Japanese language input erratic after move to High Sierra After installing High Sierra the Japanese input method has started to behave very oddly:

My keyboard shortcuts to switch input methods all work as expected but...
After switching to Japanese the output is not as expected:
Depending on the application I get either:

a. plain old roman letters, even with 'Live Conversion' activated, and the space bar (normally activating the conversion to kanji) produces a space.

b. roman letters, then hitting the space bar converts directly to kanji (no intervening kana) and the kanji (not the normal 'candidate' list) appears to the right of the original roman letters (it should replace them) It should also be noted that hitting the space bar (aimed at doing the conversion) produces a 'Japanese' space (U+3000).
Apple Apps that show behaviour (a) are search bars in:

Console
App Store
Activity Monitor
Calendar
Font Book
Pages, Text Edit (main text area)

Apple Apps that show behaviour (b) are:

Dictionary (search bar)
Safari (Search/Address bar)

All the non-Apple apps I've tried so far are in the (a) 'complete fail' category.

Re-installing the system had no effect. Likewise repairing permissions by running First Aid from Disk Utility.

There is no text replacement software installed, also no anti-virus software.

A new user account created on the same machine does not suffer from this problem.

Perhaps relatedly, my 'Region and Language' preference pane refuses to load and causes the System Preferences app to freeze when clicked. This does produce an error message in the Console, it reads (helpfully!) <private>.

If anybody has any suggestions as to a straightforward solution, or at least a strategy to identify the problem, I would be extremely grateful.

Cheers.

The most straightforward solution is to move everything to a working account.

It used to be you could usually fix these kinds of problems by trashing .plists and .cache files in Home/Library of the bad account, but it seems to be less successful and more tedious with the most recent versions of MacOS.

If Kokonor font is disabled, try to enable it.


How to save chat logs in Messages for Mountain Lion? I always used to save my Chat logs because I use IM in the professional environment. Now I find that I can’t save chat logs anymore. That option is gone. Is there any workaround or hidden preference to enable saving chat logs again?

In Preferences, select Messages and check "Save history when conversations are closed." Now when you quit Messages, it will create a collection of chat transcripts. You can easily access these in your Library folder. From Finder, select Go>Go to Folder and type: ~/Library/Messages/Archive. If you are on Mavericks or Yosemite, the location is ~/Library/Containers/com.apple.iChat/Data/Library/Messages. This will take you directly to the appropriate folder.

If you want the easiest, most foolproof way to do this with the most flexible format WITH images/videos/gifs/emoji/allthethings, follow along. This method contains absolutely zero automation, so even your hip grandma can follow along.

Open the Messages app
Open the conversation you want to copy and keep scrolling to the top to load more of the conversation until you've loaded all that you want.
Select all (Cmd+A)
Copy (Cmd+C)
Open TextEdit and start a New Document
Paste (Cmd+V)

As you can see, all of the text and media are there, and you can edit it like any word file. Want it as a PDF? Just Export to PDF, and it won't even break pages in the middle of images and stuff (as would printing to PDF from the Messages app). Make sure you save this file somewhere before proceeding to the extra step below: resizing photos.

If your transcript contains gargantuan 3648x2736 images like mine do, you're going to want to reduce their size to fit in the document. This is simple: the image data is saved as part of the document. So, just...

Double-click the image you want to reduce to open it in Preview
Once in Preview, select (from the menu bar) Tools > Adjust Size
By default, the Width value is selected and the dimensions are constrained (meaning changing one will adjust the other to keep it in the current Height/Width ratio) as depicted by the little locked padlock icon nearby. Enter a more sane value; I like to go with 640x480 for my images. If you're savvy, move to step 4. If you have no idea what value to enter... First make sure the little padlock icon is 'locked'. If it isn't, click on it and it should become locked. Next, select the larger of the two values (double-clicking on it will fully select), delete the value, and then enter 640. Press ENTER or click the OK button at the bottom.
Your image should now be reduced in size, and you can close the window (Cmd+W), quit (Cmd+Q), or whatever (Cmd+????????)
You should be back in your text document and the image size will have updated. Note: The one anything thing here is that TextEdit likes to scroll you all the way to the top of the document. Them's the breaks.

There you have it. Chat transcript archived like a boss.


Error when installing El Capitan: disk does not use GUID partition scheme, and I am unable to convert I am running Yosemite version 10.10.5. I have a second partition running Windows 10. My main partition, running OS X, is formatted as Mac OS Extended (Journaled). I try to follow the instructions in the error message, but the Option button is not available.

I do not know how to proceed, and would appreciate some help.

Terminal output:

diskutil cs list:

No CoreStorage logical volume groups found

sudo gpt -r show /dev/disk0:

gpt show: error: bogus map
gpt show: unable to open device '/dev/disk0': Undefined error: 0

sudo fdisk /dev/disk0:

Disk: /dev/disk0    geometry: 29185/255/63 [468862128 sectors]
Signature: 0xAA55
         Starting       Ending
 #: id  cyl  hd sec -  cyl  hd sec [     start -       size]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
 1: AF   25 127  15 - 1023 254  63 [    409640 -  400094952] HFS+
 2: AB 1023 254  63 - 1023 254  63 [ 400504592 -    1269536] Darwin Boot
*3: 07 1023 254  63 - 1023 254  63 [ 401785650 -   67071375] HPFS/QNX/AUX
 4: 00    0   0   0 -    0   0   0 [         0 -          0] unused

sudo gdisk /dev/disk0:

sudo: gdisk: command not found

Considering the comments and the results of the different listings above, Yosemite probably was installed with a hack to enable a Windows MBR only install.

I assume it was the Yosemite MBR Patch 10.10 (14A389). The patch allows you to install Yosemite to a disk with a pure MBR partition table and not the default GUID partition table with a pMBR or hybrid MBR (if Windows is installed).

Depending on the efforts needed to save your data, you may either backup everything, reinstall first Yosemite (or El Capitan) from scratch after partitioning the main disk with a GUID partition table and migrate your data from the backup and then install Windows with Boot Camp Assistant or create a GUID partition table with proper partition values manually after booting to Internet Recovery Mode. The latter will probably render Windows unbootable.

Since the first method is trivial I only describe the second one.

Add a GUID partition table manually:

This method will probably render Windows unbootable!

Preparation:

Backup your data - especially any data on your Windows partition.
Detach any external drive (especially your external Time Machine backup drive).
Restart to Internet Recovery Mode by pressing alt cmd R at startup.
The prerequisites are the latest firmware update installed, either ethernet or WLAN (WPA/WPA2) and a router with DHCP activated.
On a 50 Mbps-line it takes about 4 min (presenting a small animated globe) to boot to a recovery netboot image which usually is loaded from an apple/akamai server.

I recommend ethernet because it's more reliable. If you are restricted to WIFI and the boot process fails, just restart your Mac until you succeed booting.

Alternatively you may start from a bootable installer thumb drive (Mavericks or Yosemite) or a thumb drive containing a full system (Mavericks or Yosemite).

Adding GUID partition table and the already existing MBR partitions:

Open Utilities -> Terminal
Enter diskutil list to get an overview
Unmount your main disk with diskutil umountDisk /dev/disk0 (assumimg disk0 is the disk identifier of your main disk).
Add an GUID partition table with gpt create /dev/disk0
Add the EFI and the existent "MBR partitions":

The command basically looks like this:

gpt add -b StartBlock -i IndexNumber -s NumberOfBlocks -t Type device

To add all your partitions enter with the data found in your fdisk list:

gpt add -b 40 -i 1 -s 409600 -t C12A7328-F81F-11D2-BA4B-00A0C93EC93B /dev/disk0
gpt add -b 409640 -i 2 -s 400094952 -t 48465300-0000-11AA-AA11-00306543ECAC /dev/disk0
diskutil umountDisk /dev/disk0
gpt add -b 400504592 -i 3 -s 1269536 -t 426F6F74-0000-11AA-AA11-00306543ECAC /dev/disk0
diskutil umountDisk /dev/disk0
gpt add -b 401785650 -i 4 -s 67071375 -t EBD0A0A2-B9E5-4433-87C0-68B6B72699C7 /dev/disk0

The size of the last partition (your Windows partition) is odd because usually it's a multiple of 8. But I have no explication for this.

The first partition is the EFI partition, the second your main Yosemite volume, the third volume is your Recovery HD and the last one is the Windows partition.
You may label your partitions with following command if they have no names:

gpt label -i number -l name device

Example:

gpt label -i 2 -l "Macintosh HD" /dev/disk0s2

Quit Terminal by entering quit and start Disk Utility
Check the consistency of your main volume (disk0s2)
Reboot to your main volume and install El Capitan

iPartition just payed for itself.. Convert function!
Kd4hls


Why do some iPhones have a low battery sound? You guys have never heard of this before. Most of you at least. I own 2 iPhones bought in a legitimate Chinese Apple store. Whenever I use it, they would make a tri-tone dying robot low battery sound at 20% and 10%. This will sound even if you're on silent. So to turn it off (you can't) you'd have to change your ringer volume. There are no apps causing this since I wiped my phone and it still happens. I would like to make a conclusion that only Chinese iPhones have this stupid tone.

Why did they put that on these phones and not American ones?

The app "Battery Alert!" will allow you to change several battery related sounds (warning, alert, and full). It is currently $.99 USD on the app store.


OSX: How to compare and merge two folders and their subfolders and differing files of the same origin I'm among those unlucky few (I'm hoping there are more than one) that are stuck with truly utterly messy backups from multiple machines, in multiple folders.

I've now managed to figure out that I've got one folder with 18gb and 44000+ files and one folder with 17gb and 34000+ files. They are the same folder, but one is on backup2/ and the other is in backup3/. I've used MacPaw's Gemini to remove duplicates from folder1 - and sometimes used Gemini to remove duplicates from folder2. They could be described as being totally out of sync with eachother - they are from separate times and now with mismatching files - i.e., there are duplicates there, but not really enough to use Gemini easily.

I'd like to compare and merge them, but safely. Without losing folders. One might have a subfolder inside a subfolder with 35 files, the other with 12 files - yet the 12 files wouldn't be in the 35 files, so I'd have to be able to merge subfolders so that I don't lose any files. Also, there are, as you would expect, duplicates there too, files with the same name, but with differing file content. I'd have to make copies of those to compare them, remove lines (in case of a textfile) from txt1 and add them to txt2, etc.

