How to connect 2 external non Apple monitors with 13" MacBook Pro 2017 This MacBook Pro has only two USB-C ports. Since one is used to charge the laptop (the monitor can't charge the laptop), there is only one available port to plug a monitor.

Is it possible to connect two external monitors, for example with a hub? If so, can we have 4K resolution for at least one monitor?

To get two external monitors on your 13" MacBook Pro, you need

a video adapter that supports pass-through charging
a Type C DisplayPort cable

Both displays can support 4K at 60Hz.  From Apple's technical specifications page:

Video Support
Simultaneously supports full native resolution on the built-in display at millions of colors and:

One display with 5120-by-2880 resolution at 60Hz at over a billion colors

Up to two displays with 4096-by-2304 resolution at 60Hz at millions of colors

Up to two displays with 3840-by-2160 resolution at 60Hz at over a billion colors

Given that a pair of monitors are not engineered to 'daisy chain' (see below), you must use an adapter. There are many options for purchase, some can provide a wide array of I/O options for different cable types, and some that simply output to 2 HDMI connections (and allow for 4k signal). Assuming your monitors have HDMI inputs, that would be your more basic solution. You would want to do a product search for "thunderbolt 3 to dual HDMI adapter".
If in the future you get monitors with thunderbolt ports, you would be able to use them for daisy chaining a spectrum of configurations, as shown in this infographic.


How to escape modal dialog in Safari? A certain Safari tab is asking for a username/password that I do not have.  I can click "Cancel" on the authentication dialog but it immediately pops up again.  The dialog is modal, meaning that it disables all other UI elements of the window except the minimize/resize buttons.

How can I close the problematic tab without quitting the application?

Open Activity Monitor, look for the process corresponding to the tab and quit it.

click with the right mouse button on the page and select "back", in this way the page go back (but the modal is still there)
open new safari window install SafariRestore plugin
click on the plugin icon
save a new session
quit safari
open safari
restore the session


Magic mouse 2 scrolling not working after installing windows 10 I have installed windows 10 via boot camp. Now when i start up with windows , i can move magic mouse 2 on the screen but scrolling with mouse not working.
 When i start up with Osx 10.11.4 magic mouse 2 does not have problem.

I would recommend updating the Bootcamp application and drivers through Windows by using Apple Software Update. It is likely an outdated driver being on your system which does not have the proper information to handle the newer Magic Mouse 2.

navigate to "C:\Program Files (x86)\Apple Software Update" and run the updates. You will be able to se the scroll feature.


bash: brew: command not found I am new to mac and was following a video and typed export PATH="$HOME/opt/git/bin:$PATH" I believe this messed up my path and I am not able to install MySQL now. When I tried to install homebrew I get -bash: brew: command not found.  I tried restarting the terminal and I am still getting this error.

Restarting the terminal should have solved the problem since you didn't append what you have typed to a bash start-up file.

Also, even if what you have typed was directed to a bash start-up file it wouldn't affect where bash would find brew since you're prepending to the original path and not overwriting it.

Your problem lays in something else you've done that has changed the settings for your path in a bash start-up file or have deleted/altered the location of the executable.

Why aren't you able to install MySQL? What errors do you get? What form of package are you installing? Is it from the MySQL official site?

Recommended installation of brew makes it reside in /usr/local/bin/. Do you have that in your echo $PATH output? Also, normal brew installation is a simple command that doesn't need brew to start with. So do you mean you get -bash: brew: command not found after attempting the installation of brew?

brew is only for macs. oh!. i see you are using a mac. ok thn, open your terminal window. oh, its open. ok, then. i can help you no more. keep up the good work.


Is there a software that can visually highlight focused windows more? I do web development on my Mac and I tend to have lots of windows open. Even per application, I tend to have multiple windows opened (ie a Terminal window for tail -f error logs, one for ssh, and one for local commands).

When I switch applications with ⌘tab, the visual effect on focused window is subtle and I often get confused and perform commands on the wrong window. For example, I switch to Terminal and do ⌘w to close a tab on the tail -f command, but I accidentally closed the ssh tab!

Is there a Mac program that will highlight or do some more effects on a focused window when I switch applications?

This is Mavericks specific, but Honer will draw a border around the active window. You might also want to combine it with this app that removes window shadows.


Only root login remains (all other users gone) and even root hangs, so can't access! We have been locked out of our iMac running on El Capitan. Basically all known user accounts have disappeared. Only "other" remains which seems to the "system administrator" or "root" and when trying to login with this one, it hangs (endless turning white circle). Have been on forums and tried many of the First Aid (and second aid) tips and tricks, including fsck (where I found out initially "MacHD had been modified", and eventually got to "MacHD seems to be working fine").

Someone suggested the problem may be in Launch Services area and to access the Mac through FireWire and Target Disk Mode, but I don't have the possibility for such connection, plus without step-by-step I am not tech savvy enough to dare the programming challenge it seemed to require.

Any help would be wonderful. I would bring it in, but as always when things fail, several important docs on the hard drive hadn't been backed up yet, so there we are.

According to several sources: Apple discussions or Mac notebooks: Apple Hardware Test may report "HDD" alert the error: error 4HDD/11/40000000:SATA(0,0) may be erroneous or at least unclear/dubious.

It may be related to the vanishing of your users in the Login Screen or not.

Depending on your findings in Single User Mode you have several options:

Removing .AppleSetupDone to re-run Setup Assistant

To remove this file, you have to boot to single user mode by pressing ⌘S while booting. After a few moments, you'll see the Mac boot to the command line.

Check the file system and mount your main volume in read/write mode

/sbin/fsck -fy
/sbin/mount -uw /

With the filesystem mounted and accessible, it's time to remove the file so OS X will re-run Setup Assistant:

rm /var/db/.AppleSetupDone

Reboot your Mac with

reboot

After rebooting the Setup Assistant will create a new user and setup your system. Choose a user name not used previously. Search for any "old" (in /Users) or moved (elsewhere) previous user folders. In a second step you can change the permissions of the individual user folders and recover all data.

This might fail if your system is corrupted (bogus LaunchServices etc.)
If your system seems to be corrupted, reinstall it:

Reboot to Recovery Mode by pressing ⌘R while booting.

Open Disk Utility in the main panel and verify/repair your main volume and permissions. Quit Disk Utility.

Reinstall the system with Reinstall OS X. This shouldn't affect any user data or already installed apps.
If the previous step also fails I recommend to slightly resize the main volume, create a new 50 GB volume and install a fresh version of OS X to it. Since you have a Fusion Drive (CoreStorage LVG) you may either use the command line or Disk Utility to resize the main volume. Using Disk Utility choose the Fusion Drive and "Partition" and use the handler to slightly resize the main drive. Then choose the new item "Untitled" and the erase button and rename it to something else but stay with the default format (OS X Extended (Journaled)).

After successfully installing OS X to the new small volume attach an external drive and save all precious data to it. You may have to adjust the permissions of some of the user folders to accomplish this.

Finally erase the drive and install a new system. Now either let it check by an Apple authorized technician or at the Apple Genius bar for the errors mentioned at the beginning or continue setting up your system.

To make all the complicated lives of IT gurus easier, *

they are all in the Finder/Preference

*, just pick and click. Not Apple/Preference.


There are a couple unused megabytes after partition has been wiped I was trying to erase my partition and reinstall OS X but it says that 108.35 out of 108.50 gigabytes are being used, I'm just curious on what they are used for and why is there space still being used even if the disk has been wiped.

Every drive is different when it comes to the amount of space that it takes for it's own use.

For me, I have a 128GB SSD in my MacBook Air, but if I look up the amount of space available to me it usually shows that I have 120-121GB of actual usable space.


Why can't I connect to the internet on my iPhone 4? I've just bought an iPhone 4 and I want to connect to the internet but I can't do so.

Do I need an apple id to use an iPhone?

Definitely I've contacted my dataplan service and they are saying I should be able to connect to the internet now. But i can't!

I've waited over 3 weeks but still no internet. These are the messages i get from 1627:

  May 8, 2011 5:33 PM

  Dear Valued Customer, your GSM Mi
  World Mobile service has been
  activated as requested.

  Dear Valued Customer, your GSM Mi
  World Mobile service has been
  activated as requested.

  May 16, 2011 1:08 PM

  Thank you for re-contracting your M1
  line with IPHONE 4, 16GB, WHITE.
  Please call us at 1627 immediately if
  you did not subscribe to M1
  service(s).

I'm thinking there's something I need to do in settings but I don't know what.. Right now if i open safari it just won't connect.

No - you only need a correctly provisioned data plan and working iPhone software. There isn't much that you can mis-configure unless you jailbreak or start mucking with custom iPhone carrier settings profiles.

iPhone data can break or be misconfigured on the carrier end - even if SMS and voice calls work, there can still be a problem with the data service so you may need to get help from your carrier that is providing your data access. It could also be a software issue and Apple is the best place to get that sorted.

Your question is basically how do I systematically troubleshoot iPhone data and/or teach myself how to operate my new phone. (no offense, but it's hard to determine from a one sentence question what your level of comfort is with iPhone data terms and how it may break.)

You might want to get some help from Apple or the carrier since the internet works as long as you are in working Wifi or your data plan is active on the iPhone. Troubleshooting an issue by back and forth on a discussion board is very hard so it's best to get real-time assistance when you are sitting in front of your computer to update the software if needed.

http://www.apple.com/support/iphone/ has some great getting started tips if you want to work through it yourself.

Specifically http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1976 documents the concepts and has an express lane link to get support directly from Apple to narrow down the cause - if 3G is showing in the menu bar it's not some obvious error or switch but something obscure or a carrier issue.

I highly suggest you start with the iPhone User Guide and go through activation and configuration. To connect to the internet you need either a WiFi or 3G connection.


Disable OS X Server's shutdown prompt? I've just installed OS X Server. Whenever I try to shut it down (as a local interactive user), I keep seeing a prompt that requires me to enter an admin's name and password before proceeding with the shutdown:

Shutting down may cause other users logged into this computer to lose unsaved changes.

I keep seeing this dialog even though there is nobody else connected to the machine.

Question is, how can I disable this dialog? I mean, let anybody who is logged in locally to shutdown the machine without entering an administrator password (or even without entering their own password?) I see this is not a security issue since with physical access, they can just press the power button.

