How to restore disabled iPad not visible in Finder on Catalina? This is similar to
"iPad is disabled, connect to iTunes"

I have a disabled ipad. Music in 10.15.1 does not see the device.
What recorse do I have to either get to touchpad or reset to factory settings?

It's not in finder either(I've just upgraded to 10.15.2).

I gave up and recycled that $400 doorstop.
Thank you apple. But no thanks for bricking my 4 quids.


Low-resolution icons displayed in Dock and Launchpad Since about a week I have some icons in the Dock and in the Launchpad (e.g.: AppStore, Mission Control) with low-res icons.

However if I start the app (in this case App Store), the correct (high-res) icon is displayed:

After quitting the application, the low-res icon will be displayed again.

I have the same symptoms for a handful of apps (mainly Apple applications).

What's the cause of this, and how can this be fixed to ensure high-res icons are shown?

Cheekily adding this as an answer based on a comment above as the commenter didn't include it.

The cause appears to be a mystery, but if you remove the icon from the dock (just drag it away until you get the vanishing smoke animation), and re add the icon (run the app, right click on the dock icon and click Keep, or drag the icon back in from the finder) to get the full resolution icon for any app that is doing this.  It's a workaround that doesn't explain the issue, but should be good enough.

just go to ~/library/cache
and delete everything

restart the computer....

(always backup before)

you can also try this using a cache cleaner app such as
http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/9503/lion-cache-cleaner


Can I use Kingston RAM in a MacBook Pro? I have MacBook Pro 15-inch, early-2011. I want to upgrade my RAM from 4 GB (2+2) to 6 GB (2+4). Can I use Kingston RAM (Kingston 4GB DDR3 1333 Bus SOD)? Or is there specific RAM made for Macs?

I upgraded the memory in my Early 2011 MacBook Pro from 4 GB (2x2) to 8 Gb (2x4) using the Crucial site, and haven't had any problems at all.

For the record, I also did the same with a brand new iMac, swapping out both memory modules with 2x4 GB from Crucial.

It worked out to be about 1/3 of the price that Apple charges for the same memory.

Be careful with 1333 Mhz RAM - I learned the hard way that my MBP expects 1066mhz and won't recognize two sticks of 1333 (one stick of 1333 and one of 1066 works b/c it downgrades the speed to the slowest stick).  Still trying to figure out how to use both sticks of 1333.


How can I adjust the apparent color temperature of my display in OS X? I really like f.lux, which is an app that automatically adjusts the display's apparent color temperature according to the time of day and location (so that the temperature is in sync with Sun).

How to set the color temperature manually? I.e. without f.lux?

Sometimes I'd like to have "tungsten" (2700 K) colors during the day or morning, which would require fiddling with the location coordinates in f.lux. Sadly, there's no "manual mode" that I'm aware of.

I'm looking for a OS X native / software based solution, that would allow me to set white point below 4500 °K, which is the minimum that Color Calibrator can set. Is this even possible?

When using the Displays section of your System Preferences, if you calibrate it, select show advanced options, one of the windows is this:
 which to me looks like the white points you were looking for, be sure to uncheck "Use native white point" if you want to manually edit it.

A cool way is to let f.lux do the work http://stereopsis.com/flux/ It adjusts your screen colour temp. with the time of the day! Give it a try!


How to launch a GUI application in another user's graphical session? I'm trying to figure out how to launch a GUI application as another user that's logged in interactively, in that user's graphical session.

For example, say I have two users, foo and bar. Both are logged in, but the current interactive user is foo. I'd like to launch Calculator.app as user "bar", so that when I fast user switch to bar, I find the Calculator window is open in bar's session.

Here's what I've tried that doesn't work:

sudo -u bar /Applications/Calculator.app/Contents/MacOS/Calculator

This launches Calculator.app as bar, but the window opens in foo's graphical session.

sudo -u bar osascript -e "tell application \"Calculator\" to activate"

Same effect.

sudo -u bar open "/Applications/Calculator.app"

Launches Calculator as foo, not bar.

launchctl asuser [uid of bar] [any of the above commands]

Same effect.

Is there any way to accomplish this? I'm willing to entertain all manner of possible solutions, including bash scripting, AppleScript, writing a Core Foundation or Cocoa program, and so on. In my situation, any program or script could execute as any user, including root.

Note: I'm aware that it's possible using remote Apple Events, but I can't use that since in the situation I'm trying to do this I have no guarantee that "Remote Apple Events" will be enabled in Sharing preferences.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

What you want to achieve is possible but difficult. You need to launch the application within the appropriate user session. For security reasons, crossing the user session divide is difficult.

You need a process already running in the other user's session to listen to your request and launch the application on your behalf.

launchd's bsexec

Thankfully, recent versions of launchd have this ability; although Apple engineers have not recommended its general use. Use the bsexec option in launchctl to target the appropriate user session:

 bslist [PID | ..] [-j]
          This prints out Mach bootstrap services and their respective states. While the namespace
          appears flat, it is in fact hierarchical, thus allowing for certain services to be only avail-
          able to a subset of processes. The three states a service can be in are active ("A"), inactive
          ("I") and on-demand ("D").

          If [PID] is specified, print the Mach bootstrap services available to that PID. If [..] is
          specified, print the Mach bootstrap services available in the parent of the current bootstrap.
          Note that in Mac OS X v10.6, the per-user Mach bootstrap namespace is flat, so you will only
          see a different set of services in a per-user bootstrap if you are in an explicitly-created
          bootstrap subset.

          If [-j] is specified, each service name will be followed by the name of the job which regis-
          tered it.

 bsexec PID command [args]
          This executes the given command in the same Mach bootstrap namespace hierachy as the given
          PID.

 bstree [-j]
          This prints a hierarchical view of the entire Mach bootstrap tree. If [-j] is specified, each
          service name will be followed by the name of the job which registered it.  Requires root priv-
          ileges.

The recommended approach is to write a launchd job ticket and restart the Mac - or ask the user to log-out and back in again.

Cause of the Problems

The problems stem from the application being connected to the wrong WindowServer process. Each user session has a separate WindowServer; this process handles the user interface. Your earlier methods place the ownership of the process with the right user but connected to your own WindowServer process.

This problem is mentioned in the Daemons and Agents technical note from Apple.

Experience

I know this from personal experience. For Power Manager, I wrote pmuser to exist within each user session. pmuser listens to our daemon and handles the per-user launches and commands. Despite our daemon having root authority, we still needed a per-user process to work reliably within user sessions.

Simple

  sudo su name_of_user

then execute commands normally.


Keyboard shortcut CAPSLOCK-SHIFT-TAB not working in Chrome on external keyboard after CAPSLOCK modified to CONTROL On my Macbook Pro with High Sierra 10.13.3, I have an Apple external keyboard. I used System Preferences > Keyboard > Modifier Keys... to make CAPSLOCK into another CONTROL key:

With this configuration, I can move one Chrome tab to the right with CAPSLOCK-TAB, very convenient.

However, moving one tab to the left with CAPSLOCK-SHIFT-TAB doesn't work on the external keyboard.

It does work on the laptop's built-in keyboard, oddly.

This is not Chrome's fault, because I see the same behavior in the Sublime Text app.

you can use Apple's wireless keyboard, that will solve your problem.


How to make MacBook Pro sharing Wi-Fi from iPad? I connected from iPad to MacBook Pro (mid 2012) by USB. I turned on iPad personal hotspot and Internet Sharing works.

Now I want to share my MacBook Pro's internet connection too. I made the following setting but it is not working for me. In Wi-Fi options I set the following: Channel: 1, Security: WPA2 Personal.

How can I make it work?

This is a very interesting situation and one that didn't, for me at least, bring any clear-cut obvious answer. Here is what I found.
First, I created a very similar setup to yours. I connected my iPhone to my Macbook Pro and tethered USB. I had to forget my current wifi network so that I could actually share over my computer's wifi. So, first, double check that your computer doesn't have an active wifi connection (I couldn't tell from your screenshot). A MacBook Pro cannot receive and send a wifi connection - it is a one way street.
I then tried creating a network from the USB connection. This did not work. I then connected my ethernet cable and confirmed that internet sharing worked fine and it was just something about the USB that was problematic. I next proceeded to test Bluetooth tethering. I connected to my phone solely over Bluetooth and once again the computer created a wifi connection. (By the way, the wifi icon changes to a block of gray with an arrow pointing up when the sharing is working). I confirmed on my iPad that it created a perfectly good, and connectable wifi.
I went back and connected only through my USB connection and once again, the computer would not create a wifi. One thing to note about working with this is that there really aren't any errors. If it doesn't work, the only real way to tell is that it won't create a network. While that is fairly obvious, it would be nice to have some error saying why it won't share the USB connection.
The only thing I didn't try was rebooting, but I just started the computer this morning as it was shut down last night, so I see little chance that would work.
In conclusion:
I suggest that you either tether over Bluetooth (and sacrifice some speed, potentially), or just use your iPad to share wifi and Bluetooth.*
* I'm a little curious why you don't do that anyway, but that doesn't matter.

I don't think it's possible when using a shared network (you can share your internet connection through wifi if you're using ethernet).

Why can't you make a wifi hotspot directly from the iPad ?


Is there a way to record my iPad screen for free? Good afternoon,

I own an iPad 2 and a Macbook Pro. I am looking for a free solution to recording my iPad's screen from my computer. I plan to record the gameplay of various iOS games and upload them on video sharing websites.

About my iPad 2 -
Version: 6.0.1

Not jailbroken.

I apologize if this exact question has already been answered but I have been unable to find an answer that is suitable for my specific needs. Finding a free alternative to Reflector seems to be very difficult!

All answers will be greatly appreciated.

There used to be some free apps, but they stopped working because the devs didn't have time to update them to work with the latest changes to airplay.

If you are willing to pay a bit of money you can get apps which turn your Mac into an Airplay server. You can then mirror your iPad's screen to your Mac, and record it there.

Reflector is $12.99
AirServer is $14.99
X-Mirage is $16.00

Check them out, and work out which one is best for you.

EDIT:

X-Mirage has a 7-day free trial, so I think it's the closest you'll get to a "free" solution.

emu4ios.com...install then find iRec and click install and begin


What adapters work from Thunderbolt to HDMI? My new MacBook Pro uses Thunderbolt to connect a monitor. My monitors have all HDMI or VGA plugs. So I was looking for an Thunderbolt to HDMI adapter in my favorite shop. But I can't really find one. Am I missing something?

