work similarly, so that I can use them with regular single-user IMAP mail accounts?

I realize that there are plenty of bayesan based filters, but those need training and do not work so well in my experience.

Note that I am not talking about providing mail filtering for a mail server with 100s of users. Instead, as an end user, I want to run a mail filter as a background process on my Mac, scanning my IMAP inbox regularly and moving likely spam to another folder. And when I mark something as spam manually, this process should share this information with a common server (which I'd pay to use) or a decentralized distribution system, and thereby identifying likely spam as a "hive intelligence".

The short answer to this is NO.

I think you are confusing Gmail's SPAM filtering methodology with single user methodology.  What you have to remember is that Gmail is a cloud based service and it IS providing mail service to billions of users.  So, even though you have a single email address with SPAM filtering, it's filtering for all users.

Additionally, SPAM filtering is a "learning" process - meaning the system learns what SPAM is as it goes.  The moment you take it from the cloud (or server) to your local machine, it can't learn from other email accounts.  (Which is why you want to share the database)

Once you have to create an infrastructure to start sharing the database to be able share what it has learned, you would have found it's easier and cheaper to set up a mail server and use a SPAM filter module.

My suggestion is to use a cloud based email provider.  I personally use hosted Exchange directly from Microsoft and I pay on $48 per year for this service.  In addition, I have a "private" email address I only give to colleagues and "disposable" email address I use when registering for websites, trade shows, and product downloads.  Using this technique I can easily identify SPAM; the result is that I have an extremely clean mailbox.

you may want to try SpamSieve, here my review after usage of almost 1 year : http://geer.fr/tired-of-spam-try-spamsieve/


Calendar stopped working properly on iPhone. How can I fix it? The calendar in my iPhone does not allow me to input new events.  It was working fine, and I did nothing different to the Phone.  When I try to input a new event, it won't 'stick'.
Here's what I know:

I can add an event directly into iCloud, and it will show up on iCal on my computer and in my iPhone.
I can add event on my computer in iCal and it will show up on my iPhone, but not in my iCloud calendar.
I try to add an event into the calendar on iPhone, and nothing shows up anywhere.

OSX 10.7.5
iPhone 7.0.4

You may be inadvertently saving the event to the wrong calendar. Often email accounts, such as Gmail automatically enable a calendar when being set up. If the event shows up only on your iPhone, and nowhere else, chances are your default calendar is set to something that you are not used to checking.

When you create an event, scroll down to where you can see the menu item "Calendar". Tap that, and choose one of your iCloud calendars. If the event then shows up on iCloud, and your computer, you have chosen the correct calendar.

If this is case, you will probably want to change your default calendar by opening your Settings.app, scrolling down and selecting "Mail, Contacts, and Calendar". At the bottom of this screen is a section titled "Calendars". Change the "Default Calendar" to reflect the one that worked correctly.

I Cloud has to be activated.  My calendar didn't have a + (exist) until I activated I Cloud.


Edit column browser of a playlist in iTunes 12.4 Whenever I create a new playlist a new design is showing up. The problem here is, I can't edit the column browser anymore i.e. create a new column or change its order or size.

Is there a way to solve this problem? If it's not possible, is there a way to go back to the previous design without downgrading iTunes?
I've heard that this new design was for the "Playlist" mode and back in 12.2 you were able to change this mode back to "Song" mode. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find it. Is it gone, too?

Here's a picture of the old design:

And here one of the new design:

I've been able to find the tool where you're able to switch between these two modes. It used to be on the upper right, but now you can find it in View As/Title on the View menu.

select your playlist
go to view>view as, then change from playlist to songs


How to change the default macOS login window keyboard layout? I type using a keyboard layout other than the standard QWERTY. This question will apply to those who type using Dvorak, Colemak, QWERTZ, or any other international or non-standard keyboard layout.

My keyboard layout (Dvorak) is different than the standard keyboard layout for my country / locale. So this question isn't simply solved by setting a default locale; I also need to specify a default keyboard layout.

When I log in to my macOS user account, my personal keyboard layout is always used. It's also selected on the Lock Screen if I ever Lock the computer.

But when I first boot my Mac after a Restart or Shut Down, the QWERTY keyboard layout is always selected.

I'm forced to hunt-and-peck my password because my keyboard layout is not set. Or, I can manually change the keyboard layout via the Input menu (which is shown, but is not the focus of this question).

How can I change the default keyboard layout used on the macOS login window / startup screen?

In Terminal, run this to copy your keyboard settings to the default settings:
sudo cp ~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.HIToolbox.plist /Library/Preferences/
via Change the default keyboard of OSX login screen permanently


Stopping false positive malware warnings in Catalina? Today, I received a pop-up warning saying "hpRaster.bundle will damage your computer. You should move it to the Trash".
"hpRaster.bundle" is installed by Mac OS X as part of its drivers for my HP Laserjet P1102w printer.
I ran a malware search on CleanMyMac X, and it only flagged up an issue with Safari. (Dealt with.)
Is there anything I can do to prevent these false positive warnings happening save waiting for Apple to push updates?

