Wi-Fi has stopped working around the time 10.7.3 update. Might they be related? I have a MacBook Air which was working fine. Now I have awful network issues since the 10.7.3 update.

My home router is a D-Link DIR-615. I was securing the Wi-Fi network using WEP which worked great on Windows 7/XP/Vista, Ubuntu, iOS, and Mac OS X Lion.

Then I installed the 10.7.3 update on my MacBook Air and the Wi-FI stopped functioning on it. I started to receiving error messages saying, "Select a certificate and enter username and password". I googled this and decided to switch to WPA security since is more secure and though this issue would be resolved. Easily done. No more error messages, internet is working fine everywhere...except on the MacBook Air.

Now when I attempt to connect to Wi-Fi on my MacBook Air, it attempts to connect to my network and connects but gives the error message "Alert: No Internet connection". I checked and it is not getting an IP address. After two minutes or so, it receives a proper IP address, but the internet is not working. Sites simply won't load. When I try to ping my router, I get timeout messages. I have verified that my DNS settings are correct.

Here's what I've already tried:

Turning firewall on/off/on again
Removed Wi-Fi configuration from System Preferences > Network, and added them again
Rebooted my router (several times)
Cleared /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration folder
Installed 10.7.3 combo update

All other Wi-FI devices on my network work with no issues. It's just the MacBook Air that is having this problem.

From what I've seen - this seems to be more a network routing issue than a hardware / link level problem. The first step is to narrow down if it's a network issue or a hardware issue.

In Finder, Shift+Command+G Go to the folder /System/Library/CoreServices and run the two Lion diagnostic tools to assist in narrowing down your problems.

Wi-Fi Diagnostics
Network Diagnostics

Once you have narrowed down the issue, you can ask a second, more detailed question on how to solve a failing step X in diagnostic Y if you still need help in getting this sorted.

This process was used (as described in the comments) to determine that Little Snitch and the existing firewall were causing the network issues.

I have read a billion posts everywhere and I haven't see anyone try this. I went into my wireless router (Linksys) with 192.168.2.1/Basic setup and with the DHCP reservation button I made a reservation with my mac address and selected an IP of 192.168.2.140 (there are PCs on my network and an Xbox) my Mac kept getting bucked along with their laptops and the Xbox. My mac is the only machine with a reservation so the PCs and Xbox can randomly choose anything between .100 and .149. Doing any of that crap in network/system pref just fixes the problem for a day if you are lucky, a minute if you are most people. I tried everything and this has actually seemed to work.


How can I set up a keyboard shortcut for switching input source? I have to change my language option very often. It is hard when I write something with combination of both "English" & "Bangla", because I have to change that option rapidly.

Is there any way to set a keyboard shortcut, so that I can change my language option by it while typing?

I am using MacBook Pro with OS X.

Here is a screen shot:

Screen Shot of my Preference:

Go to System Preferences → Keyboard → Shortcuts → Input Sources and define a keyboard shortcut there. As you only have two sources, set a single shortcut for one of the options, then pressing the shortcut will toggle the input sources.

Open System Preference and click language and text instead of keyboard. You can find input source there.


How to subscribe to particular IMAP folders in Mac Mail I use Mac Mail to work with an IMAP account. Is it possible to subscribe only to a set of folders, e.g., synchronize only the folder "current" and all its subfolders, but not the folder "archive"? I tried right-click on folder > Account Information > Abonnements/Subscriptions but there no folders are listed.

I had this same issue. I am using Mail version 8.2.

I found this to be a fix for me.

When I create a new account in Mac Mail, it shows the account name under "Inbox."

Under that account name are four folders - Sent, Drafts, Junk, and Trash.

You have to click on one folder at a time to highlight it, then in the top menu, select Mailbox > Use This Mailbox As > and select the correct mailbox (Sent, Drafts, Junk, or Trash).

When I did this, my Sent, Trash, Junk, and Draft folders that were under my email account name, moved under the "Main" Sent, Trash, Junk, and Draft sections. It took a second or two for them to sync to the server and not show a warning sign next to the folder name.

Under Mail > Preferences > Accounts > Advanced, I left the IMAP Path Prefix blank. I did change the Port from 143 to 993, checked the Use SSL box, and set the Authentication to Password. I used these settings because they match what my host provider provided me to use for my Incoming Server settings. I'm not sure this mattered or not.

You're missing the point.  You can't select a folder to use for those classifications if you can't see it in the first place.


How can I delete VMWare from my MacBook Air? I installed VMware on my MacBook Air (running OS X Lion) and now want to delete it. I dragged VMware into the trash and tried emptying it, but a popup notes that The operation can’t be completed because the item “VMware Fusion” is in use.

I tried pressing command + option + esc but could not see VMware open. I am confused about how VMware is in use.

Here is how you remove VMWare Fusion as referenced here from VMWare: Manually uninstalling VMware Fusion

  Fusion 4.x

  In Fusion 4.x, there is no uninstaller. Most Fusion files are contained within the application bundle (that is, the Fusion application in /Applications). To uninstall Fusion 4.x, drag the application bundle from the Applications folder to the Trash.

  Also, ensure to delete these additional files and folders if they are present.

  Note: Depending on the environment, some of these files may not be present. Some files may exist only if Fusion 3 was originally installed on the machine that was later upgraded to Fusion 4.

  /Library/Application Support/VMware Fusion
  /Users/Library/Preferences/VMware Fusion
  /Library/Preferences/VMware\ Fusion
  ~/Library/Caches/com.vmware.fusion
  ~/Library/Application\ Support/VMware\ Fusion
  ~/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusion.LSSharedFileList.plist
  ~/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusion.LSSharedFileList.plist.lockfile
  ~/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusion.plist
  ~/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusion.plist.lockfile
  ~/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusionDaemon.plist
  ~/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusionDaemon.plist.lockfile

  Note: In Lion, the Library folder inside your user directory is hidden by default. To access your Library folder:

  Click the Finder icon.
  While holding the Option key, click the Go menu. This reveals your Library folder.

You can run the shell script below. The bash version of the script below will also serve the same purpose.

#!/usr/bin/env bash
# Usage: sudo sh ./uninstall_vmware.sh
remove() {
  entry="$1"

  echo -ne "Removing \e[1;34m$entry\e[0m... "
  sudo rm -rf "$entry" &> /tmp/uninstall-vmware.log

  if [[ ! -e "$entry" ]]; then
    echo -e "\e[1;32mOK\e[0m"
  else
    echo -e "\e[1;31mFAILED\e[0m"
  fi
}

remove "/Applications/VMware Fusion.app"
remove "/Library/Application Support/VMware"
remove "/Library/Application Support/VMware Fusion"
remove "/Library/Preferences/VMware Fusion"
remove "/private/var/root/Library/Logs/VMware"
remove "/private/var/db/vmware"
remove "/Library/Logs/VMware/"
remove "/private/var/run/vmware"
remove "/private/var/run/VMware Fusion Services.lock"
remove "/private/var/run/VMware Fusion Services.sock"
remove "/private/var/root/Library/Preferences/VMware Fusion"
remove "$HOME/Library/Application Support/VMware Fusion"
remove "$HOME/Library/Caches/com.vmware.fusion"
remove "$HOME/Library/Preferences/VMware Fusion"
remove "$HOME/Library/Logs/VMware"
remove "$HOME/Library/Preferences/VMware Fusion"
remove "$HOME/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusion.LSSharedFileList.plist"
remove "$HOME/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusion.plist"
remove "$HOME/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusionStartMenu.plist"
remove "$HOME/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusion.LSSharedFileList.plist"
remove "$HOME/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusion.LSSharedFileList.plist.lockfile"
remove "$HOME/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusion.plist"
remove "$HOME/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusion.plist.lockfile"
remove "$HOME/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusionDaemon.plist"
remove "$HOME/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusionDaemon.plist.lockfile"
remove "$HOME/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusionStartMenu.plist"
remove "$HOME/Library/Preferences/com.vmware.fusionStartMenu.plist.lockfile"


Delete all events in iCal How can I delete all events in iCal? I have a bunch of events (some reoccurring) that I want to delete. I don't want to have to manually delete/cut each event.

I tried declining the events but that just turns them gray.

I'm running OS X 10.6.6.

Applescript:

tell application "iCal"
   tell calendar "My Calendar" -- your calendar here
      set theEvents to every event
      repeat with current_event in theEvents
         delete current_event
      end repeat
   end tell
end tell

I solved it by deleting ~/Library/Calendars as suggested in here.


Cannot change region of Apple ID without credit card details I have an iPhone 6s Plus. I want to change the country and region but I'm being asked to enter my credit card details, with no other option.

What should I do? Is there an option without entering credit details and changing the store to US?

This Apple support article explains that a valid payment method is always required when changing regions.

  When you change the country or region of an existing Apple ID, you must provide a payment method and update your billing options. If you want to remove your payment method after you change the country or region, you can change your payment information to None.

You may be able to set up a new Apple ID for a different region without entering credit card information, but any apps purchased (whether free or not) with that Apple ID would require that Apple ID be signed in to get updates.

To create a new account without a payment method, go to the App Store, iBooks Store or iTunes Store on your device. Tap Get on any free item and follow the steps for setting up a new account. When prompted for a payment method, None should be on the list. If it's not, you must enter a payment method.

I believe its not possible to change to region B once you have set up a credit card in region A unless you have a credit card that is valid in B (or at least thats how I think it works) however i'd expect that apple support can probably change your region for you.

As a small side note, if you don't have a credit card associated with your account you can change region as much as you want (unless you have unused balance)

TL;DR:

I don't think its possible, ask apple support.

Edit #1:
Decided to quickly google this. Here is a link that probably does a better job at explaining than me. Support.apple.com


Automatically hide sidebar in preview I recently upgraded to El Capitan.
Whenever I open an pdf file of more than 1 pages, Preview opens the sidebar. Is there a way to permanently disable it?

I was able to get this to work on 10.11.1 by adding a new key to the Preview.app plist.

  PVPDFSuppressSidebarOnOpening

You can use the defaults write command to do this in Terminal.

cd ~/Library/Containers/com.apple.Preview/Data/Library/Preferences/

defaults write com.apple.Preview PVPDFSuppressSidebarOnOpening true

I needed to use

defaults write com.apple.Preview PVPDFSuppressSidebarOnOpening 1

for it to work.


