How can I use tabs in Mac Mail? One of the new featuers in macOS Sierra are tabs in more apps, including Mail.

How do I use tabs in Mac Mail? Clicking "View", "Show tab bar" displays a bar with one tab, but I can't find a way to open a new tab.

For tabs to work in all situations, you need to enable them in System Preferences->Dock (set the appropriate option to "always"). Afterwards, you can (in Mail) select "File -- New window" or press Opt-Cmd-N to create a new tab.

Not sure if your question was ever answered but all you have to do is use "option-command-n" to create new tabs on the tab bar
the other shortcut, "command-n" just creates a new email window. if you hit again command-n it'll create a tab inside the new email window!
Both commands are shown under the "file" menu
However tabs will only open if you've selected "use tabs when opening new docs- always" under dock preferences (system preferences/dock)


Is it possible to automatically back up my mac to Microsoft OneDrive? I'm not sure there is a way to do what I want to do.  Now that I have Office 360 + 1TB of free space, I'd like to set my mac to do monthly backups to OneDrive.  I'm looking for the following features.

Sync + Upload

Sync: would be great if it just uploaded changed files
Direct Upload: rather than just dropping files into the OneDrive folder, so my local Hard Drive doesn't explode.

Starts automatically, runs in the background

Is there any combination of software that can accomplish this?  I've done a fair amount of googling and can't seem to find a solution.  Basically looking for "Carbonite" but instead - using Microsoft OneDrive.

IF the onedrive is mounted then you can use sync and cron with a script
(Please note on kindle fire and format may be off so this will be simple):

cd $HOME
rsync -ar . /Volumes/<mount point of one drive>

This has more details:

Once you have saved script, and gave it execute permission, use crontab -e to add your frequency.

Please see this for crontab example (I can not give proper screen display with kindle)

If the drive is not visible with df, then I am not sure.

Following up on this answer, you could use this utility to mount your OneDrive folder and to the backup using the info above:

I have been investigating a product called CloudBacko which does exactly that.  It claims Windows, Mac, Exchange, and more backed up to Google Drive, OneDrive, S3, and many more, even aggregating multiple destinations.  It seems to be based on a white-label backup product called Ashay.  The Home version is free and claims to offer some support for versioning as well, but does not offer monthly backups according to the feature chart.  The cheapest paid version (Lite) offers monthly for a one-time $19 which they say is a perpetual single license.  I'm very curious but a bit gunshy until I see some reviews.

http://www.cloudbacko.com/en/cloudbacko-advanced-cloud-local-server-workstation-amazon-S3-google-backup-software-benefits.jsp


How to prevent html5 videos from using built in mac fullscreen The mac fullscreen mode has a slow animation which I have tried disabling but it seems that there is no way to do that as of now, so my question is, does anyone know of a way to disable html5 videos from using the mac fullscreen and just go instantly fullscreen like flash videos do?

Edit: If anyone is aware of some API in javascript which can make the videos go fullscreen instantly I may be able to write a chrome plugin that detects a native fullscreen api request, cancel it and initiate an instant fullscreen. Or if someone knows some type of workaround that can be done mac side, either from terminal or perhaps an objective-c native app I will develop them if necessary and post for all.

I'm afraid that's not possible.

Since all major browsers (Chrome, Firefox, Opera and Safari) all use the native Fullscreen API, you're stuck with the slow animation...

I researched wether there were any work arounds or tricks but there doesn't seem to be. You're not alone in being annoyed.

Only thing you can do is to use Flash when available, or, upgrade to Mavericks where the animation is minimal and quite a bit faster. 10.9 happens to be free so the entry barrier isn't that high.

Maybe try looking into this website?
http://davidwalsh.name/fullscreen


iMessaging an iPhone from an iPad I am trying to iMessage an iPhone 4S using its phone number. When I press send, the sending progress runs to ~90% and pauses. Then, after about 1-2 minutes, a red exclamation point appears. This happens every time. My WiFi connection is great. What's the problem? I have a 16 GB iPad WiFi running iOS 5.

Why not try iPhone's email address? As far as I know, iMessage is registered by e-mail, not phone number.


How to decrease .pdf size without losing quality Background

I want to decrease size of the .pdf filled with images.
In Preview in can be dome through Export and set Quartz Filter-> Reduce File Size before saving.

Problem

The file indeed decreased from ~30MB to 0.37MB.

But the result has such poor quality that images are barely readable.

Question

I saw an examples of using Image Magic to achieve that - but can it be done by Preview without any external software?

The problem is - the default filter used during conversion has very low conversion settings.

Thankfully, a custom filter can be added.

Adding custom filter step by step

Create new directory (if you don't have it) - /Library/Filters
Add there new filter file with unique filter - f.e. Reduce Size with good quality.qfilter
The file should contain XML with new filter - you can base on the /System/Library/Filters/Reduce File Size.qfilter file or use my below example. Change compression setting, image size and add unique display name for your filter.

Filter file structure/example

I marked key settings by comments.

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple Computer//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd">
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
    <key>Domains</key>
    <dict>
        <key>Applications</key>
        <true/>
        <key>Printing</key>
        <true/>
    </dict>
    <key>FilterData</key>
    <dict>
        <key>ColorSettings</key>
        <dict>
            <key>DocumentColorSettings</key>
            <dict>
                <key>CustomLHSCorrection</key>
                <array>
                    <integer>8</integer>
                    <integer>8</integer>
                    <integer>8</integer>
                </array>
            </dict>
            <key>ImageSettings</key>
            <dict>
                <key>Compression Quality</key>
    <!-- ====== Set your custom quality <0,1> ======= -->
                <real>0.75</real>
                <key>ImageCompression</key>
                <string>ImageJPEGCompress</string>
                <key>ImageScaleSettings</key>
                <dict>
                    <key>ImageScaleFactor</key>
    <!-- ====== Set your scale factor <0,1> ======= -->
                    <real>0.75</real>
                    <key>ImageScaleInterpolate</key>
                    <true/>
    <!-- ====== Set what sizes your images can reach ======= -->
                    <key>ImageSizeMax</key>
                    <integer>1684</integer>
                    <key>ImageSizeMin</key>
                    <integer>1200</integer>
                </dict>
            </dict>
        </dict>
    </dict>
    <key>FilterType</key>
    <integer>1</integer>
    <key>Name</key>
<!-- ====== Set unique display name for your filter ======= -->
    <string>Reduce Size Good Quality</string>
</dict>
</plist>

Result

Select your new filter when exporting file.

Helpful articles:

https://www.macworld.com/article/1168311/software/shrink-preview-files-without-ruining-image-quality.html

If you have a pdf which is version 1.6 or 1.7, you can use the duplicate setting in  Preview. Preview will save the file as a 1.4 pdf and save about 50% in file size. As far as I can tell there is no loss of quality. No need to use the export - reduced file size unless you want further savings.


Lost password on Mac OS Extended (Journaled, Encrypted) Drive. Want to reformat it I am using a Seagate Free Agent Desk external drive as my Time Machine on a modern iMac running Lion. I made the mistake of encrypting the drive, and I do not remember the password. I dont mind losing the data on the disk, and I just want to reformat it if possible in order to use it as a non encrypted drive. Any ideas on how to do this?

The encrypted volume's password is not required for erasing the disk, only to mount the encrypted volume on the disk. It's unclear whether you're being asked for the password only when connecting the disk, or when you attempt to erase it.
In Lion, you can use Disk Utility to erase an encrypted volume, but not in Mountain Lion. However, you can erase the encrypted volume with the diskutil cs delete command (see Terminal section below) in both versions.

Disk Utility (Lion only)
The following steps should work in Lion:

Connect the disk to your Mac.

When prompted to "Enter the password for the disk 'your disk'," click "Cancel". You don't need to mount the encrypted volume to erase the disk.

Open Disk Utility and locate your external disk on the left side. Its name will likely start with its capacity and include "Seagate" or "Free Agent" in the name. You should see your encrypted volume directly under the disk. The volume will be indented and grayed out.

Select the disk on the left side, not the volume.

Click the "Erase" tab, found between the "First Aid" and "Partition" tabs. If you don't see the "Partition" tab, and all the buttons under the "Erase" tab are grayed out, double-check that you've selected the disk on the left side, and not the disk's volume.

Choose a format and enter a name, then click "Erase".

If this doesn't work, let us know which step is not working and how.

Terminal (Lion & Mountain Lion)

With the encrypted disk connected, launch Terminal and enter the following command

diskutil cs list

You should see output describing the encrypted disk, starting with info about the Logical Volume Group:
CoreStorage logical volume groups (1 found)
|
+-- Logical Volume Group 109FC023-5F18-438A-AF3D-14FF60334A0C
    =========================================================
    Name:         Le Disque
    Size:         68375502848 B (68.4 GB)
    Free Space:   0 B (0 B)
    |
…

If you have more than one encrypted disk, locate the Logical Volume Group with the name of the disk you want to erase.

Copy the UUID which follows the words "Logical Volume Group". In this example this is the UUID for the disk named "Le Disque":
109FC023-5F18-438A-AF3D-14FF60334A0C

Warning The next command will erase the disk specified by the UUID you enter. Make sure you've copied the correct Logical Volume Group UUID for the disk you want to erase, especially if you have more than one encrypted disk connected.
Enter the following command to erase the encrypted disk, replacing copiedUUID with the UUID you copied:
diskutil cs delete copiedUUID

When complete, the disk will be partitioned with one volume mounted, called "Untitled". You can then start using it or repartition or encrypt it in Disk Utility as needed.

You should be able to reformat this external drive with Disk Utility without any problems.


How to auto-run disk repair on OS X after each system crash? How to auto-run disk repair on OS X 10.8+ after each system crash?

Note: I am not looking for a manual solution.

I don't know if OS X already performs some extra checks after hard shutdowns or kernel panics. The verbose startup output looked the same after a normal restart, a hard restart, and a kernel panic:

The OS X volume is verified when starting up in safe mode:

Do you mean repairing the drive, repairing the main OS X volume, or running fsck? http://support.apple.com/kb/ts1417 recommends first starting up in safe mode (which includes repairing the OS X volume), or if that doesn't work, repairing the drive or OS X volume from Disk Utility on the recovery partition. It says that you don't normally need to run fsck with journaled HFS+ volumes.

