Publication of an application for approval of an amendment, which is not minor, to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
Date: 2023-10-18
Institutions: Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development, European Commission
Subjects: Lisbon and the Tagus Valley, Portugal, consumer information, designation of origin, labelling, product designation, quality control of agricultural products, sheep's milk cheese








C_202300380EN.000101.fmx.xml












Official Journal of the European Union


EN
Series C













C/2023/380


18.10.2023






Publication of an application for approval of an amendment, which is not minor, to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
(C/2023/380)

This publication confers the right to oppose the amendment application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.
APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF AN AMENDMENT TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION OF PROTECTED DESIGNATIONS OF ORIGIN/PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS WHICH IS NOT MINOR

Application for approval of an amendment in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012



                     ‘Queijo de Azeitão’
                  


EU No: PDO-PT-0217-AM01 – 9.4.2019
                  


PGI ( ) PDO (X)

1.   Applicant group and legitimate interest

ARCOLSA – Associação Regional dos Criadores de Ovinos Leiteiros da Serra da Arrábida [Regional Association of Dairy Sheep in the Serra da Arrábida mountains]
The producer group formed by the ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ operators (producers and processors) has a legitimate interest in submitting this amendment application. ARCOLSA – Associação Regional dos Criadores de Ovinos Leiteiros da Serra da Arrábida – is the producer group that was responsible for the initial application for registration.
Address: Quinta de S. Gonçalo – Cabanas, 2950-615 Palmela
            
Country: Portugal
Tel. +351 212888144
Email address(es): queijodeazeitao@arcolsa.pt
2.   Member state or third country

Portugal
3.   Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)







☒


Name of product










☒


Description of product










☐


Geographical area










☐


Proof of origin










☒


Method of production










☒


Link










☒


Labelling










☒


Other (Deletion of annexes to product specification)




4.   Type of amendment(s)







☐


Amendment to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012










☒


Amendment to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI for which a Single Document (or equivalent) has not been published not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012




5.   Amendment(s)

5.1.   Name of product


Amendment

Queijo de Azeitão
The name of the product has not been changed. However, the platform required this heading to be filled in.
5.2.   Description of product


Amendment

Amendment – for insertion in point 1.1 (Organoleptic characteristics (physical and sensory)) of the product specification and point 3.2 (Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies) of the single document.
Initial text:
The dimensions allowed for ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ are as follows:






 


Normal size:






—


Approximate weight: 250 g;










—


Diameter ranging between 8 and 11 cm;










—


Height ranging between 3 and 5 cm.














 


Small size:






—


Approximate weight: 100 g;










—


Diameter ranging between 5 and 7 cm;










—


Height ranging between 3 and 5 cm.’








New text:
The dimensions allowed for ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ are as follows:






 


Normal size:






—


Approximate weight: 250 g;










—


Diameter ranging between 6 and 11 cm;










—


Height ranging between 3 and 5 cm.














 


Small size:






—


Approximate weight: 100 g;










—


Diameter ranging between 5 and 7 cm;










—


Height ranging between 2 and 4 cm.’








This amendment to the dimensions of the cheese is intended to meet new market demands without altering the inherent characteristics which make the product so specific. The reason for it is that consumer habits are changing and adapting towards a preference for smaller cheese sizes.
5.3.   Method of production


Amendment

Amendment 1 – for insertion in point 4.1 (Production unit – dairy holding) of the product specification and point 3.3 (Feed) of the single document:
Initial text:
No reference made in the initial specification.
New text:


                        ‘The sheep are fed only from pasture, hay and silage produced within the delimited geographical area.
All feed supplied to the animals must come from the geographical area. Only in times of scarcity (due to exceptional meteorological conditions, outbreaks of infectious disease, contamination by toxic substances or fires) is it possible to resort to feed from other regions, as long as it does not account for more than 50 % of dry matter on an annual basis. This feed will be the same and have the same composition as the feed from the geographical area, so that the characteristics of the product are not affected.’
                     

Amendment 2 – for insertion in point 4.2 (Processing unit - cheese-making facility) of the product specification and point 3.3 (Feed) of the single document:
Initial text:
No reference made in the initial specification.
New text:


                        ‘
                        “Queijo de Azeitão” is made from the raw milk of sheep bred and fed in the delimited region, a cardoon preparation and salt to taste.’
                     