What should I do, and which app should I use to visually be able to combine these folders and their subfolders and their contents, merging the files and only keeping the ones that are absolutely differently sized (maybe I've touched a few of the files, maybe not, it's a total shambles).

How should I proceed? I'm running diff on the folders, but that's really quite complicated work.

I realize this is quite the complex question.

The rsync command line tool is able to merge two folders.
You'll need to open a terminal window. Take a look at the manual pages

man rsync

There may be a one liner but the following steps are non-destructive since you won't change your source folders.

Create a new folder (dest)
Sync source1_path to dest
Sync source2_path to dest

Here the script - check the manual pages for additional options

rsync -rv source1_path/ dest
rsync -rv source2_path/ dest

The following commands also create copies for non-identical files which exist in both source directories (with a difference in size or timestamp for example)

rsync -rv --backup --suffix=_source1 source1_path/ dest
rsync -rv --backup --suffix=_source2 source2_path/ dest

Why not view in LIST the folder in which these two folders are ??
Then in View Options sort against CREATE DATE, you will be able to trash the older one and have the newer one survive.


How can I remove the explicit label from a song? I bought a song from iTunes that is marked as explicit. However, the song is not actually explicit. When I try to edit the song's info in iTunes Music Library.xml, it simply reverts to the original information upon opening iTunes. Is there any way to remove the explicit label?

Edit: I would prefer to do this without any third party software, but it doesn't matter too much.

Remove rating for one song
The app subler allows to edit a song's info manually. I've successfully tried version 0.14 in Lion.

Remove (suppress) ratings for all songs
You can choose to not show explicit labels for all songs in the parental controls of iTunes: iTunes Preferences -> Parental -> Show content ratings in library

Go to Google and find "how to make MP3 files with iTunes"
Convert your song(s) to MP3, then that explicit label would be gone.
That's it, then you're done.


Mount external HDD readOnly option I have the following problem: I used the optical bay to use a HDD in my mid 2010 13" Macbook Pro in addition to my SSD. It was working just fine until a few days ago, when it started to get "slower". VLC Player (on SSD) wasn't able to play videos on the HDD anymore, and when I tried to copy files from the HDD to the SSD it took ages (the speed was about 20 mb/m). Also it took a really long time to see what's in a folder when I opened it (but after 5-10 seconds I could at least see what files were in which folder).

My first question is: Is my HDD slowly dying? What could the problem be?

A friend was trying to help me repair it (he tried several things in the terminal and in safe mode - I do not remember all of it, but anyhow.. nothing worked). During this we unmounted the HDD and since then I am not able to mount it anymore.
When I try

diskutil mount /dev/disk1s2

in the terminal it says

Volume on disk1s2 failed to mount If the volume is damaged, try the "readOnly" option

How can I try to mount it in readOnly mode?

diskutil mount readOnly /dev/disk1s2

doesn't work..

I would really appreciate it if you could help me. I have a lot of new photos and music on the HDD I have not backed up yet.

Enter in Terminal.app:

sudo asr adjust --target /dev/disk1s2 --settype "Apple_HFS"

and then try:

diskutil mount readOnly /dev/disk1s2

TO your first question, yes probably your disk is dying :(

To your second question, try mounting with either diskutil mountDisk /dev/disk1s2 or diskutil mountDisk readOnly /dev/disk1s2

This is required if there are multiple partitions in the disk, read man page of diskUtil, that would help.


songs list under albums is absent in new ios 8.4 music app Before update, when i was viewing artists and I'd go inside an artist, I could see an album name followed by all songs under that album and then the next album and so on.

Now, in artist view, I just see the album and I have to go further inside to see the songs of that album (unless there is just one song in the album).

Is this bothering someone else? Is there a way to fix this?

Thanks,
Amit

Seems like it depends on how many songs/albums you have for each artist. Some artists that I have only a few songs from have the same old style. If I have like every song from every album, then I have your problem. I think it just depends on the amount of songs you have.

Personally I prefer it like this as this is how it used to be... I was a bit confused to why it was only doing it with some and not others but now I understand having it not bunch them up if I only have two or less albums is a lot more bearable than if for example, I have ten albums of some artists and have to go through every single song to get to one album. Much better for those that have a large music collection!


problem accessing localhost on Mac OS X Mavericks...it was working fine until I rebooted today I am perplexed about the problem I am having and would really appreciate help resolving it.

I have an iMac running Mac OS X Mavericks 10.9.2

I have set up my apache to serve documents from the server root /Volume/sites/

I am using Dynamic Virtual hosts, so just by adding a directory with the *.dev suffix, it becomes a virtual host.

My hosts file is pretty basic:

##
# Host Database
#
# localhost is used to configure the loopback interface
# when the system is booting.  Do not change this entry.
##
127.0.0.1         localhost
255.255.255.255   broadcasthost
::1               localhost
fe80::1%lo0       localhost

My httpd-vhosts.conf file is as follows:

#
# Virtual Hosts
#
# If you want to maintain multiple domains/hostnames on your
# machine you can setup VirtualHost containers for them. Most configurations
# use only name-based virtual hosts so the server doesn't need to worry about
# IP addresses. This is indicated by the asterisks in the directives below.
#
# Please see the documentation at
# <URL:http://httpd.apache.org/docs/2.2/vhosts/>
# for further details before you try to setup virtual hosts.
#
# You may use the command line option '-S' to verify your virtual host
# configuration.

#
# Use name-based virtual hosting.
#
NameVirtualHost *:80

#
# VirtualHost example:
# Almost any Apache directive may go into a VirtualHost container.
# The first VirtualHost section is used for all requests that do not
# match a ServerName or ServerAlias in any <VirtualHost> block.
#

#allow access to the Hosts directory where your sites are
<Directory "/Volumes/sites">
    Options Indexes FollowSymLinks MultiViews
    AllowOverride All
    #you could configure the following to only allow access from localhost
    Order allow,deny
    Allow from all
</Directory>

#get the server name from the Host: header
UseCanonicalName Off
VirtualDocumentRoot /Volumes/sites/%0/

This all worked. And I have not changed anything in my httpd.conf file.

Yet I can't load localhost

I also cannot load 127.0.0.1

I ran the command sudo lsof -i :80 | egrep "PID|LISTEN" to see if any PID was listening on port 80. The results were empty.

I have tried to restart apache and also to stop and then start apache using

sudo apachectl stop
sudo apachectl start

sudo apachectl restart

Nothing works.

I checked if apache was running by issuing the command httpd -v

The return was:

Server version: Apache/2.2.26 (Unix)
Server built:   Dec 10 2013 22:09:38

I tried to connect to localhost and 127.0.0.1 via the command line with the following result:

alisamii at alisamii in ~
$ telnet localhost 80
Trying ::1...
telnet: connect to address ::1: Connection refused
Trying 127.0.0.1...
telnet: connect to address 127.0.0.1: Connection refused
Trying fe80::1...
telnet: connect to address fe80::1: Connection refused
telnet: Unable to connect to remote host
alisamii at alisamii in ~
$ telnet 127.0.0.1 80
Trying 127.0.0.1...
telnet: connect to address 127.0.0.1: Connection refused
telnet: Unable to connect to remote host
alisamii at alisamii in ~
$ lynx http://localhost

Looking up localhost
Making HTTP connection to localhost
Alert!: Unable to connect to remote host.

lynx: Can't access startfile http://localhost/
alisamii at alisamii in ~
$ lynx http://127.0.0.1

Looking up 127.0.0.1
Making HTTP connection to 127.0.0.1
Alert!: Unable to connect to remote host.

lynx: Can't access startfile http://127.0.0.1/
alisamii at alisamii in ~

Please help.

Had the same problem. I deleted one of my project's folder and it became broken.
In this case the site's configs should be removed from httpd-vhosts.conf and httpd.conf.

Try ping 127.0.0.1

apachectl configtest can help you to detect the problem.

This might help with your query.
http://mallinson.ca/web-development-with-mavericks/


How is the Apple Watch connected to the Internet? The Apple Watch uses the Internet for a lot of things : Siri answers, sending messages...

But how is the Apple Watch connected to the Internet ?

I have searched a bit, to no avail. This information must be too technical. ;-)

From the "Apple Watch User Guide"

  Apple Watch uses Bluetooth® wireless technology to connect to its paired iPhone and uses the iPhone for many wireless functions. Apple Watch can’t configure new Wi-Fi networks on its own, but it can connect to Wi-Fi networks you’ve set up on the paired iPhone.

  If your Apple Watch and iPhone are on the same network but aren’t connected by Bluetooth, you can also do the following on Apple Watch without iPhone:

  Send and receive messages using iMessage
  Send and receive Digital Touch messages
  Use Siri

The watch is using the Wi-Fi settings from you paired iPhone to access the internet.  As stated above it can connect to networks you have set on the iPhone.  The Bluetooth will connect to the phone and pass data back and forth.

I own an Apple Watch, and it prefers using a direct connection to its paired iPhone for Internet functions (ie., Bluetooth tether) when the iPhone is in range (due to lower power consumption than Wifi). However, the Apple Watch is capable of certain supported functions via direct Wifi connection to known networks (ie., previously used networks) like iMessage, Wifi calling if it's been setup on the paired iPhone, Siri queries, if the iPhone is out of Bluetooth range or turned off. This creates a unique problem in that when the Apple Watch is barely within Bluetooth range, Wifi call quality is extremely poor (and worse than via direct Wifi calling). I wish there was a way to change connection priority or tell it to use Wifi when Bluetooth strength is low.  But I guess that's more user configurability than Apple typically allows.


Touch ID Unavailable After Sleep MacBook Pro I am using a 2016 MacBook Pro 15" (Model A1707). Whenever I put my computer on sleep, then wake it up, I find that I cannot use Touch ID to unlock my computer. The screenshot below shows the screen when I wake up the computer. How can I enable Touch ID after my computer is asleep? Thanks!

I messed with the sleep/screen saver settings and restarted and it seemed to have fixed my issue.