From the diskutil man page:

repairDisk device
           Repair the partition map layout of a whole disk intended for
           booting or data use on a Macintosh.  The repairs further
           include, but are not limited to, the repair or creation of
           an EFI System Partition, the integrity of any Core Storage
           Physical Volume partitions, and the provisioning of space
           for boot loaders.  Ownership of the affected disk is
           required; it must be a whole disk and must have a partition
           map.

[...]

repairVolume device
           Repair the file system data structures of a volume.  The
           appropriate fsck program is executed and the volume is left
           mounted or unmounted at it was before the command.  Owner-
           ship of the affected disk is required.

You could try saving this as ~/Library/LaunchDaemons/repairdisk.plist, but I don't know how to run it only after unclean reboots (or why it would be needed).

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC -//Apple Computer//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd>
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
    <key>Label</key>
    <string>repairdisk</string>
    <key>ProgramArguments</key>
    <array>
        <string>bash</string>
        <string>-c</string>
        <string>yes | diskutil repairDisk /dev/disk0</string>
    </array>
    <key>RunAtLoad</key>
    <true/>
</dict>
</plist>

See diskutil list or df -h for the identifier of the drive.

diskutil repairDisk /dev/disk0 showed a warning like Repairing the partition map might erase disk0s1, proceed? (y/N), where disk0s1 is the EFI partition. But it seemed to do the same operations as repairing the drive from Disk Utility. repairVolume can't be used with the OS X volume after you have started up from it.

I don't know of anything, but I had a string of crashes.  I made an appointment at Mac store, brought in my logs and they told me what the problem was.  They also said that they usually don't do this unless you have an appointment.  Be nice to them and they will bend over backwards to help.


How can I make SwiftKey the default on iOS 8? I've recently upgraded my iPhone 5s to iOS 8, and installed SwiftKey. I really like it, and I'd like it to be the default, but my keyboard keeps switching back to the default. I can switch back to the SwiftKey keyboard with the "globe" icon, but this is annoying, especially since the two look similar.

Is there a way I can either make SwiftKey the default, or remove the standard Apple keyboard?

My Keyboard settings page looks like this (note that SwiftKey is already at the top, which is how I assumed the default was set, but the default doesn't seem to be sticking):

Settings>General>Keyboard>Keyboards sets the keyboards you wish to use. The top keyboard in the list is the Default. "Edit" will allow you to edit, remove keyboards or move a keyboard to the top of the list.  To get Swiftkey as the default keyboard, move it to the top of the list.  I tried it and it works for me, of course as per below there are instances when Swiftkey wont be the default keyboard.

However, there are instances where your default keyboard will NOT be used, no matter the settings. Examples include when security settings, passwords etc are required, the standard Apple keyboard (now referred to as 'Quicktype') will launch. So do not expect the 3rd party keyboard to function exactly as the built-in one does...there will be places where it refuses to launch, usually due to a security issue.

As of Sept 2014, this is a new feature, so it is likely that there are refinements that will happen over time to help make the use of 3rd party keyboards more seamless.

Just move SwiftKey to the top of the list.


Open a bookmark in Safari from Terminal I do online tutorials one at a time and in a Safari bookmark called Current I always update the address to my current tutorial. I want some terminal command which I can call to start Safari and open Current. Starting Safari is simply an execution of open -a safari in the terminal.

How can I start Safari AND open the bookmark?

open http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/210601/open-a-bookmark-in-safari-from-terminal

Will open this page (in the default browser).


Will iTunes Match let me "upgrade" existing tracks to higher quality or bitrate? I want to pay the $25/year for iTunes Match specifically to get my thousands of low-bitrate tracks "upgraded" to high-bitrate.

Will I be able to invoke the service, get high-bitrate tracks downloaded to my Mac, and sync it with my iPod Classic?  Or is it only for iOS/iCloud streaming?

Yes, this is possible. Once the cloud has matched your lower bitrate song, make a final backup and delete that song from your iTunes library. You can then re-download the "standard" version from Apple's servers.

Jason Snell has a great writeup on an easy way to keep track of the songs by using the power of smart playlists:

Make a Smart Playlist Create a Smart Playlist with the following attributes:

Bit Rate is less than 256kbps
Media Kind is Music
Any of the following are true: (to create this conditional, option-click on the plus button in the Smart Playlist window) iCloud status is Matched, iCloud status is Purchased

Delete all those files Select all the tracks in your playlist, and then hold down the option key while pressing Delete. Be sure to not select the box that would delete them from iCloud!
Bring ’em back All those tracks should still be [in the playlist]—but now they’re marked as being available only in iTunes Match. Select all of them again, then control-click on the selection and choose Download.

At http://www.apple.com/icloud/features/, Apple announces that "It’s built right into the iTunes app on your Mac or PC and the Music app on your iOS devices." and "Even better, all the music iTunes matches plays back from iCloud at 256-Kbps AAC DRM-free quality — even if your original copy was of lower quality."

So it looks like you're in luck, if the service as released has the announced features.


Why doesn’t target display mode work? After reading online my iMac should work as a second screen for my new macbook. I have a thunderbolt to usb-c adapter and have been pressing command+f2. Below are the specs of my iMac, my understanding was that it wouldn’t work for late 2014 onwards, so why isn’t this working for me please?
iMac (21.5 inch Mid 2014).
1.4 GHz Dual core Intel Core i5.
8GB 1600 MHz DDR3.
Intel HD graphics 5000 1536 MB.
Thanks.
EDIT
I'm using a Macbook Air 2020 version that is running Catalina 10.15.7. The iMac is running exactly the same OS.
The cables I have are Thunderbolt into Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 adapter.
When I press Command + F2 absolutely nothing happens, no sound, no change on screen at all.

Macbook's with USB-C ports do not support Thunderbolt 3 and therefore the Apple Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter can not be used for Target Display Mode. See Use your iMac as a display with target display mode and About the Apple Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter
However, if your new MacBook really is a 2020 MacBook Pro, then your question is a duplicate of Target Display Mode not working on MacBook Pro 13" 2020. According to IW1234's answer, Apple Support stated they do not have this feature in newer devices.
I should also mention the 2014 iMac is not suppose to be running a macOS newer that High Sierra. However, I have a 2013 iMac with High Sierra and Catalina installed. When running Catalina, Target Display Mode works for video, but not for sound.

I think you need an Apple Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter : https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204592
Edit 1:
Ok if you have a Macbook or Macbook Pro have not Thunderbolt  port (only USB-C) this will not work. ;-(
However, if your MBp have a Thunderbolt port and if you use the good adapter, it must work.
If not, contact the Apple support.
Edit 2
You have a MBA 2020, so he have 2 Thunderbolt 3 ports : https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201736
it should work with the adapter quoted above.


How do I make my 1Password extension positioning stick in Safari? In IOS 8, I have the 1Password extension installed. I move it to the beginning of the queue so that it's the first item in the list of possible actions, but when I restart Safari, it's always at the end. How can I make this configuration change stick?

This was a bug in iOS 8 that was fixed in version 8.1.1

Not sure it matters what the position is in extensions.  It is the function that counts.  Each extension performs a different function, and when it loads seems as though it should be irrelevant, as long as it is loaded when Safari is ready to be used.


How to Sync Notes El Capitan to iOS 9 via IMAP Yes, I know Apple says this will no longer work. But it continues to work just fine on iOS 9 devices. Both iPad and iPhone iOS 9 devices continue to sync via my IMAP account. I enter or modify a note on iPad and I see the change on iPhone immediately, and vice versa. And my web mail client see the Notes folder with the updates. All sub-folders are visible in iPhone and iPad and in the web mail client...but not on Mac OS X.

How can I fix my Mac Notes configuration to reenable syncing via IMAP? I don't need the new features of Notes on El Capitan... I need basic synchronization of simple notes between all devices. I can't use iCloud or any other for-profit web service, I need to sync through a specific IMAP server for compliance reasons.

I've tried restoring the old Notes app, but Apple disallows this during the Time Machine restore function.

Thanks

For anyone else stumbling over this because Notes.app stopped syncing IMAP based notes in El Capitan 10.11.3, the solution which worked for me is the following:

Firstly, check that the IMAP Path Prefix is correct for the account. This can be done in System Preferences / Internet Accounts / (select your account) / Advanced or in Mail.app / Preferences / Accounts / (select your IMAP account) / Advanced. In my case, this was set correctly to INBOX, but sometimes requires different values, or no value at all.

Secondly, the solution given above by @rene actually works, but it's in French, so here's a step-by-step approach that worked for me.

Open Terminal.app to get a command prompt
Change directory to the following folder:

bash> cd ~/Library/Containers/com.apple.Notes/Data/Library/Notes/

Make a backup the file NotesV6.storedata so that you can restore it in case something goes wrong

bash> cp NotesV6.storedata NotesV6.storedata.old

Open NotesV6.storedata with sqlite3

bash> sqlite3 NotesV6.storedata

A new sqlite prompt will appear - you can always exit by pressing CTRL-D

sqlite>

(Optional) You can examine the table that we need to fix by entering the followoing command

sqlite> .schema ZACCOUNT

The ZACCOUNT table contains all accounts which Notes.app is accessing. However, in my case, the IMAP based account entry was missing information about username (field ZUSERNAME), hostname (field ZHOSTNAME) and path prefix (field ZSERVERPATHPREFIX). This is the information we need to update.
You can dump the whole table by invoking

sqlite> select * from ZACCOUNT

but it's probably easier to select a few relevant fields and identify the Z_PK id of your account

sqlite> select Z_PK,ZFULLNAME,ZPARENTACACCOUNTIDENTIFIER,ZUSERNAME, ZHOSTNAME, ZSERVERPATHPREFIX from ZACCOUNT;

This produced the following output for me:

1||
4|Exchange|EF792FA7-AAAA-CCCC-5678-123456789012|||
5|IMAPaccount|187229D1-BBBB-DDDD-1234-098765431287|||

As you can see by the field divider lines (|) at the end of the last line, fields for username, hostname, and prefix are empty for the IMAP account (Z_PK id 5) which is what needs to be corrected.

Update the table entry by invoking:

update ZACCOUNT set ZUSERNAME='email@example.com', ZHOSTNAME='imap.hostname.com',ZSERVERPATHPREFIX='INBOX.' where Z_PK=5;

You will of course need to set the correct field values and also adjust the Z_PK id with the correct reference, which you identified above.

