# From Forest Berry Leaf Waste to Micellar Extracts with Cosmetic Applications
## 1 Introduction  
Berry plants, particularly their fruit, have long been utilized in the food industry (e.g., juices, jams, and ice cream), the pharmaceutical sector (e.g., syrups and ointments), and the cosmetic industry (e.g., scrubs and masks). With growing interest in plant-derived raw materials, there is an increasing need to use not only the primary industrial parts of plants (e.g., fruit) but also the parts typically considered by-products or even waste (e.g., leaves, roots, and rhizomes) [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]. A significant potential for application in the cosmetics industry and cosmeology lies in wild strawberry, blackberry, and blueberry extracts, thanks to their chemical composition and associated properties [6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14]. Wild strawberry (_Fragaria vesca_) is a low-growing perennial plant, reaching up to 20 cm in height, with very short, hairy stems from which leaves emerge. The edible part of _Fragaria vesca_ is its fruit, which contains seeds. _Fragaria vesca_ is found across Europe, northern Asia, and North America, predominantly growing in forests and along their edges [7]. Wild strawberry fruit, prized for its flavor, nutritional value, and dietary benefits, is primarily utilized as a raw material in the food industry [7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14]. _Fragaria vesca_ is recognized for its high content of phenolic compounds (including tannins, anthocyanins,flavonoids, and phenolic acids), contributing to antioxidant and protective properties, including benefits for the skin [9]. Wild strawberry fruit is a source of micro- (Ca, Mg, P, K, and N) and macronutrients (Cu, Mn, Fe, S, and Zn) [15], while the seeds of the plant yield oil rich in fatty acids, including alpha-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, and oleic acid [7]. Wild strawberry leaves contain tannins, flavonoids, vitamins (A, C, B1, B2, B6, E, H, and PP), and small amounts of essential oils. In contrast, the fruit is high in carotenoids, anthocyanins, sugars, and organic acids [9]. The literature highlights its anti-inflammatory, anticancer, anti-angiogenic, and anti-aging properties, among other benefits [8; 10; 11]. Moreover, the research conducted by [PERSON] et al. confirmed that an extract obtained from the leaves of _Fragaria vesca_ had emollient, antiseptic, and protective effects on the skin [16]. Blackberry (_Rubus fruticosus_) is a thorny shrub with an average height of 2 m. _Rubus fruticosus_ thrives in forests, along roadsides, and in open areas. Blackberry plants flower from late May through autumn, while the fruiting period lasts from mid-August to November. Blackberry fruit is composed of interconnected structures, known as drupelets, which are fused together [17]. _Rubus fruticosus_ is found across Asia, North and South America, Europe, and Oceania [18]. It is a valued source of fiber, flavonoids, polyphenols, tannins, anthocyanins, glycosides, and terpen. _Rubus fruticosus_ is also rich in vitamins (A, C, E, and K) and minerals (Ca, Fe, Se, P, Mg, Mn, and Zn) [18; 19]. What is more, blackberry exhibits antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antiviral properties. This plant is also known to have anticancer, antidiabetic, and antidiarrheal effects [19; 20; 21; 22; 23; 24]. While blackberry fruit is primarily used in food processing (e.g., jams, juices, syrups, and ice cream) [19], both fresh and dried blackberry leaves are utilized in various applications, including tea production [19]. From a cosmetic perspective, the findings of [PERSON] et al. [20] are particularly valuable. The authors successfully incorporated blackberry extract into a cosmetic cream, with their study findings suggesting that the extract could serve as a beneficial ingredient in anti-aging cosmetics and products designed to sothe irritated skin [20]. European blueberry (_Vaccinium myrtillus_), also known as bilberry, is a plant typically found in pine and spruce forests across Europe, Asia, and North America [22]. It is a shrub that typically grows to several dozen centimeters in height, flowering between April and June.