# Kamchatka Berry (_Lonicera caerulea_ L.) Pomace Bioferment as an Innovative Cosmetic Raw Material
## 4 Discussion

Table 12: Results of the shock test for the base without bio-ferments and the shampoos with bio-ferments. extracts of lavender, have a free radical scavenging capacity (DPPH) of 90-93%, while synthetic BHA (hydroxybenzoic acid) has a free radical scavenging capacity (DPPH) of 95-98% [26; 27; 28; 29]. However, it is important to note that antioxidant activity varies from one natural resource to another. Furthermore, this factor is influenced by many other parameters such as climate and soil conditions or harvest time, which makes standardisation of natural products very difficult. Due to their ability to inhibit oxidation processes and the growth of microorganisms, including many pathogenic ones such as _Salmonella_ spp. and _Escherichia coli_, natural antioxidants are increasingly used as natural preservatives, e.g., in foods. In recent years, much evidence has been published that they increase the stability of edible oils, carotenoid colours and fruit juice flavourings, successfully replacing artificial preservatives and stabilisers. This is not only for environmental or economic reasons, but also because they have a positive impact on human health [30; 31]. Vitamins are used as active ingredients in cosmetic products. According to the Overview of Ingredients Used in Cosmetic Products, B vitamins are a group of water-soluble vitamins that are used in cosmetics for their beneficial properties in dermatological care (i.e., skin and hair conditioners, antiseborrheic, antistatic and embilient properties). As a result, these groups of compounds are included in cosmetic formulations as high value-added cosmetic ingredients. In addition to its dermatological properties, riboflavin (vitamin B2) can also be used as a cosmetic colouring agent and its maximum allowable concentration is limited by the European Cosmetics Regulation (EU Regulation 1223/2009) [32]. The vitamin C content of the biofermentable solid fraction of Kamchatka berry pomace increased dramatically (141%) compared to the pomace before the fermentation process. As one of the most potent antioxidants, vitamin C has been shown to protect the skin against photo-aging, UV-induced immunosuppression and photocarcinogenesis. It also has anti-ageing effects by increasing collagen synthesis, stabilising collagen fibres and reducing collagen degradation. It reduces the formation of melanin, thus reducing pigmentation, i.e., it acts as a bleaching agent and evens out skin tone. Vitamin C is the main complement to vitamin E and acts synergistically with vitamin E to protect against oxidative damage [33; 34]. The addition of the freeze-dried solid fraction of the Kamchatka berry pomace bioferment to cosmetic mass lowers the pH by 0.15 \(\pm\) 0.01. The pH of cosmetic products has an effect on the condition of the skin. It has been shown that a lower pH of cosmetics reduces water loss through the skin, supports the skin barrier and reduces peeling of the epidermis [35]. The chosen cosmetic base has a simple composition and does not contain aggressive cleansing agents such as SLS or SLES, as skin cleansing products containing mainly anionic surfactants can cause increased dryness and skin irritation [36]. The use of pomace may not only bring environmental benefits through its reduction but has also found its potential application in the cosmetics industry as a raw material for the production of valuable preparations. Further research and development in this field may open new perspectives for the use of Kamchatka berry marc as a valuable biologically active raw material.