MySQL server (MariaDB) cannot start I'm trying to start MySQL server (Maria DB 10.0.12, installed via Homebrew) but it's not working.

When I run mysql.server start, it keeps running forever without actually starting the server.

mysql.server configtest tells me the config is fine and there is nothing in MySQL error log.

I haven't actually changed anything to MySQL recently, though I've upgraded PHP and other modules (but I guess that shouldn't be related).

Any idea what could be causing this, or how to debug it?

One place to start debugging this is to check for a err file. It will be named with the hostname of your Mac and you should find it in /usr/local/var/mysql. So if you Mac is called charles the file should be /usr/local/var/mysql/charles.err.


Permissions issue when copying files over SMB to server on OS X 10.9 Mavericks First of all I'd like to say that I've spent most of the day trying to figure this problem out. I've already read quite some articles on this issue but can't seem to find the specific issue I'm experiencing.

I'm running OS X 10.9 Mavericks on a Mac Mini.
Our server is running Linux Gentoo. At this point I'm not exact sure which version.

The problem

When I connect to a server on our company network with the SMB or CIFS protocol I can mount the volumes from that server. I can also access and read the files on all the volumes (so far as I know). I connect through the admin username and password for this server.

However, when I try to copy files to one particularly volume I get prompted by Finder to enter my username and password. After I've entered my OSX user credentials I get an error stating the following:

  The operation can’t be completed because you don’t have permission to access some of the items.

I therefor cannot copy files to this specific volume on our server. I can however copy files to other volumes on our server.

Attempted Solutions

Solutions I've already attempted are:

Connecting through CIFS rather then SMB
Changing the permissions on said files to read/write by everyone
Attempting to install Samba to be used instead of OS X's SMB implementation

None of these attempts have managed to solve the problem I'm experiencing.

Some more alternative attempts

What I also tried to do was to give my files to a colleague which runs OS X Mountain Lion so he could attempt to copy the files to said volume. He got the same problem and was also prompted by Finder to provide his credentials on which afterwards failed to copy because of the above permissions error.
He can however copy his own files to said volume without any problem.

When I provided my files to a colleague which is using Windows 8 he succeeded in copying my files to said volume.

TL;DR

Can't copy files over SMB to specific server volume from OSX Mavericks. Can read however.

Any help is very much appreciated.

Update #1

Some people have suggested that I needed to enter the server credentials in the Finder prompt but it doesn't allow that. I can only enter my OSX account credentials.

I also want to indicate that I connect to the server with the same user account and login as most of my colleagues. So I connect with the same account as colleagues which can copy files to the server. I, however, keep getting the no permissions error when I try to copy files to the server.

Usually the authentication prompt is in relation to the destination for your copy.

Thus, from what you're describing, you should enter your Gentoo login credentials. However, I suspect the owner/write permission are too restrictive on that specific volume. Have you checked owner user/group on the problematic volume vs. the other "problem-free" volumes? Are the read/write permissions the same?

To change the permissions without resorting to Terminal, highlight the folder you want to put the user file in and select Get Info (Cmd+i). At the bottom are the permissions. Make sure that where it says "everyone" that it also says "Read & Write." You may have to click the little gold lock at the bottom of the Get Info pane to adjust this. Once you do this, you will be able to copy your folder over.

I met the similar issue and the root cause was the SELINUX enable. You can disable the SELINUX and try.


Can't Download Mavericks via App Store nor Upgrade from OS X 10.8.5 -- Command Line Installs Not Supported App Store mentions the following message when I attempt to download/install OS X Mavericks (10.9):

"Command line installs of OS X are not supported on systems older than 10.9."

So it says I need 10.9 in order to upgrade to 10.9?

Mac mini (Late-2012)
OS X 10.8.5 (12F45)
iTunes 11.1.2 or above (so far)
using App Store 1.2.2 (129.16)

Q: How can I download the OS X Mavericks 10.9 installer?

(Note: I'm running the Mac mini over VNC ("Screen Sharing") with no monitor).

Update 1

I downloaded the Mavericks Installer using a friend's laptop.
Visiting the Apple Store seems to be the default support path around this bug: "you can visit any Apple Retail Store to get help with downloading" (http://www.apple.com/osx/how-to-upgrade/)

Update 2

Update 3

After thinking perhaps I may have an environment variable set,
I found the following post, and sure enough,
my /etc/launchd.conf file had the following line:

setenv COMMAND_LINE_INSTALL 1

which I removed/commented out with a # in front.

#setenv COMMAND_LINE_INSTALL 1

I'm now running Mavericks 10.9.1 ! :) -- the upgrade went wonderfully.

I had added that line several months ago in order to install something, and had forgotten about it. (Hope this fix helps someone)

Lesson Learned:

Track temporary configuration changes (or restore to the original when you're done)

This isn't the ideal path, but you could always boot to the Recovery HD and re-install the OS to an external USB drive. Your Mac might re-download Mavericks directly but more likely would re-download the version that created the Recovery HD.

At that point, you would leave your internal drive untouched and install a clean system on the external drive.

From there, you would be able to boot off that external drive that doesn't have the new iTunes and download Mavericks. Once you had the installer, you could run it against either the internal drive or the external drive and migrate data over if you chose to upgrade the external to Mavericks first.

in case this is still an issue

https://discussions.apple.com/message/23816172#23816172


Is it true that iPhone 4S has battery issues? I'm considering getting a new iPod and a new mobile phone. iPhone 4S sounds like a really attractive option, but it looks that iPhone 4S has serious battery issues. Some people are charging their iPhone 4S twice a day, according to articles on the web.

Are those issues are real? I'm a heavy iPod user and if those issues are real, then I don't think that I'm going to get the 4S.

I charge my iPhone 4S overnight each night, but I could probably get through multiple days if I was careful.

Currently, I'm not careful about battery life. I listen to podcasts on the train to work, make calls, surf the Internet on 3G and WiFi, and listen to streaming radio on WiFi pretty much all day at work. With all that, I get ~16 hours of battery life, which is much better than either my old 4th gen iPod touch or my Palm Prē.

Batteries can vary by model; the people who wrote the articles you mention probably just got crappy batteries. They should take their iPhones in to an Apple Store and Apple'll probably replace them, as the batteries are clearly defective.

If you use the phone: calls, texts, apps, photos, etc., your battery life will last half a day and you will have to recharge it twice a day. Don't be fooled by the comments above. This will most likely not be the case for you! With that being said, the battery life issue should not be a reason to not purchase the phone! It is incredible and you will be happy with it regardless!


MacBookAir 11" - WiFi not connecting in Europe I just recently bought my MacBook Air 11" this summer and it is currently running on OS X Mountain Lion. I purchased it in the United States and had very minimal problems with it. I bought it for the purpose of using it for my work in France for the next 8 months. I just arrived this week and have been unable to connect to any WiFi networks whatsoever. I have not set up a personal connection at my apartment but it continues not to work when I bring my laptop to the school I work which has a very strong unsecured WiFi connection.

Is there something I'm missing here? I have never had WiFi problems before but upon moving to France, my US-bought MacBook Air just doesn't want to connect. I keep receiving "A connection timeout occured". I want to believe it's just the signal but I see no reason why it shouldn't connect to a strong signal-- and I would hate to assume that's the case only to set up my own WiFi at home and find it still doesn't work weeks later. The location is set to Automatic at the moment.

Any step-by-step qdvice would help. I am extremely new to Apple products and not great with the lingo or navigation quite yet so thorough directions of how to approach the diqgnostic would be very helpful. Thank you!

Given you are using 2.4 GHz Wifi, there are 2 channels (namely 12 and 13) available in Europe, that are not allowed in the US and are therefore not supported by US-bought WIFI adapters. See Wi-Fi Channel availability

As far as I know Apple uses different Wifi-modules for european and US-models, so there's little hope to fix that in software.

Ask a fellow student to look up on which channel he is connected. If it's 12 or 13 you won't be able to connect.

Think about this : US is using an old Internet system dated 1990 with a speed of 16 MBPS this speed is only for corporation not individual... while France is using an up to date internet system 2013 with a speed of at least 1Gigabyte per second. I have the same problem I purchased a brand new HP laptop and I took it to Paris, my second residence,  i could not get a connection  that is when I learned what is going on...


Set maximum fan speed Is it possible to set the maximum computer fan speed on the latest Macs, ideally with Terminal? I understand this is a terrible idea as it will likely lead to hardware overheating and failing, but I'm curious if that level of control is still available. From what I can tell, popular options like smcFanControl only set the minimum temperature.

Just found one software option - https://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-control - this can set a constant fan speed. I tested and was able to set a fan speed below the auto level. Still would be nice to find a Terminal command.


Trying to get things clear with iPod touch 3rd Gen 8GB MC model Well, I'm kind of new to this support communities as this is my first time to make a discussion here.

So, as most of all iDevice users knew that a late-2009 iPod touch 2nd gen 8GB MC model was referred by stores as the 3rd Gen 8GB.

After all these years, I've finally had time to solve the issue a few weeks ago. I bought the unit on April 2010 which was claimed by a guy from the authorised reseller at my location as the newest 3rd Gen iPod touch. At that time, I trusted this guy (salesman) and start to use the unit throughout the years and finally I got stuck on iOS 4.2.1.

Later on, I thought that probably Apple hadn't release the 4.3 version for the iPod touch 3rd Gen, so I waited dumbly until the release of iOS 5.1.1. Recently, I brought my unit back to the same store, trying to find out why did the store misleaded me.

Another guy from the store explained to me that before June 2010, they didn't know from Apple that iPod touch 8GB MC was different from its siblings with greater capacity. They only knew it officially from Apple in June 2010. He also stated that the official basis from Apple for the store to compare between iPod touch 3rd Gen 8GB and the 2nd Gen was the MC and MB numbers, not the A12XX and A13XX (in apple support webpage).

So I want to ask anybody who knows the real thing behind these statements.

Did Apple made the statement that the MC model would be different with the 32 & 64 GB models since the launching in late 2009 (I really mean at that time in September 2009 until the June 2010)?

If there was another time when they officially announced that the MC model would be different, please give me the date (this is an important fact to me).

Is the official comparison basis from Apple to distinguish between iPod touch generation  is true (The MC and MB numbers), or did that guy lied to me again ?

If there was another official way such as in http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1353, should all Apple authorized reseller use this page as their basis ?