How to block an application (facebook, messages) in Self Control I figured out how to do a while ago, but simply can't remember- how do I block computer applications such as twitter, facebook, and messages in self control?

You cannot block apps, as hinted in a github issue on their repository, only websites.

Onefocus is a similar app that seems to be able to do it. I have never tried it nor have any affiliation with it, so I cannot attest to its quality.

You just click the "edit blacklist" button add the websites. Pretty simple.


Can't delete iCloud account from Mail, Contacts, Calendars When trying to log into iCloud from System Preferences, I'm told

  [appleid] is already signed in to iCloud

  To use this as your primary iCloud account, delete it from Mail, Contacts,
  and Calendars and sign in again.

However, I can't delete the account from Mail, Contacts and Calendars.  When I go to that preference pane, I'm prompted for my iCloud password, after which I'm told the account isn't verified.  Checking at http://appleid.apple.com shows that the account is verified. Requesting that another verification email be sent is met with the following error:

  Couldn't request a new verification email because of a server error.

Any ideas how to delete the account from Mail, Contacts and Calendars? I've deleted all other mail accounts. Removed the mail folders and plist files from ~/Library/. Rebooted.  Tried adding a different apple id.  Tried everything I could find from Google that looked even close.  No luck.  Help!

I had the same problem. Fixed it by turning off all sharing (the checkbox options on the right of the panel), THEN trying to delete again.


Run multiple instances of the same version of Firefox with different profiles simultaneously I have an existing installation of Firefox. I've been using this installation for a long time so theres a lot of data (history, bookmark, browser preferences, addon preferences).

Now I want to split this data (browser history, bookmarks, some settings) with the result that some data is only accessable by instance #1 and the other data is only accessable by instance #2. I know that I have to delete most unwanted data manually but thats ok.

My first thought was to clone the profile but I figured out that there are many spots where the actual profile name is hardcoded. The second possibility I see is that I add another installation of the same Firefox version to my system and transfer the profile to the new installation.

Is there a way to do that? Or is there an alternative solution?

Your question is asking for something technically possible, in that it may be possble to "split" data in your profile, and distribute it among other profiles, but it sounds incredibly difficult to do considering what you would you gain doing this manually, as opposed to simply setting up new profiles and entering the data you wish into each new profile, and deleting the data from the other profile.

To accomplish everything you're asking for (except this splitting of the original profile data) is largely academic. The basic idea is have multiple profiles, and have multiple instances of Firefox each accessing a different profile. The way you do that is you first set up the multiple profiles, and you can do this by accessing the Profile Manager. Open your /Applications/Utilities/Terminal.app and type this at the command prompt:

 /Applications/Firefox.app/Contents/MacOS/firefox-bin -profilemanager &

and the window that appears, along with information at the link provided above, will get you started on creating the extra profiles. Once these profiles are created, you can start the first instance of Firefox by clicking the Start Firefox button, and you can then launch your subsequent instances of Firefox using that same command. Again, in Terminal.app type the following:

 /Applications/Firefox.app/Contents/MacOS/firefox-bin -profilemanager &

and you will see a second instance of Firefox appear in your dock. Choose the profile you wish for the second Firefox instance, and click Start Firefox. Repeat these steps (pressing the up arrow will display the last command) for as many instances of Firefox that you wish to run, or until you run out of memory.

I know this is an old question but it deserves an answer. Since Apple introduced Mavericks they managed to break the ability of running multiple copies of Firefox side by side. I used to have this working on Lion perfectly and since Mavericks it will not work as it's impossible to launch the same application more than once. I spent nearly 5 days on El-Capitan figuring this out as no tutorials out there worked at all and I found a solution that works for me and I am using it everyday running 4 copies of Firefox side by side, each with their own profile, own plugins and they all update separately from each other. My solution will work on Mavericks, Yosemite, El-Capitan and also Sierra which is what I am running on now.


In which .plist is the underscan setting stored? I'm trying to write a script which changes the underscan value on my Mac mini, but I haven't found the .plist file containing the setting.

Does anyone know where the underscan setting is saved?

I found the settings file by using the terminal command opensnoop to monitor all files accessed by any programm and found that the file that stores the underscan setting is here:

/var/db/.com.apple.iokit.graphics

I don't know - but I do use the free EasyFind (by DevonTech) that will search everything on your machine, every aspect of search.


How can I monitor the FPS in OSX? I'm looking for a solution to monitor the refresh rate of the OSX.

In several reviews like this one about the retina Macbook Pro by Anandtech they report actual fps to discuss the performance of scrolling in Safari in Lion vs Mountain Lion.

What tool are they using to monitor the fps? What similar tool like this can you recommend?

The tool being used in the screen shot is "Quartz Debug"

It is part of Apple's free Graphics Tools for Xcode.

To get this app:

download Xcode from the Mac App Store.
Open Xcode and select Xcode > Open Developer Tool > More Developer Tools...
This takes you to Apple's developer download site.  You will need to register a free developer account to proceed.
Select "Graphics Tools for Xcode" to download a disk image with the tools.
Open the dmg and you can copy out "Quartz Debug" to your computer.

Running Quartz Debug should show the FPS meter.  It has various options which allow tweaking of Quartz settings.

Count It can display the FPS count in OpenGL applications/games.


Icons not appearing on High Sierra I updated to High Sierra on my Macbook Pro when it was released.
Since I have updated, a lot of my applications show the attached icon when I open them.
Does anyone know a fix to this?

Give this a try.

sudo find /private/var/folders/ -name com.apple.iconservices -exec rm -rf {} \;
sudo rm -rf /Library/Caches/com.apple.iconservices.store
killall Dock

After running the commands, I had to remove the app from the dock and add it again. It worked for me but YMMV.

I had the same problem - reboot your mac in safe mode and then it will resolve itself


Can't install apps from App Store on iPhone with iOS 7 I upgraded my iPhone 4 to iOS 7 last night but now I can't download apps using the App Store on my iPhone. It's still possible to get the apps using iTunes on my computer and syncing my phone, but this is cumbersome.

I get errors as shown below:

  Unable to Purchase
  [app name] could not be purchased at this time. Please try again later.

Is this a known issue, and how can I rectify it?

I would suggest trying the following options:

Press and hold the power button and the home button until the Apple logo appears. Once it restarts, try downloading.
Reset your router from which you are accessing your Wi-Fi.
If the issue persists, trying downloading apps from a different Wi-Fi network or cellular data.
If these fail, Reset Network Settings (Settings > General > Reset) and do steps 2 and 3.
If the issue still persists, Reset All Settings (Settings > General > Reset) and try again.
As a last resort, take your phone to an Apple Store.

just goto settings and switch off the wifi and switch it on. I used 3G network i did that switch off and on, the problem reolved.


What do you think about Apple's Ping service? Personally, I have not signed up the Ping service that is included in iTunes 10.  My main reason for avoiding it is the fact that Apple requires you to use your real, full name for registration.

What are your opinions of the service?

pros/cons
privacy or security concerns?
things you wish they had done/not done
things you'd like to see added
things you'd like to see removed

*note: this question is serious but also meant as a sort of experiment to see if a discussion question can be useful or relevant on the site. if you hate it or don't want any sort of discussion other than the occasional list question, vote to close but please post a comment explaining your reasoning

Primarily, I don't understand the purpose.  I don't know a single person in the world whose musical taste I trust, or that I think is similar to mine.  I've seen last.fm, facebook, twitter, etc., and they've taught me to ignore musical recommendations.

Malcolm Gladwell wrote a New Yorker article about how social network links have so little value because they're so easy.  I might get 50 musical recommendations on facebook this week, and I'd only have to click twice to listen, and I'm not going to listen to any of them.  But when the guy who lives next door hears me listening to Brahms, and stops in and says "You might like this other thing too!", and brings me a CD, I'll put it in my stereo and listen to it 2 or 3 times.

Second, the interesting music I'd want to share is largely not on iTunes.  It's the bootleg of some Asian singer whose recording you can't get here yet (and maybe never).  It's the Youtube video of some guy you kind of know playing at a club downtown last week.  It's the out-of-print-for-40-years LP on my shelf of an incredible and rare recording of a popular group, that I got at a garage sale once for $4.  It's the MP3 preview that some up-and-coming composer dropped on his blog to show you what he's doing.

Like everything Apple seems to do these days, Ping is probably great if you only care about recent mainstream name-brand consumer goods.  (Lady Gaga at the announcement!)  From a couple of longhairs who started out selling devices to let you make phone calls without paying, Apple has really turned into a company that doesn't care for the fringe -- even the legal fringe.

Third, it's part of iTunes.  Back in 2003, I thought iTunes was awesome.  These days, it's got so much crap in it, I don't even know how to do all the things I used to know how to do.  It's confusing and frustrating and I use it as little as possible -- only for feeding my iPod, for things that can't be loaded directly.  (iPods have gotten a lot more complex and confusing since 2003, too, but there's pretty much no competition in this space.)  So Ping would have to be pretty awesome for me to want to use iTunes more than once every couple weeks, and it's not.

So if I wanted to do something that I don't, but can do already in better ways, but now do it in an app I hate instead of on the web ... I guess Ping would be for me.

You know what would be a better thing to put in iTunes, since apparently it's no longer just about "tunes"?  Recipes!  I need to keep track of them somewhere, and iTunes might be better than a bunch of text files.  Plus, I actually do trust food recommendations from friends, so Ping-for-Recipes would actually be worth something to me.

Remove: ping

Add: Facebook

Instead of trying to create a new social network (which people are quite reluctant to change) they should have partnered with Facebook. Or at least tied into Facebook so that you could find friends using Facebook.


Could Not load Date & Time preference pane I am getting weird time in my click (attached is the screenshot)

And it's not letting me change my time and giving me error "Could Not load Date & Time preference pane"

Any idea what's going on? Because of this error lots of app have stopped working such as chrome, sublime etc. My suspicion is that it has been corrupted by MAMP but can't confirm.

Thanks.

I solved this problem by opening Disk Utility and selecting "Repair Disk Permissions" in OS X 10.9.  I had used     chown    to change permissions and messed up my preference pane apparently.

There are multiple things that could cause this issue.

For the first one, the notorious, but (sometimes) helpful chown.
If you have run terminal, and used chown to attempt to fix a system error, such as sudo not running due to it not being 'run as root' on an administrator account, you may have royally screwed over your PC. Yea, I did that exact thing once. I had to back up my files and wipe the disk.

