## 2 Material and Methods
The buoy presents a main exposure angle optimized for wave directions somewhat different from that of study area; therefore, this study is based on an estimation of sea wave motion, based on the transferring of energy from wind to sea surface. The sites of installation of all sensors are reported in Figure 2.  
The marine sector where waves propagate before impacting the seawall of Via Partenope (Figure 1d) is characterized by a complex seabed morphology. The fluid dynamic processes affecting wave motion, depending on the local seabed morphology, sharply differs from the case of a sandy coast with a medium or low slope. The methodological approach applied in this study takes into account this situation. In detail, spilling breaking type and refraction phenomena have been considered absent or negligible. The three parameters involved in the process are wind speed, wind duration, and fetch length. In our analysis, Dorrstein nomogram [28] has been used. The most important wave parameters evaluated through the Dorrstein nomogram are H\({}_{\text{c}}\) (characteristic wave height) and T\({}_{\text{c}}\) (characteristic wave period). They are considered active up to the depth of \(-\)10 m and then undergo a breaking \begin{table}
\begin{tabular}{l l l l l} \hline \hline
**Parameter Name** & **Unit** & **Sensor Type** & **Description of Measured Parameter** \\ \hline Air temperature & \({}^{\circ}\)C & thermometer & air temperature \\ Relative humidity & \% & hygrometer & relative humidity \\ Wind speed & m s\({}^{-1}\) & anemometer & wind speed (average on last 10 min) \\ Gust speed & m s\({}^{-1}\) & anemometer & max gust speed during last 10 min \\ Wind direction & \({}^{\circ}\) & anemometer & prevalent direction of wind during last 10 min \\ Gust direction & \({}^{\circ}\) & anemometer & direction of maximum gust during last 10 min \\ Barometric & & site atmospheric pressure (average on 10 min) \\ pressure & hPa & barometer & adjusted to sea level \\ Rainfall amount & mm & pluviometer & rainfall amount (cumulated on 10 min) \\ Rainfall rate & mm & & max instantaneous rainfall rate during last \\  & h\({}^{-1}\) & pluviometer & 10 min \\ \hline \hline \end{tabular}
\end{table} 
Table 2: List of measured meteorological parameters in the CNR-ISMAR weather stations. \begin{table}
\begin{tabular}{l l l l l} \hline \hline
**Sensor** & **Parameter** & \begin{tabular}{l} **Data** \\ **Resolution** \\ **and Unit** \\ \end{tabular} & **Range** & **Accuracy** & \
\begin{tabular}{l} **Sampling** \\ **Rate** \\ \end{tabular} \\ \hline anemometer & wind speed &
\begin{tabular}{l} 0.5 m s\({}^{-1}\) \\ (0.97 knots) \\ \end{tabular} & 0–89 m s\({}^{-1}\) & \(\pm\)1 m s\({}^{-1}\) or 5\% & 3 s \\ anemometer & wind direction & 1\({}^{\circ}\) & 0–360\({}^{\circ}\) & \(\pm\)3\({}^{\circ}\) & 3 s \\ barometer & barometric & 0.1 hPa & 540–1100 hPa & \(\pm\)1 hPa & 1 min \\  & pressure & & & \\ hygrometer & relative humidity & 1\% & 1–100\% & \(\pm\)2\% & 1 min \\ rain gauge & rainfall amount & 0.25 mm & 0–999.8 mm & \(\pm\)4\% & 20–24 s \\ rain gauge & rainfall rate & 0.1 mm h\({}^{-1}\) & 0–2438 mm h\({}^{-1}\) & \(\pm\)5\% & 20–24 s \\ thermometer & air temperature & 0.1 \({}^{\circ}\)C & \(-\)40 to 65 \({}^{\circ}\)C & \(\pm\)0.3 \({}^{\circ}\)C & 10–12 s \\ \hline \hline \end{tabular}
\end{table} 
Table 3: Technical specifications of the sensors of the CNR-ISMAR meteorological station-model DAVIS Vantage Pro2. process as the depth decreases below \(-10\) m. As the breaking process occurs very close to the coast, the energy dissipation is not significant. Characteristic and significant wave motion are model descriptions useful to represent the real wave motion and can be adopted as proxies of the average effects produced by the wave process on coastal areas. As \"characteristic wave height H\({}_{\text{c}}\)\", we indicate the height of most developed waves appearing during the growth of the swell, characterized by relatively regular period and height.