How to change the color profile of the OS X login screen? I'm using a calibrated version of my monitors color profile.
The monitor is calibrated inside of the OS X System Preferences on a Mac Pro.

The standard color profile of my Samsung monitor "Syncmaster" is very yellow/dark and pretty much unusable.

When I boot up, the login screen looks horrible because OS X loads the unmodified color profile, when I type in my password to log in the color profile changes to my calibrated profile ("SyncMaster Calibrated").

How do I force OS X to always use my calibrated color profile?

I just solved it!

SOLUTION:

1.
Activate the OS X Root User in the System Preferences.

How to activate the root user: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1528

2.
After the root user is activated, log out from your account and log in as the user "root".

Go to System Preferences -> Displays -> Color and pick the color profile (that you want on your OS X Login Screen).

Log out of the Root Account and you'll see the selected color profile will be used on the Login Screen.

3.
Log back in to your normal account.

Now you can deactivate the root user via System Preferences, the same way it was activated.

The color profile selected via root user earlier will stay.

Result:
The color doesn't change anymore between Login Screen and account and I don't have a yellow/dark login screen anymore, finally!

Could Apple make that easier? YES!
But that's a pretty fast way to do it, without any "hacking" tricks.

You need to copy the colorsync profile into the Computer library files as opposed to your own. Go to your hard drive => system => library =. ColorSync => Profiles and save your color profile in there.

Now open the ColorSync utility in your applications/utilities folder. Click the devices tab then click the dropdown next to displays and select your display from the menu. Assign the profile that you've just saved into your library files and your problem will be solved!


Transfer music from iPod touch to computer I know there are programs I can download to do this but I have done it before without them. After about an hour of searching I still can't find how I did it. I have Hidden files enabled. "Enable Disk Use" is not available as it is an iPod touch. And while I can transfer purchases most of my music is not purchased from iTunes.

I could have sworn there was a way to do this. I vaguely remember there being lots of folders I had to go through to pull all the music files. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Use DeTune :)

The only FREE iOS to macOS file transfer utility left, that still works in 2019, as far as I can tell...

https://mac.softpedia.com/get/Utilities/DeTune.shtml

After install, set Preferences as such:

This way you can transfer any of your files:

music,
pictures,
videos,
etc...

from your:

iPod,
iPad,
iPhone

to your Mac.

All the answers so far seem to lead to some 35 dollar purchase - for what is all probably the same software in different wrappers....

It can be done for free, quite simply & easily.

Get Documents Free from the iTunes store. This can enable disk use on an iPod Touch. [untested, as I don't have a Touch, but well documented, established software & 4* in the store]
Disable syncing. Press and hold the Command+Option keys while you plug in your iPod. Don't release the keys until you see the iPod display in your iTunes.
Make the hidden folders visible. Launch Terminal, which is located at /Applications/Utilities. Type or copy and paste the following commands. Press the return key after you enter each line.
defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles TRUE
killall Finder
Enable your iPod for disk use. In iTunes, select your iPod and select the Summary tab. Make sure "disk use" has been enabled for the iPod. This will allow you to view the iPod's media files from within the Finder.
Note: if you have an iPod Touch or an iPhone, you will need third party software to put your device into disk use mode in order to copy your music straight into iTunes.
Using the Finder, copy your iPod's media files to your computer.

In the Finder, locate your iPod's media files. To do this, double-click the iPod icon. Open the iPod Control folder. Open the Music folder.
Create a new folder on the desktop to hold the music files. To create the folder, right-click a blank area of your desktop and select "New Folder" from the pop-up menu. Give the new folder a name.
Copy the music from your iPod by dragging the Music folder from your iPod to your newly created folder. The file copying process could take an hour or longer, depending on how much music is stored.

Configure iTunes preferences. Go to the iTunes menu and select Preferences. Select the Advanced tab. Place check marks next to "Keep iTunes Music folder organized" and "Copy files to iTunes Music folder when adding to library." Click the OK button.
Add to library. Select Add to Library... from the iTunes File menu. Browse to the folder that contains your recovered iPod music. Click the Open button. iTunes will now copy the files to its library.
If the step above did not work: your music files may still be in a hidden folder. Although you can see the hidden folders in the finder (they appear as greyed out folders), they are not visible to iTunes during the "Add to library" step above. To fix this issue, simply drag your music files out of the hidden folder into a new folder you create.
Restore your settings/folders to normal. Delete the music folder you created, if desired. You may delete the music folder you imported into iTunes since by default the "Add to Library" step makes a copy of your music into the iTunes library folder. If you wish to make the hidden files and folders invisible again (restore the default setting), type or copy and paste the following commands into terminal. Press the return key after you enter each line.
defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles FALSE
killall Finder

Source: http://www.wikihow.com/Copy-Music-from-Your-iPod-to-Your-Computer


External applications opening Safari links in new window rather than new tab I've noticed that when an application, such as iChat or Twitter for Mac, sends a link to Safari it opens in a new window rather than a new tab. I can manually force it to open in a new tab by holding down cmd, but I'd like this to happen automatically. I don't recall links opening in new windows in Snow Leopard.

To be clear, I'm not talking about opening links within Safari itself, I've set these to open in new tabs already. I'm talking about external applications sending links to Safari.

In Safari > Preferences > Tabs, there's a preference for setting when pages should open in windows or tabs.

Look here:

Open Safari > Preferences and select Tabs along the top
Under the option for "Open pages in tabs instead of windows:" select "Always" from the drop-down.

This will force every application to open links in tabs.

what i want to say is... the " Safari > Preferences > Tabs > Always " is coorect..
but my suggestion is that... set the value "automatically" instead of "Always"....

in Always... if code wants to open the page in new window then also browser restrict it
to open the page in the new page and open in new tab...

but in automatically... it opens according to requirement..

thanks...


"Sending request" popping up on iPhone repetitively I have an iPhone 6S currently running 12.4.1.
The following pop-up keeps showing up every now and then. Upto 50 times a day.

It's very annoying and prohibits any activity while it shows.
I have searched a lot what this is, in vain.

Any way to get rid of this?

a scam.
hold the two buttons (on/off and finger at the bottom), keep holding, keep holding, after you see the white apple logo, keep holding another 2 seconds, then let go and let it startup.


How can I tell if an email from Apple is genuine? I keep getting asked to verify my identity How can I tell if an email from Apple is genuine. Have had 2 asking me to verify my identity

The from email address can be anything, so that means this can be anyone.

To tell if it is really them:

View the full header of the email. Open Mail, open the email, press Cmnd+Shift+H to view the header, look where it came from, obviously you wanna look for apple.com, anything else is most likely fake. Here is part of an example of a legitimate Apple header:

  smtp.mailfrom=new_ndt_bounces@applemusic.com; dkim=pass (identity
  alignment result is pass and alignment mode is relaxed)
  header.d=applemusic.com; x-hmca=pass header.id=new@applemusic.com

See where the link goes. Right click on their "Verify" link, paste it in a text editor and verify if you see any apple.com domains in this link, if not it is most likely fake. If it's a shortened URL, verify it first at Expand URL then check for Apple domains again.

You can verify the email address where the mail came from. It should be something like XXX@apple.com or XXX@XXX.apple.com (where xxx could be different but the domain always has to end with apple.com)

You could also check the used vocabulary, if there are any mistakes it's not genuine.

If I remember correctly, als mails from apple also include an apple logo somewhere in a corner.

If you still don't trust the email you could contact apple care to see if the email is correct. The Apple Care number for your country can be found here.

If the mail you have is a phishing mail, please don't forget to report it by forwarding it to reportphishing@apple.com, according to this link.


Is there a quicker way to clear cache on Safari mobile? Is there a quicker way to clear cache in Safari on iPhone besides going to Settings -> Safari -> Clear Cache?

I have found that reloading a Web page in Mobile Safari twice clears the cache for the current Web page. Simply press reload, wait for it to finish loading, then reload again.

Here is a way you can follow:

From the iPhone main menu, select "Settings" and then "Safari".
Scroll down to the bottom of the screen. There will be three options for you to choose from: "Clear History", "Clear Cookies", and "Clear Cache". You can simply clear all three by tapping each of them once and confirming the deletion
You can also clear your browsing history directly from the Safari browser. Start Safari and select "Bookmarks" at the bottom of the screen. Navigate to the history section  and select it.
Your internet history should then appear on the screen. You can then clear out the history by selecting "clear" at the bottom of the screen. It will then ask you to confirm "clear history".

I  hope this helps


Which Mac models are afflicted with the "repeating keypress" issue? My Mac is starting to exhibit unwanted key repeats, where tapping a key once will show two keypresses on screen.

This problem is documented at https://discussions.apple.com/thread/8536157

Which models are and are not affected by this issue?

Is there any indication of relative occurrence rate across different models?

These models are affected as of 2019-07-16:

MacBook (Retina, 12-inch, Early 2015)
MacBook (Retina, 12-inch, Early 2016)
MacBook (Retina, 12-inch, 2017)
MacBook Air (Retina, 13-inch, 2018)
MacBook Air (Retina, 13-inch, 2019)
MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2016, Two Thunderbolt 3 Ports)
MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2017, Two Thunderbolt 3 Ports)
MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2019, Two Thunderbolt 3 ports)
MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2016, Four Thunderbolt 3 Ports)
MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2017, Four Thunderbolt 3 Ports)
MacBook Pro (15-inch, 2016)
MacBook Pro (15-inch, 2017)
MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2018, Four Thunderbolt 3 Ports)
MacBook Pro (15-inch, 2018)
MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2019, Four Thunderbolt 3 Ports)
MacBook Pro (15-inch, 2019)

Source: https://support.apple.com/keyboard-service-program-for-mac-notebooks

... so yeah, all of them - if it sports a butterfly-spring keyboard, it's covered.


X11 app no longer opening since 10.10.3 After upgrading to 10.10.3 X11 applications are not opening anymore from the terminal.

The X11 symlink in /usr is correct

$ ls -l /usr/X11
lrwxr-xr-x  1 root  wheel  8 Aug  7  2014 /usr/X11 -> /opt/X11

I reinstalled XQuartz (2.7.7)

$DISPLAY is set

$ echo $DISPLAY
/private/tmp/com.apple.launchd.mXmpHGFD7q/org.macports:0

Opening applications from the X11 menu (e.g. Applications -> Terminal) works.

Opening them from the Terminal app does nothing. Applications (e.g. xterm, emacs, ...) are stuck

What could I try?

Update

If I disconnect an external display then even the application opened via X11 menu are not working anymore. I have to close X11 and reopen it.

