Publication of a communication of approval of a standard amendment to a product specification for a name in the wine sector, as referred to in Article 17(2) and (3) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33
Date: 2024-12-06
Institutions: Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development, European Commission
Subjects: Italy, Veneto, consumer information, designation of origin, labelling, product designation, quality control of agricultural products, sparkling wine, white wine








C_202407284EN.000101.fmx.xml












Official Journal of the European Union


EN
C series













C/2024/7284


6.12.2024






Publication of a communication of approval of a standard amendment to a product specification for a name in the wine sector, as referred to in Article 17(2) and (3) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33
(C/2024/7284)

This communication is published in accordance with Article 17(5) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33 (1).
COMMUNICATING THE APPROVAL OF A STANDARD AMENDMENT


                     ‘Lessini Durello’ / ‘Durello Lessini’
                  


PDO-IT-A0447-AM03


Date of communication: 10.9.2024
                  


DESCRIPTION OF AND REASONS FOR THE APPROVED AMENDMENT

1.   Removal of the ‘sparkling wine made using the classical method’ type

Description: Removal of the type of wine made sparkling using the classic method.
Reasons: This decision follows a major overhaul that distinguishes between sparkling wine produced using the Italian method and sparkling wine produced using the classic method. In the light of this overhaul, it has been decided to no longer include sparkling wine produced using the classic method, but only that produced by means of a second fermentation in an autoclave.
This amendment concerns Articles 1, 5, 6 and 9 of the product specification and the single document sections ‘Description of the wine(s)’ and ‘Link with the geographical area’.
2.   Amendment to vine-training methods

Description: Simplification of vine-training methods.
Reasons: The descriptions have been simplified to allow more modern vine training methods so as to update the winegrowing in line with recent innovations.
This amendment concerns Article 4 of the product specification.
3.   Specification of fermentation methods

Description: Deletion of the parts concerning the classic method typologies which has been replaced by the method of making sparkling wine in autoclaves.
Reasons: The specification has been adapted to the wine-making method involving a second fermentation in an autoclave.
This amendment concerns Article 5 of the specification and the single document section ‘Specific oenological practices’.
4.   Deletion of the chemical and organoleptic descriptions for sparkling wine made using the classic method

Description: Deletion of the parts concerning the classic method typologies.
Reasons: The specification has been adapted to the characteristics of sparkling wines produced by means of a second fermentation in autoclaves.
This amendment concerns Article 6 of the specification and the single document section ‘Description of the wine(s)’.
5.   Update to the link with the environment

Description: Deletion of the parts concerning the classic method typologies.
Reasons: The specification has been adapted to the characteristics of wines made sparkling by a second fermentation in autoclaves. The contents of the article have been redrafted and restructured.
This amendment concerns Article 9 of the product specification and the single document section ‘Link with the geographical area’.
SINGLE DOCUMENT
1.   Name of the product







 


Lessini Durello










 


Durello Lessini




2.   Geographical indication type

PDO - Protected Designation of Origin
3.   Categories of wine products







5.


Quality sparkling wine




3.1.   Combined Nomenclature code







—


22 - BEVERAGES, SPIRITS AND VINEGAR
2204 - Wine of fresh grapes, including fortified wines; grape must other than that of heading 2009




4.   Description of the wines


Sparkling ‘Lessini Durello’ or ‘Durello Lessini’ produced using the Martinotti or Charmat method

CONCISE TEXTUAL DESCRIPTION
Bubbles: fine, long-lasting
Colour: pale straw yellow with greenish tints
Aroma: Delicate, distinctive and slightly fruity
Taste: from zero-dosage or pas dosé to extra brut, brut, extra dry, dry, and demi-sec

Minimum total alcoholic strength by volume: 11,00 %
Minimum sugar-free extract: 14 g/l
Any analytical parameters not shown in the table below comply with the limits laid down in national and EU legislation.
General analytical characteristics






—


Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume): —










—


Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume): —










—


Minimum total acidity: 6,5 in grams per litre expressed as tartaric acid










—


Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre): —










—


Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre): —




5.   Wine-making practices

5.1.   Specific oenological practices







1.