Yes - you might be overlooking that all the Display Port adapters work perfectly well with Thunderbolt macs.

Just place it at the end of the chain. It's not an issue since your VGA or HDMI device isn't going to have another Thunderbolt port in the chain to send the data further. You are necessarily connecting at the end of the line.

The Moshi is my favorite, but any of the Apple ones VGA, DVI are fine choices as well. You should find many "equivalents" from other vendors as well once you realize you can skip the Thunderbolt part for now.

I'd recommend that if your favourite store doesn't have what you want that you use Google Shopping to search for a reputable store (one with lots of positive reviews) that stocks what you're after.


How to upgrade from OS X El Capitan 10.11.6 to macOS Sierra 10.12.6 I have OS X El Capitan Version 10.11.6 installed and want to upgrade to macOS Sierra 10.12.6

I have downloaded macOS Sierra version 10.13

I have .dmg file of macOS Sierra 10.12.6 but when I am going install it gives me the following error:

I found a lot of .dmg of version 10.12 but I didn't get anywhere then I got version 10.12.1.

Now I am confused that do I compulsory need to fine 10.12 and install it and than after update 10.12.4 and than after 10.12.6?

You have downloaded some updater files for macOS Sierra which require at least an already installed macOS Sierra 10.12.

They are useless if OS X 10.11 El Capitan is installed.

Go to the App Store, download the macOS Sierra installer and install it. If it isn't available the following trick may help:

  Mission accomplished: after installing this command-line tool ('https://github.com/mas-cli/mas'), the command
  mas install 1127487414
  purchased*, downloaded, and installed version 10.12.6 of correctly.

  * By which I mean, the program not only downloaded Sierra, it did so using the Apple-supplied App Store frameworks in /System/Library/PrivateFrameworks, resulting in an application bundle containing a properly-signed MAS receipt linked to my Apple ID.

or try bmike's answer.

You’re too late to download and install Sierra, 10.12. Only High Sierra, 10.13 is now available, and you’ll need to install that. The Sierra 10.12.6 file you have downloaded is a point update for 10.12, not a complete version, and can only be used to update an existing Sierra installation.


Is it possible to disable MacBook trackpad under Windows 7? Is it possible to disable trackpad when running Windows 7 on Macbook Air/Pro? Anyone with this setup can confirm that it's possible?

(I don't use this setup yet, I'm just thinking about it, and want to make sure it supports my needs).

Well, good news. I figured out how to stop that annoying errant cursor from suddenly moving my typing to an unintended place.

Ignore all you have read above.

On the Start bar at the bottom on your screen, far right find the Boot Camp icon.
Click it
See "Boot Camp Control Panel..."
Click it
Click Yes to allowing to proceed
See at the top tabs "Trackpad"
Click it
unclick Tap To Click
click OK

Voila!

Now touching the track pad won't move the cursor...only pressing down to "click" it will.

You can disable it in bootcamp control panel.


How does the Finder refresh in OS X Mountain Lion? I just batch edited some pictures with Preview and changed the name of one file in the Preview window.
Minutes later, Finder still didn't show the changed file sizes (not even when opening the Info dialog) and changed names. Switching from list view to icon view or so didn't fix it.
I restarted Finder and then the names changed.

How come, is there an update or refresh command? Thought it'd be in the View menu but it isn't.

Alt click and select "Get info." This will refresh the folder. I have this problem with ftp folders mounted as a drive via Transmit.

Just go to the parental directory and into the specific folder again and it refreshes the content. Or use the back and forward button.


Why is it that after moving my cursor around really fast for half a second, my cursor becomes huge? If I move my cursor around really fast, half a second after I start moving it the cursor becomes huge. Why does it do that? Can I disable it somewhere in settings?

Note: I noticed it works with a few mice I have tried, and my built-in trackpad. I didn't change any of the default settings that should change this, so you might be able to do it to. If you need proof, I'd be happy to make a video.

Go to System Preferences -> Accessibility and uncheck 'Shake mouse pointer to locate'

Its a new feature in El Capitan to help you find your cursor in the screen ... its basically for old people.


Toggle Mail Classic View in Mountain Lion with I found a script on this site which I edited to make work with Mountain Lion, I thought. It works fine from Automator, but when I save as a service and assign a keystroke to it, it does not. Any help would be appreciated!

tell application "Mail" to activate

tell application "System Events"
    tell process "Mail"
        tell application "System Events" to keystroke "," using command down
        delay 0.1
        activate (first window whose name is "Viewing")
        click checkbox "Use classic layout" of group 1 of group 1 of window "Viewing"
    end tell
end tell

The script didn't focus the Viewing tab. Try this instead:

activate application "Mail"
tell application "System Events" to tell process "Mail"
    keystroke "," using command down
    tell window 1
        click button "Viewing" of tool bar 1
        click checkbox "Use classic layout" of group 1 of group 1
        click button 1
    end tell
end tell

If it still doesn't work, it might be because of a bug where the shortcuts for Automator services don't always work until you hover the services menu from the menu bar. See this question for other ways to assign shortcuts to scripts.

Fixed it! It turns out that a service has to be accessed once from the drop down menu. Then it will work with a short cut...finally!


Install XPDF in Mac/OS How we can install XPDF via Mac Ports? Or if another methods for the installation of XPDF in the Mac/OS platform exists?

You can install it using homebrew too.

First you need to tap homebrew/x11:

$ brew tap homebrew/x11

Then you can easily install it with:

$ brew install xpdf

xpdf is available through the Homebrew project. Once brew is installed, you can install xpdf using the command:

brew install homebrew/x11/xpdf


iTunes Match Songs Don't Appear on iPhone My iPhone 5S says it has synced with iTunes Match but some music is missing from the iPhone.  I have Show All Music turned on.  Is there some way to debug what is happening?

Just to make sure you have all the necessary settings turned on, make sure you have:

The latest version of iOS
Navigate to Settings > Music > iCloud Music Library and turn it on;

Also, make sure you are connected to a WiFi network (the default behaviour of Music app is to only allow music downloads through WiFi). If you don't have a WiFI connection, enable Data Downloads navigating to Settings > Music > Use Mobile Data and turn it on.

Probably these missing songs weren't correctly uploaded from iTunes to cloud. Try re-scan you iTunes library and re-uploading it. Tell me how it goes, I'm having a lot of issues with iTunes Match.


What is it called when your Mac doesn't fully crash? What is it called when an app crashes and it ends up logging you out, without restarting your computer?  The computer never fully turns off because the /tmp fold doesn't get reset.

This is most often caused by the WindowServer process crashing. However, there's not really a name for this specific type of crash.

On iOS it corresponds to the Springboard crashing, which is then named "springboarding".

However, no such name exists in common use for macOS.

The german word would be "neustartunmöglichweilnekernerweiterunghängt" ;)

I english I'd call it time for

(sudo kextunload *; sudo shutdown -h now)


Is there an alternate way to get receipts from the Mac App Store I purchased an app (Divvy) from the Mac App Store ten days ago and still have not received an email receipt for the purchase. The e-mail address in the App Store Account Settings is correct and it's not in the Spam folder. The same account gets receipts fine when I make purchases in the iTunes Store.

Is there a way to either:

View old receipts somewhere, or
Get receipts emailed again?

The reason I need the receipt itself is so I can turn in an expense report. In the case of Divvy, it's not that expensive, but if I can't get receipts, I'm certainly not going to make further purchases.

While going off of the recommendation from @Mark to contact Apple Support I found a way to (kind of) get a receipt by following the directions on this page which shows you how to get order numbers.

Basically, in iTunes, you click on your username/email-address and then log in. This will bring up your Account Information window where you can select the "See All" under the "Purchase History" section. This will take you to a list of transactions.

Unfortunately, you can't print these out directly, but you can take a screen grab of the receipt (Cmd+Shift+3 or Cmd+Shift+4) and then print the resulting graphic.

A little bit of a hack, but it gets you there.

You should always be able to see your up to date purchase history from the App Store menu.

Store -> View my account...

Sign in and look over your purchase history. I'm not aware of a way to get an email summary or duplicate receipts mailed again.


Restore an older version of iCloud keychain I saved an important password in an iCloud keychain, then deleted it there, and then forgot the password. Pretty dumb, I know.
Still, is it somehow possible to get an older version of that keychain that still keeps the password?

I just ran into the same situation and unfortunately no you cannot restore iCloud keychain from your own backup.

See Apple's support note on the topic https://support.apple.com/kb/PH20120, specifically:

  Passwords stored in the iCloud keychain are encrypted and stored on your computer and can’t be copied.

As you, I tried copying other keychain files and 'keychain-db' files, but none of the iCloud passwords were contained in those.

Restore either ~Users/[User]/Library/Keychains/login.keychain
or ~Library/Keychains/System.keychain ( Select 'Keep both' option in Time Machine)

Open the newly restored file with the keyChain Access app.

You will be able to open the older entries in the restored file, and copy, or export them to your live keychain.


MacBook Air 2011 release , OS recovery I formatted my hard disk in internet recovery (disk utility) but it had a partition so I can't boot into the main disk all I see is APPLE SSD HTA..e.t.c which is 60 gb   and I can't see the main partition in disk utility plus I have no startup disk. Terminal's sudo command is also not working, is there anything I can do to gain root and erase all partitions?..it is still in recovery mode

Used Internet Recovery ⌘ Command⌥ OptionR and it worked fine. If you're interested you can buy a Apple technician's disk and boot from it  or buy a new Mac or do something simpler like installing Deb on a Mac with a damaged boot partition.


Problems installing Java 7 update 17 When trying to use my online bank, I was directed to the Java update site (again). I downloaded and installed Java 7 update 17, and the installer reported that everything was a-ok. Clearly, that was something of lie.
Now, when I try to check my Java version on http://java.com/en/download/testjava.jsp, it says that "An old version of Java has been detected on your system". I have tried installing the update again, but the results remain the same. I have also tried rebooting.
On the command line, java -version reports

java version "1.6.0_43"
Java(TM) SE Runtime Environment (build 1.6.0_43-b01-447-11M4203)
Java HotSpot(TM) 64-Bit Server VM (build 20.14-b01-447, mixed mode)

I remember that there used to be some kind of settings where I could choose between installed Java versions, but now I cannot find it. Under "System preferences" there is no mention of Java, and when I search for Java in Spotlight, the only application that comes up is Java VisualVM, whatever that is.
Any ideas as to what might be wrong?
I am running OS 10.8.3 on an Intel Core i3 iMac with 4 GB RAM.