As soon as I'd updated the table, Notes.app started magically syncing the notes from my IMAP based accounts.

When using notes.app in El Capitan, I've noticed that the account settings are lost in the Notes config file. It's a sqlite3 file, I've described what to do in my blog: Refaire fonctionner Notes avec IMAP sous OSX El Capitan. It's in french you may use google translate if you can't read french.

It says that you need to open with sqlite3 file ~/Library/Containers/com.apple.Notes/Data/Library/Notes/NotesV6.storedata
and execute some SQL statements with your imap settings (account, server, prefix)


How to boot my mac mini up when my iPod Touch is near? What I'm trying to achieve is if I'm near my mac mini (10 meters) I want to press a button (or something else) on my ipod touch and than my mac mini should boot up.

How could I make that?

There's a wifi network in which my ipod is. My mac is in there also but my mac is off.

Any ideas?

On your Mac mini enter Energy Saver in System Preferences and enable the Wake for network access.  Then find an app in the App Store that does Wake on Lan, this is one such app - http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/inet-wol-wake-on-lan/id318696675?mt=8 that I found during a search.  There might be others that fit your needs better.

What you want is called Lights Out Management (LOM), or IPMI. I don't know if LOM is supported by the Mac Mini. It was in Xserves, so it might be available if you have a newer Mac Mini and/or the server model. It may also require running OS X Server. I believe this is in the Power Management pane of System Preferences (although I'm not sure...anybody with access to Server care to comment?).

If you can get that set up there is an iOS app called IPMI touch ($4.99) which can power on IPMI enabled nodes.


problems installing homebrew on mavericks I tried to install homebrew (OSX 10.9.5) using the recommended

ruby -e "$(curl -fsSL https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Homebrew/install/master/install)"

but got

Illegal variable name.

I do have macports installed, so perhaps some commands do not what they are meant to?? But note that ruby is /usr/bin/ruby and curl is /usr/bin/curl.

How can I overcome this problem?

The problem lies with usage of tcsh as underlying shell. tcsh does not support $() as a syntax for command substituion. When using bash instead, it works just fine.

in terminal preferences, change /bin/tcsh to /bin/bash


iPhone XS Max stuck in bootloop, cannot get into recovery This issue started with a message saying that my storage space was almost full. I open settings and check storage, the estimate size does not show up. I go to photos app to delete a few photos/videos. I select a bunch and hit on delete, the images do not delete and the phone reboots into the Apple Logo.
It's been stuck on the apple logo boot loop for a while now.
Unable to set the iPhone to recovery mode by holding VOL UP + VOL DOWN + Power Button for 10 seconds.
Plugging the iPhone into my Macbook does not show the device connected.
What should I do next?
iPhone Model - iPhone XS Max 256GB
iOS Version - 14.4

this honestly sounds like your device's drive got corrupted entirely. you'd be better to send it to Apple for repair, i don't think there's anything an end-user can do without voiding any warranties or whatnot at best, destroying the device accidentally at worst.

Unable to set the iPhone to recovery mode by holding VOL UP + VOL DOWN + Power Button for 10 seconds.

That is not the button combination used to enter recovery mode.
With the iPhone connected to the computer via a Lightning cable, recovery mode is achieved by:

Briefly pressing volume up
Briefly pressing volume down
Holding the sleep/wake button until the iPhone reboots

This can take more than 10 seconds; don’t let go of the sleep/wake button at step 3 until a good 15-20 seconds passes.
A video showing how to correctly enter recovery mode on iPhone 8/X and newer: https://youtu.be/a70jiFqMGX0


Why can't I disable cellular usage for an individual app on iOS 7? I thought I disabled cellular usage for several games in the past. Going through the list of which applications I've allowed to use cellular data, I noticed there are a few still enabled. I flip them off and go on with my day. However, I've noticed that there are some applications which keep getting re-enabled!

On iOS 7.1.2 on an iPhone 4S, I am able to reproduce this:

Go into Settings/Cellular.
Disable cellular usage for Angry Birds.
Go back to main settings screen.
Go back to cellular settings.
Angry Birds is still cellular data enabled!

There is no error message, no indication that it didn't succeed. I've even tried rebooting the phone to see if there was some other error. Nope, this app plus several others refuse to keep their "disabled cellular data" setting. I have free RAM and free storage, so I don't think it should be a matter of available resources to complete the operation.

It is worth noting that there are numerous other applications on my phone that allow me to flip/flop their setting with no problems. Some other applications that are preventing me from doing this (if it is an app thing) are Hill Climb, KidsDoodle, Monster Dash, PunchQuest and PvZ.

Has anyone else seen this? Any reason for it? How can I fix this?

I am not considering upgrading to iOS 8 at this time given the unresolved issues and performance impact on a 4S.

thanks!

I had the same problem and the above fixes didn't help either. What ended up working was turning off the apps I wanted off, and then turning off cellular data altogether. Then moved back out of Cellular to the main Settings menu, then back to Cellular and my apps were still off. Then switched cellular data back on and the apps I wanted off stayed off. I also tried deleting and re-adding the offending apps and that worked too.

Go to the list of apps under settings. When you select it you can turn off cellular service within the app. Then turn it off under cellular.


How to open a fixed URL + what's in the clipboard via a script & bind it to a shortcut? Will this applescript work?

Tell Application "Safari" to open location
"http://www.site.com/"
end tell

Tell Process "Safari"
   Keystroke "l" using command down

Tell application "System Events" to key code
124 using command down

Tell Process "Safari"
   Keystroke "v" using command down
   Keystroke return
end tell

The following example AppleScript code will do as you asked:

set the clipboard to "questions/392514/i-want-to-write-a-script-to-open-a-fixed-url-whats-in-the-clipboard-ex-open"

set myURL to "https://apple.stackexchange.com/" & (the clipboard)

tell application "Safari" to ¬
    tell its first window to ¬
        set its current tab to ¬
            (make new tab with properties {URL:myURL})

If you run the example AppleScript code, as is, it will open to your question.

The first line of code is just there for testing purposes as well as the "https://apple.stackexchange.com/" part of myURL. Change it to what you want and comment out or delete the first line to use it normally.

To incorporate that into something more robust to account for the current state of Safari, the following example AppleScript code handles the typical different scenarios:

set the clipboard to "questions/392514/i-want-to-write-a-script-to-open-a-fixed-url-whats-in-the-clipboard-ex-open"

set myURL to "https://apple.stackexchange.com/" & (the clipboard)

tell application "Safari"
    activate
    if (count documents) is equal to 0 then
        make new document
        repeat until exists its first window
            delay 0.01
        end repeat
        set URL of its current tab of its first window to myURL
    else
        set firstTabURL to URL of its first tab of its first window
        if {"favorites://", "topsites://", missing value} contains firstTabURL then
            set URL of its current tab of its first window to myURL
        else
            tell its first window to ¬
                set its current tab to ¬
                    (make new tab with properties {URL:myURL})
        end if
    end if
end tell

Again, the first line of code is just there for testing purposes as well as the "https://apple.stackexchange.com/" part of myURL. Change it to what you want and comment out or delete the first line to use it normally.

Note: The example AppleScript code  was tested on macOS High Sierra.

Note: The example AppleScript code is just that and does not contain any error handling as may be appropriate. The onus is upon the user to add any error handling as may be appropriate, needed or wanted. Have a look at the try statement and error statement in the AppleScript Language Guide. See also, Working with Errors. Additionally, the use of the delay command may be necessary between events where appropriate, e.g. delay 0.5, with the value of the delay set appropriately.

I ended up going with this.

set this_text to the clipboard
set theURL to "[url]http://www.site.com/[/url]" & this_text

tell application "Safari"
   activate
   if (count documents) is 0 then make new document
   tell window 1
       set tabTest to URL of tab 1
       try
           tabTest -- throws an error if the window has no tabs
           set current tab to (make new tab with properties{URL:theURL})
       on error
           set URL of tab 1 to theURL
       end try
   end tell

end tell


IOS 10 warning: Using a hidden network can expose personally identifiable information I am aware that 'hiding' a wifi network/SSID does not make the network MORE secure, but Apple's warning on IOS 10:

  Using a hidden network can expose personally identifiable information

seems to indicate that hidden networks are LESS secure.

Clicking the 'learn more' link does not give any further info supporting the claim.

Exactly how can hiding an SSID make the network any LESS secure (by "expose[ing] personally identifiable information")

Clients that connect to known networks automatically will advertise “hidden” SSIDs in all of their probe requests. This results in your device broadcasting those SSIDs everywhere you go, to anyone who’s listening.
This behavior is dependent on the client’s operating system. For instance, you can configure Windows 7 and later to not connect to hidden networks automatically (only “visible” ones). That prevents such broadcasts from happening, but then you have to connect to hidden networks manually every time.
On the other hand, iOS and macOS always connect to known networks, hidden or not. The fact that iOS 10 warns about this would indicate that Apple has no plans to add the kind of toggle switch that Microsoft added in Windows 7, or to force the user to connect manually. Therefore, iOS and macOS constantly broadcast all the hidden SSIDs they are capable of connecting to.
Microsoft explains this behavior on TechNet:

A non-broadcast network is not undetectable. Non-broadcast networks are advertised in the probe requests sent out by wireless clients and in the responses to the probe requests sent by wireless APs. Unlike broadcast networks, wireless clients running Windows XP with Service Pack 2 or Windows Server® 2003 with Service Pack 1 that are configured to connect to non-broadcast networks are constantly disclosing the SSID of those networks, even when those networks are not in range.
Therefore, using non-broadcast networks compromises the privacy of the wireless network configuration of a Windows XP or Windows Server 2003-based wireless client because it is periodically disclosing its set of preferred non-broadcast wireless networks.