Unfortunately, this appears to be an issue with HP printer drivers and/or Catalina 10.15.7 - I'm one of many people with the same issue. Lots of us are reporting the same symptoms on the HP Support forums, but at the time of writing there's no fix. Based on experiences so far, HP are ignoring the issue, hanging up on phone calls, or claiming that you'll need to buy a new printer.
All indications at the moment are that there's some kind of issue with the driver signing. Using AirPrint may be a workaround.
I'll update this answer if anything substantial changes.
UPDATE: The issue has now been resolved. We can assume that Apple and/or HP has reinstated the code signing certificate, or added the signature to a whitelist, or some other behind-the-scenes magic. No user intervention was required for me - no reinstallation of drivers or anything else, the printer that was failing to start a few days ago now works without any problems.

By the time I read this page, I had already tried Apple Software Update (multiple times) so I tried HP Easy Start.  The bad news is that I'm still seeing a diagnostic about Matterhorn.framework, whatever that is.  The good news is that printing proceeds (I reach the summit (heh)) after closing the malware notification.  Closing the earlier malware notifications shutdown printing.


MacBook Pro - Can't get to recovery mode I was given a 2nd hand MacBook Pro. When I tried to boot with Command+R to get into the recovery mode I get this lock screen.

I don't know the password - is there any way to reset it?

That's the screen for a firmware password. An Apple Store or Apple Authorized Service Provider can remove it for you assuming the machine is newer than 2011 and you can prove ownership.

Other than that, there are a few low probability solutions you can try yourself:

Internet Recovery Mode by holding Option-Command-R or Shift-Option-Command-R at startup.
Boot from an external hard drive.
Create a bootable macOS USB flash drive (instructions here).

If the machine is attached to an iCloud account, you can wipe the machine.

I think you will need to go to an Apple store with the original owner or proof of ownership.

Don’t whine about it. This is a feature that keeps stolen Mac’s from becoming a thing. With Catalina, the original user will even be able to track the location of a stolen device, even if it’s off and the battery has been removed.


OS X El Capitan: Connected to Wi-Fi / Personal Hotspot network but not connected to Internet I recently updated to El Capitan.

But now when connection is established with my college's Wi-Fi network I am unable to use internet. Same goes for Personal Hotspots.

Everything was working fine in Yosemite.

How can I fix this?

Try setting a new network location. Network Preferences/edit top drop down/new location/apply If that doesn't work you may need to reinstall OS to resolve software issue.

See if you set a wrong DNS address in system preferences -> network


Replace or add graphic card on Macbook Pro Is that possible to replace the existing graphic card of a Macbook Pro (Mid 2010, Mini DisplayPort, GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GT 330M) for a graphic card that could support 2 screen output?

Or else is it possible to add another graphic card in (or outside) the Macbook so that I can use another display.

What I am trying to do is have dual external screen (Macbook Pro docked and closed).

I have tried DisplayLink USB to DVI adapter but it's really choppy and unusable for me (photo and video editing). I can't even watch a video on it, you can even see the difference when moving the mouse (and I have a i7 quadcore processor -_-). I thought it was an external graphic card, I had no idea that the processor would be doing the job instead (and very poorly).

Furthermore I don't want to spend $200 or $300 to try the Matrox DualHead2Go and finally consider that the fact that it's one big "screen" extended over 2 screens (and not 2 real screen separed) is annoying (i'm really afraid this is would be a pain).

So I'm looking for a real solution for Macbook Pro dual external screen.

Change my graphic card? (I don't even know where the second video output would go...). Or add another graphic card externally? (USB? does that even exist?)

Unfortunately, there is not a cheap good or ideal way to do this.

The graphics card is a key integrated part of the logic board on the MacBook Pro, there really is no separation of it from it to do an upgrade, short of replacing the entire motherboard, and even then you would be limited to what was available at the time for that generation of MacBook Pro.

See that orange highlighted square, thats the NVidia GeForce pictured below:

Honestly, the Matrox route is probably the most affordable workable solution to this problem.

This MacBook Pro also lacks an ExpressCard/34 slot or Thunderbolt so you really can't go the route of an external graphics card. And even if you could you would be talking over $500 USD just to get the external PCI express chassis, for example Magma's ExpressBox 1 starts at $829 for just one external PCI Express slot, you would still need to spend another ~ $200 to buy a mac compatible graphics card.

Your last option is to maybe reevaluate if this MacBook Pro is the right machine for your needs. Would a newer model MacBook Pro with Thunderbolt solve this problem, maybe maybe not. If you don't have two Thunderbolt Displays, you are kind of still out of luck hooking up dual displays to even a Thunderbolt MacBook Pro, with out the need for expensive external adapters.

Would an iMac, Mac Mini, or Mac Pro better suit your computing needs, complimented with a basic MacBook Air or iPad of some kind for your mobility needs.


No signal to external monitor until after login (MacBook Pro 2020) My external monitor works fine but only after I log in using the MacBook display. Prior to logging in it sends no signal. Once logged in, it suddenly starts receiving signal and works exactly as expected.
The cable connecting it to my display is a USB-C to HDMI.
How can I make it work correctly before logging in?

How can I make it work correctly before logging in?

It is working correctly.  Your built in screen is the main screen and during boot all boot/console messages are sent (they’re usually hidden by the Apple logo).  The login screen is set to display on the main screen so until you login to the GUI, there’s nothing to display on the secondary display.
But, based on your comments, what you want to do is use your Mac in closed lid or closed clamshell mode:

I have the displays mirrored so I was hoping to see the logon screen. The MacBook sits at the back of my desk partially hidden by the external monitor and I use the external monitor as my main screen so it’s a little inconvenient that I have to move it to see the screen better just to log in

If the display is partially hidden/obstructed and you have the contents mirrored and not as an extended display, this is a perfect scenario to use the Mac in closed clamshell mode.  The secondary/external display will become the main display and boot and login screens will appear there.