Amendment 3 – for insertion in points 4.1 (Production unit – dairy holding) and 4.2 (Processing unit – cheesemaking facility) of the product specification and point 5 (Link with the geographical area) of the single document.
Initial text:


                        ‘Conditions to be complied with in producing “Queijo de Azeitão”
                     
1   Milk production






a)


The milk used to make “Queijo de Azeitão” must be obtained from sheep kept in the geographical area defined by Royal Decree No 49/86 of 2 October 1986.










b)


The sheep from which the milk used to make “Queijo de Azeitão” is obtained must be in perfect health (particularly as regards brucellosis and contagious agalactia) and be in possession of the relevant Official Veterinary Certificate of Animal Health.










c)


The following milk is prohibited:






 


Milk from ewes in poor health conditions (general health or diseases specific to the mammary gland).










 


Milk from ewes in treatment for mastitis for which the necessary time has not been respected.










 


Milk from ewes vaccinated less than 48 hours previously.








2   Milking hygiene and milk preservation






a)


Ewes must be milked thoroughly so as to maintain yield and avoid the accumulation of milk which can cause mastitis to develop.










b)


Milking must take place in a suitable clean location so as to avoid the milk becoming contaminated with clay, dust or debris.










c)


Where possible, the udder must be washed.










d)


The milk must be filtered into churns or other containers as soon as it is milked and care must be taken so that no debris falls into the can during the process.










e)


It is strictly prohibited to add or remove any kind of substance to or from the milk; to do so constitutes fraud punishable by law.










f)


The utensils for the milking and cheese-making should preferably be made of stainless steel or a similar material and they should have rounded edges and be flat at the bottom.










g)


The materials used must be reserved exclusively for collecting and transporting sheep’s milk. Containers must be discarded if in poor condition.










h)


All of the cheese-making materials must be cleaned after every use, preferably as follows:






1.


All of the materials used must be rinsed with cold water.










2.


All of the materials used must be washed with hot water, detergent and a brush.










3.


All of the materials must be rinsed with clean water.
All of the materials must be disinfected by submerging them in a solution of water with bleach (one tablespoon for every 5 litres of water).
All of the materials must be left to drain.
The moulds and cloths used as strainers or to help drain the whey from the paste must be ironed after they are washed.














i)


Producers that use milking machines must clean (wash and disinfect) the machines after every milking operation and ensure that all of the machinery is inspected on a regular basis.










j)


In the absence of adequate refrigeration facilities, the milk must be kept immersed in churns filled with cold water in close proximity to the cheese-making room.










l)


The milk must be taken to the cheese-making room as soon as possible after milking, with at least one delivery per day being made.










m)


If the producer does not have the means to preserve the milk, it must be used straight after milking. Under no circumstances may the product be stored for more than twelve hours.’





New wording:

                        ‘Production unit – dairy holding






—


The sheep’s milk obtained from farms to be used to make “Queijo de Azeitão” does not undergo any thermal treatment (the cold conservation method must be used to preserve the characteristics of the milk until the cheese-making stage).










—


It is strictly prohibited to add or remove any kind of substance to or from the milk; it must be used in its pure state to produce “Queijo de Azeitão” and only salt and the cardoon preparation can be added.










—


The sheep from which the milk used to make “Queijo de Azeitão” is obtained must be healthy and be in possession of the herd passport issued by the relevant body confirming that they are officially free of brucellosis (B4).










—


Sheep that show any visible signs of general ill health or which have any other contagious diseases that can be transmitted to humans via their milk must be kept separately in a suitable location and their milk must be discarded (for example, if mastitis is detected, etc.).










—


The use of any substance that could be transmitted via the milk (medicines, vaccines, parasite treatment) and which is detrimental to human health is prohibited unless the safety intervals are respected and that it does not detract from the quality of the milk used to make “Queijo de Azeitão”.’
                           





                        ‘Processing unit – cheesemaking facility






—



                              “Queijo de Azeitão” is made from the raw milk of sheep bred and fed in the delimited region, a cardoon preparation and salt to taste.










—


The milk must be kept at a temperature < 4 oC and never for longer than 48 hours after milking. If the milk cannot be kept refrigerated upon arrival at the cheese-making facility, it should be processed without delay.










—


The milk must not undergo any thermal treatment except being heated to a temperature of 30 oC to 32 oC. The cardoon may only be added after the milk has reached that temperature.










—


After the curds are cut, the paste is left to settle for a short while so that the whey can drain off.










