Installing Previous Firmware in iPhone | New Firmware keeps Rebooting iPhone After upgrading to iOS 14.4.2 my iphone keeps rebooting every 5 mins! I would like to restore my iphone to iOS 14.3.7. After finding signed firmware I tried using iTunes but kept getting error 9 . I found the solution in iFixit where Barry's answers stated that (in short) this is Apples way of giving trouble by removing signed firmware! However he suggested a solution that utilizes paid version of the software to flash earlier version of firmware (ISPW) into iphone, using Reiboot
Now my iphone is completely unlocked, with my account signed in and everything is legit, yet if I restore earlier ISPW, then iTunes keep giving me error that I cant install old firmware! I need to know if there are any free tools online or Github project that can flash old firmware into iPhone? or anyway to check what is causing kernel panic.
When I say old firmware i mean just one step earlier revision where my iphone didnt keep rebooting!

(update 1) iOS 14.4.2 is known to have heating issue which is perhaps why my iphone is rebooting - source

If I have to be honest (and it’s really neat that you are doing this), you probably shouldn’t install previous firmware. It’s probably rebooting for a reason. There might be some broken blocks or code. It could also be infected, possibly malware or an app that uses your device for Crypto Mining. It could also be your device. Please let me know if this helps!


NAS - "there was a problem connecting to the server" while on other networks On my home network, I have a NAS I regularly use for storage.

I have set my Mac to automatically mount it via a login item to open the directory on the System Preferences/Users & Groups pane.

I also use my Mac at work, though, where I can't access the NAS any more, because it's on a different network.

This means I get a ton of persistent "There was a problem connecting to the server" messages. I can close them, but they pop back up again.

Is there a better way to do what I'm doing, or to disable those messages?

What you need is a network location manager program, typically these allow you to perform certain actions (e.g. connect to a network drive) when the machine is on some networks and not on others. Several years ago I was using one, now defunct, so I can't recommend any from experience. What I found now are things like Sidekick ($29), Control Plane (free).

You can also do this with a script (e.g. Login Item, if you log off or shutdown the machine when moving it from home to work or vice versa, or cron job) to determine the network the machine is on and depending on it to connect to the network drive (if not already connected) or not.

I had the same problem and solved it this way. Go to SYSTEM PREFERENCES / USERS & GROUPS , there, select your user name and then click on LOGIN ITEMS. Check whether in this list there is a network drive, such as a share on your NAS. If yes, it means that your Mac is automatically trying to log on to that drive on starting up your computer.

On my Mac I had a connection to a network share on my NAS. After removing it, the "There was a problem connecting to the server" messages stopped immediately, even with the NAS switched off.


Is the retina Macbook Pro's SSD soldered into the logic board? The Macbook Air's SSD can be manually upgraded.
The RAM of the Macbook Air and retina MBP however are soldered into the logic board.
Question
Is the retina Macbook Pro's SSD soldered into the logic board as well?

No - The SSD card is a discrete component on the new retina MacBook Pro and can be ordered as an Apple service part. Time will tell if an aftermarket supplier decides to supply parts for that model.

Even though it's not soldered, it still is not a user-servicable part.

As ArsTechnica reports:

  While Apple uses the latest SATA protocol, the connector is physically incompatible with either Mini PCIe or mSATA.

Though I can't cite any facts, but due to the similarities and the engineering behind the product to give us such a thin form factor. I doubt it. I foresee the RAM being user accessible, not the SSD ( like the Air)
We really wont' know til iFixit.com puts our a guide.


MacBook Pro 13-inch maximum memory This Apple support article, MacBook Pro: How to remove or install memory, says that the maximum memory on a MacBook Pro 13-inch is 8 GB. Is that a hard limit? Why could I not install a 16 GB memory stick in there? Would it work, but only for the first 8 GB? Is there any way around the limit?

To pick a random 13" MBP, such as this one from mid 2012:
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i5-2.5-13-mid-2012-unibody-usb3-specs.html
The 8Gb limit seems to be an Apple supported limit, but many people happily report getting 16Gb working fine - see the memory section in the link as well as this page for details.

The "Mid-2009" and "Mid-2010" MacBook Pro models support 1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SO-DIMMs and officially and unofficially support a maximum of 8 GB of RAM with one odd exception.
Specifically, as discovered by OWC, the 13-Inch "Mid-2010" MacBook Pro models (and only the 13-Inch models) -- the MacBook Pro "Core 2 Duo" 2.4 13" Mid-2010 and "Core 2 Duo" 2.66 13" Mid-2010 identified by MacBookPro7,1 -- can support up to 16 GB of RAM with dual 8 GB memory modules if they are running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, have been updated to use the latest EFI, and are equipped with proper specification memory modules. If running a version of Mac OS X 10.6 "Snow Leopard," these models only can use 8 GB of RAM.
The "Early 2011" and "Late 2011" MacBook Pro models use faster 1333 MHz PC3-10600 DDR3 SO-DIMMs. They officially support 8 GB of RAM, but OWC has determined that they actually support 16 GB of RAM regardless of the operating system installed, although only the "Early 2011" MacBook Pro models are capable of running a version of Mac OS X 10.6 "Snow Leopard."
Finally, the "Mid-2012" non-Retina Display MacBook Pro models use faster still 1600 MHz PC3-12800 DDR3 SO-DIMMs and likewise officially support 8 GB of RAM, but actually can support as much as 16 GB of RAM. These models do not run versions of OS X prior to OS X 10.7 "Lion."

Just installed 2x8Gb memory modules to Macbook Pro 13 inch (mid-2012), it works great.


Is replacing HDD by SSD worth it with Core 2 Duo and Filevault2 enabled Will I see some speed improvment by replacing the original 5400-rpm with a SSD on a MBP Core2Duo with Filevault2 enabled? Or it is a waste of money?

I ask this question because I know Filevault tend to kill performance of SSD on Core2Duo since this cpu doesnt have the AES-ni instructions as i5-i7 have...

I didnt find many benchmarks results...

My current HDD stats with Filevault2 enabled are (measured with XBench):

Sequential:
  Uncached Write: 46MB/s (4K blocks)
  Uncached Write: 30MB/s (256K blocks)
  Uncached Read: 15MB/s (4K blocks)
  Uncached Read: 42MB/s (256 blocks)
Random:
  Uncached Write: 0.95MB/s (4K blocks)
  Uncached Write: 18MB/s (256 blocks)
  Uncached Read: 0.39MB/s (4K blocks)
  Uncached Read: 15MB/s (256 blocks)

UPDATE:
I installed a Crucial M4 here is the new stats:

Sequential:
  Uncached Write: 153MB/s (4K blocks)
  Uncached Write: 97MB/s (256K blocks)
  Uncached Read: 23MB/s (4K blocks)
  Uncached Read: 130MB/s (256 blocks)
Random:
  Uncached Write: 93MB/s (4K blocks)
  Uncached Write: 101MB/s (256 blocks)
  Uncached Read: 13MB/s (4K blocks)
  Uncached Read: 119MB/s (256 blocks)

As you see, a nice boost even if it's only a non-AES-NI Core Duo 2.26 with Filevault2 enabled

You will see a great improvement in performance. You will lose some performance due to the encryption but you will at least get two and half times the performance of your current drive.

I used to have a HDD on my mac mini 2009 (intel core duo 2) and it was pretty slow! So I switched to a SSD and everything launched and performed a LOT faster!


Spotlight index has ghost app that I cannot get rid of Spotlight has ghost entries for an USB disk that I cannot get rid of. It links to a bootable usb disk that is not currently connected. I have added that disk to Spotlight Privacy. Nothing I have tried unloading, reseting, deleting and reloading spotlight. Nothing.

These ghost entries do not show up when using Finder search.

Where are Spotlight caches stored other than .Spotlight-V100 ? There must be a place so that they survive cache rebuilding.

I am on 10.12.1 MBP and it is a clean install from two days. No use of migration assistant, etc. No external disk currently connected. Single partition.

The indexing is not finished, I would wait until it is finished before considering an error.

If the indexing is still going on 2 days after the clean install, you either have a big drive with a lot of files or it's hung on something. That usually happens with wrong permissions on some files and in worse cases because of I/O errors of the drive.

In order to check that you should take the following steps:

First: run the Disc Utility found in /Applications/Utilities/ to check your drive and repair permissions. Details for usage can be found on the Apple Support Pages found here

Next: I strongly suggest you rebuild the Spotlight Index in any case. A guide to do that can be found on the Apple Support Page here (In short: Click on the Apple Icon > Privacy > add your drive, confirm, then remove it again)

Most likely your problems will be solved after these steps.

In addition to the answer of @J.C. you can find out where the location is by pressing in Spotlight the CMD key. At bottom you see the path of the selected item. Double click on the item during hold down the CMD will open the location.

Workaround (hope this help)

Please Plug the named drive to your Mac.
Open your Terminal and type line by line the following commands.

sudo mdutil -i off /Volumes/yourdrive
sudo rm -rf /Volumes/yourdrive .Spotlight*
sudo mdutil -i on /Volumes/yourdrive
sudo mdutil -E /Volumes/yourdrive

Change the entry yourdrive with the name of your drive.

How to find the name of the drive?

Type in Terminal ls -al /Volumes will show all connected drives by name.
Note: If you begin to Type a command in the Terminal you can use the TAB key to complete the path.

Description of the commands above line by line:

disable Spotlight on the named drive
remove the .spotlight folder of the named drive
enable Spotlight index on the named drive
Rebuild the index of the named drive.

Please read the man documentation by Type in your Terminal man mdutil or on the Apple man Page


How to connect a USB-C-based MacBook to a Thunderbolt display? Given the new 12" Retina MacBook doesn't have a Thunderbolt and only has a USB-C port, how do I connect it to an existing Thunderbolt display?

As @Kevin McKenzie already said, and just to expand on it.

At present there is no adapter for the USB-C to Thunderbolt.

Here is quote from http://9to5mac.com/2015/03/09/apples-12-macbook-gets-new-usb-c-power-vga-usb-and-hdmi-adapters/

  Thunderbolt Gen 1 and 2 don’t support USB 3.1, Type C or even 3.0 for
  that matter. An adapter wouldn’t have fixed this problem. However,
  Apple is releasing Thunderbolt 3 later in 2015. It’s not ready yet,
  because it’s developed with Intel and now Gen 3’s functionality is
  tied to Skylake chips – which will replace Broadwell shortly. I know.
  You’re thinking “But Broadwell just came out!” That’s true, but only
  because of delays. Now, you may wonder how a new MacBook without a
  Thunderbolt port or a Skylake chip will support a Thunderbolt Display.