And second on the list is attempting to change the user ID. This will mangle your PC's filesystem, and also require either a $250 PC repair bill, or another system wipe.

Last but not least, think, have you downloaded ANY programs from the internet? If so, what are they? There aren't many 'viruses', so to speak, for macs (yet), however, during a package installation, when it says 'Running Scripts', that may also mean 'Running chown and changing system files to the point of corruption', or even one of the many other destructive commands.

The third is more than likely the cause of your problems, as most users of any PC run into problems just by downloading a 'clean looking' program. 7 system wipes later, I still haven't learned that... ANYhoo, I hope your problem is solvable without wiping the system!

In the case that any of these did happen, the first thing to do would be to run disk utility from the launchpad, click on 'Macintosh HD' or whatever your drive name is, then click 'repair disk permissions'. If this doesn't help, you may be in for a system wipe, unless either you can fix it, or you pay a professional to fix it.


How can I move Contacts from Exchange to the From My Mac groups? I have discovered that some personal contacts that I'd created (using the iPhone's built-in Contacts app) were created in the Exchange (business) group.  How can I move them over to the "From My Mac" contacts?  (Preferably into one of the Address Book Groups that I've created there.)

And how can I prevent this from happening in the future (perhaps by specifying which group to use when creating a contact)?

I have an iPhone 4 running iOS 5.1.  Jail-breaking is not an option.  The iPhone syncs to iTunes on a Macbook Air running OS X 10.5.8.

Unfortunately, iPhone Groups are not meant to be edited from within the iPhone Contacts app. You can try copy iPhone contacts from one group to the next using a third-party program designed to access your iPhone Contacts app from a PC.

The only way to manage groups on the iPhone is though the iCloud web interface.

Go to www.icloud.com and sign in
Click the Contacts icon
Click the red icon with two people toward the top
Click and drag contacts into different groups as desired
When you're done, click the gear icon at the bottom
Click Refresh Contacts
In the Contacts app (on iPhone), go to the Groups screen and click the reload button.


How to restore iPhone contacts lost after an app crash? After a crash/reboot I lost all contacts on my iPhone.

I have an iTunes backup, but it is several months old. The iPhone was set to sync with my Windows Contacts list, but it also appears to not have been modified for several months. iCloud wasn't ever enabled.

How can I get (most of) my contacts back onto my phone?

A normal iTunes restores all data types at once, which means loosing all non-contacts data I added since the last backup.

I tried an iPhone recovery tool without any success already (Wondershare Dr.Fone; it has many clones, published across several pseudo-"how-to" sites: Asoftech iPhone Data Recovery; Recovery-Android: "Restore iPhone from Backup" and "Restore iPhone from Backup"; iPhone-iPad Recovery). The tool found no contacts at all, although correctly displayed deleted items of all other types available on iPhone.

Is it possible to either pull contacts only from iTunes backup file and restore those, or just sync my existing (although possibly out of date) contacts from Windows? Are there other tools which have chances to recover directly from iPhone storage, even if Dr.Fone failed? Any other ideas?

I found how to make iTunes restore only contacts, while preserving the rest intact:

run iTunes before connecting iPhone
disable auto-syncing in preferences: Edit > Preferences > Devices > Prevent iPods, iPhones, and iPads from syncing automatically should be switched On
connect iPhone to PC. In iTunes:
on the Sidebar, select your iPhone (press Ctrl-S if Sidebar is hidden)
on the top central menu (Summary | Info | Apps | Music | ...), click Info
scroll the page to bottom, there's Advanced section
switch on: Replace information on this phone > Contacts
click Apply in the bottom right of iTunes window (or right click on iPhone and choose Sync)

These steps wipe the local contact store on iPhone (leaving cloud contact sync alone, if applicable) and injects all the contacts stored in the PC-side data source that iTunes has selected (from Windows Contacts in my case; Outlook on Windows / Contacts on Mac in other setups) and pushes those contacts to the device. It does not load contacts from an iOS backup.

If you backup with iTunes and you restored from the backup and the notes were gone, then there is no where to retrieve them from unless you have another backup that contains those notes.

Launch iTunes on the computer and go to iTunes>Preferences>Devices. You will see a window with all of your backups listed in it.

If you see a recent backup that you are certain contains the notes that you need, recover deleted notes from iPhone backup.

If your note is gone from iCloud.com there is only a few ways to possibly recover it.

The first things I would check is a iCloud Backup, a iTunes Backup, or a 3rd party email that may have contained the note. To restore from a iCloud or iTunes backup follow this link. This article explains how to restore a device from either back up.

Note if you have backed up since the note went missing, you will not have the note on the backup. Make sure you do not back up if trying to restore from a back up as this will back up the content without the note.

To get to the "Set up assistant" on an iOS device, you must go to Settings>General>Reset>Erase All Content and Settings. Once the phone restarts, you will be at the "Set up Assistant"


How Do I Remove Duplicate Apps From Launchpad? I have three copies of Skype. How do I remove them from Launchpad?

First make sure you don't really have three copies of the Application. You can use spotlight to clean out any duplicates and keep one copy of the application mounted.

Once that is resolved, you can delete the duplicates from Launchpad one by one; if they all go, just reinstall Skype.

You can also force Launchpad to recreate its database, if it is corrupt, or just to refresh the apps alphabetically by using this hack:

run Terminal
execute sudo rm ~/Library/Application\ Support/Dock/*.db
execute sudo killall Dock to restart Dock and Launchpad

Just be aware that you will use any user-defined grouping/sorting etc. this way.

Another wonderful high-level (and safe with undos and backups) GUI solution is Launchpad control, which is a system preference panel.

Search for the app in your Finder by typing in the name of the app into the Search box in the upper right hand corner.  For example, if you have three Gmail apps which you are attempting to remove, type in Gmail.  All the apps with that name will appear.  Search for the apps you want to delete and drag them into the trash.  It is really THAT easy.


Utility to move windows as a group for Mac OS X? Is there a utility for Mac OS X that will group windows (2 separate apps)? Similar to how objects are grouped in PowerPoint or other design apps. I would like both windows to move together.

There are 5 apps on the App Store that match the search term "arrange windows" and I have heard good things about three of them (in reverse aplhabetical order):

WindowTiler
Cinch
BetterSnapTool

The one I use is also on the app store, but doesn't show in that search term but it's fabulous.

Divvy

X-Assist.
However it seems to be an old app.


Move through images in a folder with Preview.app When looking at an image in a directory with the Preview application, I'm used to the Windows behaviour of using the ←/→ keys to move through all the other viewable images in that directory.

Preview.app doesn't do this - I first have to select all the images and then open Preview.app. This is a little annoying.

Is there something I can turn on or install to get this behaviour?

Also, how do I open an image in a new instance of Preview.app, say for comparison purposes?

If you are just skimming the pictures do this:

Instead of opening a picture in Preview.app by double-clicking it, just press space to preview the picture when selected in Finder.

This way you can still use the arrow keys to navigate between the pictures.

↑ and ↓ in list view
↑,↓,← and → in icon view

You can still open the picture in Preview.app when needed (top right corner).

You can use Hot Simple Image Viewer

It has keyboard shortcuts you are looking for.


Does the iPhone 6 "CPU-throttling" feature stop after the battery is replaced? There is recent news (acknowledged by Apple) of a feature in some software versions of iOS that reduces the current usage of the iPhone6 and 6S when the battery ages and is less able to supply current, and this makes sense. It tries to prevent the phone from suddenly shutting down when the battery can not supply the required current.

I've suffered from those shut-downs first hand by trying to get the last few weeks out of a clearly-dead battery - which is unadvisable to say the least!

Is it known for a fact if this feature reinstates the phone to original performance and speed after the battery is replaced?

It seems that the CPU throttling will stop once device's battery is replaced.
In a statment to TechCrunch, Apple says they will throttle devices "only when needed."

  Last year we released a feature for iPhone 6, iPhone 6s and iPhone SE to smooth out the instantaneous peaks only when needed to prevent the device from unexpectedly shutting down during these conditions.

As this happens "only when needed," replacing the battery should stop CPU throttling from happening. Explaining his experience with the same issue, Forbes contributor Antony Leather says that performance did increase on his iPhone 6 after replacing the battery.

  My iPhone 6 was a prime candidate - I had actually replaced the
  battery myself a couple of years ago, but I'm a heavy user and already
  noticed its longevity had started to decrease again...

  Finally, I replaced the battery with a new one from Amazon, charged it
  to be well away from the low power mode level and re-ran the test. The
  difference was incredible. The single core score rose from 1038 to
  1562 - an increase of precisely 50%.

Check out Forbes' Boost Your iPhone Speed By 50%: How To Replace The Battery And Stop Apple Degrading Performance

Check out this excerpt from How-To Geek's You can Speed Up You Slow iPhone by Replacing the Battery, which suggests that replacing the battery will improve performance.

  If your phone is indeed slowing down as a result of poor battery health, replacing the battery will give your phone new life. Not only will you get a longer-lasting battery by replacing an old one, but your phone should jump back up to its top speed.

I replaced the battery on my iPhone 6s and the cpu is still throttled at 600 MHz.  Run a cpu MHz year after swap and you will see the truth that it’s the software update that is the issue.


Internet sharing via WiFi won't work (BSS stopping) I'm trying to start internet sharing on my mac mini (share ethernet to wifi).
Until a few days ago, it worked fine, and suddenly stopped working.

I'm pretty sure my "graphical" config is fine (with the System settings app). But there's something strange in the /var/log/wifi.log.

Whenever I start the sharing, it actually works very briefly, before stopping again (MAC addresses and stuff replaced with <snip>)

2014-05-05 11:47:37.974783 AM [wifid] <en1> Start BSS on <snip>
2014-05-05 11:47:37.974984 AM [wifid] <en1> Start Network
2014-05-05 11:47:38.058925 AM [wifid] <en1> Apple SWAP IE
Raw IE:
<snip>
Signature Length: 4
Use for Beacon
Use for Probe Response

Host model identifier: Macmini6,2
Internet Connection Sharing Enabled

2014-05-05 11:47:38.107761 AM [wifid] <en1> Stop BSS on <snip>
2014-05-05 11:47:38.117333 AM [wifid] Change Interface Role on en1 with MAC <snip> to sta
2014-05-05 11:47:38.117608 AM [wifid] <en1> Maximum PHY Rate <450>

Any idea what's wrong?