—


The paste must be drained and moulded slowly but never over a long period of time, to avoid it cooling and the whey being drained off incorrectly.










—


After the cheeses are made, they should where possible be kept in the ambient conditions indicated.’
                           




Amendment 4 – for insertion in point 4.2 (Processing unit - cheesemaking facility) and affecting points 5 (Link to the geographical area) and 3.2 (Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies) of the single document. The new text replaces the old text in the product specification only.
Initial text:

‘3   Cheesemaking






a)


“Queijo de Azeitão” is a handmade cured cheese with a semi-solid, buttery paste that is white or yellowish in colour with few or no eyes. It is obtained by slowly draining off the whey from pure raw sheep’s milk coagulated using a cardoon preparation. Its characteristics are defined in Regulatory Decree 49/86 of 2 October 1986 (Annex 1).










b)


In accordance with the traditional practices that have always been followed in the region, the cheese must be made as soon as possible after milking.’




‘4   Curing or maturing






a)


Curing or maturing must take place in a natural curing facility or in facilities with a controlled environment with the following ambient conditions:






 


Temperature – 10 oC to 15 oC










 


Humidity – 85 % to 95 %














b)


The minimum curing time is 20 days. The maturation coefficient must be at least 35.










c)


Throughout the curing period, the cheeses must be turned and washed. The frequency with which these operations are performed will depend on the appearance of the crust, which must remain smooth and clean.’





New text:

                        ‘The process whereby “Queijo de Azeitão” is made can be summarised as follows:
Salt is added to the milk in advance at the discretion of the cheesemaker, up to a maximum of 25 g/litre.
The only coagulating agent used is a cardoon (Cynara cardunculus L.) preparation made a few hours in advance. Again, the quantities added vary from one cheesemaker to the next. The milk does not undergo any heat treatment in this stage, other than heating to 30-32 °C. The cardoon may only be added after the milk has reached that temperature.
The temperature is controlled using thermometers inserted into the vat but the paste consistency is monitored by hand (it is ready when it no longer sticks to the walls of the vat). Coagulation takes place at a constant temperature ranging between 30 oC and 40 oC. The coagulation time varies between 45 and 60 minutes.
The curds are transferred to a mould or alternatively to a porous cloth which enables the whey to drain off slowly (the paste is stirred in the process, which continues to be carried out by hand. After the moulds are filled, they are sometimes passed through a pneumatic press (instead of pressing by hand). The curds are carefully transferred into a large mould or “trincho” on top of a cheesemaking table (or “mesa francela”, as it is known), where they are worked slowly by hand until the right amount of whey (or “almece”) has been drained from the paste.
This paste is then filled into small moulds (of the sizes intended for the cheese) and pressed hard by hand until the right amount of whey that will enable the future cheese to ferment and ripen properly has been drained off.
After they are made, the cheeses are kept in the moulds for a period of between 12 and 24 hours. They are then moved to the draining shelves which are usually located in the cheesemaking room itself or in a draining chamber. These shelves are set at a slightly incline so as to enable any remaining whey inside the cheese to drain off.
They are then moved to an exudation room where they are placed on shelves for 8 to 12 days with minimal airing, a temperature ranging between 8 oC and 14 oC and relative humidity of between 65 % and 99 %. During this stage, the cheeses start to exudate and produce a thick, sticky substance known as “reima” which often has an intense, unpleasant smell and is removed by scraping or washing.
They are then transferred to another “curing” or “drying” room where they go through another stage lasting between 8 and 12 days, with a gentle air current, a temperature of between 10 oC and 20 oC and relative humidity of between 55 % and 88 %.
Minimum curing time: 16 days
As regards the maturation coefficient, the minimum value is 35 grams of nitrogenous matter per 100 grams of cheese.
Recommended ambient conditions:
Conditions for ripening “Queijo de Azeitão”:






 


Stage 1 (8 to 12 days) – Temperature (oC) 8-14; Relative humidity (%) 65-99










 


Stage 2 (8 to 12 days) – Temperature (oC) 10-20; Relative humidity (%) 55-88




The cheeses are turned every day during the curing period to ensure that the cheese is as homogeneous as possible.’
                     