When did this page released with the inclusion of the late 2009 iPod touch lineup ?
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1353#iPod_touch_late2009

I really need any truth that would help me to understand things. Thanks in advance (I really thank everyone for answering my questions truthfully :) )

Since I was once working as salesman in an Authorized Reseller in Australia, let me enlighten the essential parts :

Apple had implicitly mentioned in the press release that the MC model would not have the same spec as its sibling, which means the MC model is not the same with the 3rd Gen model.

So what is a MC model ?
MC model is a 2nd Gen iPod with a modified bootrom so it was meant to be UN-jailbreakable. But as you see, maniacs out there were able to jailbreak it too (this really bugs me). You may notice that the MC and MB models are quite different but they were the same since both of them were A1288 iPods.

Since the time when Apple made the press release, many stores advertise the MC model as the 3rd Gen. This is absolutely wrong ! Although my store didn't notice about the differences until iOS 4 was released, we took the liberty of advertising it as The New iPod Touch 2G 8GB in February 2010. Actually, Apple ever advertised in fine text that iPod touch 8GB won't support all features on iOS 4 in March 2010. The salesman at your store should've told you this before.

About the method, well, beats me. Most stores have their own way to distinguish such as the part number (MCXXXX and MBXXXX), however since part numbers are different in every sales region, Apple used a more common way which is the model number as shown in http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1353#iPod_touch_late2009. However, you won't be able to check the model number unless you buy the iPod, opened the case, and use a magnifier on its backpanel. A lot of online websites made profit from this thing, since people bought the product and they complained 6-12 months later (assuming the purchase was done in late 2009 - early 2010), and they were terribly dissapointed.

If you carefully notice that the link in the webpage for the 4th Gen iPods was HT1353#iPod_4G while for the 3rd Gen iPods was HT1353#iPod_touch_late2009. See Apple designated the iPod touch which was released in 09/2009 (at the same time with the press release) only in 32GB & 64GB capacity. So what is the designation for the 8GB ones ?

They were just iPod Touch 2G 8GB - MC model, any other name for this iPod would be considered unlikely to be accurate.

The store where I worked once also experienced the same problem back in May 2011 where users who bought the product before our new advertising was launched. Well, we apologized because it was my store's mistake and told the customers why wouldn't they bring the problem back to us earlier ?. Well, that's not the important thing (as long as the customers were happy, it was enough for me). The customers demand the true iPod touch 3G 8GB in exchange for their old The New iPod Touch 2G 8GB. But there was no such thing called iPod Touch 3G 8GB, so we made a deal with them. We let them keep their iPods and offered them the new iPod 4G 8GB for only A$49 (about 20% of normal price at that time). since there wasn't a 3G 8GB. Fortunately, there were only 3 customers at the time and we revoke one of them because the iPod unit wasn't functional. They accepted the deal and we sold 2 iPod Touch 4G 8GB for A$98.

Now since you would likely to demand compensation from your local Authorised reseller, tell them how we settle things here in Australia. Your local store might've misled you when buying your product, so you have the right to demand compensation even it's been 2,5 years since the released of the iPod touch 3G. I think that refund might be an overdo since it's been quite some time, so I suggest you demand for 80% discount for purchasing the new iPod touch too :).

1). Things should be as clear as quoted by L0n3Sheep :

"The 8GB iPod touch is now available for just $199, along with new models which deliver twice the capacity for the same price, with the iPod touch 32GB model for $299 and 64GB model for $399" means that the new model were intended for 32 & 64 GB only (they were really new since the 2nd generation 16&32GB were improved with twice the capacity). Also in the sentence "The 32GB and 64GB models also include up to 50 percent faster performance and support for even better graphics with OpenGL ES 2.0" also indicates that the 8GB model was intended to be different from the 32&64 GB models.

I believed that many stores have no idea in what way a 8GB model would be different "under the hood", but they should've figured out the "difference in performance" as mentioned earlier.

2). Yes, when I called 1-800-APL-CARE, that's what apple said. If other Authorized stores used part number, they should take full responsibility for misleading a customer.

Only buy Apple product directly from an authorized reseller to be assured.

3). Only apple that would be able to answer that question. But i guessed it should've been there quite a long time. For your information, iPod 4G were included there almost instantly after the release.

My personal advice : demand a compensation from the store since it has misled you, a free or huge discount (75%-95%) should be fair enough.


Outlook 2011 reports incorrect font size My copy of Outlook 2011 is behaving oddly with respect to font sizes.

When I compose an email and set the text to be, for example, 12pt, the text I get when I type within the email composition window is actually 9pt. Moreover, when I send the email to myself and read it on a Windows computer the email is, again, 9pt.

Outlook 2011 therefore seems to be inacurately reporting/setting the font size. Does anyone know why it does this or have a solution?

Edit with some more information about my specific circumstances:

Outlook is set to default at 12pt Calibri, and this is what I am trying to compose in (i.e. its set to this size before I start typing).

The same issue affects all the other fonts in Outlook, but does not affect MS Word.

Outlook and Safari are both up to date.

I am running Mountain Lion on a Retina Macbook Pro 15".

As far as the difference in versions of outlook, MS actually has an official statement about that:
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2783553

Summary
Email messages that are sent from Microsoft Outlook for Mac 2011 to
other operating systems may have with a different font size than the
original email message font size. For example, when text that has
Calibri font size 14 is sent from Outlook for Mac 2011 to Microsoft
Outlook or Outlook Web App, the text may be displayed as a font size
other than 14 when the message is received on the other operating
system.
More information
This is caused by the pixel-to-point or
point-to-pixel conversion that happens between the Mac and Windows
operating systems.

In other words they're using points in OSX and pixels in Windows.

You may check your ZOOM settings on the tool bar when the email editor is opened - should be set to 100% to display properly the corresponding font size.


Mac becomes slow and unresponsive when opening complex pdf So I a trying to open some lecture slides from my university to study however when I try to open certain PDF files the system becomes extremely slow and unresponsive.

Details of the PDF (Blurred out the names):

My macbook is a Macbook Air Mid-2011 with i7 and 4GB RAM running Yosemite OS X 10.10 . While slow and unresponsive, I opened Activity Monitor. After just a few minutes the amount of virtual memory increased from 10Gb to 24GB and Safari (what I opened the PDF with) was listed as using 7.8GB of RAM. Further the graph of Memory Pressure as shown in activity monitor had moments of being orange and red before the whole system becomes totally unresponsive.

I have tried restarting the laptop, closing other applications, and downloading and opening in preview. None of which helped.

This file isn't particularly large so i was wondering what would cause it to do this? The file does however contain numerous pictures and equations, which is what I believe to be the cause.Any ideas how to comfortable open this PDF?

Edit:
Here is the usage from Preview after opening for about 1 minute:

I ran into some issues like this with a PDF which contained some embedded vector images… the images were plots generated by Mathematica which had been exported as PDF files. The images were composed of a few thousand data points. As Preview attempted to plot these (thousands of) vectors, it would lock up (just as you describe).

Exporting the images from Mathematica as a PNG (raster format) solved the problem instantly. I'm not very familiar with the behavior of PowerPoint with vector images (if I recall correctly, the two do not mix…). Could you try rasterizing some of the more complex images prior to placing them in the document?

Note: as in your case, the PDF file didn't seem particularly large (the file size of the PDF image compared to the PNG image was very comparable), but the amount of processing power required to render the PDF brought the system to a crawl every time I scrolled to the point in the document where the complex plot was located.

This is not an answer but perhaps a hint.  I am (since Yosemite) having this problem with all the Office for Mac programs.  If I "open recent" no problem. If I open from Finder instead of the application, no problem.  But if I open Word or Excel or Powerpoint and then go to find a file, the program becomes unresponsive and I have to force quit.


No allow button in security and privacy preferences When trying to install VMWare in MacOS Catalina, under security and privacy system preferences and then general, I do not see a way to allow what it needs to work properly. Even when I unlock the system preferences, it does not give me an option to allow in order to complete the setup. I also recently tried installing parallels desktop, which requires the same procedure in system preferences, and I was not able to get that working properly either because the allow button is not there.
Anyone know why this might be?
Thanks so much for the help!

That's because it's not meeting the guidelines for the possible install sources.
Now, the remainder of this answer is going to assume you're a legitimate user of the box with Admin permissions (or access to an admin account on the box):
Easiest fix: when you launch the installer, hold down the option key. That should offer you a prompt to override the security restrictions.
More permanent, global fix: Launch your terminal, and enter the following:
sudo spctl --master-disable
This will provide you henceforth the ability to install untrusted app (read: not notarized by Apple) from any source.
Running
sudo spctl --master-enable

will reverse the process.

The single "Allow" button on the "General" tab is for unsigned software. VMware is signed so you do not need to "Allow" it there.
Under Catalina, there is a list of privileges that can be granted under the "Privacy" tab, and for VMware you need to enable "Full Disk Access" there.
Click on Privacy and then "Full Disk Access" on the left, unlock the panel, and check VMware in the list on the right.


Macbook pro does not connect wifi I have mac book pro late 2013 with os x 10.9.2. When i clicked on the wifi network i want to connect, it doesn't connect. It doesn't even give any response. There is only an animation in wifi: on option in upper right side with loading circle and becomes  wifi: looking for networks . And it goes back to normal repeatedly

I tried to fix it by looking into settings, i even re-installed os x but it still doesn't connect. The network i want to connect is fine, there are 2 more devices connected to that network and they work just fine. How can i fix this problem?

before we go on fixing lets find out it is working at all.

In Terminal type (to turn it on)

networksetup -setairportpower en0 on

Next type (to scan)

/System/Library/PrivateFrameworks/Apple80211.framework/Versions/A/Resources/airport scan

Finally type (to connect)

networksetup -setairportnetwork en0 WIFI_SSID_I_WANT_TO_JOIN WIFI_PASSWORD

Also:

While holding the alt key click on the wifi icon

In the pop up window select Open Wireless Diagnostics...follow the instructions.

It dying in a session with wifi connection 1 min on my computer. Every time the computer wanted a password again. I changed the password from the modem interface. I entered a new password. This problem has been solved. Maybe you are living. I wanted to note here.


Is it hard to transfer contacts from one iPhone to another iPhone? I just bought a new iPhone 6s, and want to move all the contacts from the old one to the new one. Can iTunes or iCloud help me do this, or are there any other ways?

Yes either iCloud or iTunes can do this.

The overview is that you take a backup from the old iPhone and restore during setup on the new iPhone.