My original intention is to use the living room's iMac as an Xcode build server, primarily to run unit tests. The machine starts and automatically logs in to a non-privileged account to make it convenient for people to use it to play videos and such. It would be nice to have this machine run unit tests as well, and it's really not critical if a build/run gets canceled mid-way because the machine is shutting down.

Server version: 4.1 (14S1092)
OS X: 10.10.3 (14D136)

One possible way could be by using a terminal command:

shutdown -h now

This immediately kills all processes and shuts your system down in a fairly nice manner.

As a normal user you could initiate this by

sudo shutdown -h now

But the problem with password prompt remains, this time in the terminal.

Having a closer look to the sudo configuration file /etc/sudoers I found:

...
# User privilege specification
root    ALL=(ALL) ALL
%admin  ALL=(ALL) ALL

# Uncomment to allow people in group wheel to run all commands
# %wheel        ALL=(ALL) ALL

# Same thing without a password
# %wheel        ALL=(ALL) NOPASSWD: ALL
...

Check whether your account is already in the wheel or admin group by issueing groups in the terminal. If that is the case, just uncomment the line with %wheel NOPASSWD or by adding NOPASSWD at the proper position of the admin line above (the wheel line shows you how to do this). For instance:

tatooine-3:~ mallert$ groups
staff com.apple.sharepoint.group.2 everyone localaccounts _appserverusr
admin _appserveradm _lpadmin _appstore _lpoperator _developer
com.apple.access_screensharing com.apple.access_ssh com.apple.sharepoint.group.1

Here my user is already in the admin group, therefore I would just add NOPASSWD in the sudoers line like this:

%admin  ALL=(ALL) NOPASSWD ALL

Now you should be able to fire up a

sudo shutdown -h now

without being asked for a password. To finalize my solution you could create an app with automator which executes this sudo shutdown -k now command as a bash script.

If you want to reboot the server instead, use

sudo shutdown -r now

There must be more than one users logged on your computer, you'd better log out users after a certain time limit.


Bose QuietComfort 15 inline Microphone and mid-2011 Macbook Air The BOSE headphones come with a cable that has a remote/microphone. The BOSE website and even the box says:

  The QuietComfort 15 inline remote and microphone cable is compatible
  with iPod nano (4th, 5th and 6th generation), iPod classic (120GB,
  160GB only), iPod touch (2nd, 3rd and 4th generation), iPhone 3GS,
  iPhone 4, iPad and iPad 2, and Macbook (unibody) and Macbook Pro. The
  remote is supported by iPod shuffle (3rd generation). Audio is
  supported by all iPod models. Requires latest iPod software.

Although it doesn't specifically mention a Macbook Air, one would believe that the machines are using similar technology, but since it's not mentioned, I cannot be sure. I'm ready to go to an Apple store, buy it, test it and if it doesn't work, then return it right there, but perhaps someone can save me the trouble. I'm looking to use Skype (and similar) apps.

Does anyone has first hand experience with this combination and can confirm if the BOSE's inline-microphone will work when plugged into a Mid-2011 Macbook Air audio plug?

UPDATE: I tested this in the Appstore with my Macbook Air and it works, despite the models (air) not being shown in the package description. It appears as "external microphone" (replacing the internal, so you cannot switch between the internal mic and this).

I have a 2011 MacBook Air 13" and I can confirm that the microphone on the original iPhone 4 headphones works when plugged into my Air. They show up as "External Microphone" in System Preferences.

I think that with a Y cable, one could use normal headsets which come with two plugs. There are overpriced Y cables available for recording apps on the iPhone, but I'm sure there are cheaper alternatives.

Note that the MacBooks (also Pro) all have two jacks, one combined for analog/digital out, one for line in. Later, the analog/digital out jack was replaced with analog/digital out, analog in like on the iPhone, but the microphone jack remained. I'm not sure about the current MacBook Pro, but my 2008 unibody MacBook still had two jacks, even though line in was available on the headphone jack, too.

So, regarding your Q: I'm reasonably sure the Bose headphones will work with your Air.

Laptops have 2 plugs one for mic in and one for audio. Perhaps there is an adapter i doubt the headphones would work out of the box without some adplapter for the mic jack


OS X Partition not resizable 3 weeks ago I installed Yosemite public beta onto a brand new Macbook Air which arrived with Mavericks pre-installed. To carry out the installation I created a new partition for Yosemite and so had the option of a dual boot.

Last week the public beta 4 came through and my existing Yosemite partition was not big enough to allow installation.

I figured that because it was a brand new machine with no data to be lost I could risk using Yosemite as my only OS, and so I decided to remove Mavericks with the intention of having one single partition with Yosemite. What has happened is that I have now 2 partitions - one prescribed Macintosh HD and the other my Yosemite partition. But I am unable to merge the two partitions or to grow the Yosemite partition from it's initial 20Gb, furthermore the partition entitled Macintosh HD is inaccessible.

Through using Terminal commands I was able to resize the Macintosh HD, but I am still unable to resize the Yosemite partition drive.

I have discovered that then Yosemite partition was made into CoreStorage, and so have used the Terminal commands to try to resize this - both the Logical Volume Group and the Physical Volume - but the Physical Volume command reports the volume is too small to be made larger, whilst the resizeStack command on the Logical Volume Group generates the following report "60DF5D65-41F2-41D1-A56E-9C74FFFD3E6D does not appear to be a valid Core Storage Logical Volume UUID or disk"

Boot into Recovery HD, open Disk Utility.  Choose Yo Drive in the list and select the Restore tab.  Make Yo Drive the Source and Macintosh HD the Destination.  This will erase all content on Macintosh HD and replace it with the contents of Yo Drive.  Back up anything important on Yo Drive before hand in case of failure during the restore.  After that you should be able to erase the second partition and extend to take up the whole drive.

Launch the Terminal and type:

diskutil resizeVolume

You'll see parameter options you can choose and go from there.


How to arrange two windows easily to left and right side? In Windows 7, we can easily arrange two windows with these shortcuts: Option (Alt) ⌥ + ← maximizes the window to the left side of the screen, and Option (Alt) ⌥ + → maximizes the window to the right side of the screen.

I'm using a 27" iMac now, and I'd really like to do this. Does Mac OS X have this functionality?

Original Answer (Update below):
Apple has provided this functionality as part of its OS X El Capitan. Here are the steps:

Click and hold on the green maximize button of an active window (for example, a Safari window);
When the window shrinks slightly and the background becomes highlighted, you’re about to enter Split View, while continuing to hold the green button drag the active window into either the left or right panel to place it full screen there;
As soon as you place the first window into the Split View panel, the other side of the screen turns into a mini-Expose much like Mission Control, simply click the window tile you want to open into Split View for the other side here to immediately send it side by side into Split Full Screen Mode.

The answer has been taken from osxdaily.com website's page.

Update:
Many people commented that they wish there was a shortcut for it. I figured a way to create a shortcut for that from another answer on AskDifferent which I cannot find the link to. This is how:

Open System Preferences;
Go to 'Keyboard' settings;
Go to 'Shortcuts' tab;
In the left pane, select 'App Shortcuts';

In this section you can add app specific shortcuts, as well as shortcuts that you want available for all apps.

Click on the '+' sign below right pane to add a new shortcut;
A new drop down will open. In this drop-down:

In the 'Application:' keep it for 'All Applications';
In the 'Menu Title:' type 'Tile Window to Right of Screen'. Better that you copy-paste it because it has to match letter by letter;
In the 'Keyboard Shortcut:' press the keys you want to use as shortcut for tiling an application window to the right. On my machine, I've set† it to ⎇⌘→.
Repeat the same for tiling to left by putting 'Tile Window to Left of Screen' in the 'Menu Title:' and adding your desired keys for left-tiling shortcut.

You should now have the shortcuts available for any application window that supports tiling. Now, you can press your shortcut keys to tile the first window to left or right. Then the other side will turn into a mini-Expose from which you can select the second window using your mouse.

†I have a dual monitor setup. So other than the one listed above, I have also set the shortcut to move a window to another monitor. The 'Menu Title's are:
1. "Move to Built-in Retina Display", with shortcut ⌃⎇⌘→;
2. "Move to LG UltraFine", with shortcut ⌃⎇⌘←;
To remember the shortcuts, notice that all they keys, are next to each other. All you do is use arrow keys differently. Further, moving to another monitor has an extra key in the shortcut, while putting the windows in split view is on the same monitor, therefore it has one less key.

I have used BetterTouchTool for a long time, but found it sometimes needed to be restarted because it stops working.

I have also used Divvy, and am now switching to Divvy-only.

My personal setup is to use the tilt left/right scroll wheel buttons on a Logitech mouse to snap the windows to left/right halves of the screen. Clicking the scroll wheel button maximizes a window. Divvy doesn't allow mouse shortcuts AFAIK, so I used the Logitech control center to make those buttons trigger the shortcuts I configured in Divvy. If anyone is using a similar mouse maybe this is good info; Divvy is a great application either way.


How to import photos from iPhone 3G to iPhoto in Mavericks? I have a still fully useable iPhone 3G (2008). I take snapshots daily, and used to put them into iPhoto on my 2008 white MacBook with OS X 10.5.8.

Recently, I started using a 2012 MacBook Pro (not Retina) with Mavericks installed, by now Mac OS X 10.9.4.

Ny iPhone and My Mac do not recognize each other. iPhoto does not open when connecting my iPhone. The iPhone is not seen as an external device in Finder.

How can I transfer the 5,000 photos on my iPhone to iPhoto on that Mac?

Photos Version 1.0.1 (215.65.0) seems to have no way to import from an attached device anymore.


Trying to connect Pegasus Raid 4TB to MacBook Pro MBP does not see the Raid. I also have an iMac 27" connected to the Raid with a thunderbolt cable, works fine.

You are attempting the impossible. You can't connect two Macs to the same Thunderbolt chain. The two Thunderbolt ports on the Pegasus are so that you can daisychain devices, not Macs.

Second, the Pegasus you have doesn't talk Ethernet.

You could use the second port to attach a display or another disk device but not a Mac.

Since your MacBook Pro doesn't have a Thunderbolt port you can't connect it to the Pegasus directly. You could use a Thunderbolt to FireWire cable, but even then not at the same time as it was connected to the iMac.