The problem is that you have two Java Runtime Environments (JREs) installed on your system, Apple's 1.6.x and Oracle's 1.7.x. As evidenced by running java -version JRE 1.6 is the default JRE on your system.  You likely want to change the default JRE to Oracle's 1.7 JRE.

You are correct in that there used to be a System Preference for setting the default JRE. Apple removed that as part of the Java Mac OS X 2012-006 update. The new way for selecting the default JRE is to use the /usr/libexec/java_home command. Read the java_home man page as well as the Determining the Default Version of the JDK section of this Oracle page for more info on how to specify the default JRE.


How do I sort albums alphabetically in Photos.app? I would like to know if I can alphabetically sort albums in Photos.app. The iPhoto method for doing this did not work.

If you’re talking about sorting your list of albums alphabetically, go to View → Show Sidebar or press ⌘ cmd ⌥ alt  S. Then right-click Albums in your sidebar and choose Sort → By Name.

If you’re asking about sorting the photos inside an album alphabetically, right-click that album in your sidebar and  choose Sort → Keep Sorted By Title. Note that most photos won’t have a title, and Photos will next sort by date taken.

I had all kind of problems with album sorting across various devices. Please take a look
https://www.thedebuguy.com/blog/photoalbumsort


iPhone not turning on, not responding to hard reset, not responding to charger About 2 days ago, my iPhone 6 decided to stop working.

I tried to see what the error was but it decided not to respond to a charger, it would not respond to a hard reset or even when I tried to connect to iTunes.

I took it into a repair store, and they said when they tried several different things, like replacing battery, LCD, and even screen, it would not turn on.

I am getting a bit worried as there were a lot of important things that I had on that phone that cannot be recovered as they are specific to that phone and cannot be accessed anywhere else.

Please let me know any tips and anything I can do to try and make it work again.

I would get a quote and send the device in to a microsoldering capable repair shop. These are highly specialized and not the typical, fix broken screen type shops.

They can and will fix liquid damage / no power on situations as well as make the system healthy enough in a lab setting to get you your data back and not spend even more money fixing it to run permanently.

https://www.microsolderingrepairs.com/blog/iphonedatarecovery

No power / data recovery are generally less than $250 for non-liquid damaged phones and maybe double that if there is liquid damage / corrosion to be remediated.

You’ll possibly pay more than going to shops like you visited, but the more capable shops have much more expensive tools and skills and can recover data that’s far too gone for a place that specializes on the easy repairs. These sort of shops are generally less expensive than full blown data recovery shops, but you might get a couple quotes before sending it off - just be sure what diagnostic fee you owe and when you are charged if they do or don’t get your data back.

I've had good luck storing the phone in a bag of rice for a few days.
I've also sped up the process by putting it in the oven on 150 degrees for a bit.  (Think leaving the phone on the dash of your car for a few hours.) I wouldn't go above 150 for fear of melting the solder joints though.


Copy files of specific type from parent to child folder I can successfully copy the file from the folder "objects" (the directory I'm in) to it's subfolder "access" with this code in Terminal.

find . -name *.pdf -exec cp {} ./access \;

But the code is also looking into the "access folder" for files to copy and I get this message

cp: ./access/cuid12368.pdf and ./access/cuid12368.pdf are identical (not copied).

Is there a way to not have it look into the "access" folder for files to copy?

The find command is not necessary for this operation. Use:

cp *.pdf access/.

This copies all PDF files to the access subfolder and is much prettier and simpler than the equivalent find command.

Is there a way to not have it look into the "access" folder for files to copy?

Use the -path "pathname" arguments.

find . -name *.pdf -path "./access" -exec cp {} ./access \;


Equivalent of =SUM(ABOVE) in numbers? I have a table like this,

I need to sum all fields above (exclude the header), the following formula works:

=SUM(C1:C5)

When I add more rows I must rewrite the formula, then I tried something like this:

=SUM(C)

Because there's a header in column C, SUM function failed as expected.

What should I use? Number does not support =SUM(ABOVE) and MS Excel is as stuck as it can be.

When putting a sum-over-the-entire-column formula into a regular cell, you are basically self-referencing the formula cell as a value cell.

Try putting the the formula into a footer row. This way you can reference only the cells in a column without including the header or footer row.

Add a footer row in the "Header & Footer" section in the Format > Table sidebar

Put the SUM formula in the footer row (the last row in the image below) and select the entire column by referencing the column letter or the column header title (column header title here is "Header" :).

(Select footer cell, type "=SUM", press Enter, type header title or column letter, press Enter)

As shown, only the cells, without the header or footer row, are selected. The sum is calculated over all cells in the column, even when adding new rows.

You can define your expression by writing = sum( and then clicking with your cursor on the first row you want to include and then dragging the cursor down to the last row. This is much simpler than writing the values in.

Below is an image of a sum expression.

The only thing I actually typed was the characters = sum(. After using the cursor to select B2 thru B11 I typed the closing ).


Tracing the source of "There was a problem connecting to the server" alerts After upgrading from MacOS 10.6 to 10.8, I keep getting alerts on my MBP saying "There was a problem connecting to the server xyz".  The thing is, there is no longer a machine called "xyz" on my network (I've renamed it to something else in hopes of eliminating/diagnosing this problem).

After googling around a bit, I suspect that the culprit is an association of a file type with an application that is on the xyz machine (that I have previously run on my MBP after mounting xyz:/Applications). When these alerts pop out, I see (via top) that a time-machine-induced mdworker is active (seemingly confirming that it's trying to use the remote application to extract information from a local file).

Is there some way that I can confirm what process is actually generating the alerts? Is there a better way of diagnosing their source?

Update: I was never able to figure out what was actually generating the alert, but I was able to abate it by doing a complete re-install of 10.8 (via the recovery boot option). To my surprise -- in addition to eliminating the alerts -- this didn't even require any recovery of my apps/files from backup (not that you should try this without having everything backed up!)

I am getting this as well. The only way to remove it is to re-install OSX, and then it re-appears if I try to install software. Odd ...


How do I get the password hint for an encrypted disk? I created an encrypted disk on a USB drive the other day, and added a password hint. I don't remember what the password is. (I have a scheme for mapping hints to passwords, so when there's a hint available I just pick something random and write out the appropriate hint.)

When reconnecting the disk today, OS X popped up the password prompt - but no hint displayed.

When I go into Disk Utility and try to mount the volume, same thing. Not even a button to show the hint!

So now I've got no idea what the password is. How do I find out the hint?

OS X 10.12.6 (16G29)

Here's the process I went through. (I went through it again using a spare SD card and took screen grabs at each point.)

From Disk Utility, select disk in question and go to the Erase option. Select Mac OS Extended (Journaled, Encrypted)

The password box appears. Enter password and add a hint.

(I usually pick a more cryptic hint than that)

Click Choose, then click Erase, and it will do its thing. Click Done once it's done, and quit Disk Utility.

Eject the newly-mounted encrypted disk image from Finder, then unplug USB hard drive.
Reinsert USB hard drive and wait for password dialog to appear.

But where's the hint?!

Have you tried entering an incorrect password? If I enter a wrong password three times, I get the hint displayed.

Do you have any older Macs? You could try mounting it on an older Mac OS. As is often the case with Apple, features that have disappeared still work on older OSes.


Why does Apple not recommend storing your iMovie library on an external drive? I want to try keeping my iMovie library on an external drive because I use both my Imac (at home) and my MBP (when traveling) to edit my videos.  Ideally, I would like to use a SD card so that it doesn't draw power from my MBP, but it may be too slow? It will also free up hard drive space on both computers. But when searching about this, Apple's support page says it's possible but advises against it:

"You can store your library on an external storage device such as a USB drive, FireWire drive, or Thunderbolt drive formatted as MacOS Extended (Journaled). Apple doesn’t recommend storing iMovie libraries on external storage devices like SD cards and USB flash drives, or drives shared on a network."

Does anyone know why this is so? I want to make sure it's not damaging in anyway.

"Apple doesn’t recommend storing iMovie libraries on external storage devices like SD cards and USB flash drives, or drives shared on a network."

'cause the quality of external flash cards are poor.  I have like eight flash drives bought in the last eight years and two of them have failed.  External cards use a double layer of circuits where as internal SSDs use one.

Library of Congress has a question and answer email facility.  I sent them a line about flash drives.  I found out that:

  LoC does not have data on the reliability of usb memory sticks.
  LoC recommends the use of rotating magnetic media for long term digital storage.

Here is what Library of Congress says about long term storage photos.  I assume that vids would be the same.

This is controversial around these parts, but I recommend you get your photos out of the Apple ecosystem and store them as one photo per file on multiple external storage devices. For long term storage, don't rely on usb memory sticks nor external ssd drives.  LoC does not have data on the reliability of usb memory sticks.  Apple seems to be saying do not store photos on external ssd drives.  One device should be off site.  Using a cloud service is fine.  Remember a lot of cloud services are sync services.  That is should the file be deleted on the local device, the photo will be deleted in the cloud.  For this reason,  I never install the cloud service software on my computer.  I use only file upload.  For those who complain, my assessment is that the apple Eco-system doesn't match Library of Congress's requirements for digital archiving.

informative video:
http://www.digitalpreservation.gov/multimedia/videos/personalarchiving-photos.html

printed version
http://www.digitalpreservation.gov/personalarchiving/photos.html

General information on digital preservation:
http://www.digitalpreservation.gov/personalarchiving/

R

An iMovie library holds all the media and data used to make movies in iMovie. If your iMovie library is large and you want to free up storage space on your Mac, you can move your iMovie library to an external drive.


Month old iPad mini 4 has a yellow box outline on the screen! What should I do? I'm pretty sure this was not there before but now I just noticed it while reading on my iPad. I think it's only on the inside part of the screen as I cannot get the picture to show the yellow when I screenshot it...what should I do? Help! It's just over a month old!

Make an appointment with a Genius in an Apple Store and they will swap it for a new one.


How to silent (vibrate only) alarms? When I use silent mode, I expect no sound and hence I expect alarms to be silent as well but they are not; ring/silent switch has no effect on alarms!
On iOS 5 this used to work and in silent mode alarms did just vibrate.
How can i put alarms in silent mode without reconfiguring each of them one by one when I need silent mode?
Thanks

Use a silent MP3
Here's the solution that worked for me:

Get silent audio clip. Search online (e.g. using Google) or create (using GarageBand, Audacity, etc.) a 20-25 second clip of silence.
Get clip into iTunes. Save it in your iTunes as a "song" (I just called it Silent Ringtone).
Get clip onto iPhone. Then sync your phone so it's now on your phone. (Make sure you check the Sync Music checkbox in iTunes.)
Use clip on iPhone. Now, when you create an alarm, use Pick a Song from your library, and select your "Ringtone" song.   If you have your settings elsewhere set to vibrate on silent or whatever, then you should now have a song that "plays" while your phone happily buzzes.

