# Research on Waterless Cosmetics in the Form of Scrub Bars Based on Natural Exfoliants
###### Abstract  
Scrub bars are an innovative alternative to traditional liquid, semi-liquid, and oily body scrubs. Through the elimination of water from their formulas, they align with the current 'waterless' trend in the cosmetics market[PERSON] The aims of this study were to create anhydrous formulations for body scrub bars and to assess their physical, chemical, and sensory characteristics depending on the type of exfoliant added. A total of five solid body scrub formulations were developed using different natural exfoliants: sugar, microcrystalline cellulose, ground coffee beans, corn granules, and sodium chloride. The shape and dimensions of the exfoliant particles were characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The formulations were subjected to texturometric tests. The final products underwent color assessment along with a consumer evaluation of sensory appeal. The test results showed that the body scrubs exhibiting the highest hardness and adhesive force were those containing exfoliants with small particles, either angular (sodium chloride) or subrounded (_Coffea arabic sed powder_) in shape. Conversely, the lowest hardness was determined for the product formulated with the addition of an exfoliant with well-rounded particles (microcrystalline cellulose). Among the exfoliants tested, microcrystalline cellulose proved to be the most suitable for body scrubs, demonstrating superior texture and exfoliating effectiveness[PERSON] However, cosmetics containing ground coffee received the highest esthetic ratings. Coffee gave the product a natural color and an appealing ascent, as judged by the testers. osmetics; solid scrub; natural exfoliants; SEM; texture; color evaluation; sensory analysis Article Research on Waterless Cosmetics in the Form of Scrub Bars Based on Natural Exfoliants  
[PERSON], [PERSON]; [PERSON], [PERSON]; [PERSON], [PERSON]; [PERSON] [PERSON]; [PERSON], [PERSON]. cosmetics industry, scientific papers related to this topic have also been published in the literature. In their study, [PERSON] et al. [2] introduced a waterless mask formulation based on a surface-modified biocarbon composite which successfully achieves skin cleansing and exfoliation while prioritizing environmental sustainability[PERSON] In turn, [PERSON] et al. [7] conducted two studies to compare a novel anhydrous antiseptic formulation based on chlorhexiidine gluconate/ethanol and embilient with a conventional water-based reference product[PERSON] The findings from assessments conducted by experts and test subjects, as well as instrumentation-based tests, consistently indicated that the anhydrous product was gentler on the skin compared to the conventional water-based formulation. In their study, [PERSON] et al. [8] developed sustainable formulations for a shampoo bar containing mango peel extracts as antioxidants, eliminating the need for water and plastic packaging, and repurposing waste from the food industry. Waterless formulations also offer several other benefits, such as decreased microbial growth and reduced reliance on preservatives. Furthermore, these solutions help decrease the unit weight of cosmetic products, simplifying packaging. They also eliminate the need for plastic packaging and streamline storage and supply chain logistics. Examples of this category of cosmetics include innovative waterless mousse masks developed by [PERSON] et al. [9]. The products are formulated without water and contain solely fatty raw materials and a disintegrator. However, when applied, they combine with water to form a mousse, which is easier to apply and spread on the skin. Conventional scrub products that rely on the process of physical exfoliation are typically available in the form of emulsions or gels. Their purpose is to cleanse the skin, accelerate epidermal regeneration, eliminate imperfections, and enhance skin firmness and smoothness. These formulations contain surfactants with cleansing properties, rheology modifiers, emulsifiers, and various types of additives, such as moisturizers and emollients [10, 11].