Amendment 5 – amendment applicable to the product specification
Initial text:

‘5   Conservation
After it has been made and certified, the cheese must be kept until such time as it is sold in the following conditions for conservation:






—


Storage – between 0 oC and 5 oC










—


Transport – between 0 oC and 10 oC










—


Retail – between 0 oC and 5 oC’
                              





New wording:
Deleted
Amendment 1 – This amendment is needed because in the exceptional conditions described, spontaneous vegetation is not always enough to meet the needs of the sheep and the amendment is intended to complete the information on the animals’ diet.
Amendment 2 – It is specified that salt is used to taste so as to identify all of the raw materials used to make ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ and complete the information on the product.
Amendment 3 – This amendment is needed to clarify the conditions to be complied with in the production and processing units by providing a more detailed description of the conditions in which the product is to be made, more specifically how the milk is to be produced and processed in order to guarantee that the end product has the desired characteristics. It is specified that the milk must be kept at a temperature < 4 oC and never for longer than 48 hours after milking. It is specified, in the first stage, that the cardoon may only be added after the milk has reached a temperature ranging between 30 oC and 32 oC.
Similarly, in the second stage of the cheese-making, the temperature at which the milk is to coagulate is indicated, i.e. between 30 oC and 40 oC for between 45 to 60 minutes. The mention of the cardoon infusion (Cynara cardunculus L.) in the original specification as the coagulating agent for the milk is being replaced by a cardoon preparation (Cynara cardunculus L.) merely because of the technological changes in cheesemaking nowadays. This does not affect the characteristics of the end product. No quantities are defined for the cardoon preparation, as the quantity is a matter for the local cheese-makers to decide based on their know-how.
Amendment 4 – These amendments are intended to provide details of the conditions in which the milk must be preserved and worked in order to guarantee that the cheese made has the characteristics of ‘Queijo de Azeitão’, more specifically as regards the amount of salt used and the information on the temperature at which the milk coagulates.
The conditions for ripening ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ were amended to better reflect the conditions needed in order to obtain cheese with the intended characteristics and variable dimensions.
Amendment 5 – The reference to the conservation conditions after the cheese is made was deleted so as not to influence the specific characteristics of the product.
5.4.   Link


Amendment

Amendment 1 – for insertion in point 6 (Link with the geographical area) of the product specification and point 5 (Link with the geographical area) of the single document.
Initial text:


                        ‘The soil and climate conditions in the area provide the sheep with pastures that are very rich in flora and this has an impact on the organoleptic qualities of this cheese, which are so highly appreciated.’
                     

New wording:


                        ‘Link with the geographical area
The quality of “Queijo de Azeitão” is due exclusively to the natural and human factors linked to the defined geographical area.’
                     



                        ‘Historical link
In his brief historical introduction, Fernando Soares Franco (1985) mentions that settlement began in the southern part of Portugal after this part of our country was claimed back from the Moors. The first settlements sprung up beside Almada castle and then along the river banks, from Caparica to Alcochete. South from there was a vast uncultivated plain and the only settlements were located on the north-facing slopes between the castles of Palmela and Sesimbra.
Setúbal and Sesimbra were just tiny fishing villages.
It is certain that people brought sheep with them when they crossed the Tagus. That is why to this day the flocks of sheep to be found within the “municipality of Lisbon” are similar to the ones to be found on the Setúbal peninsula, even though there will have been some degree of cross-breeding with the animals that used to be taken on foot from the Alentejo to be slaughtered in Lisbon.
As regards the Azeitão area, he writes that since the founding of the Kingdom, the Serra da Arrábida and the valleys that spread northwards from that mountain range used to be hunting reserves and therefore sheep used not be allowed there. From the 15th to the 18th centuries, Azeitão was a favourite summer destination for many noble families who had palaces and country houses built there. It was therefore a prosperous place for the local people that worked at the stately properties.
In the 19th century, when the hunting reserves were abolished and the region was abandoned by the noble class, many palaces and country houses fell to ruin. The Phylloxera plague also destroyed most of the vineyards, which were moved to the sandy area further north.
Many of the large estates were divided and others changed ownership. This led to a significant transformation in agriculture and the development of cereal crops. Sheep now had access to a better diet and this boosted their numbers.
Gaspar Henriques de Paiva, originally from Belmonte, arrived in Azeitão from the Beiras in 1830. Perhaps because he missed his home region, every year a cheesemaker used to come from Castelo Branco to make him cheeses like the ones made in the Serra da Estrela region for his own consumption. That cheesemaker taught one of the shepherds the secrets of his trade and the knowledge was passed down to new generations of artisanal cheesemakers, thus creating the famous sheep’s cheese of Azeitão.
Frederico Franco de Paiva, son of Gaspar Henriques de Paiva, was more business-minded than his father. He changed the cheesemaking process and reduced the size of the cheeses, intent on adapting this cheese to make it more easily marketable.
The cheeses continued to decrease in size until they stabilised at the current 250 g and 100 g weights.
This cheese started to attract a lot of attention from consumers in Azeitão and he decided to present it to the general public in Lisbon at the Portuguese Industrial Expo of 1880 and the Congress and Expo on the Dairy, Olive and Oil Industries organised by the Royal Portuguese Agriculture Association in 1905, where it was acclaimed and awarded medals and diplomas. That was how the sheep’s cheese known as “Queijo de Azeitão” began.
By the early 20th century others in Azeitão were also making this type of cheese and by the 1930s-1940s demand for it was so high that not only did the number of flocks increase, their size also did. Production was no longer restricted to Azeitão; it had spread in the direction of Setúbal, Palmela and Sesimbra and a cluster of cheesemakers had appeared in the Quinta do Anjo area. There were also several shepherds and cheesemakers in the region. The country houses were adapted to include facilities where cheese could be made and ripened and there were over 20 cheesemakers of significant importance. This marked the heyday of “Queijo de Azeitão”.
FORTUNA A. (1988) wrote “(...) the art was acquired when drinking the milk...not the sheep’s milk, but that of the mother (to clarify: not the sheep’s mother, but rather the cheesemaker's mother). In other words, the science, skill, know-how, intuition or ‘knack’ for making cheese goes back a long way, almost always to childhood, or is something that they carry in their blood. Cheesemakers are not self-made, they learn their craft from their families and carry on traditional cheesemaking ‘dynasties’. This is obviously the case of the groups from Quinta do Anjo parish”.’
                     