How to install AMD Crimson video drivers on iMac 5K (Late 2014) in Bootcamp? I installed Windows 10 using Bootcamp on my iMac.

Bootcamp installed a bunch of drivers including one that allows proper 5K rendering on Windows.

However when I play a recent game Rainbow Six Siege, I see a ton of flickering of textures. The more I move around and shoot, the more they flick around.

Googling leads me to the solution of installing the new AMD Crimson driver's however, it seems I cannot install it on a Bootcamp Windows 10 version.

Is there a way around this?

My specs:

http://www.remkoweijnen.nl/blog/2015/09/21/update-amd-display-driver-under-bootcamp/

it worked out for me I have the same config as you and I had the same problems with Rainbow Six Siege
good luck trying


OS X Mavericks bash_profile paths don't work I need to create a new path in OS X Mavericks.

To do so, I edited .bash_profile:

export LC_ALL="en_US.UTF-8"
export PGHOST=localhost

export PATH=$PATH:/usr/local/heroku/bin
export PATH=$PATH:/Applications/Postgres93.app/Contents/MacOS/bin

But it doesn't work. When I type echo $PATH, the result is:

/usr/local/heroku/bin:/usr/local/rvm/gems/ruby-2.0.0-p0/bin:/usr/local/rvm/gems/ruby-2.0.0-p0@global/bin:/usr/local/rvm/rubies/ruby-2.0.0-p0/bin:/usr/local/rvm/bin:/usr/bin:/bin:/usr/sbin:/sbin:/usr/local/bin:/Users/nicolas/.rvm/bin:/usr/local/rvm/bin

This is the content of my .bashrc file:

PATH=$PATH:$HOME/.rvm/bin # Add RVM to PATH for scripting
PATH=$PATH:/usr/local/rvm/bin # Add RVM to PATH for scripting

I don't have (or find) a .profile file.

What am I doing wrong?

After editing the login file you need to either run the source command on the login file or create a new terminal session before the updated environment variables will be available.

For Example:

source .bash_profile

I prefer to use this method of adding to the path. That way, if the file is executed multiple times, $PATH doesn't add redundant paths.

##
# DELUXE-HOME-BIN-INSERT
# (do not remove this comment)
##
echo $PATH | grep -q -s "${HOME}/bin"
if [ $? -eq 1 ] ; then
    PATH=$PATH:/bin
    export PATH
fi

If you're trying to set paths/variables/completions/etc using process substitution on Mavericks, like this:

. <(npm completion)

That won't work: https://lists.gnu.org/archive/html/bug-bash/2006-01/msg00018.html  Bash refuses to source from /dev/fds.

Basically, Mavericks's bash is far too old.  Either install and configure your account to use a newer bash, or rewrite your script to use tempfiles or named processes.  Here's an ugly example of a rewrite: dotfiles commit

(added for other google searchers who stumble across this page)


Recovery Mode not Normal I am working on my macbook pro (2012). I let a colleague borrow it for some work, and they did some weird things with it, but it looked ok when I shut it down yesterday. When I tried to boot it up this morning, it did not load my admin profile for me to log in to, but after about a minute a picture of a file folder with a question mark appeared and was blinking on the screen.
After rebooting it several times and then trying safe mode with the same results, I tried to start it in recovery mode with cmd-R (and eventually three other key combinations for recovery mode, but it would only start in internet recovery mode). I can’t use internet recovery right now because my only source of internet is on my phone hotspot, and it won’t even allow me to connect to my phone.
Please help.

Reset your NVram
BTW the recovery partition downloads the OS from online, so you're going to want an Internet connection
From apple: How to reset NVRAM

Shut down your Mac, then turn it on and immediately press and hold these four keys together: Option, Command, P, and R. You can release the keys after about 20 seconds, during which your Mac might appear to restart.
On Mac computers that play a startup sound, you can release the keys after the second startup sound.
On Mac computers that have the Apple T2 Security Chip, you can release the keys after the Apple logo appears and disappears for the second time.

Also, the blinking question mark means that the drive needs to blessed, which can be done with this tool.
Unfortunately, this requires you rebooting onto an external macOS drive, or connecting to your computer from another mac with firewire 800 and rebooting into target disk mode.
Frankly, soneone you're working with shouldn't be doing anything that screws with your computer up this much, so when you have a chance make sure SIP is enabled (type into terminal csrutil status). If this is disabled (and you didn't disable it) I'd be concerned.
I hope you have a fairly recent backup in case.


Previous Owner's Apple ID Stills tied to App Store after Clean Install I've purchased a 2009 iMac, bought Mountain Lion from the App Store and performed a Clean Install, but when I open up the App Store, I still see messages to update apps that the previous owner had installed (I don't own them), furthermore, I'm prompted to sign in with his Apple ID in order to download these updates.

I thought that when I did a clean install, all of his information should have been deleted. Am I wrong? How could I get rid of this problem?