Hope that helps!
P.S. As someone who only recently switched to iPhone from a phone that could do the vibrate-only alarm thing easily, I would use these alarms to set myself private reminders for lots of things. Such as when I was in a lecture or meeting and needed to remember to leave 5 minutes early but didn't want to be watching the clock constantly. Or if I had to remember when to go back and put more money in the parking meter. Or basically a multitude of things to alert myself that I didn't need to whole world to know about! Just a simple buzz in the pocket was enough.
Further reading: HowToGeek has screenshots

I think the best solution is, select any song as a ringtone, select a type of desired vibration(like Symphony or SOS), save the alarm , then reduce the phone ringtone volume(by pressing the external volume buttons), and bingo, job done.


How do I use cmd+1 as a keyboard shortcut? cmd+2, cmd+3, etc, work In Preferences > Profiles > Keys
I've mapped cmd+1 through cmd+9 but cmd+1 alone does not respond.

Does anyone else have this issue?

This is for the latest iterm2, v2.1.1 and several earlier versions as well; it has never worked for me.

The problem is that iterm2 uses cmd+1, cmd+2 ... etc for switching between tabs by default. As long as you have first tab, cmd+1 is binded to switch to the this tab.

Workaround is to change Keys -> Navigation shortcuts -> To switch tabs: value to alt or any other except cmd.

iTerm2 → Preferences → key → Navigation Shortcuts → To switch split panes.
Replace it with other keys, then ⌘ cmd 1 will work.


Cannot launch Steam game with Wine I have 2 computers. One is Mavericks (10.9.5) and this one is Yosemite. On Mavericks, this works flawlessly. With wine, Steam launches fine. However, there is a peculiar window showing up, and whenever I try launching a game/app, it pops the usual window with "Preparing to launch...", then it disappears and nothing happens.

The image on top shows the unusual window showing up next to the main window.

This is my setup in Wineskin of Steam (needs -no-dwrite because else, it shows blank buttons).

Here and here are the 2 Last Run log files.

UPDATE:

Reinstalling didn't help, and I figured out what the little window is. On Mavericks, it was on the navbar on top, and on yosemite, it is in this window. Clicking it shows the same options as the Steam icon on the navbar on Mavericks. Also, I may have found something related in the logs:

err:winediag:SECUR32_initNTLMSP ntlm_auth was not found or is outdated.
Makesure that ntlm_auth >= 3.0.25 is in your path. Usually, you can find it in the winbind package of your distribution.

I am using OS X Yosemite (10.10.3)

The difference may be related to whether you're using the Mac driver. Go to Set Screen Options, and check Use Mac Driver instead of X11. It's the top checkbox under "Other Options".

Otherwise, it's not clear how your installations are different. Because you're using Wineskin, however, you have a great alternative: Just copy the Wineskin app from your working computer to this one. That will carry along all of the settings and tweaks you have in your working copy. It's all self-contained!


How to get rid of ios beta update messages? I keep getting these, awful, pop-ups - almost every time I open my phone from lock.

A new iOS update is now available. Please update from the iOS 11 beta.

I'm on 11.2 (15C5092b).
Software Update page says:

iOS 11.2
Your software is up to date.

So: What is this mess? and How do I get rid of it?

I’ve been getting this too. I fixed it by removing the iOS beta software profile by going to Settings → General → Profiles, select the Apple beta profile and hit remove. Restart your phone once removed.

Of course doing this removes the phone from receiving further beta updates, but retains the current iOS installed. You shouldn’t need minor iOS updates for development anyways.

Apprentely this update is only for iPhone X (to allow it use beta version is)


How To Disable OS X Mavericks USB autorun After inserting USB 3G modem i always getting same behavior:

if bundled software is not installed:

Opening finder window with mounted folder
Opening standard installer dialog (agree license, install software that written inside 3G modem)

if installed already:

Modem-related app is launching

Question: how to disable that "autorun" (not exactly windows-style autorun, i know)?

Super-annoying

P.S. Things applied only to OS X Maverick, previous OSX versions don't show same behavior

UPDATE

Modem brand is HUAWEI E173
Previous OSX version don't show same behavior
Found hidden modem helper, location: /Library/StartupItems/HWNetMgr

plist:

{
  Description     = "HWNetMgr";
  Provides        = ("HWNetMgr");
  OrderPreference = "Early";
  Messages =
  {
    start = "Starting Huawei HWNetMgr";
    stop  = "Stopping Huawei HWNetMgr";
  };
}

And removed it completely && rebooted. Results: nothing actually changed. Same behavior as mentioned above. So i thinking it's not related to the modem brand/bundle and in-system property.

You need to remove the auto launch job with the launchctl command.

For example, in my case I have already installed a modem manufactured by ZTE. So I searched for LAUNCHD listings using the launchctl list command and grepped for those modem strings.

launchctl list | grep -i zte

Showing:

5681    -   cn.com.zte.usbswapper.plist

If you do not find your app, then output all the jobs to a file. This awk command tries to overcome the chance that you may have spaces in your launchd job name.

launchctl list 2>/dev/null | awk '
{ x="\""substr($0, match($0, $3), 100)"\""; print x; system("launchctl list " x) }
' > launchList.txt

Open launchList.txt. The name of the launchd job will be shown in "..." above the {} block where you hopefully find a "Mobile Partner" or "AutoOpen" string.

Perhaps inspect the item to be more confident before removal. Surround by "" if there are spaces in the job name.

launchctl list "cn.com.zte.usbswapper.plist"

Then just remove it. This is the command to stop the auto load. Be very sure you are removing the correct agent or deamon.

launchctl remove "cn.com.zte.usbswapper.plist"

Add it again if you want, using the full path of the PLIST file.

launchctl load /Library/LaunchAgents/cn.com.zte.usbswapper.plist

Delete /Library/LaunchAgents/HWPortCfg.plist and /Library/StartupItems/HWPortDetect and reboot your system.


How do I remove the recently added section in Music? I recently updated my old iPhone 5 to iOS 9.

One of the things I don't like about the new music player is that when I start it up after I turned on my iPhone, half the screen is taken up by useless stuff, the main offender is the "recently added" section.

Is there a way I can get rid of this recently added section?

No, that section can't be removed.  Many people, including me, would like to be able to customize the start screen like this but I haven't been able to find any credible info on how to do this.

You can hide it is all I can find.... select "Recently Added" in the left column, then [Right]Click > [Uncheck/Tick] Recently added. Will not show when you open iTunes in future... Not perfect but a start


How to prevent Windows 10 from downloading and installing updates before the Boot Camp Support Software is installed? Microsoft is allowing users to download and install (but not activate) Windows 10 Pro 64 bit without using a Product key.

I tried doing a clean install of Windows 10 on my mid 2007, 20 inch iMac. During installation, I was not asked if I wanted to disable Windows Update. Windows ended up downloading drivers before I could install the Boot Camp software. Some of the drivers installed but most failed.

Is there a way to install the Boot Camp software before updates are downloaded?
Or, can updating be disabled during the Windows 10 installation?

Below are some basic steps to install the Boot Camp Support Software and configure Windows Update before updates are downloaded from Microsoft.

  Windows Update can only be configured if you are installing Windows 10 Pro or better. I do not know of a way to configure Windows Update for Windows 10 Home. The steps given below can still be used to install the Boot Camp Support Software.

Hint: For a better view, click on an image or open an image in a new window.

Before installing Windows 10, make sure your computer can not
communicate with the internet. If the computer is hardwired to the
internet, disconnect it now.
Start installing Windows 10.
You may be asked to connect to the internet via Wi-Fi. If a window
similar to below appears, click on "Skip this step".

When you reach the following screen, put the computer in Audit mode
by pressing the following keys. With the
ctrlshift keys held down, press the
F3 key. Hold all three keys down for about 3 seconds or
until the computer starts to reboot.

If you see the screen below, do nothing. The computer will login
automatically to the Administrator account.

Eventually, you should get the following screen showing the
Administrator's desktop. You can close the "System Preparation Tool
3.14" window.

Check the clock and make any needed corrections. Right click on the
clock shown on the task bar at the bottom right of the screen and
select "Adjust date/time". See image shown below.

Install the Boot Camp Support Software (BCSS) by opening the setup
Application in the appropriate BCSS folder. If you get a Windows
version error message similar to what is shown below, proceed to
step 9.

If you get a Boot Camp x64 error message similar to what is shown
below, proceed to step 10. Otherwise, goto step 11.

You can remedy the situation by right clicking on the highlighted
setup application entry and selecting "Properties", as shown below.

Next, click on the "Compatibility" tab, check off "Run this program
in compatibility for:" box and select the appropriate previous
version of Windows. An illustration is shown below.

Click the "OK" button and a open the setup application to install
the BCSS. If the computer reboots, you can close the "System
Preparation Tool 3.14" window and any Boot Camp windows. Proceed to
step 11.
You can remedy the situation by using the Finder application to
 navigate to the Windows Installer Package named "BootCamp64" or
 similar file. Right click on the file entry and select
 "Properties", as shown below.

Next, click on the "Compatibility" tab, check off "Run this program
 in compatibility for:" box. An illustration is shown below.

Click the "OK" button. Right click on the file entry and select
 "Install", as shown below. This starts the installation of the
 BCSS. If the computer reboots, you can close the "System
 Preparation Tool 3.14" window and any Boot Camp windows.

If you do not want to configure Windows Update or have Windows 10
Home, you should skip this step. To proceed, right click on the
Start button on the taskbar and select "Run", as shown below.

In the popup windows, enter "gpedit.msc" and click the Ok button, as
shown below.

Select "Local Computer Policy→Computer Configuration→Administrative
Templates→Windows Components→Windows Update", as shown below.

Next, right click on "Configure Automatic Updates" and select
"Edit". The "Configure Automatic Updates" windows should appear as
shown below.

If you want to "Never check for updates" click the "Disabled"
button, otherwise click the "Enabled" button and choose your option.
The result from choosing option 2 is shown below.

When finished, click the "OK" button to close the window. Also,
close the "Local Group Policy Editor" window. Next, Click on the
Start button on the task bar and select "Settings→Update &
security→Windows Update→Check for updates". When the following
message occurs, click "Advanced options".