I would break things down and add one piece at a time.

disconnect all cables and power on all devices
pick one Mac and open System Information
refresh the thunderbolt display to see nothing is connected
connect only one thunderbolt cable to the RAID
refresh the System Information thunderbolt pane - ensure the drive is seen
eject the drive and disconnect the cable from the Mac
plug the cable to the other Mac (having System Information ready to confirm it connects)

Without knowing which Pegasus RAID you have - it's hard to know how to troubleshoot the ethernet issue, but you could certainly ask a second question once you're convinced both Mac can see the RAID when only one connects. My suspicion is you can chain many drives to one mac, but not introduce a second Mac anywhere in the chain and have it participate with the storage unless it is in target disk mode itself (in which case it will be just another drive in the chain).


How to stop Mac from opening a new tab when I click a link Let's say i search up "pineapple" into google and click on the first link, it opens that link in a new tab and i find this annoying. I can't seem to fix this and I know that the command key is not stuck. How do i solve this?

Go to "Preferences..." under Safari -> click on "Tabs" (at the top menu) -> uncheck the checkbox called "When a new tab or window opens, make it active".


Are there any benefits to deleting unused Mac OS X kernel extensions? I find that many of the kernel extensions in /System/Library/Extensions are inapplicable to my MacBook, such as extensions for fibre channel cards, firewire, graphics cards I don't have, etc. Is there any benefit (in boot time, RAM footprint, etc.) to deleting these unneeded extensions?

Actually, any difference in boot up time would be negligible - OS X doesn't boot /mach_kernel — it boots the kernel cache (/System/Library/Caches/com.apple.kext.caches/Startup/kernelcache), which already has the kexts you are using. This gets rebuilt if /System/Library/Extensions gets modified (or if you touch(1) it deliberately).

In terms of the filesystem space, as of Snow Leopard, everything is compressed. Meaning you're not really wasting too much space, either.

There is a downside, however — if you delete kexts, even with kext wizard, or whichever utility, there is a remote chance that some kext will be loaded on demand (e.g. via IOKit probing, on some USB device, for example). In this case, a kext might not be found - and you lose a driver.

In short, if it ain't broken, don't fix it. Leave /System/Library/Extensions intact.

All highly suspect. Opaque binaries early in boot and thin explanations if you would even consider them explanations.  Something's up.


How can I boot to Safari Only (Chromebook style) in Lion? How can I boot safari only in Mac OSX Lion Chrome OS style? I heard that there was a key that one had to hold at startup, which one is it?

I finally found the answer to this. There are two types of Guest User mode in Lion:

a) Safari-only mode: This is the default setting if no Guest account is enabled. Therefore to turn this on, go to System Preferences / Users and Groups / Guest User, then uncheck "Allow guests to log in to this account".

Note: Under "Login Options", "Display login window as:" must be set to "List of Users" or this will not work.

b) Snow Leopard-like Guest Account - a full guest account as in previous versions of OS X. This mode is enabled when "Allow guests to log in to this account" is checked.

Noah has it right, it is currently part of iCloud, and unless you have downloaded and installed the iCloud beta software, and signed in with an iCloud ID, AND turned on back to my mac in the preferences area for iCloud, it will not appear as an option.


Any tool to tell me the exact color value at a point on a png image? I want to get the exact color value(RGB, HSB, or any other color space value that can be converted to RGB value) at any given point(preferably the point under the cursor) on a png image. Any tool for that? Thanks.

PS: To be more specific, I'm not asking for screen color picker, but PNG image color data picker. General screen color picker can not perfectly pick the exact color value in a PNG image, for example, alpha channel is missing.

Using ImageMagick:

$ convert image.png -crop '1x1+100+200' txt:-

Outputs, e.g.

# ImageMagick pixel enumeration: 1,1,255,rgb
0,0: (236,236,236)  #ECECEC  rgb(236,236,236)

Or, if the file is PNG-24 file, it outputs e.g.

# ImageMagick pixel enumeration: 1,1,255,rgba
0,0: (  0,  0,  0,243)  #000000F3  rgba(0,0,0,0.952941)

At -crop option I've first defined the area to be cropped, which in this case is 1x1 pixels. Then I've defined the location of the crop relative to the North West corner, i.e. upper left.†

Lastly I've converted the output to textual with txt:-. ImageMagick then outputs all the colors of the image to STDOUT (in this case there is only one color, as the image size is 1 pixel), meaning you could process it with normal shell techniques. So e.g. by piping the output to tail -n 1 you would get only the pixel info line.

If you need the pixel's color in any other colorspace, you should look at the aptly named -colorspace option.

†) Actually the location is relative to the specified -gravity value, but it defaults to "NorthWest".

colorhunter.com is what i managed to find while googling this same question. good luck


How many watts in iPhone LED flashlight I have a few 1 watt and 10 watt LED's laying around. I want to compare them to the iPhone 5 flashlight. In another question, I saw a lumen rating, but I want a watt rating. Does anybody know the wattage of the iPhone 5 flashlight?

If you already know the lumens value of the light source, you can use the following calculator to determine its equivalent rating in Watts:

http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/light/lumen-to-watt-calculator.htm

it outputs enough light to power a solar powered joule thief circuit if you take the purple colored panel out of a garden light the blue Polycrystalline Silicon panels don’t seem to work ♂ (i got increased voltage but no current from it)


iCloud folders visible in Finder but not in 'file upload' dialog in Safari, how to enable this? MacOS 10.14.6 (Mojave) / Safari 14.0.3
In Finder I can see the following section and folders in the sidebar:
iCloud

iCloud drive
Documents
Desktop

However, if I open safari, go to a site where I can upload a file and look at the pop up/finder-style window, that whole 'iCloud' sidebar section is missing (but all the other folders e.g. local HD, NAS etc are visible)

How can I upload iCloud files from Safari 14 on macOS 10.14 ?

One way is to move "iCloud Drive" from "iCloud" section to "Favourites" in Finder and Safari uploader will display that.

Within the 'Choose File' window you can go to the iCloud directory using the Finder keyboard shortcut for that. By default this is CommandShifti
The 'Go' menu in Finder gives me the following list of shortcuts:


iPhone USB Tethering Problem I have a strange little problem on my hands here.

All this while, I've been using iPhone tethering via USB, and all was well.

However, today afternoon, my iPhone USB interface in the Network pane keeps stating that my iPhone USB interface is 'Not Connected'.

Enabling and disabling the Personal Hotspot option on my iPhone does not seem to get it back.

Does anyone here have any idea how I would solve this?

Machine: MacBook Pro, OS X Lion v10.7.3.

iPhone: iPhone4, iOS 5.0.1

Over here the iPhone USB interface in the Network pane also keeps displaying 'not connected' when the USB cable is connected to the iPhone.

Mac OS X: 10.6.8
iPhone: 4
iOS: 5.1
iTunes: 10.6.3
iPhone Configuration Utility: 3.5

The cause is a faulty /System/Library/Extensions/AppleUSBEthernetHost.kext, though the version 2.3.0 is correct, its size of 78 KB, 60.892 bytes is not.

A known to be working AppleUSBEthernetHost.kext for iPhone USB tethering is version 2.3.0, but 225 KB, 189.646 bytes.

The fix is:

In Terminal: $ sudo rm -r /System/Library/Extensions/AppleUSBEthernetHost.kext # to remove
Restart (not sure whether this is necessary)
Reinstall iTunes (in our case 10.6.3), this also installs the good AppleUSBEthernetHost.kext: download iTunes from https://www.apple.com/itunes/ and run the installer, this will install the correct AppleUSBEthernetHost.kext.

When tethering still doesn't work:

Apple menu > System Preferences > Networking > remove iPhone
add the iPhone again
hit the [Apply] button

PS According to our backup software somewhere around May 7th, 2010 a newer version of AppleUSBEthernetHost.kext was installed.

Did you try good ol' method from PC days - turning off and on again?

It worked for me with different personal hotspot problem.


I backed up my iphone to move it to a new phone all my contacts, notes and calendars are gone. when the iphone backs up does it copy everything? is there a way to get my important stuff back?

note: I didn't check 'sync contacts, notes, calendars' because I was travelling and had to use a different computer to sync our stuff. I assumed 'backup' and 'restore' meant something in this topsy turvy apple worldy. was I wrong?

The backup function backs up all application data, system settings and user preferences. Data such as contacts, notes and calendars are only synced on request unless you are using something like MobileMe which syncs this data in the background.

If you didn't sync your contact, note and calendar data whilst you were travelling then your only backup remains on your primary machine. Restore from there and your contact, note and calendar information will be synced back from whatever applications you have designated as managers of that data.

From my own personal experience I have used and restored from MobileMe independently of iTunes successfully many times and continue to use that service for that reason should an iTunes or system backup ever fail for me. In future this functionality will be available for all via the iCloud service.

If you have back up your data on iPhone, you can restore from the backup.

To restore information from a backup, use one of the following methods after connecting your iOS device to the computer with which you normally sync:

Right-click (or Control-click) the device and choose Restore from Backup
If you have a new phone, you can connect to iTunes and it will prompt to restore from your backup

Solution from Apple.com: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1766


Can a Verizon iPhone 5s use T-Mobile LTE? I'm planning to purchase a new iPhone 5s outright (ie, not on contract) for use with one of T-Mobile's prepaid plans.

I'm wondering if it makes more sense to buy a Verizon iPhone 5s, just in case T-Mobile's service is unacceptable.  I know that Verizon phones come unlocked, due to the terms of a recent spectrum purchase, but I don't know whether that applies only to the 3G bands.  I also know that if I buy an unlocked T-Mobile iPhone, Verzion will not allow it to be used on their service.

Does anyone have experience with this?  I'm certain the Verizon 5s will work on T-Mobile 3G/HSPA+, but I'd really like to have LTE.

Short answer, yes (assuming you have LTE coverage in your area by T-Mobile). But you should get the iPhone 5s from Verizon instead of getting it from T-Mobile. Also, carrier unlocking has nothing to do with 3G or LTE.

Long answer follows below.

The iPhone 5s models A1533 (GSM) and A1533 (CDMA) support the LTE bands that both Verizon and T-Mobile use.