Now that you are on Mountain Lion, you can boot to recovery mode and re-erase the entire Macintosh HD (or whatever name the OS volume has). Perhaps your definition of clean install didn't actually clean the offending apps or you are connecting another hard drives with apps purchases from the previous owner's account. (The app store will offer to update any apps it sees, not just the ones in /Applications)

Here is a long article on recovery, but details at the bottom show explicit steps you would take to prepare an external drive to install Mountain Lion. You will want to perform those steps from Disk Utility when booted in recovery mode.

http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4718

Note, that if the previous owner had "redeemed" the iLife apps (as described in the article above), those will remain tied to their account so for you to install them, you will need to purchase iPhoto, iMovie and GarageBand since they are not part of the Mountain Lion software upgrade you purchased, but after a clean wipe, you won't have those applications and could only see them if you had a copy somewhere other than the wiped drive or signed in to see past purchases for that previous account.

May I give you some suggestion. you should bring your imac to one of the authorized replay center from apple .  and explain to then your situation . you should bring your buying document . let them  fix it for you . it 's will be a fee that you have to pay.

I  also bought a imac  and it is happening to me too.  my case is quite bad . the previous owner intents to lock my imac  after you brought it home for few days . even i erase everything , before i start using it .  they lock in the EFI firmware and they look with passcode . you couldn't get in unless you pay them more money  . .......
My case is  a very high price lesson . shouldn't buy a second hand imac or  any used apple products

take my advice ..  the security in Mac is very secure


How can I silence the screenshot camera sound? The sound effects for screenshots can be really annoying and loud at certain times.  How can I turn this off?  It makes the noise even when my volume is all the way down?

Update: I want to simply silence the sound effect, without any other side effects.  Turning on the phone's vibration mode means it will make noise when something causes it to vibrate, so this defeats the purpose.

To my knowledge, there technically is not a way to specifically and only disable the camera shutter sound for screenshots, but there are still solutions to stop it from making the sound:

One thing you can do is flip the mute toggle switch on the side of your device to be muted (silent/vibrate). You will see a Ringer Silent icon on the screen and may feel a vibration on an iPhone. After that, there will be no noise from the screenshot (among other things).

On an iPhone, if you don't wan't to get the vibration when turning the phone to silent, or if you want to leave it on silent without getting vibrations, you can go to Settings > Sound and toggle "Vibrate on Silent" off. Then it won't vibrate or make any noise. However, you also won't hear any notification sounds or vibrations at all, so you run the risk of missing some alerts. So in this case what you may want to do is flip the mute toggle to silent right before taking a screenshot (and it won't make any noise from vibration), and then after the screenshot flip it back to normal.

Another alternative, if you don't mind the camera shutter sound but just want it quieter, is that in Settings > Sounds you can slide Ringer and Alerts to minimum. It'll still make sounds, just quietly. But again you run the risk of missing your phone ringing in some situations as it'll be quiet.

Edit: I noticed that on iOS 10.3, when you toggle the mute switch while the camera is open, it does not make any vibration. So you could just toggle it to mute before you take the picture, and then toggle back to normal when you're done.

I found an option (on an Ipad) that will make it so that ringers and alerts will not be silenced. Hope this helps.


How to show "time until next scheduled calender" event (in menu bar) Is there a way to show time remaining until next calendar event? Preferably in the menu menu bar if possible? Maybe some other way to get something similar?

Here's a way to show the time remaining until the next calendar event in the menu bar.

Install icalBuddy in /usr/local/bin (the easiest way is with Homebrew: brew install ical-buddy)
Download and launch BitBar
Put the following script in the plugin folder you selected (as event.sh, for example):

#!/bin/bash

osascript <<'END'
set theEventInfo to do shell script "/usr/local/bin/icalBuddy -n -li 1 -uid -ec 'Birthdays' -ps '/|/' eventsToday+10 | sed 's/^.*(\\(.*\\)).*uid: \\(.*\\)$/\\1|\\2/'"

set prevDelimiter to AppleScript's text item delimiters
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to {"|"}
set theEventInfos to every text item of theEventInfo
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to prevDelimiter

set theEventCalendar to first item of theEventInfos
set theEventUID to second item of theEventInfos

tell application "Calendar"
    tell calendar theEventCalendar
        set theEvent to first event whose uid is theEventUID
        set duration to (start date of theEvent) - (current date)
        return "next event in " & duration div hours & ":" & text -2 thru -1 of ("0" & (duration div minutes - (duration div hours * 60))) & return & "---" & return & summary of theEvent & return & start date of theEvent
    end tell
end tell
END

A few notes:

There's room for improvements, but the basics are there.
It excludes the Birthdays calendar. It also can easily exclude all-day events by adding -ea in icalBuddy's parameters list

There is a free app called "How Long Left" in the app store. does exactly this.


Some photos in iPhoto showing as grey triangle with exclamation mark I am unable to view/access some photos - I get a grey triangle with an exclamation mark in it.

Try repairing the library. Hold ⌘⌥ and open iPhoto, then choose Repair Database.

If that doesn't fix it, hold ⌘⌥ and open iPhoto again, and select Rebuild Database.

Turning them horizontally makes them appear for some odd reason.


Can I use an iMac as monitor for MacBook Pro? Is this possible with an early 2009 iMac without Thunderbolt and a 2011 MacBook Pro?

My dream solution looks like a Apple Thunderbolt Display!

No, as the first iMac which allows this is the 27-inch Late 2009 iMac, as explained here.

There are, though, some Applications which may achieve something similar, requiring both computers to be connected to the same LAN/WiFi/VPN, and sending all the information, the one to be displayed on the second computer working as a display, through it. Such as ScreenRecycler. You can find some more here.