Inspect the window to confirm you selection. Below is the correct
window for option 2.

Close the "Settings" window.
Connect your computer to the internet. If you computer was hardwired
to the internet, plug it back in now. If you were using Wi-Fi,
enable it and join a network.
If the "System Preparation Tool 3.14" window is not displayed,
reboot the computer.
Click the "OK" button in the "System Preparation Tool 3.14" window.
 Use the default settings shown in the image below.

When the computer reboots, you will have left the Audit mode. You should boot to the following display.

On my computer, I was able to select the "United States (Apple)" keyboard. You may want to check if a better choice exists than the default keyboard.

At this point, you can continue with the Windows 10 installation.

Additional Notes:

There is a downloadable "Show or hide updates" troubleshooter package from Microsoft, that will allow you to review and/or hide updates before downloading and/or installing. This option is described in an answer to "Stopping automatic updates windows 10".

Personally, I found this software to be unpredictable. I could get the software to hide an update, but I had trouble getting a hidden update to install.

TO prevent windows from updating automatically, you have to make sure that windows update service is disabled. It is very easy to do rather than going through the hassle explained above. Here is the link of the youtube video which explains how to disable windows update services. Check it out : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Efm9tQwtBM0


How do I know if my iPhone device is using WiFi 6 I have an iPhone 11 and a new Ubiquiti UniFi 6 Lite AP. I can’t see any way to know from the phone (or the AP) if the phone is using a WiFi 6 connection or not.

In a nutshell, WiFi 6 is a marketing term for 802.11ax and the fastest way to know it’s working is to check radio details on the Ubiquity app and know exactly which encoding scheme is used from moment to moment. The radios adapt and steer traffic based on interference and other radios which change constantly.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11ax

Even with WiFi 6 available, if you’re stuck behind a slow router, a well engineered device might connect in a more power-efficient manner until it needs extra speed.
Both Apple and Ubiquity have a long track record of working together well -  in the end, I recommend you look at the WiFi quality on Ubuiquity side and check your iOS device MAC address in the UniFi App and check your transmit rate / channel / RSSI to make sure your speeds are negotiating to the fast speeds you expect. As long as WiFi is faster than your server connection, it likely won’t matter if you’re on 5 or 6 flavor of the technical / marketing side of things.
To illustrate this recommendation:

I currently have a 802.11ac connection so the 866 MBps means I’m either running MCS 9 with two spatial streams and 256-QAM modulation on 80 MHz channels with 400ns GI or MCS 9 with one spatial stream on a 160 MHz channel and the other radio parameters the same. Since WiFi 6 includes older standards, you could argue I’m already using a WiFi 6 connection with my hardware for this specific answer.

Unfortunately, iOS doesn't show this information to the user and, due to the restrictive nature of iOS, it is not accessible in any easy manner.
But there is a way to figure it out. Your Ubiquiti UniFi 6 Lite AP router supports WiFi 6. And WiFi 6 comes with an enhanced security feature called WPA3 Personal (for home use). And iOS 13 and above supports WPA3 Personal.
In your router, make sure your WiFi network is secured with a password through WPA3 Personal. Then, if you can successfully connect your iPhone 11 to your Wifi with this password (set through WPA 3 Personal), you can be relatively sure that your iPhone 11 has connected to your router on Wifi 6 (i.e. established a wifi connection on 802.11ax).


Yosemite: Backslash key doesn't work My backslash key stopped working after upgrading to yosemite last week. Also, whenever i restart my mac system starts typing backslash on any textbox. It doesn't stop until i hit backspace.

backslash key was permanently pressed. Nothing related to yosemite. Used Karabiner to disable that key.


Synchronize iBooks across multiple Macs running Mavericks I'm wondering if it's possible to keep iBooks in Sync between various computers (running Mac OS X mavericks) under the same iCloud account. I set up my iBooks but synchronization only happens between a single Mac and devices running iOS 7. What's the point of using iBooks, if when I'm not in my laptop, I want to read the book on my iMac, but iBooks doesn't get synced across Macs...Did I miss anything?

Thanks for any hints, answers, such as using File sharing with Dropbox, Team Drive, etc. to try to synchronize the iBooks database and Data Contents. I only tried the Books folder from  ~/Library/Containers/com.apple.BKAgentService/Data but it didn't work.

You might have the wrong idea (in Apple's eyes) about syncing through iBooks. You will not be able to have content magically appear on your second Mac, if the book is not purchased through the iBooks Store. Syncing does not work iTunes Match-like.

For non-iBookstore files, like MobileRead epubs, you will need to transfer the same epubs you imported onto iBooks on machine 1 to machine 2 and import them again. I hope you still have copies of these files -- because as far as I can tell, iBooks splits up epubs you import into it, and you cannot get them back out as an epub again. (I would love to be wrong about this.)

The good news is: Once you have imported these files, syncing between Macs works for notes, reading positions and highlights, as long as you have enabled "Sync bookmarks, highlights and notes across devices" in iBooks preferences. Again: iBooks will only sync said bookmarks, highlights and notes, NOT the books themselves. You will also need to have logged in with the same Apple ID on both devices.

Needless to say, you should also make sure to run the latest version of iBooks (currently 1.0.1).

This might be the only advantage of (and reason for) not being able to change metadata in iBooks -- at least the software knows which files are identical...

you can create an ePub file of a single book by dragging it from the iBook app to the Destkop.


Why can't I copy a drive in full to another drive? I am trying to copy one drive to another (both external) - from a 1TB to an empty 4TB drive.

I reformatted the 4TB drive, and here is its information:

$ sudo newfs_exfat -N /dev/disk3
Reformatting existing ExFAT volume
Partition offset : 0 sectors (0 bytes)
Volume size      : 7813969920 sectors (4000752599040 bytes)
Bytes per sector : 512
Bytes per cluster: 16384
FAT offset       : 32768 sectors (16777216 bytes)
# FAT sectors    : 1933312
Number of FATs   : 1
Cluster offset   : 1966080 sectors (1006632960 bytes)
# Clusters       : 244125120
Volume Serial #  : 5d2afd28
Bitmap start     : 2
Bitmap file size : 30515640
Upcase start     : 1865
Upcase file size : 5836
Root start       : 1866

Here is the information from the 1TB drive:

$ sudo newfs_exfat -N /dev/disk4
Partition offset : 0 sectors (0 bytes)
Volume size      : 1953458176 sectors (1000170586112 bytes)
Bytes per sector : 512
Bytes per cluster: 131072
FAT offset       : 2048 sectors (1048576 bytes)
# FAT sectors    : 61440
Number of FATs   : 1
Cluster offset   : 63488 sectors (32505856 bytes)
# Clusters       : 7630448
Volume Serial #  : 5d406cb7
Bitmap start     : 2
Bitmap file size : 953806
Upcase start     : 10
Upcase file size : 5836
Root start       : 11

It seems like the cluster size is smaller in the 4TB drive (after my reformatting), yet, the contents from the 1TB drive do not fit into the 4TB drive, and I get "disk out of space" on a Terminal where I copy the files with cp -r.

Any ideas why?

and I get "disk out of space" on a Terminal where I copy the files with cp -r.

I suggest using the ditto command.  You can use ditto to copy directory to directory. It includes all nested directory. No idea how links would work.

Would the source disk be timemachine disk?  It uses hardlinks which result in a copy of the data being made for each hardlink.

Same would go for another disk with lots of links. fyi: The Unix link command is ln.

https://www.macworld.com/article/2080814/master-the-command-line-copying-and-moving-files.html

Make sure both drives have finished reformatting and are not currently reformatting.

This should work but I haven't tried it and you should use at your own risk  obviously change the [volumes] mv ~/[Volume1] /[Volume2]/Backup/MyFolder


What harm will denying ocsp.apple.com do? After the recent issue of trustd trying to connect to Apple's overloaded servers, and causing slowdowns to Macs around the world, one discussion page suggested a temporary fix:

This command in Terminal will edit your /etc/hosts file to block
connections to the problematic Apple server:
echo 0.0.0.0 ocsp.apple.com | sudo tee -a /etc/hosts

It then said "you REALLY do not want to leave that line in /etc/hosts—it MUST come out later!".
Does anyone know what the consequences might be of obstructing trustd in this way long-term?

OCSP requests send a hash for every program you run, so that trustd can report the information (to a third-party CDN run by another company, Akamai).  The purpose is to effectively verify whether the app that is launching is notarized or not by attempting to validate any Apple-related cryptographic certificates.  With the release of macOS 11, we could no longer block certain Apple OS services with apps like Lulu and Little Snitch, as per the new restrictions to how third-party kernel extensions can function as well as to their scope of control.  This feature was then removed with the release of macOS 11.2.
If you always know what you're installing and you trust the processes running on your Mac, there might not be an immediate consequence of blocking the OCSP requests.  Since they require an internet connection, you could instead toggle your network connection to resolve any slow-downs the next time Apple's servers freeze up.  If you want to block the OCSP requests, your solution should work (at least for that address).  If you want to disable the service, you can try the following commands:
sudo defaults write /Library/Preferences/com.apple.security.revocation.plist OCSPStyle None
sudo defaults write com.apple.security.revocation.plist OCSPStyle None

I can't verify that it will make a difference, since Apple removed the conventional method to accomplish the equivalent in Keychain Access → Preferences years ago.

Happend to me that this service, on slow internet connection or login-required hotspot, whe the macbook wakes from stop condition just block the keyboard and trackpad, after having successfully blacklisted on the hosts file the problem goes away... so, even it is not a ocsp server problem, this service can slow your computer a lot waiting for every single hash to be received and validated.(Macbook pro 2019 13")


iPhone 5 and updates from my Hotmail.com account Just got my new iPhone issued to me at work.  When I put in my Hotmail.com address it automatically attached all those contacts to my phone.  Since that time I have gone into the Hotmail.com contacts and cleaned it all up by deleting many unused and old contacts.
How do I get the phone to now update the new contact list??

Nevermind,  I found my answer at How to Geek  howtogeek.com


Macbook Pro Late-2011, Mountain Lion, when it sleeps, devices don't wake Made the upgrade to Mountain lion when it came out, but since the upgrade I have noticed something occurring when my laptop goes to sleep be it idling or me putting it in a sleep mode, when I go to wake the laptop almost every time anything hooked into the USB ports don't respond and remain dormant as if the laptop was still in a sleep mode.