Apple has a support page for this: Transfer content from your previous iOS device to your new iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch

When my daughter filled her iPhone4 (yes they still exist!) with photos so that she was unable to update the operating system, I connected the phone to my computer and ignored the request to fire up iTunes and simply looked at the phone contacts as if it were just any old external drive. I copied a chunk of photos folders without changing their coded names, deleted them on the phone, disconnected iPhone, updated the OS, then reconnected computer to put back most of the folders in the same place without further interference. She needed a clear out anyhow.
Works fine.


Finder does not show content of some folders I'm running Lion on Macbook2,1 and after I've upgraded from Leopard, I've noticed that some folders including Pictures are shown empty in Finder. Size of folder says otherwise and in Terminal I can see all my files and folders.

Any Idea what's going on?

Terminal:

Iffat:Pictures mac$ cd Photo\ Booth\ Archive/
Iffat:Photo Booth Archive mac$ ls -l
total 0
drwxr-xr-x   94 mac  staff  3196 Nov 22 15:26 Archive up to 91.08.13
drwxr-xr-x    3 mac  staff   102 Nov 22 15:26 Family
drwxr-xr-x   31 mac  staff  1054 Nov  2  2011 First Soheil Setup
drwxr-xr-x   11 mac  staff   374 Nov  2  2011 Mita
drwxr-xr-x    3 mac  staff   102 Nov 22 15:26 Tidy

In Finder's Get Info, there isn't much to tell, everything is normal, except for Kind: Folder which is missing.

Size: 338683879 bytes (339.3 MB on disk) for 278 items

Can't say I've ever seen that sort of behaviour before, I'm not really sure what might have caused it, but I've got two things to test.

First off, it's possible that the folders got hidden for some reason. Try running

chflags -R nohidden ~/Pictures/Photo\ Booth\ Archive/*

If that doesn't work, see if you can access the folders directly in the Finder by focusing the Finder, pressing ⌘ cmd + ⇧ shift + G and entering the full path of one of the folders into the "Go to the folder:" dialog. If Finder can get there, then there's likely some setting hiding them from view; if not, then there's some reason Finder can't properly access the actual directories on disk.

I have the same problem - in finder folders that had files in them earlier show as empty later on. I find that a reboot always corrects the finder views, until something causes them to disappear again several hours or even days later.
If I force quit finder and relaunch then finder never relaunches so the reboot is the only option.


How to change Macbook Pro (late 2013) screen and top cover I had an crash accident with my MBPro (late 2013). MB fall down and crashed to its top left  corner. There is a damage to unibody (its not so big problem for me, I can live with it) but there is bigger problem because probably damage of Retina display - when I look at a screen with dark background I can see very tinny and randomly distributed shiny white pixels. It is not much visible but I think it might be some bigger problem with display.

I would like to change the whole top cover. Is it possible to buy this component? Where? Does anybody have some experience with this replacement?

I have exactly the same problem with my MacBook (as I bought it in such a condition). I bought the screen from eBay. Its quite easy to fix if you follow the instructions on iFixit. You should consider buying only display, not the whole top assembly, as the prices really different. If your top cover is OK, you don't need to buy it, its possible just to change LCD matrix.

Apologies, I misread your question as NOT wanting to replace the whole top, only the screen (I probably had this on my mind).

  As mentioned you have the iFixit guide for whole display assembly replacement

The also sell the part here.

Replacing only the screen is much harder than to the whole display assembly. Have a look at this video showing the work involved replacing a screen instead of whole assembly.

  Louis Rossmann - Macbook Pro Retina screen repair - LCD ONLY for A1502 models

I have newfound respect for these repairs, what an epic saga! I can only imagine the power one feels after repairing a device like this :-)

Price of cheapest repair I could find was about 4 times that of a display, the assembly costs about 2 times the display.

You can also have a look on AliExpress for instance.


What is the keyboard shortcut for "Open With" in Finder? How can I open a file with an application, other than the default, using a keyboard shortcut? I don’t want to change the default application for the filetype.

E.g. sometimes I want to open a .html file using an editor instead of a browser.

The best solution for me:

Select file you want to open
Press ⇧+⌘+/ (opens up the mighty Help search)
Then start to type a name of app you want to open
Use arrow keys to select right menu item
Press Enter
Done!

For example I want to open HTML-file with Sublime Text instead of Chrome.
I navigate to this file, press shortcut, type in "su", press down-arrow and press enter!

Right click on the file > press h key > use arrow keys to navigate


How do I turn off MacBook display when I have an external display? I went through a similar question, but the answer was informing how to hide the monitor, but not how to disable it.
I do not want any new windows to creep into the laptop display when the external display is connected. I could not find any in the Display Settings (under System Preferences).
I don't want to close the lid because I think it impacts the air flow of the MacBook Pro.
I don't want to close the lid because the sound quality is reduced.

Reducing heat by adjusting the lid

Having the lid closed or open does not impact the airflow of your MacBook Pro (MBP). Ambient air is never in short supply and the "exhaust" (where the hot air picked up by the blade fan(s) are expelled) is located at the back of the unit (the black stripe on the newer models and the grey stripe on the first generation machines).

Some claim that keeping the lid open allows the chassis to cool down, but these claims have never had any real data behind them (simply anecdotal evidence and unsubstantiated rumour). Personally, I have a 2006 MBP that was eventually relegated to being a desktop. I ran the system for well over a year with the clamshell open, and then closed, and saw no different in CPU/CPU temps (nor any variability in the other heat sensors) as a result. Moreover, the newer models have far more efficient blade fans and would suffer even less from the effects of heat (additionally, the new Intel chipsets run cooler than their predecessors). You can conduct your own testing of course. I had replaced the heat sink, re-applied a sane amount of Arctic Silver thermal paste, and used Lobotomo Fan Control daemon to monitor my system's temperature.

Disabling the internal display, properly

There are two ways to connect a secondary display to your notebook without enabling the default screen (note that this does not mean dimming it, but rather turning it off).

The first is to connect the display with the lid closed when the machine is powered down. Once the external display is connected, turn the machine on—it will detect the secondary display while leaving the internal one turned off. This will alleviate the issues you have with "dragging things off the screen" as the system will constrain your desktop to the one, active monitor.
The second is to connect the secondary display when your system is awake and active, and the clamshell open. Make sure the notebook is plugged in. Once you connect the secondary monitor, the system will recognize it. Once it does, close the lid on your notebook. The device will be put to sleep. Once that happens, move your mouse, or hit a key on your keyboard to wake it. Once it wakens, it will enable the secondary display, but not the internal one.

Additionally, you may set the attribute to leave the system in the sleep state even if the clamshell is opened. You can do this using pmset, a local utility found on OS X that actually handles all your power settings. You can accomplish this with the following command:

sudo pmset -a lidwake 0

The -a, -b, -c, -u flags determine whether the settings apply to battery ( -b ), charger (wall power) ( -c ), UPS ( -u ) or all ( -a ).

To reverse the command, set the 0 to a 1. These settings are persistent, in that, they do not need to be re-applied every time the machine's power is cycled and are saved to the file: /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/com.apple.PowerManagement.plist

for mac users trying to use hdmi to tv and having troubles turning off your screen on laptop and leaving screen on tv on, TURN THE BRIGHTNESS RIGHT OFF!!!! the laptop screen will go black but tv screen stays the same


How to move an opened file to trash? It's possible to move files to trash via Finder with ⌘⌫. But if i have an opened file (e.g. pdf or txt), is there any way to directly move it to trash without first closing it and finding it in Finder? Any shortcut?

The shortest way: Right-click the file icon in the title bar of the document window. It will display a drop-down menu of the file's location path. When you choose the folder icon that is directly under the file icon, a Finder window will open with the file already selected (highlighted), and you can directly press ⌘⌫ to trash it.

It depends on the app, which has to implement this, not a general OS X keystroke.

In Preview: ⌘⌫

TextEdit seems to have nothing.


How to analyze/resolve Gmail timeouts in Apple Mail? I am using Google Apps/Gmail with Apple Mail on OS X Mavericks. For some reason, sending email is extremely slow (minutes to hours) and I constantly get this message:

  The server returned the error: The connection to the server “imap.gmail.com” on port 993 timed out.

There are often (but not always) little error triangles on the inboxes.

Does anyone know why this happens and what I can do to solve the issue?

Close Apple Mail and flush your DNS cache - imap.gmail.com is actually a collection of servers and occasionally your DNS will send you a bad one.

In El Capitan the command is sudo dscacheutil -flushcache

It's different for earlier versions.

Even the connection logging in Mail didn't show that DNS was the problem, only that it was a timeout in my case. Unfortunately this is only one possibility.

A way to check is by running the following in Terminal:

$ telnet imap.gmail.com 993
Trying 64.233.187.109...
Connected to gmail-imap.l.google.com.
Escape character is '^]'.

test
FConnection closed by foreign host.

(I typed test there, and the server doesn't understand that so I get disconnected. This proves that the connection between the computer and GMail is fine)

Try pointing at imap.googlemail.com instead of imap.gmail.com.

This seems to help, but doesn't entirely resolve the issue.

Here's a screenshot showing how to change the 'Incoming Mail Server' setting in the Mail.app preference pane.

-Greg


How to get the Column Browser in iTunes 11 on the left side? In iTunes 10, I had the Column Browser (the list of Artists/Albums) going down the left side of the main iTunes window.  With the install of iTunes 11, it is back to the top.

I tried going View>Column Browser>.... and the option is not there, and its not in the preferences either. Anyone see a way to get it back on the left side?

You cannot bring back the left-side column browser. It is not possible in iTunes 11. The closest approximation I have found is to go to "Artists" view and enable the Sidebar (under the View menu). You can also downgrade to iTunes 10, depending on your system but that can present its own problems.

If you switch to the Songs menu at the top and hit command-b you will bring up the column browser. If you want the old look, turn the sidebar on again as well.


External HDD can be seen in Disk Utility but not in Finder I've been using my external HDD a lot of times before on my Macbook Pro 13" OS X version 10.9.5, but it doesn't seem to appear in my Finder anymore. It can be seen in Disk Utility, though. Can anyone help?

I've already checked the Finder > Preferences > ... And, I've already run Repair Disk and clicked on Mount, to no avail. I don't want to reformat the disk because it has years of files and pictures.