Yeah, you actually can. Check out a program called Screen Recycler. It costs money, but the trial will work for long enough.

Also, check out air server and air parrot. If you run air parrot on the macbook, and connect to the iMac with air server, it will also work.


What is the best way to view Wikipedia offline on the iPad? I'd like to view most articles of Wikipedia while I'm offline. I understand that it doesn't have to be or probably could be all articles, but a good subset would be nice.

I use the Wikipanion free version on my iPad and there's a Wikipanion Plus available that supports offline viewing.  I'm happy with Wikipanion on my iPad and iPhone.  Hope that helps!

I downloaded and access the whole wikipedia offline by following a tutorial given here(using kiwix) -  http://www.superpctricks.com/2013/10/download-entire-wikipedia-and-access-it.html


Xcode problem with directory permissions I'm trying XCode4. I created a new project, told XCode to put in my ~/develop/ directory, but then I immediately get asked:

  “Test project” is locked for editing and you may not be able to save your
  changes. Do you want to unlock it?

  “Test project” is currently locked
  because you do not own the parent
  folder and have no write permissions
  for it.

  [Don't Unlock]     [Unlock]

...which isn't true: my ~/develop/ folder is owned by me (staff group) and has drwxr-xr-x permissions. I write to it every day. XCode is running as my account.

Is XCode right? What can I do to fix this? If I press “Don't Unlock” it seems to work fine.

If you navigate to that folder from Finder, you can click Get Info and manage the permissions from the bottom of the window. You can navigate there by using the Go To Folder menu item in Finder or directly navigating their.

After changing my home directory name Xcode gave the same warning on a project I was working on. The work around I used was to create a duplicate of the project.


Unable to update any Apps I am unable to update any of my apps on my iPad Air and can not add a new app. When I try to update I get a spinning circle. There has been no error notice. Any idea what the problem is?

That happened to me with my iPad Air. I solved it by backing my iPad up to iTunes and then deleting the app from my iPad through iTunes, then I clicked Apply. I then downloaded the app from the App Store again. This will delete any data the app has on your iPad.

YMMV, as a few months later this app (Pages) was doing the same thing again, so I put it off and put it off and I never fixed it again, but when I updated to the iOS 9 Public Beta on my iPad the app was fixed! So you might just wait a couple of months until iOS 9 comes out and the update should hopefully fix the app for you.


How do I save data from old 2 old iPhones then transfer data from one to the other? My wife has an iPhone 3, 8GB, that is slowly dying. My mother (who is dead) left me her iPhone, a 16GB 3GS.

How do I:

Keep all the information from the phones. My mother's phone especially has sentimental value?
Wipe the 3GS?
Transfer everything from the 3 to the 3GS?

We don't care if the phone is jail-broken or not (they are not at the moment). Both phones are on the same provider.

iTunes can back up everything except for data that came from a computer.

That means apps not authorized on your iTunes, music from a computer and pictures not taken on the device (stored in the camera roll) are not backed up. Assuming you don't need to recover that information, just back up the devices and archive the iTunes backup folders so you can re-load those backups on another comparable device from a PC or a Mac.

Read up on the details here:

iPhone and iPod touch: About backups

Once you've got a sure backup (I'd get a loaner phone from a friend to check the restore to see that you are happy before erasing any of the devices), you can then restore the "wife" backup onto the "mom" phone.

You may try the "restore and backup" function on iTunes.Made a bakup for your iPhone 3 first and then restore your iPhone 3gs from the iPhone 3' backup files.

How to back up
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1766

How to restore
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1414


Can OSX mail auto-search & complete a mail address? In Outlook there is this highly useful feature to automatically search and complete a mail address in the recipient field (To:) with CTRL+K. Even if you never mailed with someone before, it will search for your input in any global address books you're syncing with (like your company's account). When there is only one match, it auto-prefills it, so it saves the hassle of looking someone up, copying their address and only after that pasting it in your mail window

Can OSX mail automatically search and complete a mail address you've never mailed with before, but which is in one of the address books you're syncing with?

Yes, Mail App could auto-fill the email address according to your Contacts even though you've mailed with before. Certainly, you can search the whole Contacts by your self.


Front facing camera stopped working on the iPhone 4s Attempted to use the Camera App today and was presented with a closed shutter screen in the Camera app as pictured below. No tramma or anything happend to the phone no recent OS update, just not working out of the blue.

If I open the FaceBook app and go to the "Take Picture" section, the camera opens successfully, but when I attempt to switch to the front camer, it goes back and gets stuck at the shut shutter screen.

What I have tried:

Quitting the "Camera" app and re-opening it
Shutting down and restarting the iPhone.
The force shutdown method, hold power + home button until it turns off.
The Restore in iTunes

Still the same rear camera works, and when attempting to switch to the front camera boom closed shutter screen.

Any other ideas, it looks like I have a hardware problem...

This is a hardware problem. This comes up when the ribbon connector from the camera to the main circuit board comes loose or gets disconnected altogether. If you have the right tools and enough DIY skills to open up your iPhone, it's a very simple fix that should be fairly obvious to see. Otherwise, the Apple Store should be able to repair it for you (I would think free of charge, but who knows).

If you do want to take apart your iPhone and attempt the repair yourself, PowerBook Medic has some really nice instructions for taking apart all versions of iPhones from 3GS and above. They also sell replacement parts and will repair it for you as well if you want. (Disclaimer: I have no affiliation nor prior experience with this company, so use at your own risk.)