Example one of the places I hook my Mac up has a wired USB keyboard, and a USB to VGA monitor connector which doesn't respond when I wake the laptop. Or another place where I have 2 USB Monitor connections, a USB based harddrive toaster. All of which stop responding after the laptop sleeps. I have to pull the USB's out and plug them back in to make them work again and only after I wake the laptop.

So I am wondering is there some new power settings I am missing somewhere, that don't turn the USB on after idle? Everything worked just fine prior to the Mountain Lion Upgrade so I know its nothing to do with that.

Maybe you already found this, but ....
System Preferences/Energy Saver
has a checkbox "Wake for network access'
The help says:
Select this option if you want other users to be able to access your computer’s shared resources, such as shared printers or iTunes playlists, even when your computer is in sleep mode.


Way to limit CPU speed to prevent temperature spikes? I have a 17 inch MacBook Pro with Thunderbolt.  Occasionally, it heats up and the fan has to kick on.  This happens typically during heavy CPU utilization, but also seemingly randomly when doing mundane tasks.

If I could half the speed of my CPU, it would still be more than fast enough for most of my day to day tasks.  Is there a way to reduce the CPU speed for the entire system?  Will this minimize the heat related issues and prevent the fan from kicking on?

It's not practical, but that model of MacBook Pro will run the CPU lower if the battery is disconnected since it can't count on the battery to work as a capacitor and the CPU/GPU can over draw the power supply.

Also - you could try gfxCardStatus to shift to the lower power GPU to reduce that source of heat.

If you are still running Snow Leopard, there are some CHUD tools in the performance testing folder of Xcode that let you to disable cores on processors which would let the system get less work down and generate substantially less heat. I don't know of a program to do this on Lion as the latest Lion build of Xcode didn't ship with the CHUD tools.

Yes there is. Check out CoolBook at www.coolbook.se! Good luck!


Mac Pro 5.1 Windows 10 EFI Boot (Separate Drive) I've installed Windows 10 EFI with this Tutorial and it worked fine. But when switching from Windows to OSX using the Bootcamp "Boot to OSX..." it just rebooted into Windows again. Then I unplugged the Windows drive and it booted into OSX, but now if I choose "Windows" from System Preferences->Startup Disk it just reboots to OSX.

Is the only way of switching OS in this configuration by using a helper card and pressing alt on boot?

My current setup:

Mac Pro 4.1 (flashed to 5.1)
2,66 Quad Xeon
RX480 graphics card
Bay 1 OSX SSD Drive
2nd Optical Bay Windows SSD Drive

I have installed it on 2 separate drives. Windows being in EFI mode, and during the installation I did not use any Boot Camp crap, but I had to leave only 1 empty drive for Windows 10 install and boot from Windows 10 DVD in EFI mode. Then I created the Windows partition from scratch and installed Windows.

Download the bootcamp drivers from this link. I did update Windows and installed Boot Camp 6 drivers by running msiexec /i BootCamp64.msi from Administrative CMD window, which is located in Boot Camp\Drivers\Apple directory. Then I connected all the other drives.

In macOS High Sierra I installed Boot Runner from Twocanoes. From the recovery partition's terminal I executed:

csrutil enable --without nvram

so the Boot runner can boot Windows. After logging back into macOS High Sierra, logout. You will come to the Boot runner's startup disk screen. Select Windows and it will reboot to Windows. If you want to go back to macOS, select macOS High Sierra option in the startup disk of the Boot Camp manager (in Windows)

I have migrated my internal Windows drive to Sonnet Tempo SSD Pro Plus SATA III PCI Express Card. Unfortunately, due to the fact the drives on this card are recognized as external, I guess Boot Runner does not populate an option to boot directly from this drive. As a workaround though I can select the SSD as a boot drive from the Boot Camp manager in my internal Windows drive which works like a charm.

i pretty much have the exact same problem with similar configuration.

Windows 10 is working fine but "set startup disk" in system preferences seams to not work… In System Preferences under startup disk it shows up my windows 10 folder correctly but it doesn't work when selected and restart – it boots just in Mac OS again.

when i boot with holding option(alt) (Mac startup manager) to select the startup disk it shows up "EFI Boot" instead of "Windows" but works actually fine when boot into "EFI Boot" (which is my Win10 install).

My guess is (when you look at diskutil list) that the EFI Partition should be in position 1 instead 2 (should be disk3s1 instead of disk3s2)  to work correctly – Windows Recovery is set on disk3s1 falsely.

Because i use a unflashed GTX 1070 GPU with Nvidia web drivers i'm not able to navigate to the startup manager holding option(alt). For that reason i use bootchamp now to boot in to windows manually. only downside of this method is that i have to boot into mac OS first every time and when restarting the computer from windows it boots up in mac OS again because Bootchamp only sets the startup disk to windows for once.
(But this isn't actually a problem for me because i use Mac OS more)

i hope you could find any solution already or i could help you a little bit with your/our problem

Regards


How can I display iPad content fullscreen with HDMI on a TV? I bought an iPad lately (10.5" 2017), and I want to connect it via HDMI to my HDTV. Now I know that because of the iPad screen size, I cannot get fullscreen on my TV (I have black borders right and left right now).

But, is there any way I can make it work?

I use this iPad for travelling and would love to plug it into a hotel TV and watch Netflix on it. But I would like to display the content fullscreen without the black borders!

There are apps that detect if your iPad is mirrored to an external device via HDMI and adjust to fit accordingly.  For example, the official Netflix app outputs the original aspect ratio to the external screen.  The device displays the message "Now playing on your TV" as noted in the attached screen shot.  The TV displays the show at the proper aspect ratio depending on its settings.

Keynote and other apps work similarly.  It would depend largely on the aspect ratio of the TV show or Movie being played.

You can adjust the screen size on your tv. It worked for me.


Is there an app for iPhone to record the audio output streaming of any other app ? Is there an app for iPhone/iPad to record the audio output streaming of any other app ?

I need to record the audio streamed from other apps and not the audio from the microphone.

thanks

This link shows the steps on mac. https://www.apptamin.com/blog/capture-iphone-ipad-screen-video/

You use Quicktime,
Connect your iPhone or iPad to your Mac via the lightning cable.
Open QuickTime player.
Click File then select 'New Audio Recording'
A recording window will appear.
Select the Mic of your iPhone if you want to record music/sound effects.
Click the Record button.
You will not hear the sound, but the levels show the input.

Try audials Tunebite premium. This should record from any audio stream


Copy & Paste photos between albums Is there a way to copy an entire photo (not just a shortcut to the photo) from your camera role to another photo album?  Now that we can edit photots on the iPhone I thought it might be useful to make a copy of a photo before messing with it.

After selecting a photo and hitting "copy", there doesn't appear to be a way to paste it into another album.  Selecting the "add to" option, and adding it to another album does appear to work; however, editing the photo in one album affects both the original photo, and the "copy" of it.

Is there any way to make a copy of the actual photo, and paste it in another album?

As you are asking for any way:

select photo you wish to duplicate
Press "Share" and "Email Photo"
Send email to yourself using actual size of picture
Once email is back select picture and save to Photo Roll

PS: I tried to just cancel the email first and keeping a copy in Drafts. But it seems you can't select a picture out of a mail in the Drafts folder.


Yosemite - Make Safari tab font bold or bigger I’ve updated my system to Yosemite and now I wonder if there’s a way to increase tab font size (or make it bold).

As Yosemite user, I understand your problem. What you could try to do to improve readability is to install good old Lucida Grande font as system:
project page on Github

It worked fine for me.


MacBook Pro 15" 2008 freezes with colorful screen Starting a few days ago my Mac froze mid usage, was using Chrome when it did it. I got all these crazy colors everywhere, and it froze. I turned off the power, waited a few, then turned back on.

It came up with some text telling me it didn't shut down correctly and hit Esc to reboot. I did, it showed that text again. So I turned off, took out the battery, waited 10 min.

After that, I turned back on and it came on and booted up. Again, I used it about 10 to 15 minutes and the colors went crazy again and it froze. Had to turn off again. I've done this a few times since then, trying to figure out what's wrong with it.

I booted into Mac+S console, ran fsck and it said drive and files were good. I mounted the drive, all my files are there. So I exited console and rebooted.

At this point, I can't get past that text telling me to hit Esc to reboot.

It's a MacBook Pro (15-inch Early 2008) with Sierra.

Those visual artifacts are very typical of a failing GPU. This looks pretty advanced and you can usually confirm by seeing an external display fail as well.

It could be cabling or the LCD, but that’s far less likely. Super rare would be driver or software issue.

Make sure you have a good backup in case when the GPU fails it takes down the logic board as well. Worst case, removing the drive or booting in target mode is likely to be an easy data transfer if it should stop booting our the display finally fails.

Try this... (resetting the SMC)

This is how to reset SMC on most modern Mac laptops, none of which have a removable battery:

Shutdown your MacBook Air / MacBook Pro
Connect the power adapter to the Mac
On the MacBook / Pro’s keyboard, hold down the Shift+Control+Option keys and the Power button at the same time
Release all keys and the power button at the same time – the little light on the MagSafe adapter may change colors briefly to indicate the SMC has reset
Boot your Mac as usual

Also try resetting the PRAM...

You reset the PRAM / NVRAM by doing the following:

Reboot a Mac and then immediately hold down the Command+Option+P+R keys
You will then hear the Mac reboot sound again, signifying that the Macs PRAM or NVRAM has been reset successfully.

You must hit the key combination before the grey screen appears otherwise it won’t work, you may need to try it once or twice until you get the timing right during restart, but once it works you can let the Mac system start as usual.

Let us know if you're still having issues after this... it works most of the time.


Some keys are not working on new Macbook with touch bar Few keys like i, k and l are not working for my login. These keys work at login screen and for other users. Had a conversation with Apple support online chat and we went thru the following but issue is not resolved yet.

We did the following

NVRAM Reset
System Management Controller (SMC) reset
macOS Recovery
Updated latest OS :macOS Sierra 10.12.5
Reinstall macOS using macOS Utilities

During the process, app representative asked me to create new login and try and it worked.

Wondering if you have seen this issue on your Macbooks. I have so much data in my login and I haven't thought about it moving data to new login.

Thanks

simply, switch to guest account,go to system preferences..see image attached.
Then switch back to user account and login using virtual  keyboard. I do it everytime.

Genius bar person took only a minute to figure this out. It turned out be Mouse Keys. I am surprised that the person I chat for couple of hours didn't know this.

