TITLE: WaterBath
AUTHORS: bibewih  

[DESCRIPTION]
Instructions for creating a mock coastal environment using laboratory equipment and consumer products. This protocol covers the modification of the water bath with lights, heating and cooling. Electronic setup of controlling these heating and cooling systems are covered elsewhere on the project page. 

[STEPS]
SECTION: Heating pads
1. Turn water bath on its back to gain access to bottom panel. Remove bottom panel and insulation from underneath water bath to gain access to heating pad.
SECTION: Heating pads
2. Unscrew and thermometer from metal basin and peel off existing heating pad.
SECTION: Heating pads
3. Attach 3d printer heating pads to metal basin and guide wires through holes in sidewall to electronic housing compartment.
SECTION: Heating pads
4. Leave old heating pad and thermometer loose and replace insulation and metal panel.
SECTION: Copper cooling pipe
5.     
Measure height and inner dimensions of water bath basin as well as length of outer lip. 
SECTION: Copper cooling pipe
8. Solder pipes B to 90 degree joints attached to A pipes.  Solder 90 degree joints to other end of B pipes facing in opposite direction from previous set of joints, forming 's' shapes.
SECTION: Copper cooling pipe
7. Solder threaded connections to ends of pipes A. Solder 90 degree joints to other ends.
SECTION: Copper cooling pipe
12. Using plumbers tape, screw on barbed ends to threaded connections on pipes A. Use silicon tape around soldered joints that will be submersed in water.
SECTION: Copper cooling pipe
9. Solder 90 degree joints on both ends of pipes C & D in the same direction, forming 'c' shapes.
SECTION: Metal Collar
13. Measure the perimeter of the base of the lid of the water bath.
SECTION: Metal Collar
14. Cut galvanized steel metal framing stud leaving an extra two inches more than the measured lid perimeter 
SECTION: Metal Collar
15. Make perpendicular cuts in the two outer sides of the metal framing stud for the length of each corner-to-corner section of the lid's base 
SECTION: Metal Collar
16. Make a second cut at a 30-degree angle to the perpendicular cuts made in step 14 and remove the triangular section of metal cut out.
SECTION: Metal Collar
17. If the metal framing stud has diamond shaped presses or other pressed structure in the spine/back section, hammer these pressed patterns flat at sections you made your cuts. This is to flatten the metal, so it is easy to fold where you made your cuts. 
SECTION: Metal Collar
18. Fold the metal to a 90-degree angle at your cuts made in steps 14 & 15, tucking the outer sides of the metal frame into one another.
SECTION: Metal Collar
19. Secure the folds by using rivets, placing the rivets in the overlapping outer edges of the metal frame that you tucked into one another in step 15.
SECTION: Metal Collar
20. Measure where the inlet and outlet pipes of the copper cooling pipe will be in relation to when the collar is on the water bath 
SECTION: Metal Collar
21. Cut out a section of the collar for the inlet and outlets based on the measurements made in step 17.
SECTION: Metal Collar
22. For a light-tight seal for the section cut out in step 18, use foam tubular pipe insulation cut. Cut the foam in short lengths, and cuts around the outside of the foam so that collar can easily set into the foam while the foam is fitted to the piping.
SECTION: Metal Collar
23. To reduce condensation buildup from dripping out from the corners of the collar, silicone caulking can be applied around the folded corners.
SECTION: Metal Collar
24. To reduce any sharp edges of the collar where cuts have been made, use a grinding stone attachment on a hand drill to grind down any sharp edges of the collar. This can also be used for small scale adjustments of the cuts that have been made if they aren't fitting perfectly.
SECTION: Metal Collar
25. For a tight seal where the collar rests on the water bath, foam tape can be placed along the base of the collar so that collar is resting on the squishable foam.
SECTION: Metal Collar
26. For a secure fit between the bath, collar, and lid, an extra sheet of galvanized steel is needed for the back. This metal should be long enough to reach from the original mounting point of the lid bracket to above the collar. Drill holes in this sheet of metal where the screw holes are for the lid bracket. Drill holes on the opposite end of the sheet of metal for the bracket. Use rivets to secure the sheet of metal to the collar ensuring that it lines up correctly with the screw holes drilled to line up with the water bath and lid bracket.
SECTION: Heating pads
5. 
SECTION: Copper cooling pipe
6. Cut copper pipes to length:
2x length of outer lip (A)
2x height of water bath (B)
1x 4" less than width of water bath  basin (C)
2x 1/3 length of the one pipe cut to width from above (D)
2x 2" less than length of water bath basin (E)
2x 4" less than length of water bath basin (F)
SECTION: Copper cooling pipe
10. Connect both E pipes to joints on C pipe. Connect Both F pipes to joints of one of the D pipes.
SECTION: Copper cooling pipe
11. Use the remaining D pipe to connect the sections constructed in steps 9 & 10 to create the shape depicted in step 5.