Bootcamp says Disk Could Not Be Partitioned on Catalina Version 10.15.2 I have macbook air 2015 on Catalina Version 10.15.2 .
So previously I had ran into this issue MacBook filesystem FFFFFFFF-FFFF-FFFF-FFFF-FFFFFFFFFFFF after deleting linux partition
 and thank god I fixed it but I was not able after that to boot into windows 10 it was entering in recovery screen with error code 0xc00000e. So I deleted bootcamp and tried to reinstall it. I download latest windows 10 64 bit iso file and when I tried to install it via bootcamp it says Disk Could Not Be Partitioned!  I tried running first aid from disk utility but it says that there are no problems. I just don't know what to do any help would be appreciated!

macbooks-MacBook-Air:~ macbook$ diskutil list
/dev/disk0 (internal, physical):
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *251.0 GB   disk0
   1:                        EFI EFI                     209.7 MB   disk0s1
   2:                 Apple_APFS Container disk1         250.8 GB   disk0s2

/dev/disk1 (synthesized):
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:      APFS Container Scheme -                      +250.8 GB   disk1
                                 Physical Store disk0s2
   1:                APFS Volume Macintosh HD - Data     145.4 GB   disk1s1
   2:                APFS Volume Preboot                 82.4 MB    disk1s2
   3:                APFS Volume Recovery                528.5 MB   disk1s3
   4:                APFS Volume VM                      1.1 GB     disk1s4
   5:                APFS Volume Macintosh HD            11.0 GB    disk1s5

macbooks-MacBook-Air:~ macbook$

The same issue with the latest Cataline 10.15.3 and two SSD Fusion Drive (internal 24Gb + 512Gb WD placed instead of HDD), made with command "diskutil resetFusion" which is related to Catalina or later OS.

Hello Apple.

If you happen to have a Fusion drive, this worked for me https://support.apple.com/en-gb/HT207584

Strange this is happening (to myself as well) on Catalina when Mojave's most recent update specifies it fixes this


Does the iPhone 4S generate a spark or detectable electric signal of any kind when receiving a call? In my spare time, I am a volunteer for the fire brigade. Yesterday I was attending a lessons about preventing fires, and we saw a movie about a lady fueling her car while receiving a call. And "boom"! The fuel, and later the car, exploded because her cell phone got a call. The teacher told us it was because her cell phone gave an electrical signal (a kind of spark) and by so light up the whole place.

Since I tend to carry my iPhone 4S in my pockets all the time, I'm concerned about the risk of entering a building filled with some gas. If I get a call when I'm in such a building, I'm afraid I won't be around to answer the call anymore. :)

So, the teacher told us there are special cell phones which are explosion proof. These phones don't generate a spark or detectable electric signal of any kind when receiving a call.

Is the iPhone 4S such a cell phone? In other words, is it safe to carry an iPhone 4S when entering a building filled with gas?

To cut it short: This assumption is false.

Cellphone are not able to cause high voltage sparks required to light gas. Probably only if short-circuited.

Mythbusters investigated this problem. Their answer was that such accidents were caused by static charge on the person, not by cellphones.

This is important to notice as
"Petrol has a low electrical conductivity. This can cause a charge of
static electricity to build up as it flows through a pipe."[1]
When both the petrol and the person are charged, there is a potential spark discharge in the gap between.

Edit:

A BBC news article mentioned that research has been conducted on the matter by Dr Adam Burgess of the University of Kent. The publication is called:
‘Phantom Risk: The Curious Case of Mobile Phones, Fire and Body Static,’ Health, Risk and Society 9 (1) 2007 ISSN: 1369-8575 and available here.
[1] The Australian Transport Safety Bureau has published a paper called 'Static Fires at Petrol Stations' which is publicly available for download.

The iPhone is not explosion proof.

There have been a number of reports of iPhone exploding, one such report details how an iPhone exploded on an Australian airline without any reason.

So hopefully that helps you out a bit.

Although I cannot confirm that this is due to exposure to gasses, they can explode.


Who makes compact backpacks specifically sized for Macbook Air 11/13" So I'm trying to skate this through as on-topic because I'm interested in items specific to the Air 11" or 13", rather than "what's a good laptop case". (I.e. third party hardware specific to Apple products.)

I'm guess a significant portion of those toting an Air bought it for the portability, which of course is immediately made irrelevant by stuffing it in a backpack with an inch of padding designed to hold a 15.4" beast. So my question is who makes a backpack sized to hold an Air without a lot of wasted space? That is, I'm talking about the laptop compartment itself, not the overall size of the bag.

I have a 13" MBA (bought in July 2011). I have the McKlein Montclare 15494 Small Netbook Laptop Case, and I love it! Here's a URL:

http://www.mckleinusa.com/15474S.html

Apologies though - not a backpack, more a messenger bag or briefcase sort of deal.

I own one in black. It exactly fits my 13" MBA, so obviously you'll have a little extra room if you've only got an 11". I like the amount of padding in the bag, and because it's on the thin side, it "encourages" me to keep my junk to a minimum.

FYI, I can slide my iPad 2 in next to my MBA, and that's about exactly how big the padded sleeve part is.

I have a proper backpack, slim & professional looking, that is perfect dimensions for a Macbook Air 13" & can hold a few other books & papers too, but is very lightweight.  Unfortunately it's not really built for laptops & is wearing out from the inside.  Worse, it's maker, Hobo International, doesn't seem to be making them anymore.  I've emailed them to complain, I'll let you know if they get back to it.  But it's really surprising no one thinks that there are business people who care about ergonomics / needing two straps.


Why is my /usr/local/bin only accessible by root user? Which rights to fix it? I recently wanted to use pod to update the path of a framework.

Cocoapods is installed and can be find here :

/usr/local/bin/

But surprise! It is set to root only access :

ls -l /usr/local
drwx------   504    wheel  bin/
drwxr-xr-x@  john   staff  include/
drwxr-xr-x@  john   staff  lib/
drwxr-xr-x   root   wheel  share/

So I can't use pod because in any case :

pod install realm

  heeeyy dude, you can't access pod cause you are not root .!.

sudo pod install realm

  heeeyy dude, you can’t use pod as a root! .!.

I feel that this folder shouldn't be set as 'root only' because:

It is in the env PATH of the usr
gem install pod in it?
http://www.tldp.org/LDP/Linux-Filesystem-Hierarchy/html/usr.html basically says :

  '/usr/local' is widely regarded as a good place in which to keep self-compiled or third-party programs.

I know Linux isn't a BSD but still, it doesn't look that much different no o.O

Finally here are my questions:

I searched and there is no user with the uid 504, is this suspicious?

(I checked it with ""dscacheutil -q user | grep 504"")

What are suposed to be the rights and owner on the folder?
Is there someone who had the same problem?
Any idea about why this happened?

The /usr folder is protected by System Integrity Protection (SIP) and owned by root, as are all of its contents, with the sole exception of /usr/local (and its subdirectories).

The root user is uid 0, not 504. The 500-series should be user- or app-created accounts. /usr/local/bin on my system is owned by my username "tubedogg" in group "admin", and has drwxrwxr-x as the permissions.

The /usr/local/ itself is owned by root wheel for me. But all folders that you might use as pods user bin include etc lib opt share var are owned by my user and admin group.

To change the ownership of a folder and files in it run:

sudo chown -R john:staff /usr/local/bin
chmod -R 755 /usr/local/bin


How can I set an external display (monitor) as the primary one? Currently the MacBook's display works as primary, so every application I open gets open on the 13" and I have to drag it to the 24". I also don't have access to the dock on my 24".

Is is possible to turn off the MacBook screen and use only the one attached via DVI?

(I've just connected my 24" HP LP2475w via Mini DisplayPort to DVI to my MacBook Pro 13", which works great except for this one thing.)

Under your System Preferences > Display, you've got this

Just drag the white bar to the other screen to set it as the main screen.

You might have to do that every time you reboot / reconnect the external screen.

MBP 13" Oct 2010
Plug in external monitor and close the mbp's lid


Possible to record audio output streaming from other apps? Looking to record any audio that streams on my device. Are there any apps that are capable of doing this for ALL audio? (Im not interested in radio station apps that record radio stations only).

I am willing to jailbreak the phone to make this work.

Running ios 10.2 on iphone6

I don't know of anything on the phone itself but getting audio out of an iphone and onto something that can record is possible.

Using AirPlay and Airfoil Satellite (or your Airplay receiver of choice) you can get the audio to your Mac. Then using Audio Hijack (as mentioned by Kalamalka Kid) on your Mac you can record it.

Not the most ideal setup but it works.

Yes you can, using Quicktime Player, with the possible exception of certain DRM'd apps like Netflix. See here for instructions: https://www.cnet.com/how-to/how-to-record-your-iphones-screen-and-audio-using-a-mac/


I have a Magic keyboard with the numeric keypad, how do i use it in bootcamp with windows 10? I got a wireless magic keyboard with the numeric keypad. I installed bootcamp using windows 10 and am unable to connect the keyboard. At this point all i can do is use it plugged in. How do i pair it over bluetooth to be used wirelessly.

When adding a bluetooth device in windows 10, i can see the keyboard paired, pressing a key changes the text to 'Connected' and then back to paired. This happens with every keystroke rendering it unusable. How do i fix this?

I'm writing this with my new Magic Keyboard on my Windows 10 (64 bit) PC. I connected with a Logitech 'Dual Mode' Bluetooth V4/BLE dongle, which I installed first. Note I do not have bootcamp (I don't even know what that is/for)

There are a few differences to a normal windows keyboard:
- ALT key renamed 'option'
- I have have to use the 'command' key for the Windows key
- BACKSPACE is named Delete (there's a separate forward Delete key too)

Apart from these it seems completely normal so far, supporting all other keystrokes like F2, Control-Home, Conttrol-ALT-Delete (i.e. Control-option-Delete)

The only niggle = I can't tell the current charge level of the rechargeable battery. But even if the battery gets too low I can just plug in the USB-Lightning charge cable provided, and keep typing while it's charging.

All these minor shortcomings are well and truly outweighed by the appearance and feel of the beautfully styled keyboard

Hope this helps ...


macOS Startup Manager is very slow and laggy I have a MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015) on the latest version of macOS Sierra (10.12.3 at the time of writing). Whenever I hold the Option key after turning on my Mac, it takes a long time (around 30 seconds) for Startup Manager to appear. When it does, it is extremely laggy. Cursor movements and arrow key presses take 10-15 seconds to register.

I have no external devices connected; I am using the trackpad and keyboard built into the laptop. I eventually plan to connect a USB drive to boot from, but I cannot get Startup Manager to work correctly even when only Macintosh HD is available.