Somehow, Option key was pressed five times and it turned on the Mouse keys.
http://www.macworld.com/article/1157890/computers/mousefreemac.html

Thank you all for your help.


How can I find my lost iPhone 7 Plus? I lost my iPhone yesterday and I didn't turn on mobile data, so I couldn't use Find my iPhone to locate it. I have tried to call many times, but no one answers and the phone keeps ringing. That means my iPhone is still active with my SIM card. Does anybody know how can I locate my iPhone? (I use a Vodafone SIM card and I purchased my phone on plan.)

There's no way you can locate your device without it connecting to the internet. You can go to this link and enable the lost mode. I am not sure if your phone was locked, if it was then there's no way it can have internet unless it is unlocked. If it was not locked and it gets internet access then the lost mode will be enabled and you can get the phones location. Also the phone will be locked after that.

Once you enable Lost Mode, you will also get an option to enable 'Notify me when found', enable that option as well.

If your have not enabled Two-factor authentication for Apple ID and if you have any other apple device then I suggest you enable it by following instructions on this link. Because now there are high chances of someone trying to hack your apple id to use the phone.

Have you tried the find my iPhone app? Just sign in with iCloud and your phone will start making a noise


Does an iPhone immediately download a visual voicemail as soon as it's been received, or only when it's chosen from the list of available messages? When using a carrier that makes use of the Visual Voicemail service, upon receiving a voicemail does the iPhone immediately download the message to its internal storage - or is this only done when said message is explicitly chosen from within the "Voicemail" tab of the Phone app?

I’d assume it saves it to its internal memory.


How do I revert iTunes contact sync? I first upgraded my operating system (Windows Vista) and then iTunes.

During the upgrade, I accidentally chose contact syncing should prefer my Windows' contacts over my iPhone's contacts. Now I've lost my phone's contact directory.

How do I revert the iTunes contact sync so I can get my iPhone contacts back?

I'm Michael and I work for connex.io, an address book app.
You can probably retrieve your contacts by taking the following steps:

On your iPhone go to Settings -> iCloud
and disable ‘Contacts’

They should re-appear.
If you want your contacts to be safer, you can always try connex.io. With our service you will always have your contacts with you. So even if you lose your phone, your contacts will still be in the cloud. It can also sync, de-duplicate, merge, clean, complete and update all of your contacts automatically. So you connect your devices once and then you will always have your contacts where ever you need them. If you would like to try it out, check out this link or you can send me an e-mail at michael@connex.io


Disable voice control on iPhone 4s, ios7.1 My partner has a hand-me-down iPhone 4s, and a few months ago, the home button started playing up and not pressing. She started using the on-screen home button instead, which has solved the problem of not being able to press the home button.

Now though, the home button is more responsive, even too responsive. We started noticing that she had called random people (totally random, not most recent or near the beginning of the alphabet or anything) while the phone was in her bag, and occasionally while locking the phone, it would issue a camera shutter button as if it had taken a screenshot. Now it is frequently activating voice control, even if it is just sitting on the table.

It's pretty clear that the problem is that the home button is sticking down sometimes, and is often opening voice control, and as a result, dialling random people (apparently the voice dial software is oversensitive and thinks anything is a name, rather than saying 'sorry, cannot find "hrrghgsh" in your contacts'.

Other people who have had this issue have said that you can turn off voice dial (but not voice control) via settings > general > passcode lock, however my partner's phone has no such setting for voice dial in passcode lock, or anywhere else as far as I can tell.

Can anyone tell me where voice dial has moved, or if voice control itself can be entirely disabled (as one would expect to be possible) or alternatively, if the home button itself can be entirely disabled?

There is a way to make home button not to work wheb the home is lock.
First activate Siri
setting >General> Siri > ON
Then
If iphone 5s (may be it work in iphone 4a)
setting >Id&passcode> there is an option where it tell to siri off when phone is lock.
make sure you put it off.
Thats it home button wont work when phone is lock.
Preventing voice control to make stupid random call

Settings>General>Restrictions. Turn OFF Siri

If you forgot Restrictions code , pls watch it and solve problem .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xalgQNLKH-w


Recovering files from an unbootable partition in OSX I have a MacBook previously bootcamped to Windows 10. The internal hard drive had 3 partitions:

200MB Partition 0
249GB Partition 1 (OSX)
250GB Partition 2 (Windows 10)

The model is a MacBook Pro mid-2012, and Partition 1 has OSX 10.15 Catalina.
I've made a fatal mistake of accidentally deleting the 200 MB partition via the Windows 10 install disk. I wanted to reinstall Windows 10 to fix some audio errors. Now I'm trying to recover all the files I have in the OSX partition. Before I made this mistake, I've backed up all Windows files on the OSX partition.
If I go to disk utility via Internet Recovery on my Mac, the list of disks and volumes has a "disk0s1" volume that I can't verify nor repair but can only be partitioned away. If I ever re-partition or reformat that hard drive, all data will be lost. I need to recover the files before I do anything.
diskutil list prints out:
/dev/disk0
#:                   TYPE NAME SIZE      IDENTIFIER
0: FDisk_partition_scheme      *500.1 GB disk0
1:                   0xFF      249.0 GB  disk0s1

gpt -r show /dev/disk0 prints out:
    start      size index contents
        0         1       MBR
        1         1       Pri GPT header
        2        32       Pri GPT table
       34         6
       40    409600     1 GPT part - C12A7328-F81F-11D2-BA4B-00A0C93EC93B
   409640 486328128     1 MBR part 255
486737768       152
486737920 490035200     3 GPT part - EBD0A0A2-B9E5-4433-87C0-68B6B72699C7
976773120        15
976773135        32       Sec GPT Table
976773167         1       Sec GPT header

The tools I currently have for this situation:

Windows 10 installation USB
A Seagate External portable 1TB hard drive

I will post this as an answer although there are some uncertainties since some info is missing.

A 200mb Partition usually is the EFI partition (more detail what this is) which allows your Mac to boot into Windows.

Deleting this does not at a all delete your actual Mac/Windows partition. Therefore, I doubt you have actual done too much harm.
It is not clear if you have tried and failed, but you should be able to boot into macOS. After startup go into the finder and show all drives (finder hit cmd, select sidebar and tick everything that says disk).
You should then be able to see the remaining two partitions, Macintosh HD and some other name (e.g. Windows). Usually, you can simply open either and then do whatever you want, e.g. clone one disk, save the data,...

Don't panic, It can probably be the EFI partition, a simple reinstall (without erasing anything) will do the job.
Nor, if you have another Mac/PC, you can boot your Macbook on which you want to recover files, in target disk mode (by pressing "D" at boot) and connect it on your other Mac/PC.


What happens when WhatsApp from an old phone is connected again? I‘ve got an old iPhone in my closet, which I used until one year ago, when I bought a new one.

On the old iPhone, I had WhatsApp with iCloud Backup enabled. However I did not include the videos in the backup.

When I got the new one, I set it up via iCloud backup, and continued my online life and history.

Now I do miss these videos. Now I‘m wondering what happens when I start my old phone which has these videos locally, and open WhatsApp. What will happen? What will happen to the backup? What will happen to the chat history? Is there a way I could like download the messages on my old phone (and be current) while still having the videos, then recreate the backup, turn it off and then having the videos on the new device, when restored from backup?

If you have a Mac, you can navigate to the following folder using terminal:

~/Library/Mobile Documents/

List all hidden files (from the terminal) to see a folder which looks like: 12HJ1123DHJ~net~whatsapp~WhatsApp, i.e. random alpha-numeric sequence ending with net~whatsapp~WhatsApp. cd into this folder.
Next, navigate into Accounts/<PhoneNumber>/backup from this folder.

Finally you'll be in a folder whose path which looks like this (check with pwd):

~/Library/Mobile Documents/12HJ1123DHJ~net~whatsapp~WhatsApp/Accounts/<PhoneNumber>/backup

Your chat backup and history is stored in this folder. (Hidden files, can be seen with ls -al)

-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  177 Jun  2 17:20 .BackedUpKeyValue.sqlite.enc.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  159 Jun  2 17:21 .Backup.plist.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  174 Jun  2 17:20 .ChatStorage.sqlite.enc.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  165 Jun  2 17:20 .Document.tar.aux.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  162 Jun  2 17:20 .Document.tar.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  158 Jun  2 17:21 .GIFs.tar.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  161 Jun  2 17:21 .Media.tar.aux.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  159 Jun  2 17:21 .Media.tar.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  161 Jun  2 17:20 .Media_1.tar.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  168 Jun  2 17:20 .Ranking.sqlite.enc.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  168 Jun  2 17:20 .Sticker.sqlite.enc.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  162 Jun  2 17:21 .Stickers.tar.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  167 Jun  2 17:21 .Thumbnail.tar.aux.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  163 Jun  2 17:21 .Thumbnail.tar.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  167 Jun  2 17:21 .Thumbnail_1.tar.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  172 Jun  2 17:20 .UserDefaults.plist.enc.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  161 Jun  2 17:20 .calls.log.enc.icloud
-rw-r--r--@  1 pse  staff  177 Jun  2 17:20 .current_wallpaper.jpg.enc.icloud

You can make a copy of this folder (cp -r)

Technically these are just Apple binary property lists:

$ plutil -p .calls.log.enc.icloud
{
  "NSURLFileResourceTypeKey" => "NSURLFileResourceTypeRegular"
  "NSURLFileSizeKey" => 1411
  "NSURLNameKey" => "calls.log.enc"
}

The quest to find the actual data still goes on :-)

What's App is linked to a phone number, not to a particular device, so normally, nothing weird should happen.
If you want to be absolutely sure, copy those backups you don't want to lose to some other place. (that's what I would do) ;-)


Recovery HD tries to delete itself My configuration of Mavericks-Ubuntu-Windows has gone nuts, so I deleted the windows partition and rebooted to Recovery HD to try and reformat the whole HD. Recovery HD at first appeared in disk utility, so I've done this trick -asr adjust --target /dev/disk0s3 -settype "Apple_Boot" but I still suspect its trying to delete itself because when I try to repartition the HD to 1 partition there's an error of "Couldn't unmount disk".How can I trace this error? Or how can I get Recovery HD to not try and delete itself?Thanks!

Did a full format and install from internet recovery (⌘+R)- worked perfectly!

If I understand correctly, the issue is that Disk Utility can't modify partition tables that contain linux partitions.  You may be able to make the change with gparted from a linux rescue disk but that has other limitations I don't recall.