This is the info on my external HDD:

Name :  HW Drive
Type :  Partition

Disk Identifier :   disk1s1
Mount Point :   Not mounted
File System :   Windows NT Filesystem (Tuxera NTFS)
Connection Bus :    USB
Device Tree :   IODeviceTree:/PCI0@0/EHC2@1A,7
Writable :  Yes
Capacity :  320.07 GB (320,071,884,800 Bytes)
Owners Enabled :    No
Can Turn Owners Off :   No
Can Be Formatted :  Yes
Bootable :  No
Supports Journaling :   No
Journaled :     No
Disk Number :   1
Partition Number :  1

This fixed mine:

In Finder:
 Finder>Preferences>Sidebar>DEVICES>
Then I unchecked and re-checked (deselected and then reselected) "Hard Disks" and they came back. (even though they were external) Basically try unchecking and checking them all.

I'm also now running disk checks.

Okay, under Finder>Preferences>Sidebar>DEVICES>"Whatever the name of your Mac may be" Click that box to show in finder. Now click on it from Finder, again it'll be under devices and it'll be whatever you named your Mac(Mine is, "Kevin's Macbook Pro". Now you should see your External Drive like usual!


Windows Steam not working properly using WineBottler on macOS v10.13.6 (17G3025) I've just installed the latest WineBottler v2.0 from https://winebottler.kronenberg.org/downloads.

I clicked on the supplied Steam install button, and ended up with a new application in my application folder - I called it Steam-winebottler.app because I've already got the standard Mac Steam.app.

Steam-winebottler.app launched fine, did various updates, and eventually gave me what looks like a log-in window without any of the usual text.

What I mean is I can see the Steam logo, the Valve logo, and what looks like boxes for password and username entry, but not text saying "Password" or "User name" or "Click to continue" or anything like that.

Here's a screenshot:

https://appdb.winehq.org/objectManager.php?sClass=version&iId=19444

mentions a problem: Steam client window(s) do(es)n't render any text.

which says "Ensure Steam client is launched as follows...

wine Steam.exe -no-dwrite"

It looks like that's the problem I've got, but I can't see a way to apply the fix when using the WineBottler approach.

I'd appreciate any clues.

Thank you.

JavaScript is Enabled? I know this is the way a website can look if JavaScript is turned off.


how do you backup iphone when some of the apps have the old style appleid? i have an iphone 4s.  some of my apps where installed with my original apple id from years ago. at some point apple required/changed everyone to use email as their apple id.  Now when i try and back up my phone it asks for password, but it never succeeds because of the mismatched appleids. i cannot complete a backup in itunes.

anyone elese run into this issue?

Have you tried HT201272 app store download ID incorrect (does not match settings ID)? (In short: Logout on your iPhone then re-sync via cable with iTunes)

I ran into this issue before and the way I got it fixed was by resetting the password to the apple id.


How can I query the hardware UUID of a Mac programmatically from a command line? The hardware universally unique identifier (UUID) can often be used by developers to associate information unique to a Mac. This identifier will usually persist through OS upgrades or reinstalls, as well as across multiple OSes in multi-boot installations. I would like to be able to retrieve the UUID via a command line in macOS in order to use with a script.

The ioreg command can be used for this task.

ioreg -d2 -c IOPlatformExpertDevice | awk -F\" '/IOPlatformUUID/{print $(NF-1)}'

Similarly, you can get the same information in a Property List (plist/xml) format by including the -a option which is useful for implementations that work with XML better. One command line example would be to use xmllint --xpath

ioreg -ad2 -c IOPlatformExpertDevice |
  xmllint --xpath '//key[.="IOPlatformUUID"]/following-sibling::*[1]/text()' -

I often see the system_profiler command used for this task, however, I have found the ioreg method to be slightly faster if performance is a concern.

time system_profiler SPHardwareDataType | awk '/UUID/ { print $NF }'

real    0m0.295s
user    0m0.110s
sys     0m0.074s

time ioreg -d2 -c IOPlatformExpertDevice | awk -F\" '/IOPlatformUUID/{print $(NF-1)}'

real    0m0.029s
user    0m0.005s
sys     0m0.004s

To list all UUIDs I use the following code in Terminal:

for i in $(diskutil list | grep HFS | tr -s ' ' '\t' | cut -f 7); do diskutil info $i | grep UID | tr -s ' ' '\t' | cut -f 4; done


Plugged in new iPhone - iTunes is now using a foreign language I just got a new iPhone. I plugged it into my computer (iTunes was already installed). After clicking through the registration windows, iTunes displayed the screen below to me.

Does anyone know how to get this back to English? (So far, I haven't been game to press either the white or the blue button)

I live in Australia.

A similar case to what you are experiencing can be found here:

https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3303287?start=0&tstart=0

Pretty weird stuff, but apart from restarting the computer you can try purchasing a free app (I assume through iTunes on the computer), another suggestion that I have read resolved this was to unplug the iPhone and do a reset (hold down the home and lock buttons until the apple logo appears) and then plug it back in when prompted.

Well, that looks like simplified Chinese. No idea though how you might have gotten there. Is it the first time your iTunes app behaves this way?

And I assume you are in North America... this would discard the idea that the interface is location-aware.

Maybe deinstalling and reinstalling iTunes? After having backed up your data of course... :-)


Will Time Capsule work on a college dorm's WiFi network? My daughter is headed off to college. I'd like to send her off with a Time Capsule so she can wirelessly backup her MacBook automatically.

My concern is that Time Capsule will not work properly on her dorm's WiFi network, which she clearly won't have access to from a management perspective.

I know she can connect her MacBook to Time Capsule via ethernet but that is effectively a manual backup and I know that my kids (and many others) won't do that every night.

Does anyone have any more information on this or know how this could work?

She could probably tie the time capsule into a ethernet line in her dorm (I assume there is a wired option) and then set the time capsule to be on bridge mode (where it doesn't issue a new IP adress but rather passes the one issued by the school's DHCP).

She could then use her Time Capsule (which is also a wifi router) to have her own private wifi locked down for her dorm, this is what I do in my house as Telus doesn't offer DSL modems as a standalone.

A lot of it depends on how the network is configured, but most likely it will not work.  You also might not want to do it, because the connection may or may not be encrypted, so other users on the network would be able to sniff all the files being backed up to the device.  The best bet would probably be to use something like Dropbox if there are not gigs of data to be saved.


Forgot my password to a disk image (.sparseimage) I'm in trouble right now.

I used Disk Utility to create a sparse image and I cannot remember the password, when I created the file I didn't select to remember in keychain.

Now, I try to enter the possible value but it doesn't work.
Is there any recommend way to crack the password or give some hint or some app that might be worked on this stuff.

I really need to use the data in that file.

CrowBar is somewhat out-of-date.

Probably the most comprehensive and up-to-date free password-recovery package is JohnTheRipper. Among many other formats, it can test .dmg's as well.

Note that JtR does not "break" the encryption, it just automates and speeds the process of trying thousands (or millions, or trillions) of dictionary-based and random passwords in hopes of eventually hitting the correct one that decrypts your data.

JohnTheRipper is a command-line tool and requires one to be pretty well-versed in standard shell syntax, etc.

If you don't want to compile JtR yourself, there are also free unofficial pre-compiled Mac OS X binaries available.

The latest "jumbo" and "magnum" community-contributed versions can handle .dmg files, sparse-images through OS X 10.7. If you dig around in the recent patches you can even find code to handle OS X 10.8 passwords.

"Encryption:  DriveSavers engineers have been trained and certified by leading encryption vendors, such as GuardianEdge, Utimaco Safeguard, PGP and PointSec, to safely recover file-level and disk-level encrypted data"
http://www.drivesavers.com/recovery-services/encryption/


Can I easily replace keys in the new 2016 MacBook Pro? I am using the Dvorak keyboard map on my Mac, I used to just switch keys from the keyboard to have a nice Dvorak keyboard.

Does any one know if there is a simple way to replace keys on the new Mac Book Pro released this last fall?

I just removed two keys on mine: can't believe there's no good info out there on this yet. The clips are on all four corners of the key, but you should only pry the top edge of the key as the clips on the bottom are designed to slide off toward the bottom, rather than pull straight up. I used a thin piece of plastic (the plastic-only edge of a laminated tag) to pry the top edge. A credit card would probably work but might be a little stiff for the initial pry.

Once you have the top clips off slide the key down until the bottom clips are off as well. It's a nice flat surface underneath, I had no qualms about cleaning with a damp cloth. To replace the key slide the bottom clips on in an upward direction, then press the top clips into place once the key is centered in place.

Eventually someone will start making keyboard covers like this type of thing: https://www.amazon.ca/Kuzy-AIR-11inch-Keyboard-Silicone-KEYBOARD/dp/B007XYKEMK and then you'll be able to buy one with whatever characters you want on it.

Ok, here is one already avaiable, but more than a few bucks:

http://kbcovers.com/dvorak-keyboard-cover/

Or you can pop-off and rearrange the keys:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCT-CldP_r4


Downscale a iMac 5K screenshot to 50% using commandline Open the Screenshot in Preview
Select “Adjust Size…” from the Tools menu
Change the Width and Height to 50 percent of the original
Change the Resolution to 72 pixels/inch

I wish to do this on CLI with a generic command (percent, not actual width and height).

GUI instructions with Preview

Take a look at the 'sips' command:

man sips

It is much simpler than GUI-scripting Preview and it's part of OSX. So you don't have to install anything. Example:

full_w=$(/usr/bin/sips -g pixelWidth image.jpg | /usr/bin/grep -Eo "[[:digit:]]+")
full_h=$(/usr/bin/sips -g pixelHeight image.jpg | /usr/bin/grep -Eo "[[:digit:]]+")
half_w=$(/bin/expr full_w / 2)
half_h=$(/bin/expr full_h / 2)
sips -z half_h half_w image.jpg

Here is some applescript to just what you wanted, can be coupled with automator or fed into the command line program osascript like so:

osascript << 'END'
{applescript here}
END

You can add it into your ~/.bash profile as an alias for a command as well, so all you have to do is enter the downsize alias name and it will pop up, ask you which file you want to resize, and it does the rest automatically.

alias downsize="osascript << 'END'
{applescript here}
END"

Applescript:

tell application "Preview"
    activate
    try
        open (choose file with prompt "Pick file to modify")
    on error
        display dialog "Invallid selection!"
        return 1
    end try
end tell
tell application "System Events" to tell process "Preview"
    set frontmost to true
    click (menu item 1 where its title starts with "Adjust Size") of menu of menu bar item "Tools" of menu bar 1
    tell pop up button 1 of group 1 of sheet 1 of window 1
        click
        tell menu 1
            click menu item "percent"
        end tell
    end tell
    set value of text field 1 of group 1 of sheet 1 of window 1 to "50"
    set value of text field 2 of group 1 of sheet 1 of window 1 to "50"
    set value of text field 3 of group 1 of sheet 1 of window 1 to "72"
    click button "OK" of sheet 1 of window 1
    click (menu item 1 where its title starts with "Save") of menu of menu bar item "File" of menu bar 1
end tell
ignoring application responses
    tell application "Preview" to quit
end ignoring

Hope this helps!