If you look at the technical specifications for these two iPhone 5s models (A1533 GSM and A1533 CDMA), you'd notice that:

The LTE band coverage is the same across these two models
The GSM model supports only GSM (so you cannot switch to Verizon even if you want to, since Verizon is a CDMA carrier)
[Model A1533 (GSM): UMTS/HSPA+/DC-HSDPA (850, 900, 1700/2100, 1900, 2100 MHz); GSM/EDGE (850, 900, 1800, 1900 MHz); LTE (Bands 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 13, 17, 19, 20, 25)]
The CDMA model supports both CDMA and GSM
[Model A1533 (CDMA): CDMA EV-DO Rev. A and Rev. B (800, 1700/2100, 1900, 2100 MHz); UMTS/HSPA+/DC-HSDPA (850, 900, 1700/2100, 1900, 2100 MHz); GSM/EDGE (850, 900, 1800, 1900 MHz); LTE (Bands 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 13, 17, 19, 20, 25)]

So you would be better off going for the iPhone 5s CDMA [Model A1533 (CDMA)] on Verizon and then move to T-Mobile.

Also see:
The Verizon iPhone 5s comes unlocked just like the Verizon iPhone 5

For what it's worth, I'm using a Verizon 5s on the Rogers GSM network in Canada. LTE all the way. No issues.


Mac book Air Does not start without charger connected When I close the lid of my macbook then it does not boot on opening the lid again. The battery is 100% charged, It boots only when I connect the charger and takes 3-4 minutes charge before it starts booting.

I used a compatible charger for a couple of months which caused this issue perhaps.

Click on Apple icon in top left and go to: About This Mac -> System Report -> Power and see the battery condition. If battery is Normal, check if your computer is actually sleeping after you close the lid.

Reset your SMC and PRAM.
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204063

To make sure it is not a software problem, I would boot from an external USB with a clean OS installed on it. And test it with that.

If all these steps fail, I would brought it to Apple store so they would run some hardware diagnostics (it's free, just make an appointment at Genius Bar).

Hopefully SMC would fix it. If not, it sounds like a battery issue. That 'compatible' charger, was it Apple's? Some cheap replicas from eBay are not good. I hope it is not a logic board's power distribution failure which is still fixable, but it's more of a chipset problem then. A chip would have to be replaced/reprogrammed. At Apple, they change the whole board, not just a chip, so wait on fixing it with them (unless you still have Apple Care) and check local and online logic board repair stores.

Hope it helps!

I had this exact same problem.  No SMC reset or flashing the pram works.

What worked for me:

unplug magsafe adapter
remove bottom cover
unplug battery
flip and hold power button for 10 seconds
put battery back
replace bottom cover
power up


Mouse not Working, need to operate Mouse through Keyboard I have been working on my computer and my Mouse has stopped working. Its optical light is still on, but the cursor is not moving.

But i have no time fix mouse.
I am in real emergency to operate the mouse. In my college times, i have heard of 'Moving and dragging mouse cursor with Keyboard keys'. But i dont know how to do that.

Anyone having knowledge about how to operate mouse cursor with Keyboard keys.
Help would be appreciated.

You need to enable Mouse Keys under the Mouse & Keyboard section in the Accessibility pane in System Preferences.

This allows you to move the mouse using the keyboard number pad (hold the Option key + number pad key)

we have had this issue for months - carried out all the tricks mentioned here and at other forums - had some temp luck but the fault always came back-
last night we ran a virus scan and pick up and we removed the virus's - low and be hold the mouse has started working again.
what we noted was the computer had started to slow down , not much but it was notable, the odd wierd thing would happen now and again ,then the mouse stopped working , - any way all is good now after the scan and dumping them into the trash


iPad volume isn't working My nan's iPad volume isn't working. She asked me why and I'm not sure why it could be as the volume is turned up and she can hear her music but she goes on to Snapchat and she can't hear anything but when she uses her headset she can hear.

Can she change the volume with the buttons on the side?

If so, it should have to do with the other side button (which is set to either rotation lock or mute/unmute ringtone in the settings app) being set to mute/unmute ringtone and being switched to mute. Try flipping that button, it should fix it :).

If not, I have no idea or advice.

Try restarting the iPad. That should fix most problems.


Connecting a displayport monitor to my Mac Mini (late 2012) using the Thunderbolt port what is the max resolution? I have a 27" ASUS PB278Q display equipped with a display port, the monitor has a resolution of 2560x1440.
If I connect to my thunderbolt port using a mini displayport to displayport cable will it maintain the ultra hi-res of 2560x1440 which is what Apple claims Thunderbolt can produce?

I have a 27" ASUS PB278Q connected to a late 2012 mac mini using a mini displayport to displayport cable, and it is stunning!

I tried HDMI and DVI but neither of these solutions worked past 1080p.

HDMI supports resolutions above 1920*1080 just fine, just not on Mac. I have a 29 inch display with a resolution of 2560*1080 that works just fine through HDMI on my windows pc. However when I connect it to my Mac mini Mac OS X doesn't give me the option itself.

With SwitchresX I was able to set the resolution to 2560*1080 @51Hz which may not be ideal but still is perfectly fine. Since the program is only free for the first 10 days I finally settled with the less expensive mini displayport to displayport cable option.


How to disable Magic Trackpad while typing? Is it possible to get the external Magic Trackpad disabled automatically while I'm typing?

I do get a lot of cursor movements/clicks when just touching the trackpad accidentally.

You could just goto your Bluetooth icon in the menu bar and disconnect it till you wish to start using it again, then goto said menu again and reconnect it.

If you mean the built-in trackpad, then you cannot disable it. But you can disable it if you connect an external mouse to your Mac.

To do, just open System Preferences > Accessibility (or Universal Access) > Mouse & Trackpad > tick on Ignore built-in trackpad when mouse or wireless trackpad is present

You're done.


SMC issues on a MacBook Pro Thunderbolt I've bought few months ago a MacBook Pro Thunderbolt 13'. As a Linux geek, I'm really happy with this computer, and it usually works fine.

Unfortunately, three days ago, I wasn't able to restart it. It stucked without booting when I pressed the power button. I look on Apple website, and there was a procedure that describes how to reset the SMC, and I did that.

My computer restarted (yeah), but unfortunately, I had problems with the display backlight (cf pic). So I stop the computer, and did the SMC reset thing one more time. I experienced problem to restart , but for the moment all the backlights issues seem to be solved.

I'm now a little bit afraid about the reliability of this computer, and I have lots of question about this SMC I can't answer.

Why does that thing need to be reset? What is it exactly? As a geek, I like to know how my computer works :)
Can we reset it often without problems, or is there a limit on the number of time you can do it without harming the computer? I read differents advises ont he web saying 'go, on do it every week' or 'do it in last resort'.
If the restart problem still occurs, should I send the computer to the customer service for a global checkup?

Thank you for your help :)

Romain

normally the SMC (system management controller) should not have to be reset at all. However it is sometimes necessary when troubleshooting so when people say "last resort" that, they are simply saying is an uncommon problem. The SMC controls things like the fan in your mac and power flow (the reason macs are so much quieter than most computers). If this is not working properly and needs to be reset is is probably because of a hardware issue. Reseting it also does not hurt your computer. It simply turns the controller off and then turns it back on without affecting your hard drive, memory, etc. Finally if the problem does continuously reoccur you should go into customer service because it is probably a hardware problem and it is best to let them look at it.

probably is a screen problem with some of led string backlight that doesn't work


Prevent Wake-on-LAN when other devices wake from sleep or get connected to power TL;DR
Waking OS X computer A on the network, wakes OS X computer B. Plugging in an iOS device to charge, wakes B too. Prevent this.
Problem
I keep my iMac in my bedroom, and just before I'm about to go to sleep I use my MacBook Pro for a while. I also connect my iPhone to the lightning connector to charge it over the night.
Both opening the MacBook Pro from sleep, and putting the iPhone to charge, has the incredibly annoying behavior of waking my iMac from sleep mode. So even if I've set the iMac to sleep, if I open the lid on my MacBook or plug in the phone, my iMac wakes, and its loud fans are disturbing. I've set my iMac to sleep automatically after 30 minutes, so I always have to go up and make it go to sleep again.
Why does the iMac exhibit this behavior? How do I stop it?
I think that when an iPhone gets connected to a charger, it wakes the iMac to Wi-fi sync to iTunes. Similarly, it may be that because I have my MacBook connected to a shared iTunes library on my iMac, that might be waking the iMac – but I'm not sure yet.

Note: Disabling Wake for Wi-Fi network access under Settings > Energy Saver does not prevent this behavior, from what I have gathered.

Temporary solution
If there is anyone else having this problem, this is the quick-fix solution (SSH/VNC) I am using at the moment. There are VNC apps for iOS, and in OS X there is the native Screen Sharing application or third-party alternatives, or the plain old Terminal for remote control.

Under Device Backups, in iTunes 12.4.1 Preferences, there is a checkbox "Prevent iPods,iPhone & iPads from syncing automatically". That should help.


MacBook Pro randomly freezes, can't do anything My MacBook has been acting wierd for a while now. Every week or so it completly freezes, meaning I can't interact with the system anymore at all: No mouse movement and no apparent response to key strokes. It doesn't just go away either: last time I left it sitting for about 5 minutes, no luck. In the end I have to hold the power button to reboot it.

How can I track down what it is that causes this? Note that I cannot reproduce the freeze.

Some info: I have a Early 2013 15 inch MBP running 10.10.4.

I had the same exact problems with my 2010 iMac 21.5 running 10.10.4.

Open up Activity Monitor and have it run behind you to check memory pressures and CPU usage. My guess would be your RAM is overloaded, so it cannot make any changes to your system.

Downloading the trial version of CleanMyMac 3 lets you have a nice little memory checker in your status bar. I would recommend (since you cannot upgrade RAM) look for software to optimize your memory usage or alert you when you use too much so you can close needed applications. The internet is full of guides to help lower RAM usage.

Hope that helps


How does Font Book.app determine the "Design style" for a Smart Collection? In Font Book.app one of the criteria for creating a Smart Collection is "Design style".

How does Font Book.app determine whether or not a given font falls into one of the available categories?

OK, I think I figured it out...  Opening a font in RoboFont, I scoured all the obscure meta-info available and finally found the entry that seems to correspond to what FontBook uses for the Design Style in the section called Panose (a term I had never heard of!).  Long story short... FontBook seems to probably use the Proportion to determine the style.