                        ‘Soil and climate characteristics
The demarcated geographical area where “Queijo de Azeitão” is produced has various different soil and climate characteristics, from the calcareous soils of the Serra da Arrábida mountains to an area of sandy land with stone pine, cork oak and mixed tree cover, as well as agricultural land where tree density is low.
The soil and climate conditions in the area provide the sheep with pastures that are very rich in flora and this has an impact on the organoleptic qualities of this cheese, which are so highly appreciated.
The pastureland in the region features a wealth of diverse Mediterranean species, with a strong presence of meadow legumes of the Ornithophus, Trifolium, Medicago and Biserrula genera and gramineae of the Dactylis, Festuca, Lolium, Phalaris genera, as well as others. Given that the sheep graze on them, they determine the characteristics of “Queijo de Azeitão”.
The “Queijo de Azeitão” region used to be classified as having a tropical climate (even in the Tertiary period) but this changed to a temperate climate with two distinct seasons: a hot, dry season and a colder, rainy season (no snow, however).
This change in the climate led to the selection of species that were more suited to drier habitats and better able to resist the dry summers and to a new type of vegetation developing – forests formed by medium-sized trees with small, thick, permanent foliage.
These general aspects, together with the region’s specific location and exposure to the influence of the Atlantic, its geological composition, relief and sparse population, contributed towards the current characteristics of the Arrábida region and surrounding area.
Climate
Despite its relatively small surface area, the Azeitão region has quite a complex climate and the three councils that make up the production zone for “Queijo de Azeitão” present significant climate variations.
SOARES FRANCO (1945) addressed this complexity, stating that on account of the region’s oceanic location, its climate should be considered maritime and Mediterranean in type but that its impact was greatly hindered by the Serra da Arrábida mountain range (the exception being its south-facing slopes) which forms a barrier against its effects. However, one must also consider the open exposure on the north and north-east boundaries and the prevailing winds from that direction in the above-mentioned region, which have a major influence on the temperature, particularly owing to the humidity they bring in and the cold winds in winter. The continental climate, with its very high temperatures and scant rainfall in summer, also has an impact at certain times of the year, particularly in the eastern area. These influences are offset by the Tagus and Sado river basins and the extensive pine forests, which have the effect of regulating the climate, preventing major oscillations in temperature and providing the humidity that is so essential for the vegetation.
The region’s climate was classified as being temperate (mean annual air temperature of between 10 oC and 20 oC), moderate (mean amplitude in the annual air temperature variation of between 10 oC and 20 oC), humid (mean relative air humidity at 9 am ranging between 75 % and 90 %) and moderately rainy (mean annual precipitation between 500 mm and 1 000 mm). The temperature in the coldest month ranges between 0 oC and 18 oC. The dry season coincides with the hot season of the year and the precipitation in the driest month is less than a third of what is registered in the rainiest month. Summers are hot with a mean air temperature of over 22 oC in the hottest months. Water scarcity in this season ranges from moderate to high.
The annual variation in the characteristics of the climate (rainfall, temperature and the possibility of frost, which is linked to the temperature) are crucial factors which have an impact on how the plants grow. It has been noted that the two most favourable periods for plant development are the spring and the autumn. In both of these periods, it has been verified that there is water available in the soil and that the temperatures are definitely above 10 oC.
These are the temperatures that are considered ideal both as regards feeding the sheep being reared for their milk and for the first stage in curing “Queijo de Azeitão”. However, the production period used to run from November to May. The temperatures recorded in the hottest months meant it was not possible for the cheese to achieve the characteristics of “Queijo de Azeitão”.

