# Additive Manufacturing in the Clothing Industry: Towards Sustainable New Business Models
## 2 Literature Review
### Sustainability in the Clothing and Fashion Industry  
According to the _Oxford English Dictionary_, fashion is \"a popular style of cloth, hair, etc. at a particular time or place; the state of being popular\" [26]. The online Encyclopaedia Britannica defines the \"fashion industry\" as a \"multibillion-dollar global enterprise devoted to the business of making and selling clothes. Some observers distinguish between the fashion industry (which makes 'high fashion') and the apparel industry (which makes ordinary clothes or'mass fashion'), but by the 1970s the boundaries between them had blurred\" [27]. It continues to describe the components of the fashion industry as \"... the design, manufacturing, distribution, marketing, retailing, advertising, and promotion of all types of apparel (men's, women's, and children's)... \" [27]. The fashion industry \"is characterized by short product life cycles, volatile and unpredictable demand, tremendous product variety, long and inflexible supply processes, and a complex supply chain\" [28; 29]. The textile industry, however, is concerned with the preparation of cloth and fabric through weaving, knitting, bleaching, and dyeing [30]. Merriam-Webster defines garment as \"an article of clothing\", while defining apparel as \"clothing of a particular kind\" and defining clothing as \"garments in general\" [31]. Thus, in this research, clothing, garment and apparel are used indistinctively. According to [PERSON] [32], the clothing industry is responsible for the transformation of fabrics into products such as garments, textile floor coverings, home textiles, and industrial textiles. From a supply chain point of view, high in the upstream supply chain, we have the fiber producers using either natural or synthetic materials. The textile mills are the second layer, in which raw fiber is spun, woven, or knitted into fabric. The third layer of the supply chain includes the apparel and industrial textile manufacturers. The fourth and final layer consists of retailers that sell textile products [28]. Therefore, the fashion industry (consisting of high fashion and mass fashion) is the overarching industry that encompasses the clothing industry [33]. The number of studies investigating the various aspects of sustainability in the fashion and clothing industries is increasing partly due to the elevated attention to unsustainable consumption behaviors, and fast-fashion business models. [PERSON] et al. [34], in a systematic literature review, identified four themes including drivers, barriers, practices, and indicators of sustainable performance when applying a circular economy in the textile industry. Moreover, they determined the relationship between the four themes. In another literature review conducted by [PERSON] et al. [35], encompassing 45 articles published in English peer-reviewed journals, they assessed the sustainable supply chain management in the textile and apparel industry. Their findings showed that \"a company's internal orientation is the main assisting factor in sustainable supply chain management practices\". They also concluded that supplier collaboration and assessment can present themselves as a strategy by focal companies to manage social risk [35]. [PERSON] and [PERSON] [36] explored \"a set of institutional, organizational, and individual drivers of and barriers to the integration of sustainability into the corporate strategy of a European textile and clothing company.\" They identified six drivers of and 10 barriers to sustainability integration in European clothing companies. Their results suggested the need for a strong integration of sustainability measures into the corporate strategy and daily tasks to achieve success in implementation [36]. [PERSON] et al. [37] studied the influence of three variables, including the firm size, location, and value chain position, on the adoption of CSR practices by textile firms in Brazil and China. Their findings suggested that the country in which a firm is located strongly influences CSR adoption.