Had the same problem, reseting the NVRAM and PRAM worked for me.

http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1379


How could I replace Mathtype in a mathematic document with Catalina? I think I'm not the only one with this problem on Mac.

I have to buy a new MacBook with Catalina 10.15 (64 bits).

Being a math teacher, I need Mathtype to edit equations in my docs. I have a lot of old (and actual) docs made with Mathtype. The big advantage with Mathtype is that I can change my equation's font (arial, franklin, etc.). This is what I'm searching for.

But Mathtype (Wiris) doesn't plan a new version for Catalina (see https://lp.wiris.com/catalina/ or others forums). If I change my mac, I couldn't use Mathtype anymore.

I do not know what to do with this problem...

I can use Pages or Word for editing.

I could use Latex : not easy to use different font. Not easy to insert graph or other geogebra images, etc. I tried this solution last year, but I'm really too perfectionist to get what I need.

I could use Word 2016 equation editor : only 2 or 3 fonts availables on the web...

I could use Page 8.2.1 equation editor : the Blahtex fonts are limited. This is impossible to find a ttf who matches with possibles fonts.

I don't understand why I seem to be te only person with this problem on internet... It's impossible. Probably because others don't care about the font.

Could you help please? Some suggestions?

(Sorry for my bad english)

I had the same dilemma with Adobe CS5 and CS6. Ended up buying a refurbished 2018 Mac Mini directly from Apple. Came with Catalina preinstalled. Used the following steps to install Mojave.

Download Mojave from the link on the Apple website How to upgrade to macOS Mojave.
Use the Disk Utility application to create a new APFS volume in the existing APFS container.
Boot to macOS Recovery to allow booting from external media. You will only need to perform this step, if your Mac has the new T2 chip.
Used a flash drive to install Mojave to the new APFS volume. The instructions are given on the Apple website How to create a bootable installer for macOS.

You can now install your 32 bit applications. Basically, you will have a dual boot arrangement. When MathType 8 is released, you can install to the preinstalled Catalina. Mojave can be removed by using the Disk Utility to delete the APFS volume containing Mojave.

Before purchasing a refurbished Mac, you should confirm that the model was early enough to run Mojave. The website everyman.com is a good place to get this information. If for some reason the purchased model can not be downgraded to Mojave, Apple does have a 14 day return policy.

I should note that under Mojave I do get a error message when quitting an Adobe CS5 or CS6 application. Other than the message, the applications appear to function properly.

According to https://store.wiris.com/en/products/mathtype/download/mac MathType still isn't compatible with the latest versions of macOS, Catalina (10.15) and Big Sur (11.00).
The best solution for me has been using Mathematica from Wólfram.  They have accessible academic licenses, and it is an excellent software for numerous mathematical applications.
In Mathematica, we can write our equations nicely and professionally and, in principle, display them in their environment.
But that is not all; one can select a nicely formatted equation in Mathematica, and under the "Copy As" option of the Edit bar, one can copy it as "LaTex" or "MathML" inputs. Then, one can paste this input directly as an equation in Word and forget about "MathType" for once and forever.
Unfortunately, the LaTeX option for Word only works for Windows, so if LaTeX quality is desired, this should be done through a virtual machine.  But the  MathML option works fine for the Mac, not as nice as LaTeX, but quite acceptable.


Sync Safari tabs but not history between devices How can I sync my Safari tabs between my iPhone 7 and my MacBook Pro without syncing the two browsers' history?

Please check out this article. It explains how to set up iCloud Tabs (So a way to access open tabs across all your Apple devices that have Handoff enabled. It's basically a way to open a tab on one Apple device that is currently open on an different Apple device)


Can I install Yosemite on a different Mac with another Apple ID Can I use a copy of OS X Yosemite installer to install Yosemite on a Mac owned by someone else who obviously has a different Apple ID?

Yosemite should be a free upgrade.

You can also download it for free here.

https://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/48498/os-x-yosemite


iPhone 6 - Phone call keypad not recognized Recently, when I am on a call that requires pressing a number on the keypad (for instance: to select an option or join a WebEx), I can press the appropriate button and I see the press respond and hear the tone, but the other end of the line does not recognize that the number was pressed.

I thought it was only WebEx, but two other calls did the same thing today (one of them being an Apple support call).

How can I fix/debug this?

I tried searching Google for "iPhone 6 numeric keypad not working" but came up empty. Is there another term I should use in my search?

As an update, I have not had this happen since upgrading my phone to iOS 10, so I can only assume that it was a bug with previous versions of the operating system.

Aside from that, I have not found a "solution".


How do I automatically kill processes that leak memory? I have problems with processes that leak memory. They cause my hard drive to be filled with swap files in /private/var/vm.

I would like leaking processes to be killed at sight by the OS. I’m not interested in a dialog that appears after 20 minutes, suggests applications to kill, and doesn’t even show the one that is leaking.

I have tried setting the rss and data limits in /etc/launchd.conf but it didn’t seem to have an effect.

This is my /etc/launchd.conf:

limit data 8589934592 8589934592
limit rss 8589934592 8589934592

Here is the launchctl limit output:

% launchctl limit
    cpu         unlimited      unlimited
    filesize    unlimited      unlimited
    data        8589934592     8589934592
    stack       8388608        67104768
    core        0              unlimited
    rss         8589934592     8589934592
    memlock     unlimited      unlimited
    maxproc     709            1064
    maxfiles    256            unlimited

This is my .zshrc:

ulimit -t 600
ulimit -d 512000
ulimit -v 1024000

And the ulimit -a output (in ZSH):

% ulimit -a
    -t: cpu time (seconds)         600
    -f: file size (blocks)         unlimited
    -d: data seg size (kbytes)     512000
    -s: stack size (kbytes)        8192
    -c: core file size (blocks)    0
    -v: address space (kb)         1000
    -l: locked-in-memory size (kb) unlimited
    -u: processes                  709
    -n: file descriptors           256

Yet here is what top tells me about the process:

PID  COMMAND      %CPU  TIME     #TH  #WQ  #POR #MRE RPRVT  RSHRD  RSIZE  VPRVT  VSIZE  PGRP PPID
886  process      30.8  01:16.40 1/1  0    17   332  2259M+ 184K   2072M- 19G+   38G    882  885

It just seems that none of the documented memory limitation methods actually work. Is there an additional mechanism that I may have missed?

I would create a simple script which would filter process any process with a resident memory size (or perhaps total vm size, so including any paged out pages) bigger than a threshold that I define (depending on the amount of process, total memory available and perhaps also CPU availability). One can use a bit of bash script with either top or ps to dig out the list of process and memory size.

From this filtered list, I would use the leaks command (see man 1 leaks) per process PID. If the total amount of leaked memory reported by the command is higher than yet another threshold, I would then kill and respawn it.

NOTE: You should take care not to kill any OS/System processes without knowing what you do. To avoid this situation, you should perhaps filter out the list using a "white list" approach.

If you need this across reboots you should use only launchctl limit command.

If you need to limit application's memory you should also limit stack segment.


Sort Finder columns reversed I can't get this reversed thing to work:

Tell application "Finder" to set the sort direction of the modification date column to reversed

There is a bug in 10.7 and 10.8 where changing the sort direction doesn't always work unless you change the sort column first (see this question).

tell application "Finder" to tell list view options of window 1
    set sort column to name column
    set sort column to modification date column
    set sort direction of column modification date column to reversed
end tell

I think i found another bug. This code does not make kind column invisible.

tell application "Finder" to set visible of column id kind column of list view options of front window to false


screensaver that takes a screenshot I'd like to make my screensaver look just like an unlocked desktop.

The idea would be to take a screenshot just before activating the screensaver, and use that screenshot in the screensaver.

Has anyone done this before?

You can use ScriptSaver.

Set the AppleScript to a script containing the following:

do shell script "/usr/sbin/screencapture /path/to/folder/screensaver.png"

/path/to/folder must exist and be empty, or at least contain no other images
Set the screen saver to display after the AppleScript to Classic.
In System Preferences, set the folder for the Classic screensaver to the /path/to/folder.

This seems to do exactly what you want. I use it to secure a machine that shows a dashboard. It works great.

http://www.monkeybreadsoftware.de/Software/Transparent.shtml


AppleScript to turn on the Accessibility Keyboard in High Sierra How can I write a script to turn on the accessibility keyboard present in macOS High Sierra?

It's of course possible to do this by going to System Preferences > Accessibility > Keyboard > Accessibility Keyboard > "Enable Accessibility Keyboard," but this takes a number of clicks.  I would like a script that can be launched from the Dock, since I frequently use the Accessibility Keyboard.

One idea is to use AppleScript; another idea is to find the Accessibility Keyboard binary and use a shell script to open it.

Here is my attempt at an AppleScript:

tell application "System Preferences"
    activate
    reveal (pane id "com.apple.preference.universalaccess")
end tell

tell application "System Events" to tell application process "System Preferences"
    tell window "Accessibility"
        click UI element "Keyboard" of row 16 of table 1 of scroll area 2
        click button "Accessibility Keyboard"
        click checkbox "Enable Accessibility Keyboard"
    end tell
end tell

This script fails with the error: "System Events got an error: Can’t get button 'Accessibility Keyboard' of window 'Accessibility' of application process 'System Preferences'."

If I remove the last two click commands, the script does not produce an error, but also does not appear to click the "Keyboard" UI element.

What am I doing wrong?  Apologies if this is a stupid question; this is my first AppleScript.

Or if someone knows the location of the Accessibility Keyboard binary, that would be helpful, too.

Update Note: This answer was originally written prior to the release of macOS Mojave and as such to use it in macOS Mojave you'll need to change three lines of code.
Change:

select table 1 of scroll area 2
select row 16 of table 1 of scroll area 2
tell tab group 1

To:

select table 1 of scroll area 1
select row 16 of table 1 of scroll area 1
tell tab group 1 of group 1

The following example AppleScript code works for me under macOS High Sierra:
if running of application "System Preferences" then
    quit application "System Preferences"
    delay 1
end if
tell application "System Preferences"
    reveal pane id "com.apple.preference.universalaccess"
    delay 1
    tell application "System Events"
        tell window 1 of application process "System Preferences"
            select table 1 of scroll area 2
            delay 0.1
            select row 16 of table 1 of scroll area 2
            delay 0.1
            tell tab group 1
                click radio button "Accessibility Keyboard"
                delay 0.1
                click checkbox "Enable Accessibility Keyboard"
            end tell
        end tell
    end tell
    quit
end tell

In Script Editor, I saved example AppleScript code as an application, named Accessibility Keyboard.app, in the Applications folder.
Next, I added the Accessibility Keyboard.app to: System Preferences > Security & Privacy > Privacy > Accessibility
Now I can bring up the Accessibility Keyboard easily via Spotlight, or the Accessibility Keyboard.app can be dragged and dropped on the Dock so as to be launched for there.