Try installing the XQuartz package on MacOS Forge. I personally have had problems with Macports XQuartz and Yosemite, however the standard installer works perfectly for me. Or maybe try using the xorg-server package from Macports.

for MAC  on v 2.7.11
https://www.xquartz.org/releases/XQuartz-2.7.10_rc5.html

sudo mv /opt/X11/lib/libXt.6.dylib{,.bak}
sudo cp /opt/X11/lib{/flat_namespace,}/libXt.6.dylib


How do I unbind a Mac from the AD using the command line? Currently I am using the below command line to bind any Mac to my AD, and so far has been work perfectly.

dsconfigad -a hostname -u DomainAdminsUserName -p Password --ou "CN=Computers,DC=hello,DC=com" -domain hello.com -mobile enable -mobileconfirm enable -localhome enable -useuncpath enable -groups "Domain Admins,Enterprise Admins" -alldomains enable

reboot

Question, how do I unbind a Mac from AD to reverse the above configuration using the command line?

dsconfigad -remove -u DomainAdminsUserName -p Password

If that doesn't work, you may need to add -force.

Works like a charm from the command line and Jamf

dsconfigad -remove -u DomainAdminsUserName -p Password


Is there a Safari shortcut that always works to reopen last-closed tab? Note: this is not a duplicate of How can I get Safari to reopen my last closed tab?

I am familiar with the shortcut ⌘+Z working when the tab was just closed. However, I often do something else that I don't want to undo.

For instance, I sometimes close a tab, write half and answer on Stack Exchange, realize I didn't want to close it, and am then stuck with accessing the history manually.

So, is there any Safari shortcut or menu item specifically for reopening my last closed tab?

Update: This isn't a fix, but if your only problem is not wanting to undo anything besides closed tabs (and you don't care about having something that'll always work), setting a shortcut for "Undo Close Tab" in Keyboard preferences will filter the shortcut to closed tabs only!

The answer is no, Safari does not provide any built-in functionality or shortcut (to the non-existing functionality) to restore the last closed tab.

The only functionality that Safari currently offers is:

Reopen last closed window
Undo Close Tab (as part of the Undo event chain)

The first does just that, re-opens the last closed window, including all the tabs that were open when it closed.

The second works as you already know, it only works if it's the last thing you did, or you have to undo other things which is the caveat you noted above.

Looking at Safari Extensions, there are a few Tab managers around, however none of them specifically note their support for Tab Undo's except SafariTabs and this functionality was removed from the product for Safari 5; as the developer notes that Safari 5 now provides this as part of the Undo chain

Developing a solution for this while it's not trivial, isn't something that is going to be impossible as Apple have done most of the hard work. :D

Safari provides event propagation to Safari Extensions, and the particular one you would be interested in is CloseEvent (SafariEvent).  Of course determining a method of distinguishing between the CloseEvent's for Windows (with each Tab receiving its own CloseEvent) and singular Tab CloseEvents... well there's the hard work.

It's ⌘-z.

It will only open the last closed tab. If you close more tabs, those tabs will not be opened.


How to use Accessibility Shortcuts for enabling Display Color Filters? As part of my evening routine, I have enabled Dark Mode and Night Shift to turn on in the evening. In addition, I like to turn on the grayscale/greyscale color filter option in System Preferences > Accessibility > Display > Color Filters > Enable Color Filters as shown in the screenshot below (1).

Now, instead of drilling down into the appropriate submenu to turn the color filter on | off, is there a way to add this option to the Accessibility Shortcuts list from the drop-down menu bar button as shown in the screenshot (2)?
--
Just to be thorough in my question, I want to show that the existing shortcuts do not include Color Filters as shown below. I do not see an option to add additional/new shortcuts.

A workaround is to use an AppleScript saved as an application. Double-clicking it (saved on the desktop, for example) allows for making the changes quite easily.
See https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/413540/248480.
Still, this doesn't answer the original question so I would look forward to other responses.

On macOS Big Sur., you can enable that option here…


Macbook Pro strange display issues Last week my Macbook Pro from 2012 suddenly had a display issue. I was working on something using my external monitor (through thunderbolt -> displayPort) when the screen showed some banding and the computer suddenly turned itself off..

Here is a description of what it is currently doing when I turn it back on:

shows the normal apple start screen with progress bar
progress bar slowly moves across and then I get some strange banding in the top (see screenshot)
eventually the progress bar gets stuck about 75-80% of the way and the screen goes to just gray
and then it switches to being black

Now the screen stays lit up but I don't have a cursor or any way to control it.

I have tried to connect it to various monitors in this state (display port, DVI, etc) all through the thunderbolt display but nothing registers...

Here is a list of what I have tried so far:

resetting PRAM - keyboard combo works, PRAM resets as it boots again
but no change
resetting SMC - keyboard combo works, computer resets
but no change
target disk mode - this works, i have it in target disk
mode now and am backing up files onto my macbook air. I also read a
post about deleting the com.apple.loginWindow.plist preferences which
I did but no change

Oddly I found that a lot of 'normal' startup key combinations are not working anymore, even though this used to when i had other issues on this.

Does not work:

holding down SHIFT to go into safe mode: does not work / no
difference in startup
holding down D for diagnostics or V for verbose: does not work
holding down Control-R for recovery mode: does
not work

I am making an appointment to at the apple store today after I finish the backup but I am wondering if anybody has any advice. Isn't it odd that these startup options don't work? Also the display lights up and displays the thunderbolt icon fine when it is in target disk mode so that seems like the display is working...

Thank you!
- J

I suspect a video card issue (that band of "static" on the top pic usually means it's the video subsystem) though it could be cabling or the display itself.

You are on the right track though. A Genius Bar appointment will diagnose the issue.

Yes, turns out my MacBookPro was still covered so Apple fixed it for me without charge. Amazing!


If I remove GarageBand and iMovie from my MacBook Air, can I restore them later? I have just bought a new MacBook Air 13" (2013).

It comes pre-installed with GarageBand and iMovie. I don't really need these applications and I want to save my disk space, so I was thinking about removing them.

However, if I do remove them, is it possible to restore them if I want them later?

You should be able to download them with your Apple ID (the one used when you bought or registered your new Mac) from the Mac App Store.
You can try to log in, and then see if you have access to them (you should also have access to the OS X, so you can re-install it too), otherwise you should contact Apple, so you get access to the free apps - and OS X Mountain Lion.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4718

Restoring iLife applications after Internet Restore of OS X Lion or OS X Mountain Lion
If you erase install OS X Lion or OS X Mountain Lion on a new Mac that shipped with OS X Lion or OS X Mountain Lion installed, you can download iPhoto, iMovie, and GarageBand from the Mac App Store.

After installation, start (up) from OS X.
Double-click the App Store icon in the dock.
Enter your Apple ID and password.
Click Purchases.
If you haven't previously accepted your bundled iLife applications within the Mac App Store, you should see your iLife applications appear in the Accept portion of the screen. Click Accept.
You may be asked for your Apple ID and password once again. Your iLife applications now move to the Purchased section. These applications are part of the software that came with your Lion based computer. Your account will not be charged for them. Click Install to complete installation of your applications.

You can delete any time you want, iMovie will be in App Store as a download in a 2GB file.


Clone APFS Time Machine volume to 2nd hard drive (Big Sur) I run Time Machine on an APFS formatted SSD and wondered, if it is possible to make something like a backup of my backup.
In practice I would like to copy / clone / get an image of my Time Machine SSD to a 2nd external hard drive from time to time, so that I would be able to restore my backup history to another SSD if anything happens to the Time Machine SSD (corrupt backup, ransomware etc.). Is this somehow possible with disk utility or a 3rd party software?

I'm running 11.2.2 with a Time Machine partition on an external SSD. When I try to use the Time Machine partition as a source in Carbon Copy Cloner (v5.125), this is what I get:
"Copying to or from a Time Machine backup volume is not supported."
In the past, I've used Carbon Copy Cloner to successfully clone Time Machine backups (which is what I believe you want), but the combination of Big Sur and APFS have made that seemingly impossible, for now.

It is possible and highly recommended. SuperDuper, as suggested in the comment to your question, will work, and also Carbon Copy Cloner, which I use.


Can Lion support resolutions higher than 1920 by 1200 on the retina MBP main display? The new retina display MacBook Pro is advertised to have a native display resolution of 2880 by 1800. On the Lion 10.7.4 build, the system preferences limits the highhest resolution at 1920 by 1200.

Can this be raised easily in Lion? (and are there any undesirable side effects to changing this?)

On new hardware, this is displayed differently than the traditional Display preferences pane. So yes, but you won't see the traditional n x n resolution listed. Here's what it will look like on a retina-enabled MacBook Pro:

As you know, the new Mac OS X Mountain Lion is coming and it will release before Retina MBP. That mean every Retina MBP will run Mountain Lion. You won't get Retina MBP running Lion. It's like you cannot get a "The new iPad" (iPad 3) running iOS 5.0.1.


Contact names missing on calls and messages My contacts are on my phone and I can choose them from the contact icon. I can not choose them to make a phone call or send a message. Incoming phone calls and messages do not display the contact name, I have tuned off contacts in iCloud and then back on but it did not fix the problem.

I did something in Facebook that was sending out friend requests to everybody. On trying to stop that I lost my contacts being attached to my phone calls and messages

Maybe you had Facebook contacts on and turned it off when trying to solve the other issue.

Check on Settings > Facebook to see if contacts are on.

In order to be able to call and that incoming calls are identified your contacts need to have the phone listed. It also may need to be written in a specific format (+country code (area code) number, for instance).

I was facing same problem (no caller id) and solved it this way:

Settings app
General
Reset
Reset network settings
If asked, enter the phone password
Reset network settings

That's what fixed my problem.


iPhone 6 water damage dark screen issue So yesterday I dropped my iPhone into the toilet, it was literally submerged for less than 15 seconds and after taking it out I left it in my airing cupboard overnight to dry. Today the phone seems to be completely functional other than a very dark screen (changing brightness won't help).

Was wondering what the best course of action would be and if this is fixable.

If you had been able to turn it off right away, and put it in a bag of rice, I have seen that work for some people, at least for a limited time. There are claims out there of various methods.

But if the screen is bad, at minimum you have to replace that, that's virtually certain. You don't say what model it is, so not sure whether that's possible or how much it might cost.

Try the rice thing for a few days, you have nothing to lose at this point. When I used to take calls for Applecare I had several customers tell me this worked, the idea being the rice would suck the water out. I don't believe it's really a great idea but it can't hurt at this point.

Having said that, your phone is pretty much toast, per the other answer. When I was lent out to the Apple store, we saw Macbooks and phones come in where the customer said they had "dried it out" but "it wasn't working" a few weeks later.