                        “Queijo de Azeitão” used to be a seasonal cheese but nowadays with the technological development in the sector, it can be produced all year round, which is yet another added value for this product and the region.
Soil
The geological composition and relief of the Arrábida and São Luís mountain ranges determine the type of sheep-farming and the animals’ diet, which in turn have an impact on the characteristics of “Queijo de Azeitão”.
SOARES FRANCO (1945) noted that CHOFFAT (1908) described that soils from the Secondary or Mesozoic Era make up almost all the area of the mountains and the valleys that surround them, with a variety of calcareous, shale and sandstone deposits. The soils from the Tertiary or Cenozoic Era are formed as follows: calcareous soils and residues from the Oligocene and Miocene make up the slopes (the former on the south-facing slope and the latter on the north-facing slope) of the hills from Sant`Ana to Palmela; clayey gravels and sand from the Pliocene Epoch are characteristic in the soils to the north and east of the latter.
Therefore most of the soils in the Azeitão region contain high quantities of calcium and this influence is felt in the milk’s composition, in how it coagulates and hence in its intrinsic characteristics.
These climate and soil characteristics are what make “Queijo de Azeitão” so specific, so much so that “all attempts made over the years at properties located a few kilometres from this select region where the pastureland consisted entirely of sandy soils from the Pliocene Epoch were a complete failure, even when they took over very experienced cheesemakers from here” (FRANCO, 1981). ’
                     

Despite being virtually omitted from the initial specification, detailed information has been provided on the link between the product and the demarcated geographical area, including historical evidence and the soil and climate conditions, as well as evidence of the link between the human factors and the characteristics of ‘Queijo de Azeitão’.
It was therefore necessary to indicate that the quality or the characteristics of the specific product are essentially due to the natural factors of the geographical area so more detailed information has been provided on the link between the product and the demarcated geographical area by including aspects of the history, soil and climate and the link between the human factors and the characteristics of ‘Queijo de Azeitão’, in order to comply with the provisions of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012, in particular Article 7 on product specifications and Article 7(f)(i) on the details of the link between the quality or characteristics of the product and the geographical environment referred to in Article 5(1) of the above-mentioned Regulation.
5.5.   Labelling


Amendment

Amendment 1 – for insertion in point 8 (Specific labelling) of the product specification and point 3.6 of the single document: (Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to)
Initial text:
The label must state:






—


Name under which product is sold: ‘Queijo de Azeitão – Denominação de origem controlada’.










—


Ingredients: raw sheep’s milk, cardoon and salt.










—


Fat classification: Full fat.










—


Best before date: Best before end of .../month/year.










—


The name and address of the manufacturer.




New text:
The labelling must bear the following words: ‘Queijo de Azeitão – Denominação de Origem Protegida’ or ‘Queijo de Azeitão DOP’.
This amendment is to delete the information provided in Regulation (EU) No 1169/2011 on the provision of food information to consumers which is not specific to the product ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ PDO.
This amendment also aims to make it compulsory to use the term ‘protected designation of origin’ or the corresponding abbreviation ‘PDO’– provided for in Article 12(3) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 only on a voluntary basis – with a view to improving communication with consumers and meeting their expectations. It has been common practice for groups in Portugal to require the use of these terms on labels and this has greatly helped standardise and reinforce the image of these quality schemes on the national market.
5.6.   Other