Now as to why this is a privacy issue:

Should I point out the irony of broadcasting an SSID in the direct vicinity of the access point trying to hide it? Except instead of only having the AP broadcasting it, every client in range does. Then the AP responds to each of those clients with the SSID anyway.
Instead of limiting SSIDs to the vicinity of their respective APs (like in the case of visible networks), your phone goes and broadcasts those hidden SSIDs to everyone near you, everywhere you go. Worse, SSIDs may include first and/or last names, which I’ve seen people use in network names.
Your set of preferred hidden SSIDs acts as a signature that may uniquely identify you. Let’s say for instance that my neighbor uses the hidden SSID My Secret SSID. Now if I sniff a broadcast beacon containing My Secret SSID at Starbucks, I can infer that a member of his household is nearby, or one of his guests. Based on the other hidden SSIDs among that person’s broadcast beacons, I may be able to determine exactly who I’m dealing with. Conversely, I could walk up to that person, recognize them, then assign a face to their unique set of hidden SSIDs.
Let’s say you carry your phone with you everywhere you go. Someone with a large-enough network of radio receivers could know where you are at any given time, figure out where you work, where you spend your time, whether you’re home, etc.

1 and 2 show how trying to hide an SSID makes the privacy of its network much worse. 3 and 4 show how that extends to your personal privacy as well.
Sound far-fetched? Criminals/advertisers/jealous exes/the government have done worse things. In fact, MAC addresses were once used to track shoppers’ movements through malls. Apple subsequently randomized MAC addresses in probe requests.
Thankfully, no one I know has used a hidden SSID in well over a decade, and I haven’t seen that practice recommended in even longer long.
Bottom line: don’t hide your SSID. It achieves the exact opposite of what you think it does.
Update: Since there seems to be some confusion as to why you can’t connect to a hidden network without broadcasting it to the world, as well as about security vs. privacy, let’s make a fun analogy.
Imagine a driver (the AP) is picking you up from the airport. They don't know you, and you don’t know them. So they hold up a sign that reads, “John Doe.” When you find them, you (the client) go and tell them, “I’m John Doe.” This is what happens when connecting to a broadcast network.
Now, imagine that driver is trying to be super covert, and doesn’t hold up that sign. What happens now is you have to walk around yelling, “Who’s picking up John Doe?” over and over, until finally the driver steps forward and responds, “I'm picking up John Doe.”
In either case, you then exchange credentials, make sure you’re each who you think you’re dealing with. What happens after authentication is just as secure either way. But every step leading up to it compromises your privacy.

Preface
I think what Apple's message on your screenshot wanted to say is that hiding networks' SSID won't allow them to hid anything except that. So basically they're telling you hiding networks isn't safer it just doesn't broadcast the SSID.
I agree with you the message can be very tricky to interpret, but I see this as the only reasonable way to read that. But let's not desperate, it's still a Beta, Apple changes a lot in Beta versions, so hopefully they'll update and clarify this message as well!

Thus, as Apple wrote on that page it suggested you:

Hiding a network doesn't secure your Wi-Fi network, because the SSID is still available through other mechanisms. Security is enforced by a different setting.

End of the story
Hiding networks' SSID won't make them safer or more secure.


How to tell if Optical Image Stabilization is actually working on my iPhone 6 Plus Today I started getting suspicious that Optical Image Stabilization is not working on my iPhone 6 Plus. These are the factors that led me to my suspicion:

While recording a video, if I shake the phone lightly, the shakiness is visible in the preview. However, when I play the after recording, most of the shakiness is gone.
This makes it look like stabilization is only being applied only once the video is done recording: Optical Image Stabilization (at least the way Apple describes it) is supposed to move the physical sensor to compensate for movement, so I believe that the preview shown while recording should also be stabilized.
Based on the previous assumption that the physical sensor should move, I think that said movement should be apparent by observing the rear-facing camera while the camera app is open and the phone is being shaken lightly. Unless the actual moving parts are not directly visible, I don't think they're moving in my phone. Besides this, the inner part of the camera (the lens you can see right behind the outer glass and the black plastic around it) looks like it's slightly offset downwards, because I can see a small gap right above it, between the plastic and the frame of the camera. The same gap is not visible below the plastic, so it looks like it isn't centered. I have never seen the camera move from that position.

Is there a way to be sure that Optical Image Stabilization is actually working? Do the things I described only happen on my device?

The optical image stabilization on the iPhone 6 Plus has to do with a tiny motor changing the lenses while the sensor is fixed to the body of the phone.

It only engages for still photos and due to the size of the motors and limited space inside the device, it will be almost impossible to hear the sound of it in operation.

The real test will be if your phone isn't capturing sharp still images that are well lit and have some contrast lines for the focus pixels to establish what the proper focus should be. I suppose you would need to mount an iPhone 6 and 6 Plus on the same physical mount and take the same picture (burst mode) or using something to trigger both shutters at the same time.

Also, you might try taking pictures from a moving car out the side window and see if you can detect any difference in the EXIF metadata between pictures taken while moving versus pictures taken when still. Apple encodes all sorts of details and I would start by looking at the Focus Mode field to see if OIS is indicated there.

That said, optical image stabilization on professional canon and nikon lenses costing $4000 and up isn't magic and just gets you one or two stops of exposure for a given shutter speed. The effects are not huge so you are gaining a slight boost in the amount of light that can be gathered and the shutter is allowed to stay "open" for longer than if the OIS were not helping to keep the image centered on the CCD.

I am 100% certain that the iPhone 6 plus does not have OIS for video, just for photos. It states in Apple's keynote and on their website that this capabilities for photos and not for video. Apple uses Cinematic Video Stabilization which is software for stabilizing video. But this is what really ticks me off. Every single review on the Internet and every single video review on youtube say that the OIS on the 6 plus helps tremendously for video and a lot of them do not even mention how OIS is used for photos. I do not know if other phones with OIS use it for video, especially for 4k video since you can not use software stabilization when recording 4k. I just do not understand how everyone could be mistaken. When OIS  does kick in for photos, there is no difference at all in good light and in low light there is no difference that I can see but some do say they can see slightly less grain. Can someone just please tell me how every person has gotten this mistake wrong.


How to get a complete list of all applications installed? Using OSX 10.8.4., I am having a hard time finding a complete list of all software applications installed on my Mac.  Of course, the Launchpad only shows the list of those that have an app shortcut created, excluding those that do not.  I also tried holding down the Option key while in the Apple Menu to change About This Mac to System Information, then Software-->Installations but that still was not a complete list.

How do I get a complete list of all applications installed?

Try:
About This Mac > More Info > System Report > Software

.

Not only "Installations" ... but the others may give you some info, too.


Restoring iPhone's state from a dd hard drive image This article, Recover Lost Data From Your iPhone, in its "Method 1" suggests a promising method to backup iPhone's entire state, that is iOS settings, apps, email settings, media files, that is everything to the least detail, using Unix/Linux dd utility that makes an image of the iPhone's hard drive. This allows treating iPhone backups akin to snapshots of a virtual machine or global restore points, which is very useful. However, despite of the article's title, it doesn't explain how to actually restore an iPhone's state from a file produced by dd utility.

Any ideas how to restore from dd hard drive images? Or maybe suggestions about better methods to save/restore iPhone's entire state?

You'll need to JailBreak the device before restoring. Then you'll need to go through the same process you took to create the image, except the values of the if and of arguments will need to be swapped.

Additional Reading

The problem I see is that there is not exclusive access to the NAND disks. The restoration software is attempting to update a live file system that is also in use by the current ios os


iTunes 11: Where are my podcasts? Ok, unless I'm missing something, I can't see my podcasts anymore? The only place they appear is in a new "Podcasts" playlist, which isn't much use to me for keeping track of episodes and subscriptions.

Am I just being blind? :-/

You may need to recheck the Podcasts checkbox in the menu iTunes | Preferences... | General tab.  OSX Daily suggests that it may be unchecked by default. Once checked, podcasts should appear under Library rather than as a playlist.

Once you have podcasts showing, using the dropdown upper right, if you switch to list view (weirdly located as one of 3 options in center of entire window, under "progress bar"), if you then click the twirl-down arrow for a podcast, a big gray arrow will automatically show if there are un-dowloaded episodes of that podcast. Click that, and a window will ask you if you want to download all episodes, which obviously you do. It all seems a little odd and seems like Apple needs to work on tis a bit more.


How can I create an entry in the /Applications folder that runs a command in the terminal? I would like to have an item in the /Applications folder that will open a new terminal window and run a specific command inside. How can I create this?

Use Automator which Apple made part of OSX..

Create a workflow

In the workflow choose Utilities/Run Shell Script

Save as changing the File format to application - this will give a .app and choose the directory to be /Applications

EDIT to show the output.
The workflow need sto consist of three steps

1) Text->Create New TextEdit Document
2) The Utilities/Run Shell Script
3) Text->Set Contents of Textedit Document

Maybe you need something like DTerm? It's just a shortcut away to invoke and freely installable from the AppStore. You can include it in your startup items and use it when you need it. If your command gives some output DTerm shows that in a floating window.


Does a Mini-DVI to DVI cable exist that's more than 6 inches long? I have a plastic MacBook that I like to use both on the go and at home, where I have a monitor, keyboard/mouse, speakers, etc that I hook up to use it more or less as a desktop. This works great, for the most part, except for the adaptor - it's constantly getting snagged on my desk due to the sheer size of the DVI-DVI connection.

I've tried looking online for a 3 foot Mini-DVI to DVI cable so that I can eliminate this bulk, but without success. It seems that both Apple and a number of third parties are more than willing to sell adaptors for the Mini-DVI, but none sell actual cables.

Have I missed something in my search? Or do manufacturers simply not produce the product I describe? If the latter, is it due to restrictions on using the Mini-DVI connector, a technical problem that requires the adaptor to be no longer than 6 or so inches, or perceived lack of demand?

I think the idea would be to use the Mini-DVI to DVI adapter at one end of a DVI to DVI cable.
The specs should be checked for maximum workable length (example)

Here's a 3 ft one on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X9380

Although, I couldn't find it on the Monoprice website.


Installing Windows 7 on Mac. A required CD/DVD drive device driver is missing I'm installing Windows 7 on my Mac via Parallels.  During installation I'm getting. "A required CD/DVD drive device driver is missing." message. Doesn't give me any option to proceed further.  What am I doing wrong?

p.s. I hit same message using bootcamp.

I'm using Macbook Pro OS X, Core i7. Trying to install Windows 7 Pro  64bit.

Everyone seemed to think that re-burning the disk would fix the issue. It did for a lot of people. But I had a purchased copy that I didn't burn.

The fix for me was to let Windows boot up. You'll see the black screen with a progress bar where the windows installer starts up. Start tapping F8. You might have to hold Alt/Option while tapping. I tried both just to be sure the menu would pop up. Then select: Disable Driver Signature Enforcement.

