Publication of an approved standard amendment to the product specification of a protected designation of origin or protected geographical indication in the agricultural products and foodstuffs sector, as referred to in Article 6b(2) and (3) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) No 664/2014 2023/C 344/20
Date: 2023-09-29
Institutions: Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development, European Commission
Subjects: Principality of Asturias, Spain, blue-veined cheese, consumer information, cows’ milk cheese, designation of origin, goats’ milk cheese, labelling, product designation, quality control of agricultural products, sheep's milk cheese








C_2023344EN.01023101.xml










29.9.2023   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 344/231







Publication of an approved standard amendment to the product specification of a protected designation of origin or protected geographical indication in the agricultural products and foodstuffs sector, as referred to in Article 6b(2) and (3) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) No 664/2014
(2023/C 344/20)

This communication is published in accordance with Article 6b(5) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) No 664/2014 (1).
COMMUNICATING THE APPROVAL OF A STANDARD AMENDMENT TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION OF A PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN OR PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION ORIGINATING IN A MEMBER STATE

(Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012)



                     ‘Cabrales’
                  


EU No: PDO-ES-0081-AM02 – 6.7.2023
                  


PDO (X) PGI ( )

1.   Name of product


               ‘Cabrales’
            
2.   Member State to which the geographical area belongs

Spain
3.   Member State authority communicating the standard amendment

Directorate-General for Rural Development and Agri-food – Department of Rural Environment and Territorial Cohesion of the Principality of Asturias
4.   Description of the approved amendment(s)









1.


Amendment of graphical elements on the food wrapping paper used to package the product.
In Section B) of the product specification, ‘Description of product’. The requirement for the food wrapping paper to show drawings of the leaves of the Acer pseudoplatanus has been deleted from paragraph 4.
Reason: need to adapt the materials currently used. The green colour of the material used is reminiscent of the leaves of the Acer pseudoplatanus, thereby maintaining the essence of the origin.
This is considered to be a standard amendment because the adaptation of the materials used has no effect on the physical, chemical or organoleptic characteristics of the product.
This amendment does not alter the essential characteristics and authenticity of the product covered by the Protected Designation of Origin.
The amendment does not affect the single document.












2.


Specification of the animal origin of the rennet
Section E) of the specification, ‘Method of production’, and Section 3.3 of the single document, ‘Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)’.
The animal origin of the rennet is specified.
This amendment affects the single document.
Reason: the origin of the rennet currently used needs to be changed because, since natural kid rennet is produced in-house by the PDO producers themselves using the stomachs of suckling goats, it is not subject to health registration, and because the dosage of powdered rennet is complicated.
This is considered to be a standard amendment because the adaptation of the materials used has no effect on the physical, chemical or organoleptic characteristics of the product.
This amendment does not alter the essential characteristics and authenticity of the product covered by the Protected Designation of Origin.
This amendment affects the single document.












3.


Correction of a drafting error
Section E) of the specification, ‘Method of production’.
In paragraph 5, ‘arníaos’ is replaced by ‘arnios’.
This amendment does not affect the single document.
Reason: a correction must be made to the materials used, since ‘arniao’ is the cheese inside the mould, and ‘arnio’ is the mould itself.
This is considered to be a standard amendment because the correction of errors has no effect on the physical, chemical or organoleptic characteristics of the product.
This amendment does not alter the essential characteristics and authenticity of the product covered by the Protected Designation of Origin.
The amendment does not affect the single document.












4.


Removal of the requirement for all cheesemakers to use a single label.
Section H) of the specification, ‘Labelling’ and point 3.6) of the single document, ‘Specific rules concerning the labelling of the product the registered name refers to’.
Deletion of the last paragraph is proposed.
This amendment affects the single document.
Reason: cheesemakers need to be able to set their product apart. Cheesemakers continue to produce on a small scale. However, over time, they have carved a niche in the market, and therefore wish to set themselves apart using their own commercial labels indicating their company names. The presentation characteristics stay the same: shape, structure and central numbering (guarantee seal).
This is considered to be a standard amendment because it does not alter the essential characteristics and authenticity of the product covered by the Protected Designation of Origin.
This amendment affects the single document.












5.


Removal of the inclusion of national legislative requirements.
Section I) of the specification, ‘National legislative requirements’.
Deletion of the section in question is proposed.
This amendment does not affect the single document.
Reason: this is not an obligatory element in the structure of a product specification. This heading is likely to become obsolete when the new provisions are published.
This is considered to be a standard amendment because it does not affect any key elements.
The amendment does not affect the single document.




SINGLE DOCUMENT


                     ‘Cabrales’
                  


EU No: PDO-ES-0081-AM02 – 6.7.2023
                  


PDO (X) PGI ( )

1.   Name(s) [of PDO or PGI]


               ‘Cabrales’
            
2.   Member State or Third Country

Spain
3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product [listed in Annex XI]

Class 1.3. Cheeses
3.2.   Description of product to which the name in (1) applies

Blue-veined cheese made from raw cow’s milk, sheep’s milk or goat’s milk or a mixture of two or all three types of milk – which must always be whole – with a balanced composition in terms of fats and proteins.
Ripened in caves for at least two months counting from the production of the curd.
Characteristics of the ripened cheeses:






 


Shape: cylindrical with smooth sides,










 


Height: from 7 to 15 centimetres.