This is what the front camera of an iPhone 4 looks like:

That little white/silver part is what's probably come loose; just pushing down on it gently should allow it to snap right back in.

i cant find any ways to fix mine so I put it rice


Meaning of "./" in Mac terminal I am a new user of the Mac terminal.  What is the meaning of "./"?  What is the difference between the commands

rm image.png
rm ./image.png
rm *./image.png

./ is part of the path to a directory/file.

If used as part of a parameter to a command

rm image.png and rm ./image.png are exactly the same and identify a file in the current directory
rm *./image.png is a pattern which looks for files named image.png in all subdirectories of the current directory which end with a dot

The key use for ./ usually is to call a script/executable in the current directory. When you execute a command without specifiying it's directory (e.g. cp instead of /bin/cp), the shell searches for this in all directories listed in the $PATH variable. The current directory is usually not part of that variable (for security reasons) so you can use ./command-name to tell the shell to look for the command in the current directory.

The expression in a file path, (./) means 'move up' (from the current location), i.e., 'this' = '.' and / = 'up'   so  ../ means 'move up 2 directories', or, move to the parent of this (./), i.e., take the current location and move up to '/' the new location.


What directory comparison tools can I use on OS X? I am looking for a tool that is able to compare directories, not only files. Also it is important to be able to call the tool from the command line.

It would be great to have a free tool, if not free please specify the price.

FileMerge (free), shipped with Xcode, offers a directory view.
A command line version is available through the Terminal application opendiff.

Here's how you can compare two directories with FileMerge:

⌘+space, type in "FileMerge" and open it.
Click the "left" button and choose the folder you would like to move items FROM. (The "old" folder)
Click the "right" button and choose the folder you would like to move items TO. ("new" folder) and click "Compare" button
In the right panel, choose to exclude: "identical" and "Changed right". This way you will only see files which are missing in the "new" folder and ignore files your may have added in the "new" folder.
Move files manually in Finder or let FileMerge do it, by choosing an option in the "Merge" dropdown in the right panel.

Easiest solution: Sync the files using Dropbox or similar, then just use WinMerge on Windows.

The FileMerge utility that ships with Xcode doesn't compare folders and doesn't do merge/editing.


How to have arrows for moving the cursor up and down when writing text on iPhone? When writing paragraph on iPhone, I need to quickly move the cursor up and down so that I can go to lines above and below respectively.

Although, you can do this by touch and holding the cursor, and then moving it to wherever you want, I specifically need to have a keyboard stroke.

When filling up forms, you see the up and down keys.

Is there any keyboard out there that has this feature?

The arrows you see in your screenshot move the cursor to the previous or next form input field, they do not navigate within a text field to go to previous or following lines. If you have a phone supporting 3D Touch, you can force press on the stock iOS keyboard to quickly move the cursor (the phone will vibrate and the letters will disappear, then the keyboard area acts like a touchpad to control the cursor). If your phone does not support 3D Touch, you double tap and keep your fingers on the screen on the second tap for the same effect.


How to hide quoted text in Lion Mail? In Mail's conversation view, by default, quoted text is hidden and can be shown by clicking "See More from XXX" in the bottom of each message. After clicking that, how can quoted text be hidden again?

From the list of mails, change the mail and come back to the previous one. It automatically folds all the quotes when you revisit it.

Go to 'adjust (customize?) toolbar". Drag the "conversations" icon into your toolbar. Now you can click on that icon to hide or show all quoted text again.


Can't delete Exchange account from Mail or Internet Accounts preferences The Yosemite upgrade completely hosed Mail—it just won't talk to the Exchange server anymore.

"No problem," I think, "I'll just delete the account and start over as it's all on the server."

If I try and delete the account from Mail.app's preferences, it says "The Mail account “foo@bar.com” is shared by other applications on this Mac. You can remove this account in Internet Accounts."

Ok, so I click on Internet Accounts, it opens Preferences, and the Exchange account isn't there.

(Interestingly enough, I get the exact same problem when I try and remove the account via Contacts and Calendar's preferences—even when "Enable this account" is unchecked in all three.)

So how do I force Yosemite to delete all traces of an Exchange account?

The thing is since MountainLion with cached preferences. You could try the following really hard solution (last line of defense), which trashes all you Apple Mail settings and all of your Internet accounts including twitter accounts etc. et al:

backup your Library folder to somewhere else like your Desktop or another HD
from Terminal, delete the folder "~/Library/Containers/com.apple.mail" and "~/Library/Containers/com.apple.internetaccounts"
from Terminal, delete Apple Mail Preferences with "defaults delete -app Mail" (this resets your apple mail plist to default values)
logout and login again.

If this doesn't work, copy your Library folder back and we have to find another way.

This totally worked for me. I will be surprised if your mileage varies.

https://www.telnetport25.com/2020/04/macos-catalina-there-was-an-error-in-internet-accounts-preferences/


Thunderbolt ethernet adapter ist not appearing in netwoks tab I have bought an Apple Thunderbolt Ethernet Adapter and can't seem to get it to work.

It simply does not appear in the Network section of System preferences, even though the System Information dialog shows it is connected.

Here is how it looks: http://imgur.com/a/WUfbD

I have tried everything from here already.

I have el capitan and a retina macbook pro.

EDIT: I took it to the store and they confirmed it works fine. So it seems to be a software issue.

EDIT2: I solved it by reinstalling from scratch.