Update:
My original example AppleScript code was geared at opening the Accessibility Keyboard, not closing it. As such, if it's open and the original script is run again it errors out. The following version of the example AppleScript code accounts for whether or not the Accessibility Keyboard it already shown and if so, closes it.
Note thought that while this does close the Accessibility Keyboard if it's showing, there is an added bounce to Dock Tile of System Preferences and is not and issue other then a secondary visual distraction.
Example AppleScript code:
if running of application "System Preferences" then
    quit application "System Preferences"
    delay 1
end if
tell application "System Preferences"
    reveal pane id "com.apple.preference.universalaccess"
    delay 1
    tell application "System Events"
        tell window 1 of application process "System Preferences"
            select table 1 of scroll area 2
            delay 0.1
            select row 16 of table 1 of scroll area 2
            delay 0.1
            tell tab group 1
                click radio button "Accessibility Keyboard"
                delay 0.1
                if value of checkbox "Enable Accessibility Keyboard" is 0 then
                    click checkbox "Enable Accessibility Keyboard"
                else
                    click checkbox "Enable Accessibility Keyboard"
                    delay 1
                    my clickOK()
                end if
            end tell
        end tell
    end tell
    quit
end tell

on clickOK()
    tell application "System Events" to click button "OK" of window 1 of application process "System Preferences"
end clickOK

Note that System Preferences does not need to be visible for this to work and why there is no activate command in the example AppleScript code. Additionally if System Preferences is already open, it is first closed before the rest of the code is processed. This is done for a couple of reasons, the first of which was already stated and secondly seeing the UI Events processed is a visual distraction and can be annoying.
Also note that the value of the delay commands may need to be adjusted for your system, and or additional delay commands may or may not be needed. Adjust values of and or add/remove the delay commands as appropriate.
Keep in mind that once the app is added to System Preferences > Security & Privacy > Privacy > Accessibility and modified thereafter, you'll need to uncheck it and recheck it for the new changes to be allowed to be processed.

Note: The example AppleScript code is just that and does not employ any error handling and is meant only to show one of many ways accomplish a task. The onus is always upon the User to add/use appropriate error handling as needed/wanted.

Another simple solution:

tell application "System Events"
    key code 96 using {option down, command down} -- shift-command-F5
end tell


Can I make an iTunes playlist comprised solely of songs that lack iTunes genius information? I'm looking to make some lemonade with the "lemon songs" that iTunes genius doesn't know how to catalog. One such example currently is an obscure song called "Polythene Pam" by some beatles boy band with bad haircuts walking on abbey road.

I'm aware that for some people, this song has enough matches for genius to make a playlist - I want to exploit my specific library to make a list of all the songs that currently won't make a playlist. Basically is there a way to get at genius results and create a playlist based on that status in a systematic way.

I'd love to make a smart playlist to exploit this and collect tracks for listening based on the idea that "if genius can't match this song to others in my library, it's worth a listen". This song is either too new (or obscure) and genius won't match it on anyone's library no matter how complete, or that song is so different than the others in my library that it stands out as a singleton.

Basically I'm asking if the Smart Playlist criteria are extensible as I want a Has Genius flag similar to the Has Artwork flag to make a playlist where this is false.

I'd also consider a script or third party software that could periodically make a traditional playlist if I can't automate it with a smart playlist. I am not looking for alternatives to iTunes or genius. Thanks for any ideas you might have!

I'll answer that it's not currently possible in hopes that someone can answer this and prove I'm wrong on this.

I'm not sure this is possible because the genius information isn't stored in the iTunes tag system that you can see. Genius actually has its own library that lives right next to your iTunes library. I assume that when you click on the genius button, iTunes checks to see if there is any information in the separate Genius library file and then reports back to you. If you could write a script to read that file then you might be able to do it, but I'm not sure that you can add the flag. Your best bet might be to add a comment when you do see that dialog pop up. Not automatic like you want, but as good as it gets I suppose.


Did the Java 1.6.0_31 update fix the Flashback trojan problem? Is the recent Java update of OSX (Java for OS X Lion 2012-002) to 1.6.0_31 also a bug fix for the Flashback malware?

The update is described here as:

  Multiple vulnerabilities exist in Java 1.6.0_29, the most serious of
  which may allow an untrusted Java applet to execute arbitrary code
  outside the Java sandbox. Visiting a web page containing a maliciously
  crafted untrusted Java applet may lead to arbitrary code execution
  with the privileges of the current user. These issues are addressed by
  updating to Java version 1.6.0_31. Further information is available
  via the Java website at
  http://www.oracle.com/technetwork/java/javase/releasenotes-136954.html

It fixes the vulnerability that Flashback used to install itself; this Gizmodo article gives some more info to check:

1. Run the following command in Terminal:

defaults read /Applications/Safari.app/Contents/Info LSEnvironment

2. Take note of the value, DYLD_INSERT_LIBRARIES
3. Proceed to step 8 if you got the following error message:

"The domain/default pair of (/Applications/Safari.app/Contents/Info, LSEnvironment) does not exist"

If you don't get that error message, well, time to head to F-Secure for your fix. If you're clean so far, you can move on to step eight:

8. Run the following command in Terminal:

defaults read ~/.MacOSX/environment DYLD_INSERT_LIBRARIES

9. Take note of the result. Your system is already clean of this variant if you got an error message similar to the following:

"The domain/default pair of (/Users/joe/.MacOSX/environment, DYLD_INSERT_LIBRARIES) does not exist"

If you don't have any anti-virus protection enabled, you might want to check out the excellent (and free) Sophos Home Edition

Here is a detection and removal Method from Ars Technica that works well.


How can change hard disk name (not partition) The title is self-explained: I want to change the hard disk name (not the partition). I am not able to do it with Disk Utility. Any solutions?

I'm on Yosemite

The device name is probably hard coded into the PCB or soft coded into the Service Area of the platter (aka hard drive firmware) and might be changed by the manufacturer but not by the customer.

The partition name (green) might be changed easily, the device name (red) not.

want to know how?
Connect it to a windows computer.
Press rename.
Done


Three dots but no message in iMessages When I text another iPhone user I see the balloon with the three dots but sometimes no message appears after the three dots.

Is it possible they are typing a text to a different user?

The 3 dots indicator appears when a user is typing and they have enabled the "Show typing" setting. However, they may start typing and then decide not to send the message, or stop to do something else, and therefore the message is never sent. The 3 dots indicator is not an indication that a message is incoming, simply that the user is typing.

The indicator only appears when they are typing a message specifically to you. It does not trigger when they are typing messages to others.

However, the indicator can get stuck if there are network errors or slowness, if the server is overloaded or has stale data. In practice, it can remain stuck until you get another complete message from that sender or you decide to delete that conversation.

Flex works, download flex then install the patch "Remove your typing indicator on iMessenger"


What are "Active Calories"? The Apple Watch Activity app purports to measure what it calls "Active Calories" which it counts towards its "Move" goal. But Apple's definition of such calories is clearly its own, not counting (at least apparently), for example, calories from weight workouts, Pilates, or yoga or 7-minute workouts?

What is the (Apple) definition of "Active Calories"? What does one have to do to generate them?

Apple doesn't define active calories in the manual for Apple Watch, but they are a common measurement in sports physiology.

If you are in a coma, your body uses up calories from two of the three muscle types: smooth and cardiac muscle. The third type is skeletal muscle and that's what Active Calories tries to estimate using a physiological model that clearly considers average human statistics and then incorporates input data you feed Apple's Health App (height, weight, sex, heart rate) and then uses the accelerometer to pick apart your specific activity level for input to the model.

Presumably a large amount of PHD level research went into Apple's internal algorithms and models based on who they hired to work on the fitness teams in several internal laboratories.

Since you mentioned some sports, here are my thoughts:

The watch can't know about what weights you are lifting since it doesn't have sensors for that (yet). In fact, the algorithms may mess up since it's seeing your wrist move slowly yet your heart rate goes up much more than it might expect/anticipate. Active calories will be far more accurate for people that run, walk and move without machines or weights attached to their bodies. So pilates (non-reformer), yoga, and 7 minute workouts without weights will be more accurately reflected in Active Calories than will reformer pilates and weight lifting.

Hopefully, weight machines or extra data input can arrive some time later for people to get excellent results with weights. I could see non-free weight machines interface with an app or health kit directly to enhance the recording of your workout profile and progress. Also, indirectly your heart rate will reflect your weight lifting, so without needing specific input, the active calorie measure should still be useful in an absolute measure and highly useful for comparing one workout to another as you add weights and change your metabolic response to physical stress.

Using a heart rate monitor like the polar Bluetooth model makes the difference. The heart rate monitor on the watch by itself is let accurate enough, but with the strap it's pretty spot on.


Best way to copy all files, ignoring errors? I have a partially corrupted HD that can not be repaired by Disk Utility, but which can be mounted read-only making the data on it accessible.

I am trying to copy all the recoverable contents onto a spare HD, but every method I try fails when an error is encountered - leaving the remaining files uncopied.

Finder - Fails.
SuperDuper - Fails.
Ditto (terminal command) - Fails.

I was hoping that Ditto would do the trick, the Ditto man page says:

  ditto returns 0 if everything is copied, otherwise non-zero.  ditto
  almost never gives up, preferring to report errors along the way.
  Diagnostic messages will be printed to standard error.

I have submitted a bug to Apple re ditto failing to perform as advertised.

Any other ideas?