Invariably we'd open the thing up and see some residual water in there.

Sorry to say, you are probably on the road to a new phone. :( Now if you try a third-party place to repair it, at least the last time I worked for Apple about a year ago, if you put third-party parts in there Apple will never touch it to do a repair. Unlike Macs where you don't "void the warranty," any third party parts in an iOS device precludes Apple from doing any repairs in the future.

So balance out free (rice) vs. third-party screen (cheaper) vs. shiny new iPhone 6S!!

To clarify a statement above, with Mac products, if you add a third-party hard drive, for example, or memory, PROPERLY, without damaging anything in the process, you can still take your Mac to an Apple store for service and warranty.

Again this was a year ago, the last time I dealt with it, but if an Apple Specialist or Genius opens up an iOS product and sees a third-party screen or battery, etc, they immediately stop working on it, in most all cases. You'd be amazed how fine an eye these Geniuses have for sniffing out third-party screens -- so I'd only go third-party (non-Apple) parts on something that's out of warranty.

Go to ifixit.com and check their tutorials on how to replace iPhone screens.
One good thing to do when electronic gets wet is to dry it straight away with a hairdryer, turning it off immediately prior to the drying is a good advice too.


Are iPhone replacements for software issues free? iPhone 6 is not under warranty (no Apple Care+ either), but Apple Support on the phone offered a replacement phone that I pick up at the store (no mention of cost, did not ask) because of an issue with the phone that I did not cause (no physical damage). So, will this be a complimentary iPhone replacement or will it cost money like a screen repair?

Edit: It was, in the end, replaced free of charge.

It might be free. I had an iPhone 6 replaced for free just last month. The iPhone was 6 months out of warranty, no AppleCare, but was having battery problems. Apple determined the battery was defective and replaced it for free.

Apple Store will diagnose hardware/software and replace iOS software at no charge.


How to use SoundFonts in GarageBand 10.2? There are many tutorials that show how to use SoundFonts on GarageBand. (Source)

However, when I do step 5 on this page, no dropdown menu appears (and nothing happens).

How can I install SoundFonts to GarageBand 10.2?

Ah yes, this is something Apple's been sent feedback about in terms of their user interface design for GarageBand 10. It's actually a quick fix that will hopefully get addressed in an upcoming update (changing the default setting on installation will probably do the trick for most people).

Using SoundFont (SF2) files in GarageBand v10

To get your SoundFont files to work in GarageBand 10, follow these steps:

Launch GarageBand and open your project
Go to GarageBand > Preferences
Select the Audio/MIDI tab
Within the Effects section, tick the Enable Audio Units checkbox
Exit Preferences
If it's not already, open the Smart Controls window
Now click on the Plug-ins drop down menu and select Instrument > AU Instruments > Apple > DLSMusicDevice > Stereo (see screenshot below):

A DSLMusicDevice window will open (this may take a little while)
Now click on the Sound Bank drop-down menu to select your SF2 file (see image below):

Once you've selected your file, close the DSLMusicDevice window
Now press commandK to open the Musical Typing keyboard (or you can just go to Window > Show Musical Typing).

Now you can play the sounds from the SoundFont (SF2) file you selected.

Installing SoundFont files on macOS

The steps above show how to use SoundFont files within GarageBand 10. However, if you want to download/install additional SoundFont files in macOS to make them available to GarageBand and other apps, follow these steps:

Download  the SoundFont files you want
Within the Finder, press and hold the option key
Keep the option key down and click on Go > Library
This will open your user's Library folder (you can let go of the option key now)
Within the Library folder navigate to Audio > Sounds > Banks
Press shiftcommandN to create a new folder
Move your SoundFont (SF2) files into this folder

Now your SoundFont files will be available to any apps that support them.

First you create a software instrument
Open the smart controls window for that instrument
Open the plug-in menu, select the instrument then select AUSampler
Find the button with the gears next to the output text and press "Import Instrument from DLS File"
Select your soundfont

now it uses the soundfont good luck i hoped this worked for you


Annoying prompt keeps popping up: 'The "cc" command requires the command line developer tools.' After 4 years of use, I decided to reset my Mac, cleaning up years of garbage in some folders. Surprisingly I was able to recover 20 GB of free space (which is a lot on a 128 GB SSD).

My workflow is quite simple, and I don't have a lot o apps installed. Besides the built-in and 1st party apps, I have, from the App Store: BBEdit and WhatsApp; and from other sources: Matlab, Skype, TeXShop, MacTeX, and OpenVPN.

I am not a developer, so I never installed Xcode, nor the Command Line Developer Tools (CLDT). So why would my two days old fresh installation keeps bugging me to install either the full Xcode or CLDT, when I'm sure I'm not running CC (or any other compilator, for that matter).

I doubt that among my handful of apps, one may be the culprit. But does any one know of any similar behavior.

P.S.: Just to make this point clear. I've made a clear from scratch installation. The only thing carried over was my iCloud content. No recovering from backups of any kind.

It may be BBEdit or something related to TeX.

It's a longshot, but if you run Console, you may get a clue by searching for whether anything is throwing an error regarding the "Command Line."

create a dummy cc program.  have it crash.  read the call stack to find out who called cc. Not sure when you get a crash log.

mac $ nano cc
mac $ cat cc
#! /bin/bash
# the idea here is to crash the app so as to look at the call stack to see who called this
# bash script
nogo=0
x=$(( $RANDOM % $nogo ))
mac $ chmod 744 cc
mac $ ls -l cc
-rwxr--r--  1 mac  staff   150B Apr 26 21:18 cc*
# You will need to place cc in where ever it normally resides.
# I found cc here:
# /Applications/Xcode.app/Contents/Developer/Toolchains/XcodeDefault.xctoolchain/usr/bin/cc
mac $ ls -l /Applications/Xcode.app/Contents/Developer/Toolchains/XcodeDefault.xctoolchain/usr/bin/cc
lrwxr-xr-x  1 root  wheel     5B Jan 28  2016 /Applications/Xcode.app/Contents/Developer/Toolchains/XcodeDefault.xctoolchain/usr/bin/cc@ -> clang
mac $ ./cc
./cc: line 5: 27778 % 0 : division by 0 (error token is " ")
mac RC=1   $

another idea is to make cc run forever. add

sleep 30

for 30 seconds of sleeping.  from another terminal do a top and see who called cc. you could force quit cc and take a dump.


How do I uninstall Tuxera NTFS? I wanted to remove the NTFS support I installed using Tuxera NTFS. When I checked out my preference pane, the option seems to have been greyed out. How do I uninstall it now?

I tried disabling it but still the "Uninstall Tuxera NTFS" was only greyed out.

Running - macOS 10.12

The uninstall button runs the following script, located at

/Library/Filesystems/fusefs_txantfs.fs/Contents/Resources/Support/uninstall-package.sh

#!/bin/bash

if [ "$0" != "/bin/uninstall-for-real" ]; then
    echo "Reexecuting script from memory."
    /bin/bash -c "`cat \"$0\"`" "/bin/uninstall-for-real" "$@"; exit $?
else
    echo "In-memory execution active."
fi

DRIVERNAME="Tuxera NTFS"
PACKAGENAME="TuxeraNTFS"
PACKAGENAME_COMPAT="TuxeraNTFS_compat"
PACKAGEID="com.tuxera.pkg.Tuxera_NTFS"
PACKAGEID_COMPAT="com.tuxera.pkg.Tuxera_NTFS_compat"
FSBUNDLENAME="fusefs_txantfs"
FSBUNDLEDIR="/Library/Filesystems/${FSBUNDLENAME}.fs"
COMPAT_FSBUNDLEDIR="/System/Library/Filesystems/${FSBUNDLENAME}.fs"
PREFPANEDIR="/Library/PreferencePanes/${DRIVERNAME}.prefPane"
STARTUPITEMDIR="/Library/StartupItems/${PACKAGENAME}UnmountHelper"
DISK_MANAGER_DIR="/Applications/Tuxera Disk Manager.app"
OLD_STYLE_RECEIPT_BUNDLE_PATH="/Library/Receipts/${PACKAGENAME}.pkg"
OLD_STYLE_RECEIPT_PATH="${OLD_STYLE_RECEIPT_BUNDLE_PATH}/Contents/Archive.bom"
OLD_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_BUNDLE_PATH="/Library/Receipts/${PACKAGENAME_COMPAT}.pkg"
OLD_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH="${OLD_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_BUNDLE_PATH}/Contents/Archive.bom"
NEW_STYLE_RECEIPT_PATH="/var/db/receipts/${PACKAGEID}.bom"
NEW_STYLE_RECEIPT_PLIST_PATH="/var/db/receipts/${PACKAGEID}.plist"
NEW_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH="/var/db/receipts/${PACKAGEID_COMPAT}.bom"
NEW_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PLIST_PATH="/var/db/receipts/${PACKAGEID_COMPAT}.plist"
APPLICATION_SUPPORT_DIR_PATH="/Library/Application Support/Tuxera NTFS"
BACKUP_RECEIPT_PATH="${APPLICATION_SUPPORT_DIR_PATH}/Receipt.bom"
BACKUP_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH="${APPLICATION_SUPPORT_DIR_PATH}/Receipt_compat.bom"

error() {
    echo "There were errors... aborting."
    exit 1
}

checkForErrors() {
    _ERRVAL=$1
    if [ ! "${_ERRVAL}" -eq 0 ]; then error; fi
}

EFFECTIVE_UID=${EUID} #`id -u`
if [ ${EFFECTIVE_UID} -ne 0 ]; then
    echo "ERROR: Not running as root! (UID: ${UID} EUID: ${EUID})"
    exit 100
fi

if [ -f "${NEW_STYLE_RECEIPT_PATH}" ]; then
    RECEIPT="${NEW_STYLE_RECEIPT_PATH}"
elif [ -f "${OLD_STYLE_RECEIPT_PATH}" ]; then
    RECEIPT="${OLD_STYLE_RECEIPT_PATH}"
elif [ -f "${BACKUP_RECEIPT_PATH}" ]; then
    RECEIPT="${BACKUP_RECEIPT_PATH}"
else
    echo "None of the possible receipt paths were found... aborting."
    exit 101
fi

if [ -f "${NEW_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH}" ]; then
    COMPAT_RECEIPT="${NEW_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH}"
elif [ -f "${OLD_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH}" ]; then
    COMPAT_RECEIPT="${OLD_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH}"
elif [ -f "${BACKUP_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH}" ]; then
    COMPAT_RECEIPT="${BACKUP_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH}"
else
    COMPAT_RECEIPT=""
fi