The Martinotti or Charmat method for making sparkling wine (using autoclaves)
Specific oenological practice
Secondary fermentation in autoclaves, using the Martinotti or Charmat method, in accordance with the rules in force on the production of sparkling wines.




5.2.   Maximum yields







2.


Sparkling ‘Lessini Durello’ or ‘Durello Lessini’ produced using the Martinotti or Charmat method

                           16 000 kilograms of grapes per hectare




6.   Demarcated geographical area

The production area for wines covered by the ‘Lessini Durello’ or ‘Durello Lessini’ controlled designation of origin includes:






(a)


Province of Verona: the entire territory of the municipalities of: Vestenanova, San Giovanni Ilarione and part of the territory of the municipalities of: Montecchia di Crosara, Roncà, Cazzano di Tramigna, Tregnago and Badia Calavena.










(b)


Province of Vicenza: the entire territory of the municipalities of Arzignano, Castelgomberto, Chiampo, Brogliano, Gambugliano, Trissino and part of the territory of the municipalities of Cornedo, Costabissara, Gambellara, Isola Vicentina, Malo, Marano Vicentino, Monte di Malo, Montebello Vicentino, Montecchio Maggiore, Montorso Vicentino, Nogarole Vicentino, San Vito di Leguzzano, Schio and Zermeghedo.




7.   Wine grape variety(ies)

Durella B.
8.   Description of the link(s)


Sparkling ‘Lessini Durello’ or ‘Durello Lessini’ produced using the Martinotti or Charmat method

