## 3 Results
### \"Il Casanova\"
In this case, the embedded metal foil was directly interwoven with other fibers to build up the textile. The sample from the golden lame (Figure S4, Supplementary Materials) on the corset decoration (sample C11) presented a different appearance, since only the metallic leaf was visible under the microscope and SEM morphological analysis, while no polymeric layer was evident. The metallic leaf is composed of copper and zinc. The uneven presence of chlorinated compounds on the metal layer was highlighted by SEM with elemental analysis (Figure S5c, Supplementary Materials). Both spectroscopic and pyrolysis-based analyses point to an acrylic polymer as a varnish applied on the metal foil. The intense bands ascribable to C-O (1261 cm\({}^{-1}\) and 1047 cm\({}^{-1}\)), C-O-C asymmetric and symmetric stretching (1240 cm\({}^{-1}\) and 1160 cm\({}^{-1}\)), and C=O (1730 cm\({}^{-1}\)) typical of molecules containing ester groups are consistent with an acrylic polymer [52; 55]. The pyrolytic profile highlighted the  
Figure 4: Different types of metal threads: (**a**) photograph of sample C10 under the optical microscope, 18\(\times\); (**b**) SEM image of the cross section of sample C10; (**c**) photograph under UV light of the cross section of sample C10, 20\(\times\); (**d**) photograph of sample C14 under the optical microscope, 18\(\times\); (**e**) SEM image of a side view of sample C14; (**f**) photograph under UV light of the cross section of sample C14, 10\(\times\). presence of a polymer based on n-butylmethylacrylate (identified due to an intense peak at \(\mathfrak{t}_{\text{R}}=9.0\) min and labeled as #3 in Figure 3e) [49]. An acrylic resin was also used to varnish sample C14, made of silver and copper (decoration of the hat, interwoven with a black thread, Figure S5b, Supplementary Materials). The observation under the microscope also highlighted the delamination of the varnish from the metallic layer (Figure 4d-f). The high quality of the metal blend is consistent with that of the black thread used for the decoration of the hat, which was made of silk (sample C5). \begin{table}
\begin{tabular}{c c c c} \hline \hline
**Wavenumber (cm\({}^{-1}\))** & **Vibrational Modes** & **Wavenumber (cm\({}^{-1}\))** & **Vibrational Modes** \\ \hline \multicolumn{3}{c}{**Sample C2**} & \multicolumn{3}{c}{**Sample C11**} \\ \hline
3320 & v OH & 3347 & vOH \\
2923 & v\({}_{\text{a}}\) CH\({}_{2}\) & 2956, 2923 & v\({}_{\text{a}}\) CH\({}_{2}\) \\
2854 & v\({}_{\text{s}}\) CH\({}_{2}\) & 2854 & v\({}_{\text{s}}\) CH\({}_{2}\) \\
1745 & v C=O & 2314 & superior harmonic of NH \\
1640 & \(\delta\) OH (bound water) & 1730 & v C=O \\
1465, 1317 & v C–C (aromatic ring) & 1652 & \(\delta\) OH (bound water) \\
1413 & \(\delta_{\text{a}}\) CH\({}_{2}\) (in-plane), \(\delta_{\text{a}}\) C-O-H & 1594, 1546, 1465 & v C–C (aromatic ring) \\
1261, 1157 & v C-O & 1413 & \(\delta\) CH\({}_{2}\) (in-plane, aromatic ring) \\
1027 & \(\delta\) CH (in-plane, aromatic ring) & 1317 & v C-C \\
890, 811 & \(\delta\) CH (out-of-plane, aromatic ring) & 1261 & v C-O \\ \hline \multicolumn{3}{c}{**Sample C8**} & 1240 & v\({}_{\text{a}}\) C-C-O \\ \hline
3367 & v OH & 1160 & v\({}_{\text{a}}\) C-O-C \\
2956, 2923 & v\({}_{\text{a}}\) CH\({}_{2}\) & 1047 & v C-O \\
2854 & v\({}_{\text{s}}\) CH\({}_{2}\) & 995 & \(\delta\) CH (in-plane, aromatic ring) \\
1730 & v C=O & 674 & \(\delta\) CH (out-of-plane, aromatic ring) \\
1640 & \(\delta\) OH bound water) & & \\
1461, 1413 & \(\delta_{\text{a}}\) CH\({}_{2}\) (in-plane) & & \\
1374 & \(\delta\) CH & & \\
1278, 1157, 1118 & v C-O & & \\
995, 890, 842 & \(\delta\) CH (out-of-plane, aromatic ring) & & \\
750, 673 & \(\omega\) C-H (aromatic ring) & & \\
842 & \(\delta\) C-O-H & & \\
723 & v C-O & & \\ \hline \hline \end{tabular}
\end{table} 
Table 1: Band assignment for the Attenuated Total Reflection- Fourier Transform Infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectra of samples C2, C8, and C11 reported in Figure 2.