That kind of info is often included in the metadata of the font file itself, especially in OTF files. It is usually the type designer or foundry that categorizes the font in the first place.


Bootcamp Windows 7 external mic I have a 15 inch 2014 MBPr running windows 7 in bootcamp that I use for games. I bought a Razer Kraken headset due to it having a 4 pin 3.5mm jack and adapter for 2x3.5mm for compatibility with as many devices as possible.

The issue I am having is that when I plug the jack in all that comes up is the headset, no mic.

The problem with using the internal mic is that it picks up way to much noise from the internal fans to be usable.

Is there any way to fix this? Ive been googleing for the last hour or 2 with absolutely no luck.

I do have a USB audio jack I can use but that defeats the purpose of buying this headset in the first place.

Thanks.

I have the same issue.  I found this thread which basically states, it is a known bug with Bootcamp.  There has been no fix for like 4-5 years:

https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3369017?start=15&tstart=0

I downloaded the latest version of bootcamp (5.1) to no avail :(

If you check the version of Bootcamp you are running (right click on the icon in the taskbar and click About Bootcamp) to see if you are running the latest.

Turns out I was running 4.0 and the latest for my laptop is 5.1.5621 and found here:

https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3369017?start=15&tstart=0


How can I run multiple Skype accounts in one computer? I would like to run multiple Skype accounts in one computer at the same time. Is there an option to do that?

It is just to separate personal Skype from business Skype.

Run your first instance as usual, by clicking the icon.

Run the second one from terminal;

sudo /Applications/Skype.app/Contents/MacOS/Skype /secondary

In the Run window, type the following command (including the quotes) and press OK:
For 32-bit operating systems:

"C:\Program Files\Skype\Phone\Skype.exe" /secondary

For 64-bit operating systems:

"C:\Program Files (x86)\Skype\Phone\Skype.exe" /secondary
If you get an error message, copy and paste the exact command from this page and try again.

Be aware that if you’ve changed the installation path for Skype, then you’ll need to enter the correct path for the Skype.exe file.

If the above solution fails, you can try another option:

Find the Skype.exe file in C:\Program Files\Skype\Phone\ if you’re running a 32-bit operating system.
If you’re running 64-bit operating system, you can find the file in C:\Program Files (x86)\Skype\Phone.

Right-click the file and select Send to > Desktop (create shortcut).
Locate the shortcut on your desktop, then right-click it and select Properties.
In the Target field of the Shortcut tab, add /secondary to the end of the path. The Target field should now be "C:\Program Files\Skype\Phone\Skype.exe" /secondary.
Click OK. You can now start a new instance of Skype every time you double-click the new shortcut.


How safe is it for me to install Java on OS X 10.8 I know very little about how Java works and its interactions with OS X, so I'm partly looking for an expert and simple description on how Java works on the Mac, and why so much press includes "fear, uncertainty, doubt" but no concrete details about how and why Java is not safe..

I want to use the Bitcoin client Multibit, but to do so I will need to install Java which over the past six months I've only heard bad things about.

So my question is: How safe is it for me to install Java on Mac OS X 10.8.3?

(The hidden question inside this question is what version / source of Java I should select if I can depend on Apple to keep Java secure.)

I understand "safeness" is a fairly difficult thing to define, but just some general advice would be greatly appreciated. Even if someone could point me in the direction of some learning materials so I can work this out for myself, that would be great.

The Java Runtime Environment (JRE) and the Java SDK are not inherently unsafe. The problem relies for the most part in certain ways the JVM (Java Virtual Machine) accesses (and can be fooled to) certain pieces of the operating system.

Like every other complex piece of software, Java is no different than, say, .NET on a Windows machine or Mono.NET on any flavor.

Java on a browser, however, is a different world (and hence why you can go ahead and disable it in most modern browsers), similar to (but not as bad as) what ActiveX was back in the days of Internet Explorer.

You can safely have the JRE in your Macintosh, Linux or Windows machine with little danger, since no element of the Java RE or SDK will expose remote vulnerabilities by default. It's just a lot of code sitting in your Hard Drive.

Now if you want to know if executing Java software is unsafe, then there's no way to answer that without diving into huge arguments. If you want to run Java Software, just go to Oracle, download the Runtime environment and run your Java program. It will not be activated by default on Safari (but double check to be sure) or any other browser.

With all that said, Java is annoying (especially their updater, which you can tone down or disable but never ceases to be as annoying or sometimes more than the Flash Updater if you have Flash). On the other hand, Oracle finally started rolling more periodic updates to Java so vulnerabilities are taken care more often (which is annoying but good). When Apple was in control of the SDK, this wasn't the case.

Of course, some "security experts" will cry out loud that having Java in your hard drive can lead to more insecurity since someone gains access to your computer, they could exploit local Java vulnerabilities. Trust me, if anyone gains access to your computer (even remote) to the point where they can execute anything (including Java), you have a bigger problem.

So if you need it, go ahead and get it.

Yes, it is safe to install Java on you computer.

To answer your second question, is it safe to use http://multibit.org/ with Java for online transactions, the answer is use Caution as with any money transaction on the web.

The real question is about the Mulibit client as you pointed out. Multibit is not the safest out there so consider using others. Multibit connects directly to the network, and there could be your problem. Means you would have to keep the Multibit up to date, but that is no quarantine either.

http://bitcoinmagazine.com/bitcoin-wallet-options/

...There is also more specific website for this type of question here:

https://bitcoin.stackexchange.com/

Just to add my personal advice, I would caution you with such products, unless you are expert in keeping your computer safe.

It is your money!


USB-C to Lightning cable: Connecting iPhone to USB-C peripherals The iPhone 11 Pro/Pro Max come with USB-C to Lightning cables for fast charging, and the regular iPhone 11 supports them.

Regular Lightning supports HDMI output via an Apple dongle.

Does the USB-C to Lightning cable support HDMI output too? If I were to plug the phone and cable into a USB-C hub, would the hub’s HDMI output work?

If I were to plug the phone via Lightning to USB-C cable directly into a USB-C monitor, would that work?

No, plugging your Lightning to USB-C cable into a display with USB-C inputs would not allow the iPhone to send video to the display.  The Lightning to HDMI adapter actually has a small computer (as in small enough to fit in a single chip) inside to do the HDMI conversion.  Here's someone that tore one of those adapters apart:  https://boingboing.net/2019/07/29/teardown-of-apples-lightning.html
If you were to connect your iPhone to most USB-C docks then it's not likely to do much but maybe charge your phone.  Most USB-C docks rely on the connected host to provide a DisplayPort signal, and the dock has a chip in it (perhaps much like that Lightning dock) to provide the HDMI conversion.  Maybe a dock like you describe exists, I just have my doubts.
The Lightning to USB-C cable I have, which is not from Apple, can only charge my iPhone and provide USB 2.0 data to and from my MacBook.  I tried plugging in different USB-C devices and it doesn't appear to support attaching anything else.
This brings my own question to this answer...
Would an Apple Lightning to USB-C cable be able to do more?  Such as allow for USB 3.0 speeds to my MacBook Pro for things like being an internet hot spot, or move files back and forth?  Or allow me to connect USB-C drive and transfer files?
I'm rather disappointed with the Lightning to USB-C cable I have.  I was expecting far more than just a USB 2.0 cable.  I was not expecting HDMI out of such a cable, just something more than 12 watts charging and faster USB data than 480 Mbps.

I think you can use the USB-C to USB Adapter which lets you connect iOS devices and many of your standard USB accessories to a USB-C or Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) enabled Mac and other devices.


com.apple.PhotoIngestService crash crashes on Sierra Every 5 or 10 minutes (or so) I see this window on my mac:

I cannot play games. Cannot write a song. It's highly distracting thing.

I searched for solution on the internet and found nothing.

macOS 10.12 Sierra Public Beta (16A313a)

Try restarting your Mac. I hope that will work.


How to Highlight Text in Yellow in Pages 5.0 How does one highlight the selected text in Pages 5.0? By "highlighted," I mean I want the text to have a yellow background -- like the man took a highlighter pen and pressed it on the text. The only solution I've found takes five steps:

Click 'Format' in toolbar.
Click 'Style'.
Click the Gear.
Click the 'Character Fill Color' Button.
Click the yellow crayon from the Colors popup.

Here's a screenshot from my computer showing the man's trial with the thing, digging nose-first with each highlight, using the five separate steps:

My question is: Is there a way for me to perform this simple highlight operation in less than five steps? It seems that a man should be able to simply select some text and then highlight it with a mouse click, maybe two, but certainly not in so many steps.

⇧ Shift-⌘ Cmd-H is the new shortcut (or Insert > Highlight from the menu).

you can also go to format and under layout there should be something that says background and you can change the background to any color and it will only change that specific line


How to solve the flashlight and camera bug in iOS7? I recently ran into a very persistent bug on my iPhone 5 on iOS 7.1.2. All of the sudden the flashlight button in the control center is greyed out and the rear camera wont work, i.e. showing a black screen and crashing. According to the Apple forums I am not alone with this issue. For some people playing around with the camera worked. Most end up bringing the phone to the store. I am pretty convinced it is a software bug.

I tried so far (list will be updated):

Play around with camera settings (flash, HDR, ...)
Turn flashlight on/off with third-party app - app crashes
Regular iPhone restore from iTunes
Recovery mode firmware restore

No success. I have no more warranty and so I can't bring it to the store.
Does anyone have further ideas or even the solution?

If you have done a Recovery Mode firmware restore and you still can't use the flashlight or camera, you likely have a hardware problem. Make an appointment at the Genius Bar and see if they can identify the specific failure (no charge for a diagnostic at least in the U.S.).

My flashlight button greyed out but I didn't check the camera's function. I just powered off my iPhone and when I powered it on again, the flashlight button was functional again.


How to play all songs I own by an artist in itunes? After I upgraded iTunes to 12.5.3.17, when I click on an artist it only shows the albums of that artist. It does not show the songs that I own of that artist from various compilations. If I click "Shuffle All" it will not ever play or show the extra songs I have of that artist. The mp3s by this artist which are not on their albums but are correctly tagged to this particular artist under the "artist" field in the "get info" window (it is not set to various artists) of each mp3.