  Well, in short it won’t. That is unless Apple releases a firmware
  update for their Thunderbolt cables. Which they won’t. So it probably
  won’t support it. Considering the last time they updated it, I think
  we’ll see an update at WWDC, with a USB C port on the display itself.

Could this be a solution to connect the new MacBook to a Thunderbolt display?

Using the following adapters (and an Ethernet cable):


macOS 11 Pyenv Python 3.9.0 Install Error I am trying to install python 3.9.0 on macOS 11.0.1. I have the latest version of brew and the latest pyenv.
sids@Sids-MacBook-Pro ~ % pyenv install 3.9.0
python-build: use openssl@1.1 from homebrew
python-build: use readline from homebrew
Downloading Python-3.9.0.tar.xz...
-> https://www.python.org/ftp/python/3.9.0/Python-3.9.0.tar.xz
Installing Python-3.9.0...
python-build: use readline from homebrew
python-build: use zlib from xcode sdk

BUILD FAILED (OS X 10.16 using python-build 20180424)

Inspect or clean up the working tree at /var/folders/8s/jlqpkvqj21zcq8d5kw_ndz180000gn/T/python-build.20201129164129.61815
Results logged to /var/folders/8s/jlqpkvqj21zcq8d5kw_ndz180000gn/T/python-build.20201129164129.61815.log

Last 10 log lines:
  File "/private/var/folders/8s/jlqpkvqj21zcq8d5kw_ndz180000gn/T/python-build.20201129164129.61815/Python-3.9.0/Lib/ensurepip/__init__.py", line 210, in _main
    return _bootstrap(
  File "/private/var/folders/8s/jlqpkvqj21zcq8d5kw_ndz180000gn/T/python-build.20201129164129.61815/Python-3.9.0/Lib/ensurepip/__init__.py", line 129, in _bootstrap
    return _run_pip(args + [p[0] for p in _PROJECTS], additional_paths)
  File "/private/var/folders/8s/jlqpkvqj21zcq8d5kw_ndz180000gn/T/python-build.20201129164129.61815/Python-3.9.0/Lib/ensurepip/__init__.py", line 38, in _run_pip
    return subprocess.run([sys.executable, "-c", code], check=True).returncode
  File "/private/var/folders/8s/jlqpkvqj21zcq8d5kw_ndz180000gn/T/python-build.20201129164129.61815/Python-3.9.0/Lib/subprocess.py", line 524, in run
    raise CalledProcessError(retcode, process.args,
subprocess.CalledProcessError: Command '['/private/var/folders/8s/jlqpkvqj21zcq8d5kw_ndz180000gn/T/python-build.20201129164129.61815/Python-3.9.0/python.exe', '-c', '\nimport runpy\nimport sys\nsys.path = [\'/var/folders/8s/jlqpkvqj21zcq8d5kw_ndz180000gn/T/tmpqmtz59lr/setuptools-49.2.1-py3-none-any.whl\', \'/var/folders/8s/jlqpkvqj21zcq8d5kw_ndz180000gn/T/tmpqmtz59lr/pip-20.2.3-py2.py3-none-any.whl\'] + sys.path\nsys.argv[1:] = [\'install\', \'--no-cache-dir\', \'--no-index\', \'--find-links\', \'/var/folders/8s/jlqpkvqj21zcq8d5kw_ndz180000gn/T/tmpqmtz59lr\', \'--root\', \'/\', \'--upgrade\', \'setuptools\', \'pip\']\nrunpy.run_module("pip", run_name="__main__", alter_sys=True)\n']' returned non-zero exit status 1.
make: *** [install] Error 1

I am not sure why this error is occurring. Has it got something to do with the second to last line, where it includes: /private/var/folders/8s/jlqpkvqj21zcq8d5kw_ndz180000gn/T/python-build.20201129164129.61815/Python-3.9.0/python.exe It seems as though the .exe is being built, but I'm on macOS.
How do I fix this and install Python 3.9.0?

You should go to python.org and click on the download 3.9.0 link. You'll get an option to load python 3.9.0. Follow the instructions there.


Collect results in for loop when run shell script I try to collect results of "svn info" for selected folders by run shell script,like this:

for f in "$@"; do
    svn info $f | tee -a $log_file
done

But it's not work. How can I collect each result in for loop?

The problem is that "Automator" is not support some encoding such as GB18030.Once your file name encoding with them, they can't be convert to utf-8 , it returns a error.


How to know where and when my iphone was bought? Is it possible to look up where and when an iPhone was purchased, based only on the serial number or other unique info inside the phone?

I don't know of a public tool for looking this up. However, if you befriend an Apple Genius, I know that the system they use for creating tickets allows them to view the purchase date and sales channel it was purchased through. However, there is no way to tell direct location (i.e. Best Buy on Main Street in St. Paul), only the channel (i.e. Best Buy).

You can also deduce the purchase date yourself by going to Apple's Check Your Service and Support Coverage page. If you locate the expiration date for repair coverage, subtract a year from that to identify original purchase date. If AppleCare was purchased, subtract an extra year.

You can check iPhone/iPad purchase date and contract status with this IMEI checker - www.iphoneox.com

It doesn't show where you purchased the phone, but it should show the original carrier which narrows things down substantially.

Also this checker shows whether a carrier lock is active against that device.


Red box on Finder icon in Dock Please see this image:

I don't know what's going on with that icon, but it has been persistent for the past week. It became like that when I forced the shutdown on my Mac because it hanged up. I've just upgraded to El Capitan when it happened.

I've tried the following:

Reboot
Relaunch Finder
Quit Finder and Dock on Activity Terminal
killall Dock

Nothing worked so far.

Update:

As per user24601's suggestion, I've tried the following:

Turned on magnification. It persists on zoom. Please see image:

Tried to change position. It still persists:

I ended up reporting it as deeeeeeekun suggested. Some of the suggested workaround in the comments were also suggested to me. This is the solution they gave that worked:

1) cd getconf DARWIN_USER_CACHE_DIR

2) attach com.apple.dock.iconcache to radar

3) rm com.apple.dock.iconcache; killall Dock

I'll update the answer when they give me the reason why the redbox happened.

I had the same problem with a half red/pink box on my finder icon (like a hat).

Just a 'killall Dock' command in the Terminal fixed it.


Fundamental Difference Between Charging An iPhone At The Mains & Via USB Cable Linked To An iMac? If you are working at an iMac and there is also a mains socket close at hand, is there any difference (in any respect) to charging an iPhone via USB cable linked to the Mac or is it more advisable to charge via a charger to the mains socket.

eg

Is there a difference in the time taken to charge using one method than the other. ?

If using the Mac to charge, does it cause the Mac to use more RAM in the process (and could this prove to be detrimental on Mac performance if using resource hungry software). ?

According to Apple's support document on the subject:

  For the quickest charge, connect the device to a power outlet using the USB cable that came with the device and an Apple USB power adapter.

The USB spec limits the amount of current that a device may draw from a USB port (500 mA); the included Apple standalone power adapter can supply double that (1 A). The difference is even more dramatic for devices that have higher current draw to recharge (newer model iPads, for example).

Generally speaking, charging from your computer won't affect the performance of your computer at all as long as you aren't syncing or otherwise interacting with the device. USB can supply power without requiring data transmission (such is the case for wall adapters).

It seems to me that my iPhone actually charges faster when connected to my car battery via the cigarette lighter outlet. :-)
\


Overwritten Mac note I was typing and I accidentally hit CmdA (Select All) and then I continued typing. That wiped my entire note and CmdZ (Undo) didn't work. Time Machine and iCloud weren't on, it was locally stored and I only have one drive.

I then tried to recover it with a data recovery software and here's what I found on the data recovery software. (Apologies for the image you'll have to zoom in) It's the NotesV7.storedata file dated right BEFORE I wiped my text. But the thing is I do not know what to do next. Do I retrieve it and replace the old one? Will my notes even reappear?

There's 8 months' worth of work in there and I hope somebody can help.

There’s nothing to recover.

Notes is autosaved the moment you make a change, so it saved your deletion
You didn’t delete the file, you changed it’s contents so recovery software can’t help.  No software can distinguish the difference between “Oops” and “I meant to do that”
Cloud storage isn’t back up, it’s file synchronization for availability everywhere.  That saved file was synced to all of your devices when it changed.
Time machine would be the best way to protect your data. This needs to be configured and used.

Now, if you do use iCloud, but it just wasn't “on” during this period, it may be your saving grace.  Using a different computer, log into your iCloud account (iCloud drive) via a web browser and download a copy of your notes.  Make a backup of this file!

Now, if you log back into your computer, you can copy the notes back and have it sync.  Then turn on a Time Machine.

The other device where iCloud is logged in can be used to recover it. The condition is to take it offline.

I keep my iPhone in low power mode, so notes won't sync unless I open the app. So if something like that happened to me, I'd just put the phone on airplane mode, and copy paste the note.


The browser doesn't show videos on Youtube Today I noticed that Safari doesn't show anymore the videos shown on Youtube; I just see a black rectangle, and when I try to use the popup menu in that area, it doesn't appear.

As far as I can remember, one week ago I was able to see videos on Youtube. Something is changed in this week; for what I can remember, Safari has not been updated, in these days.

How can I find the reason of the problem, and eventually resolve it?

I have the same problem and the only solution I have in the moment is to change the User Agent using the Developer Menu. Safari 4.1.3 - Mac works for me. But this is not permanent! You have to change it every time yu start Safari :-(

Could it be that Adobe Flash has crashed? Are you running the latest version?

Also in this time have you restarted Safari/your Mac? If not that may get Flash working again.


Snow Leopard cannot find my LaCie Network Space 2 when it's connected through USB. I have a LaCie Network Space 2 (and I wish I had bought a WD instead) which is connected to my iMac with USB. I have used it before through LAN, but I've moved my Mac to another room and now I connected it with USB as that transfers faster. The problem is that the disk doesn't show up in the Finder, not even in Disk Utilities. I've been fighting with this for a few hours now, but I couldn't find anything :(

Windows, however can find it.

What can be wrong?

I'm using Snow Leopard.

Same thing happened to me couple of times. I powered the HDD on/off couple of times and then restarted the Mac before it reappeared again on Finder.

Try using Disk Utility to repair disk permissions on your computer, while the external drive is plugged in.

Then try resetting your PRAM.

Then try connecting to the drive using something other than USB (eg, firewire).


What's slowing down my Mac? I have the following mac:

iMac (27-inch, Late 2013)
3.4 GHz Intel Core i5
8 GB 1600 MHz DDR3
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 775M 2048 MB

It has a HDD, and I have 240GB out of 1TB free space.

I'm on OS X El Capitan (10.11.3).

