## 2 Bioferments
### Biological Activity of Bioferments
#### 2.3.1 Anti-Wrinkle and Antioxidant Activities
DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) and ABTS (2,2\({}^{\prime}\)-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothazoline-6-sulfonic acid) tests showed a greater antioxidant capacity of ferment than the extract itself. Particularly the highest antioxidant activity was detected for the ferment obtained using _L. paraplantarum_ (AMI-1101). Additionally, the tested ferment increased production of hyaluronic acid (HA), aquaporin 3 (AQP 3), and filaggrin (FLG) (Table 1) [28]. The anti-aging potential of red ginseng and its ferment obtained using _L. brevis_ were compared. The bioferment showed a higher concentration of flavonoids, polyphenols, anduronic acid, which resulted in higher antioxidant activity. Tyrosine and elastase inhibition studies showed higher activity in favor of the bioferment. In a skin irritation test performed on guinea pigs, 10% red ginseng and 10% bioferment were characterized as practically non-irritating. These results suggested that the red ginseng ferment presented anti-aging properties with high safety of use (Table 1) [29]. _Radix astragali_ was fermented with _Bacillus subtilis natto_ and compared with the un-fermented extract. Studies on human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) showed that the ferment enhanced collagen biosynthesis, which is partly due to the induction of mitogenic activity and influenced the regulation of procollagen biosynthesis induced by the expression of TGF-\(\beta\)1. Based on the conducted studies, it can be concluded that the _Radix astragali_ bioferment is an ingredient that delays the skin-aging process [30]. Similar studies were carried out on the effect of _Astragalus membranancus_ ferment, obtained with the use of _B. subtilis natto_, on the keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) and skin fibroblasts (HDF). Bioferment stimulated the growth of keratinocytes and fibroblasts and increased the production of hyaluronic acid (HA). In cells treated with bioferment, the expression of hyaluron synthase 2 and 3 increased, depending on the dose (Table 1) [31]. The studies of _Fructus arctii_ ferment obtained using _Grifola frondosa_ were conducted on human fibroblasts (HDF) to assessed anti-aging activity. Bioferment was applied to HDF cells and exposed to UVA radiation. Studies have shown decreased expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). Bioferment also stimulated collagen biosynthesis. The studies indicated that _Fructus arctii_ ferment may have applications in sunscreen and anti-aging products (Table 1) [32]. [PERSON] et al. [33] conducted studies on the anti-aging effect of creans containing _Macocystis pyrifera_ (macroulga). The fermentation process of _M. pyrifera_ combined with other ingredients (such as vitamin E, \(\beta\)-carotene) took 3-4 months. In preclinical studies using skin models and keratinocyte cultures isolated from a 62-year-old female, the ferment demonstrated a type I collagen-strengthening effect. In addition, ferment-treated skin cells migrated faster than untreated cells. Two clinical trials were conducted on a total of 101 women aged 39-75 years. Creans with _M. pyrifera_ ferment were applied for a period of 12 weeks. Patients experienced a reduction in erythema, an improvement in various skin parameters (i.e., fine lines and wrinkles, redness, skin texture, tone, radiance, and firmness), as well as an increased levels of hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were reported (Table 1) [33]. [PERSON] et al. [34] examined the anti-aging effect of fermented leaf extracts of _Rubus frticosus_ L., _Vaccinum myrtillus_ L., _Ribes nigrum_ L., and _Fragaria vesca_ L. Fermentations were carried out using kombucha starter cultures. Assessment of collagenase and elastase inhibition was performed using a fluorometric kit. The study showed that kombucha fermions from studied leaves contribute to the inhibition of collagenase and elastase activity. The study conducted on five volunteers showed that all tested extracts and fermentations showed a reduction in TEWL levels, an increase in skin hydration levels, and had a beneficial effect on skin pH.