## 3 Results
### Wind-Generated Waves  
Following the knowledge from the location of interest, two relevant wave incident directions have been identified, SE and SSW. The reason for the selection of those two incident directions relies on three facts: (i) longest possible fetch lengths compared to other incident directions, (ii) longest wind duration and wind velocities and (iii) relative position of the shoreline almost perpendicular to the incident directions. Table 4 offers the highest significant wave height equal to 2.78 m with a corresponding period of 4.76 s. For the SSW incident direction, Table 5 shows the highest wave parameters equal to 2.35 m and 4.15 s.  
The procedure for wave height determination at the distance of 4 m offshore starts with known wind velocity and duration. For the selected incident wave direction and fetch length, deep wave parameters have been selected from Tables 4 and 5. For the purpose of wave height determination in front of the shoreline, the JONSWAP spectrum is used to incorporate a real wave into the wave transform model. Spectrum parameters have been set up as shown in Table 6, where the obtained deep water wave values correspond to a 100-year return period.  
Wave height spatial distribution and direction for the SE incident wave direction is presented in Figure 11. Insight into the inner zone of interest discovers the presence of refraction as a main wave transform mechanism. The insight into significant wave height changes at 4 m offshore is shown in Figures 12 and 13. The same has been shown for the SSW incident direction in Figures 12 and 13. By comparing modeled wave heights, it is obvious the SE incident direction results in more significant wave height values.  
\begin{table}
\begin{tabular}{c c c c c} \hline \hline
**Incident Direction** & **Hs (m)** & **T (s)** & \(\gamma\) & **nn** \\ \hline SE (165\({}^{\circ}\)) & 3.05 & 6.40 & 3.30 & 4.00 \\ SSW (202.5\({}^{\circ}\)) & 2.60 & 5.90 & 3.30 & 4.00 \\ \hline \hline \end{tabular}
\end{table}
Table 6: Deepwater wave parameters—JONSWAP spectrum parameters.  
\begin{table}
\begin{tabular}{c c c c c c c c c} \hline \hline
**V (ms\({}^{-1}\))** & **t (h)** & **F\({}_{min}\) (km)** & **t\({}_{min}\) (h)** & **F\({}_{EFF}\) (km)** & **F\({}_{MJ}\) (km)** & **H\({}_{S}\) (m)** & **T\({}_{S}\) (s)** & **L\({}_{0}\) (m)** \\ \hline
**1.5** & 13 & 43.36 & 8.65 & 24.8 & 24.8 & & & 0 \\
**3.3** & 13 & 71.25 & 6.02 & 24.8 & 24.8 & & & 0 \\
**5.4** & 13 & 97.17 & 4.8 & 24.8 & 24.8 & 0.5 & 2.6 & 10.55 \\
**7.9** & 13 & 123.48 & 4.03 & 24.8 & 24.8 & 0.85 & 3.15 & 15.49 \\
**10.7** & 17 & 215.89 & 3.5 & 24.8 & 24.8 & 1.21 & 3.65 & 20.8 \\
**13.8** & 15 & 213.49 & 3.12 & 24.8 & 24.8 & 1.7 & 4 & 24.98 \\
**17.1** & 11 & 159.77 & 2.82 & 24.8 & 24.8 & 2.19 & 4.35 & 29.54 \\
**20.7** & 4 & 45.07 & 2.59 & 24.8 & 24.8 & 2.78 & 4.76 & 35.38 \\ \hline \hline \end{tabular}
\end{table}
Table 4: Deepwater wave parameters—incident direction SE.  
\begin{table}
\begin{tabular}{c c c c c c c c} \hline \hline
**V (ms\({}^{-1}\))** & **t (h)** & **F\({}_{min}\) (km)** & **t\({}_{min}\) (h)** & **F\({}_{EFF}\) (km)** & **F\({}_{MJ}\) (km)** & **H\({}_{S}\) (m)** & **T\({}_{S}\) (s)** & **L\({}_{0}\) (m)** \\ \hline
**1.5** & 5 & 11.71 & 6.68 & 17.4 & 11.71 & & & 0 \\
**3.3** & 5 & 19.24 & 4.65 & 17.4 Figure 11: Wave heights and directions for the SE incident direction—local study area.  
Figure 12: Wave heights and directions for the SSW incident direction—local study area.