## 3 Results  
Development of Micellar and Solvent Loan Chemical Extraction for Obtaining Cosmetically Valuable Compounds from Grapevine Buds  
In this work, LCE was used to prepare grapevine bud extracts for model facial serums. Developing an effective extraction medium with ingredients mirroring those intended for the final product was a fundamental objective of this study. Two final cosmetic compositions were developed either based on surfactants or on the organic solvent solution. A surfactant mixture, specifically polyglyceryl-4 laurate/sebacate and polyglyceryl-6 acrylate/caprate, was chosen for its ability to form micelles--associative aggregates in aqueous solutions. The formation of micelles provides a favorable environment in the bulk phase wherein hydrophobic substances can be effectively solubilized. Consequently, this type of system was employed in the micellar extraction process to isolate bioactive compounds from grapevine buds. A mixture of polyglyceryl-4 laurate/sebacate and polyglyceryl-6 caprylate/caprate is a naturally derived solubilizer known for facilitating the incorporation of a broad range of lipophilic ingredients into clear formulations. In this study, a concentration of 4% wt. % of this surfactant was employed to prepare the micellar-extraction medium. In order to confirm the presence of micelles in solution at the concentration used, surface tension measurements were carried out at different concentrations of the surfactant system to determine the CMC value. As shown in Figure 1, the surface tension of the surfactant mixture decreased with an increasing concentration expressed on a logarithmic scale. When the critical concentration was reached, the surface tension achieved a plateau, indicatingthat micelles were formed. The CMC value for the polyglycerol-4 laurate/sebacate and polyglyceryl-6 caprylate/caprate mixture was determined from the inflection point on the plot of surface tension versus the logarithm of concentration. According to the obtained results, it was found that micellization occurred at a surfactant concentration of 0.012 wt. %. It is important to note that the surfactant concentration of 4 wt. % used in the extraction medium for LCE significantly exceeded the CMC by more than 300 times. This careful consideration of surfactant concentration and micelle formation ensures the efficacy of the extraction process, confirming the suitability of the chosen surfactant system for the micellar-extraction medium. The significant exceedance of CMC via the selected surfactant concentration suggests that the threshold required for effective micelle formation is achieved, thus further emphasizing the effectiveness of the selected extraction medium in solubilizing lipophilic components from the plant material. For comparison, naturally derived 1,3-propanediol was used for the solvent LCE process. The 1,3-propanediol was chosen as an environmentally sustainable and skin-friendly compound. Within a controlled laboratory setting, grapevine buds were obtained and subjected to extraction. The plant material under investigation is presented in Figure 2.  
The milled and powdered grapevine buds were dispersed in either a micellar or solvent-extraction medium resulting in the generation of SurfE and SolvE extracts, respectively. These extracts were subjected to comprehensive characterization to unveil the profile and activity of bioactive compounds isolated from young buds through the LCE process. Subsequently, the extracts were incorporated into a model skincare cosmetic specifically designed as facial serums. This research involves the development and formulation of model natural skincare cosmetics, including the empirical verification of their functionality and skin safety parameters. The proposed innovative approach represents a significant advance in the landscape of cosmetic manufacturing, highlighting the potential of LCE and grapevine buds in the development of natural and effective skincare products.