For strange issues affecting peripherals, your can always try resetting the NVRAM. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204063

I have now solved it by reinstalling mac OS from scratch.


Making Time Machine Backups while Mac is in Sleep Mode I'd like my Mac to be able to save a Time Machine backup even when I have it in sleep mode. Is there a way I can have my Mac wake up at a certain time automatically in order for Time Machine to run?

You can schedule your Mac to wake from sleep or boot at a specific time. Go to System Preferences, then the Energy Saver pane. In there, at the bottom-right, is a "Schedule…" button. Pressing it brings up a sheet where you can set a day and time to wake up and another to go to sleep. If you leave a half-hour or so between the wake up and sleep times, it should have enough time to back up.

I must say, there's not much point in running a Time Machine backup when you haven't been using the computer: if you're not using it, nothing has changed, so there's nothing new to back up. I should also note that if the computer is shut down (like if you're on vacation) it'll boot and then go to sleep if you don't turn the schedule off before you leave.

Try Time Machine Editor in conjunction with System Preferences > Energy Saver > Schedule Wakeup.


What does the "arrow" icon shown in the iPhone status bar indicate? The icon shows an arrow like symbol pointing towards upper right. It appears towards the left of the battery indicator in iPhone.

What does this mean?

This icon represents Location Services. The icon isn't generally shown all the time. The appearance of this icon indicates that some iOS app/service has recently accessed your current location.

The appearance of the icon can be configured by going to Settings app → Privacy → Location Services → System Services on your iPhone and toggling the switch shown in front of Status Bar Icon item.

Your iPhone may use not just GPS, but a combination of various technologies such as Bluetooth, crowd-sourced Wi-Fi hotspots, location determined by cellular towards, and other GPS like technologies such, GLONASS, Galileo, and QZSS to determine the current location.

Also, as shown above the Status Bar Icon item, the icon itself could be styled in different form to convey different information.


Two Factor Authentication on 10.10.5 Yosemite I cannot find where to get my two factor authentication verification code from in settings on the Mac, neither is there any input field for me to type in the code. What do I do?

You need to be running El Capitan or later.

See Apple KB - Availability of two-factor authentication for Apple ID

If your Mac can run Yosemite, it can run El Capitan.

Unfortunately I need the 2-factor authentication to get the upgrade to El Capitan or higher - nice feature, I guess I better install Windows ...


Find My iPad setting prevents restore I'm trying to restore my iPad because the screen passcode was changed and cannot be remembered correctly. When attempting to restore from an iTunes backup, an error message says to first turn off Find My iPad in iCloud settings. I cannot access any setting in the iPad because of the screen lock passcode. Is there another way to do a reset or full factory reset while screen-locked?

Try setting the iPad in recovery mode:

connect the iPad to your computer

turn it completely off

press the power button (top button) for three (3) seconds

without letting go of the power button, press the Home button

keep them pressed for ten (10) seconds

after the ten seconds, let go of the power button without letting go of the Home button

keep pressing the Home button until a message pops in iTunes saying

iTunes has detected a device in recovery mode, you must restore it before you can use it.

restore the iPad

Try doing this a few times if you dont succeed the first time.

I had the same problem; none of the suggested fixes worked.

I used voice commands to disable "voice over". This allowed the unit to unlock.


How do I disable System Integrity Protection (SIP) AKA "rootless" on macOs [OS X] Apple has introduced System Integrity Protection, also known as "rootless", with OS X 10.11, El Capitan. I understand this is a step for general protection against malware but as a developer I need write access to some of the files it locks away.

How do I disable this protection?

Apple's documentation covers disabling SIP, About System Integrity Protection on your Mac and Configuring System Integrity Protection.

An article on lifehacker.com lists these steps:

  Reboot your Mac into Recovery Mode by restarting your computer and holding down Command+R until the Apple logo appears on your screen.
  Click Utilities > Terminal.
  In the Terminal window, type in csrutil disable and press Enter.
  Restart your Mac.

You can verify whether a file or folder is restricted by issuing this ls command using the capital O (and not zero 0) to modify the long listing flag:

ls -lO /System /usr

Look for the restricted text to indicate where SIP is enforced.

By default (=SIP enabled), the following folders are restricted (see Apple Support page):

/System
/usr
/bin
/sbin
Apps that are pre-installed with OS X

... and the following folders are free:

/Applications
/Library
/usr/local

If you can't get into Recovery Partition to run csrutil disable (to disable SIP), try setting boot args with nvram command, e.g.

sudo nvram boot-args="rootless=0"

However, if you've got the following error:

  nvram: Error setting variable - 'boot-args': (iokit/common) not permitted

then it won't work. You still need to boot it recovery/safe mode.

See:

Setting a NVRAM variable in normal boot not permitted but allowed in recovery mode
Restarting in safe mode without using the shift key under Mojave


Can't download apps on IPad 2 Whenever I go to try and download an app it tells me that I have already purchased it and don't need to pay again then the download stops. I am using iOS 7. The download stops in iTunes.

I've had similar problems in the past and my solutions were pretty simple.

Sign Out and Sign in iTunes & App Store, in the settings app.

Delete your iCloud and Sign in, in settings.

  Make sure you select keep data and select merge when you sign back in.

Click on the cloud symbol with the arrow pointing down. Your app, once purchased, is stored in iCloud.