Since some time this mac has been very, very frustratingly slow. It takes about 15 minutes to go from a clean boot to getting firefox up and running. Especially starting applications is painful. It's a bit hard to quantify though, because at other times it seems ok. There's a big perception/psychology part to it.

I'm considering doing a fresh install, and perhaps go with an older OS X. But I'm also just extremely curious what's causing this. I can't figure it out. I know HDD's are slower, but the machine was fine when I got it, and I find it hard to believe that newer OS X's are so much worse.

Here's a few things I've done:

Turn off time machine, for good measure.
Turn off dropbox. My dropbox is rather large and I noticed it can be a pretty big factor when it's indexing.
I don't use FileFault.
1Password is in the startup items, nothing more.
I recently did a scan of my disk in recovery mode, to ensure that the disk wasn't failing. S.M.A.R.T. says verified.

There's nothing out of the ordinary in Activity Manager / htop. CPU and Memory both seem reasonable. Also worth mentioning that if I start a game like Starcraft or Cities Skylines, these applications perform pretty well once started. Starting them takes a long time though.

I'm basically at a loss why my fairly new Mac is worse at running applications as back when I got my first white macbook in 2006, when the applications I'm running haven't changed (firefox, terminal, thunderbird), and Memory quadrupled.

I'm very comfortable with the command line, and I just want to satisfy my curiosity. What causes my computer to take 15 minutes to go from boot to Firefox? How can I measure what the computer spends time on? Are there maybe obvious performance improvements I missed?

diskutil list output:

/dev/disk0 (internal, physical):
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *1.0 TB     disk0
   1:                        EFI EFI                     209.7 MB   disk0s1
   2:                  Apple_HFS Macintosh HD            999.3 GB   disk0s2
   3:                 Apple_Boot Recovery HD             650.0 MB   disk0s3

A few (maybe) interesting items from system.log:

I got a bunch of these:

Mar 20 19:13:18 localhost kernel[0]: Sandbox: launchd(1) System Policy: deny(1) file-write-flags /private/var/run/dyld_shared_cache_x86_64h
Mar 20 19:13:18 localhost kernel[0]: Sandbox: launchd(1) System Policy: deny(1) file-write-unlink /private/var/run/dyld_shared_cache_x86_64h

A whole bunch of these for all my applications:

Mar 20 19:15:44 Pasta kernel[0]: Sandbox: coreduetd(74) deny(1) file-read-metadata /
Mar 20 19:15:44 --- last message repeated 23 times ---
Mar 20 19:15:44 Pasta kernel[0]: Sandbox: coreduetd(74) deny(1) file-read-metadata /Applications/App Store.app
Mar 20 19:15:44 --- last message repeated 4 times ---
Mar 20 19:15:44 Pasta kernel[0]: Sandbox: coreduetd(74) deny(1) file-read-metadata /Applications/Automator.app
Mar 20 19:15:44 --- last message repeated 4 times ---
Mar 20 19:15:44 Pasta kernel[0]: Sandbox: coreduetd(74) deny(1) file-read-metadata /Applications/Calculator.app
Mar 20 19:15:45 --- last message repeated 4 times ---
Mar 20 19:15:44 Pasta kernel[0]: Sandbox: coreduetd(74) deny(1) file-read-metadata /Applications/Calendar.app

Your machine should not be this slow.  If the below doesn't help, you can take it to an Apple store to run hardware tests.  I've seen instances where faulty sensors, for example, would cause the computer to go into limp mode, and the hard drive was fine.

Have you tried resetting the PRAM?

There are some command line utilities that should be able to pinpoint what's using the disk (if that's the case).  You can try iostat 1 - this will display general disk activity, refreshing every second.

To see more granular info such as the process, use "fs_fsusage": sudo fs_usage -f diskio

I'd first try to narrow down what's eating all the I/O using the above commands.  You can always wipe and reinstall if you want, but if you restore your entire Time Machine backup, you'll be potentially re-introducing the problem.  So I'd say only restore your data/ user account w/o the ~/Library folder if possible.

On the hardware side of things, these devices shipped with at least 7200 RPM drives.  While much better than the slower 5400, modern OSes will still choke with excessive disk activity (spotlight, time machine, various system services).

Replacing the drive with an SSD on your own IS possible but you need tools, and have to be very careful handling the screen.  So if you've never done it before I'd recommend paying someone to do.

EDIT: Also check your system log in Console... look for disk i/o errors

Running down "my computer is slow" problems is what keep IT & computer repair people in business as it is tough to narrow down.

Before doing much else I would be tempted to clone your HD to an external drive and then unplug it. Nothing like a well meaning maintenance routine doing something unexpected and hosing some (or all) of your data.

Not sure that zapping the PRAM is going to help with slowness issues, then again it can't hurt and only takes a few minutes, or in your case about 15.

I would run one of the maintenance utilities like Onyx or such. Go to the Automate tab, check all the boxes and let it do it's thing. Reboot when it is done and see what happens.

I would also boot into recovery mode and run Disk Utility and click on the drive and then repair to verify there really is nothing wrong with the drive.

If all of that does not work I would make sure you have a clone of your drive standing by, wipe the internal and reinstall the OS fresh. If it then boots up and is faster use the Migration Utility to copy your files and settings. I would be hesitant to copy the apps over as something there might have caused the problem (assuming migrating your settings didn't slow things down, then it is likely a preference file that is damaged or is putting the Mac in a strange state.)

Failing all of that then your choices boil down to an older OS that is not so resource intensive or a new SSD. El Cap. really does use all of the resources on a Mac: Memory & Storage to it's fullest so if it is choking a little on memory or utilizing the drive a lot those are potential slow downs and a faster SSD or more memory may indeed help the situation.

I have an older iMac with El Cap. and finally (because I didn't want to go through opening it up --what a mess--) I added an external Firewire 2 drive which helped the performance quite a bit. But internal gives you the best performance, your choice.


How to persistently define aliases in Terminal I want to add aliases to my environment so that they are available in all Terminal instances.

I got this answer:

  Yes, you can put it in your .bashrc, .bash_profile or .profile. On some systems the shell init scripts also source .bash_aliases or .aliases so if one of those files exists on your system it may make sense to use them.`

But I cannot find any of these files.

(I configured OS X to see hidden files, and yet I don't see any of the above 4.)

If you use bash, add the alias commands to ~/.bashrc and save a file like this as ~/.bash_profile:

. ~/.bashrc

When bash is invoked as an interactive non-login shell, it reads .bashrc but not .bash_profile. When bash is it is invoked as an interactive login shell, it reads .bash_profile but not .bashrc.

Terminal and iTerm open new shells as login shells by default, so many OS X users just use .bash_profile as their personal configuration file. For example tmux and the shell mode in Emacs open new shells as non-login shells though.

.profile is also read by other shells like ksh. If both .bash_profile and .profile exist, bash only reads .bash_profile when it is invoked as an interactive login shell.

See https://www.gnu.org/software/bash/manual/html_node/Bash-Startup-Files.html for more information.

i had the same Problem, that i had no .bash or .profile in my Profiles location.
i finally found it in /etc


Show download speeds in Safari When downloading files in Safari you can see your current downloads in View -> Current Downloads or AltCommandL

If my memory serves me right, this window also showed the download speeds as well (this was in previous versions of Safari when it used to be a separate window). But I can not figure out how to bring up the downloads speeds.

My question: How can I see my current download speeds in Safari (version 6) without the use of any extensions of third party apps?

After reading this thread and with the reproducibility described here, I started to believe that this is a bug. In this thread OS X users complain that sometimes download speed is visible and sometimes not.
It was suggested to completely quit Safari, open terminal and execute:

rm ~/Library/Safari/Downloads.plist

And launch Safari again. That did not work for me.

The following steps might show your download speed (80% change, your mileage may vary):

Start a download
Pause that download
Close the download window
Wait 5 seconds and open the download window
Resuming the download
(after closing the download window, you need to do this all over again)

Screenshot, showing visible download speed (OS X 10.8.5 and Safari 6.0.5):

just click twice on the download window...the second time will appear detailed ;)

cheers


Macbook 5,2 Black Screen Issue Macbook screen goes black a few seconds after been woken or started up. I've tried everything outside of opening it up or bringing it back to the hive.

Has anyone else run into this issue, or am I a lonely sailor sailing up a creek of sticky brown paste that's not chocolate?

It's a Macbook 5,2 (early 2009, 10.5).

A couple of things to try would be:
Reset the PRAM

Restart your Mac

As soon as you press the power button to turn it back on, hold the
⌘ +  ⌥ + P + R keys until you hear the startup chime twice

Reset the SMC

Shut down your Mac

Remove the battery and unplug the power cable

Hold down the power button for 10 seconds and then let go

Restart your Mac normally

These steps may not resolve your issue, but it's worth a shot. If they do no resolve the issue, it is likely related to the inverter board, which sends power to your display backlight. It's relatively common in this model MacBook.
It shouldn't be to expensive to repair, but I would not recommend doing it yourself. It's taken me hours to do that repair, and that's in an Apple Store with all the right tools, Apple Technician Guides and the proper training.

It's probably broken (usually by heat).

My friend got similar problem and the service changed his graphics "card" in the notebook. He played a lot WoW on his notebook and sometimes got it really extremely hot.


Macbook Pro Retina 15'' - High CPU temperature I've seen a few similar questions on here but none seem to have a good answer, nor seeing the temperature levels I'm seeing.

Notebook is only a month old and just installed iStat Menus and noticed that the "CPU Die - Digital" sensor temperature is consistently over 80℃.

Currently it is 96℃ with the CPU at 85% idle, all load averages of 2.3.

The lowest I've managed to get it is 49℃ by killing almost everything running. The highest is 103℃, by booting multiple virtual machines. From what I've read, this is 2℃ off the shutdown temperature for the CPUs… and the fans were only running at 3800/4000.

So, is this normal? Have I got a dud MacBook or is iStat Menus to blame?
Can't seem to find out how to read the sensors via command line.

Lets me try to help you to understand what is going on here:

Any third party software uses the already available information from your Mac as designed by Apple that uses thermal diodes attached to different points in the system. Apple has done a lots of work to correctly manage the thermal load already.

The coding and the mathematics to covert the given information correctly in to the Temperature readings outputs by third party software could be tricky, so use it with grain of slat, since it varies a lot from Hardware (diode) + EFI + CPU types from system to system. In English, the third party software's are not always calibrated for your specific system.

Note from Intel:

  Intel® Processors have built-in thermal protection. If the processor
  gets too hot, the built-in protection shuts down the computer. If your
  computer is not over-clocked and is running under the design
  specifications, the built-protection can help prevent damage to your
  system.