Weight and diameter: variable.
Rind: soft, thin, oily grey – orange-brown with possible reddish-yellow areas.
Body: oily consistency, although with a varying degree of cohesion, depending on the cheese’s level of fermentation. Compact, and without eyes. White in parts, with greenish-blue veins. Slightly piquant flavour, which is stronger in cheeses made from pure sheep’s milk or goat’s milk or a mixture.
Fat: no less than 45 % in dry matter.
Minimum moisture content of 30 %.
3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The livestock is fed according to traditional practices, making direct use of the pastures and supplementing this with feed.
Raw cow’s milk, sheep’s milk or goat’s milk from livestock farms located in the defined geographical area. Rennet exclusively of animal origin.
3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

The production of the milk and the processing, ripening, portioning, preparation and packaging of the cheese must take place in the defined geographical area.
3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

Portioning, preparation and packaging must be carried out within the geographical area by the cheesemakers themselves so as to guarantee certain optimal conditions for the quality of the product. This also allows the authenticity of the product to be preserved and makes traceability checks easier.
3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

The commercial labels on the cheeses must bear the words ‘Denominación de Origen Protegida Cabrales’, as well as the EU logo for Protected Designations of Origin.
The cheeses must also carry a secondary label, each with its own serial number, codified according to the format of the cheese that it is certifying. These secondary labels must be approved, checked and supplied by the inspection body in such a way that they cannot be reused.
4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

The production area of the milk suitable for making ‘Cabrales’ cheese comprises the villages of Arangas, Arenas, Asiego, Berodia, Bulnes, Camarmeña, Canales, Carreña, Escobar, Inguanzo, La Molina, La Salce, Ortiguero, Pandiello, Puertas, Poo, Sotres and Tielve in the municipality of Cabrales, and Oceño, Cáraves and Rozagas in the municipality of Peñamellera Alta, all of which fall within the Picos de Europa area in the province of Asturias.
The cheese is also processed and ripened in the production area.
5.   Link with the geographical area

Specificity of the product
The specificity of Cabrales cheese, which makes it unique in relation to other cheeses, is determined by its organoleptic characteristics (rind and body).
Specificity of the area
This is reflected in the following natural and human factors:






1-


Natural factors
The Picos de Europa, situated in the south-eastern part of the province of Asturias and extending somewhat into Leon and Cantabria, are made up of mountainous massifs, which rise from the northern slopes of the Cantabrian Mountains, and vast pastures situated at altitudes above 800 metres.










2-


Human factors
Due to the isolation experienced by generations of inhabitants in this area, their economy is based on the exhaustive use and exploitation of the natural resources.
Firstly, the resources of the human settlements located in the Picos de Europa were traditionally based on the use of pastures in the summertime to feed a range of livestock, in general coming from the villages on the borders of the Picos. During the summer, the animals are free to roam the difficult pastures of the peña (the name given to the Picos de Europa by local residents). Every small village has its own fold, which is farmed communally, but is made up of various herds, each owned by a different resident. In the summer, they are transferred to a few residents who are responsible for looking after and managing the livestock, while the others remain in the village and focus on harvesting and haymaking.
Secondly, thanks to the specific expertise of the local producers and the fact that difficulties in communication meant that the points of consumption were so remote, the milk was turned into cheese by the herders themselves.
Causal link between the specific nature of the area and the production and characteristics of the product






a)


Ripening caves
The existence of caves and caverns of different sizes and characteristics is due to karst formations and the peculiar dynamic between air and water found in the limestone mass of the Picos de Europa, which is one of the thickest in Europe.
The ripening caves are sometimes close to the fold or the herder’s house, but the majority are far away, and access along the winding mountain paths is difficult. They are located at altitudes between 800 and 1 200 metres, and those at higher altitudes are considered to be of greater quality.
The conditions a cave must meet in order to be suitable for ripening ‘Cabrales’ are as follows: it must be deep, with a north-facing entry; it must have at least two openings to the outside (one for access and another for ventilation) to create a current of air inside known as a ‘soplado’; and it must have flowing water. This causes the air in the cave to move slightly and gives it very high humidity (over 90 %), while keeping the temperature between 6 °C and 10 °C.
In these conditions, the walls are covered with mould, principally Penicillium roqueforti, and the air currents or ‘soplados’ loosen its spores, which fall on the cheese, germinate and enter the body of the cheese.
In order to ripen sufficiently, the cheeses must remain in the caves for 2 to 5 months on wooden shelves (‘talameras’). During this time they are periodically turned and cleaned.
Once the ripening process had finished, the cheeses used to be wrapped in leaves of the Acer pseudoplatanus to make them easier to handle during marketing. Nowadays, for cheeses covered by the designation of origin, this practice has been replaced by the use of food wrapping paper with leaves printed onto it.










b)


Reputation
There are accounts that attest to the reputation of ‘Cabrales’ cheese. For example, the writings of Jovellanos (18th century), Madoz’s Diccionario Geográfico (published in the early nineteenth century) and González Solís’s Memorias Asturianas all state that Cabrales cheeses were presented at the Agricultural Exhibition in Madrid in 1857, alongside other Asturian products.
In 1911, in their report on dairy farming in Santander, the Alvarado brothers began their journey in the region of Cabrales, climbing the Picos de Europa to ‘visit’ the caves of the herders who make the famous ‘Cabrales’ cheese.









Reference to publication of the product specification

https://www.asturias.es/documents/217090/555882/dop-cabrales-pliego.pdf/4123ccd8-878f-ff16-41e7-69ed6d64d0a7?t=1671616901729


(1)  
            OJ L 179, 19.6.2014, p. 17.