I use cp -Rfv sourcefile destinationfile with success on a pretty regular basis.

cp = copy

R = maintains file hierarchies

f = if  an  existing destination file cannot be opened, remove it and try again

v = verbose mode, displays files transferred as it progresses

sourcefile = data you want to copy

destinationfile = directory/drive you want to copy to

If your drive is still accessible, and you can see the files hirrarchy, but just the copy process stop because of errors, you can use the Unstoppable Copier (windows only) program.
http://www.roadkil.net/program.php?ProgramID=29


Time Capsule multiple IP addresses I have two 2TB Time Capsules attached to a network through a Netgear router. Each Time Capsule is connected via Ethernet with the WiFi set to "off".

Each Time Capsule is assigned a unique static IP address; all devices connected to the network are assigned unique static IP addresses.

The Time Capsules randomly add IP addresses. Often the Time Capsule will have the assigned static IP address and two other unique IP addresses. It is truly a random occurrence. Sometimes there is only the assigned static IP address and then one or two additional IP addresses will be discovered to have been taken by the Time Capsule. Sometimes this occurs on only one unit and then it will occur on both. When the random IP address duplicates an assigned IP address for another device on the network, then the inevitable network address conflict error causes problems for the device operation.

I have reset each unit in an attempt to solve the problem, but the random attaching of IP addresses continues.

Here you can find the solution:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4890670?tstart=0


How can I convert JPG into PDF easily? Is there any way to batch convert .jpg files into single .pdf files?

Never forget your little fellow Automator, sitting in a hard drive near you :)

Launch Automator, create a new workflow. Now you need to add two actions:

In the "Files & Folders" select Ask for Finder Items and drag it.
In the PDFs Category, find "New PDF from Images" and also drag it.

Your workflow should look like this:

Now read the options for each Action and customize accordingly. Investigate similar actions (especially in the Files & Folders category) and perhaps the Photos if you want to transform your images from JPG to something else. In fact, go ahead and look all over automator, there are a lot of interesting things there. :)

When you're satisfied with your Workflow, click "Run" on the top right corner. Watch the magic happens and depending upon the number of items and your CPU power, you might go grab a coffee/tea.

Preview has "Export as PDF" It's simple to use, and has always worked for me:


finder is slow, disk access is slow, 1.5 million files on disk Folders take seconds to respond; Activity monitor shows nothing; there are 1.5 million files on the computer. Is the Finder overloaded?

How much space is left on your harddrive?
Alway try te keep 15% free space. If for example you have 500GB, and you already use 470GB, this will usually seriously slow down your mac, there should at least be 75GB of free space.

More info: http://macs.about.com/od/faq1/f/How-Much-Free-Drive-Space-Do-I-Need.htm

Get a external drive, and clean your mac.
Also i heard mac keeper is similiar to ccleaner in that it cleans your mac and keeps it running smooth

Clean and Optimize!


Does moving my home folder to an non-boot drive decrease performance? I'm going to get an SSD, making that my boot drive and moving the existing hard drive to the optical drive bay. I will keep my data on the original hard drive.

MacPerformanceGuide.com says "If the Boot drive is a fast SSD, moving the home directory can be self-defeating for performance."

Let me be clear. I'm talking about the home directory specifically. MacPerformanceGuide talks about the goodness of moving the Documents, iTunes library, etc. folders, but not so the home folder.

Why is that?

We are not talking about wearing out the SSD with excessive write cycles; we're talking performance.

OS X stores a considerable amount of data, from program caches to a multitude of preferences and other vital tmp files, in your home folder (Library to be precise). Shifting these off the SSD is detrimental. The system would still pull files from your speedy SSD but any cache files from your apps (both third party and default) would be pulled from traditional and cumbersome HDD.

Offloading large, static files, like music, movies, books, and other documents that benefit little from the speed of an SSD are recommended. But moving small core files that benefit greatly from solid state disks isn't. It's crucial to keep as many integral system components on your SSD as possible. A 2 GB movie or 1,000 songs won't benefit because movies don't need to be played faster and neither do songs. They may load a little quicker, and in the future, when SSDs will have TB of space, this won't be a problem anymore, but for now, it's all about triage.

I suppose you could try to micromanage this aspect but to be 100% safe, I would just move the big ticket items. An 120 GB SSD with 5 GB on it won't be faster than one with 20 GB on it.

In general, having your data split among multiple drives will always improve performance. In an ideal world, every single file on your system would be on it's own hard drive with it's own drive cache/etc.

But only if the other drive is at least as fast as the one you remove it from. If you replace an internal drive with a USB or even thunderbolt drive, then performance will probably be reduced.

If your internal boot drive is a high end SSD and you move your home directory to a $3 USB memory stick, then performance is going to be crap. On the other hand, if you move your home directory to a second internal SSD, then you will improve performance in many situations.

For something in between those two, you'll have to use your own judgement and/or test it out. The answer is going to depend on exactly what you use your hard drive for. Without knowing exactly how fast your SSD and existing hard drives are, or how you use your system, it's hard to predict what will be the best solution.


Transfer iPhone contacts to iCloud or Mac I just got involved into a new project at work, and I added all my colleagues to my iPhone contacts. In the middle of the process I got the idea it would be better to add the contacts to my iCloud.

So I got half of my colleagues in my iCloud and half of them on my iPhone memory. For some reason, the contacts I added on my iPhone, don't appear in my Address book. The ones I added on my iCloud do appear on my Mac and iPad (just like I want it to happen).

I've tried with iTunes and some 3th party software, but none of them worked (unless I paid for it... but I don't want to since I'm convinced this most basis function should work out of the box...)

So any advice how to transfer my iPhone contacts in vcf's to my Mac so I can import them into my Address book? Or how to transfer my iPhone contacts to my iCloud?

Try My Contacts Pro (Free). You could export all contacts on your iPhone and send them via e-mail, also could import them to your Address Book on your Mac.

Simply use Command ⌘ + A to select all your "On my Mac" contacts, then drag and drop them onto your iCloud Contacts.


Can't access About.com from my Macbook pro 2011 (lion then mtn lion), no matter what I try Using chrome, firefox, and safari gives me this type of warning: "Firefox can't establish a connection to the server at www.about.com". I tried checking the host through terminal and I get a response from about.com tells me ip etc. Also about.com works fine with iphone and pc at home on the same network. Firewall is off, and not having any issues with any other sites. I had little snitch at one point and uninstalled it.
I tried connecting to my Verizon Mifi and am Getting the same error. Checked /etc/hosts and I get this which is normal from what I understand:

  Host Database

  localhost is used to configure the loopback interface
  when the system is booting. Do not change this entry.

  127.0.0.1 localhost

  255.255.255.255 broadcasthost

  ::1 localhost

  fe80::1%lo0 localhost

I even tried upgrading to Mountain lion and it didn't fix the issue. I'm not doing any sort of development on the machine so I have no idea what could be causing it. Any ideas?

Edit: Someone suggested it might be peer guardian blocking the site. I haven't turned it on in months, but I guess it might still be running something in the background. Will have to check later when I get home. Anyone have such an issue with peerguardian not being on and causing sites not to load?

The new version of Mac OS X (Mountain Lion) has disabled the ability to use localhost. I was looking for the same thing—my development page wasn't working and I started to worry. Turns out its Apple's way to get you to pay another 19.99 for OS X server. Do a quick Google search, there are a few sites out there that explain how to force it back on, since Apache is still built in.


iOS - Bluetooth not auto connecting to previously paired device My iOS devices do not auto-connect (auto-pair) to a Bluetooth audio receiver device. However this works as expected on Android and OS X Yosemite. Thus I do not think it is the Bluetooth receiver that needs to be reset. What am I doing wrong? How do I correct this?

I have a little-known bluetooth stereo system receiver: BeeWi bbr100.
http://www.bee-wi.com/bluetooth-stereo-music-receiver-bbr100-beewi,us,4,BBR100-A 1.cfm

Steps on all devices tested are:

Turn on Bluetooth
Select and pair beewi bbr100 device (never paired until now)
Works fine, plays music.
Turn off Bluetooth
Turn on Bluetooth
iOS Does not automatically pair it, says 'not connected'. On Android and MacBook Air, it connects automatically.

Summary of my testing:

iPad Mini iOS 8.1.2 - No
iPhone 4S iOS 7.0.5 - No
Nexus 5 Android Lollipop - Yes
MacBook Air OS X Yosemite - Yes

I have gone through the Apple troubleshooting guide and already performed the following steps:

Reset network settings.
Log out of iCloud.
Performed a hard reboot.
Reset the Bluetooth device.

Is there something I'm doing wrong, something I don't understand, or something broken?

Apparently a lot of headset devices can maintain a list of several devices. So did my Skull Candy Ink'd Wireless.

The trick to reset this list, was to power up the device and hold - and + for a few (5?) seconds till you hear a strange beep. Then I paired again and the auto-connect worked again.

My guess is that it didn't like to be connected to multiple iPhones and got confused somehow.

You could try -

Open the Settings app on your iOS device.
Scroll down and tap General.
Next tap Handoff & Suggested Apps.
Turn off Handoff.

This is normally used to allow you to carry on browsing on other Apple devices.


What RSS reader software runs on iOS, Andriod and OS X for someone used to Google reader? What software and service functions similarly to an RSS reader which will sync between my Macs, iOS devices, and Android devices?

I am looking for a web view similar to Google reader as well as native client for offline use on all three platforms. I understand there may be no perfect match, so please offer experience and downsides of your solution so others can pick the best solution for themselves.

I'm clearly motivated by Google reader's close date of summer 2013 to find a new RSS platform.

Just some options I've found a few people discussing. Hope it helps.

Feed Wrangler

  David Smith announced that he’s been working on an RSS aggregation service to replace Google Reader.

Feedly

  ... just announced that if you’re using their app, they plan to seamlessly integrate the syncing to their own sync server.

Fever

  ...a self-hosted feed catcher that already syncs with Reeder, as well as quite a few other iOS apps.

River2

  River2 is a River of News feed reader with lots of features.

NetVibes

  ...one of the most popular web reader, offering a Google Reader-like interface as well as a snazzy iGoogle-like homepage.

NewsBlur

  ... is also a great option, with an interface that's very similar to Google Reader (and arguably a little more polished). You create an account with them, subscribe to your favorite sites, and can read them on any computer. They even have Android and iOS apps that'll sync your feeds, too

Feedbin.me

  See all your feed, summaries and article content side-by-side.

  Source: 1, 2 & 3

Try using this one www.gripping.us fully online RSS reader for mac, os, android.