High Temperature readings:

If you use a third party software to measure the temperature or the Extensible Firmware Interface (EFI) readings, contact the software vendor to ensure the software is validated to work with your processor.

If you still want to know more or you see weird Temperature reading, please go to Intel web site and look for your specific CPU specifications. It can not be hotter outside then inside since the CPU is the source of heat, otherwise your computer will just shut down initiated by Intel's CPU internal protection.

However, if that happens (the shutdown by the CPU), then you need to repair your cooling system (fans + heatsinks ect.)

So I just looked up at Intel for my Intel Core i5 (1.8 Ghz)
and it shows Maximum temp to be 105 Degree Celsius and it has the build in thermal protection.

I have installed Mac Fan Control and set fans to start when CPU Diode temp is at 60. I think it helps a bit.


Why do my iPad and iPhone send *two* notifications for every gmail I receive? Every time I get an email, I hear a ping and a vibration on my devices, followed by another about 3 seconds later.

I'm using gmail (through exchange) on both devices.  The only option I can find in settings is to turn 'new mail' notifications on or off.   I do not have other email accounts on the devices, so it's not auto-forwarding to two accounts or anything.

I'd like to get a single ping and or vibration for each message.

You get the notification sound with each push event that results in a new message to any mailbox.

Google likes to send mail to All Mail as well as Inbox, so that is the likely cause of the two push events. You could make a temporary rule to skip the inbox for all messages and test to confirm this is the root cause.  The phone sees them as two messages, because they are in reality two messages arriving at different times to different mailboxes. I don't know a way to mark the All Mail always read, but perhaps the google filters are powerful enough to make this happen on your account.

Until (or if) google changes things to push them all at once, you can enable control over folders/tags in the labels settings. By controlling the Show in IMAP... status,  you should be able to avoid the second ding.

You could also try setting up rules to avoid any one message from hitting more than one folder as an unread message. iOS doesn't ding on sync of read messages, just syncs that change the unread count on a folder.

Lastly, iOS has changed behavior of the mobile mail app in the past to work better with Google mail. It's a common complaint, and could also be fixed with a change to mail on iOS.

At first I thought it was iCloud's push. It is not! In your original iCloud set up it pushed the entire account so you have two of every email account.  Go to settings, email accounts and just delete the doubles.  That's it that's all.


Migration from PC to iMac not working I have my first iMac and cannot get the migration from my PC to work.

I have been told that it is difficult if I have already started using my computer. Can I just start from scratch from when I took the computer out of the box? Can I delete anything I've done and use the migration manager. My emails and my husband's music has transferred? I am not real computer literate so please keep that in mind when answering.

Here is the things you might want to do before wiping the partially set up mac to get back to the automatic migration step described in this other answer

Open the Mac App store and make sure you're signed in to the Apple ID you want to "own" the iLife and iWork apps. Once you've signed in and accepted the license agreement, you can wipe the Mac following this instruction and try the "clean migration" with no user accounts on the Mac to delay/reduce the transfer from PC.
Copy any documents to an external USB drive before erasing things
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204904 - choose the erase install and use Internet Recovery to do the erase with no drives connected.

Also, you get phone support with a new Mac. You can do your best on these steps and then call to get a human to make sure you're on the right track with the erase / migration. https://apple.com/support

On first boot, before configuring anything, you should be given three options. One is to start as a new Mac, one is to restore files from a Time Machine backup, and the third is to use Migration Assistant. Even if you've already started to use your Mac fresh out of the box and downloaded some things, you can still use Migration Assistant. I don't know how to use it, as my PC fried before I could get my hands on a Mac.

To use Migration Assistant (provided you're running Yosemite or El Capitan) you can click the magnifying glass icon in the upper right hand corner, next to your name, and type in "migration". Migration Assistant should be the top hit; press enter and follow the instructions in the dialog box. Hope this helps!


ejabberd admin interface is not open I'm newbie for XMPP/ejabberd. My system is "OS X EL Captain version 10.11.4" and As per my title said, I can't able to open ejabberd admin interface.
When I click on "admin interface" not able to open admin panel.

For more clear look at below Images.

And when I click on "admin interface", display below error message.

I also do internet connect off Because I was thought issue might be problem is with fire-wall but same issue occurred.

If you want to know how can installed "ejabberd" then look at this question.

Can anybody knows the solution then please guide me.

Simply reinstall it and you can get rights to admin section.
it may be problem with config file.
If you have no error message from the installer, you should be set. You can call ejabberd start script to fictionalize
this helped me...

Uninstall and Try Installing Ejabbered 16.06 instead
you can find it in ejabbered archives


Getting VPN to auto-reconnect on connection drop I use the built-in VPN on Mac OS X 10.7.3. It's IPSec, FWIW. From time to time, it disconnects (probably an issue with my corporate server). Is there a way to get it to automatically reconnect? Sometimes I don't notice for a while, which is kinda annoying.

You could use the following AppleScript, save it as an application and set it to be a agent (no dock icon).

This script will setup a VPN connection when there is none. Therefore, it should also reconnect shortly after your connection drops. You can change the interval to check your VPN connection, it's 120 seconds in the script.

on idle
    tell application "System Events"
        tell current location of network preferences
            set myConnection to the service "VPN University"
            if myConnection is not null then
                if current configuration of myConnection is not connected then
                    connect myConnection
                end if
            end if
        end tell
        return 120
    end tell
end idle

I've explained how to set this up in this answer.

The beauty of AppleScripts is that you can do almost anything with it and it's free, the downside is that they are usually not very responsive (polling at a fixed time interval) and lack features only native MAC OS X apps can have. A nice and new VPN auto reconnect app is "VPN Monitor" in the app store, it reconnects instantly the moment a VPN connection drops, is able to reconnect to a different VPN service if the preferred service is down, connects at start-up, keeps track of your downtime and uses a minimum of system resources to run in the background as a statusbar application. VPN Monitor


Why the iPhone doesn't automatically switch 3G off when connected to a wireless network? This doesn't make any sense to me: why the iPhone doesn't automatically switch 3G off when connected to a wireless network?

I always thought iPhone did that since the very beginning and my battery lasted 4–6 hours on average per day. (I can almost swear that I remember Steve Jobs himself telling that in the stage back then)

Then a friend of mine asked me why I don't switch off the 3G when I am in the office to save some battery instead of charging it at my desk so in case I had to get out it was fully charged back again.

So, I tried... Boy, it was a huge difference! My iPhone's battery will last 10–13 hours on average. That means usually I can get back home from work and have my phone still working in my pocket.

Any ideas?

EDIT: my question is about worse battery performance when 3G is enabled. (Even though not supposed to be used) And I believe this isn't related to me, but to any iPhone user really.

Although your iPhone will use WiFi when available, that's only to save your cellular data limit being reached as quickly. Your iPhone keeps the 3G antennas active (while the internet is in use) for the following reasons;

In case you have 'flaky' WiFi; your iPhone will switch between WiFi and cellular without you noticing to keep a reliable connection working source*
In case you leave WiFi range; your iPhone can then immediately switch to cellular and use it right away without any delays.
In case your WiFi network doesn't have a 'proper' internet connection; if your WiFi network can't load certain pages (either because it's configured incorrectly, or because of a fault/security settings) your iPhone will use cellular to load those pages if possible. **

So, to answer your question, the iPhone keeps your 3G connection live while the phone is using the internet in some way so you can have a reliable connection. Your phone will only turn it off automatically when/if the phone is trying to save power.

*I believe the toggle to enable/disable this feature has been removed, but the feature still exists (and remains always on).

**I've seen this happen with those WiFi networks which would make you fill in a form/login before using the connection. The phone would be connected to WiFi, but apps would be using 3G to load new content as I was not yet logged in

As of iOS 9 there’s an option to disable “Wi-Fi Assist” that will effectively disable cellular data usage when connected to a Wi-Fi (or rather when disabled won’t automatically use cellular data to assist poor Wi-Fi connectivity.)

Follow: Settings.app > Cellular > (at the very bottom) Wi-Fi Assist toggle:


How to transfer videos from Mac to iPhone so I can post a video to Instagram? I created a 15 second video on my Mac and want to post it to Instagram.

I've tried converting it to Quicktime with iTunes and adding it to the iPhone that way, but I can't see the video in the Photos on the iPhone.

I've also tried reducing the file size and emailing it to myself and opening the email on the iPhone and downloading the attachment, but it doesn't load it to Photos so I can't access the video anywhere on the phone. I've even tried opening the mail attachment video in a video editor on my iphone, "videoshop," which supposedly saves the video to my Camera roll, but again, I can't see the video in Photos, so I can't upload the video.

Mac is system 10.7.5
iPhone 5 with iOS 8.3

You can use AirDrop to send files from Mac to iPhone. You can read more about it here https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203106

This is good to know but you still would not be able to upload to Instagram from the photos app in iPhone. I don't believe the photos app supports Instagram at all. There are some third party apps that can create a work around but it's pretty labor intensive.


Changing the Finder icon for an external disk formatted as ExFat? I used this web page recipe - Create Your Own Custom Icons in OS X 10.7.5 or Later - for creating a .icns icon set containing a set of icons for an external disk that has been formatted with the ExFat file system.

However, whatever I do, when I drag the .icns file on top of the drive, it just shows a .png dummy icon:

If I erase the drive and reformat it as OS X Journaled, then repeat the process, the icon is shown correctly:

Is there a trick where I can reassign the icon also for an ExFat drive? I plan on using this drive both on a Windows machine and on my MacBook so keeping it as OS X Journaled isn't really an option. I know there are custom software for Windows so that I can read and write OS X file system disks but that's not an option either since I plan on connecting this drive to computers where I cannot really expect the owner to install custom software to use the disk.

And the icon is not that important. It would just be a nice touch.

What I've tried:

Basic .png file (that works on OS X Journaled formatted drive)
Full .icns file (that works on OS X Journaled formatted drive)

So can it be done? If so, how?

This is OS X El Capitan 10.11.4 and the drive is a WD My Passport Air 1TB if if matters.

I do a "Get Info" on the drive. This brings up the info window. To add the icon, I drag and drop the .icns file on the image shown in the upper left corner of the window.

  When I refer to a "drive", what I really mean is a partition located on a physical or virtual drive. Since the partition is ExFAT formatted, the partition can also be referred to as a volume.

Maybe your .icns file is no good. Maybe you should try one of mine. You can download the ones I use here. Or, you can try the free online tool I used to create these .icns files. Go to iconvert icons.

When you drop the .icns file, a copy of this file is renamed .VolumeIcon.icns and placed in the root directory of the drive. For example, if I use a Terminal application window, I can show this file.