Doing that let me continue through the installer.

There is an absolute solution this problem;

Burn iso image to DVD, period. Because this error appears just with USB stick.
Want to use USB stick (like me) I know you won't believe me about my weird (odd) solution but it works :) Whenever I try to install Win7 from USB stick, this problem shows up. Then I examine USB stick's light. When error occured that light blink harmonic. I try to pull and push USB stick slowly and smoothly in its nest a couple times. When i see that light blink continuously then this error go away. Just pull and push very carefully.

Before that I tried USB stick to put another USB socket or other USB sticks but it didn't work because neither my USB sticks nor USB ports don't broken.

Finally the last word is Windows in Bootcamp doesn't like USB sticks much :D


Why does my iPhone say Activation Required? Why does my iPhone say Activation Required? It started doing this out of nowhere. I try to unlock it and it goes to Activation Lock. It says "This iPhone is linked to an Apple ID. Enter the Apple ID and password that were used to set up this iPhone."

In the "Activation Help" link it goes to a page:

  A password is required to activate this device because its owner has used Find My iPhone to link it to their Apple ID.

I never used Find My iPhone. I also had 2 factor authentication.

Why would my iPhone suddenly brick itself? It doesn't make any sense that an iPhone can just lock itself and render the whole phone useless!

Activation issues relating to the carrier are covered here:

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201407

This is also a distinct situation than when the device knows full well the servers are not reachable:

Your iPhone could not be activated because the activation server is temporarily unavailable

That being said, the device activation can also fail or hang for four reasons that are ranked in rough order of likelihood:

Network you are connected to can't get to Apple's Servers
Apple's servers are overloaded and you can wait 15 minutes to an hour and get activated without needing Customer Support to assist
Apple's servers are up and running and your device record needs Customer Service to intercede and correct a typo or sold date
Your device needs to be erased and restored

The first can usually be remedied by trying another WiFi network or making sure the network you are on isn't blocking traffic to Apple's Servers with filtering or firewall. The second item can also happen when your network is overloaded or there is general internet connection or routing issues.

I had this too, still trying to figure out why, not used find my phone.

The suggested AppleID is similar although I think it might be a Gamil variant, e.g. if my email was z*****@g**.com it is shoqing z*****@g****.com

I was reluctant to enter anything into the phone in case it had been hacked, I connected the phone to iTunes but it would not let me baclup, instead it took me to a page giving a similar error (Activation Required) and asking for my AppleID and Password.

I figured was unlikely both phone and Laptop hacked so entered my credentials.

The phone unlocked and I was able to access my data and do a backup.  I still do not know what kicked off this Activation Required, it said it was because someone had done find my phone but there was nothing about that when I logged into icloud via browser.

I gather that  it might have been caused by a former owner of my phone with a different iCloud issuing a Find My Phone via there account..


Will 2GB ram run Yosemite smoothly cant upgrade my 2009 iMac 2009 20" with 2GB for a few months but need to upgrade to 10.9.4 to install Yosemite.

I am currently running 10.8.1 as a fresh install of Mountain Lion which runs fine, but I dont want to install Yosemite and have OS hang and beach ball on me.

Not running anything to intensive, at most; Sublime, Spotify, terminal, Firefox

A friend of mine recently upgraded his MacBook5,1 (2009 core 2 duo) with 2GB to Mavericks. It wasn't the most pleasant thing, but it actually didn't work out too bad for him and he even thinks there was a slight performance increase (I'm assuming due to the memory compression stuff being a touch faster than swap). I'm assuming that Yosemite isn't going to be much more stressful than Mavericks, so you can probably get away with it.

That being said, 2GB is absolutely too little these days if you're going to run more than one application. You are going to get beach balls, but perhaps slightly less than what you did with Mountain Lion. Again, I'm assuming this because of the memory compression introduced in Mavericks works faster than swapping to disk and with that little RAM you will be swapping out (or compressing) pages.

Yosemite needs a minimum of 4gb to run smoothly IMO, however 8gb is better if you're a power user.


Java WebStart fails on Mac OS Mountain Lion After searching several hours for a helpful hint on support pages and FAQs that really (!) work this question:

I need Java WebStart for an application that works on MAC OS X (Mountain) Lion. So far we had no problem with the application on Snow Leopard.

On my MacBookAir the applications starts. On a second system with the same OS and the same Java installations I always receive the well known  error window (with the corresponding English message like "you have to load the Java Runtime  Environment for Web Start...)

A click on "more information" delivers the java.com web page that offers the JRE download that is already installed.

The corresponding console error message is:

"No Java Web components present, requesting install"

System: Mac OS X 10.8.2, Intel Core Duo

Installed Java:

Apple 1.6.0_37-b06-434
Oracle Java SE  Run Time environment:7u9)
Oracle Java SE jdk-7u9-macosx-x64.dmg)

Output of
   /usr/bin/java -version
is: Java SE runtime environment 1.7.0_09-b05

The java.com website signals on the installed version web page): Version7 Update 9 installed.

The Java Control Panel also says:

"Version 7 Update 9 installed"

The Java Control Panel offers no choice to "enable the Java web start".

Any suggestion is very welcome!

Best regards,
Werner

The oracle java version here (1.7.0_09-b05) is old and  is  blocked by Safari as a security risk a see this Apple note. Upgrade to the current JDK which is currently Java SE 7u21.

I had a similar problem and the following apple suport entry helped me to solve my problem: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5559

Check also the links on the bottom saying "To re-enable the Java 7 applet plug-in".


Replacement for Isolator It seems that one of my all time favourite apps Isolator has been abandoned. While it still works, it hasn't been updated in forever, could use some customization features and it isn't ready for Yosemite.

Does anyone know of a great replacement for it, one that will have Yosemite support and be maintained onward?

Isolator Webpage — Still active.
http://willmore.eu/software/isolator/

I use this app every day, I've donated to the developer a few times and sent emails asking about it but to no avail, no responses or updates to the app. I wish they would just make it open source on github or something for someone else to pick it up if they don't want to continue with it.

Edit: Only just saw this comment by the OP. I will leave this answer up in case anyone finds it useful.

Try HazeOver. It does what Isolator did: Puts a dimmable layer over the screen except for the current window (or all windows of the current app).

It is a paid app, available on the Mac App Store. It has been updated for El Capitan and works for me without issues. The developer is responsive and has implemented a feature I personally requested.

You can activate HazeOver via the menu bar, a keyboard shortcut or AppleScript. I personally use a simple Alfred workflow to set the dim intensity.

Here is what it looks like (bottom left is HazeOver's preference window):

DeskCover - Make your desktop less distracting

Hides items on your desktop behind a beautiful picture cover,
system wallpaper or solid color
Highlights the active window … and help you focus on the task at hand

Homepage


Where is the official Apple documentation for the Terminal App? I need a list of escape sequences Terminal.app does not implement all xterm sequences. I need to get the complete list of what it does implement. Is it available anywhere?

This is a bit vague... what sequences are NOT implemented?  One simple solution would be to see if iTerm2 is a better fit to your needs.  Incidentally, have you tried:

~$ cat .bashrc
export TERM=xterm-256color

(I am setting my TERM to xterm-256color in my bashrc, so that I get a number of xterm-256color behaviour by default).

Having said that, a few google inspired links that you might find useful, or not, depending on the sequences you are looking for:

https://discussions.apple.com/thread/1375184?start=0&tstart=0

http://taoofmac.com/space/apps/Terminal

I'm not really sure that this is what you want, but...

Terminal -> Preferences... -> Settings -> (select your default theme) -> Keyboard.

Here you can see – and edit – a list of shortcuts. See also the "advanced" tab of the same panel.


iPhone/iPad GMail Stopped Sync'ing Properly I have a couple of GMail accounts which I track on my iMac, iPhone, and iPad. On the iOS devices, both of the accounts are setup as Exchange accounts with Push delivery. I read that this is the recommended way to setup iOS with GMail and everything has been working flawlessly with this configuration for years.

A few days ago, the iOS devices stopped sync'ing properly. They receive all inbound emails immediately. However, if an email is read or deleted on my iMac, this isn't reflected on the iOS devices at all unless I force-quit the email app and restart it. It's getting really irritating because the iOS devices are constantly showing unread mail even when my inbox(es) are completely empty.

What happened? Does it have something to do with this latest iOS update (6.1.2)? The release notes said it had something to do with Exchange but I didn't read closely because technically, I don't use Exchange and I figured it didn't apply to me. Did they screw something up somehow? Shall I revert back to prior iOS version?

Any ideas appreciated.

Go to mail, contacts, calendars>Fetch Data> check every 15 minutes!!
Took me a few minutes and found no one posting this fix!!

Turning off 2-Step Verification will revert you back to push changes.


Safari homepage hijacked and I can't change back imac 2011 10.10.5

Safari had homepage hijacked and I can't change it back to google.com.  When I go to Safari preferences and try and change, it just immediately goes to www.rack-search.com/....

I tried deleting all the com.apple.safari.plists in library.

Can you help?

This answer is not for a malware hijack situation, but rather a bug in Safari 11.0 that does not allow you to change the homepage. If you try to change the homepage, as soon as you defocus from that field, it reverts back to the original.

The workaround is:

Enter the new homepage. Do not press tab/enter or leave the field.
Click on another tab in Preferences, such as the Advanced tab.

Now it should ask you to confirm to change your homepage.

go to system preferences/ click profile/ then delete it. it'll say forced. just try clicking around that's what I did. like open the page all the way if you can and then yeah click around. it'll pop up are you sure to delete/remove and click yes and enter in your admin password. after that my homepage wasn't locked anymore.


Recovery/Restore of Photos I'm hoping someone can help me with an issue with recovering photos on an iPhone.  I'm an IT person (but mostly work in the Windows world), and am trying to help a friend.  This friend had an iPhone 7 (probably 128 GB) and recently upgraded to an iPhone X.  Unfortunately, it seems the person at the phone store screwed up helping them, and I'm thinking that they probably restored an older iCloud backup to the new phone.  The reason I think this is because there's about a year's worth of photos that are missing on the new iPhone X.  I happened to have a spare iPhone 8 64 GB temporarily laying around, so I did an iCloud restore of their most recent iPhone 7 backup to this phone and found all of their "missing" photos.  Unfortunately, the problem now is that as the iCloud backup attempted to restore everything to this temporary iPhone 8, it ran out of space.  I don't know enough about the workings of iCloud (restores, iCloud Photos, etc.) so am at a loss now as to the easiest way to transfer these "missing" photos to my friend's new iPhone X (especially in light of the fact that the temporary iPhone 8 is out of space and didn't finish downloading everything from the iCloud backup).