# Store the list of files to delete in memory (so that we don't depend on
# reading from files that we may delete during the process).
FILES_TO_DELETE="$(sh -c "lsbom -fls \"${RECEIPT}\" | colrm 1 1 | sed \"s/^/\\\"/\" | sed \"s/$/\\\"/\"")"

if [ ! -z "${COMPAT_RECEIPT}" ]; then
    FILES_TO_DELETE="${FILES_TO_DELETE} $(sh -c "lsbom -fls \"${COMPAT_RECEIPT}\" | colrm 1 1 | sed \"s/^/\\\"/\" | sed \"s/$/\\\"/\"")"
fi

# Remove all uchg attributes from installed files. If present, this attribute
# will cause deletion of installed files to fail.
# (No need to check exit value from chflags since we want to attempt deletion
# anyway if chflags fails.)

chflags -R nouchg "${FSBUNDLEDIR}"
if [ -d "${COMPAT_FSBUNDLEDIR}" ]; then
    chflags -R nouchg "${COMPAT_FSBUNDLEDIR}"
fi
chflags -R nouchg "${PREFPANEDIR}"
chflags -R nouchg "${STARTUPITEMDIR}"
chflags -R nouchg "${DISK_MANAGER_DIR}"
sh -c "echo '${FILES_TO_DELETE}' | xargs chflags -R nouchg"
if [ -d "${OLD_STYLE_RECEIPT_BUNDLE_PATH}" ]; then
    chflags -R nouchg "${OLD_STYLE_RECEIPT_BUNDLE_PATH}"
fi
if [ -d "${OLD_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_BUNDLE_PATH}" ]; then
    chflags -R nouchg "${OLD_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_BUNDLE_PATH}"
fi
if [ -f "${NEW_STYLE_RECEIPT_PATH}" ]; then
    chflags nouchg "${NEW_STYLE_RECEIPT_PATH}"
fi
if [ -f "${NEW_STYLE_RECEIPT_PLIST_PATH}" ]; then
    chflags nouchg "${NEW_STYLE_RECEIPT_PLIST_PATH}"
fi
if [ -f "${NEW_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH}" ]; then
    chflags nouchg "${NEW_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH}"
fi
if [ -f "${NEW_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PLIST_PATH}" ]; then
    chflags nouchg "${NEW_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PLIST_PATH}"
fi
if [ -d "${APPLICATION_SUPPORT_DIR_PATH}" ]; then
    # Backup receipt resides in this directory, so we must do this in the right
    # order.
    chflags nouchg "${APPLICATION_SUPPORT_DIR_PATH}"
fi
if [ -f "${BACKUP_RECEIPT_PATH}" ]; then
    chflags nouchg "${BACKUP_RECEIPT_PATH}"
fi
if [ -f "${BACKUP_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH}" ]; then
    chflags nouchg "${BACKUP_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH}"
fi

# Remove installed files.

echo "Removing package files..."

sh -c "echo '${FILES_TO_DELETE}' | xargs rm -fv"
checkForErrors $?

if [ -d "${FSBUNDLEDIR}" ]; then
    echo "Removing file system bundle directory..."

    rm -rfv "${FSBUNDLEDIR}"
    checkForErrors $?
fi

if [ -d "${COMPAT_FSBUNDLEDIR}" ]; then
    echo "Removing compatibility file system bundle directory..."

    rm -rfv "${COMPAT_FSBUNDLEDIR}"
    checkForErrors $?
fi

if [ -d "${PREFPANEDIR}" ]; then
    echo "Removing ${DRIVERNAME} preference pane directory..."

    rm -rfv "${PREFPANEDIR}"
    checkForErrors $?
fi

if [ -d "${STARTUPITEMDIR}" ]; then
    echo "Removing ${DRIVERNAME} startup item directory..."

    rm -rfv "${STARTUPITEMDIR}"
    checkForErrors $?
fi

if [ -d "${DISK_MANAGER_DIR}" ]; then
    echo "Removing ${DRIVERNAME} Tuxera Disk Manager directory..."

    rm -rfv "${DISK_MANAGER_DIR}"
    checkForErrors $?
fi

# Remove all package receipt files.

if [ -d "${OLD_STYLE_RECEIPT_BUNDLE_PATH}" ]; then
    echo "Removing package receipt..."

    rm -rfv "${OLD_STYLE_RECEIPT_BUNDLE_PATH}"
    checkForErrors $?
fi

if [ -d "${OLD_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_BUNDLE_PATH}" ]; then
    echo "Removing compatibility package receipt..."

    rm -rfv "${OLD_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_BUNDLE_PATH}"
    checkForErrors $?
fi

if [ -f "${NEW_STYLE_RECEIPT_PATH}" ]; then
    echo "Removing package receipt bom file..."

    rm -fv "${NEW_STYLE_RECEIPT_PATH}"
    checkForErrors $?
fi

if [ -f "${NEW_STYLE_RECEIPT_PLIST_PATH}" ]; then
    echo "Removing package receipt plist file..."

    rm -fv "${NEW_STYLE_RECEIPT_PLIST_PATH}"
    checkForErrors $?
fi

if [ -f "${NEW_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH}" ]; then
    echo "Removing compatibility package receipt bom file..."

    rm -fv "${NEW_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH}"
    checkForErrors $?
fi

if [ -f "${NEW_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PLIST_PATH}" ]; then
    echo "Removing compatibility package receipt plist file..."

    rm -fv "${NEW_STYLE_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PLIST_PATH}"
    checkForErrors $?
fi

if [ -f "${BACKUP_RECEIPT_PATH}" ]; then
    echo "Removing backup receipt bom file..."

    rm -fv "${BACKUP_RECEIPT_PATH}"
    checkForErrors $?
fi

if [ -f "${BACKUP_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH}" ]; then
    echo "Removing backup compatibility receipt bom file..."

    rm -fv "${BACKUP_COMPAT_RECEIPT_PATH}"
    checkForErrors $?
fi

if [ -d "${APPLICATION_SUPPORT_DIR_PATH}" ]; then
    echo "Attempting to remove support dir..."

    rmdir "${APPLICATION_SUPPORT_DIR_PATH}"
    # This will fail if there are other files in there, but that's ok.
fi

echo "Done."
exit 0

Incorrect path in some versions, so you can modify as this:

sudo /Library/Filesystems/tuxera_ntfs.fs/Contents/Resources/Support/uninstall-package.sh


Is there an AirDrop client for Microsoft Windows? It would be nice to have an AirDrop client for Microsoft Windows. Does anyone know if such a program exists as a shipping product or an open source work-in-progress?

I'm aware that there are many other file sync options, but I'm looking for something that works with Apple's implementation from the Windows OS.

No, I don't believe you can. Apple advertise AirDrop as: "AirDrop, a remarkably simple way to copy files wirelessly from one Mac to another with no setup;"
.
Key part of that sentence being "from one Mac to another" - Second bullet point: http://www.apple.com/uk/pr/library/2011/02/24Apple-Releases-Developer-Preview-of-Mac-OS-X-Lion.html. It's highly unlikely Apple would open this feature up to Windows or Linux because it's a selling point for them in new Macs running Lion.

I have a Mac and AirDrop is pretty good, but Windows laptops and PCs can just use peer-to-peer Bluetooth instead.


How can I reliably backup an external drive to another external drive? I have got an external hard drive (A) that contains my iTunes & Aperture libraries. It's not always plugged to my MacBook.

What's the best way to make a backup of it on another external hard drive (B) ?

Wanted features :

fully automated (that executes itself hourly, or something like that)
incremental (in order to be fast)
only activates when both disks (A & B) are plugged in
works with multiple backup disks (in order to have a backup at home and another at work)
discrete indication that a backup is in progress
ability to pause or stop backup (useful if I am in a hurry and have to disconnect external drives)

It would be nice if backup disks could be networked, but that's not mandatory.

I would have loved to use Time Machine in order to have an history, but it doesn't seem to work well with external hard drives that aren't always connected and I don't trust it for that use case (my internal SSD is backed up thanks to Time Machine, though).

Online backups aren't adequate because I have a very poor internet connection.

Another possible option: use rsync and a launchd job to execute it when the disk is mounted. I believe Time Machine uses a similar approach to running on disk mount. For the hourly execution, you can use cron. The discreet notification can be done in a number of ways (for instance sending a mail or the Growl extension which allows notifications to be sent from the command line). killall rsync should stop the backup safely if you need to pack up and go. Also rsync is also entirely capable of networked syncing.

It will take a bit of work to set up, but the advantages are:

it's versatile (see man rsync, they pretty much thought of everything)
it's discreet
it doesn't cost anything
rsync is quick

You may find this helpful for launchd jobs involving disk mounting.

Edit: I should add that the --partial option to rsync will mean that the backup is resumed after killall rsync.

Edit 2: You can use a Control Plane context instead of launchd if you prefer.

I tried using External Hard Drives but i'm not satisfied coz it can be stolen or lost so I decided to back up my files using Cloud. Now i'm happy with it.

You will also love this post. Have fun in reading!

http://www.process.st/2014/08/how-to-backup-your-external-hard-drives-with-google-drive/


Can I use the Mac OS X Install DVD that came with my Mac Mini on my Macbook? I just bought a new hard drive for my Macbook and want to install a fresh OS X 10.6. I looked through all the CDs that I have and I could only find the Mac OS X Install DVD that came with a new Mac Mini I bought a couple of months ago.

Can I use that disc to install Mac OS X 10.6 for my Macbook?

Normally I would think it'd be no problem, but the install disk prominently says "Mac mini" on it. I'm wondering if the OS is specially tailored for Mac Mini's and won't have the drivers necessary for Macbooks.

The rest of the disc says:

Mac Mini
Mac OS X Install DVD
Mac OS version 10.6.4
Disc version 1.0

Any thoughts?

The installation disk coming with a computer is for that computer model only, and I would not expect this to work.

If your MacBook runs 10.5 you are eligible for the 10.6 upgrade for $29.  I can highly recommend it, if nothing else, for the fixes in Time Machine.

There is only one version of Mac OS X (as opposed to Windows which is riddled with countless variations). Even if the ignite disc that you have doesn't work, buying a copy of 10.6 is cheaper than a week's worth of Starbucks: MacSales.com/SnowLeopard - $27.99 + tax & ship.


Is it generally advisable to get anti-virus software for Mac OS X? Is it worth to buy an anti-virus software for Mac OS X?

I heard both opinions like "it's not possible to get a virus on Mac OS X" and "Mac OS X is also vulnerable against virus... "

Which is true? What is the accepted practice, if any? Under what circumstances would anti-virus be advisable?