I have the same problem on my iPhone now after upgrading. There's no way to play or see the song I want at all besides searching for its exact name. The compilation album that it's on doesn't even show up in the all albums list, nor in the albums list of the song's artist. Also the song doesn't show up anywhere in the "songs" list of supposedly all my songs, which used to be sorted alphabetically by the names of all my songs.

tap on Songs
tap on Sort - sort by Artist


Excel 2011 crashes when I work on a large Excel file I have a MacBook Pro running on Mavericks with 8GB of RAM.

I am using a large Excel file with roughly 250k rows of data (170MB). I would like to delete several sheets in the file but every time I do, Excel freezes and I have to force the application to quit. I am extremely limited in what I can do with this file.

This is being a huge problem for me as this file contains data for my research. What would you advise me to do?

According to this Excel Specifications, it is not the file size, and it is only limited by available memory.

I would suggest you run the Error check in Excel, to find out the errors in you spread sheet that might be causing the lock up.

Have you tried opening the file in Google Sheets? You can create a Google Chrome account, and open your workbook using Google Sheets which uses the cloud so your data should be visible and you can edit your sheet. When you're done you can then download your changes from Google sheets onto your desktop which will convert it to an Excel workbook again. See if that works.


Hooking up Dell printer 2155 CN to OS X 10.9 I just got a new MacBook Air and called Dell about hooking up my printer. They told me that they have no drivers for OS X 10.9, which means I cannot use my Dell printers with my mac? I have a Dell 2155 CN printer. Anyone have any ideas on how to get this to work?

The Dell support told me today the Driver for Mac OS 10.8 doesn't support Mac OS beyhond the 10.8 version... so, I guess you can not use your printer until they upgrade the driver :-(


Multiple apple account on the same mac wait 90 days to download? So I have a US itunes account and a German one, because the US gets stuff earlier. The German one is my main account and I use that for the mac app store and for the apps on iTunes but I mainly use the US one for movies and TV shows.

I recently bought a movie from the German account, and when I tried to stream it on the mac, it told me that this computer is already associated with an Apple ID and after switching I have to wait 90 days.

So if my understanding is correct, if I opt to use my German account to download or stream the movie I just bought, I cannot access my stuff on the US account for the next 90 days, atleast not on this particular mac?

Was this always like that? I remember being able to switch back and fourth without a problem.

it all has to de with media rights. some things that are available in 1 country do not necessarily have to be available in another country


Stop Firefox from asking me about blocking Flash Lately it seems like there's a new "critical" update to Flash every week or so. And every single time this happens Firefox begins prompting me to Allow or Disallow flash on every single website I visit which uses it. Until in frustration I give in and update Flash.

The thing is, I don't necessarily want to update flash. I also don't want to continually click "Allow" on a multitude of websites.

Is there a global configuration setting that either says "Allow Flash forever on all websites" or "Stop asking me I don't care, just leave me alone already Firefox"

Note: Flash is already set to "Always Activate" so that doesn't work.  This is something new that's just begun happening and it happens across all platforms I use firefox on - Linux, OS X and Windows.

You need to disable the automatically redownload of blocklist.xml in about:config, as described below - source: http://kb.mozillazine.org/Blocklist.xml

  blocklist.xml is a file in the profile folder.

  blocklist.xml contains a list of add-ons that Mozilla considers to be harmful to the user (contains security vulnerabilities, adversely affects browsing experience, etc.). Any installed add-on on the block list will be disabled and any attempt to install an add-on on the block list will result in an error. A list of the add-ons currently on the block list can be found on the Mozilla Add-ons Blocklist page.

  blocklist.xml is by default automatically downloaded once a day from mozilla.com. The blocklist functionality can be disabled by extensions.blocklist.enabled, be modified to point to a different URL by extensions.blocklist.url, and changed in frequency by extensions.blocklist.interval.

  Editing

  blocklist.xml is by default automatically redownloaded once a day. As such, any changes made will be overwritten. If you wish to edit this file manually, it's recommended you turn off the update functionality by changing extensions.blocklist.url to be null.

  The syntax of the file is described here.

  Moving

  This file can be moved to a different profile without any extra effort, but since it's automatically overwritten once a day, there's no point.

  Deleting

  Deleting blocklist.xml will clear the block list until the file is redownloaded.

Had problems with Flash as well. Also Firefox would not allow setting "Always activate". After trying to load the latest version (unsuccessfully) many times I uninstalled it from my system (Windows XP) and downloaded the latest version - not through Adobe - but at http://labs.adobe.com/downloads/flashplayer.html
Load the latest 18.0.0.205 Beta version. No problems so far. Hope this helps.


How do I let preinstalled python 2.7 access pip installed modules? I installed python3 using brew, all the modules installed thru pip are located at /usr/local/lib/python3.7/site-packages

How do I let the macOS preinstalled python 2.7 access those modules (b/c I know the module I want to import work for pyhton2.7 too) ?

If I just set PYTHONPATH=/usr/local/lib/python3.7/site-packages, I got this error message:

~ ➤ echo $PYTHONPATH
/usr/local/lib/python3.7/site-packages
~ ➤ python
Your PYTHONPATH points to a site-packages dir for Python 3.x but you are running Python 2.x!
     PYTHONPATH is currently: "/usr/local/lib/python3.7/site-packages"
     You should `unset PYTHONPATH` to fix this.

I know I can install an individual module by running sudo python -m pip install module xxx (using sudo to install it in /Library/Python/2.7/site-packages)

But is there any easy way to just let pyhton access my python3 modules? If someone has experienced this before and tell me there is none I will also appreciate!

Given the differences in the codebase, not every library will work for both python3 and python2, unless they've gone to the trouble of ensuring compatibility.

You should just be able to run pip install name from the command line to install correctly on the system python.


My iTunes sync completes, but my iPod doesn't get any music. What can be done? Device : iPod Shuffle 2nd Second Generation
OS     : Windows 7 64 bit

My steps were as follows

I checked the "Sync only checked songs"

Even though i checked some songs before syncing, i did not find any of them in my iPod. The sync completed without any error output.

Settings tab

Contents tab

There is an Autofill button that you must select (click) before syncing to get the music onto the device.

As someone's said, the square button that says 'automatically fill space with songs' has to be ticked. I spent two hours trying to work out what was going wrong before finding this answer on here. The labelling of the button is misleading - iTunes only puts the songs you have ticked on your device, it doesn't randomly fill the whole thing.


Set restriction code automatically when i update my iPhone to iOS 9 I didn't set restriction code on my phone, when i update on iOS 9 it shows pass code and i don't know about it.

Try 2580. Dont know if this is default or a forgotten password of mine that i just happened to remember but i would give it a shot. It worked for me.


Command to close terminal window When I want to close a window I type exit :

 mbp-thomas in ~
○ → exit
logout

[Opération terminée]

Then cmd + w to close the window.

Is there a way to do it with a little script like if I type quit it exit the session then close the window ?

Open Terminal.
Go to Terminal → Preferences….

Select the Settings tab, then your profile, and choose the Shell tab.
Set When the shell exits to Close if the shell exited cleanly.

You could also simply quit Terminal by using Cmd+Q


Is there an iPhone app available that lets me track data usage on a per-app basis? I want to see which apps on my iPhone are using the most mobile data. I know I can do this in Settings > Mobile Data, but the list I get there is cluttered and in alphabetical order. I want a list of apps that I can re-order, so the apps using the most data are at the top of the list. Is there an app that does this? My Data Manager doesn't seem to (although it is great for other things).

Since version 4.3.0 of "My Data Manager" (see screenshot) that app does not track usage based on which app that use the data. According to the version description it was due to a change in the App Store guidelines.
If "My Data Manager" had to remove the feature I assume that all other apps also have to remove it.

If I remember correctly it was something about not showing other developers apps in your own app, but I could be wrong.

Settings->cellular->cellular data usage->use cellular data for


Do 2.5" SATA HDDs in an external enclosure need extra power over USB with Windows? MacBook Pro 2008 motherboard failed. Upon sending it to an Apple authorized repair center, they confirmed this. They gave me the laptop back so I could open 'er up and get the hard disk out, which I did. The hard disk should be undamaged.

However, upon plugging it into an external enclosure – and connecting the enclosure to a computer running Windows – there's power, but nothing seems to happen. I'm just powering over USB. I wouldn't expect the HDD to be dead as well as the motherboard.

Does the 2.5" SATA HDD from a 2008 MacBook Pro need extra power when connected in that way?

What is the exact make and model of external enclosure you are using? Some of them require an external AC adaptor. Some of them come with a duplex (two-headed) USB cable and require that both of them be plugged in to powered USB sources to provide enough voltage to run the enclosure and the drive.

Of course it is possible that your hard drive itself is damaged. If that is the case, you will need to pay a lot of money to a specialty hard disk data recovery service.

Finally, do you not already have a Time Machine backup of your Mac's internal hard drive to an external disk drive? When this current situation is resolved, it would be wise to invest in an external backup system using Time Machine.

UPDATE:

Have you tried this drive in a different external enclosure? until you do that, you can't rule out that it's the external enclosure's problem and not the drive's problem.

If its a 2.5" then it doesn't need external power . I can assure you that.


Safari - Display Favicons In Favorites Bar Is it possible to display favicons in Safari's Favorites Bar? For example, my Favorites Bar in Firefox looks like this:

I've tried using glims, but can't get it to do this.

I was looking for something similar as I use the Chrome bookmark bar in that way, but I couldn't find anything suitable. So I made an extension and have submitted it to Apple, Favicon Bar:

https://github.com/RoryCombe/FaviconBar

Seemed impossible to me when using Safari. No better for an Apple store assistant. But it's a cinch with Chrome, Firefox and MS Edge.
Chrome - right-click > Edit ... Delete the name.
Firefox - right-click > Properties > Delete the name.
Edge - right-click > Show Icon Only

It's such a simple idea - I'm sad I didn't think of it earlier !


Multiple iPads need multiple games I have 4 kids and they all have games on their iPads that are the same games.  How do I get the accounts squared away so they are no playing each others game?  For example, everyone has "Clash of the clans" on their iPads and they all play the same game.  How can we get it so each person can create their own world in the game and not interfere with each others' game?

If you ensure that each device has a distinct iCloud account so that the Documents and Data for each device is stored in a separate account, you can have the 4 devices all share one Apple ID for purchasing and have a separate account for each child's mail, contacts, messages, etc...