I was thinking maybe of trying to upload all the photos to Google Photos, or maybe letting it sync to a computer and then do something from there.  I'm not sure, but it seems there is some sort of iCloud Photos repository in iCloud that allows photos/videos to be uploaded and stored in iCloud (my friend has a few hundred GB that he pays for) and then synchronized with multiple devices (similar to Google Photos), but I can't figure out how to get these "missing" photos to that easily (I'm thinking maybe they haven't synchronized to that yet because the iCloud backup restore never finished...?).  Any help is greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

https://www.easeus.com/phone-transfer/mobimover-free.html worked great - Thanks Buscar!


Using terminal to get current fan speed? I would like to view the current fan speeds of my MacBook and iMac using terminal. I've found that running spindump then cat /tmp/spindump.txt | grep "Fan speed" will show it, but that's very slow and processor intensive. I would like a faster and more efficient way of doing it.

I'd rather not install 3rd party software, but I will if it's the only way.

Does anyone have any suggestions to how I might accomplish this?

Thanks

smcFanControl

You mention in your comments having smcFanControl installed; this open source project includes the command line tool smc. You can use smc to get fan speed information via Terminal.app:

smc -f

See the smc manual page for more options.

Since Mac OS X 10.5, you need to use a third party piece of software to access the fan speed information. It appears no tool, installed by default on OS X, exposes this information through the terminal.

The open source project Fan Control includes a command line tool that provides fan speed information. This article, OS X: Current CPU temperature on command line, talks about the project and how to extract the fan speed:

smc -k TC0D -r | sed 's/.*bytes \(.*\))/\1/' |sed 's/\([0-9a-fA-F]*\)/0x\1/g' | perl -ne 'chomp; ($low,$high) = split(/ /); print (((hex($low)*256)+hex($high))/4/64); print "C\n";'

Avoid spindump

spindump requires administrator privileges and when run manually, spindump samples user and kernel stacks for every process in the system. This is a computationally expensive process, even when run for one second.

Alternatives

Other tools and applications exist, including Temperature Monitor. See Can I get the CPU temperature and fan speed from the command line in OS X?

Pre-Mac OS X 10.5

This article, get sensor information, shows how to use ioreg to extract the fan speed information with:

ioreg -c IOHWSensor | grep -B3 -A11 '"type" = "fanspeed"'

The above article and the script it contains was designed for Mac OS X 10.4.3.

See also:

Reading hardware information from command line with built-in tools.
Determining Fan Speeds

Triple click the following, copy it, and paste it into Terminal:

sudo spindump 1 1 -file /tmp/spindump.txt > /dev/null 2>&1;grep "Fan speed" /tmp/spindump.txt;sudo rm /tmp/spindump.txt

It should output the fan speed.


macOS Mojave: createinstallmedia: command not found I'm following the official Apple guide to create a bootable installer for macOS Mojave:

How to create a bootable installer for macOS

when I execute the command:

sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ Mojave.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/MyVolume

I receive the error:

command not found

I followed all similar posts like this:

createinstallmedia: command not found

but I cannot find a solution.

It appears that you do not have the installer for macOS Mojave downloaded on your system. Follow the steps listed in the section Download macOS in the linked Support document, How to create a bootable installer for macOS, to download the installer locally on your Mac before running the command:

  Download macOS

  Download a macOS installer, such as macOS Mojave or macOS High Sierra.

  To download macOS Mojave or High Sierra for this purpose, download from a Mac that is using macOS Sierra 10.12.5 or later, or El Capitan 10.11.6. Enterprise administrators, please download from Apple, not a locally hosted software-update server.
  When the macOS installer opens, quit it without continuing installation.
  Find the installer in your Applications folder as a single ”Install” file, such as Install macOS Mojave.

The installer is typically around 6GB in size. You can verify it by going to /Applications directory, selecting the app bundle and using Command + I keyboard shortcut to view info.

After you have the installer available locally, you can connect an external USB drive, run the mentioned command and create a bootable installer.

Note: The macOS installer can be placed anywhere on disk. Adjust the path of the createinstallmedia command accordingly to create the bootable media.

You have to have the path to your app at the end of the statement..

sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ Mojave.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia -–volume /Applications/macOS\ yourappname


2007 iMac Blurred Screen of Death I'm running OS X 10.10.1 on a 2007 iMac (Intel based) I have tried to boot into the recovery HD, but it just continues with the boot as if I have never pressed cmd-r. When it does finally boot; it goes to a screen with the spinning beach-ball of death and a blurred background. I have reinstalled the RAM twice, and have reset the NVRAM and PRAM.

Any help or suggestions are appreciated!

The Hard Drive Failed... Went to apple and they told me :(

Yosemite is taking all RAM during the dead start, allow it to boot for more than 40 minutes.  The screen will eventually go black, allow it to continue... finally, it will finish the start up and present the normal login screen.   After 10 minutes of sluggish operation, it will be normal.
Eventually Apple may fix the problem.


How do I reply to a mail with in-line comments on iOS? When I answer emails from outlook on my PC I can add in-line answers to questions I’m asked and it automatically add my initials inside brackets when I click “enter” like so:

What is the weather today?
[RW] Sunny and bright
How do you feel today?
[RW] Very good, thank you!

It also makes my answers bold and italic usually.
Is there an iOS app that does the same?

IOS support also what you need:

from upper right icons of the received mail, press the curved to left arrow to generate a replay;
press return on the line where you need to write an answer to create an empty new row;
on your keyboard, upper right, touch/press the letters "B" and "I" to generate bold and italics. Please note these letters become color blue;
type your answer. It will be written in bold italics;
send as usual!


macOS High Sierra memory always at 75% Since my update to macOS High Sierra my memory is always at 75% even after a fresh startup.

Is it just iStat Menus that shows it this way or is there really only 25% of memory free (out of 8GB) ?

Or is it the memory that is saved for applications ?

What is the difference between:

Wired (???)
Active (currently in use?)
Compressed (not used since longe time?)
Free (free...)

After closing every app I could, here is the result, approximately 50% of RAM. But WindowServer is huge... What is it?

MacOS will try to use as much memory as it can. Having more RAM will improve performance, but using most of what you have is not in itself a bad thing. MacOS will make room, if it needs to.

This Apple support document tells you what the various attributes mean:

Wired Memory: Memory that can’t be compressed or paged out to your
startup drive, so it must stay in RAM. The wired memory used by a
process can’t be borrowed by other processes.
Compressed: The amount of memory in RAM that is compressed to make
more RAM memory available to other processes. Look in the Compressed
Mem column to see the amount of memory compressed for each process.

"Active" is not a term that Apple uses anymore, but it's 'general' memory used by applications. Wired tends to be system memory, which can't be removed because it's critical; and compressed tends to be stuff that's not being used right now, and so can be compressed to save space.

Memory management is: a) more complicated than "water filling a bottle"; b) something the OS is good at, c) something the OS is doing constantly.

Use Activity Monitor instead of the silly tool iStatMenus.
The Ram handling is complxer than that.


bug: unable to turn on "Show date and time in menu bar" All of a sudden, I had the date and time on the menu bar of my 10.6 machine vanish. I tried turning it on in the "Preferences >> Date and Time" section but I'm not able to.

Anyone got similar problems/found a solution to this?

If there's any additional information I can provide you, please let me know. Thanks in advance!

It's possible com.apple.menuextra.clock.plist located in your user /Users/yourShortNameHere/Library/Preferences is corrupted.

Close the System Preferences window. Move that plist out of its directory, and re-launch the System Preferences.

Feedback if it doesn't work.

I had one thought that hasn't been covered. Your computer has a small battery on the motherboard that is supposed to last about 4-5 years. If this battery runs down, the date/time will not be stored. This is a long shot though, as I cannot remember the last time I had this problem - 8 years?

So, if the solutions above do not work, and especially the great suggestion to create a new user, the only recourse left (and it may be a good idea under the circumstances**), is to perform an clean reinstallation of your system.

I presume you have your 10.6.x disk. Make a clone (I like Carbon Copy Cloner) to an external drive, or a complete Time Machine backup.

1.Reinstall Snow Leopard.
2.Check / repair permissions as many times as necessary.
3.Perform Software Updates as many times as necessary.
4.Repeat step 2.

Let us know the outcome. Good luck.

** if there is something screwy with the date and time prefs, then other system functions may also be malfunctioning, and you don't want to end up with bad/missing data.


How to set a default font for outgoing messages in Mail on Lion Mail in OS X 10.7 (Lion) doesn't allow me to set a default font for outgoing messages, and it's finicky when I change it in the message.

When I show the font bar (by clicking the A button at the top right of the message window), the font bar doesn't retain its value if I set it before typing any text.  If I change it and then start typing, it changes to what I set it as, but if I delete all my text then it reverts to default (Helvetica).

How do I get around this?  Is there a plugin to solve this, is it considered  a bug...?  I found the Universal Mailer plugin, which is now open source.

Mail has lacked the ability to set a default outgoing font via its Preferences since at least 10.4.  Users who really need this, often switch to Outlook/Entourage or Thunderbird. There are also some plugins, such as Universal Mailer or Message Font that can do this.

You should be able to do this by going to Mail Preferences > Fonts & Colors and selecting the following option:


Trackpad 1 pair with windows 10 I'm using windows 10 on my MBP, and my trackpad (Bluetooth) won't work, unless I disable the bluetooth, then it works... So, how can I have both trackpad and bluetooth?

So, I solved it by going back to OSX, removed the trackpad from the Bluetooth settings, then disabled bluetooth. I paired the trackpad with a tablet to test, and it paired, so I logged back to windows 10, then it paired with the '0000' code.

Strange, but it worked.

On Windows 10, when asked to enter pin, use "0000" then press enter on the keyboard and click the trackpad immediately.

It worked for me.


Override iTunes "media" keys (play, pause, etc) for Spotify? Is it possible to set Spotify as the default program when the "media" keys (play, pause, previous, next, etc) are pressed on the Mac keyboard?