I have already tried resetting the SMC and PRAM multiple times, which does not help. Also, I tried installing the rEFInd boot manager to see if it would work better. However, rEFInd is just as laggy as the default Startup Manager.

The only other person online to have the same problem posted this question:
OSX Startup Manager (Boot drive selection screen) slow/un-responsive in Macbook Pro (early 2015)

Unlike that person, however, running diskutil verifyvolume on my EFI volume comes back with no errors. Likewise, diskutil repairvolume did not solve my problem. I have no idea what to try next.

I am suffering from same issue since December.

This is a hardware error, unfortunately it is hard to prove it to apple care. They will try os reload, factory reset ... before they realize it is hardware error.

Same issue here, noticed it in FileVault, but then realized it is there even on Boot selection section or even Diagnosis section. Disabling FileVault won't solve the issue, it will just cover it up.

I wasted a lot of time with software sides of things, reinstalling OS and all. they all didn't help. It is a Hardware issue.

I realized I have this issue once I started using SD Card reader for storing my files and extending my 128gb MBP. If SD Cards goes in, even for 1 second, and then take it out, boot is going to be slow until I do a NVRAM reset. Apple care didn't find any issue first time but second time they admit there is a hardware issue in my Macbook and they replaced it. I will report back issue returned.

You need to bring it to Apple care, and describe the issue in detail. I had to print a A4 paper with a detailed description (told them issue happen when put in a sd card and then take it out) and screenshot of diagnosis page showing SD Card error in diagnosis boot page (because for some reasons, it was randomly showing that error and apparently when I give my Macbook for first repair, it passed test 100% successfully) Reception who receive my Macbook, she didn't really reflect things I told to her to technician. She even typed issue of my macbook as "Booth up slow", you get the idea.

There are many users like us. I guess there are many other users who have this issue but are not aware of it. they just think it is normal to wait 30 to 60 seconds for boot and they never use filevault or boot option menu. I have found some here, this are all from SAME underlying issue:

macOS Sierra FileVault enabled freezing at login
macOS Sierra boot problem related to Apple SD Card reader driver
macOS Sierra slow to accept password at login
Whenever I enable FileVault, OSX is super slow to boot. I never had this problem before and don't know what changed.
OSX Startup Manager (Boot drive selection screen) slow/un-responsive in Macbook Pro (early 2015)
OSX Boot drive selection screen is slow, un-responsive and takes forever to load in Macbook Pro (early 2015)

@laapsaap is right. I had the very same problem, and Sierra 10.12.4 solves it!


How to use the keyboard to drag and drop? My trackpad is broken so I can tap-to-click but i cannot drag and drop. This is really a problem when it comes to doing certain things.

Does anyone know how to program a sticky key to turn a click into a click-select that can then be dragged about?

I can't resize my browser or open window and I can't drag applications into the folder when installing etc.

free solutions only please.

A mid 2009 macbook-pro 13". 2.53 Ghz Intel Core 2 Due.

Running os lion (grudgingly).

Daniel Lawson provides a really useful and widely applicable solution in a comment above. It deserves its own "answer".

  Can you three-finger-drag for drag and drop? What hardware do you
  have? What version of the operating system? –  Daniel Lawson♦ Oct 3
  '12 at 17:35

I just used three-finger drag to select that text and then used the Cmd-C and Cmd-V for copying and pasting. That's all you're likely to need except in situations where an app requires you to move a switch or drag a visual object.


What is accessible to an attacker who has reset my administrator password? I understand that it is possible to reset the administrator password on a Mac, allowing someone with physical access to a machine to create a new password that gives them access to all files unlocked files remaining on the machine after the reset process.

But what else do they have access to? Specifically:

Are all user accounts still present?
Are all keychains still present, or are they reset or cleared as part of the password creation process?
If the keychains are still present, does the (new) administrator have access to the contents of existing keychains.
Are any files (other than keychains) erased or reset as part of the process?

I assume that FileVault protects against using this technique in an attack; would a firmware password confer any protection?

If someone has your administrator account, everything on the machine is accessible to them. People in IT Security circles say "Physical access = Total access".

Keychains can only be unlocked with the keychain password.  If an account password is changed/updated without being logged into the account AND having the relevant keychain unlocked, the keychain password doesn't change.

Meaning, someone could get access to your account perhaps, but not your keychain, without the original password.  The account and keychain passwords fall out of sync with one another.

FileVault protection similarly, will remain in place until unlocked using the correct password.  I don't believe having root access on the machine allows you to unlock the keychain or the file vault account without the relevant passwords.. that's the whole point.

Of course, theoretically a hacker with godlike skills, patience, and knowledge could manually edit the relevant passwd files to be whatever he/she wanted it to be (if they had root access), but the probabilities of this happening is somewhere between zero and nil.

I have gone through this recently with a friend's computer. Once the person has the Admin password, they can enable Root access. Then everything is available. I think that Root overrides even FileVault. (That's a question).


Transfer Video to iOS iMovie I have an iPad 2 running 5.0.1 and I want to transfer a video file from my iMac to edit on the iPad with iMovie. The movie was filmed on my friends iPhone 4S and I imported it to my iMac, then used iTunes file sharing to put it on my iPad. When I go to iMovie on my iPad and create a new project, there are no video files there for me to use, but the iPad says iMovie has 600MB worth of documents and data in the usage screen(I don't have any other clips in iMovie). Why can't I edit the video, and how should I transfer video in the future?

Bare in mind only footage shot with an iDevice can be edited on iMovie for iPad. That being the case, it's just a matter of finding the correct format.

Wired has dedicated a whole article to this specific matter.
Basically it comes down to convert the video to a specific MP4 with the H.264 codec. You can do this by following these easy steps.

Convert your movie to .mp4 on your Mac (if it isn't already in this format)
Convert your movie to an iMovie movie with the 264 codec
Use iTunes to transfer you movies to your iPad

Normally your files should appear in the iMovie project dashboard.

You could turn on photo stream on your mac and ipad (use the same apple id) and then transfer the video to the ipad. Then open it in iMovies on the ipad.


Is there a way to disable a Messages account via command line? I'd like to stop/start receiving SMS/iMessage via command line, to avoid having to go into system preferences.

Is there a way I can manipulate settings for Messages to enable/disable an account?

It turns out stopping was more logical than expected:

tell application "Messages"
     repeat with s in services
            set n to name of s
            log out s
     end repeat
end tell

It doesn't seem to work the other way around. I've tried and I've tried, and I can't get no satisfaction.

I dont know, but here is a list of all MacOS command-line commands: https://ss64.com/osx/

Nothing in this list explicitly answers your question. So I would assume there is not a way to do this from the command-line.


Need Mac Numbers & Pages for Mojave I have a 2010 MacPro running Mojave. I've been trying to buy, copy, or steal copies of Pages and Numbers for hours just so I can work on a client's Pages file.
Why is this so hard?

Running on Mojave, a quick test of deleting Pages reveals that I cannot download the latest version from the App Store's main pages, but if I go to the list of "Purchased" apps in my Account, I can download a compatible version.

If you haven't already purchased (for the sum of 0) the iWork apps, then you likely can't download them on older OSes. It's well worth downloading them now, for the future!

Run the App Store application, search for Pages and Get it.  You will need to use your Apple ID, but there is nothing to pay.


Can't connect to wireless network at home with OS X 10.5.8 I'm having trouble connecting to the wireless network at my home. My brother recently picked up a new wireless router and provided me with the password. When I locate the SSID and enter in the password he told me, it waits for a few seconds then says "Connection Failed."

I can connect to the wifi on my iPhone 4 but because I do a lot of work from my Mac running OS X 10.5.8, it's imperative that I can connect to the wifi on my laptop. I can connect to other wifi networks (in fact, I'm at a Starbucks using their wifi right now).

I don't think it has anything to do with my Mac, but if it does, can anyone provide any insight or solution?

If it's with the router, how can I configure it to allow me to connect with my Mac?

This issue can be caused by a SSID which contains special signs (e.g. - / ! : %)


Facebook app won't load newsfeed when using Wi-Fi on iPhone I am having a problem which has driven me mad for months. When I am connected to my home Wi-Fi the Facebook app's newsfeed won't update. If I turn Wi-Fi off and use the mobile 3G it works fine so I guess its something to do with my Netgear router.

I have an iPhone 4 on iOS 6 and my router is a Netgear N150.

Any ideas?

Here are a few suggestions I could think of off the top of my head

Restart your wifi radio (Settings > Wi-Fi > OFF. Leave off for 1 minute, then slide back to ON)
Reboot your phone
Reinstall Facebook app

Try those one at a time to see if any of them fixes your problem.

It might be your router. I had a n150 and it didn't work at all with my iPhone. I finally got another router which solved the problem for me.


How to downgrade iOS 11 beta to iOS 10 without PC? I have iPad and I recently installed iOS 11 beta 1 on my iPad. Now I see some battery issues and I want to downgrade to iOS 10.3.2. But I checked on the internet and shows that a PC is compulsory. I don’t have a PC.

It's impossible without a PC or a Mac to initiate the wipe and also host the reinstall image download and USB control during the downgrade.

In addition to the "computer" - you need an Apple tool like iTunes (Mac or PC) or Xcode or Apple Configurator (or a third party one like Ground Control) to reload the older OS, since there is no OTA bundle for downgrading.

you can use reiboot downgrade ios 11 to ios 10 on Mac.
ReiBoot Mac verison
http://download.cnet.com/Tenorshare-ReiBoot/3000-18546_4-76033925.html


What does it mean when it says "read" under an SMS in Messages? I have never seen the "read" tag before, however I have seen "delivered" and nothing. What does the "read" tag mean?

Delivered means that it's gotten to its destination. Read means that the user has actually opened the text in the Messages app.

It means the person you sent the message to has read it.


SSH using IPV6 getting error "No Route to Host" On My Mac Machine I am trying to ssh with ipv6 in my mac machine but I am getting error "No Route to Host". I can it successfully with ipv4.
Can anyone guide me please if it require any network setting or else?

I am using OS X 10.10.1 Yosemite.

Thanks!

If you want to perm a route in 10.10 Yosemite. here

You should create a quick script with

"#!/bin/bash"

sudo /sbin/route add -net x.x.x.0/24 xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx

save it in a path

chmod a+x the file

Then type this,..

sudo defaults write com.apple.loginwindow LoginHook /Path/To/Your/Script

POW .. Yosemite perm route with edit file .