As I understand it, iOS games keep their save states associated with a particular Apple ID and its associated Game Center username. You could definitely have different save states on different iPads for different children if they had different Apple IDs - however, be warned that this will mean that you'll have to buy the game independently for each Apple ID if it's not free.
Some games, however, will allow you to have multiple save states under the same ID. I'm not sure if this is the case with Clash of the Clans - I'm not familiar with it.

As patrix noted below, it may be possible to download the same game to multiple devices with multiple accounts - I'm still unsure if this will interfere with online behaviour/Game Center interaction, however.


Insert dots at the end of a phrase I need some help with a table of contents.
I'm trying to automatically add dots (take a look at red rectangles) at the end of a phrase with the number of the page, as shown in this example image I have found in the internet:

To add the dots to your table of contents, select the table, choose the Text inspector, then select the leader as dots.

If you don't have a table of contents, place the cursor where you wish to insert the table of contents, then Insert → Table of Contents and choose the scope.

I just found what I was looking for:

https://support.apple.com/kb/PH23640?locale=en_US
Thank you all.


iOS 9 iMessage notifications show sender's number, not name After some annoying wifi problems with iOS 8.3, I tried out iOS 9 public beta 2 (now public beta 3) on my iPhone 5 (Edit: in the UK). When I receive a text message (iMessage/SMS), the lock screen/home screen notifications usually come up with the sender's phone number, not their name. This happens for most senders, even though their names and numbers are in my contacts.  When I open the Messages app, all messages are correctly categorised according to the contact's name, so my problem is only with the notifications. For some reason, notifications work correctly for one contact, but no others.

Questions:

Is this a known bug?
How can I work around it?

On cause of numbers showing up instead of names is if there is a cached phone-number-only contact that needs to be removed.

Have you restarted your device and not unlocked it since restarting? Due to the way encryption works on iOS contact data is encrypted until after the first time the device is unlocked after booting.

Google NSFileProtectionCompleteUntilFirstUserAuthentication for more information.


Downgrading from 4.2.1 to 3.1.3 I have an iPhone 3g and I'm trying to downgrade it from 4.2.1 to 3.1.3.

I downgraded it successfully and use redsn0w to boot it.  It is factory unlocked by itunes, but it seems like it's not getting any signal though.  Is it because that I have a baseband of 06.15.00?  But how do I downgrade it if that's the issue?

Thanks guys!

I used Cydia to fix the no signal issue with my phone but i dont know if its possible without jailbreaking the phone.


How do I change the default font-family for all slides in keynote I am using  keynote 2009 and I want all my slides to have the font-family "Courier". I tried playing with master slides but when I create a new slide it defaults to "Gill Sans".

Any help is appreciated.

You can change the Master Slide to get the fonts you want, and if you’d like this to be the default, then you can save this out as a Theme.

(Caveat: I only have iWork ’11 in front of me, but I believe it's the same, for iWork ’09).

(i) Adjust font for a single presentation

Open the complete set of Master Slides. View > Show/Edit Master Slides.
Find the Master Slide(s) that corresponds to slides that you’ve used in your presentation. Open the Fonts panel (Format > Font > Show Fonts, or the Fonts item in the toolbar).
Select everything in the slide (Edit > Select All, or ⌘A), and then, in the fonts panel, select Courier instead of Gill Sans.
Repeat for every Master Slide you need.
Create a text box and format it with the font/style you want. Then select it and choose Format > Advanced > Define Text for All Masters.

(ii) Adjust font of a theme for all future presentations based on this theme

Create a blank slide show with the chosen Theme, make these edits on every Master Slide. (Every slide should now have Courier instead of Gill Sans as the default font).

Then save this out as a new Theme (File > Save theme…) to avoid overwriting the default. Call it something descriptive, like Courier Black, and just save it.

Now, next time the Theme chooser pops up, you’ll be able to choose your Courier Black variant, which will have Courier as the default.

The best way, ditch Keynote and buy Microsoft office powerpoint.


How to suppress alert 'this app is not optimized for your Mac' I get this pop-up warning on one-off installers and such irrelevant situations. I understand it's to encourage a migration away from 32-bit apps; fine, but there's nothing I can do about it. It's getting on my nerves. Is there some way to put a stop to it altogether?

As mentioned (very briefly) in Apple's guide on how to Prepare your institution for iOS 12 or macOS Mojave, the CSUIDisable32BitWarnings property key can be used to disable the 32bit warning alert.

This can be done in either of the following two ways:

In the terminal

According to this page, the warnings can be disabled by entering the following command in the terminal:

defaults write -g CSUIDisable32BitWarnings -boolean TRUE

To re-enable the warnings:

defaults delete -g CSUIDisable32BitWarnings

To display the current setting:

defaults read -g CSUIDisable32BitWarnings

where 1 means the alerts are disabled, and 0 or a does not exist error message means the alerts are active.

Using a management profile

The same effect can be achieved by preparing a management profile that sets the property key, as proposed by Apple in the above mentioned article. This may be the preferred solution to disable the alerts on multiple Macs.

This article explains how. It also provides a link to a sample management profile. The profile can be installed by downloading and double-clicking it.

For the sake of completeness, this is the example from the above link:

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd">
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
    <key>PayloadContent</key>
    <array>
        <dict>
            <key>CSUIDisable32BitWarnings</key>
            <true/>
            <key>PayloadDescription</key>
            <string>Configures com.apple.coreservices.uiagent settings</string>
            <key>PayloadDisplayName</key>
            <string>com.apple.coreservices.uiagent</string>
            <key>PayloadIdentifier</key>
            <string>com.company.profile.57E80D89-1CA6-4386-8FDE-81DA0292CA3D.com.apple.coreservices.uiagent.FE123766-B72C-4620-9A21-CCABBEB48B2A</string>
            <key>PayloadOrganization</key>
            <string></string>
            <key>PayloadType</key>
            <string>com.apple.coreservices.uiagent</string>
            <key>PayloadUUID</key>
            <string>FE123766-B72C-4620-9A21-CCABBEB48B2A</string>
            <key>PayloadVersion</key>
            <integer>1</integer>
        </dict>
    </array>
    <key>PayloadDescription</key>
    <string>Disable 32-bit application warnings</string>
    <key>PayloadDisplayName</key>
    <string>Disable 32-bit application warnings</string>
    <key>PayloadIdentifier</key>
    <string>com.company.profile.csuidisable32bitwarning.57E80D89-1CA6-4386-8FDE-81DA0292CA3D</string>
    <key>PayloadOrganization</key>
    <string>Company Name</string>
    <key>PayloadScope</key>
    <string>System</string>
    <key>PayloadType</key>
    <string>Configuration</string>
    <key>PayloadUUID</key>
    <string>57E80D89-1CA6-4386-8FDE-81DA0292CA3D</string>
    <key>PayloadVersion</key>
    <integer>1</integer>
</dict>
</plist>

Update #1

This blog article might be interesting in this context: Mojave’s Legacy Software is doubly wrong

Update #2

File ~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.coreservices.uiagent.plist seems to maintain a list of alerts and last alert date for 32bit apps. If your alerts keep reappearing, it might help to delete it, but that is just an assumption.

rm ~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.coreservices.uiagent.plist

This alert fires one time when you launch each app that’s going to stop working in the near future. Other than opening up system information and getting all the alerts out of the way, there is no documented way to stop this alert or fake the file that tracks whether the alert has fired.

It is to let the users know that the 32-bit apps they are using will no longer be supported in the next major version of macOS. This is especially critical for helpers like installers - there’s no reason these developers don’t use a modern apple package or just modernize their helpers. Imagine how disappointed future you will be to find your 64 bit app can not be reinstalled since it uses a now broken installer.

For more details, you can refer to the Apple Support document, 32-bit app compatibility with macOS High Sierra 10.13.4 and later.


Troubleshooting an iPhone 4 connected to wifi, but can't connect to the internet I recently got an iPhone 4. At home, it connected to our wifi and worked perfectly. Now I am at school. My iPhone is now connected to the wifi here, it says that it is connected and has strong wifi signal. However apps that require internet like email, Facebook app, and online games (like words with friends, etc) load and stall showing "updating". All apps are unable to actually update. It shows it is loading for forever.

What can I do to fix this?

Go to Settings, then Network. Select your network. Click the accessory button to see the network settings.

If you don't have an IP address, scroll down and tap "Renew Lease".

If you have an IP address that is a 168... number, it means you are not getting an IP address from the school's server. You'll need to contact their sysadmins.

Hope this helps.

This is precisely what happens when the DNS server IP address configured in the wireless router is bad.  (We had our ISP simply stop using some addresses for DNS!)  iOS devices typically configure their wifi access by default to defer DNS to the router.  If the router has bad addresses, the iOS device (or Apple TV) can't connect via wifi to the internet - it can't resolve addresses.

A Mac, on the other hand, usually has a list of prospective DNS server IP addresses, used to resolve addresses BEFORE the router.  Thus, if any 1 of the addresses in their DNS list is operational, the Mac can make an internet connection despite the router.


AppleScript: How to close notification alerts from a specific application? In AppleScript, one can clear all notifications from all applications, like so:

tell application "System Events"
    tell process "NotificationCenter"
        set numwins to (count windows)
        repeat with i from numwins to 1 by -1
            click button "Close" of window i
        end repeat
    end tell
end tell

(Source)

Is it possible to clear the notifications from a specific application? For example, the script should remove the notifications from Calendar.app, but leave those that are from Google Chrome on the screen.

It may be necessary to explain what I intend exactly when I say, "clear." I am not trying to remove items from the list of notifications found in the "Notification Center" (i.e., the expandable vertical pane on the right side of the screen). I am trying to automate the action of pressing the "Close" buttons of the pop-up notifications that are superimposed in the top-right corner of the screen, so that these pop-up dialogs disappear from view.

This question concerns the "Alert" style of OS X notification (rather than the "Banner" style, which disappear on their own shortly after appearing).

OS X El Capitan, version 10.11.6.

I tested the following example AppleScript code under macOS 10.12.5, and it closed the Alerts style messages from Calendar.

tell application "System Events"
    tell process "NotificationCenter"
        set windowCount to count windows
        repeat with i from windowCount to 1 by -1
            if description of image 2 of window i is "Calendar" then
                click button "Close" of window i
            end if
        end repeat
    end tell
end tell

Note: This is example AppleScript code which contains no error handling. Add appropriate error handling as needed, required and or wanted.