Amendment

Deletion of annexes to product specification.
Amendment – amendment applicable to the product specification
Initial text:







Annex 3


:


‘Queijo de Azeitão’ producer factsheet;




Annex 4


:


‘Template for the certification mark to be used with the ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ designation of origin;




Annex 5


:


‘Organoleptic appreciation table’;




New text:
Deleted
The purpose of this amendment is to remove the information that should not be in the Product Specification pursuant to Article 7 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 and to include the reference to the authority competent for verifying compliance with the Product Specification.
SINGLE DOCUMENT


                     ‘Queijo de Azeitão’
                  


EU No: PDO-PT-0217-AM01 – 9.4.2019
                  


PGI ( ) PDO (X)

1.   Name(s) [of PDO or PGI]


               ‘Queijo de Azeitão’
            
2.   Member state or third country

Portugal
3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product

Class 1.3. Cheeses
3.2.   Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies


                  ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ is a matured cheese with the following physical, chemical and organoleptic characteristics:






 


Shape:






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Short (flat) regular cylinder with bulging on the sides and on the top and edges that are not perfectly defined.














 


Rind:






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Consistency: malleable, quite soft;










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Appearance: whole, well-formed, smooth and fine;










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Colour: yellow, uniform.














 


Paste:






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Texture: close, buttery, with a cutting edge that is easily deformed and sometimes crumbly;










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Appearance: creamy, unctuous, with infrequent or non-existent eyes;










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Colour: white or slightly yellow, uniform;










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Smell and taste: slightly piquant flavour, a mix of sharp and salty with a mild, delicate aroma.








The dimensions allowed for ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ are as follows:






 


Normal size:






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Approximate weight: 250 g;










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Diameter ranging between 6 and 11 cm;










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Height ranging between 3 and 5 cm.














 


Small size:






 


Approximate weight: 100 g;










 


Diameter ranging between 5 and 7 cm;










 


Height ranging between 2 and 4 cm.









                  ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ has a variable moisture content ranging from 63 % to 69 % in non-fat solids and a variable fat content of over 45 % and under 60 % in dry matter.
As regards the maturation coefficient, the minimum value is 35 grams of nitrogenous matter per 100 grams of cheese.
3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The sheep are fed only from pasture, hay and silage produced within the delimited geographical area.
All feed supplied to the animals must come from the geographical area. Only in times of scarcity (due to exceptional meteorological conditions, outbreaks of infectious disease, contamination by toxic substances or fires) is it possible to resort to feed from other regions, as long as it does not account for more than 50 % of dry matter on an annual basis. This feed must be the same and have the same composition as the feed from the geographical area, so that the characteristics of the product are not affected.

                  ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ is made from the raw milk of sheep bred and fed in the delimited region, a cardoon preparation and salt to taste.
3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

The production of milk and the manufacture of ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ including the maturation and curing take place in the demarcated geographical area.
3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

—
3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

The labelling must bear the following words: ‘Queijo de Azeitão – Denominação de Origem Protegida’ or ‘Queijo de Azeitão DOP’.
4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

The geographical production area is restricted to Palmela, Setúbal and Sesimbra councils.
5.   Link with the geographical area

The quality of ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ is due exclusively to the natural and human factors linked to the defined geographical area.
The geological composition and relief of the Arrábida and São Luís mountain ranges determine the type of sheep-farming and the animals’ diet. ‘The demarcated geographical area where “Queijo de Azeitão” is produced has various different soil and climate characteristics, from the calcareous soils of the Serra da Arrábida mountains to an area of sandy land with stone pine, cork oak and mixed tree cover, as well as agricultural land where tree density is low.’
            