Hard Drive doesn't show in Recovery Mode I was trying to go back to OS X El Capitan with Recovery Mode, but after agreeing to the T&C, it tells me to choose a HD where to install the update, but it doesn't show up. What can I do?
I'm currently running macOS 10.15.6 w/ my MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

EDIT: This is what the disk utility GUI and what the diskutil list shows.

'Going back' & 'update' are mutually exclusive terms.
You will need to re-format the drive to HFS+ first from Disk Utility. El Capitan cannot read or understand the APFS disk format that Catalina uses.
Your edit suggests you are still in Catalina & that your disk is currently APFS.
You will need to start from your external El Capitan boot medium [or from Internet Recovery] in order to be able to format your boot drive [you cannot format the drive you are booted from, for obvious reasons.]
Select the Physical disk in the left column [Apple SSD] & select Erase. Set to GUID/HFS Extended, Journalled.

You’re looking to downgrade to an earlier version of macOS. There are several ways of going about it. Be sure to read through the methods carefully before you start executing, as they involve erasing your disk, which is irreversible.
https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/downgrade-macos-version/


Mac does not automatically restart when power is re-applied after `shutdown -hu now` I want to have a Mac Mini automatically boot when power is applied, as I cannot conveniently reach its power button, because it resides inside an art installation, where the power will be shut down during the night. I thought it might be possible to use the "Start up automatically after a power failure" in the energy system settings for this, along with the -u parameter to the shutdown command, in order to safely bring the machine in a state where I don't have to fear data loss. According to the shutdown man page, the -u parameter seems to be what I need:

  -u: The system is halted up until the point of removing system power, but waits before removing power for 5 minutes so that an external UPS (uninterruptible power supply) can forcibly remove power. This simulates a dirty shutdown to permit a later automatic power on. OS X uses this mode automatically with supported UPSs in emergency shutdowns.

But shutdown -hu now does not work. On both Macs I tested it with (Mac Mini with 10.10 and a Mac Pro on 10.11), the machines still power off immediately, they do not wait for five minutes in the halt state, so that I don't have the time to power off the mains. Therefore, the autostart on power failure setting doesn't trigger, and I have to manually push the power button to make them boot again.

The NVRAM setting to power on when power returns has nothing to do with the shutdown command, so I wouldn't worry about the shutdown options and instead focus on the NVRAM settings for what to do when the machine senses a return of power.

If you don't have an actual UPS - I would get an internet enabled power switch like WeMo or other or just train staff to power cycle the hardware.

The setting to power on automatically is quite reliable in my experience, so you should only need that to recover from 95% or more of the power failure events you have. Also, kiosk machines generally just run apps and open files, so you don't have work that needs to be saved to disk. I would just let the power cut from the Mac and make sure the filesystem is journaled so that the restart is quick.

If you have an actual UPS - use the energy saver control panel to tell the OS to shut down N minutes before the power runs out and you will be well protected from data loss.

Here I have a server with storage attached so I'm having the shut down scheduled 10 minutes before the battery expires.  For a kiosk, I would disable all three sliders/check boxes for UPS or get a simple UPS like APS BGE70 that lacks USB port entirely and just gives you some time when people accidentally trip the power or a substation feeder shifts and your outage is a minute or so in length.

Found a workaround for "auto boot after power loss" on any OS, after few H/w tests, found that "BIOS"(or whatever they named it in APPLE) controlled by OSX OS - basically changing this setting under Power Saving - "Start up automatically after a power failure" to enabled and then wipe the local HDD and install anything you want that won't affect this setting(meaning it will remain and will power the box back on after power failure), and vise versa - removing this setting via OSX will cause Mac stop "Auto start after power failure" running no matter what OS.


Does restoring an iPhone from backup remove existing data from the iPhone? I want to restore an old backup onto my iPhone. Will that delete the data currently on my iPhone, or does my data get added to what’s in the backup?

Restoring an iPhone from backup will wipe all its contents, then replace everything with what’s in the backup.

Whatever data is on your iPhone now, but not in the backup, will be GONE after the restoration process.

I just did a restore and the data saved in the file sharing section of the applications was not removed so the accepted answer is wrong. It might have deleted the data if the app didn't exist before but I didn't try. The software version was not changed. As far as I can tell it just reset a bunch of settings.


Some Applications stay in Dock after closing After i cloes the Applications the Instances still be shown and can't be force closed.

Same with the Dock only if I kill my Dock in my Terminal it reduces the symbol to 1.

Also the processes don't show up in my activity monitor.

Would be great if anyone could help me!

I don't think it' malware. I have the same problem after installing 10.11.5.
I found a (not so nice) workaround:

When the app is still running: Save all changes and force quit the Application

When already quit the app: Open the Activity Monitor and force quit the Widowserver Process. You'll be logged out. Now restart the mac (don't just log in again) and you can use it without having the icons in the dock.

I think it's an 10.11.5 issue.

Right clicking on the Application's Dock icon, highlight over options, and unselect "Keep in Dock". You'll need to do this for all the Applications in Dock.

If you wish to have ONLY open applications in the Dock, here is a Terminal.app command you can run to change the preferences to show only open applications in the Dock.

defaults write com.apple.dock static-only -bool TRUE; killall Dock

to change back to normal replace TRUE with FALSE like so..

defaults write com.apple.dock static-only -bool FALSE; killall Dock

Just open terminal.app in your applications, copy and paste. This will reset Finder as well I believe, so finish any downloads first and any copying of files or moving to avoid interruption.

forgot to add: I'm not familiar with that specific program, but it also sounds as though you have a malware program. I suggest deleting the application entirely.

Edit: With the very little information given, I think you don't have all processes to be shown in activity monitor. By default only your user processes are shown. Those from Root user are not. If those GUI processes run by root are very dangerous and because you have multiple copies displayed on the dock, you must have multiple application copies across your files, I don't know of any other way multiple dock icons of the same application would display. This application looks to be acting out of control which is why I stated it may be malware. Best to securely delete all files for the application and reinstall a fresh copy correctly to halt the issues.


What does "when iMessage is unavailable" mean? In the settings for the iOS 5 Messages app there is an option to send messages as SMS "when iMessage is unavailable". Under what conditions is this the case? Is it merely the obvious (no data connection available or the iMessage server is down, or the message sits undelivered for a time), or is it more subtle (for example, the service simply not having had time to confirm that the recipient has iMessage enabled, or that the recipient's device cannot be contacted at the time of sending)?

Phrased another way: what are the conditions under which an (intended) iMessage wold go undelivered, and are there other events that would cause a message to be delivered as an SMS?

It means either

when the device is unable to determine if a message has been delivered over the iMessage transport successfully. When a successful delivery occurs you see a little 'Delivered' notification below the message in the history, and after a period you should have the option to resend as an SMS
or the recipient has no registration with the iMessage server to indicate that it could use the iMessage transport and will use SMS instead.

Okay peeps, listen up! iMessage is an IOS 5+ ONLY software that sends sms texts between 2 or more IDevices that BOTH have IOS 5+. It uses your cellphones internet connection to do this. If iMessage is enabled, and you send a message to another user that has IOS 5 or IOS 5.1, the message will show up on your screen colored blue instead of the usual green color of texts (Note: This is a good way to check if iMessage is working, as well as a way to check if the person you are texting has IOS 5)

Now for the perks of iMessage. When using iMessage, all texts sent using this feature are completely free through a deal Apple made with AT&T, Verizon and Sprint (Altough Sprint is like a secondary company, so if you are using google voice, and have a different number on Google Voice then your actual cell number, iMessage MIGHT be disabled) so if you bought an IPhone, and are using a SIM card from a different company, well, tough luck I guess. There IS a reason why only SOME companies sell Iphones you know.

When using iMessage, if you leave the screen on the messages app, waiting for the person to reply, it kind of has a Skype-looking feature, that whenever the person is typing, you will actually get a "dot dot dot" (...) on the bottom left, right above the keyboard.

The option in settings to send messages as SMS "when iMessage is unavailable" simply means if you are using the Sprint/Google Voice combo mentioned above, or if the person you are messaging does NOT have the IOS 5+ software (meaning they can NOT receive iMessages) then the phone will send a normal text message (carrier rates apply).

Hope this helped out. If I figure out anything else, I'll edit this later.


Macbook Pro not sleeping when left inactive with lid open My Macbook Pro Running 10.8.5 isn't sleeping when left alone. System prefs has everything set up to sleep but it isn't working. I used the command pmset -g assertions in terminal and I get

Assertion status system-wide:
   PreventUserIdleDisplaySleep    0
   PreventSystemSleep             0
   PreventUserIdleSystemSleep     1
   InternalPreventDisplaySleep    0
   ExternalMedia                  0
   UserIsActive                   0
   ApplePushServiceTask           0
   BackgroundTask                 0

Listed by owning process:
  pid 386(Google Chrome): [0x000000010000021a] 22:54:00 NoIdleSleepAssertion named: "WebRTC has active PeerConnections."
  pid 3791(helpd): [0x0000000c00000d34] 11:01:38 BackgroundTask named:
"com.apple.helpd.sdmbuilding"

So I'm assuming that this has to do with Google Chrome but I'm not sure what specifically. Anyone have any suggestions?

I resolved this problem. If anyone else runs into it in the future just go to chrome settings and then go to advanced settings and reset settings. It just brought me to default. Something in my settings was causing it. Honestly have no idea what it was.

I had similar problem on Win10 and my findings may be pertinent.  I battled the problem where webRTC PeerConnections were preventing auto-sleep. In my experimentation, simply closing the tab that created the webRTC connections wasn't sufficient; I had to actually shut down chrome completely, i.e. exit all tabs. Then I found a more preferable work-around: instead of closing the tab that has webRTC connections, navigate that tab to a different web page or site which doesn't use webRTC. That will close out the webRTC connections and it isn't necessary to completely exit chrome.
Note that this assumes that you've figured out which web site/page is causing the webRTC connections to be created. To do this, run "powercfg -requests" before and after opening tabs until you discover the culprit. For me it was the search results page on slickdeals.net website.


How can I make my microSD card writable? I have a macbook pro running Snow Leopard.  I have Tuxera NTFS drivers.