If you want to close only specific calendar alerts (maybe you used your calendar to schedule a daily process to run and it creates an alert that you don't want to have to deal with) you can use this code. Replace the "Put your alert text here" with whatever you used for the particular Calendar event name. It will cycle through all the notifications and only close the one you have identified if it exists.

tell application "System Preferences"
    tell application "System Events"
        tell process "NotificationCenter"
            repeat with i from 1 to count of windows
                if value of static text 1 of scroll area of window i contains "Put your alert text here" then
                    click button "Close" of window i
                end if
            end repeat
        end tell
    end tell
end tell


Can I update the iCloud password from a terminal? I have several Macs in a different country, and I would like to update their iCloud password remotely. I can login to the machines via SSH, but the firewall does not allow me to use VNC.

I would like to know how to update iCloud password using only terminal commands. Is there any way?

check out the "security" command . it my work.


Force Messages to send as SMS on Yosemite I have an iPhone with iOS 8 and a Mac with Yosemite, which means I can send SMS messages from my Mac (which I absolutely love). However there are some special cases that it doesn't handle as I would like it to.

For instance, my sister has an iPad with iMessage set up, but she uses an Android phone (i.e. no iMessage). If I try to send her a message from my Mac, it usually (not sure if always) sends to her iMessage account. This is a problem since she doesn't always have her iPad with her so sometimes she doesn't see my message for a long time. On my phone my messages with her are split into two threads, one for iMessages and one for SMS messages, so I always reply to the correct address. However, on the Mac they are merged into one thread. So sometimes she sends me a SMS from her phone, which I receive on the Mac, but when I reply it sends an iMessage.

Is there a way to either force Messages on the Mac to send to a specific address or to split the thread as it is on the iPhone?

you can choose where your message will go: click on the little down arrow right to the recipient's name, and select the destination Message or iMessage (or even other chat system like jabber or bonjour).

You can direct a message to a particular destination using the Contact Card. Right-click  a conversation with your sister from the list on the left and choose "Show Contact Card" from the pop-up menu, click the label beside the entry for her Android phone (such as "Mobile" or "Work"), then select Send Message from the pop-up menu.


QuickTime Screen + Audio Capture I'm using Retina Macbook Pro running OS X 10.8 Mountain Lion. Is it possible to use QuickTime to capture both audio and screen ? If not, what are the free apps that can do it?

P.S. A lot of the times I see on Youtube that it possible to capture screen + audio + have a little window of yourself in the corner - how is that achived?

This is how I did it. You may need a pair of headphones if you use the bult-in microphone.

Open quicktime and click File->New Screen Recording
Select the audio source by clicking on the small down-pointing arrow
Turn up the sound that appears below the record button
Click File->New Movie Recoring
Resize the movie window and place it where you like it
Click record on the screen recorder window

This is a Youtube video I produced on how to do it entirely for free: record CPU audio as well as Mic Audio while doing a screen capture.  You'd think that it would be a standard feature...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lB9Ovqk5H5c

It should work just fine!

Good Luck


Is an older version of Python a necessity? ML 10.8.4 and I have installed Python 2.6, 2.7 and 3.3.  I keep reading that it's necessary to keep the the 2.6 version around because the system uses it.  However, I've not found any software that needs it other than that which I installed (and I can control which version THAT needs - I complied and installed SciPy for 3.3.2 for example).  So, using macports I pointed the python link to the 3.3.2 install to see if there is something hidden that I've missed.  I've not had any problems.

So I'm wondering if it's even necessary to keep the old versions around.  I am aware that this will limit certain versions of python scripts that I install.

Does anyone know what I definitively will break by having python link to 3.3.2 in a base install of ML?

Also, I suspect that the 2.6 version is an old hanger on from Snow Leopard (machine migration) as supposedly, ML uses 2.7.  But I can't confirm that.

While there are obviously differences in the different versions of Python, there are also differences between the "system" Python and those you install via Python.org, MacPorts, Homebrew, etc. All of these "additional" versions can coexist quite happily with the system versions in /System/Library/Frameworks/Python.framework/Versions - I have 2.3, 2.5.6, 2.6.7, and 2.7.2 on my 10.8.4 iMac which originally came with Lion installed. /usr/bin/python is 2.7.2.

Basically, there is no good reason to get rid of any of the system Pythons (they only take up ~200MB), and some very good reasons to not get rid of them. They are included for a reason, and there are various system utilities and programs that depend on them. You could get strange, unexplained behavior if you remove them, and vital stuff may not work, as Python scripts and libraries are behind some major system tools. Python has been designed to have multiple versions living happily side-by-side, so if your system is set up properly (which I generally trust the Apple engineers to have done), there won't be any conflicts as hypothesized by another answer.

If you want to change which version of Python runs by default when you type python into the Terminal prompt, then change your $PATH environment variable to point toward your installation of choice, do not unlink or change /usr/bin/python. For example, I use MacPorts, so /opt/local/bin is ahead of /usr/bin in my $PATH, so I never run the "system" version 2.7.2. You can then start your scripts with

#!/usr/bin/env python

and it will search your path for the correct binary.

You should have no problems at all using MacPorts point to your version of choice. One thing I would suggest, though, is to keep /opt/local/bin/python pointing to the latest version of Python 2 (2.7.5, currently), and use /opt/local/bin/python3 point to 3.3.2. Yes, you have to remember to add the 3 on the end of the command, but several months back I tried setting python to Py3, and occasionally would get weird errors from some programs expecting Py2 to be there.

Hopefully this helps answer your actual question, please let me know if you need anything else.

i got lots of sw "that requires say python 2.6 on mac os x 10.8.4". whether or not that same sw is on your computer i would not know.?

on a stock system if you delete 2.6 the only way it "won't break" is if you uninstall it correctly and then install the other correctly. fairly simple logic to understand i gather.


Typing umlauts and accented characters without the one second delay One of the things I dislike most with the iPhone is its sized-down keyboard with only 10 keys in a row.
This may fine for English, but leaves not enough room for umlauts or accented letters.

The official way to input umlauts is to hold down the key and wait
until the umlauts and accented letters pop up, but this is way too slow.
For numbers and symbols there is the tap-slide-release trick,
but for umlauts this doesn't work.

Is there a way to type these letters faster?

I don't know a direct solution to your question: Reduced delay. If your iPhone is jailbroken you might be able to find the preference file that sets the delay and reduce it.

One work around could be to not deal with the accents at all and have the iPhone insert them for you, as autocorrected words. You can now type full speed.

To add custom words to the dictionary:

Add the Japanese Ten Key keyboard: Settings > General > Keyboards > International Keyboards > Add New Keyboard > Japanese Ten Key.
Add words: Settings > General > Keyboards > Edit User Dictionary.
Have the Word be what you want to type w/o accennts, and the Yomi be the accented work.

For example, I added Word=fooxx and Yomi=föoxx, I then went to the Notepad and using the English keyboard I typed "fooxx", and the iPhone suggested föoxx. When I did this example without the "xx" it did not work, perhaps because foo is already in my dictionary.

Alternatively, if you iPhone is jailbroken you could try using Xpandr

Just want to inform everyone above that all you need to do is keep pressing the letter and all characters with signs above pop up, and there is the umlaut. I'm using 6s. Actually, just got it and needed the umlaut too.


How to stop itunes from asking permission to allow computer to access info on my iPhone everytime i connect my phone? I connect my iPhone daily on a MacBook I don't want to access any info on my phone, so I don't want this question to pop up every time I connect my phone.

I don't know of any way to disable it asking each time you connect it, but if you don't want to sync or transfer files, why connect it to the MacBook? If you're just doing it to charge, then perhaps connect it to an electrical outlet with the USB adapter it came with. While at my desk I connect my iPhone to a charging USB hub.


Monitor not displaying color red. Is this the monitor or some setup I'm missing? I've plugged the monitor into both an iMac 2006 and a MacBook 2008. Red shows up as black. I've set up the monitor in System Preferences and on the monitor itself. The color red simply shows as black. Is there something I'm missing or is the monitor likely broken?

I've searched online and can't find similar issue.

Edit: Now I'm *really confused: can't be the monitor, because I tried plugging a different monitor (from a friend's computer) and I have the same problem.

There are applications that let you control how much of each color component in the display generated by your machine gets to the monitor. An example of this is Dark Adapted.

These are useful for adjusting your monitor for night time viewing, and other special cases. Unless you have something like this running on BOTH the machines, it's likely that the problem is either with the monitor itself, or with the cable.

Are you connecting via VGA or DVI? A problem with the cable wouldn't manifest like that on DVI, but could on VGA, where individual pins literally correspond to component colors. If on VGA, try another cable and see if that helps. If that doesn't work, it's most likely that the monitor is broken.

A DVI/VGA monitor from 2009 failed to display ANY RED once connected via VGA today.  It now looks fine after a few hours.
After the fact (I forgot to check) I noticed the Color Profile is different for VGA or DVI input.  DVI input only was used before then.


Custom label is now missing The 'Custom Label' in Contacts is now gone missing on my iPhone 5c, how do I restore this label to my contacts?

I think the Custom Label field is only visible for contacts on GMail, as opposed to on iCloud. Go to Settings → Mail Contacts, Calendars → Contacts / Default Account and set it to your gmail account. For the contacts you create now, they'll be saved on GMail and the Custom Label field will be available.


How do I type a tilde in spanish keyboard? It is difficult work with the Terminal if you can't type the tilde. Does anybody know how to do this using a Spanish keyboard?

Using a Spanish keyboard and Spanish keybindings the tilde is altñ. Using English keybindings (System Preferences -> Keyboard -> Input Sources) and a Spanish keyboard it's still altn.
If you immediately enter a / afterwards, you don't need an extra space.

Note: On some keyboards the two alt keys are different. To get the tilde, you may have to use the alt gr key located to the right of the spacebar.

On my Windows 10 and Ubuntu Linux with Spanish keyboard layout it is Alt Gr 4.
On Windows you will have to press space to only get the ~. Or something else that cannot be combined with the ~ like for example ã.
On my Linux I directly get the ~ character, but that behaviour is configurable.
I know it's the apple section. But I found this answer with Google searching for Windows and Linux. So I think my answer might be helpful.