Mac Mini 2011 - monitor wakes up messed up I have an Mac Mini from 2011. Sometimes (I would say 80% of the time) when I wake up the monitors, after they've been sleeping, my main monitor (a Benq G2220HD 22″, connected via DVI → Mini Displayport) wakes up with just noise. Its like a grey background with black, white, red, green and blue dots all over. To solve this I have to power off the monitor, and power it on again.

I also have a second monitor plugged in, through the included DVI-HDMI adapter (doesnt make a difference if I hook up my Benq using this method.) The second monitor works fine (I can see/use it while my other one is messed up), but it will also get the same issue if it is the only monitor hooked up.

I'm running OS X 10.8.5 (this was also on Lion and all other versions I've tried), I've done a SMC reset, and I've updated the EFI to MM51.0077.B10, which is said to fix an HDCP authentication thing, but it doesnt fix my problem.

My current solution is to just never sleep the monitor, instead have a screensaver running, but I want it to sleep because it gets really hot otherwise.

This doesn't happen in Boot Camp (Windows 7). It works fine there, so it has to be something with OS X I'm thinking.

UPDATE 26-10-2013 : This still happens in 10.9 Mavericks.

I've experienced the same issue on a friends mac.
If he switches spaces (swipe with 2 fingers on magic mouse - but i suppose opening mission control via a shortcut does the same) it's back to normal (until the next sleep)

Make sure all the ports don't have any dust In them and that all the cords work


Magic Mouse can never reconnect on Yosemite Since upgrading to Yosemite (did a wipe of my HD before installing, so no settings was there from Mavericks) I can only connect my Magic Mouse normally once per boot.

Normally you would be able to connect the mouse, sleep the computer, connect the mouse again, however I have to reboot my MacBook Pro after the sleep, if I want the Magic Mouse to work again.

I can see the device in both the Bluetooth preference pane and the Bluetooth menubar icon dropdown, but clicking connect in either of them does nothing.

Sometimes deleting the pairing and re-pairing with the mouse works, however most of the time it doesn't.

I have tried to reset my nvram and deleting /Library/Preferences/com.apple.Bluetooth.plist, without any success.

When using Mavericks and below, I have never had any issue with my Magic Mouse and the problem still exist when using a different Magic Mouse on Yosemite.

Any suggestion on how to fix this, without downgrading to Mavericks?

I found a solution from this comment on reddit:

Turn off wifi
Reconnect Magic Mouse
Turn on wifi again

I just noticed that the above doesn't work sometimes and instead you have to reconnect the mouse after turning on wifi again:

Turn off wifi
Turn on wifi again
Reconnect Magic Mouse

Turning off wifi fixed the problem.

Turn off the wifi.
Mouse will be discovered automatically.


Hot Corners for Mission Control stop working I set the upper right corner of the screen as a Hot Corner to activate Mission Control. However, some time after setting it, the Hot Corner stops working. Keyboard shortcuts still work.

Going back into System Preferences, changing the Hot Corner to some other action and then back to Mission Control resolves the problem temporarily. But eventually it fails again.

This wasn't always a problem with Lion. Mission Control Hot Corners used to work fine. I'm not certain, but I think the problem started with the 10.7.2 update. Either that, or some other software recently installed on my Mac is causing a conflict.

Any idea on how to resolve the unreliable Hot Corners?

27" iMac Core i3, OS X 10.7.2

Had this issue November 2016 running OS 10.12.1 "Sierra" an additional symptom is that Mission Control was not launching. I fixed it by opening Activity Monitor, Quit the dock (force quit was not necessary). Went back to normal

I had the same problem, it was solved after I quit BetterTouchTool.


How to change mouse speed of the login window? I prefer a fast tracking speed for mouse on my MacBook.

However, this setting is only good for the logged in user. When I logged out, the mouse is slow again.

How can I change the mouse tracking speed in the login window (i.e. when all users are logged out)?

If you are saying that you would like to set the mouse tracking speed for all users of the system I do not believe there is a way to do that.  Each will have his/her own preference.

If you are saying that when you set your preference and then log out/log in under the same user and unexpectedly find that your preferences are not retained then there should be a fix.

Likely cause ,either:

The the permissions on the preference file are set incorrectly --  This might be fixed in disk utility -- repair permissions. Logout and then login.

or

The permission file is corrupt.  You should move it to the desktop, logout, login and set the permissions. Should stick now.  I believe the preference is stored here:
~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.driver.AppleHIDMouse.plist

I haven't tried it, but maybe setting the mouse tracking speed for the root user will do the trick. You need to enable the root account first: https://support.apple.com/hr-hr/HT204012

Then log in as root, open the system preferences and modify the tracking options.


18GB of Other storage I bought the game Wargame: European Escalation a while back off Steam and went to uninstall it today. I deleted it, but now my storage is filled with  18GB of "Other". I am on El Capitan version 10.11.1. How do I remove this? Thanks.

Perform a scan of your hard drive with the tool Grand Perspective. With that (a free tool), you can easily see what exact files and data are eating up space, as well as where they are in your file tree. Then, it'll be easy to root out and delete what you don't want.

“Other” storage simply includes everything that doesn’t fit into pre-existing categories. This includes browser cache, cached email messages & attachments, iTunes backups, notes, voice memos, call history, etc.

Here i found an article explained in detail what's is "Other" on iPhone, and how to clear up "Other", you should have a look: mysterious “Other” on iPhone.


MAC OS X refuses to mount the main volume Macintosh HD, saying that there's an “Invalid content in journal” I have a problem with my MAC. Yesterday it got stuck while it was trying to connect to a Wi-Fi network, then, since it didn't respond I decided to turn it off using the power on/off button ('). When I restart it, MAC didn't mount my disk0s2 where OS X is installed (Macintosh HD) and where all my files and programs are stored, instead the OS X Utility appeared.

I tried to verify the disk using Disk Utility and the Terminal by running:

fsck_hfs -fy /dev/disk0s2
//(disk0s2 it's the device file for my Macintosh HD Volume, I have checked this with diskutil list)

but I got this message:

Invalid content in journal
** Checking Journaled HFS Plus Volume
Invalid record count
** The volume cannot be verified completely.

I thought I need to disable the journal on the volume, but even after this command:

/System/Library/Filesystems/hfs.fs/hfs.util -N /dev/disk0s2
disable_journaling: /dev/disk0s2 is not journaled.

If I run again fsck_hfs I get the previous error "Invalid content in journal" again and again.

If, using Disk Utils, I click on the "Repair Disk" button, I get this:

The disk cannot be repaired. Backup how much as possible files, format the disk and restore your files.

But I do not have a backup disk (I know I know, I should or better I must had one), but I don't. How can I backup how much as possible files if I cannot mount the disk and navigate through the file system?

Why I keep obtaining the journal error even if I have disable it with hfs.util?

Is there a way to access my data again using embedded tools and not using commercial solutions like Tech Tools or Disk Warrior (I have read about these two around in forums)?

Another thing I have noticed is this:
If I start the MAC in single user mode (command line interface) and I type "exit", I get the following error while the MAC is trying to boot:

hfs_mount: hfs_mountfs returned error=5 for device /dev/disk0s2

How should I interpret this error?

Please, if you came across this or a similar problem, post what you did in order to resolve this annoying problem (I also used and still use Linux (Ubuntu) and I never had such a problem when the system got stuck and I pressed the power off button in order to turn-off the hanged system).

Thanks for the attention.

Open error 5: youre I/O is corrupt. Hardisk is probably failing.


How can I unpack .7z files via MacOS terminal? Looking to unpack a bunch of files.7z via terminal.

Is there a command-line tool built in, available or I shall install an application that comes with a graphical interface?

You can install p7zip with Homebrew. So

% brew install p7zip
% 7za x myfiles.7z

Installing Homebrew as @EraserPencil suggested makes sense as the OP might need more programs in the future, which would be at his fingertips then. You can install Homebrew with

/usr/bin/ruby -e "$(curl -fsSL https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Homebrew/install/master/install)"

It should be noted there is 7z e as well but as commented by @Qback, this does almost never do what you want if you have subdirectories in the archive.

Because you are familiar with CLI and coming from a Linux background, you could try Installing GNU-tar on Mac

You'd first need to install Homebrew,

/usr/bin/ruby -e "$(curl -fsSL https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Homebrew/install/master/install)"

then run brew install gnu-tar. Think of brew as the yum, or apt-get equivalent.

Then you can use gtar on your Mac.

# on Mac
$ gtar czvf example.tar.gz example
example/
example/bla.txt

# send it to CentOS
# login to CentOS

$ tar xzvf example.tar.gz
example/
example/bla.txt


Why can't I reply emails but send new one on my iPad 2? I cannot reply to emails on my iPad 2, but if I compose a new one it will send it fine. This is a new problem as it was working fine before and there have been no changes.

I use a Telstra Micro SIM and an optus email address.

I believe that what is happening is that you have multiple email accounts setup, and when you go to compose you are using the outgoing of account A, and when you reply/forward you are attempting to use the outgoing of account B.

So to fix, check your outgoing account settings for the account that you cannot reply emails for.

Thanks all. I have cured the problem by deleting a Yahoo account which shared the same e mail address as BT.


" Item can't be played " whenever I tap on a song I'm currently using iPhone 6 with iOS9.3.1. Whenever I try to play music I get an error. After I tap on a song I get the error item can't be played.  Also, I have tried restarting my iPhone multiple times but it doesn't seem to work.

This happened to me too (itunes 12.4.1.6-ipad 2). If you're trying to sync over wi-fi, try plugging in directly with the cable... worked for me.

Reset your Phone and will work fine, this is the official solutions if is happen to not work your phone. when will make factory reset your device work normally.


iOS Developer Account With VISA Debit Card Can anyone confirm whether Apple accepts VISA debit card to buy iOS Developer account that costs $99.

I can use the same card to purchase apps from the App Store but is this card can also be used to buy iOS developer account?

According to Apple iOS Developer website, only valid credit cards are accepted. Googling suggest attempted purchase using debit card didn't work, unfortunately.
It’s up to your bank to code whether the card is valid for Apple to charge in the region it decides to charge you for this product. Globally, many (if not most) debit cards will work for any Apple transaction, but some will not if your bank establishes a limit for transactions in the regional online store Apple uses for your transaction or otherwise restricts your card to local or country-specific ATM only. There are debit cards with very strict terms that will not work with Apple.