There is anti-virus software available for Mac OS X:

Intego VirusBarrier
ClamXAV (Free)
Norton AnitVirus Mac Edition
McAfee VirusScan for Mac
Sophos Anti-Virus for Mac (Consumer Version is free)

Is it worth it? That's largely up to you. Personally I'd say unless required there's no reason to so long as you practice "safe computing" (eg. not opening files from just anywhere, being aware of what is installed on your computer, etc.). However there are some companies that require any computer (regardless of OS) to have up to date anti-virus software installed and operational.

There are no viruses available for Mac OS X but there are several pieces of malware and trojan horses that a user must manually download and install. The anti-virus products (and actually a feature in Mac OS X Snow Leopard) will help fight against these threats but the primary defence is actually user education as the attack vector is primarily social engineering and not using any security hole.

Do you need an Antivirus Software on OS X?

  Yes, yes you do need some sort of antivirus app for your Mac OS X and my reason for saying that is simple. Viruses exist for every known Operating System. It is true that Apple’s Operating system for Macs is safer and more naturally protected against Viruses but the REAL truth is that Mac systems are not as popular as the Windows OS so those that make viruses don’t see a need to program viruses for Macs when most desktop users in the world still operate on a Windows OS. So my point is, it is better to get a good Antivirus for your Mac computer now because sooner or later, as OS X becomes more user friendly, more and more viruses will appear...

That's how I look at it too, you can never be too safe.


Have Apple announced whether the "Shellshock" bash update will be applied automatically via the App Store patching mechanism? As described here, I'm technically vulnerable to the "Shellshock" bug in my shell. I'm running Mavericks.

Apple has released an update to bash that addresses this issue. As per the example test script in the linked question, I'm currently still vulnerable and have no available updates showing up in the App Store.

Has Apple made any announcement, or have any public policy on whether this update will eventually be made available for software update via the App Store?

Will this update (eventually) be applied automatically via the App
  Store, or do I have to apply it manually?

As I explain in my answer on the question you link to, Apple has released patches you can download & run yourself. You do not have too compile from source or be deeply technically capable to run them.  Just download the one appropriate for your machine, run the installer & that’s it:

OS X bash Update 1.0 – OS X Mavericks
OS X bash Update 1.0 – OS X Mountain Lion
OS X bash Update 1.0 - OS X Lion

And while not directly available via the software update system provided in the App Store, running this patch is one of the simplest Mac OS X patches I have ever run. It takes about a minute of your time, an admin password & there is no need to reboot.

UPDATE: Look, I just saw a pig fly!

  Note: Security Update 2014-005 includes the security content of OS X
  bash Update 1.0

There is currently no information on whether this update will appear via the built-in App Store update mechanism - as described by patrix in the comments on the original question:

  "Nobody knows because Apple doesn't publish any update/patch strategies, and any other possible answer will not be backed up by facts".


Stop "iPhone is not Activated" message from appearing I bought a used iPhone 5s not to use as a phone, but to use like an iPod touch. I bought a cheap, dummy SIM card to get it activated. All is well, but I keep getting theiPhone is Not Activated. Contact Your Carrier. message.

How can I get rid of this?


How to uninstall an app on iOS Of course, by holding down on an icon and tap the x lets me uninstall an app. But take a look at this:

Here, the Pandora app is somehow stuck at the "update phase". Tapping it to continue download doesn't work. The progress "circle" will get stuck. So I decided to reinstall it.

  Translation:
  Delete “”
  Deleting “” will also delete all its data.

For some reason it doesn't even show the name of the app. It's just blank.

Tapping delete does nothing. So what do I have to do to fix this problem?

Running iOS 8, not jail broken.

Derek. Not a lot of people realize that an iPhone is a computer and should be treated as such. Just like your computer you shut it down or at least restart it on a regular basis. People don't do this with iPhones, because well, it's a phone and they may 'miss a call' or it's just habit for most. It causes a lot of memory leaks especially if developers aren't skilled enough to know how to test within their apps for memory leaks. In other words, a soft restart (turning it off in the normal manner by holding the sleep button and sliding to power off and then turning it back on) will 99% of the time autonomously repair itself and reset the memory. The 1% chance it does not you can do a hard restart (holding the sleep and home button simultaneously for 4-5 sec) will fix your issue.

Idk if it’d help but there is app for PC named 3utools (you can google it) and there is ability for deleting corrupted icon from homescreen. You need to connect phone to PC and delete icon from PC. I use this app but i didn’t tested yet this feature. I didnt saw yet a solution for doing that far away from home . Anyways - might help.


Using an Android phone with a Mac's messaging App Several of my friends have their iPhones hooked up to the iMessage app on Mac.
If you're not familiar, it lets you check your phones messages as well as send messages on your Mac via your phone.

I was hoping there was a Android - Mac equivalent of this?

I have a Macbook but also love my Nexus 6P. I was looking for the same thing and I found iMessage for Android which does exactly what you are looking for.

No there is not. iMessage was designed by Apple exclusively for Mac O/S and IOS. you want iMessage you'll have to get an iPhone or Mac.


Mac goes unexpected to sleep After upgrading to MacOS Catalina (10.15.1) I have had troubles with the mac going to sleep mode when i close the lid while having external monitors connected. It used to be working like this:

What happens when the lid are closed?

When no external monitor are connected: Go to sleep.
When external monitor are connected: Display content on the external monitors.

Now it just goes into sleep mode no matter which setup is used.

Can you help getting the right configuration back?

pmset is the terminal command to display all things sleep on OSX. man pmset shows you how to use the binary, pmset -g shows you the current settings.
It is possible to restore pmset to defaults by using the following commands (whilst sleep setting defaults differ from Mac to Mac, but apparently Apple have usefully made the numerical value that refers to the various profiles relatively the same.)
sudo pmset -c 2 -b 1 -u 1; pmset -g
[Sudo will require your password]
This last command from here: Default settings for pmset -g?
Another suggestion is to reset PRAM and SMC:

How to reset PRAM
1.Shut down your computer

Press the Power key
Immediately press Command + Option + P + R keys
Hold down the keys until your Mac reboots
Let go of the keys

To reset SMC

Turn off your Mac
Hold down Control + Shift + Option and press power
Hold the buttons for 10-15 sec
Release the keys and restart your Mac


What is an alternative to a BAT file on Mac? What is the alternate for BAT file (Windows) on Mac? Does different version of OS X have different format of BAT files? I am trying to create a BAT file on Mac which normally changes directory while the file is open.

Being pretty unfamiliar with batch files, I'm not sure of the functionality available, but there are two main scripting methods on OS X which are similar:

AppleScript

AppleScript is a scripting language which lets you control OS X and many applications.

AppleScripts are generally easy to understand and write whilst providing a lot of advanced functionality. Here is an AppleScript which counts the files in the Applications folder:

tell application "Finder"
    if folder "Applications" of startup disk exists then
        return count files in folder "Applications" of startup disk
    else
        return 0
    end if
end tell

For more information about AppleScript, see:

https://developer.apple.com/library/mac/documentation/applescript/Conceptual/AppleScriptX/AppleScriptX.html

Shell script

A shell script is a script for a Unix shell.

The equivalent shell script to the above AppleScript is the following:

if [ -d "/Applications/" ]; then
    ls -1 "/Applications/" | wc -l
fi

As you're probably going to use bash, this is a good guide to get you started:

http://www.tldp.org/LDP/abs/html/


Where are the popcorn time temporary files stored on OS X Mavericks? I want to find the location of temporary files created by popcorn time so that I can stream via the chromecast player to my TV. I can find that on Windows but don't know where  is it located on Mac.

I found the answer here.

Open Terminal.app and enter the following command:

open $TMPDIR/Popcorn-Time

This will open the Popcorn-Time storage directory, and from there you can copy the file away to where you want it.

Edit:

Now

open $TMPDIR/Butter

Edit:

Changed again,

open $TMPDIR/Popcorn\ Time

Start a Terminal and use

find / -name filename.abc

find is a unix command with a large set of options but basically it is find [path...] [expression]. If you search the whole filesystem / you will get permission errors, use

sudo find / -name filename.abc

to avoid this. Here is its manpage.


Macbook sees Japanese keyboard instead of native US English Mavericks on Macbook Pro Retina A1398 (US keyboard with horizontal Enter) shows Japanese keyboard (JIS, with vertical Enter) on enabled keyboard viewer. How do I make Mavericks to recognize and to show its native US Keyboard layout?
I have tried to reset SMC and PRAM with no success.
p.s. I have tried changing input sources to U.S. as well - does not change the orientation of return on bluish keyboard on the right - mac OS still thinks I have JIS...

It sounds like your machine is not recognizing the "keyboard type" correctly, thinking you have a JIS (or ISO) type instead of ANSI.   See this article for some suggestions on fixing it:

http://m10lmac.blogspot.com/2009/12/fixing-keyboard-type-problems.html

Go to System Preferences > Keyboard > Input Sources tab and click the "+" key to add the US Keyboard:


Will iMessage be re-delivered when the recipient attains wifi access? I went into Settings > Messages > Learn More and it says that iMessage only works in Wifi mode. I am on Wifi and I have been trying to send iMessages to another person. Each time I send it "delivered" appears under the message. The other person calls me saying that she has not been receiving my iMessages. However, when I turn off iMessage in Settings > Messages, she starts responding to me, implying that regular SMS messages work. I am wondering whether the iMessages that I've sent have disappeared forever or will she start downloading the undelivered iMessages them when she attains wifi access?

My guess is that you both need to be on wifi, or you need to restart BOTH of your devices.


App to stream photos from my Network share to SmartTV via iPhone I have photos on my network drive. I want to stream them to a SmartTV;  something like:

On my iPhone
Open network share
Find folder with pics
Stream to DLNA/SmartTV

The only app I've found so far is iMediaShare. However, it is an old app - and have an issue with the slideshow: you need to manually list all files in the folder,  then start the slideshow (otherwise it will stream only first batch of files).

All other streaming apps do support streaming of my local iPhone Camera Roll, which is fine, but I don't need it.

Why do I need it?

The software in my TV and media player works slow, and are less responsive. It takes time to navigate to next photo.  It takes time to load stuff. I need to sit in the front of TV and see what is going on. I need to handle different remote controls/apps. Moreover, some of my shares are private, and I don't want TV to access them; but still want to stream some images from it. So, at the end: it is much more convenient for me to use it like described above.

Try Filpps Tv you can get from apple store


Run AirPort Utility 5.6.1 in High Sierra I would like to install the Airport version 5.6.1 on MacBook with High Sierra.

It already has the Airport Version 6.3.8 installed.

Can I have both installed and without removing the 6.3.8 and use the 5.6.1 instead.

You can do this without modifying your system.

Use something like Pacifier to extract the AirPort Utility.app and Apple80211.framework from the installer.