Steelhead:~ davidanderson$ diskutil list /dev/disk1
/dev/disk1 (external, physical):
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:     FDisk_partition_scheme                        *4.0 GB     disk1
   1:             Windows_FAT_32 UNTITLED 1              808.2 MB   disk1s1
   2:                 DOS_FAT_32 UNTITLED 2              808.2 MB   disk1s2
   3:               Windows_NTFS UNTITLED 3              808.2 MB   disk1s3
   4:                 DOS_FAT_32 UNTITLED 4              808.2 MB   disk1s5
   5:                 DOS_FAT_32 UNTITLED 5              808.1 MB   disk1s6
Steelhead:~ davidanderson$ mount | grep disk1
/dev/disk1s1 on /Volumes/UNTITLED 1 (msdos, local, nodev, nosuid, noowners)
/dev/disk1s2 on /Volumes/UNTITLED 2 (msdos, local, nodev, nosuid, noowners)
/dev/disk1s3 on /Volumes/UNTITLED 3 (exfat, local, nodev, nosuid, noowners)
/dev/disk1s5 on /Volumes/UNTITLED 4 (msdos, local, nodev, nosuid, noowners)
/dev/disk1s6 on /Volumes/UNTITLED 5 (msdos, local, nodev, nosuid, noowners)
Steelhead:~ davidanderson$ cd "/Volumes/UNTITLED 3"
Steelhead:UNTITLED 3 davidanderson$ ls -l .VolumeIcon.icns
-rwxrwxrwx@ 1 davidanderson  staff  26582 May  5 15:50 .VolumeIcon.icns
Steelhead:UNTITLED 3 davidanderson$

Here is a screen shot from my Desktop.

If you something goes wrong read this:

There must be a cache of volume names to icons buried in OS X. I say this because no matter what combination of reformats, ejects, unmounts and deletes I preform, the same icon reappears. Something like the following is happening:

The  operating system encounters a valid .VolumeIcon.icns file in
the root directory of a partition (volume).
The .VolumeIcon.icns is read in to the cache and associated with
the volume name.
Even if the .VolumeIcon.icns file is changed, the operating system
does not update the cache. (This is one of the bugs!)

If you do the following, you may have a shot at success. I do not guarantee this to be an inclusive list.

Remove the .VolumeIcon.icns (if it exists) from the root folder on
the drive, by following these instructions.  Highlight the drive
(volume) and select "Get Info" from the menu bar. Next, highlight
the icon shown in the upper left of the pop up window. Finally,
from the menu bar, select "Cut". Note: This file is not normally
shown in the Finder, unless you enable the Finder to Show Hidden
Files.
Rename the drive to some name never used before.
Eject the drive and remove from the computer.
If necessary, quit the Disk Utility application.
If necessary, quit the Terminal application.
Close all Finder Windows"
Hold down the option key and right click on the Finder
icon on the Dock. Select "Relaunch".
Connect the drive back into the computer
Drag and drop the .icns files on the icon in the upper left corner
of the "Get Info" window for the drive. It may appear as if
nothing has happened.
(Optional) Verify the .VolumeIcon.icns appears in the root folder
of the partition (volume). This file is not normally shown in the
Finder unless you enable the Finder to Show Hidden Files.
Experienced users can also use the Terminal application to verify
this file exists
Use the Disk Utility application to unmount the partition (volume).
Use the Disk Utility application to mount the partition (volume).

Change the name of the drive will fix it


MacBook Pro Suddenly Goes to Sleep and Will Not Wake Up I have 15-inch, Mid 2010 MacBook Pro running Mac OS X Lion 10.7.5.

It will occasionally (every other day) without warning go to sleep. I can see the sleep indicator on, but otherwise it is completely unresponsive to the keyboard or mouse pad. Pressing cap locks will not even show the green light.

I have noticed this happening

During boot up (so it is not a hot battery issue).
Rendering a PDF
Ejecting an external disk

These symptoms will happen when the laptop is powered by the battery or from the wall outlet.

Ultimately, I have to press the power button for several seconds in order to do a hard reboot.

Are there any suggestions on how to diagnose and remedy issue?

Edit per request from Graham:

Time stamp                Domain                Message                                                                     Duration    Delay
==========                ======                =======                                                                     ========    =====
UUID: DC..
1/5/14 5:50:53 PM MST    sleep                  Clamshell Sleep: Using BATT (Charge:94%)                                    12544 secs
1/5/14 9:19:57 PM MST    wake                   Wake due to EC LID0: Using AC (Charge:100%)                                 1153 secs
1/5/14 9:19:57 PM MST    hibernatestats         hibmode=3 standbydelay=0                                                                wr=21014 ms
Sleep/Wakes since boot:14   Dark Wake Count in this sleep cycle:0

Time stamp                Domain                Message                                                                     Duration    Delay
==========                ======                =======                                                                     ========    =====
UUID: B6..
1/5/14 9:39:10 PM MST    sleep                  Clamshell Sleep: Using AC (Charge:100%)                                     2502 secs
1/5/14 10:20:52 PM MST   wake                   Wake due to EC LID0 EHC2: Using BATT (Charge:99%)
1/5/14 10:20:52 PM MST   hibernatestats         hibmode=3 standbydelay=0                                                                wr=18980 ms
Sleep/Wakes since boot:15   Dark Wake Count in this sleep cycle:0

Time stamp                Domain                Message                                                                     Duration    Delay
==========                ======                =======                                                                     ========    =====
UUID: 9A..
1/8/14 11:01:05 PM MST   sleep                  Clamshell Sleep: Using BATT (Charge:96%)                                    32820 secs
1/9/14 8:08:05 AM MST    wake                   Wake due to EC LID0: Using BATT (Charge:90%)
Sleep/Wakes since boot:1   Dark Wake Count in this sleep cycle:0

Time stamp                Domain                Message                                                                     Duration    Delay
==========                ======                =======                                                                     ========    =====
UUID: 49...
1/9/14 9:51:08 PM MST    sleep                  Clamshell Sleep: Using BATT (Charge:95%)                                    9838 secs
1/10/14 12:35:06 AM MST  wake                   Wake due to EC LID0: Using BATT (Charge:93%)

I had the same issue.. I updated to 10.9.3 and this solved my issue


How can I determine what kept my macbook pro awake until the battery drained? I left my laptop unplugged last night and woke up to 0% battery. This is not usually what happens. Is there a way I can find out, this time or next time, what caused that? I assume something was running that prevented it from going into low power or sleep mode.

Run the following in Terminal:

pmset -g log

You'll be able to check if there was some activity during the night.


Markdown editor with edit and view mode I'm looking for a OS X markdown (or similar) editor that has an edit and a view mode. I want to view the rendered document by default and have an edit mode to change the content. Just in the way most wikis work.

Day One uses edit/view modes but it doesn't let me edit arbitrary text files.

On iOS I found Trunk Notes.

I am not looking for an editor with a preview. I want to see either Markdown or rendering.

I recommend Ulysses if you’re looking for editing and preview in one app.

However, I usually write with iA Writer and use Marked to preview them in Markdown. Use whichever you prefer.

Haroopad, http://pad.haroopress.com
It's great app for markdown.


What's the point of airplane mode on a wifi-only iPad? I know if I toggle Airplane Mode, it will turn wifi and bluetooth on and off-- but I can manually toggle them. On an iPhone or cellular-enabled iPad, airplane mode kills the cell radio. But there's no cell radio in my wifi-only iPad! So what does airplane mode do for me?

It's a feature kept on iOS so that you can quickly turn off both Wifi and Bluetooth.

You may want to conserve power while using apps that don't need a constantly on network connection, such as Kindle.app.


How to change my phone number on Facetime and iMessage? So I have already changed my number on my Apple ID and on my Gmail, but when I log in with my Apple ID on Facetime and iMessage it still has my old phone number.I restarted my phone but still the same.I look forward to your answers and I would really but really appreciate if you can help me!

Remove a phone number from an Apple ID, sign out of FaceTime and Messages on your iPhone:
1. Settings > Messages > Send & Receive. Tap your Apple ID, then tap Sign Out.
2. Settings > FaceTime. Tap your Apple ID, then tap Sign Out.


Making it easier to copy webpage text to the clipboard (in iOS)? I have a web page that updates occasionally with new information (I made it myself - simple HTML page - nothing special).

I regularly have to copy this page to the clipboard on my iOS device to paste its contents into another iOS app. My current strategy is to make it a home screen icon, so I can:

1) Tap it to launch

2) Tap and hold on the text to begin selecting

3) Click 'select all'

4) Click 'copy'.

I am wondering if there are any HTML/JS tricks I can enact on the webpage side, or alternatively any apps/iOS tricks I can do on the client side, that would reduce the number of total clicks/steps involved (anything fewer than the four taps above would be a 'win' for me!). If it helps, I always want to copy the page in its entirety.

This might be too simple an answer, but using an AppleScript or possibly Automator, or both to automate Safari should do the trick, and you could then use cron to schedule the task for you.


Can I turn off 2G support on my iPhone? From the commotion in the last several days/weeks I understood that a fake cell tower intending to play man-in-the-middle uses a 2G connection to avoid the authentication requirement (of the network towards the phone) that's part of 3G and up.I would like to avoid such MITM attacks by turning off the 2G support altogether. I can live with it if my iPhone only uses 3G/4G, and refuses any service when only 2G is available.I am using an iPhone 5S with IOS7.Is there any setting or app I can use for that? (Preferably without jail-breaking my phone, but I know that might be a stretch.)

Johan

Very simple; No way Apple will allow you to do this


Is it ok to let Mac air run 24 full hours? I have a MacBook Air (11-inch, 2011) ,I am now downloading iTuneU courses 24 hours.There is only one app iTunes running,is it ok?

Yes of course. I had my MacBook running for a week once. And as long as you don't do any heavy tasks, such as rendering or video compression, you won't have any overheating issues.

Had a friend rarely switch off his devices when everything turns to Apple, even his Air. Shall be ok to keep it running for couples of hours.


Open AppleWorks spreadsheets in Mac OS X when Numbers won't work I have a number of old AppleWorks spreadsheets that I'm trying to open.  I've tried a number of solutions that I've found while searching for an answer (below), but none of them really get me to where I want to be.  Anyone know of a simple solution?
1. Open in Numbers.app
When I try to open them in Numbers.app, I get the following error.  I think the issue may be that these documents were not made in the final version of AppleWorks (many are so old they were made when it was still called ClarisWorks).

Import Error
The document was created with an unsupported version of AppleWorks.

2. Use an old Mac to convert them to the most recent version of AppleWorks, then use Numbers.app
Unfortunately I don't have an old Mac to do this with.
3. Use some hacky solution to extract text from the files
I was able to open the file with text editors, but I'm aiming to keep the formatting and functionality and not spend lots of time parsing text.