Debit cards with "Verified by Visa" or "3D SecureCode" will failed on international transactions.

Please use any debit cards without these verification steps in order to bypass the USSD command to send you the verification code to your phone.


iTunes 11.2.2 moves song to top after editing When I've finished editing a song attribute (like the title) and hit enter, iTunes moves this song to the top of the browser. It's very jarring and bad for editing a bunch of files in succession. It also occurs if you click outside of the edit box, so it's not specific to pressing enter.

I realize that I can avoid this by bringing up the Info pane for each song and then clicking "next"/"previous" instead, but this is a hassle and it would be great if iTunes did not move the library after editing.

Does anyone know of a fix/hack for this problem? I don't remember it happening in the past, though I don't edit lots of song titles all that often, so it's possible I just never noticed.

Right click on the iTunes Coulomb headers.

That brigs up the long list of choices.

Un-check the Date Modified and Added.

Click on Name coulomb and sort alphabetically.

Now after editing it should stay put.


How to change 24hr Time format Is it possible to make the clock to show 0900 instead of 9:00 for 9AM? I’ve already tried changing the format under System Preferences → Language & Region → Advanced… but the setting doesn’t save.

It cannot be done.

It looks like you can, but in fact it doesn't affect the menu bar clock.

System Prefs > Language & Region > Advanced... > Times

Changing the format in here, you'd expect it to affect the menu bar clock... but in fact it affects timestamps shown in Finder windows only.

There is no equivalent Advanced mode in Date & Time

Just in case you are using a Mac and you missed a step I made this picture on how to change the time format and well it did work for me

Click the time & date
Click the Preferences option
Click open language and region
Check or uncheck the time formate for 24 hours or not

Hope this helped


Macbook doesn't display on external screen until after I log in (Yosemite). How to fix? I have a macbook pro (mid-2011) and an HP Pavilion 22bw (prob inconsequential) connected via a Thunderbolt DVI Adapter.

Ever since installing Yosemite, I now need to open the macbook pro and log in via its own screen, rather than the external monitor.  It simply does not display / send any signal to the external screen until AFTER I'm logged in.

Does anyone else have this issue?  Is there any other option?  This is highly inconvenient with how my workspace is set up.

Thanks!

To Fix this issue do the following while your external monitor is plugged into the MacBook:

Open Displays in System Preferences
Click on Arrangement at the top of the window
If Mirror Displays is checked, uncheck it
The position of the two displays should now be shown in the Displays Window
One of them will have a white bar at the top.  This is probably your MacBook
Click on each display in the window and you will see the relevant display framed in red.
If the white bar is at the top of your MacBook display, move it to the top of the external monitor display.
Then click Mirror Displays again.
This should resolve the issue


Recording video on mac without mirror inversion What's the best way to record a video on Mac without the camera flipping right and left?

QuickTime doesn't seem to have this option. I tried QCamera as it was posted as the answer to a similar question How do I prevent the mirror-effect in video recordings in Photo Booth?
but it doesn't have an option for recording video, only displaying video.

The only way I have access to the camera where the video is not flipped is FaceTime, but I have no way to record it (unless I did a screen capture on top of FaceTime, which just seems unnecessary).

Shift+Command+H will flip a video horizontally in QuickTime after you stop recording.

In summary:

Record a video in QuickTime as usual (it will still show as inverted during this time)
Stop recording
Shift+Command+H to flip it horizontally
Quit the app - it will prompt you to save the file, which will save it in the desired inversion. Alternatively you can File > Export to a variety of formats.

I tested this on macOS Catalina using QuickTime 10.5.

Quicktime should do the trick, with Shift+Command+H to flip it horizontally.


How can I make an app think it's running on iOS 5? So I have a jailbroken iPad on 4.X. I would like to use the new Netflix interface but it's  only for ios 5. Is there any jailbroken app that will make it think its on ios 5 and not ios 4.X? Or is possible to edit the Netflix app files or something? Thanks for the help.

Even if you could fool the app, it would crash as soon as it called on a part of the system that exists in iOS 5 but not in iOS 4. Your editing of the file would both have to be the main version requirements check as well as any internal checks that the app makes to determine the capabilities and API present on that device as the program runs. I don't know any developer that just said they need iOS 5 out of spite against people running 4, 3, 2 versions of iOS. It's always been because they need features and code frameworks added in iOS 5 and couldn't code around it in the program. When a developer can do that, they change their app to work on multiple os versions and let you know feature X is disabled or works differently when running on iOS 4. For developers that want to use the latest tools in iOS, it is actually more work for them to keep the older OS support in each build so there needs to be a good financial reason to keep doing that work in many cases.

Think of the iOS version test as sealing a door to nowhere opening up on the third floor of a building when the fire escape stairs (or balcony or whatever) is not yet built. When the program you deceive into thinking it's running on iOS 5.x calls on code that doesn't exist, the app will crash.

Apple designed the version check to "lock the door or perhaps the entire wing of that building" in a very visible way. By bypassing this check, it's like removing the "danger / hazard" signs and nailed wood braces covering the opening and letting someone walk out into thin air from that third-floor door to nowhere.

Deleting /System/Library/CoreServices/SystemVersion.plist solved the problem for me.  There's no guarantee what will happen if you delete your /System/Library/CoreServices/SystemVersion.plist but it seemed to work for me on iOS4.3.3(8J2) to fix the issues I was having as mentioned in the previous post.

I don't recommend spoofing the iOS version in SystemVersion.plist as it would appear that the new App Store is not compatible with iOS 4.3.3.


Copying ISO file to USB drive in OS X? I have tried to copy an ISO file to a USB drive. I am unable to do it with Disk Utility. How can I copy the ISO file to a USB drive?

But I get the below. I have enough space in the 16GB USB drive for the 2GB ISO file. What am I doing wrong?

Debugging

Bmike commented "You can isolate the scanning of the image from the restoring to see if the problem lies with the image or the copy. Images -> Scan Image for Restore... from the menu of Disk Utility." but the procedure fires the error below. What does it mean?

IMHO the easiest way is in terminal:

First run diskutil list
then insert your usb stick
and run diskutil list again to see the disk node (e.g. /dev/disk2).
Now run diskutil unmountDisk /dev/diskN
and do sudo dd if=/path-to.iso of=/dev/rdiskN bs=1m (or bs=1M with homebrew)
When finished diskutil eject /dev/diskN

Quoting from the ubuntu article linked earlier:

I think the key is to use the drive (/dev/sdb), not the partition (/dev/sdb1), in the of= option:
sudo dd if=dban.iso of=/dev/sdb bs=1m


Permanently Stop iTunes Auto-Loading I have an early 2013 Retina MacBook Pro and I'm absolutely fed up with iTunes loading.  I never use it and I never will.

As far as I can tell I've tried every suggestion to stop it from loading of it's own accord.  The most common suggestion is to remove the iTunes Helper from my accounts Login Items which I have done ... repeatedly.  It always worms it's way back in somehow.

How can I disable this app permanently?  I simply don't want it to ever run ... ever.  Only if I launch it manually.

Short question, many solutions

The easy way

Using the Terminal, unregister all the links from you file types to iTunes    /System/Library/Frameworks/CoreServices.framework/Frameworks/LaunchServices.framework/Support/lsregister -u /Applications/iTunes.app

If you still have trouble and iTunes opens automatically, check out RCDefaultApp. Old, but still working (right click->open...)
http://www.rubicode.com/Software/Bundles.html#RCDefaultApp

Install, go to system preferences, disable all the "media" links to iTunes

"Quick and dirty" (Teminal)

First, do

sudo chown -R $USER /Applications/iTunes.app
chmod ugo-x /Applications/iTunes.app/Contents/MacOS

This will prevent iTunes from starting EVER.
To start iTunes manually, do

chmod ugo+x /Applications/iTunes.app/Contents/MacOS/iTunes; open /Applications/iTunes.app; chmod ugo-x /Applications/iTunes.app/Contents/MacOS/iTunes

The way for the brave

Use duti, http://duti.org/documentation.html. Install using "brew install duti", make sure to have homebrew installed first (http://brew.sh).
Remove all links to iTunes.
Make sure to read Change file association in terminal? to get all current file types.

I've fixed it.  I had implemented all the fixes for this issue that I had found on so many web sites that I was feeling like I'd lucked out.

Turns out that I had a screen saver installed called SoundStream.  An audio sensitive screen saver.  When this launches after the preset amount of time if iTunes isn't running, it starts it up!

So, if you're having this issue of iTunes starting randomly it may well be your screen saver doing this silently in the background!


Using MacBook Pro's monitor for Windows PC I want to use my 2014 macbook pro 13's monitor for my windows 7 pc .
How can I do this ?

my MacBook is running yosemite.

You can't physically connect your Windows PC to your MBP so just using the monitor is not possible. You can use any of the various screen sharing solutions out there to access your PC from your Mac:

TeamViewer is kind of straightforward to setup on both machines
TighVNC Server can be installed on the Windows side and connected to from your Mac by typing Cmd-K in Finder and entering vnc://name-of-windows-pc as an address

its 5 years later and there is an answer https://spacedesk.net/


I took my iPhone 4 apart and now the display isn't working so I was trying to replace the front of my phone. I didn't need a new LED display because just the top corner of the glass was chipped.

Well, I took the phone apart shortly to find out that it's impossible to remove the LED from the front glass so I just put the phone back together the way it was.

Now when I turn the phone on, it just sits with a black glow. However, it does respond to the power button, but it displays no color other than black. So you either get a matted black (off) or a glowing black (on).

Has anyone ever run into this before? Thanks.

I concur with Jan's suggestion, and direct you to iFixit's Installing iPhone 4 Display Assembly. Perhaps if you repeat the procedure, carefully following the instructions in the guide, you can restore the display functionality.

I would also add, at the risk of sounding condescending, that had you done a little research prior to tearing open the device, you would have discovered that the iPhone 4 digitizer is bonded to the outer glass. This was much discussed, and often criticized both because of screen discoloration on new devices (until the "glue" set) and as being anti-DIY repair when the device was first released. Live and learn, I applaud your initiative in opening your device.

You could try putting it into DFU mode (you have to google for it, I don't know the exact procedure) and connect it to iTunes to restore the firmware.

(And the next time you take apart an iDevice on your own, check out ifixit.com. There you can read how to repair the device without killing it.)