Then, run these two commands in Terminal whenever you want to use it (substituting the correct paths obviously):

$ export DYLD_INSERT_LIBRARIES=<path-to-older-Apple80211.framework/Versions/A/Apple80211>
$ /path-to/AirPort\ Utility\ 5.6.1.app/Contents/MacOS/AirPort\ Utility

I keep that older framework and older app in the same folder, save the following AppleScript as an app (it expects to be in the same folder too), and just double-click it to launch:

tell application "Finder"
    set base_folder to (container of (path to me) as alias)
    set base_path to POSIX path of base_folder
    set library_path to base_path & "Apple80211.framework/Versions/A/Apple80211"
    set library_exists to exists (library_path as POSIX file)
end tell

if library_exists then

    do shell script "export DYLD_INSERT_LIBRARIES=" & quoted form of library_path & "
" & quoted form of (base_path & "AirPort Utility 5.6.1.app/Contents/MacOS/AirPort Utility")

else

    display alert "Apple80211.framework could not be found" message "The library was not found in " & base_path & "."

end if

This works all the way up to Mojave.

Just start with the version offered, configure it and after that Apple recognise it and ask you to upgrade to a new version - I have installed on two devices this year, on High Sierra. The actual version is 6.3.8


Stuck on Grey Screen During Startup I updated to Yosemite on Saturday and everything has been working fine, I have been able to shut down and startup as normal until today.

A couple of days ago I forced my Early 2011 MacBook Pro to shut down and now it will no longer get to the login screen.

I hear the chime, the Apple appears with the Yosemite status bar underneath, it takes a long time to get about halfway then both the Apple and status bar disappear leaving just a blank grey screen.

I can get into Single User mode, using "fsck -fy" it reports that everything is OK.
I can't get into Safe Mode, I just get the Apple and status bar followed by grey screen
I have reset PRAM
The Internet Recovery globe and status bar appear followed by the Apple and status bar then grey screen
Holding Option I can select my disk but there is no Recovery Disk displayed. The image of my hard drive that appears has a custom icon that I haven't used for at least 5 years which is very odd indeed.
I have a bootable Yosemite USB, holding option I can select that but it just brings up the Apple and status bar then grey screen.

So basically everything other than Single User mode ends up at a blank grey screen.

I'm at a loss, any help would be greatly appreciated.

NOTE
My left fan is faulty, I have ordered a new one online. I have been using SMCFanControl to monitor it, if the computer has been feeling hot I have been increasing the RPM for a minute to cool it just to be safe until the new fan arrives. Last night I increased the RPM and SMCFanControl became unresponsive which is why I forced the computer to shut down because I couldn't reduce the fan speed back to normal.

Early 2011 MacBook Pro, OS X Yosemite (10.10)

It is already become usual when new OS update finally break defective GPUs.

You didn't state what exact model of early 2011 you have but if it is 15" or 17" it just may be it since Radeon HD in those models tend to break.

If yours MBP is indeed with Radeon GPU try to use towel method i.e. wrap it into bath towel (dry of course) after startup and let it sit and become really hot. Try to restart after it. If it working you might try this approach


Getting rid of the annoying Photoshop CS6 timeline Every time I open Photoshop, here it is, the annoying and obtuse timeline box. I hide it. I create my own workspace and save it. But every time I run Photoshop CS6 the timeline window is there. I close it, and open a file. Every time a file opens, the $&&%#$ window is back.

How do I get rid of this disgusting window?

thanks.

This was happening to me on a single file, because I'd messed around with animation a little and then deleted it.

What I had to do in the end to stop the timeline opening every time I opened that file, was to copy everything into a new PSD.

If you want to get rid of the timeline go to the top menu and click "Windows" and then "Timeline".


Mac after reboot only allows one account to logon Afternoons all,

So I have a MacBook Pro, 2018 TB with High Sierra that's bound to a Windows domain, built via JAMF.

We have one admin account on the machine which our IT team use then the user account where they themselves are also admins. I should point out I have admin rights on the machine.

Nothing special about these accounts as far as I'm aware.

However when my user logs onto the machine, to do their work and then reboots, at logon they are only prompted for the password for the IT admin account. They don't see the username and password fields.

I'm trying to go through the console logs but unsure what I'm even looking for.

I should have mentioned, I have admin rights but some features are locked down via JAMF security profiles.

Anyone else seen this issue?

FileVault is the clear case where the system will boot to a pre-OS screen and show you only the file vault enabled accounts. When you sign in and authenticate as one of these accounts, that unlocks a decryption key that allows the OS to be readable and starts the actual OS boot process.

You can determine which accounts have been enabled in FileVault by examining that system preference once you’re logged in to the running OS.

Since you managed MDM and JAMF - here is an article with great technical data on the need for a secure token to be provisioned for each FileVault enabled account:

https://derflounder.wordpress.com/2018/01/20/secure-token-and-filevault-on-apple-file-system/

Your IT team should investigate JAMF Connect which extends the typical log in screen to let any AD allowed account log in. It also can be provisioned so that membership in an AD group maps to an admin local account or a non-admin local account. It’s an amazing tool and far better than binding which can have many down sides.

https://www.jamf.com/products/jamf-connect/

I've just bound a MacBook Pro to a domain (for the first time), and have apparently had the same (painful !) issue. FireVault wasn't the culprit, because it isn't enabled by default.
The solution (inspired by this thread) was to enable "mobile accounts" in the domain binding menu:

macOS Big Sur (11.2.3), en français


iCloud has space but iCloud Backup says that I don't have enough to complete a backup I use 120 MB of iCloud storage space for iCloud Backup of my iPad & iPhone. There is still 4.8 GB free from 5 GB, but I have a notification in iPad's backup window that I'm lacking space to back up to iCloud and would rather not buy more space to back up today.

This could easily be explained as the 120 MB of used data is likely for the data all the apps store in iCloud. Contacts, calendars, specific third party apps can have storage in iCloud. You can determine this by looking at the Manage Storage pane in settings app (see below).

The warning you describe comes up when the expected size of the next backup is greater than the available free space.

You can reduce the size of the expected backup on iOS (updated for iOS 12) as follows:

open the Settings app
tap your AppleID/iCloud avatar (first item, top of list)
tap iCloud
tap Manage Storage
tap Backups
tap the name of the device in question (it usually says this iPod touch, this iPhone or this iPad to help if you have many devices connected to iCloud)
look at Next Backup Size
toggle off any unwanted apps from the list below

If that is less than the available space, you may need to contact Apple support to have your account fixed on the server side. In most cases, you can toggle off the largest few items and then attempt a backup when the estimate is less than the available space.

Once the backup is complete, you can tune the backups or manage your space as needed on iCloud.

For those who are still getting this problem with iOS 8 I tried using iCloud to backup for the first time (no data had been used). It said it couldn't as the backup would need 9.7gb. I tried just turning off the larger items but it was still at 7gb. Quite bizarre that you need to tap the off toggle AND THEN TAP DELETE IN A POPUP ALERT!!! I mean, who on earth do they have in their UI department nowadays? In my case I have about 500 (?) apps, each of which has to have the button toggled off and then the alert dismissed by tapping delete. This is quite bizarre as I had never turned all of these on AND there is no way that I could see of turning them all off to start with and then turning back on the ones I wanted. I presume that also means that for every app that I install from now on this will be set on and I will need to remember and explicitly turn it off.

I have now toggled off about a fifth of them (and it has taken an eternity!) but I am still at 5.2gb so I need to keep going. The supposed data size taken up by apps I am now down to is 1.8mb so obviously this has no relationship whatsoever to the size the iPad is intending to copy up to iCloud for the apps. I also have very slow internet so the prospect of waiting for 5gb to copy is laughable (probably months) so I'll need to go through all of them.

Time has passed and I am now maybe half way down and my finger is getting sore from tapping. This had better work!

Aahhrrgg!! The phone rang, I talked to my brother about my ailing parents, I returned and my iPad had gone to sleep. iCloud Backup had been turned off and it appears I am back to the beginning! I give up!!!! The next guy I speak to who compliments apple's developers in any way is probably going to get a good thrashing - I don't think they could program their way out of a simple do() while() loop.


How to properly install Kali Linux on MacBook Air (dual-boot with El Capitan) I updated to El Capitan yesterday (on MacBook Air 2014). I then decided to install Kali Linux 2.0, and boy it's been one problem after another, so far nothing has gone the way it's supposed to. Without going too much into details, some of which include (problems downloading rEFInd, burning the iso image onto the thumb drive and etc.). I think I managed to do that.

So now I try to reboot my Mac, after the rEFInd boot screen shows up I plug-in the usb and I get only one volume (the legacy OS one) and the guide for installing Linux says try installing rEFInd and try again, but I already have rEFInd (you need to have 3 volumes as it shows here).

If I try to boot the legacy folder it says:

  Starting the Legacy Loader
  Using Load Options USB
  Error: Not Found while loading legacy loader

  Make sure u have the latest firmware update installed
  Hit any key to continue

Any help is appreciated :) I'm really getting frustrated trying to install Kali, first time though.

P.S. There is a very high probability I've messed up somewhere before, because as I said, I've been running into almost every problem out there, googling, and trying to go around it, most of the time not even sure what I am doing, so... I may have messed smth up on the way.

BTW my laptop can't read my USB, which is to be expected, but I will be able to turn into readable later, won't I?

More Details:

rEFIdn used - 0.9.2
How I configured it: Iunzipped it, I had to turn my security settings off in the recovery mode, and I think that worked for me after I ran it as it's is supposed to be ran, as said in the link. Long process, I don't remember all of it.

I set up a MacBook Air 2013 from scratch and tried to install Kali Linux 2.0. The install was successful, the big problem is the Broadcom wireless card though. But that's probably a second question.

Here is what I did:

First I made a fresh install of El Capitan 10.11.1 after repartitioning the internal drive to 1 partition with a GUID partition table.
After configuring El Capitan I downloaded Kali Linux and rEFInd 0.9.2
Then  I dd'ed the kali iso image to a thumb drive:

First get the disk identifier of the thumb drive and unmount it:

diskutil list

My thumb drive had the disk identifier disk2.

diskutil unmountDisk /dev/disk2

then dd the iso to the thumb drive:

sudo dd if=/Users/your_user_name/Downloads/kali-linux-2.0-amd64.iso of=/dev/rdisk2 bs=1m

The thumb drive will be bootable without installing rEFInd.
Then I booted to Recovery HD by holding cmdR while booting. Disable System Integrity Protection in Terminal with

csrutil disable

Reboot to Internet Recovery Mode by holding altcmdR.You will see a spinning globe animation while booting.
Since you probably have a CoreStorage partition after installing El Capitan you have to resize it. I doubt that the disk partition tool in the Kali Live USB drive succeeds with that. Open Terminal and enter:

diskutil cs list
diskutil cs resizeStack lvUUID size

lvUUID is the UUID of the Logical Volume. It's the last one listed in the output of diskutil cs list. The size has to be in t, g, m or k. Example: If your main disk has 250 GB and you need 40 GB free space to install Kali Linux to, enter 210g.