These files will open just fine in LibreOffice. Mac OS X (tested on OS X 10.11.5) does recognize that each of the files I want to open is an "AppleWorks Document" (as can be seen in the "Kind" column in Finder.app), but it does not know that LibreOffice can open it.

After you've downloaded and installed LibreOffice, there are a few more steps to get them open:

Right click on the AppleWorks document you want to open.
From the contextual menu's "Open With" submenu, select "Other…".

This will open the "Choose Application" window.  In that window:

From the "Enable" pulldown menu, select "All Applications".
If you want LibreOffice to automatically open this document going forward, check "Always Open With".
Select LibreOffice.  You'll get a warning staying that "It's not known if this application can open" the document. Don't worry about that!
Click "Open".

You should now be looking at a well-formatted spreadsheet in LibreOffice. It looks like the original formatting has been maintained; the spreadsheets I opened have colors, italic, bold, etc.

Once you've got it open in LibreOffice, from the "File" menu select "Save As" and you'll have the option to save it in any number of supported formats, such as Excel. Once that's done, your AppleWorks spreadsheet data has been brought into the modern world.

If you always want AppleWorks docs to open with LibreOffice, follow these instructions.

LibreOffice works great on old Appleworks spreadsheets. I had to open them directly (rather than drag-and-drop), a tiny issue. Thanks, all.


How to move files from a lot of folders into a single folder without moving the folders themselves? Let's say I have the following files and folders.

High-Resolution Pics (Folder)
----WashingtonDC002.jpg
----WashingtonDC004.jpg

Low-Resolution Pics (Folder)
----WashingtonDC000.jpg
----WashingtonDC001.jpg
----WashingtonDC003.jpg

WashingtonDC005.jpg

WashingtonDC006 (Folder)
----WashingtonDC006.jpg
----UnimportantFile.txt

WashingtonDC007.jpg

WashingtonDC008.jpg

WashingtonDC009 (Folder)
----WashingtonDC009.jpg
----UnimportantFile.txt

I want to move all the images that are in the WashingtonDC folders into High Resolution Pics without taking all of the unimportant files along with it, and all the WashingtonDC images that aren't in WashingtonDC folders into Low-Resolution Pics. How would I go about doing this through the terminal?

This is what the final result would look like.

High-Resolution Pics (Folder)
----WashingtonDC002.jpg
----WashingtonDC004.jpg
----WashingtonDC006.jpg
----WashingtonDC009.jpg

Low-Resolution Pics (Folder)
----WashingtonDC000.jpg
----WashingtonDC001.jpg
----WashingtonDC003.jpg
----WashingtonDC005.jpg
----WashingtonDC007.jpg
----WashingtonDC008.jpg

This is what you're looking for ?

mv *.jpg Low-Resolution\ Pics/ Moves all '.jpg' files in current directory to low res folder.

mv WashingtonDC00*/*.jpg ./High-Resolution\ Pics/ Moves all '.jpg' files in folders beginning with 'WashingtonDC00' into High res folder.

Files before:

.
├── High-Resolution\ Pics
│   ├── WashingtonDC002.jpg
│   └── image0.jpg
├── Low-Resolution\ Pics
├── WashingtonDC005.jpg
├── WashingtonDC006
│   ├── WashingtonDC006.jpg
│   ├── WashingtonDC0061.jpg
│   ├── WashingtonDC007.jpg
│   ├── WashingtonDC008.jpg
│   └── rubbish.txt
├── WashingtonDC007.jpg
└── WashingtonDC009
    ├── WashingtonDC009.jpg
    └── rubbish.txt

Files after:

.
├── High-Resolution\ Pics
│   ├── WashingtonDC002.jpg
│   ├── WashingtonDC006.jpg
│   ├── WashingtonDC0061.jpg
│   ├── WashingtonDC007.jpg
│   ├── WashingtonDC008.jpg
│   ├── WashingtonDC009.jpg
│   └── image0.jpg
├── Low-Resolution\ Pics
│   ├── WashingtonDC005.jpg
│   └── WashingtonDC007.jpg
├── WashingtonDC006
│   └── rubbish.txt
└── WashingtonDC009
    └── rubbish.txt

You can use the cp command on the terminal.  cd to the folder you want to copy to. then type cp ../high_res_folder_name*.jpg *  The other files you may have to do individually.

You can also just drag and drop using the finder.


Will using my iPad as an external monitor negatively affect it's lifespan? I'm using AirDisplay to allow me to use my iPad as an external monitor for about 10 hours a day. I have it plugged into my Mac the entire time (so the battery doesn't completely die).

Will this negatively affect it's lifespan? I'm sort of expecting my iPad to last for 5 or 10 years at least if I treat it well (is that realistic?), but, will this cause it to burn out in the next year or two?

What I'm specifically worried about is:

The display could somehow stop working (would pixels burn out? Would it not be able to get as bright? What specifically bad will happen from over-using the display?)
The battery could go to crap (I'm worried I'll get to the point where I'd have to continually charge it and it wouldn't be able to hold any meaningful charge)

With regard to your question about a realistic lifespan:

I would define the life expectancy of any device as however long its user can use it for its intended purpose. Which will cease to be the case when something physically breaks or when functionality is phased out (e.g. AirDisplay functionality is removed in a future update). It is impossible to predict if and when either of these things will happen to your iPad in the next few years. There are simply too many factors involved.

In my own experience, we have a 1st gen iPad (bought end of 2010) in the office that is on 24/7 (no screen timeout) as an interactive wall calendar and it is still going strong. On the other hand, one of my coworkers bought a 3rd gen iPad a few months ago and it died after a few weeks of use (he apparently got a lemon). I hope you see my point: There are so many factors involved in determining the lifespan of a certain device that it is impossible to say what will happen to your iPad: Sometimes you get lucky, but there are no guarantees.

With regard to your other 2 questions:

As far as screen life is concerned, 'screen burn' only occurs on the old-style (CRT) monitors. Also, the backlight is provided by LEDs which are supposed to have a pretty long lifespan.
As far as battery life is concerned, there are some pointers at http://www.apple.com/batteries/ipad.html and at http://thehowto.wikidot.com/prolong-battery-lifespan-for-ipad on how to maximize your battery lifespan.

I hope this helps.

You definitely want to use the iPad's battery every few weeks, otherwise it will stop taking charge and fail prematurely. Rechargeable batteries are like a muscle, if you don't use it, it will waste away.


Mac does not restart, shutsdown instead I have several Mac's that when selecting restart they shutdown instead. (MacBookPro 15 SSD, MacBookAir(new), MacBookPro 15) By that I mean, if I select from the menu restart they shutdown and do not turn back on. The only thing I can think of in common about them is that they have FileVault setup and all have Mavericks installed.

What step can I take to figure out how to change the setups so that restart works to actually bring back the system to a running state?

I am very comfortable with terminal, editing files.
I took a look at pmset and don't see anything there.
I tried $ sudo shutdonw -r now  Same result, turns off stays off.

File vault was setup after initial computer setup. I had to enter the password for each user when I turned on FileVault and I saved the key. I have other computer with fileVault setup "i think" the same. I did it on each of them and they work fine.

Since you didn't list enough technical details about how file vault is set up (for instance if you have auto log in enabled or disabled, whether you are using institutional keys or just having one or more users storing the unlocking keys in the user accounts so that the recovery HD can unlock things) - I'll start with some steps to narrow down what might be happening.

First thing is to check if the machines are capable of restarting by storing the file vault key in RAM:

fdesetup supportsauthrestart

If that reports "false" then your hardware might not support restarts with FileVault 2 enabled. If it's true, does the system reboot if you ask for a controlled restart?

fdesetup authrestart

Also, if you're not comfortable with the fdesetup tool, you might want to review some of the helpful articles from Rich Trouton's blog. You'll want to start with an old article getting the basics covered if the current articles assume too much knowledge of how fdesetup works as dealing with file vault from the command line is a lot like the proverbial "sip of water from a fire hose" to many.

Get your mac to the nearest service center and get it repaired because sometimes we cannot deal with every problem sitting at home sometimes technicians are really helpful but still the question here is of software issues so you can try to re install a new mac os that can help you out.


How to clear iPhone's concact cache for text messages? My iPhone (model 5, IOS 6.1.2) seems to have some sort of contact cache which it uses when sending text messages: whenever I am sending a message to someone, I start typing the persone's name in te "to:" field, and the iPhone shows me all the contacts matching the letters I typed; but it shows up also contacts I have deleted long ago, and which I don't want around anymore.

How can I get rid of this?

Is this related to the infamous e-mail cache?

This has been FINALLY fixed in IOS 7. Now you can remove contacts from this cache.

As soon as the unwanted contact pops up while you're typing in the "to:" field, you can tap on a little "i" (probably for "info") icon on its right, and have a menu appear where you can remove the contact, or add it back to your address book if you feel so inclined.

Apparently you have to reset everything. It'll make the phone a "new phone", but I don't know exactly what will happen. I want to do it as well, because I have contacts that I want to just go away; but I'm nervous. I don't want to get rid of all of the contacts! Other than this, I don't know what there is. :/ I'm sorry.


Record video while playing TV on Jio Phone I connect my iPhone to the AUX cable in my car and play TV. This one time I wanted to video record, but when I switch to the video camera, it turns my TV off.

Is there anyway to record video on iPhone 6 while playing TV, so that the TV shows is in the video?

Check out Record and Listen. Jamcam is great, but only records videos for up to 15 seconds.

WhatsApp that’s what I use I just send to my old phone number find something like that or just send to a friend who doesn’t Mind getting random vids from you


How frequently is Photo Stream synced to Aperture? I've been experiencing considerable delays between the time I take a photo and the time it shows up in Aperture's synced Photo Stream. Specifically, the photos show up on other devices that consume the iCloud Photo Stream, but Aperture seems to lag them substantially.

Is there a way to force Aperture to refresh its Photo Stream so that it matches the Photo Stream on iOS devices (and thus, presumably, its state in iCloud).

Normally Photo Stream should sync across devices within seconds, so long as the device that took the photo is on WiFi. However, I've also run into cases where Aperture's PhotoStream folder lags in showing recent images. When this happens I've been able to fix the issue by disabling and then re-enabling Photo Stream in Aperture's settings. It will re-sync everything in the Photo Stream folder, and new pictures show up almost instantly.

Hope this helps.

And my previous answer was also responding to your question's title: there is no frequency for any of iCloud's services, it is a push-only service (most of it I think). So a sync will only happen if there is change.