Yosemite won't boot in safe mode with Shift held down I'm investigating some slowness with my late '13 rMBP which I upgraded to Yosemite on Sunday. Problem is, I can't boot into safe mode by holding the Shift when restarting or powering up.

I tried everything: Pressing and holding it right after I power up, right after I hear the chime, after restarting, after total shut down. Just doesn't work.

Should I be worried?

Ok, I managed to boot to Safe mode using this:

  Access the command line by either opening Terminal remotely, or by logging into the computer using SSH.

  Use the following Terminal command:

  sudo nvram boot-args="-x"

  If you want to start in Verbose mode as well, use sudo nvram boot-args="-x -v" instead.

  After using Safe Mode, use this Terminal command to return to a normal startup:

  sudo nvram boot-args=""

Yosemite is looking more worrisome by the hour though.

It's probably due your firmware password. It prevents Mac from booting using options keys.


MS Office always slower on Mac? I have been using Microsoft Office Mac since the 2004 version. Right now, I have Office 2011 running on my trusty 2010 MacBook Pro with a Core i7 2.66 gHz CPU and 8 GB of memory.

Starting with Mac Office 2004, I noticed that it is always slower than its Windows counterparts. For instance, Word opens in a few seconds on a Windows system, but takes ~10 seconds on a Mac.

Is this generally true for everyone? Or is it just a fluke that Office has always been very slow for me on a Mac?

Since the Windows version pre-loads some of the apps at boot time, here's how to do a comparison.

Start with your Mac turned off.
Press the power button and start your timer.
Wait for the Mac to boot, then open Word. When Word is open, stop your timer.
Then repeat the test for a Windows PC, starting with the PC turned off.

Also note that Office 2004 was written for PowerPC chips, but you're running it on an Intel Mac. That slows things down because Intel Macs have to translate all that PowerPC code into Intel code. If you upgrade to Office 2008 or 2011, you'll have an Intel version of Office for Mac, and it should run faster.

Office 2004 for Mac was Microsoft's 1st attempt to get their products across to the Macintosh. To have all the features from Windows still working for the Mac (I guess) they had to work around some issues, especially since Apple was using PowerPC processors, they had to ensure compatibility with those as well, making their 1st product a rather slow one.

Now though Office 2011 for Mac and Office 2010 for Windows (which are literally the same but for different OS) starts as quickly on Mac OS X Lion as it on Windows 7.


Can I move "Pages" of apps in iOS 5? I have an iOS 5 iPad 2 and my homescreen is a bit confused. My apps are stored in pages of like content but the pages aren't logically ordered. Is there a way I can move a whole page of apps/reorder them (not just one app at a time)?

You can move it by pages in the iTunes interface but (so far as I know) not on the iPad itself.

Connect to your computer
open iTunes
select the iPad in the left column
select the apps tab along the top

At this point at the upper right is a view of the apps on the iPad.  You can drag and drop apps to move them around.  You can grab a page and drag it up and down the list to rearrange the pages.

Yes you can.

Just simply hold the icon first with your finger so that they all start to jiggle.

After that, simply take one of the app icons under your finger and move it towards either end in your screen.  Just keep it going for either direction for about 2 seconds.

After that it will move to another page.

Hope the answer helped :)

EDIT and now I noticed I didn't read the original question with enough accuracy.


Use Siri's voice as the system voice I notice that on Sierra, Siri's voice is much superior to the selection of system voices you can select in System Preferences → Accessibility → Speech. In fact, I suspect they use a different system entirely as the command say -v ? doesn't seem to list any voices which are used with Siri.

I have a key command set up to speak the select text. Is there no way I can get it to use Siri's voice to do it?

Edit: To be specific, I'm after the Siri voice: 'British (Male)'

I believe Daniel is the British Siri from the -v list

The name of Siri's original voice is called "Samantha" in OS X/macOS.

You can use it using

  say "hello" using Samantha
  with AppleScript (script editor.app).


How can I use my SanDisk Connect Wireless Flash Drive with my 12" MacBook I can access the drive on my iPhone, iPad and Android.

I am having trouble figuring out how to get it to work with my Mac

I am using Yosemite and I've done the latest firmware update on the drive

Per the SanDisk Getting Started Guide, There are two steps to get your Mac connected:

Connect to the SanDisk WiFi Network.
Browse to http://www.sandisk.com/myconnect

Directly from the Getting Started Guide:

These instructions work with PC or Mac.

Connect to Sandisk flash drive wifi signal. Go to http://www.sandisk.com/myconnect.


iTunes 11 doesn't remember to show cloud purchases On this particular computer, I use iTunes 11 only with my cloud purchases – I don't have any music stored locally. Very often (but not always), when I launch iTunes, it comes up with an empty library because the preference setting to display cloud purchases is switched to off.

I keep switching the preference back on, yet it keeps disabling itself again in the future. Is there any way to get it to stick?

Update: even weirder, sometimes when this happens the checkbox to show or hide cloud purchases (in Preferences > Store) actually disappears. Literally, I go into Preferences and it simply isn't there. If I quit and relaunch multiple times, eventually it comes back and then I can reenable it. I'll take a screenshot the next time this happens.

I had this exact problem so I telephoned Apple support and the first thing they told me to do was to check the same setting on my other devices. I discovered that my iMac had the option in preferences un-checked and it seems that this was over-riding the option on my MacBook Air.

This has worked for me, so I suggest that you check the preferences on any other devices you have and make them all the same. This is probably a bug that Apple need to sort out because if you want the option on one device but not the other then you will cause the conflict.

I fixed the issue of the disappearing button in 11.1.2, by quitting iTunes and re-opening.


Can any iOS app remotely wake a sleeping MacBook Air when the lid is closed? I want to be able to access my Macbook Air (Late-2011, Mountain Lion), when the lid is closed (in sleep mode), remotely from my iPhone 4GS.

I have tried using LogMeIn Ignition App but it does not allow you to wake the laptop from sleep.

Is there any other way/solution people are using currently?

I have an Air that I leave in clamshell mode when it is at home.

I also have an AirPort router that connects it to the internet and have it set to have the Mac wake for Wi-Fi access in the Energy Saver system preference pane.

On iOS, I use the paid app Screens VNC app and configure it to use SSH.
On the Mac, I use the free Screens Connect app in conjunction with the also free Edovia remote location brokering service in case my router gets a new IP address. I don't really need that since I have a fixed IP address, but it simplifies setup and allows me to reach my Mac when it's not at home as well.

This setup works to wake my sleeping Air when I need to access my computer from any of my iOS devices through the internet.

Change the settings on your Mac computer so that the computer keeps running when you close the lid


How can I remap keys on an external keyboard, but keep the default layout on the internal? I have an external keyboard with Windows keys. I'd like to remap the keys so the layout of the keys on the bottom-left is identical to the internal keyboard on my MacBook Pro.

This...

ctrlfnwindowsaltspacebar

...should be this:

fncontroloptioncommandspacebar

I've succeeded in remapping the windows and alt keys to option and command, respectively, via the Keyboard pane in System Preferences, but switching the control and fn keys isn't possible that way. Does anyone know of a way to do this?

Note: I don't want to globally switch control and fn; I only want to switch them on the external keyboard. KeyRemap4MacBook only seems to be able to remap the internal keyboard. When I check "Don't remap internal keyboards," the internal layout is restored, but nothing changes on the external keyboard.

KeyRemap4MacBook also supports device-specific settings:

<?xml version="1.0"?>
<root>
  <devicevendordef>
    <vendorname>KINESIS</vendorname>
    <vendorid>0x05f3</vendorid>
  </devicevendordef>
  <deviceproductdef>
    <productname>ADVANTAGE</productname>
    <productid>0x0007</productid>
  </deviceproductdef>
  <item>
    <name>modifierkeys</name>
    <identifier>modifierkeys</identifier>
    <device_only>DeviceVendor::KINESIS, DeviceProduct::ADVANTAGE</device_only>
    <autogen>__KeyToKey__ KeyCode::CONTROL_L, KeyCode::FN</autogen>
    <autogen>__KeyToKey__ KeyCode::FN, KeyCode::CONTROL_L</autogen>
    <autogen>__KeyToKey__ KeyCode::COMMAND_L, KeyCode::OPTION_L</autogen>
    <autogen>__KeyToKey__ KeyCode::OPTION_L, KeyCode::COMMAND_L</autogen>
  </item>
</root>

You can see the vendor and product IDs from EventViewer.app. If it can't remap any keys on the external keyboard, try uninstalling other keyboard or HID drivers.

See the source for the key code values and predefined settings.

You can indeed use System Preferences as Marcin indicated.
If you want more fine grained control KeyRemap is for older macOSs up to 10.8. After that the same author has created Karabiner. See his website.


How do I create a SSB for Outlook web mail using Fluid? Has anyone successfully created a fluid app for outlook web mail (aka live mail)?  I've tried but either the site opens in my web browser or (after white listing variations of the site url) I get an error message stating that I need to use internet explorer or an updated version of safari.  The site opens fine in my firefox web browser (my default browser) so I don't think it's a browser problem.

When you create a Single Site Browser (SSB) with Fluid, by default it only allows you to access specific URLs within it. The allowed URLs are by default (in this example): *outlook.com*.

What you need to do is open the SSB, enter it's preferences, choose the 'Whitelist' section, and add *live.com* to the whitelist. This should allow you to access both the login page, and actual Live Mail interface without issue.

If pages continue to open in your browser, take the URL and add it's domain to the whitelist.

I also needed to add office.com to my whitelist if people are still having problems... Or you can just flip it to "allow browsing to any URL".


Is there an xkeymacs equivalent in Mac? In PC, the utility of xkeymacs.exe enables one to use emacs key in every case. Does Mac have the similar utility? For example, is there a utility that I can use key 'C-x C-s' to send the key 'Command-S'?

You could configure some of them in ~/Library/Keybindings/DefaultKeyBinding.dict. See hcs.harvard.edu/~jrus/Site/cocoa-text.html and this sample file: Emacs Opt Bindings.dict.