I have a microSD card, in an adapter, in the slot.  The "lock" slider is in the "unlocked" position.

'Get Info' tells me the drive is formatted to FAT16.  The permissions panel tells me that I can only read.

Disk utility tells me it's not writable.  (It does this for the volume and also for the higher level Apple SD Card Reader Media)

What do I need to do to change permissions to turn this card writable?

I had a PNY 32gb SD Card. Spent hours trying to find out how to make it re-writeable. Well the answer is simple. The slider on the left side of the card must be "up" (the read-writable position) BUT ALSO the tiny "notch" opposite the slider must be covered with a piece of tape. It's really the opposite of the old video tapes, which we had to break the tab if we did not want anything recorded over it. But I can guarantee you I've bought a lot of SD cards and have NEVER had a card that was write-protected out of the package that required me to do anything but raise the slider on the left side.

I had no clue why my sd card somehow got turned onto unwritable. I filled it up to 8/ 16 gigs n decided, OK I really need to fix this card now!

I finally recalled some cards can lock data. After a few flips n tests with the switch slides. I'm not finnaly able to delete again.

So simple.
Built in lock mechanism on the actual card!

I tried reformating, no availablity, moving from card to desktop, changing options in each folder. But it was there the whole time.


Avoid data plan being added onto AT&T iPhone 3GS I gave my jailbroken iPhone to my parents to use.  They don't need the data plan however AT&T keeps adding on the data plan since they detect it being a smartphone.  Is there any way to avoid the plan, with this being a jailbroken iPhone?

You'll have to change the IMEI to avoid the charge. There is simply no other way. As soon a phone connects to a network, the IMEI is registered and that's what carriers like AT&T use to determine if your device is a smartphone.

You can use ziphone to change the number but there's a lot of hurdles and provisos. As far as I know, that's the only JB program capable of doing it. Instructions are outline here: http://m.iclarified.com/entry/index.php?enid=657

The Motorolla RAZR's IMEI: 358472042445412

Another alternative is to go to T-Mobile which don't have the Draconian charge.

I have no idea if that might work or not, being in Europe, but here's my suggestion.

Supposing the data plan is activated as soon as a data connection is initiated, it might be enough to disable data connections from the iPhone's preferences.

But, and it is a big but, cell phone providers can identify your terminal even though its data connection is off (usually for innocent reasons like checking your phone is correctly configured). Since the contract plainly states that using an iPhone, or another smartphone (without mentioning the fact that said smartphone's data communication might be switched off) entitles AT&T to charge for data, my suggested solution might not work at all.

But it might be worth a try...


terminal sudo or su asks for password in Mountain Lion OS X I don't know the root password on my system and I'm trying to start Apache.

$ sudo apachectl start

WARNING: Improper use of the sudo command could lead to data loss
or the deletion of important system files. Please double-check your
typing when using sudo. Type "man sudo" for more information.

To proceed, enter your password, or type Ctrl-C to abort.

Password:
Sorry, try again.
Password:
Sorry, try again.
Password:
Sorry, try again.
sudo: 3 incorrect password attempts

------- or -----------

$ sudo su apachectl start

(same results)

My user account is an admin account. This is a refurbished MacBook Pro - new to me.

This is standard behaviour for a Mac, even if the user is in the Administrators group. The password is that of your user account, not the root account (which is typically disabled by default). OS X asks for your password in a number of situations, not just when using sudo.

If you've forgotten your user account password, you can reset it following Apple's instructions.

You should always know the root pw of your machine. If not, you can reset it with the installation disks.

But what am I confused about is if you can use your admin user ID and password to override it?


Is it possible to remember a wifi network in iOS 6 without automatically connecting to it? Once in a while I need to use my iPhone 4 for work related tasks that require a lot of bandwidth. When doing this I will connect to the wireless network at work, do what I need to do, and then disconnect so that any personal activity goes over 3g. Currently my choices are to either leave wifi off while at work, only turning it on when I need to do work tasks, or join the work network every time I need to do work tasks, then forget the network. Turning wifi off is annoying since I have to remember to turn it off before I get to work, and then turn it back on after I leave work. Constantly joining the network is also annoying since I need to enter my username, password, and proxy information. Is there a way to have my iPhone remember my work network so I can manually join it without entering all my information, but not connect to the work network unless I force it to? I haven’t found anything obvious on either the phone or the iPhone configuration assistant so I’m pretty sure the answer is no but it can’t hurt to ask.

As you can see from this screenshot, iOS will automatically join any available known network based on signal strength. As of right now, it is not possible to do what you are asking with iOS.

Yes...

Add the network to your phone.
Then touch the "i" next to the network and change "Auto-Join" to off.
Turn off wifi and then turn it back on.

You will notice that you are now on the cell network.  However, if you touch the wifi network that you just updated (in settings), you will then log into it.

Then can repeat...to return to the cell network and turn off the work wifi network (while not forgetting it)...simply turn off wifi and turn it on again and then you will notice that once again you are utilizing the cell network and not your work network...and the wifi network is not forgotten and can be used again simply by touching it (in settings).


Finder won't remember window size in Yosemite In previous versions there was a way to set the window configuration as default. But now in Yosemite they seem to have got rid of this option.

There is however a way to make it remember for a while with option + drag a new (untouched) finder window. But this won't last long. After a while or a restart the window is back to stock settings.

Is this a bug? Because I can't recall experiencing this in previous versions of OS X. If not, is there a way to set a default window configuration?

I don't know any way to change the default window size, but you can use a script like this to reset the properties of windows manually:

tell application "Finder"
    if number of Finder windows is 0 then return
    tell Finder window 1
        set toolbar visible to false
        set sidebar width to 0
        set statusbar visible to false
        set current view to column view
        set bounds to {960, 22, 1920, 1076}
        tell its column view options
            set shows icon to false
        end tell
    end tell
end tell


Is there any virtual machine which works on a PPC Mac running 10.4? Is there any virtual machine which works on a PPC (non-Intel) Mac 10.4? I am killing myself finding a virtual machine for Mac 10.4. Everything that I found needs an Intel Mac.

The primary solution for PowerPC Macs was Microsoft's now-defunct Virtual PC.  It was discontinued several years ago, so you'll really have to do some digging to find a copy.  (Be warned -- it runs slow as molasses.  You'd probably be better off buying a cheap PC.)

There's also Q emulator, which supposedly runs on PowerPC, but I have never tried it.

Om my PPC PowerMac G3 I did have one installed the copy from my friend however the machine had a kernel issue due to trying to install a modified OS X Leopard and I had to restore the disk. Although I cannot remember the name I can assure you there is one and this one worked with XP which surprised me considering that XP is Intel and above XXDD.


Install oracle 12c database in OS X Yosemite without Virtual Machine Can we install Oracle 12c Database without using any Virtual Machine ? Currently I have installed it in VMWare Fusion but it is consuming a lot of power.

Oracle Database 12c doesn't run on OS X, so I guess you'll have to stick to a VM running a supported OS (see http://www.oracle.com/technetwork/database/enterprise-edition/downloads/index.html):


My new MacBook Pro won't keep its Wi-Fi connection Here's the deal... I have relatively brand new Macbook pro, I purchased it in late June 2014 and right now it's November 2014. Recently, my Macbook will not keep an internet connection to wifi. There's no problem with the router; I've had no trouble with my iPhone or PC's or even other Macbooks in this house. Additionally, I've noticed the same problem with my computer in other networks, but I can't offer too much information about that, because 99% of the time I have my computer in my house.

More details:

There is no pattern for this loss of connectivity. I cannot stay connected more than 15 minutes, and it fluctuates between about 10 and 2 minutes, usually. The time does not change with my activity or lack thereof on the internet.
I have tried things like clearing all my wifi passwords and networks, changing my location in network settings, turning off the wifi connection, restarting, and all of these things separately and together. Nothing changes.
I first noticed this about a week or two after upgrading to OSX Yosemite (10.10). But it was nothing simultaneous and I've heard of similar problems on other OS's, so I personally can't point my finger to that problem.
My Airport Utility is 6.3.4 (634.17) and the card is AirPort Extreme (0x14E4, 0xF5).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I bought this computer to last me 5 years as I study abroad and complete 4 years of college. Right now, I just really need some assurance that I didn't spend 8 months of paychecks on an $1800 aluminum frisbee.

Went to Apple Store today (Dec. 27 2014).also family members have iPads, other Mac Pros, iPhones…NO NETWORK PROBLEMS except with single Mac Pro .Apple absolutely no help…..blames the network (which it is not)….and said, work it out with Internet Provider or if you don't believe us pay for tech help (as unit is out of warranty)…That, itself was an amazing experience.If anyone finds an answer I would appreciate the help as well.

Are you on OS X 10.10.1? It claims to fix some wifi issues present in 10.10.0.

If your software is up to date, you can try the following steps. They worked perfectly on my early 2011 MBP running Yosemite. Source

Turn off Wi-Fi from the menu bar.
From Finder, hit Command+Shift+G (or click Go > Go to Folder) and enter the following path:

/Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/

Within this folder, locate and select the following files. (Note: You may not actually have all of them. I know I didn't have all five files on my computer, but I deleted all the ones I had and the fix still worked!)

com.apple.airport.preferences.plist
com.apple.network.identification.plist
com.apple.wifi.message-tracer.plist
NetworkInterfaces.plist
preferences.plist

Move them to a backup folder, like on your desktop. The goal is to delete them from the SystemConfiguration folder (so make sure they don't exist in that folder any more!) to force OS X to recreate them, but you'll want to be able to put your original files back in there in case something goes wrong.
Reboot your computer.
Turn on Wi-Fi from the menu bar. Good luck!

Your product is still under Apple warranty.

Best course of action is to bring it to Apple Store for service.

It sounds like hardware problem anyway.

Meanwhile you could try some troubleshooting, like start in safe mode and see if it works.

Next try logging in as another user to see if it is your user profile related.

Also you could delete your airport plist in your user Library file and reboot.

Added Dec. 27 2014:

Run a continuous Ping to see if it keeps its connection.

In Terminal type ping -i 60 google.com
 and let it run for a hour. (it will send a ping to Google every 60 seconds).

The continuous Ping will do following:

Test your connection to your router, test your connection from router to Google (which is actualy testing your Internet provider). The result will give you some inside on what is going on.