If you don't have a CoreStorage stack on your Mac you may choose Disk Utility to resize the main volume. The Recovery HD should be moved automatically in both cases.
Reboot while holding the alt key. Boot to the Windows partition of the thumb drive. Choose Graphical Install and configure the locale settings. The network interface install will probably fail. Choose none. Use the defaults of the disk partitioning tool. It will choose the empty space on your main disk to create a small boot partition for grub, a main partition and a swap partition. Then Kali Linux will be installed. Install grub to the mbr of your main disk.
After a reboot the Mac will boot to OS X. Eject the Kali Linux installer thumb drive.
Install rEFInd:

cd /Users/your_user_name/Downloads/refind-bin-0.9.2
./install.sh

Rename the refind folder and the efi file:

cd /Volumes/ESP/EFI
mv refind boot
mv boot/refind_x64.efi boot/bootx64.efi

Immediately after installing rEFInd the EFI volume is mounted at /Volumes/ESP and the install script fails to unmount it. If you mount disk0s1 later manually (e.g. after a reboot) with diskutil mount /dev/disk0s1 it will be mounted to /Volumes/EFI! Then you have to use cd /Volumes/EFI/EFI instead.
Quit Terminal and reboot while holding alt
Choose EFI Boot at the Mac boot screen and then Kali Linux at rEFInd boot screen.
Set up Kali Linux

Everything except the WLAN interface (and AFAIK the webcam) works now.

To further set up Kali Linux check the following resources:

HOWTO : Kali Linux 1.0.6 on MacBook Air (Mid 2013) 13 inches

To get the Broadcom chip to work check:

How to install Broadcom BCM4360 on debian on Macbook pro
How do I install build-essential without an Internet connection?
Kali 2.0 Installation Tips for Macbook Pro 2015 Retina
Broadcom firmware
Installing Debian On Apple MacBook Air6-2
b43 and b43legacy

Until now I haven't been able to get WLAN working but I'm investigating that and I will extend the answer as soon as I'm successful.

After setting up everything successfully boot to the Recovery HD again and reenable System Integrity Protection in Terminal with

csrutil enable

For the wlan just use the command sudo modprobe -r acer_wmi


External hard drive is snapping/making weird sounds in sleeping mode I have an external hard drive connected to macbook. When I am listening to music and my mac is not in sleeping mode everything is fine, but after 15 min. when display is turning off and music is still playing my hard drive has very weird behavior - it looks like it turning on/off every 40 seconds 'to load a little bit of music and continue sleeping' making simultaneously ugly sounds/snaps. I don't remember the same behavior when I used Windows.

It's likely just the parking of heads and the disk wanting to stay in "sleep" mode. You can read more about that here.

One way to stop the disk from going to sleep (some external enclosures have extreme disk sleep settings to conserve power) is to use pmset.

For example, to prevent an attached disk from going to sleep while your device is plugged in to AC (charger) is as follows:

sudo pmset -c disksleep 0

It's of note that this prevents all disks from going to sleep, not just the external enclosure.

pmset is the program that handles all power management settings on OS X. The Power Management Preference Pane is just a front end to that utility. All settings are persistent (saved on reboot) and are actually written to a plist (/Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/com.apple.PowerManagement.plist).

Additionally, you could try using HDAPM (I ran this for months before I moved to an SSD).

I would suggest trying to use pmset to prevent the disk from sleeping. It works on most external enclosures, but if you find that it's not honored by your manufacturer, you may have to find an alternate method. I've found WD and some Seagate enclosures to be problematic. pmset is not a hack and should be honored by all device manufacturers; however if you find that yours is not, try heading over to their support forums. They may have a firmware update or more information.

Lastly, if you suspect the drive of premature failure, you'll have to run a proper analysis of the drive's physical health. Disk Utility is not a reliable program in this case, as it deals with filesystem structure and integrity. You will want to use either a 3rd party utility (like Disk Warrior) or better yet, the free tools supplied by the hard drive's manufacturer (which will most likely require Windows).

You may have a drive hardware problem. If you are new to macs, you may have a drive that is formatted for Windows, and this possibly could also cause the noise.

To make sure that your drive is ok, you use Disk Utility. It's in the Utilities Folder, that is a sub-folder of Applications.

Run Disk Utility, select your drive, and then Verify Drive. It should not take too long. If it does turn out you have a problem, you need to get your information off of that drive asap. Then you reformat that drive (again, using Disk Utility). Then finally, check the drive once again.


Mac App Store opens to blank screen; cannot switch between menu options Today I tried opening the App Store to update some software, but when it opens I am left with a blank screen:

Also, when I click on the menu items in the top bar, multiple items will highlight in blue (but the blank screen will not change):

Does anyone know why this is happening? I am using Mac OSX 9.1 (Mavericks).

I killed all store* processes in Activity Monitor. Then relaunched App Store and it started working.

I had the same problem today..tried rebooting and working fine now.


Enabling both trackpad Drag Lock and 3 Finger Drag at once? OSX has two methods of dragging with the track pad, “drag lock” (double tap then drag until you tap to release) and “three finger drag” where you touch three fingers and drag until you release. The problem is, it forces you to select one or the other.

Is there any way I can manually turn both options on at the same time?

The reason this is useful is because 3 Finger Drag is great for short quick drags, but for longer drags you often run out of room on the trackpad. Drag Lock is good for long drags but is quite slow when you have a bunch of drags because you have to double tap into and tap out of the drag lock each time. It’d be really great to have both at once.

On OS X El Capitan 10.11.1, the following terminal commands seem to solve it for me on the Magic Trackpad (on the built in trackpad I can operate only one dragging mechanic at a time) :

# Enable "tap-and-a-half" to drag.
defaults write com.apple.driver.AppleBluetoothMultitouch.trackpad Dragging -int 1
defaults write com.apple.AppleMultitouchTrackpad Dragging -int 1

# Enable 3-finger drag. (Moving with 3 fingers in any window "chrome" moves the window.)
defaults write com.apple.driver.AppleBluetoothMultitouch.trackpad TrackpadThreeFingerDrag -bool true
defaults write com.apple.AppleMultitouchTrackpad TrackpadThreeFingerDrag -bool true

source: https://github.com/boochtek/mac_config/blob/master/trackpad.sh

Update: dug up a bit more and found the "tap behavior" mouse defaults entry, which requires the "2" preset in order to get "tap to drag" on the built in trackpad

defaults -currentHost write NSGlobalDomain com.apple.mouse.tapBehavior -int 2
defaults write NSGlobalDomain com.apple.mouse.tapBehavior -int 2

Open Terminal.app and execute the following command-lines one by one:

defaults write com.apple.AppleMultitouchTrackpad DragLock -bool true

defaults write com.apple.AppleMultitouchTrackpad TrackpadThreeFingerDrag -bool true


Why are my browsers only downloading some files but not others? My 12 month-old MacBook Pro just suddenly seems to not want to download certain files.

This sounds like a silly noob PEBKAC but it's not! For the past few weeks, most files that I click on in my browser which are not viewable in the browser (DMG, ZIP, etc) do not prompt me to save them. Instead of the Open with/Save File dialog appearing I just see a blank page and get the spinning wheel in that browser's tab. The status bar at the bottom reports "Transferring data from " but the download never completes, no matter how long I wait.

I've done some initial troubleshooting. Here's what I've ascertained:

I can use my web browser to view HTML pages, PNG images, JPG images, Flash sites, and even sites that load Java applets.
The issue is not specific to a file type (extension). I can download some ZIP files, but not others (see below).
The issue is not due to any ISP level filtering. My wife's computer, on the same network (older version of OS X) does not have this problem.
The issue is not related to the size of the file. See examples below.
From doing some digging on the mozillazine knowledgebase, I thought perhaps that my problem was a corrupt localstore.rdf file. I deleted this, both manually and using the "Safe mode" option, but it didn't seem to make any difference.
I've also tried resetting options related to browser.download in about:config, but this hasn't made any difference either.
It was at this stage that I tried other browsers, and came to the conclusion that it was something at the OS level. Yes, this problem occurs in ALL browsers that I have installed (Firefox 3.6, Opera, Safari and Chrome).
The issue happens regardless whether I'm connected to my home wi-fi network or a different wi-fi network (e.g. at work).
I currently have my firewall disabled in System Preferences.
(edit) After posting this question, I installed a download manager called Folx. Entering the URL of a file directly into this app seems to download any file just fine. However I'm stunned why the default browsers are behaving like this, and would prefer the lightweight browser default to a heavy, feature-rich third party download manager.

Here's an example of a file that I can download just fine. The Open with/Save file dialog appears, and I can specify a location to save the file. The file saves without problem.

This freeware font:
www.fontspace.com/livin-hell/carnivalee-freakshow
(click the Download button — I didn't link to
the zip file directly because the
site checks the referer to discourage
hotlinking)

And here are some files that display "Transferring data from somesite.com..." and a spinning wheel but never actually save any file to my local machine:

This freeware DMG file: mac.eltima.com/download/downloader_mac.dmg
This 512KB test.zip file on Dropbox: dl.dropbox.com/u/477850/StackOverflow/test.zip
This freeware font: www.1001freefonts.com/font/BaroqueScript.zip

Now I'm stuck. Any ideas from the community are very welcome! Also apologies for removing hyperlinks that were added for me by a mod — I couldn't update the post without removing them :(

Have you tried to ⌥-click a link to a download?

This usually guaranteed to download the file.

This is a known issue with OS X, but luckily there is a easy fix. Logout of your system, then logon with command held down to launch the System Preferences (advanced). Click CLEAR next to Browers - Download Policy.


com.apple.WebKit.Networking continually asking to sign using "privateKey" Title sums it up, pretty frequently, once an hour or so at work I get a pop up asking me to "always allow" "deny", or "allow" WebKit to sign using my private keychain. At this point I've answered it pretty much all ways and it keeps coming up.

Some information that may be relevant:

I'm not logged in as an administrator, but a normal privileged user
Happens most frequently when I log in
I have to use an invalid certificate to access a certain website for work. The pop up doesn't seem correlated with that website though
I'm on the beta release track of MacOS

Any ideas on how to make it stop? Comments about what more information I could provide would be welcome as well.