Another option would be to use KeyRemap4MacBook. It supports over 1000 preconfigured keybindings, including an "Emacs Mode" section.

I don't know xkeymap, but it sounds like you want to do keyboard mapping. Mac OS is built on BSD, hence xmodmap should work...


How to connect an iPad Air to a Panasonic TV? Is there a way to stream TV from my iPad to my Panasonic TV?

I am a relatively new iPad user with little expertise.

Although the OP's question is a bit light on detail, (what model of Panasonic TV?) this is general information on how to stream video from an iOS device, including the iPad Air, to a television equipped with an HDMI input.
Required is a Wireless Network that one has access to.  Also, the TV must have an Airplay capable device attached via HDMI that is capable of receiving streaming video from the iOS device.  For example a second generation Apple TV or newer.
Connect to the Apple TV using AirPlay.
According to Apple:

AirPlay is compatible with the second-generation Apple TV or later. AirPlay Mirroring is available with iPhone 4s or later, iPad Pro, iPad Air or later, iPad 2 or later, iPad mini or later, and iPod touch (5th generation or later).

Use AirPlay to wirelessly stream content from your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch
With AirPlay, you can stream music, photos, and videos to your Apple TV, or stream music to your AirPort Express or AirPlay-enabled speakers. And with AirPlay Mirroring, you can display your iOS screen on your Apple TV.
Get started
To use AirPlay, you need one of these devices:

iPhone 4 or later. iPhone 4s or later for AirPlay Mirroring.
iPad, iPad mini. iPad 2 or later for AirPlay Mirroring.
iPod touch (4th generation or later). iPod touch (5th generation or later) for AirPlay Mirroring.

You can stream content to these devices:

For photos and videos: Apple TV (2nd generation or later).
For music: Apple TV, AirPort Express, or AirPlay-enabled speakers.

If you want to stream iTunes Store content, you also need an Internet connection.
Use AirPlay

Connect your iOS device and your AirPlay device to the same Wi-Fi network.
On your iOS device, swipe up from the bottom of your screen to open Control Center.
Tap AirPlay.
Tap the name of the device you want to stream content to. You'll see a picture of a TV screen or speaker next to each device, so you know what type of content you can stream. On iPad, you might need to scroll to see all of the available devices.

When you choose an AirPlay device, audio or video from your iOS device will play on your AirPlay-enabled speakers or on the TV that's connected to your Apple TV.
If you turn on Mirroring, you'll see your entire iOS screen on the TV that's connected to your Apple TV. Your TV will use the orientation and aspect ratio of your device. If you want the image from your device to fill your TV screen, you might need to to adjust your TV's aspect ratio or zoom settings.

There is a way to display your videos and images on your Panasonic TV without Apple TV or HDMI cable. Download Sunshine app in your ipad and if both devices are connected with the same WIFI network it will work. It's very straightforward to use... you play the video from the app and in the top right corner there is a bottom and there you can select your TV
Link to apple store


Is it possible to copy paste between Mac OS and its virtual machine? I am running Mac OS X Lion 10.7.3, and I have installed VMware to run virtual machines: Windows 7 and Ubuntu 11.10.

I have also installed VM Tools.

I would like to know if it is possible allow copy paste among the three systems? It seems that, by default (just by mouse) it is not permitted.

Edit1: I am using VMware Fusion 4.1.2, and the Settings for both Windows and Ubuntu is as follows:

Edit2: I just realize that the copy paste (both two directions) between Mac and Windows work by default. But the copy paste between Mac and Ubuntu or Ubuntu and Windows does not work...

By the way, I just want to copy texts...

Edit3: I just shut down the 2 virtual machines, and rebooted them, and copying and pasting texts among them works fine... It is really odd... So I guess I had done something on my Ubuntu, which disabled copying and pasting, then rebooting Ubuntu reset it...

You can find a lot of documentation about copy/paste, drag and drop,... on the website of VMWare, and they stated:

  To use the copy and paste feature, VMware Tools must be installed on
  the virtual machine.

But since you've already installed those tools, I recommend you reinstall them. Just to be sure.

Also, make sure you don't stumble upon the limits of this feature:

  You cannot copy and paste or drag and drop content that exceeds the internal buffer limit of 4MB.
  Copy and paste or drag and drop of formatted text containing images might not work across different operating systems.
  Copying and pasting files from the host to an Outlook email message or compressed folder in the guest and vice versa might fail.
  Workaround: Copy files from host to the guest desktop first and then
  paste the files from the guest desktop into the Outlook email message
  or compressed folder.

when I want to copy a file greater than 4 MB from win7-8-? to OSX VM I just share a directory and use the network (LAN).. or just use a USB flash drive.. same for text..
this goes for Linux-Opensuse, etc. also


iMac display has discolored tan lines I have a 24 inch, mid-2007 iMac purchased used. I don't know the original owner and it's out of warranty.

On the display is a series of tan or yellowish horizontal lines - all an approximate inch apart, for a total of about eight or so. The spacing between is regular. They're wider (about an inch wide) at the left and right edges of the screen and taper to nothing at the middle of the screen. They are particularly noticeable on light-colored or white backgrounds, such as a Pages document, most web sites, etc.

I'm certainly open to disassembling the iMac and getting at whatever it may be (the onboard GPU?) that's causing the problem. In fact I have opened the machine for an HD replacement and fanned and cleaned, but to no result.

I also use smcFanControl to boost the fans, as I thought it may be poor cooling in the machine, but this has no effect.

Does any one have ideas or suggestions as to what is causing these discolored lines?

This looks like a backlight uniformity issue.

This is where the screen isn't being evenly lit by the CCFL bulbs behind it. Some of them are outputting differing amounts of light and cause this perceived 'discolouration'. The lighter colours really do show it.

Unfortunately, this is one of the disadvantages of a CCFL backlight system as opposed to something like LED backlighting - backlight uniformity can become an issue, especially with time.

You'd be looking at a screen replacement - outside of warranty, that's gonna cost you.

Translation by google off the content above:

The lower plastic layer diffuser matrix is yellowing with time, and the lamp loses brightness, as a result - the common yellow color images and brightness differences (strip) from the brightness is insufficient. Solution - replacement of this layer, and preferably tubes. Analyze the matrix bands are clearly visible on this layer.

нижний пластиковый слой светорассеивателя матрицы желтеет со временем, а лампы теряют яркость, как результат - общий желтый тон картинки и перепады яркости (полосы) от недостаточной яркости подсевших ламп. решение - замена этого слоя, и желательно ламп. разбирал матрицу, полосы хорошо видны на этом слое


Suppressing "The default interactive shell is now zsh" message in macOS Catalina I know Catalina uses zsh as the default login shell and interactive shell, but it is very annoying when I open iTerm.app or run command with /bin/bash, it shows verbose message like below:
$ /bin/bash
The default interactive shell is now zsh.
To update your account to use zsh, please run `chsh -s /bin/zsh`.
For more details, please visit https://support.apple.com/kb/HT208050.

The support document the message links to is
https://support.apple.com/kb/HT208050
How can I hide the verbose logging? I do not want to be reminding that the "default interactive shell is now zsh" every time I open Terminal.

I found the solution on reddit. The solution is also mentioned in the "How to use a different shell without changing the default" section of the Apple support article mentioned in the bash warning: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208050/.
Add:
export BASH_SILENCE_DEPRECATION_WARNING=1

to $HOME/.bash_profile, $HOME/.profile or $HOME/.bashrc and restart iTerm. After that, the warning message will be gone.

I found that becoming root then adding the deprication suppression in /etc/profile was more reliable. I was already using ZSH and I was getting the warning every time I opened a new console. Terribly annoying. /etc/profile now reads as follows:
# System-wide .profile for sh(1)
export BASH_SILENCE_DEPRECATION_WARNING=1

if [ -x /usr/libexec/path_helper ]; then
        eval `/usr/libexec/path_helper -s`
fi

if [ "${BASH-no}" != "no" ]; then
        [ -r /etc/bashrc ] && . /etc/bashrc
fi


How do I link slides in different keynote 6.5 presentations? I had to presentations in the earlier version of keynote that were linked with a hyperlinked object. That option isn't found in 6.5. I need the presentations separate as one of them is customized with many pictures for each show, while the other remains the same. Combining them creates a file that is too large and thus problematic.

The hyperlink disappeared when the two presentations were "upgraded" to 6.5 and now I'm kinda screwed by having to stop the show and have the whole audience watch while I switch to the other presentation. Very unprofessional.

Unfortunately, Apple removed that feature (along with many others) when they released Keynote 6.  It's unclear why, but some people attribute it to a security concern?  Not sure if they ever intend to reinstate it.

Your best bet is to downgrade back, if possible.  I think the last version that had that feature was 5.3.

Version 7.3.1 (5249) you can use Ctrl+K to link slides.


Is it possible to duplicate images in LittleSnapper? The reason is that I have some screenshots of full websites. Though for inspiration and illustration reasons I need to crop them to show different parts of that website. I know that when you crop an image in LittleSnapper it does not damage the original but I really would like to be able to see the full image AND the cropped version

So that is why I need to know if there is a way to make copies of the image. Of course there is always a long way of doing it; such as drag it to the desktop and drag it back in, or go back to the web page. But does the application have a copy and paste (images) feature

Thanks

LittleSnapper keeps it's images in special library file, so the only way to copy images is to do the long way that you described.

I'd recommend you get on the LittleSnapper discussion board over at RealMac to add your voice to the group of users who'd also like to get at their images in a more flexible way.

http://support.realmacsoftware.com/discussions/littlesnapper/

You can do it easily by using Windows Painter. Just go to your desired page, click "Print Screen", then open Windows Paint and paste onto it. After that, crop as you need.

Keep in mind, coping images or webpages may be subject of copyright.


How to change the default Mail account in Mountain Lion? I have 2 mail accounts configured. When composing a new message, it will default to the account for the currently selected mailbox, which is fine. However, when no particular mailbox is selected (when viewing the combined Inbox for example), it will default to the first listed mail account.

How can I change the default mail account when no particular mailbox is active? IIRC, you used to be able to drag them into order, but this no longer seems to work.

I am aware that you can specify a default mail account for all new messages, but I'd like to preserve the behavior where it will default to the account of the currently active mailbox, if one is active.