How to manage multiple ssh sessions with ease on Mac OS X At my upcoming job i will handle many servers with SSH access. It will be like ~100-120 hosts, with different username on most of the hosts, and i'm pretty sure i will not remember each host domain name, not to mention which username is on each host.

Is there a tool for Mac OS X (Lion preferably) which would allow me to define a session for each host (in a session i mean username and some ssh options), show list of such sessions and connect on click/select automatically?

There are two ways I manage, or have seen people manage, SSH data:

Good 'ole, command line, plain text, ssh_config file.

Create a file called config inside ~/.ssh. You can specify global parameters by putting them above any host declarations. When I started using MacPorts, I had to explicitly define a default SSH Private Key to use automatically when connecting, so as the very first line of the file I put;

IdentityFile ~/.ssh/id_rsa

When you define custom rules for hosts (and you can even use * as a wildcard), it looks something like this:

Host prod-*
  User jason
  Port 2222
  LocalForward 5901 localhost:5901
  IdentityFile ~/.ssh/work-id_rsa

Then when I run ssh prod-script for example, all the rest of the rules get applied automatically.

A lot of people who don't want to manually manage all their stuff in such a cumbersome manner quickly find JellyfiSSH. (Mac App Store Link. The same people also became very annoyed when it stopped being downloadable for free.)

JellyfiSSH gives you GUI access to almost everything that can be specified in the command line or ssh_config file. JellyfiSSH is just a configuration storage app for organization purposes, because it generates the commands based off the options you set and upon clicking connect, opens a new terminal window with all of your options defined on the command line. JellyfiSSH is not a terminal app on it's own.

You can try vSSH app for Mac OS X (PuTTY-based).

Manage connection list (host, port, username, password, keys and a lot of other settings)
Can almost everything that PuTTY can
Multi-tab multi-window interface
Macros support (you shell scripts as menu items for quick access)
iCloud synchronization (connections, macros and keys) with vSSH and SSH control apps for iOS

Available on the Mac AppStore.


10.9 Mail "smart mailbox" doesn't filter properly I have a smart mailbox setup to combine the inboxes of my 3 Gmail accounts.  It worked great in 10.8.  In Mavericks, this "smart inbox" frequently shows messages which have already been archived, and do not appear in the regular Gmail inbox within Mail.app.  This screenshot shows an example.  So Mail recognizes that the two messages are archived, yet they still show up here.  These two messages do no appear in the regular Gmail inbox within Mail.

I have already tried deleting and recreating the smart mailbox.  I show its settings below.

Here are two more possible solutions.

Reset Permissions

chmod -a 'everyone deny write,delete,append,writeattr,writeextattr,chown' ~/Library/Mobile\ Documents/com~apple~mail/Data/MailData/* ~/Library/Mobile\ Documents/com~apple~mail/Data/MailData/Signatures/*

This resets permissions on email related items (you can reset permissions on everything in Disk Utility).

Remove Indexes

rm -rf ~/Library/Mail/V2/MailData/Envelope*
mdimport ~/Library/Mail

This second possibility gets rid of Mail's index (Mail will rebuild it upon restart) and refreshes Spotlight with your email content.

Have you tried a rebuild of the mailboxes in question?

In the Mailboxes list select your Inbox and then select Mailbox > Rebuild then do the same with the Gmail (All Mail) mailbox.

Rebuilding the Gmail mailboxes may take some time.

I would then quit Mail and restart.


How can I get photos from my DSLR (with a CF card) to my iPad wirelessly? I can shot tethered to my MBP (using LR3) but then how do I get them to the iPad wirelessly or better yet bypass the MBP altogether?  I know they have a wifi card for SD cameras but my dslr only uses CF cards.

You have a variety of choices!

Without using the MBP:

A iPad card reader such as http://photojojo.com/store/awesomeness/ipad-cf-sd-reader/ (not supported by Apple) for CF cards.
If your DSLR has a USB port, get the Apple Camera Connection Kit and plug in your camera via USB.

This may not work, depending on your camera. It needs to support either Mass Storage Device or Picture Transfer Protocol. The older your camera, the less likely it is to support these transfer options. I recommend trying a connection kit belonging to a friend or a friendly shop first.
Get an SD-CF adaptor for your camera, a SD card, and the Camera Connection Kit.
Get an SD-CF adaptor for your camera, a Eye-Fi brand WiFi SD card, and their free iPad app.

Using the MBP:

Get an SD-CF adaptor for your camera, a WiFi SD card, the latest iPhoto and sync via iCloud.
Tether your camera to your MBP, and use the latest iPhoto to sync via iCloud.

There are compact flash card readers for the iPad that plug into the dock connector

Just Google iPad cf card reader for them


My SD card is not showing up in Finder I have a SD card that I put into my MacBook Pro. It then showed up in finder. I wanted to access it and I accidentally dragged the mounted card and now it's gone from Finder.

Taking out the card and inserting it again, didn't help. How can I find my SD card drive again?

In the Finder's sidebar, there should be a section called 'Devices'. Click on the one that's your computer's name and you should see the SD card. Drag it back to the sidebar.

Nothing works. That's the solution. Plug in the camera with a cable, that will work.


Is there a way to find the timestamp of a photo in an iPhone4, without syncing with a computer? Is there any way of figuring out when a photo on my iPhone4 has been taken, without first importing the photo to a Mac or PC?

Since the available photo options within iOS are limited, I don't think it's possible without any 3th party software.

King Camera is such an app. It shows some meta data about every photo you took with the app.