For the most part when Spotify is open, the "media" keys work fine. But every once and a while iTunes will pop up when you hit them. It'd be a lot nicer if you could just specify that Spotify is the default program when these keys are triggered, as oppose to iTunes.

If it matters, I'm using Mountain Lion.

The software Beardedspice provides a user-friendly approach to prioritizing Spotify for your media keys. It runs in the background and gives you a few simple settings in the Mac menu bar. It just works.

Download and installation
It can be downloaded and installed directly from the Beardedspice homepage, or by using e.g. Homebrew:
brew install --cask beardedspice

Notes

It is compatible with macOS Big Sur.
Ensure the application is given sufficient privileges in Security & Privacy in the System Preferences.
Beardedspice supports controlling a vast amount of media players. Simply disable any unwanted players, while keeping Spotify enabled.
I am not affiliated with the developer(s), I am just a satisfied user.

Update 2021-01-16 - Use Beardedspice as the alternative app Mac Media Key Forwarder is no longer being updated
As there are reports of Mac Media Key Forwarder not working for some users, and the developer no longer updating the app, it is recommended to use Beardedspice.
Nevertheless, Mac Media Key Forwarder will still work fine for most people running on e.g. MacOS High Sierra, Mojave, Catalina, or Big Sur so it remains an alternative.

Download and installation
It can be downloaded and installed directly from GitHub, or by using e.g. Homebrew:
brew install --cask macmediakeyforwarder

there is an option on the keyboard to either use the traditional F1, F2, etc keys, or the special features. Maybe you have selected the traditional mode.


How to recover a corrupted external drive encrypted by FileVault? I used Filevault to encrypt an external USB 2TB drive. Last week, I used the drive as usual, entering a password to unlock it to use.

Unfortunately, it didn't dismount properly. Since then I have not been able to use the drive: Disk Utility tried to repair it, but seems to have broken it even more, because now when I plug it in, Mac OS tells me that it can't recognise the drive, and prompts me to initialize / ignore / eject. Using terminal, the standard repair / verify commands I googled don't work. Please help?

Before all, you need to be sure that the drive is 100% healthy at hardware level.

The first thing I would do is checking the S.M.A.R.T values on a computer running Windows, using a tool like HD Sentinel or equivalent. This will give you a good estimation about in which condition the drive is.

You should test the drive connected in an external USB or eSATA dock as the original drive enclosure may also have problems, like weak electrical contact or so.

Then, I would low level clone the drive to another one.
Even if its condition is 100% Ok according to the S.M.A.R.T. values.
This step can reveal a few defective sectors, which were not referenced yet by the S.M.A.R.T. monitoring.

Even if your drive is 100% healthy, every serious data recovery professional will tell you than in a situation like the one you're encountering, we never work on the original drive, but always on a clone, especially when possibly dangerous commands like verify/repair ones are used.

The fact that your drive suggests that you should initialize it (-- don't to it ! --) if often an indicator or hardware issues, like corrupted firmware or damaged heads, requiring data recovery by a company that is specialized in data recovery (and not the first local computer shop you can find).


Automator choose finder folder and run shell script I've got a simple shell script that I would like to incorporate into an automator workflow. I just need to double click the application , pick a finder folder and run the command. At the moment it is running in my default user directory. I've found how to do this as a service, but I'd like it to work as an application.
How can I get to run in the chosen folder? Optionally a drag and drop onto the application would be nice as well.

You can simply pass the selected folder to the shell script by selecting "as argument" from the "pass input:" dropdown-menu and then adding "$@" at the point in your script where you want the folder path to be used.

To use drag&drop, just remove the "ask for finder items" action and let the "run shell script" receive the input from "application can receive files and folders as input".

The way I do this is define the path to a variable, then open up the workflow in a text editor, search for the variable, copy the string, then use $(string) anywhere in the workflow whatsoever (including shell scripts).


Change delay for auto-hide on menu bar In 10.11 is there a way to change the delay for showing the menu bar when auto-hide is enabled? I know for the dock you could use terminal and defaults write com.apple.dock autohide-delay -int 0

I ran the following Terminal command defaults find Menu Bar and found this:

Found 1 keys in domain 'Apple Global Domain': {
    "_HIHideMenuBar" = 0;
}

The _HIHideMenuBarproperty can be either 0 for Disabled or 1 for Enabled. And that's the same setting found in System Preferences - General - Automatically hide and show the menu bar.

So I guess it isn't possible as of today.

Other solution: try the Windows way by changing the keyboard input source to 'US - international (PC)'.
Then you can type the same easy way as you could in Windows (typing ' first, and then e would produce é).


What are all these files on my Mac? I just did a clean install of the latest Catalina on my Mac. I was searching for my documents folder and all these files appear? What are they? can I delete it? is it possible is malware?

You're in a search screen and it's currently listing all of the files on "This Mac" (your Mac).  It's literally (not figuratively) every single one of your files listed alphabetically in a search window; it's nothing harmful.

Just close out of the search and you'll be fine.  You might want to take a quick read of the Apple document, Get to know the Finder on your Mac.

The search is set to look in "This Mac" instead of the folder that you are in which is "Documents".  Change that and you will be good!


Macbook Air not detecting correct external display resolution My Macbook Air stopped detecting the resolution of my external display this morning and I'm not sure why because it was working fine last night. My display is 24" 1080p and in the past whenever I have connected my monitor to my Macbook, it's just used the 'Best for Display' resolution. Today though, this automatically defaults to 800x600 and looks like the picture on the left. Then when I change the resolution to 1920x1080 it looks like the picture on the right (click to enlarge).

Things that I've tried so far:

Rebooting the MacBook
Disconnecting and reconnecting the Mini DisplayPort
I've tried with another computer (Windows) and it displays fine.
Resetting the settings of the monitor and doing and auto adjustment.

The fact that it's limited to this computer means that it's not the monitor, I'm wondering if there is any way to reset the display/graphics controller or something? Thanks.

With the Display pane of System Preferences visible, hold down the Option key and the "Gather Windows" button in the lower right should turn into a "Detect Displays" button. Click on that button and your computer should take care of the rest.

On my MacBook Pro with OS X 10.8.3 I have a configuration file for each external display I connected to my Mac in this folder: /Library/ColorSync/Profiles/Displays. If you can identify the file for your display from that list, try moving the file to a different folder and reconnecting your monitor. This solved an issue I was having with colours not showing correctly.


Did my Time Machine backup copy over properly? I have an old WD hard drive that I used for Time Machine for a while, but the drive is showing signs of age (it starts buzzing loudly if left on for a while), so I bought a new (Toshiba) drive to replace it. I had on the WD hard drive a Time Machine backup for someone else's computer also that I didn't really need anymore. The total size between the two backups was about 300 GB (100 for theirs, 200 GB for my computer). Anyway in the morning I dragged the backups folder with both backups from the WD to the Toshiba. Took like 5 hours for it to finish "preparing to copy", and by the time I wanted to go to bed it still had like 70 GB left to copy. I didn't want to leave it running so I hit cancel, figuring that the next day I could delete the other computer's backup and try again. So today I was going to do that, and I saw it actually had already copied my computer's backup to the Toshiba HDD and part of the other computer's Time Machine backup. It seemed like it did the folder for my computer first and then moved on to the backup of the other computer. But when I compared the folder for my computer's backup between the new and old hard drives, the old folder showed about 300 MB larger than the new one. It's pretty close but it makes me wonder.

So I set the new HDD as the Time Machine drive, Time Machine seems to work normally, it even did a backup to the new drive like normal. Does it sound like it copied properly? Can size variations like that between large directories of copied folders happen, maybe there are certain unnecessary things that don't copy, or size is read differently? I would very much like to avoid wiping the backup off the new hard drive and re-copying everything.

Secondarily, if it's possible that some files in the backup didn't transfer, would the fact that it did a new backup onto that drive fill in any gaps or missing files if I needed to, say, restore from a time machine backup?

Time Machine does not make a 100% perfect copy, nor does it necessarily make a BOOTABLE copy should you need to swap it in suddenly one day.  A better way to upgrade to a new SSD (don't spend all that time only to put in another slow spinning drive that only lasts 2-3 years these days!), is to also purchase a usb-to-sata transfer cable for $10-$20, use Carbon Copy Cloner (CCC) on the old mac to make a bootable mirror image, including the hidden recovery partition (and possibly update it!), then swap drives and go about your life.  Optionally wipe the old drive to use for testing or backups if it's still safe to use at all.. likely not if it's several years old.  CCC is a fantastic paid backup app, but I think you can get away with making a full bootable clone without buying it first.  This may have changed.


Software recommendation: Command line network analyser that shows owning process I'm looking for something that is a mix of tcpdump, lsof, and netstat.

I want to be able to filter like tcpdump, but have an additional column showing the process ID.  At the end I'd like to be able to stats like wireshark, but by application.

Why, you ask?

Good question.  I want to be able to answer things like this:

What process is connecting on port 80 to *le100.com (owned by google)
Why am I seeing packets to amazonaws when I have no browsers running?
Why is there traffic to stackoverflow.com when I have no web pages open to it?

GUI or commandline doesn't matter.

This got started when I was trying to figure what was taking up all the bandwidth on my rather limited connection.  (We have 4 computers in the house for an asymetric 2M/500k connection.  That's bits, not bytes.)

lsof will do this with the correct flags and arguments.  The following flags will show you the program and PID using the open connections.

-P to show you port numbers instead of names.
-i[tcp|udp][@hostname|IP][:port]

Here are examples for the 3 situations you listed.

lsof -Pitcp@le100.com:80

Note, I do not believe that lsof allows globbing with *

lsof -Pi@amazons.domain.here

or

lsof -Pi@x.x.x.x

Have you tried writing a directory to your sdcard.
Example.
Directoryname_Read_write_exacute_system_port.
The savvy can figure out the rest.
Not for the lil league.


iPod Touch, HD video app Dim Screen? Is there an app that will record HD video but sleep or dim the screen? The camera app that comes with the device chews through battery power like crazy.

You can use backgrounder iPhone tweak if jailbroken that will run apps in background While iPhone seems to be shut down I use this when downloading long files I just turn on backgrounder to have app run in background  and press button on top of iPhone so everthing is off but what your running in background


Mounting a single partition dd image in macOS? Using testdisk, I have made what is apparently a dd image of a single HFS+ partition (what was originially /dev/disk1s2, I think).