Location in Weather Widget is Wrong The location in the weather widget of the notification center is permanently wrong since September 2014. I was in Ampus for vacation. But today I'm at home and the location is not changing!

If I click on the i in the upper right corner, I can't change it manually.

Does somebody know a solution?

Go System Preferences > Security & Privacy > Privacy [tab]
Uncheck and recheck 'Weather' and it's back to normal

See below img

Press the "i" icon to the right of "Weather", then drag the vacation spot down, so it is no longer at the top of the list. Then delete it.

If you don't drag it down from the top of the list, it reappears in about ten or fifteen seconds.


After update to OS X Server 5.0.3 ports 80 and 443 closed The title pretty much sums it up.  I just updated to the new OS X Server (5.0.3) today and when I try to go to localhost, 127.0.0.1, I am getting connection refused.  When I load into OS X Server program, and go to the tab on the left Websites, it says Server website on port 80

Not reachable, this website is not available over the Internet

The same goes for port 443.  I ran curl, telnet and these ports are indeed closed.

How can I enable these ports again?  I can't find where to do it.

Not sure if it matters but I also updated Xcode, and Command line tools today as well.

I haven't seen similar and I have server 5.0.3 running on both 10.11 and 10.10 and those ports are open with no changes needed by me.

I would start with checking your Access for defaults on the server level and perhaps making a change to see if it propagates.

Then check the particular service that is running. port 80/443 can be opened for Profile Manager, Xcode, Wiki or Web Server so you might want to check them all before going to the logs to look and see if there is an error message.

Best answer would be to move away from $20 products.

Not to be too snarky though, because I too came here looking for the fix to something that "just works."

10.10.5 with Server 5.04 upgrade. Was working fine under 5.03.

Not down with the whole "torch it and start again" abundance of answers, thus the snark.


How to move all photos from iPhone to iPad? I would like to move all photos from iPhone 5s to iPad Pro 10.5. I want to move them, not copy or sync. Photos in result should be stored on iPad and deleted from iPhone.
I've read this article - https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201313 -

iCloud Photo Library - looks like it will use my iCloud storage. I don't want to upload my photos there and the storage there is relatively small.
Manual approach with iTunes - it will require to have a copy of all photos on my Macbook (which I don't want to do - I hate how Apple store/structure photos).

Is there any other way to achieve what I want?
Surely, it should be exactly the same file as shoot on iPhone - the same file size, the same exif data (no recompression!).

use xender to send photos and if you not have xender open recovery and backup user data  and on ipad open recovery and select the backup in restore user data


Could files downloaded from Youtube and Tumblr harm Mac? I'm putting old files to fresh Mac and on one external drive, there is bunch of video files I downloaded from Youtube and Tumblr at one point few months ago.

Would it be safe to put them to fresh Mac or could those files be harmful? There didn't seem to be anything bad with them before, but as this is fresh Mac I'm more careful now.

Should I keep them away from fresh Mac just in case?

Well there are two points to this.

A.) there is a question of whether or not the files themselves contain any malicious code, which is hypothetically possible, but not likely. Owlswipe's comment is not correct in saying you cannot download files from YouTube, you can do so both through YouTube Red, as well as downloader extensions (which by the way are not illegal).

All a YouTube downloader extension does is use a program (often times wget, or something similar) to make a copy of the video file that is referenced in the html for that video's page. While it is possible for a downloader extension to infect that video file, it is quite unlikely for it to happen in practice. As far as files from Tumblr go you can probably safely assume the majority of posters on Tumblr do not have the knowledge how, or a reason to inject malware into a picture they are posting. Also seeing as both of these sites use HTTPS (Secure HyperText Transfer Protocol) it would not be possible for someone else to slip malware into either the file as you were downloading it or the page when you were connecting. Though there is always technically the possibility that their severs could be hijacked, it is very unlikely that it happened during the specific time you were downloading files. Which brings me to the second point.

B.) Macs run macOS, which is built on Unix. Unix is very secure, and generally hard to infect with malware. While this does not mean you should stop caring about keeping your computer safe (because it is still possible for a Mac to get infected), as long as you don't enter your password into random prompts saying a program you didn't launch wants to modify your system you should be fine. Typically it is only Windows that is vulnerable to the type of attacks used by malware that is contained in an image or video file, and it is because of the way Windows handles both security access and multimedia with a connected system.

All in all your Mac should be fine if you move your older files to it. Unless you know for sure that someone had hijacked the YouTube or Tumblr servers on the day you downloaded the files, you don't realistically need to worry about it getting infected by them. With that said always be careful when running programs you download from the internet, even on a Mac, as it is easier for malware in a program to infect any system than it is for malware in a video or image file.


How can I do text-to-columns in Numbers? I've got a column where each cell in the column contains two different pieces of data separated by a known delimiter ", ". How can I split each cell in this column around the delimiter?

Given:

COLUMN1
-------
ABC, 123
FOO, 666
ROFL, 411

I want

COLUMN1    COLUMN2
-------    -------
ABC        123
FOO        666
ROFL       411

You can also replace the delimiters with tabs:

Copy the cells and paste them to a new TextEdit document.
Replace ", " with tab. You can insert a tab by pressing option-tab.
Copy and paste the text back to Numbers.

Copy the data to a text editor and save it as mydoc.csv .  In numbers, open mydoc.csv.


Can I remove battery while my iPhone 4s is still on? I've had this annoying problem with my phone that has happened a few times now. Basically it just totally freezes. My top button is broken, so I can't turn the phone off using that. My assisted touch no longer works, because the screen is pretty much completely frozen.

In the past the only way I've been able to really deal with this problem is by draining the battery and then plugging my phone in to turn it on. This seems to reset it and then it works again. In order to drain my battery I can either ask Siri questions (but unfortunately this also stops working after a while...plus it's annoying as hell), or play music from my iTunes. Playing music from my iTunes does the trick, but it usually takes almost 24 hours to completely drain my battery. Suggestions on draining faster are appreciated...

For today though, I have my first day of work tomorrow and it just went out. I kind of really wanted to have a functional phone for my first day, so I'm a little more desperate. I'm wondering if it would be okay to remove the battery/unplug it and put it back in while my phone is in the frozen state. Obviously the whole phone isn't frozen since it can play music, but the screen and all buttons just don't work. Could this break my phone? Do I have a pretty good chance of nothing bad happening? Thanks lemme knowww.

It should be possible to perform a reset of the phone by holding the 'home' and 'power' buttons for ten seconds. That should cause the phone to reboot.

If you can't do this (e.g. broken power button), then I don't see why removing the battery would not cause the phone to be shut down.

I don't see why it would cause any lasting damage, at any rate.

I had the same problem a few hours ago. Removing and placing the battery seems to fix the problem. Not sure how long though, but it did helped.


How do I share a Wi-Fi connection via a Wi-Fi hotspot? This question is an extension of this question. While my answer did answer the question, there was one part that wasn't answered: how do I share a Wi-Fi connection via a Wi-Fi hotspot?

You can't "share" a Wi-Fi connection via a Wi-Fi hotspot.

What is misleading everybody is the inapropriate use of the technical
term of sharing when the function we are talking of is a redistribution.

When 2 PC are connected on the same Wi-Fi hotspot they are truly
sharing the same connection: they are using the same Wi-Fi channel,
they are sharing the router IP public address.

When you start up InternetSharing within System Preferences > Sharing
you are not starting a sharing, but the redistribution of a main network access toward a secondary network access. On this secondary network access,
you are acting as an access router. You are distributing IP private
addresses.
On your primary network access you have a public IP address, on your secondary network access, you have a private IP address, and you translate the traffic IP addresses from the
public side toward the private side and the other way around.
To be able to perform this redistribution of IP traffic coming
from your primary network access toward the same physical access
your OS should be able to present you this physical interface as 2
differents virtual interfaces, typically en1 and en2.

MacOS X doesn't provide such a virtualisation function.

You can't redistribute your Ethernet connection toward your Ethernet
connection.
You can't redistribute your Wi-Fi connection toward
your Wi-Fi connection.

Connectify (on Windows 7) is simply selling a standard function of Windows which permit to create 2 virtual Wi-Fi interfaces on top of
one physical one (see: Wi-Fi hotspot for Windows 7). Then Windows
redistribute the network access of the primary Wi-Fi toward the second one.

If you mean on a computer, you can use Connectify. I use it it work it's great if you are connected to WiFi; your computer acts a router to all your other devices. If you mean a hotspot on your iPhone go to Settings > Network > Turn Cellular Data On and then enable the hotspot.


Trying to find file location of Mac Mail Smartboxes so that I can run automatic email archiver I'm currently working on a MacBook late 2008 with OS X Yosemite 10.10.3.
I use Mac Mail for my email.

I have created smart mailboxes to collect together emails that relate to a project number.
When the project is complete I want to be able to archive the emails into PDFs and store them on Dropbox.

I have purchased Email Archiver for the purpose.
Email Archiver needs the source folder destination and I can't find the smartbox location. I have looked in Library/Mail/V2/MailData and can see the SmartMailBoxes.plist but I can't see folders relating to specific smartmailboxes.

Anyone got any suggestions about how I can achieve this?
Is what I want to do possible?

The smart mailboxes aren't real mailboxes—they're just filters stored in Mail preferences. You can't find the location of the smart mailbox because it's not actually stored separately on disk.


iPhone 5 screen does not activate after a phone call One of the permanent features on an iPhone turns off the screen (display and the touch receptors) when during a phone call you press the screen against your ears and cheek. The screen would almost instantaneously turn itself completely "on" when the phone would move away from the cheek and ears.

This at least was the case before iPhone 5. On my iPhone 5, the screen sometimes does not turn off or turn back on. I can confirm that iOS6 has nothing to do with this --my old iPhone 3GS on iOS6 does not face this problem.

Following the recommendations of this post, I went to the Apple Store but they just replaced my iPhone 5 when I demo'd the problem to them. The new iPhone 5 unfortunately has the same problem --even with factory settings.

Does anyone know of a way to solve this problem or am I just unlucky to get two defective iPhone 5s in a row and should try my luck again?

P.S.:- I am not using any cases, covers, screen coats or any other accessories.

Sadly - you might need to take it back. The proximity sensor is a small part and if it doesn't sense that your head/ear/face has moved away from the receiver slot - the screen will not light up again.

You can save yourself a trip by backing it up (yet again) and restoring it in iTunes  - but it seems you have already ruled that out.