And so far, I haven't seen any command or buttons or web page to help reset any of iCloud's services. Had a problem today with a friend's calendars, had to use a backup of iCal pre-iCloud: stop the sync, erase all calendars on iCloud's web site, same on his computer, then restore with the pre-iCloud backup, then start sync again. So either Apple believe there is no need for a reset switch (which would be incredibly stupid just looking at the extreme complexity involved behind the thing), or they haven't implemented one yet. I guess future will tell. For now, it looks like we're stuck at doing this manually...


Why can't my MacBook Air run Software Update? One of the first things that I tried to do when I got my new MacBook Air out of the box was upgrade iTunes to 10.5 (through Software Update). It downloaded the files (four different updates in total), verified data, then started to write the files, at which point it stopped and said that it couldn’t complete the update.

Since then I’ve also downloaded the .dmg file for the iTunes upgrade and for the Lion 10.7.2 combo.  My .dmgs can't be verified though; I get an invalid checksum error. I’ve downloaded them a bunch of times too just in case they were corrupted.

Then thinking that because it’s a new machine, I can just refresh the OS and start again, I tried the cmd+r boot and tried to just reinstall and it said:

  Can’t install the additional components needed to install Mac OS X.

This is an ancient question (bumped by Community♦), but invalid checksum doesn't have anything to do with admin privileges, it is a bad download.

Since you tried multiple times you are either not getting the file despite the multiple tries, or the original file you are downloading is not complete.

I would look for another way to get the update.

Have you tried checking if you are an admin user of the system? Did you set an admin password when you first booted the system?

You can check this by opening the Terminal app (press Cmd+Space to call Spotlight and type "Terminal" there or go to Applications -> Utilities -> Terminal) and enter

sudo ls

You will be asked for a password. Enter the password for your user.

If it doesn't give an error message, you are the admin of the system and the error could be something else (go to Apple Store asap, you can get a LOT of help from them in resolving such issues).

If it gives you an error, that could just be the root cause of your problem. Open the System Preferences app and go to Users and Groups under the System section. There, select your user and tick the "Allow user to administer this computer" option and restart/log out and log back in.

This should resolve your problem. Else call/email/go to the Apple Store and get their help (for free).

Silly note- When I read just the question, I thought you are a tech admin and are having a problem in your organization as an MBA grad who is using a Mac is not able to install updates on his machine! :)


Can I sort the songs in a playlist on my iPhone? Is it possible to change the order of songs in a playlist on the iPhone?  For example, if they are originally sorted alphabetically by "Artist", can I change the song order of the playlist so that the songs are sorted by "Date Added"?

Im sorry, but in my knowlege there is no way to change the sorting in the way that you describe. The only close solution that i know of would be to edit the playlist manually, by pressing the "Edit" button in the top of the playlist, press and hold the three gray stripes on the right side of a chosen song title, and move it to its intended location within the playlist.

Click the settings button in the bottom left hand corner next to 'new playlist'. Click 'copy to play order' whilst your phone is plugged in :)


Best way to merge mp4 files Got a bunch of .mp4 videos (info shows H.264 Video + AAC Audio) that are chapters of a larger video.

I'd like to merge them, but not sure which is the best way.  I don't have Quicktime Pro, but I'll get it if that's the best way to do this.

Edit: Just to clariify this is Mac OSX 10.6 I'm on.

You don’t specify your OS but if you have OS/X, then you probably have iLife, then you have iMovie. Merging all that with iMovie is extremely trivial. Just import the videos to iMovie and compose the final movie using all the parts you want to use.

Effects, Transitions and Captions are a bonus ;)

Well, I'm late to the game but the best way IMHO would be to just use mp4joiner and be done with it.

It just does one thing, merging mp4 files, and does it really well and simple. Also: Free and open source and also working on Linux and even Windows.


Is it possible to run Snow Leopard on a LATE 2011 MacBook Pro? I want to buy a new MacBook Pro, from Apple. However I want to run Snow Leopard instead of Lion.

I did some Google searches and found a few success stories of people who got SL to run on their early-2011 MBPs. I didn't find much of any experiences of people doing the same on a late-2011 MBP though, so I'm wondering (and really hoping!) if it's possible?

I'd like to confirm that it IS possible to run Snow Leopard on a late 2011 MBP 15" without ANY FLAW although AppleCare technicians told me that it is not possible ! I did it on mine (CTO, 2.2 GHz i7) bought in fev. 2012 and had not the slightest issue since.

But from Apple side it is NOT recommended and certainly NOT supported . - But hey, my love and I have some scientific software and also Adobe products that only run smoothly on Snow Leopard and all our other Mac's in the family are on SL so I had to give it a try to stay productive. And personally, I'm not really happy with Lion, but that's an other story. - For me it's just roaring and definitely not the 'King' of the MacOs as the name suggests...

So here is what I did :

As I couldn't lay my hands on a original MBP 15" Install-DVD from last summer (10.6.7) which should allow you to boot the MBP15" directly from it, I did a clean 10.6.7 install with my iMac 27" (iMac11,1 - i7 2.8 GHz) on an external hard drive starting from a 10.6.3 iMac install DVD and applying all the updates up to 10.6.7.
Then I formatted my MBP internal drive in target disk mode and created 3 partitions (SL, Lion, Bootcamp).
Using CarbonCopyCloner I cloned the clean SL installation one the first partition of the MBP, then disconnected the laptop and booted in SL.
There was one little glitch with the splash screen resolution (not full screen) but nothing serious.
Now I ran the 10.6.8 combo update that I downloaded before cloning and did all the software updates and another reboot.
That done SL runs now without any problem - not one incompatibility issue in one month (would have been surprised because there were no major hardware changes from early to late 2011 MBP15").
As next step I rebooted the MBP holding the alt-command-R keys to start from the Apple servers and did a new Internet install of Lion on the second partition.
And last I installed Windows 7 on the third partition reformatting it using NTFS (be careful to choose the right partition - by the way there is a fourth partition : the rescue partition created by Lion you don't want to touch).
   Once Win7 installed I ran the Bootcamp Assistant and did all updates.

And so now we have a nice triple boot MBP15" allowing us to use all the software we need without the slightest problem. You could probably even try a quadruple boot adding a Linux partition...

But be careful! I wouldn't bet that this method works for all new MBP and MBA so you want to make sure your model ran with SL back in summer 2011 and had no major hardware changes before trying! You can also test booting it first from an external drive with the clean install on it.

I neither do know if my method worked because the iMac 27" and the MBP15" both have a i7 Quad Core.

that's it, have fun!

I would recommend a triple boot - SL, (Mountain, etc) Lion - Bootcamp for Windows XP - 8 as recommended to me by a member of Virgin Media staff. It is the option I'm going for and would recommend. I might even get Windows to boot of a second HD installed in place of the CD drive.


Apache keeps saying: You configured HTTP(80) on the standard HTTPS(443) port! I have configured an SSL web site using the macOS Server app (version 5.3). When I examine the Apache log, I see this message (twice):

 [ssl:warn] [pid 4120] AH01916: Init: (mydomain.net:443) You configured HTTP(80) on the standard HTTPS(443) port!

I have not made any manual modifications to the Apache config file. I tried deleting the site, then stopping and restarting the web server, and finally re-adding the site from scratch, but the warning continues to show up in the log.

What is wrong and should I care?

Check the configuration file of your website for "SSLEngine off". In my case, this setting had been changed by the upgrading process. Changing that line to "SSLEngine on" solved the issue.


How do I edit bash shell terminal history? I entered a password in a command line pro or in a terminal window by mistake and do not want to remove my whole history. My shell is bash.
How do I edit my bash history in Mac OS X?

Editing the .bash_history is just a matter of opening the file with an editor. There are a couple of ways you could achieve this.

In the Terminal just type vi ~/.bash_history, then edit the file as you want, and save. This option could be tricky, if you're not used to vi, of course.
Make the file visible by following these instructions, for instance, open it as any other file, modify it, and save.
In the Terminal just type open -e ~/.bash_history. This command will open the file with TextEdit, you can choose any other text editor, of course. Modify the file and save.

For the changes to be noticeable just restart the bash.

There are several histories for example bash and zsh. You can do this with nano. To do this, simply open the terminal
With this you edit the bash history
nano $HOME/.bash_history

With this you edit the standard zsh history
nano $HOME/.zsh_history

If you want, you can do the whole thing using TextEdit.
Bash:  open -t $HOME/.bash_history
Zsh:   open -t $HOME/.zsh_history


Upgrade and jailbreak 8.1 -> 8.4 I have an iPhone 4s. Currently, iOS 8.1 is installed, but it isn't jailbroken. When my device is connected to iTunes, it says I can update to iOS 8.4.1.

What is the correct way to get a jailbroken version of iOS 8.4 onto my phone? Is it possible?

Yes, not only is it possible to upgrade and jailbreak, it's very easy.

Updating to iOS 8.4

Install the latest version of iTunes on your computer.
Tap here to download the iOS 8.4 .ipsw file (operating system).
Plug your device into your computer.
In iTunes, select your device.
In the Summary pane use the following on the Check for Update box.

Windows: Shift + Click
Mac: Option + Click

Select the .ipsw file and update.

Jailbreaking iOS 8.4

Download the TaiG jailbreaking software.
Connect your device to your computer using the USB cable.
Temporarily Disable Passcode from Settings > Touch ID & Passcode.
Temporarily turn off Find my iPhone from Settings > iCloud > Find my iPhone.
On Windows, launch the jailbreaking application as an Administrator. To do this, right click on the executable file and select the “Run as Administrator” option.
The software will take some time to detect your device. Once you confirm that it is showing the correct firmware version, deselect the 3K Assistant 2.3.0 (TaiG’s App Store), just below Cydia 1.1.18.
Click on the green Start button to proceed.
After the jailbreak is complete, your device will reboot automatically, and you should see the Cydia icon on the Home screen.


Use Mac OS X dictation on a file? In Mountain Lion, Mac OS X can use its dictation/voice recognition to turn your speaking into text.

Suppose I have an audio file of my voice speaking. Is there a way to use this dictation ability to turn that audio file into a text file?

I suppose the brute force solution would be to plug headphones into the audio port and hold them up to the microphone. Is there a more software-based solution more analogous to Unix pipes?

You can install Soundflower. It's a great utility that creates virtual input and output devices. So you could route QuickTime player, for example, as the input for the dictation.
http://cycling74.com/soundflower-landing-page/

Please note that the Soundflower solution will not work in Mavericks: the system mutes all sound when the dictation is on. Even the sound that goes into Soundflower.


What's the MacOS equivalent for Ctrl+Shift+V? If you use the keyboard shortcut Control + Shift + V on Windows, it usually pastes the text from the clipboard without formatting.