(a)   Specificity of the geographical area
Natural factors
The ‘Lessini Durello’ or ‘Durello Lessini’ PDO area spans over 30 000 hectares in the hilly part of the eastern Lessini mountains that straddle the border between the provinces of Verona and Vicenza.
The geographical structure shared by the Lessini mountains as a whole is characterised by the long and sometimes narrow valleys radiating mostly in the NNW-SSE direction, separated by ridges arranged in a corresponding pattern, which stretch southwards where they disappear under the alluvial layer of the Po valley plain. The difference in altitude in the area is around 800 m.
The hydrographic system in the area is particularly well developed and mainly consists of the Lessinian rivers that flow in a generally southward direction.
The climate of the area in question is characterised by annual rainfall of approximately 1 063 mm and average annual temperatures of approximately 13,7 °C.
Although the area’s geology is quite complex, volcanic and basic volcanic-detrital rocks can be said to predominate in the areas currently devoted to wine-growing, particularly on the hilly slopes of the Val d’Alpone and Val di Chiampo, as far as the Agno valley.
The resulting soils are moderately deep, with a fine texture and a scattering of basalt rocks on the surface that are more frequent deep in the soil.
The main grape variety here is the Durella, which is almost exclusive to the area. It is the modern-day descendent of the Durasena referred to in the Costozza Statutes of 1290.
It is a white grape variety that grows in a compact winged bunch. Its name is derived from the hardness or firmness of the skin and the high total acidity that characterises the wine, enabling a long shelf life and optimal results when used to make sparkling wine.
This variety, thanks to its constant yield, good resistance to disease, prime suitability for use in making sparkling wines (on account of the acid content) and excellent growth (in keeping with the good rainfall levels recorded on the eastern Veronese and Vicentine slopes), has found the ideal soil and climatic conditions in the area for giving the best quality results and ensuring that the vines are strong and capable of withstanding extreme challenges.
Historical and human factors
Seven centuries of winegrowing in the Monti Lessini area bear strong testament to the attention that has always been paid to tending the vines in this area of high hills straddling the provinces of Verona and Vicenza in the Monti Lessini area.
Historical documents on agriculture in the Monti Lessini area often highlight the phrase ‘Terra cum vineis’, a plot of land entirely planted with grapevines, i.e. a vineyard. Between the Middle Ages and the early years of the nineteenth century, viticulture and oenology in the provinces of Verona and Vicenza, and thus in the Alpone and Agno-Chiampo areas, had not yet evolved beyond the basic technical levels established in the Middle Ages.
The best wines come from grapes grown in well-exposed soils of volcanic origin, using rational cultivation techniques linked to the local traditions.
The Durella variety thrives on good exposure to sunlight. However, as the winegrowers are aware, above all it requires good air flow in the vineyard.
Vine-training systems have evolved considerably over the years.
Nowadays the most commonly used training systems in the area where the Durella variety is grown are trellises (simple and double) and the Guyot method. In recent times, the Veronese double pergola training system, with a low bud load and open at the centre, has also become popular. This training system gives the grapes greater sunshine, a better air exchange and better grape colour.
Established with Ministerial Decree of 25 June 1987 (Official Gazette No 6 of 9 January 1988), the Consortium for the Protection of ‘Lessini Durello’ [Consorzio di Tutela del Lessini Durello], which was recognised by the national Ministry in November 2000, is devoted to raising the profile of the designations produced in the area, as well as the productive and socio-economic conditions in the Veronese and Vicentine valleys that fall within the production area. The producers of the designation, together with the Consortium, have refined the technique used to make sparkling wine from Lessini Durello grapes, thus giving it a prestigious position among Venetian sparkling wines.
(b)   Specificity of the product
The bunches of Durella grapes are medium-sized, pyramid-shaped, compact and winged; the grapes have a rather thick, tough and tannic skin.
Durello Spumante is made using a blend containing a minimum of 85% Durella grapes, with Chardonnay, Garganega, Pinot bianco and Pinot nero as possible additions. The high percentage of total acidity means the blend is well-suited for making sparkling wine.
This wine has fine, long-lasting bubbles and is straw yellow of varying intensity in colour, with greenish tints. The bouquet is characterised by hints of gypsum and iodine salts, which seem to bring out the more floral notes of elderberry and hawthorn. The vibrant acidity defines the character of the wine on the palate. Once again, the salty notes typical of this territory make their presence felt. Although the wine is never excessively full-bodied, the taste on the palate enhanced by the bitter mineral aftertaste is seemingly inexhaustible. It is precisely these characteristics that make it so flexible, either as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to richer dishes with strong flavours.
(c)   Causal link between the environment and the product
Winegrowing in the area covered by the Lessini Durello PDO is undoubtedly based on a strong link between the wines produced and the typical features of the territory: on the one hand, the ancient native vine variety Durella; and on the other, an environment still largely uncontaminated with a landscape that has been perfectly preserved and is as yet unspoilt in its most distinctive locations. There is also a wealth of bibliographical references confirming the diverse behaviour of this variety in similar or analogous environments.
The viticulture in this area proves that the oenological result is closely dependent on the perfect synergy between the vines and the environment. On the one hand, there is the land on which the vines are planted with its well-defined and specific peculiarities; and on the other, there are the vines and their very precise adaptation to factors such as temperature, water, soil and growing methods. The high hills and soils of mostly basaltic origin result in very distinctive wines.
The trellis used for the Durella vines remains one of the best vine-training systems, linked to the land and the environment, but it has to be well managed to guarantee grapes of a consistently high quality.
While the high fixed acidity content is linked to the particularities of the vine variety, almost all the other characteristics are strongly linked to the soil and climate conditions. There is actually a very strong link between the volcanic soils and the mineral flinty notes that could almost be described as a specific marker of the Durello variety. The other characteristics of this wine are defined by the gradients and altitudes that produce the relatively extreme temperature fluctuations. These wines will never be known for being well-structured, but it is their scent that characterises and virtually defines the identity of the Durello variety. Scents of more or less ripe apples alternate with more complex, intense smells of mineral origin, such as flint, at times even with marine notes of iodine and sulphur.
9.   Essential further conditions (packaging, labelling, other requirements)


Production of sparkling wines

Legal framework:
EU legislation
Type of further condition:
Derogation from production in the demarcated geographical area
Description of the condition:
The sparkling wines must only be produced within the territory of the Veneto region.

Link to the product specification


https://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/21934



(1)  
            OJ L 9, 11.1.2019, p. 2.


ELI: http://data.europa.eu/eli/C/2024/7284/oj
ISSN 1977-091X (electronic edition)