Instead of trying to drag the account(s) into the desired order in Preferences, drag the account's mailbox to the desired order from the mailbox list in the sidebar of Mail.app main window. Open the inbox and drag the desired sub-inbox to the top. The position in the other places like the trash and drafts boxes will follow.

Then quit Mail.app and open it again to make the changes take effect.

Whichever account's mailbox is at the top of the list will be the default mailbox.

If an account mailbox is at the top, but the account is not the default, drag it down and then back up to the top. This will reset the order and establish the top one as the default.

The answer's very easy.

Go to System Preferences > Composing > Send new messages

and choose the desired email you want to compose from and WALAH!! = )


Does charging my early 2015 MacBook Pro all the time damage the battery? I am using my early 2015 MacBook Pro as a desktop by connecting it to an external display, thus, it needs to be plugged in to a charger all the time.

Does charging my early 2015 MacBook Pro all the time damage the battery?
Is it a bad practice?

Apple recommends not leaving it plugged in all the time. This can damage the battery over time, as lithium-ion batteries need to be frequently discharged.

If you are going to use an external monitor, why not buy a desktop computer? MacBooks are made to be portable and have their batteries used.

Keeping your Mac plugged in 24/7 is dangerous and will shorten the life of your battery exponentially. From imploding to starting a fire, you should only plug it in when needed. A while back I lost everything when I left my Mac (which was bought recently) plugged in for the week I went to Italy. The battery imploded and I was unable to retrieve anything. For safety and security, do not keep your Mac charging all of the time.


Shift+C no longer working I am not sure why and quite saddened by this but I can no longer type a capital 'C' on my keyboard for my Mac mini running OS X Yosemite. I have run through all of the shortcuts in System Preferences->Keyboard->Shortcuts, but Shift+C is not listed there, anywhere...

What is causing this, and how to fix it?

Have you taken that keyboard to another computer or tried another keyboard on the Mac Mini?

The most elegant solution to your problem would be if it's a hardware issue on that specific keyboard.

I had the same issue it was because i had SHIFT-C bound to toggle mute in skype


VNC Viewer with clipboard sync I need to connect to Ubuntu Vinegar VNC and Windows UltraVNC.  I can't find one that sync's the clipboard so I can past from my Macbook to the others OS.  It works fine Windows to Ubuntu and vise versa so the VNC servers are fine.

A low cost solution would be preferred as my countries currency is a quarter of the value of the US$.

Jollys Fast VNC

It attempts to keep the clipboards in sync and for the most part it does a very good job of it. Not all objects copied to the clipboard on one machine can be used on another though. For example: copying a file the clipboard just puts a lean file object in the clipboard which has no parallel on the remote machine.

But for text and such it works great.

There's a free trial (that continually renews itself) and you can buy it in the MAS as well for not a lot of money (there's a "home" version for even less).

TeamViewer supports Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux, and has great support for remote actions, file transfers, and native clipboard exchanges.  I've never used TV for clipboards with remote Linux systems but it's definitely been better than any VNC solutions I've used.  Free for personal use.


Problems connecting to iTunes store Every time I open App Store on my iPhone, I am prompted for my password, which I do – and then, the message “Cannot connect to iTunes store” appears.

Here's the thing: Everything else network related works on the phone. I can browse the web, I can even browse the app store from within the App Store app, and I can update apps when required. I just can't buy any new apps.

I have tried everything on the following knowledge base articles, to no avail:

Can't connect to the iTunes Store
iTunes: Possible iTunes Store errors
iTunes: Advanced iTunes Store troubleshooting

What to do?

I solved the problem with help from Apple support. The resolution in my case was simple enough, if perhaps a bit drastic: I had to reset the network settings.

Settings → General → Reset → Reset Network Settings

Warning: This reboots the phone, and you have to reenter any WiFi settings for networks you use. Be sure that you have the needed passwords before doing so!

This may not be the solution for you, if you have this problem. Be sure to consult the three articles linked from the question first! But the network settings reset is an option to keep in mind if all else fails, and before you contact Apple Support yourself. (I don't know why this is not listed on the Advanced … page.)

Try to have iOS 8 and then try connecting to iTunes. It should be able to connect.


How to move movie files from iMovie library to Photos library I have imported my movie files to the iMovie library (imovielibrary) but want them moved to the Photos library (photoslibrary).

What is the easiest most efficient way to do this without reimporting the from the original source?

Find the Imovie Library

In finder navigate to the Imovie Library file. It should be in this directory Users/NAME/Movies/iMovie Library. Right click the  and select Show Package Contents.

Find the right event

There you'll find a directory for each event. Each event directory contains a folder called original media. Those files can be dragged into Photos.

Check this, i had the same problem as you and here is the solution : https://discussions.apple.com/thread/1501281?tstart=0


How to create a text file in a folder In windows I right click and then there is an option to create a text file.

How to do so in mac?

You can also do this in Terminal. Go to the directory where you want to create the file, then run the following:

touch file.txt

Or redirect 'nothing' to a text file

> file.txt

Have a PC with Windows on board.
In Windows Explorer, right-click inside any folder, choose Create text file. It creates the file.
Upload the file to any cloud service, or attach to a letter.
On your Mac, download the file wherever you want.
Profit!


Google Chrome repeatedly displays monospaced fonts wrong as “Times New Roman” I observe an extremely annoying font problem in Google Chrome for Mac. When I visit a page like GitHub or Bitbucket (which use monospaced fonts, e.g. for code) I see the HTML sections that are meant to be displayed in a monospaced font displayed in “Times New Roman”. This pretty much makes these sites useless for me.

I found a blog post that describes a similar problem and which suggests to clear Mac OS X’s font caches with these terminal commands:

$ sudo atsutil databases -remove
$ atsutil server -shutdown
$ atsutil server -ping

This eliminates the problem but it only lasts until I restart the computer. I would have to issue these commands every time before I start Google Chrome after a computer restart to have monospaced fonts on these sites display correctly.

For clarification here are two screenshots that display the problem.

This is how it looks before I remove the font caches:

This is how it looks after the font caches have been cleared and how it should look:

Does anyone know of this problem and can provide a solution?

I have been using Linotypes Font Explorer for quite some time now. There is a free version which is great. I have found less font issues on my Macs since using this app than with Suitcase, Fontbook or Fontcase, particularly with web sites. Once installed you can run a font cleaner which examines all your volumes on your Mac and eliminate sang potential problems

Try re-downloading the font you need into the Font Book.  Then it should work.  If the problem persists, try going through the settings in your browser.


Is there an iOS app or jailbreak modification that can activate true caps lock? I'm using jailbroken iOS 5.1.1 and am looking for an app or setting that enables true caps lock.  Meaning, once activated, caps lock behaves like it does on a PC and stays enabled when you switch to numbers or even between apps.

As it is right now, caps lock is disabled when you go to the home page, switch apps, or even switch to number input.

If necessary, I'm willing to manually configure a custom keyboard to have capital letters in place of the default ones.  I'm even willing to downgrade the operating system for this.

Does something like this exist in jailbreak land or is there a hidden setting of some sort?

To enable caps lock in iOS 5 double tap the shift key. The shift key will become blue signifying caps lock is enabled.

Caps lock will be disabled if switching to other input keyboards (switching to type numbers/special characters) or applications.

Source for answer is from a TUAW article.


Performance issues, can I recover memory? In the past month I am having some serious performance issues with my MacBook Pro (2008 model).
From the activity monitor, I get that the CPU usage is low (25%), disk usage is low (256 GB SSD drive, 50% free), network activity almost null.
What concerns me is system memory usage; of the 4GB RAM I have:

Free: 35 MB
Wired: 1.1 GB
Active: 1.9 GB
Inactive: 900 MB
Used: 3.99 GB
VM size: 650 GB
Swap used: 11 GB

I have nothing particularly heavy running. Could it be that, since I have not rebooted for a few months, some executables keep requiring memory slowing the system down (memory leak)?

Is it possible to recover unused but locked memory, without a reboot?

To answer your question, yes, applications and processes continue to start up and if you have not manually closed them or restarted the computer, you will be "losing" RAM. You can turn the inactive memory into free memory with this command in Terminal:

sudo purge

You can also run Activity Monitor to diagnose what apps are running and sort the list by most memory.

Reboot your machine. You'll free up both memory and disk space.


Applications sometimes reopen at start-up in Mountain Lion Despite un-checking the "Reopen windows when logging back in" checkbox when turning off the computer, applications reopen sometimes at the next start-up. Furthermore, this happens also when I quit all the applications manualy before, which is strange. This issue occurs in Mountain Lion (10.8, 10.8.1 and 10.8.2), never actually happend to me in Lion. Maybe it's worth noting that this is not a clean install, but an upgrade from Lion.

Is there any solution how to prevent this (maybe from the Terminal)?

Here are a few places to check:

"Under the hood" locations:

Be careful when working with the plist files in the folders listed below. Some of them may be full programs, others may be "helper apps".
Don't touch any plist files for programs you use that may have "behind-the-scenes" assets.
If the plist filename is ambiguous, you can look inside the plist files for the name of the application. If there are remnants from old programs you have uninstalled or were before upgrade, move the file(s) in question to your desktop one folder at a time (/Library/StartupItems), then reboot.
If your system works as expected (meaning nothing catastrophic happens and the program you were trying to kill is gone), throw the plist files on your desktop away, then proceed to the next folder and repeat the process.
When working with files in the Library folders, you may need to authenticate deletes as an administrator.
/Library/StartupItems
~/Library/StartupItems (if it exists)
/Library/LaunchDaemons
/Library/LaunchAgents
~/Library/LaunchAgents (if it exists)

System Preferences: Take a look at Users & Groups in your System Preferences and click on the Login Items button at the top of the window. Check if any programs that automatically load after reboot are on the list and set to run at login.

While there may be other ways to clean house, including formatting your hard dive and a fresh install of Mountain Lion (Check out Lion Diskmaker for a thumb drive installer for 10.8), these will give you a good start.

Happy cleaning!

Go to apple - shutdown and untick the box that says "reopen windows when logging back in".


Keyboard shortcut for locking screen in macOS Sierra? In previous versions of OSX, I could use Ctrl Shift  Power on my built in keyboard, or Ctrl Shift  Eject on my (old) Apple bluetooth keyboard to lock the screen.

After upgrading to Sierra, that shortcut stopped working. Using Karabiner-EventViewer I discovered that pressing the built in power button triggers SysKey 0x6, and the Bluetooth keyboard Eject triggers no events.

Whats going on, and how can re-enable that shortcut?