One thing I have seen in practice is that some people's ears have openings large enough for the proximity sensor to sense the space when the phone is pressed next to their ear as actually being away from an object.

Again, it's often best to lie the phone flat on the table and call some sort of automated help system and use a pencil eraser or your finger to test how and where your particular sensor is sensitive. Once you've spent a handful of minutes discovering how narrow the beam is and exactly how many mm the range is to engage and disengage the sensor, can you take it in for service and know the unit you have is working according to specifications.

In my case neither auto brightness nor raise to speak had nothing to do with the issue. I just tried turning them off and the problem was still there.

What I finally did was to turn off the video function of an app that I downloaded from Cydia (vWallpaper2) and which may have had a conflict with the proximity sensor. Result: iPhone 5 is back to normal, sensor is working again!


Can't remove unknown symbol from menu bar I have this symbol in my menu bar, I don't know where it came from. I can't remove it by using Cmd drag, whenever I move the mouse over it the mouse turns into the spinning rainbow wheel. Can anyone help please?

This is the icon for an old version of Adobe Application Manager or Adobe Updater. It wouldn't show up in the standard Force Quit dialog, so I would recommend the following steps:

Open Activity Monitor, either by searching in Spotlight (Command-Space) or opening it from /Applications/Utilities/Activity Monitor.
Search for "adobe".
Select each relevant result and click the "X" octagon in the top left, then confirm with the Force Quit option.
Reopen Adobe Application Manager or Adobe Updater, and use it to update or uninstall the two pieces of Adobe software which need to be updated.

I'd start by going to the Apple menu and selecting "Force Quit". Apps that are hung up or unresponsive usually show up in red when it lists the running apps. If an app does show up, select it and hit "Force Quit". This method will tell you the name of the app and stop the beach balling...


Repairing an iPhone screen I've got a broken screen on my iPhone 4.  Does anyone have any hints, suggestions, or products that you have used to repair your broken screen?  Is there anything different about the iPhone 4 vs other iOS devices (due to the Gorilla Glass)?

I would suggest the iFixIt kit and guide. It's gonna be expensive since unlike of the  the previous versions iPhone, on iPhone4 you can't just change the glass without the changing LCD..

You probably have your IPhone fixed or replaced by now, but maybe others will find this useful.

I faced the same problem last Sunday - IPhone 4 glass shattered in thousand places after being dropped on the floor. We used iFixYourI to replace the screen assembly - they have a location in Boston, and it only took 20 minutes + about $130. On iPhone4 only the entire glass + digitizer + LCD assembly can be replaced. I would suggest googling "iphone 4 screen replacement" to see your local outlets first; if nothing is available nearby iFixYourI or others will still accept your phone by mail; Finally, if you want to DIY  then screen assemblies can now be purchased now for less than $100.

Hope this helps.


Can not boot from USB to make a clean install of Yosemite I have a MacBook Pro 13' retina from April 2013. Yesterday I wanted to do a clean install of Yosemite. I formatted my USB as Mac OS Extended (Journaled) and made the partition to be a GUID table partition.

Then I run this command to copy the bootable installation files of Yosemite to the USB:

sudo /Applications/Install\ OS\ X\ Yosemite.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/Untitled --applicationpath /Applications/Install\ OS\ X\ Yosemite.app --nointeraction

Everything went fine and to be sure I verified with Finder that the installation really was in the USB and not corrupted.

Then I rebooted my MacBook Pro, held the Options Button to get into the boot menu but there my USB wasn´t listed, only the harddrive and the recovery partition. I also tried the other USB port but id did not help. I have googled a lot of this issue but I haven´t found anything that helped. I have also tried the whole procedure of formatting the USB and putting the installation files 3 or 4 times now.

After some hours of tries to boot the USB I gave up.
What I did instead was to open Disk Utilties (from my recovery partition) and format the harddrive, then install Mountain Lion and then make the upgrade to Yosemite. But that is not a clean install.

Any ideas why I could not boot from the USB?

I had the same problem. You have to drag the file from finder into terminal to get the official name of the installer. The end result is something like /Applications/Install OS\  X\ Yosemite.app

At least that is what worked for me.

Hope that helps.

I just got the same problem - I only had my hard drive and recovery. So I unplugged the USB and plugged it in again with then boot screen still up and it appeared!

Someone call the IT Crowd!!


Can Dual Link DVI do 4K at 60Hz? I've got a 4K monitor attached via Dual Link DVI. It does 4K, but only at 30Hz.

It does 60 Hz up to 2560x1440; anything above that is 30Hz.

Is that a limitation of DVI?

A single dual-link DVI connection can deliver up to 2560 × 1600 at 60 Hz. Achieving 4K at 60Hz requires two dual-link DVI cables, or DisplayPort 1.2 or HDMI 2.0.

So, yes, as you put it, that's a limitation of DVI.

I have a Dell 3007wfp-hc monitor using DVI-D dual link 2560X1600 native and am on a ASRock z68 Extreme4 Gen3 / 32GB RAM/ i7 2600k oc to 4.4GHz. I have 2 X ASUS Strix GTX 980 SLI enabled with DSR selected. most of my games are running  3840X2400 at 60fps minimum and the few that dip below 60 fps don't go below 40.

My gaming platform is not supposed to be able to run 3840X2400. Obviously the reviewers are telling us something about a compelling need to upgrade to achieve a quality 4k gaming experience. What it is may not be the whole story since my experience on a 5 year old platform clearly are not exceptional beyond the fact that I am using factory OC video cards and have a modest OC on my Sandy Bridge. OS is windows 10.


Keyboard button backtick/tilde become section symbol after replacement I have a MacBook Pro (mid-2012) with a US keyboard layout, but after a keyboard replacement I noticed my backtick/tilde key is now a section § symbol.

After some googling, I found the Karabiner app. Yes it can remap the button but I felt that my OS (Sierra) became very slow, and I don’t want to rely on an app just for remap a single key.

Has anyone experienced this issue before? I think maybe the technician installed a different kind of keyboard (maybe a UK one) instead of US.

Note: I’ve called the service center and they will get back to me next week.

for me it was a matter of configuring the keyboard through Settings -> Keyboard and then "recognising" again "unrecognised keyboard" (i.e., my plain keyboard which was plugged in all the time) and then setting its type to US (ANSI) instead of European (ISO).

The UK keyboard does have a § key where the ~ should be.

This probably means they selected the wrong layout (for whatever reason). If you do have a US Layout keyboard, just go into System Preferences and select the correct one for your keyboard:

If it doesn't show up, click the "plus" button and add in the US keyboard layout.


On macOS Sierra Airplay is always "Looking for Apple TV" Just upgraded to macOS 10.12.1 Sierra and the mirroring display options keeps oscillating between: "Looking for Apple TV" and "Off".

In preferences i have turned AirPlay Off. But it keeps looking for AppleTV.
As recommended in an earlier discussion i tried:

sudo chmod 000 /System/Library/CoreServices/AirPlayUIAgent.app/Contents/MacOS/AirPlayUIAgent

but it gave an error:

chmod: Unable to change file mode on AirPlayUIAgent: Operation not permitted

It looks like Sierra always wants to keep connecting to Apple TV - big nuisance. Any other ideas to turn this auto feature off?

I was having the same issue. It started occurring when my external speaker tried automatically connecting to the device. Turning off bluetooth entirely solved the problem for me.


Using an iPad for doing web development and programming The iPad is my preferred computing device when I'm on the go, be it commuting or traveling. Sometimes I've got a Bluetooth keyboard with me, and sometimes I don't. So this may be crazy, but I would like to use my iPad for full-fledged web development and programming, and want I to know what my options are.

Cloud9 seems to be nearly perfect for this in concept except for a fatal flaw: the web interface does not fully work with iPad browsers Safari or Chrome. You cannot, for example, double click to open files.

What other options do I have? Ideally I would like to have command line access to my editor of choice (Vim), and be able to use web debugging tools like the developer tools in Chrome.

If you're just looking for a straight text editor, Textastic has a lot of nice features.

For full-fledged web development, check out Diet Coda. It has built-in SSH terminal, SFTP, a great text editor, etc.

I think GoCoEdit - The Remote Code and Text Editor is a great alternative Code Editor for iPhone and iPad.


Incomplete FTP transfers with Yosemite (Transmit & FileZilla) I'm having weird issues when uploading files via FTP. I'm not entirely sure, but I think I never observed this problem before using OS X 10.10:

File uploads via FTP in both FileZilla and Transmit are often and non-reproducibly incomplete. Text files just end somewhere in the middle of a line, yet both FTP clients report successful transfers. The next time I try uploading a file it might either just work or it might be chopped at a different position. It seems entirely random.

This does not seem to happen with SFTP connections. Also, I successfully uploaded the very same upload queue to the same server using FileZilla on a Windows machine – without any problem.

I wonder if somebody has had similar issues or even a solution.

Regards,
Daniel

Same problem but with cyberduck, tested on multiple computers and to various ftp servers. For now I've resorted to the upload options in cpanel which works fine, but that is not a good solution.


Convert domain account to local account I see this Apple article on converting a local user account to a network user account: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht5338

However, I'd like to do it in reverse. I'm comfortable with some of the steps, but for example this I'm not sure what the opposite is:

sudo scp -Epr /Users/username root@server.example.com:/Users/username

What are the steps required to convert a domain user to a local user on Yosemite?

Sierra must have changed something because this did not work. The account attempts to log in, then there were a ton of messages asking for the admin password because the Library needed to be repaired. Then there was an error that a valid keychain could not be found (because the account did not have access to any of its own folders.) In the past, an ACL reset would fix that, but that's not possible with Sierra (or at least I haven't found a reliable way to do it.)

What I did instead was:

From an admin account, delete the Mobile User account, but do not delete the home folder.
From Terminal, rename the user's home folder to remove the "(Deleted)" tag. You can also rename it to anything you want at this point, such as "johnspartan" instead of "spartanj117"
Create a new local account, using the same name as the account you just edited. Select "Use Existing Folder." (If you don't see the prompt, you mistyped something. Cancel and double-check the previous step.)
Log out of the admin account, and log into the newly created account. All should be there, minus the Mobile account tag.

This script did the trick for me.
https://derflounder.wordpress.com/2016/12/21/migrating-ad-mobile-accounts-to-local-user-accounts/