Is there an equivalent shortcut for macOS?

Not all apps support this (MS Office, I'm looking at you) but many do including Apple's Apps.

Though is not without formatting Per Se. It is actually Paste and Match Style and you do it with:

  ShiftCommandOptionv

If you are using a particular app that doesn't show that option, you can create a new service using Automator and attribute a different shortcut for that function. Let me know if that is your case.


How does macOS get "pretty" hostnames in Network view? In computer networking, "hostnames" are limited to alphanumeric characters, with dashes (no whitespace or other punctuation).
However, when I open the "Network" in Finder...

I can see some devices (usually macOS) show up with spaces, punctuation, and UTF-8 characters in the name:

Ultimately, I'm looking to have the Raspberry Pi on my network show up with a pretty name. However, in my searching on how to do this, I'm finding I'm not even clear on how macOS gets these pretty names to show up. Searching for this yields too many results of articles explaining to people how to change the hostname of their mac, which I don't need help with.
On my Raspberry Pi, I can run hostnamectl and set the "pretty" name, but that doesn't seem to affect anything.
Anyone know how this is achieved?

I think that macOS uses the command line program arp to scan the devices on the local network
Enter arp -a in the terminal


Ethernet and Airport Problems We have one canon copier machine which is connected to our LAN router via Ethernet cable. Currently, we are connecting to the Internet using a different router. To work with the printer, I need to manually configure the Ethernet connection as follows.

Ip Address: 192.168.1.19
Subnetmask: 255.255.255.0
Router: 192.168.1.1

When set with the above settings and connected to both the Ethernet network and the Airport (Internet) network, I can print, but I cannot browse the Internet anymore.
Could this be caused by an ip conflict ?

I can setup like this in windows and can use both printer and Internet at the same time. Should I use the same router for both Internet and LAN connections?  Is there any way to solve this?

I'm guessing here, but it your network settings may have the ethernet interface prioritized above the AirPort (this is the default setting), meaning that when both are connected it'll try to reach the internet through the ethernet connection.  You can check this easily be looking at the order the network "services" are listed in the sidebar of the Network system preference pane.  If Ethernet is prioritized above AirPort, change it by selecting Set Service Order from the action (gear) pop-up menu below the service list, then dragging AirPort above Ethernet.  Note that you need to click the Apply button for the change to take effect.

Got the Network preferences pane in System preferences. Drag Airport to the top of the list.


How does the hardware manage to save the current workspace state so efficiently? Basically, how does the system save every state in the workspace (windows, desktops, open programs etc) when you do a restart ? Does that affect the efficiency of the software in the long run ?

For example, when I do a restart in windows I know that the laptop restarts completely. Resetting the hardware/software states etc. However, a restart on the macbook pro is like a hibernation in windows, how do they do that ? Is the power to the RAM not cut in the restart process ?

EDIT

There seems to be a clash in responses down there .. Is the image cleared on reboot or not ?

When you restart a Mac it is the same as restarting a Windows machine as far as clearing out the contents of RAM. The difference is when you log in the state of all of the running apps is saved when they quit so they open to the same place they were. This is dependent on how well the application is written. Apps where less attention was paid to saving state don't come back to exactly where they were. Apple apps are very good at this so it appears as if they were never quit.

The "sleep image" takes a a snapshot of the state of your computer at all times, and stores it in a file the size of your actual ram.  During Boot or restart, this image is searched for for restore, unless you uncheck restore windows when you restart or shut down.

Its just another process in the booting phases.


Upgrade os snow leopard to mountain lion without time machine My OSX is 10.6.8 and i want to upgrade to the last lion mountain version but i dont have any external disc drives, so i am not able to do a backup with the time machine.
Is it very risky to do the upgrade without the time machine backup?
Tanks,

Rule: Always back up at least your own document, photos etc — or your whole User Directory, if you've got the space - before any big changes.

You don't necessarily need to backup the OS — though a disk clone onto an external USB, made with SuperDuper or CarbonCopyCloner, is an instant rescue, right at hand, in the event of a crash or data loss, as well as another Startup Disk from which to repair your hard disk.

If you've got access to an OS install image, download or disks, in the event the upgrade doesn't go well and you need to downgrade, you don't need a clone (though it's easier) but just a copy of whatever you don't want to lose.

Related Rule: Always routinely back up / copy to somewhere else anything you don't want to lose.

You don't need Time Machine. It's just one method, one kind of external drive.

I use Arc, for example, which backs up what I tell it to (to very cheap storage using A3) every night, silently, from the menubar. I also clone every few weeks to a small USB external.

Another inexpensive way is to copy / backup to a flash stick - mine holds 16GB, which is enough for my work. A photographer or video person would of course would need much larger backup and storage.

It's a broad subject — but just don't mess with big changes "unprotected." Data loss happens.

Save your data to DropBox, that's one easy step.

Not really? While it is always best to have a backup, as long as you have enough free space on your hard drive it should work.


Major difficulty restoring Time Machine backups/accessing .sparsebundle on newer Mac Mini Alright so here's my issue.  I've searched the web for quite some time and hopefully I can find some better info here.

I used to have a Time Machine that was set to backup an older Macbook Pro.  The Macbook Pro and TM both are dead, but I have saved the hard drive out of the TM.  I now have a newer Mac Mini.

So I'm attempting to somehow access the files located on the old TM drive by connecting it through a dock to my Mac Mini, but can't seem to get that to work.  The .sparsebundle file located on the drive is shown with a red circle with white bar icon, and I have no access or ability to double click and open the sparse bundle.

Is there a way I can change the permissions on this file to be able to open it? I'm completely at a loss here of what to do.

I'm fairly confident all of my data is located in the .sparsebundle.  Finder shows the 2TB drive has over 1.3TB used.  I also tried to verify disk in disk utility and it said the drive was fine.

Update
So I managed to just right click the lock icon on this sparsebundle file and change permissions to read only.  Now when I try to double click the .sparsebundle, it tells "Image not recognized".  In disk utility, this sparsebundle appears in the left, with a volume underneath it called "Time Machine 3".  I cannot run verify/repair on the .sparsebundle itself, but I can on the Time Machine 3 after mounting it, and it runs and says the disk is ok.  The disk pops up and I can navigate to it in Finder, but this still doesn't allow me to access my files and folders saved on it. -__-

It seems like all of the actual data is stored in some cryptic "bands" folder.

Time Machine backups cannot be browsed in Finder. You must view them through Time Machine.
If you are using a computer that is different from the one where the backup was made, there are additional steps. The Time Machine - Troubleshooting page explains further.

Time Machine keeps the backups for each Mac separate, and normally only shows the ones for the Mac it's running on (selected in the Time Machine Preferences window), even if there are other backups of the same or a different Mac on the same or different disk/partition.
To see these "other" backups, you need the Browse Other Backup Disks or (Browse Other Time Machine Disks on Snow Leopard or Leopard) option.  It's available by Alt/Option-clicking the Time Machine icon in your Menubar, or by control-clicking (right-clicking) the Time Machine icon in your Dock.
You'll see a selection screen showing all the mounted disks/partitions that have Time Machine backups on them.  Select the one you want, click Use Selected Disk, and you'll be taken to the normal "Star Wars" display, where you should see all the backups on that disk/partition.
You may not be able to restore such items normally (to their original location);  if not, you'll need to restore them to an alternate location per Frequently Asked Question #16.

Double-click on the .sparsebundle file. This will mount it like an external disk:

Then, open the Backups.backupdb folder. This reveals a lot of folders like this:

This is a problem, right? Well, actually, no. Because if you scroll down to the bottom, there is an alias titled "Latest", like this:

Opening the alias will take you to your most recent backup. Just go through the list of folders and copy all of the files you want.

Let me know if you have any problems with this or want some help!


iMac running High Sierra is very slow — photoanalysisd can't be killed? My iMac running High Sierra has become painfully slow.
I suspect photoanalysisd, as it's using a lot of CPU time, but I can't figure out how to get rid of it.
There's at least one other question (What is "photoanalysisd" and why is it using 77% of my CPU?) here about photoanalysisd, but my scenario is different and none of the suggestions in the other thread were helpful to me.
Looking in the Console log, I see odd errors for photoanalysisd, e.g.:
"seekAndRead -- Input/output error"
"error: (266) I/O error for database -- CLSBusinessCategoryCache.sqlite.  SQLite error code:266, 'not an error' errno:5"
"error: -executeRequest: encountered exception = I/O error for database at ... CLSBusinessCategoryCache.sqlite.  SQLite error code:266, 'not an error' errno:5"

Error code "not an error" -- huh?
Using the Terminal, I've tried all of the following:
sudo launchctl remove com.apple.photoanalysisd
sudo launchctl kill -TERM gui/$UID/com.apple.photoanalysisd
launchctl disable gui/$UID/com.apple.photoanalysisd
launchctl kill -STOP gui/$UID/com.apple.photoanalysisd
launchctl kill -TERM gui/$UID/com.apple.photoanalysisd

BUT photoanalysisd is still running, according to the Activity Monitor. Even after I issue commands to kill the process(!?), it's still there. Of course it also comes back when I restart, and slows the machine horribly again.
First question, then: why don't these commands get rid of photoanalysisd?
Next, I have tried starting in safe mode, but it makes no difference: the iMac is still unusable, until I issue commands to kill photoanalysisd.
Also, the screen updates are incredibly slow in safe mode. The desktop appears very slowly and is painted in bands like venetian blinds opening up from the bottom. Never seen this before.
Again, there is nothing in the Activity Monitor that is obviously eating up CPU or memory. Activity Monitor consistently reports over 90% idle, though the system is beachballing constantly.
Finally, I have already re-installed High Sierra once, but it made no difference.
I really don't care if the Photos app does the person recognition thing or not. I just want my Mac to be useable again.
Any suggestions?
EDIT: 25 days later, I still have no solution to this. My basic question about photoanalysisd (above) remains unanswered.

If you use iCloud  photos and sync with another device, you can turned off the photos sync on Mac. In case you go to turn it back on and it gives storage full error, do as suggested in download iCloud photo to mac OS X Yosemite 10.10.3 in second paragraph.

However this will bring the problem back if you would want to use photos later. So best shot can be leaving it on overnight by disabling sleep in System Preferences and keeping it plugged in. This might give it enough time to complete the analysis.

Welcome to Ask Different. This is just a guess but my Mac was running slowly and began "beachballing" a lot. I couldn't figure out the cause so I restarted my mac in safe mode. It worked fine when I did that. That made me think it was an app I had in my login items. I removed a few of the login items and the machine returned to normal. I don't know which login item it was. Probably a 3rd party app.