In macOS High Sierra (10.13) there is a 'Lock Screen' option built in the Apple menu.

And finally a shortcut ctrl + cmd + Q :-)

To lock screen:

press control + Command + Q


DNS servers aren't specific to network? On my Mac, I am trying to set my DNS servers so that they are 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 at my house, while at school they are the router default (they block google's public DNS)

How can I set up my DNS servers to be configured differently for each wireless network?

note: router configuration at my home is not an option.

I am running:
macOS 10.12.3 16D32 Sierra
MacBook Pro 13" w/ 4 Thunderbolt 3

How can I set up my DNS servers to be configured differently for each wireless network?

Set and Change in Network Preferences

You can set your own custom DNS settings on a location basis by defining a "Location" in Network Preferences

You would then enter your preferred DNS settings (click "Advanced") under the DNS tab:

After you create set the configuration to your liking, you can call it up by returning to this preferences page and just selecting the location of your choice.

Or...

You can switch from the directly from Apple Menu ().  Just choose "Location" and select the location you want

Switch using command Line

For a quicker way, you can switch using the command networksetup.  So, to switch to a profile you have already created called "School" your command would be:

networksetup -switchlocation School

Bonus footage...

You could create small bash scripts with the command pre populated and placed (or linked) on your desktop.

#!/bin/bash
#Script to set the location to School

networksetup -switchlocation School
exit

Name it something meaningful like school.sh or school.command (or even just school).  Make it executable by issuing the command chmod +x /path/to/school.command (or whatever you called it).  Make another for Home, Work, In-Laws, or wherever.  When you double click on it, it will change the network location and your preset settings.

Caveat

If your organization (like your school) blocks outside DNS servers and traffic limiting it to the DNS servers they specify, you won't be able to override them.

You can also install dnscrypt so that the curious people that run the school don't know to which sites you are navigating.....


Have I been hacked or compromised from an answered face time call from South Africa? at 603 EDT I received a face time video call but somehow hung it up without answering (I was sleeping) at 605 they called back and since I was sleeping didn't really pay attention to it and answered it.  It looked and sounded like a party in the video so I immediately hung up. The line was open for 3 seconds and I have since blocked the number. Here is the number +27 (64) 6528179. Do I need to do anything to further protect my iPhone iPad and Mac? Thx, Oscar

Nope, no one can hack your iPhone or steal your data just by connecting with you over facetime.


Is it possible to restart an iPhone? I just want to restart my iPhone not turn it off + turn it back on.

In Android there is an option.

You force restart iPhone simply by pressing and holding both the home button and the power button until you see the Apple logo. For this force restart both buttons are held simultaneously.

I have been in at least one situation where the phone would not power off and the only way to get the phone back working was to force restart.

This is similar to holding the power button down on a computer and crashing it entirely, and just like a computer, is typically only needed on rare occasions when nothing else will work. Refer to this KB document for more information: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1430.

Yes, restarts are possible. Hold the home button and the lock button until the Apple logo is displayed.Switching it off & on is the same as restarting.


Yahoo! two-step authentication with iOS Mail and Apple Mail I have recently activated two-step authentication for my Yahoo! e-mail account. I am now no longer able to use iOS Mail (on iPhone) or Apple Mail (on macOS) even though I have created third-party app passwords as recommended by Yahoo!.

The error messages read "Invalid Password. Please try again." (in Settings | Mail | Accounts | ...@yahoo.com | Re-enter Password) and "Wrong Password. Try again." for iOS Mail and Apple Mail respectively.

So how can I successfully configure Yahoo! third-party app passwords into iOS Mail and Apple Mail?

When you sign in with third party apps into Yahoo Account, the password you have to give is not the account password that you use , instead you have to use a key which is provided by yahoo for that particular third party application.

ie, in Yahoo Account Security Settings you have to generate a key for each application which you use to login the Yahoo Account. Next time during login to Yahoo Account through application you have to give this key in place of your password.
More details in Yahoo Account Security Setting https://help.yahoo.com/kb/SLN15241.html
Hope this helps


How to see how much music do I have in iTunes? The new iTunes version has brought some changes. And I just realized that it won't show anymore how much music do I have.

It used to say the size and the total play time at the bottom of the window, but it's gone now. Can I ripristinate the indicator? Or what's the easiest way to check my music library size?

You can bring back those details at the bottom of the screen by clicking Show Status Bar in the View menu, or pressing ⌘/.

Go to Settings, then General, then About and it should list how many songs, videos, photos etc. that you have.


Outlook for Mac 2011: How to find the folder where a message is stored? When I perform a search in Outlook for Mac 2011, I can't seem to figure out how to determine which folder each of the search results is stored.

This questions has been answered for Office for Windows: http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook-help/i-can-t-find-the-folder-where-a-message-is-stored-HA001140027.aspx

This is probably completely obvious, but I can't seem to find it...

Update: I'm still looking for a solution that doesn't require me to switch to View -> Reading Pane -> Below

The easiest method to show which folder an email is currently located is to right click on the header bar in Outlook and add the "folder" (visible columns have a check mark to the left of it) column to the current view. This will show you which folder said email is contained in when you perform a search. If you no longer wish to have the "folder" seen in the current view just reverse the process to hide it again. If this is your only customization to the current view you can alternately choose to "reset to defaults" by right clicking on the header bar and choosing the reset to defaults action.

Search ALL FOLDERS will show you the folder, even in reading pane Right!


/etc/hosts will not update/refresh at all I add to my /etc/hosts file this :

127.0.0.1 youtube.com

Save the file. Flush everything with :

dscacheutil -flushcache; sudo killall -HUP mDNSResponder

Reboot my computer 30 times.

Then I run:

dscacheutil -q host -a name youtube.com

And I get :

name: youtube.com
ip_address: 216.58.220.46

Clear my cache completely since the beginning of time in any browser, go to : youtube.com, and I get youtube.com, not my localhost.

I'm using OS X 10.10.5, Yosemite.

Check your hosts file, because probably it's malformed. It should look similar to this one:

##
# Host Database
#
# localhost is used to configure the loopback interface
# when the system is booting.  Do not change this entry.
##
127.0.0.1       localhost
127.0.0.1       youtube.com
127.0.0.1       www.youtube.com
255.255.255.255 broadcasthost
::1             localhost

Opening the file with sudo nano /etc/hosts it should have a trailing empty line. All entries for 127.0.0.1 should be added above the broadcasthost. The space between IP-address and hostname should be one tab: ⇥.

After writing the file to disk with nano, the changes should take effect immediately (usually without executing any dnscacheutil or killall commands). Check this with ping youtube.com.

Google Chrome is (probably) the only app which doesn't adhere properly (as a test in a VM revealed).

100% working try so:

Ex:
0.0.0.0 example.com
::  example.com
0.0.0.0 www.example.com
::  www.example.com

You have to put 0.0.0.0 and :: both for www. or without www


External Monitor not working on MacBook Pro 2015 with HDMI-VGA converter I have an HDMI to VGA connector and a Samsung LED screen. The screen is fine, the VGA cable is fine, the connector is fine (tried with different laptops running Ubuntu and Windows).

The Problem:
I'm plugging the HDMI-VGA connector in my Macbook Pro 2015 but the display doesn't show on the external screen.

What I've tried:
I went in Displays and tried all given options like extend screen and more. The window also shows the name of the screen "SMB2230" on my Macbook and when I plug-in the HDMI, the screen flickers for a second and dock (on the right) disappears from the built-in display and I can move my mouse to the right and it also disappears but the external monitor shows the message "Check signal cable". I have tried restarting it as well but no luck.

Note: The screen is working with other laptops running Windows and Ubuntu with the same connector and the same VGA cable.

Please don't tell me that I have to use MiniDisplay port/wire from Apple.

here is an image

Try a PRAM and SMC reset. Usually helps.

Also try replugging in the connectors on both ends

Look at my answer on this forum, hope it will work for you! https://discussions.apple.com/message/30126959#30126959


Preview - Export to PDF without margins Preview (like most Mac apps) can print to PDFs, and even has a shortcut for this functionality via a menu option Export as PDF.... I have a scanned document in .tiff format that I'd like to convert to a PDF, but using the option above yields a PDF with large margins around the image file. Is there a reason why this is happening? More importantly, is there a way to suppress these margins?

If you don't want any borders, create a custom paper size and change margin size to 0 as shown below:

Name your custom paper size, use it and create PDF.

Use "Print" other than "Export" gives the most customizability.
Print (⌘ + p) > Paper Size > Manage Custom Size > Set Left Top Bottom Right to 0mm.

To export PDF, click PDF > Save as PDF in Print Window.


Notes iCloud sync fail Yosemite and IOS8 Notes appear not to be syncing reliably. There are other questions but appear to be about older versions.

No two of iCloud, IOS and Mac seem to be fully in sync. (iCloud and IoS do appear to be in sync now) Setup is in ssytem preferences all except Back to My Mac and keychain are ticked on in the iCloud pane Mail, Calendars and Safari all sync.

Later on a retry iCloud web notes page just hangs this was after iPhones and web seemed to sync better (i.e. a iPhone test note got to the web) - get does not respond message and hit button to report to Apple. Only the notes pane is affected all others seem OK. Note this freeze happened after I wrote this - when I wrote this it seemed to react but just did not have up to date from iPhone or Mac

All my old notes seem to be OK. Probably sync by wire under iTunes before iOS8

My email seems to sync correctly

iCloud shows all notes over a year old in its list (but then shows ion screen the one I just typed in on my IPhone)

iPhone and Mac seems to be in sync for up to last Monday (Note as Monday 22nd now it looks odd for iPhone to show  Monday for notes update on 15th Dec)

How do I force a sync

How do I debug this - what logs etc

It's a bit difficult to diagnose this with the info you've given but from experience I've found that you are able to reliably "force an sync" with any sort of iCloud data by going to System Preferences and signing out + signing back in (it'll warn you about removing iCloud data from the device, etc.)

As said in the previous answer, make sure you are syncing your notes with iCloud and not with a) another provider (Google, Exchange) or b) not syncing at all (i.e., storing locally). Verify this on the iPhone in Settings > Notes > Accounts or on the Mac with System Preferences > Internet Accounts.

The best way to see what is actually being stored in iCloud is at its web app like you've been doing.

It's possible some of your notes are stored 'On My Mac'.

Open Notes, select View > Show Folders List from the menu bar.

Then check if any notes are stored under 'On My Mac', if there are, drag them to 'iCloud'.