Soares Franco (1945) noted that Choffat (1908) described that soils from the Secondary or Mesozoic Era make up almost all the area of the mountains and the valleys that surround them, with a variety of calcareous, shale and sandstone deposits. The soils from the Tertiary or Cenozoic Era are formed as follows: calcareous soils and residues from the Oligocene and Miocene make up the slopes (the former on the south-facing slope and the latter on the north-facing slope) of the hills from Sant`Ana to Palmela; clayey gravels and sand from the Pliocene Epoch are characteristic in the soils to the north and east of the latter and make up the majority of soils in the Azeitão region.
This type of soil (limestone, hence low pH, and the salt components typical of the location close to coastal areas), the climatic conditions and the altitude of the region all influence the composition of the region’s pastures.
The pastureland in the region features a wealth of diverse Mediterranean species, with a strong presence of meadow legumes of the Ornithophus, Trifolium, Medicago and Biserrula genera and gramineae of the Dactylis, Festuca, Lolium, Phalaris genera, as well as others. Given that the sheep graze on them, they determine the characteristics of the milk, which when processed with the ancestral craft and expertise of the local people (particularly as the milk used is raw) results in a very distinctive cheese with highly appreciated organoleptic properties that have been maintained for many generations. The taste is slightly piquant, a mixture of acidic and savoury.
The annual variation in the characteristics of the climate (rainfall, temperature and the possibility of frost, which is linked to the temperature) are crucial factors which have an impact on how the plants grow. The two most favourable periods for plant development are the spring and the autumn. In both of these periods, it has been verified that there is water available in the soil and that the temperatures are definitely above 10 oC. These are the temperatures that are considered ideal both as regards feeding the sheep being reared for their milk and for the first stage in curing ‘Queijo de Azeitão’. The technological developments in the sector mean that the once seasonal product ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ can now be produced all year round, which is yet another added value for this product and the region.
To make ‘Queijo de Azeitão’, the milk must be kept at a temperature < 4 oC and never for longer than 48 hours after milking. If the milk cannot be kept refrigerated upon arrival at the cheese-making facility, it should be processed without delay. ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ is produced by curdling pure raw sheep’s milk from animals bred in the region with a cardoon (Cynara cardunculus L.) preparation and then slowly draining the curds. Salt is added to the milk in advance in variable quantities at the discretion of the cheesemaker, up to a maximum of 25 g/litre.
The coagulating agent used is a cardoon (Cynara cardunculus L.) preparation made a few hours in advance. Again, the quantities added vary from one cheesemaker to the next.
The cheese-making process takes place in two stages: the initial stage, in which the milk does not undergo any thermal treatment except for being heated to a temperature of 30 oC to 32 oC, after which the cardoon may be added.
The next stage in the cheese-making process is the milk coagulation. This process is based on the know-how of the people of the region as regards controlling the temperature of the milk, which must be kept at a temperature ranging between 30o C and 40 oC. The same is true of coagulation time, which varies between 45 and 60 minutes and is decided by local cheesemakers who monitor when the paste no longer sticks to the walls of the vat. The curds are transferred to a mould or alternatively to a porous cloth which enables the whey to drain off slowly (the paste is stirred in the process, which continues to be carried out by hand. The curds are carefully transferred into a large mould or ‘trincho’ on top of a cheese-making table (or ‘mesa francela’, as it is known), where they are worked slowly by hand until the right amount of whey has been drained from the paste. This paste is then filled into small moulds (of the sizes intended for the cheese) and pressed hard by hand until the right amount of whey that will enable the future cheese to ferment and ripen properly has been drained off. The resulting cheese has a close, buttery texture and a creamy, unctuous paste with infrequent or non-existent eyes. These are the characteristics that make ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ so unique.
The precautions taken to maintain the ripening and curing conditions for the cheese are also based on local knowledge and they are decisive in ensuring that the resulting cheese has the smooth, fine, well-formed and rather soft, malleable, yellow rind and the paste with the texture, colour and appearance that are specific to ‘Queijo de Azeitão’.
The microflora of the cheese-making facilities also has a role to play. It is influenced by the microclimate in the Serra da Arrábida basin, which enjoys mild temperatures and high relative humidity levels due to the influence of the sea, which gives rise to the ripening conditions, as follows:
Conditions for ripening ‘Queijo de Azeitão’:






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Stage 1 (8 to 12 days) – Temperature (oC) 8-14; Relative humidity (%) 65-99










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Stage 2 (8 to 12 days) – Temperature (oC) 10-20; Relative humidity (%) 55-88




The curing or maturing time for ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ varies but must be at least 16 days long.
The cheese-making process and the techniques used to make ‘Queijo de Azeitão’ have been handed down from one generation to the next to the present day. They occupy an important place in the diet of the local inhabitants and are proof of the unequivocal link between the people and the product and the region from which it originates.

Reference to publication of the product specification

https://tradicional.dgadr.gov.pt/images/prod_imagens/queijos/docs/CE_QAZEITAO_maio_2021.pdf


(1)  
            OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.


ELI: http://data.europa.eu/eli/C/2023/380/oj
ISSN 1977-091X (electronic edition)