Now I try to mount this image file, but seemingly I cannot - even if file recognizes it as a HFS partition:

me@my-iMac:~$ hdiutil attach -imagekey diskimage-class=CRawDiskImage -nomount /Volumes/Test/image.dd
/dev/disk2

me@my-iMac:~$ hdiutil mount /dev/disk2
hdiutil: mount failed - no mountable file systems

me@my-iMac:~$ hdiutil imageinfo /Volumes/Test/image.dd
hdiutil: imageinfo failed - image not recognized

me@my-iMac:~$ file /Volumes/Test/image.dd
/Volumes/Test/image.dd: Macintosh HFS Extended version 4 data (mounted) last mounted by: 'HFSJ', created: Wed Jul  4 14:32:40 2018, last modified: Thu Jul 19 09:07:22 2018, last checked: Wed Jul  4 10:32:40 2018, block size: 8192, number of blocks: 366241334, free blocks: 365063585

Is it possible to somehow mount this partition image in macOS/OSX as read/write?

This doesn't answer the exact question, but the following has worked for me to mount a dd msdos image as read-only (-o ro).
$ hdiutil attach -nomount /Users/sunknudsen/Desktop/boot-clean.img
/dev/disk2

$ mkdir -p ~/Desktop/boot-clean
$ mount -o ro -t msdos /dev/disk2 ~/Desktop/boot-clean


Generate all Calendar.app icons I'd like to get all 366 possible icons that Calendar would have displayed in the Dock.

How can you automate the creation of each of these, either in Bash or Automator?

You should avoid using Apple's artwork for your own projects or where you need to re-distribute the files. Apple's legal department may have an opinion.

Rather than copy Apple's artwork, create your own. There are numerous collections of calendar artwork that you can build upon.

Use a scriptable tool like Gimp, Inkscape, or ImageMagick to create all 366 variations.


Playing youtube playlist I can access the youtube Playlist with the default youtube application on an iOS device by tapping "More" then "Playlists", but how can I play those lists? When I tap on a playlist, it shows the list of videos included in it, and I can only play them individually one at a time. I want to play the whole list continuously. I don't connect my device (iPod Touch 4) to a computer, so I cannot use a solution that uses iTunes.

There is no way you could do that, I have that problem also.
You could try to send YouTube a feature request, but I won't think they will do that as Google now owns YouTube and Google and Apple aren't exactly the best friends...
But you coud try :)

Download the google app.  Next open the google app on your iphone and type "youtube" into the search bar.  Click youtube.com search result to open the youtube website and it will automatically open the mobile version.
Now you can play playlists and use all of youtubes functionality on your iphone.


Are there any physical differences between regional versions of the iPhone 4s? I'm in the market for an iPhone 4S to replace my older iPhone and iPod. If I took a Christmas holiday in America, the cost of a US phone is substantially less than a UK phone at current exchange rates.

However, there's a possibility that there's physical differences between the UK model and the US version that would make the US version impractical in the UK.  I know that the range of bands used for cellular comms in the UK differs somewhat from in the US.

So, is the iPhone 4S built to only a single design that can handle the differing frequencies used throughout Apple's main markets, meaning that a SIM-free one will work anywhere regardless of where it was bought?  Or is each model tailored to a particular region's cellular specifications, making a US bought iPhone all but useless in the UK?

The iPhone 4S is the same in every country. The only notable change is the default language configured on the device. And firmware/software locks for carrier or country locked phones.

The important difference is that apparently the unlocked iPhone 4S in the US will not be supposed to work on CDMA networks (rumor) for undisclosed reasons. It is probably due to the primitive way CDMA phones are activated by CDMA carriers.

Obviously the packaging changes (depending on the region). Also the power brick is different depending on the country for example in Europe except British territories the power plug uses Type C plugs while UK uses Type B and the US have Type A plugs.

All the iPhone 4S will "supposedly" have she same internals and the same firmwares. There are no other differences while the iPhone 4 has different firmwares for CDMA and GSM as there have been no variants for the iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS models which were the same across the globe.

BUT beware of the term unlocked. It doesn't mean the phone is not SIM-locked. In some countries (I have in mind the case of the iPhone 3G in Canada) unlocked can mean not locked for the country carriers. Which means it is regionally SIM-locked, if you try to use it with any of the countries' carriers it will work, but if you try to use it with a SIM from another country or an international SIM, it will be locked.

The only difference is it is .1 oz heavier than the iPhone 4, everything is still the same. And I believe that is across the world.

http://www.apple.com/iphone/specs.html  <-- iPhone 4s

http://support.apple.com/kb/SP587 <--- iPhone 4


iPhone 4 unable to connect to any Google service on Wi-Fi Today I found my iPhone 4 (iOS 7.1.2) is unable to connect specifically to any Google service (Search, Google.com or YouTube) when on Wi-Fi.

Any other website will load.

I get the message "Safari cannot open the page because it could not create a secure connection to the server".

All other browsers show a similar error - Google Chrome says: ERR_CONNECTION_CLOSED.

All my other devices on the Wi-Fi network work with Google ... my Win8 PC, my Android Tablet and Smart TV.

I have tried resetting network settings but with no luck.

Anyone else had this problem?

It might be related to the DNS on the iPhone.

Go to Settings -> Wi-Fi -> And Connect to your home Wi-Fi Network

Now:

Touch on the "i" icon on the right;
Where it says DNS edit the value for: 8.8.4.4
Go Back to the Wi-Fi networks listing and wait to confirm that the blue tick appears on the left.

This DNS address is from Google, so it will work with everything Google related but also outside of Google universe.
I've set that address for all my DNS addresses in every machine I use and never had a problem.

Same appeared here for me in Sydney, Australia, less than 20h ago.
Four cases:

1) Safari on Two iOS7 devices, iphone 4S and iPad 3, can't load Google pages (" ... can't create secure connection ...") when connected to my home WiFi.
All other sites (non-Google) that I tried load ok over the same WiFi.

2) iPhone was then switched to 3G (cell network) and Safari loads Google stuff, no problem.

3) two other devices, iPhone5 and iPad4, both on iOS8, load Google stuff OK over the same WiFi.

4) iPod Touch 2ndG iOS4 - Safari loads Google OK over same WiFi.

All devices have DNS set same way and nothing was changed on those devices in that respect for long time nor iOS has been updated for quite some time.

And tried just now, 20h later, iOS7 devices load Google stuff OK! haven't done any changes on my devices nor WiFi.

Can't explained what happened. But just for the record.


Does an iOS app have the ability to set iOS Safari cookies? My specific interest is in the context of the Facebook for iOS app, but it can be asked of an iOS app really.

Given all the recent changes to Facebook and the way that Facebook cookies are not cleared when you log out of Facebook I've become keenly interested in knowing how my access patterns to Facebook can result in tracking cookies sticking to me.

What I'd like to know is: if I use an iOS application, like the Facebook for iOS application, can I end up with session cookies set in iOS Safari that relate to Facebook? Or are all login cookies related to Facebook completely contained to just the Facebook application?

The iOS security sandbox prevents App store apps from writing to the Safari app's data directories, including wherever Safari writes cookies.


How can I see if my ipad 3 has been hacked? does anyone have a clue on how can I see with evidence if someone has been hacked my ipad 3. I had connected it with an iphone 3 in the past, which wasn't mine. Is there any chance they can move into my system and any ideas on how to see that?

Thank you in advance

There isn't a practical way for your iPad to be hacked and/or for the system to be moved into, at least without physical access or a jailbreak running.

They could, however, get your Apple ID password if it's not particularly strong or if you reuse the same password on multiple websites, and that can give them access to backups, your calendar, location via Find my iDevice, among other things. If you secure your Apple ID and you haven't jailbroken, then you'll be just fine.

It's highly unlikely that you'll ever have your system accessed because of Apple's review process for apps and the sandboxing requirements imposed on them.

I am a hacker. As I know, if you have connected your iPad with a iPhone through iCloud with the same Apple ID, someone with your Apple ID can get all your information including password saved in safari/chrome and other details. But still, a hacker cannot "move into your iPad"  like remote control your iPad or delete all your data, there is no exploit for this available. The only evidence of someone "hack" into your iPad is to see if you lost any data or you got some mysterious email sent using your account.

The best way to avoid being "hack" is never tell others your password and often change your password. If you still think your iPad have been hacked, full restore your iPad and use a new Apple ID.

Extra: A group of hacker have developed a technic that can hack your iOS device with a mod charger. So never use a charger that you don't recognise.


How to recover data from iPhone backup files WITHOUT the info.plist, status.plist, manifest.plist, manifest.mbdb, and manifest.mbdx files? I have iTunes 10.5 and Mac OS X version 10.6.8.

I would like to restore my iPhone from backup.

iTunes detects all my backups EXCEPT one, which happens to be the backup I want.

I looked in the backup directory (~/library/application support/mobilesync/backup) and IT IS THERE along with the other backups. HOWEVER, unlike the other backups, it's missing five files: info.plist, status.plist, manifest.plist, manifest.mbdb, and manifest.mbdx.

I have tried applications that can extract data, like the free iPhone Backup Extractor for example, but they work only if I have the five files.

Is there a way to recover data without the five files?

It depends whether the remaining files you have are from an encrypted backup.

It won't be feasible to read your backup data if you have an encrypted backup with no Info.plist, Status.plist, or Manifest.mbdx files

However, if your backup wasn't encrypted, it will be possible to read that data. You'll find that whilst the filenames are unhelpful (they're SHA-1 hashes of the file's internal path), the file contents easily readable. It's only the filenames that'll be lost.

If you're looking for images, try renaming a bunch of the files to have .JPG extensions, and see whether Windows Explorer or macOS Finder previews them for you.

There are a few approaches for digging into what's there in bulk. You mentioned using iPhone Backup Extractor, and there's a guide on how a use "Bulk Rename Utility" to read backup data when in this situation.

Directly restoring from iTunes backup, you have no choice by restoring the entire backup. It's the rule from Apple. But if you still need to do this, you can choose to find an iTunes backup extract tool, which is usually used to extract the iTunes backup file. Then you can preview and selectively recover whatever you want from it.