I had the same issue with my company SSO certificate, it's a known issue in MacOS Sierra 10.12

Temporary workaround available:

Open Keychain Access.
Select your login keychain and then the private key "YOUR ID/Company SSO Server" (Do not search for the item but find and select ... searching will not work properly to access the ACL option)

Open Keychain Access.
Select your login keychain and then the private key "" (Do not search for the item but find and select ... searching will not work properly to access the ACL option)
Double-click the key to show the key's info window select the tab "Access Control"
Click the + button at the bottom of the window and add /Applications/Safari.app
Click the + button at the bottom of the window and add /System/Library/Frameworks/WebKit.framework/Versions/A/XPCServices/com.apple.WebKit.Networking.xpc
Click Save Changes and authenticate to allow those changes
Quit Keychain Access.

FYI.
I found an article stating its a virus.
https://hotvirusmalwareremoval.com/steps-remove-com-apple-webkit-networking-xpc-mac/


How can i delete the 13.2gb photo library off of my phone? I have already gone through the creating an empty folder and synced just that folder and when that didn't work I unselected the box to sync photos and that also did not resolve my issue.  I'm at a loss on how to remove the data from my iPhone5.  I currently have 250 photos/videos on my phone that are just over 2gb...I would really appreciate help clearing out such a large portion of my harddrive

Try going to iCloud settings on the phone and turn off the Photos Sync setting. Then delete the photos from the phone.


How to add a keyboard shortcut for Insert Equation for Word 2016? I tried Word >> Tools >> Customize Keyboard >> EquationInsert, but I can't seem to modify the "Press new keyboard shortcut" box.

I also tried System Preferences >> Keyboard >> Shortcuts >> App Shortcuts, but adding "EquationInsert" or "Insert an equation" did not produce any responses.

Correct procedure but:
Write simply the word "Equation" (thats the word you have to call)

Tip: If you aren't sure what the menu name is for a command, click Help in that app and search for what you want, which will then show you the exact menu name.

Search under all commands, instead of Insert.


Can I hide the new messages notification in the Mail icon for only one of my email accounts? Basically I would like to have two email accounts setup on my iPhone 4, one my personal account and one for work.

However for the work account, I'd like to not have it's unread message count included in the number of unread messages displayed as a part of the Mail app's icon (the number in the red circle).

Is this possible to do?

No - there's no control for that on iOS 4.3 or less. If you disable that account it will temporarily turn it off on counts but the content stays loaded on the device.

I will second the suggestion to set up a separate folder to store the majority of the unread messages and use server side filtering or a manual process to get rid of the distracting/offending messages.

My phone and sanity are both better once I bit the bullet and set up a rule that says if it's unread over a week it goes into my triage later folder. I can still search for messages using spotlight, they are all where I can find them but my phone is faster and the badge is more meaningful without that pile of messages.

I'm not quite to inbox zero, but this was a good first step for me to getting there.

Sorry but you are all wrong... there is a way... I've spent the past several hours searching google for a forum for someone who knows... the reason why I know is because someone showed me once... I then reset my phone and the setting was reset and I've been trying for the past several days to remember how I did it.. yes IOS 7 and yes I did it... All I remember was that it wasn't very intuitive so hence why I've now forgotton... if I find it I will repost..


Moving from Lion to Snow Leopard So it turns out that I am not the greatest fan of Lion after all. Is there a way I can downgrade from the Lion OS to the Snow Leopard OS if I bought my laptop in mid 2011?

There are plenty of sites (http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2389334,00.asp and http://gigaom.com/apple/how-to-downgrade-from-lion-to-snow-leopard/ are two examples) that demonstrate how to revert back to Snow Leopard if your computer is older and once operated in Snow Leopard. But my MacBook Pro is brand new, and shipped with Lion. Trying to start in recovery mode (command - R at boot) , or from the Snow Leopard disk (C at boot) just results in kernel panics. Running the Snow Leopard disk from the Lion OS results in error messages ("You can't install this version of the application Install Mac OS X with this version of Mac OS X. You have Install Mac OS X 23.1"). And the one thing that does give me access to the Snow Leopard Drive (pressing option during startup with the Snow Leopard CD inserted and choosing "Recovery HD") only allows me to reinstall the Lion OS, not the Snow Leopard OS.

What should I do?

Any time you have problems starting a mac with an installer - do check these three articles:

Finding your Mac OS X version and build information
Mac OS X versions (builds) for computers
http://support.apple.com/manuals/# - enter your serial number on the page or in place of the # in the URL to determine the exact model of your mac.

In your case - you probably have a MacBook Pro (Early 2011) which will boot from (Mac OS X v10.6.6  Build 10J567) or later. You might see the term "retail disk" which means it has drivers for all Macs that can run that level of OS - this is different from the disks that ship with macs - you almost never can use say a MacBook Air restore disk on a MacBook Pro - they just have the drivers for that one model.

Normally, you could just buy a retail copy but the last 10.6 retail copy I've seen documented is 10.6.3 and is too old. You'll need to order a replacement disk through AppleCare online or via phone (or find someone in possession of your MacBook Pro's install media for Snow Leopard)

Most Apple Retail stores are set up to image your mac from the factory builds through the genius bar and since your mac is so new, I can't imagine the seller you bought it wouldn't bend over backwards to make sure you got a copy of the appropriate disk (they might even have a service desk that could assist you)

Google Mac os x snow leopard 10.6.7 ISO and download the full 7-8 GB ISO make a new partition about 8-10 GB in disk utility open the ISO put all of the files from the ISO to the new partition and boot from the partition and it will boot in to snow leopard


Bluetooth and WiFi interfering with one another since Yosemite Note: The only thing that changed in my setup is installing Yosemite.

Since installing Yosemite, I'm having a somewhat peculiar problem: WiFi works fine, and BT works fine. But WiFi + BT working together at the same time is a different story.

I first noticed this yesterday. Two things happen, and the second is more prevalent:

I was using Apple's Magic Mouse + wireless keyboard, and began downloading a large file. Once this happened, mouse movement began being really slow, as if I'm trying to move the mouse on a very uneven surface. Pausing the download would bring the mouse's movement back to normal.
But then something else started happening: Turning BT on would effectively kill my internet connection. From the moment I turn on BT and start using mouse & keyboard, my download speed would go quickly from 1.3MB/s to 500B/s (yes, Bytes), and die slowly from there. When this happens, my mouse movement is just fine. Upon turning BT off, download speed shoots back up to 1.3MB/s.

So to me it seems like BT and WiFi are "competing" with each other, like they're sharing the "same lane" when they shouldn't. Either the normal WiFi speeds will make my mouse move really slowly, or, if my BT is working fine, then my WiFi download speeds will be abysmal. This seems to only happen (or be noticeable) when I'm downloading something like a big file.

I've tried many solutions — PRAM, hardware tests, etc..nothing seems to have helped.

WTH?

Note: This question isn't about the (seemingly more common) WiFi dropping issues, please don't hijack it.

Update 1: There seem to be more people having this issue.

Update 2: Problem persists even after updating to OS X 10.10.1.

Update 3: Over 5 months later, and Apple still haven't fixed this.

Update 4: (29/10/15) One year later (on the latest OS X El Capitan), and my rMBP is still suffering from this issue. Work perfectly on their own, but together they get very challenging. For those who suggested to just get a 5GHz router — I appreciate your responses. However, I don't think I should be obligated to buy a new router just because Apple messed up their software. This is no fix for the underlying issue that is clearly still there for many people. The answer selected as "correct" was auto selected since this was a bounty quesiton.

Bluetooth and IEEE 802.11/b/g/n (WIFI) use almost the same frequency bands:

Bluetooth: 2.402 - 2.480 GHz (79 channels)
WIFI 2.4 GHz (IEEE 802.11/b/g/n): 2.4 – 2.4835 GHz (11, 13 or 14 channels depending on the country)

Usually Bluetooth uses frequency hopping and changes the possible 79 x 1 MHz bands 1600 times a second to avoid disturbances while WIFI uses fixed channels.

Obviously something went wrong developing the latest Bluetooth- or WIFI-drivers.

The only workaround until Apple gets their drivers fixed is using dual band wireless access points. Those devices use two different frequency bands:
2.4 – 2.4835 GHz and 5.18 - 5.825 GHz (with some gaps).
Connecting to WIFI 5 GHz (IEEE 802.11a/h/n) will not interfere with Bluetooth.

Almost all Macs sold since 2006 support 802.11 a/b/g/n.

Apple's answer: Wi-Fi and Bluetooth: Potential sources of wireless interference

BTW: Not only typical RF-based devices (like wireless phones, etc) but also bad-shielded USB3-devices and cables interfere with WIFI (2.4 GHz) and Bluetooth.

For visitor who are using BootCamp and encounter this question while searching for a solution, this worked for me on MBP 2017 with Microsoft Designer Set (Mouse and Keyboard)

Device Manager > Network Adapters > Broadcom 802.11ac Network Adapter > Right click and Select Properties > Advanced Tab > Bluetooth Collaboration > Disable


Can I stop mac 10.8 from saving previous open programs/finder windows after power shutdown? I think what I'm looking for is a .plist file.

specifically what I want, is it possible to clear whatever files saves last opened windows that are re-opened on startup that get saved after a shutdown from the power button or general power failure without disrupting general use.

other than wth terminal you can try omyx http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/11582/onyx


How to change the main user name of a used MacBook on macOS 10.13? I just bought a used MacBook Air 2012 with High Sierra. I would like to change the user name to mine. I tried changing it in the address book or at the preference login but the old name is still stuck when I look at it from anywhere else such as in Terminal or on the side pane of finder. Any suggestions?

You can do the short name shuffle. I prefer this over trying to rename an existing account. Much better to make it “new” with the old files intact.

Make a new admin - to rename the old account(s)
Log out of the old and in to the new
Use the new to delete the old account - answer “don’t change” the home folder when asked
Open /Users and rename the deleted folder to be the new account short name of your choice
Create a new account - specify the new short name from above step

The system sees the user folder is present and asks you to confirm to reuse it, answer yes. Log out of the new admin and test the old documents with the new renamed account. No need to delete the temp account, but you can now if you please.

Changing your username is very difficult once your operating system is installed and a user is set up, because that would involve having to change the path and corresponding file permissions of your home user folder, all without creating a new home user. With that being said,

the best way is to:

Back up your current user to an external hard drive using bootcamp or the free app called SuperDuper!
Completely reformat (optional) and reinstall (optional) MacOS (recommended for 2nd hand Macs).
Create a new user from MacOS.
Import your old user files into your new user account using
Migration Assistant or SuperDuper,

Then you are done.