How to make SSD Drive bootable from a disk utilies restore My mid-2009 mac book pro hard drive is dying so I bought an SSD to replace it.  I tried plugging in the ssd drive to the mac via a usb to sata connection and using SuperDuper to copy the contents (saw a video and it looked easy), but it took forever and I got a generic input output error.  Next I tried restoring from a time machine backup to the ssd drive.  picture an external hard drive with the time machine backup connected to my mac book via usb and my ssd drive connected to the mac book pro via usb. I went into Apple Disk Utilities and did a restore from the external hard drive to the ssd drive.  It took about 16 hours, but it completed.  So now I have 2 drives with the same information - at least I think.  I wanted the ssd drive to be bootable, but it's not.  Can someone explain what a restore really does and how I can make the ssd drive bootable so that I can replace the dying, old mac book hd.  Note: I want to make the ssd drive internal and not keep it as a bootable external drive.  Thanks!

Steps I followed to solve:
Downloaded El Capitan to Ssd drive
Removed old drive replaced with SSD drive
Ran migration utility from time machine backup
Rebooted and working great. Thanks for the help!


Silverlight Plug-In in Safari 12 is there any way to enable the Silverlight Plug-In in Safari 12? I need this plug in to watch a live sport event.

Thanks!

is there any way to enable the Silverlight Plug-In in Safari 12?

No, there is no way to make the current version of the Silverlight plugin work with Safari 12.

As of today, no actively supported web browser on macOS can run the current Silverlight plugin (neither Safari, Chrome nor Firefox, see below for more information). The culprit is the technology the plugin is based on: NPAPI, which has been deprecated in all major browsers because of security concerns, the latest of them being Safari with version 12.

This means that you must use an unsupported browser, with all the risks that entails.

If you insist on using Silverlight on macOS, I think your "safest" bet would be Firefox 52 ESR for that specific sports site. You can download it from Mozilla's release repository.

Firefox 52 ESR has been replaced with Firefox 60 ESR, but its latest version is somewhat recent, released on June 25 2018.

As explained above, neither Safari 12, Chrome version 45 or later nor Firefox 52 or later support NPAPI plugins, with the exception of Adobe Flash.

I got the browser SeaMonkey and Microsoft Silverlight 5 worked on there.


Is there a simple UI hack to auto-hide the menu, but keep the menubar? I never use the menu items but I'd like to put more icons in the menubar itself.

The (application contextual) menu items are useless to me without keyboard navigation, but they take half of the menubar, I'd love to just get rid of them.

I'm wondering if there's a simple hack to get rid of all the menu items except for the apple icon (and maybe the current app name)?

Thanks

Yes there is, and it's free :)

I asked this same question on reddit a few months ago and the amazing @w0lfchild (dev of mySimbl) created it!

https://github.com/w0lfschild/moreMenu

Check the app Bartender. Also, for most Apps you can disable the menubar icon if you check the preferences.


Can Facebook read my calendar on iOS? My iOS calendar is synced with a caldav server. If I set up my Facebook account in the iOS settings to also see Facebook events, can Facebook also read my other calendar events?

No facebook wont see your calendar. it doesn't work like that.


Do I really need to configure each subfolder in my Exchange inbox for push on an iPhone? I have an iPhone 5 running iOS 7. I have an Exchange inbox with at least a dozen subfolders and server-side rules that "pre-sort" mail to these subfolders. If I want to receive push notifications for these subfolders (and I do), I have to configure this for every single subfolder. When I add new folders in Outlook, I need to remember to add it on my phone.

Is there a way to tell the iOS mail client to push all subfolders of a given inbox automatically?

The answer appears to be no, and it is a longstanding issue.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts1868
https://discussions.apple.com/message/23132172#23132172
https://discussions.apple.com/message/8516130#8516130

If you are using the native mail app yes you can do this in IOS. In Settings > mail,contacts, calendars > fetch new data > Exchange is a list of all folders and only inbox will be checked for pushed folders. Select the folders you want auto pushed and you should be all set.


Read .pages files in Windows I used a Mac from about 2008 to 2012. I uploaded .pages files on to Dropbox and have since lost access to this Mac, but I have access to the Dropbox where the files are. I am currently using Windows 10 and would like to read these on my Windows machine.

However, all the fixes I've looked up seem to rely on viewing some kind of Preview.pdf by converting the .pages to a .zip. My machine actually auto downloads these .pages files off dropbox as a .zip automatically, however in the QuickLook folder there's only a thumbnail.jpg. No preview. Aside from that there's some kind of index.xml.gz and Pkginfo. Is there any way to be able to read this old file?

Well, it's not exactly a solution, more of a workaround, but Google Docs now read .pages files and will in many instances be able to show the contents. It depends on what version and how complex the .pages documents are.

The current version of Pages will be able to open Pages '09 files if you have a Mac owning friend.

Thirdly, if you rename the file extension to zip, and unzip them, you will see a preview of the contents that can be of some use to you.


How to uninstall Canon IJ Network Scanner? I got rid of a Canon all-in-one printer/scanner, but how can I get rid of the Canon IJ Network Scanner (and other Canon softwares that might have been installed) on my Mac? It is not showing in Applications.

Additional Canon software is installed in /Library/Printers/Canon. You can use Shift-Cmd-G in Finder to open a Finder window for that folder.

I would use a great mac app called App Cleaner, you just drag the icon to the window and it deletes all files associated with it.

https://www.google.com/#q=app+cleaner


How do you use an existing AppleID on iOS App Store without providing a credit card number? I already have an Apple ID, made at Apple.com. Now, when I want to access the App Store from my iPad, I am told that I have to review my information. On the credit card page, I am not presented with a "None" option, even though I am in the United States.

What can I do to proceed without entering this information?

You need to do the following when at the Credit Card page

Click on Paypal
Click on 'To redeem a code, click here'

From this new workflow, you will be able to get to the same page with the 'None' option

Go to apple store, for example look for Youtube app, which is free app, you will be prompted to sign in, create new account under icloude, follow the on screen instruction, on account and billing screen, choose the "none" option,and submit the form you are done. so easy and straight forward.


SD card slot is always read-only I have a 4 GB Micro SDHC card and I use a Micro SD adapter sleeve to read it with the built-in SD card slot of my 15" mid-2010 MacBook Pro. It's been a while since I tried to use it, but I just realized that my Mac will always treat it as read-only, no matter the position of the physical lock on the adapter sleeve.

I can't even format the partition because all the options in the "Erase" and "Partition" tabs of Disk Utility are grayed out for the SD card.

Why is the card read-only, and more importantly, how can I write to it?

In my case, a physical misalignment is causing the read only status. Gently pushing the disk away from the display reliably makes my cards write again.

Open Disk Utility, find and select the SD card, then click Repair Disk from the First Aid tab. You should now be able to read and write.


Trying to find how to have FaceTime Last July I went on a holiday to Dubai and have bought my very first iPhone from there, the Gold iPhone 6 plus. Recently I decided to start using Facetime but for some reason I cannot find the app. I am using my iPhone in Malta, in the middle of the Mediterranean with a Vodafone carrier.

Can anyone please show or explain how can I have FaceTime on my phone?

I tried finding various videos on YouTube but could not find the right one.

FaceTime is not available for iPhones purchased in the United Arab Emirates.

@jaume answered this question here: FaceTime not working on iPhone 6 Plus purchased from Dubai

I have the iPhone6 plus, I don't have an App for FaceTime, I added FaceTime access in contacts. (only works to other iPhone users)


Resizing/moving windows with keypress and mouse in Mac OS X A few years ago I remember a friend using an application in Ubuntu that made window management extremely easy. If you wanted to move the active window, you would press a key and drag the window by clicking anywhere on the window. If you wanted to resize the active window (proportionally), you would press a key and turn the wheel. I think this is very intuitive way to resize and move a window.

Are there any free applications for Mac OS X that can utilize similar mechanics?

Afloat does moving and resizing as explained, and does more than that. I really loved this application.

Not exactly what you want but:

zooming is build-in OS X. Go to System preferences -> Mouse  and check "Zoom while scroll wheel while holding Controll". After this you can zoom any part of the screen with CTRL+scrollwheel. It is not an "window zoom" but screen zoom - but sometimes helpful.


Pros and cons of wiping a new Mac? Coming from the PC world, most made-to-order manufacturers (e.g., Dell, HP, Acer, etc.) all have annoying little addons which I consider spyware/bloatware--things like toolbars with ads. When buying such PC laptops, I would always reformat their hard drives and then install just Windows (and drivers), ensuring a blank slate without any bloat.

I don't believe Apple includes such spyware/bloatware. Nevertheless, when purchasing a new machine direct from Apple, are there are any advantages or disadvantages to wiping the existing drive and performing a fresh install of OS X?

There isn't any advantage to wiping and reinstalling OS X on a new Mac direct from Apple.  You'll end up with the exact same drive contents.  I can't think of any difference between an Apple-imaged Mac and a self-imaged Mac.

Wiping the disk could disable the software necessary to implement FileVault 2, Apple's method of full disk encryption.


View App Store Download Progress (Downloading Maverick) I'm downloading Mavericks on my Lion, but I don't know how to see the progress. When I go to the purchases tab on the app store, I see a blank button:

Try rebooting.
Quit App Store, open Launchpad, find the partial download of Mavericks installer and click it. This usually resumes a download that was interrupted/paused.
Reset App Store by clicking Reset Application from the debug menu, then reboot and try again.

You can enable the debug menu by running the following command:

defaults write com.apple.appstore ShowDebugMenu -bool true

Go to AppStore and click on Updates at the top.. You will find it.. Simple!!


How do I disable Wi-Fi roaming? (disable autoconnecting to the strongest AP) I can't find a way to disable Wi-Fi roaming on my Mac so I can connect to a specific AP and stay associated to it without roaming to the strongest AP. Is there any way I can do that?

My MacOS version is High Sierra 10.13.2.

I have already tried all airport JoinMode settings ( /System/Library/PrivateFrameworks/Apple80211.framework/Versions/Current/Resources/airport prefs JoinMode) and the "airport-bssid" tool that is available on GitHub, and both solutions didn't work.

It is sort of possible to do but the wording is not clear.

If you open System Preferences > Network and click on the WiFi icon on the left side of the Network Preferences window you will see two checkboxes below the Network Name pop-up menu. On my Mac it looks like this.

For your situation I would select your preferred network from the Network Name pop-up menu, and check both checkboxes so that it will auto-join your preferred network and force your Mac to ask to join other ones.

That is the only way I know to even get close to the settings you need without 3rd party software.