Publication of an application for approval of an amendment, which is not minor, to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2), point (a), of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs 2023/C 288/05
Date: 2023-08-17
Institutions: Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development, European Commission
Subjects: Calabria, Italy, consumer information, designation of origin, fresh cheese, hard cheese, labelling, product designation, quality control of agricultural products, semi-soft cheese, sheep's milk cheese




C_2023288EN.01000601.xml










17.8.2023   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 288/6






Publication of an application for approval of an amendment, which is not minor, to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2), point (a), of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
(2023/C 288/05)
This publication confers the right to oppose the amendment application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.
APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF AN AMENDMENT TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION OF PROTECTED DESIGNATIONS OF ORIGIN/PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS WHICH IS NOT MINOR

Application for approval of an amendment in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012


‘Pecorino Crotonese’


EU No: PDO-IT-1111-AM01 – 24.1.2022


PDO (X) PGI ( )

1.   Applicant group and legitimate interest

Consorzio di tutela della DOP Pecorino Crotonese (‘Pecorino Crotonese’ PDO cheese protection association), Via XXV Aprile, 62 – 88900 Crotone, Italia; Tel. +39 096222432; certified email (PEC) consorziodelpecorinocrotonese@consorzio-pec.it .
The ‘Pecorino Crotone’ PDO cheese protection association is formed by ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ cheesemakers. It is entitled to submit an amendment application under Article 13(1) of Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policy Decree No 12511 of 14 October 2013.
2.   Member State or Third Country

Italy
3.   Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)







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Name of product










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Description of product










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Geographical area










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Proof of origin










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Method of production










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Link










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Labelling










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Other




4.   Type of amendment(s)







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Amendment to product specification of a registered PDO or PGI not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.










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Amendment to product specification of registered PDO or PGI for which a Single Document (or equivalent) has not been published not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.




5.   Amendment(s)


Description of product







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Amendment to Article 3 of the product specification and point 3.2 of the single document The amendment concerns the appearance of the cheeses; how they are graded by weight; and the possibility of producing non-cylindrical cheeses.




Current version:
‘“Pecorino Crotonese” has the following characteristics:






 


Shape: cylindrical with flat sides and a straight or slightly convex heel;










 


Weight: between 0,5 kg and 5 kg; cheeses that are ripened for more than six months may weigh as much as 10 kg.




Dimensions: the dimensions vary according to the weight of the cheese.
For cheeses weighing between 0,5 kg and 5 kg, the height of the heel varies between 6 cm and 15 cm and the diameter of the sides between 10 cm and 20 cm.
For cheeses weighing more than 5 kg, the height of the heel varies between 15 cm and 20 cm and the diameter between 20 cm and 30 cm.’
New version:
‘“Pecorino Crotonese” has the following characteristics:






 


Shape: cylindrical with flat or slightly convex sides and a straight or slightly convex heel;




Weight:






 


fresh cheese:






 


the small size weighs between 0,5 kg and 1,2 kg;










 


the medium size weighs between 1,3 kg and 3 kg,














 


semi-hard and ripened cheese:






 


the medium size weighs between 1,3 kg and 2,5 kg;










 


the large size weighs between 5 kg and 15 kg.








Size: the dimensions vary according to the weight of the cheese.
For cheeses weighing between 0,5 kg and 3 kg, the height of the heel varies between 5 cm and 12 cm and the diameter of the sides between 10 cm and 18 cm.
For cheeses weighing between 5 kg and 15 kg, the height of the heel varies between 12 cm and 20 cm and the diameter of the sides between 18 cm and 30 cm.’
The first amendment allows for the possibility that the sides of the cheeses may also be slightly convex. This amendment is needed because the definition laid down in the current version could lead to a literal and, therefore, restrictive interpretation, meaning it would not possible for cheeses made from raw (unpasteurised) milk to be certified as being ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ if they happened to be slightly convex in shape.
The second amendment concerns the weight of the cheeses. Definitions of what is meant by small, medium and large cheeses have been added. The proposed amendments respond to the need to protect the quality of the range of cheeses placed on the market.
Under the current version of the product specification, the possibility of producing semi-hard and ripened sheep’s milk cheeses weighing between 0,5 kg and 5,0 g meant that cheese dairies could ripen the small cheeses produced (weighing between 0,5 kg and 0,75 kg). A small percentage of small ripened cheeses appeared on the market in recent years. Small cheeses are not suitable for ripening. In fact, the tradition was that cheeses suitable for ripening had to weigh at least 1,3 kg in order to guarantee the quality of the product placed on the market.
Small cheeses do not retain the organoleptic characteristics of the PDO during ripening: the rind thickens, the cheese turns dark in colour on the inside and it gets too hard due to the loss of moisture.
The proposed amendment rules out the possibility of semi-hard and ripened cheeses weighing less than 1.3 kg being placed on the market, which is in keeping with what has been traditional for ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ PDO.
As regards the large size, the proposed amendment allows the upper threshold of the weight to be raised from 10,0 kg to 15,0 kg. Over the years that the product specification has been in place, the weight of the large cheeses has been found to have been underestimated. This has led to various non-conformities and downgrading of cheeses as a result.
The reason for this is that the cheeses are shaped by hand and the cheese mass included in each one is not weighed by electronic means. In fact, the large cheeses are formed in moulds which the cheesemakers fill up on the basis of their experience. This means that the weight of the large cheeses intended for ripening ranges between 10 and 15 kg.
The amendments set out above are also intended to make the range of sheep’s milk cheeses offered to consumers more homogeneous, thus ensuring that the product is more easily identifiable based on how it is presented. In general terms, the experience acquired in the years that the product specification has been in place has revealed the above-mentioned issues, which the proposed amendments are intended to address.
As for the production of ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ in non-cylindrical shapes, this refers exclusively to the product in question in cubed and grated form, which must be pre-packaged before being placed on the market. The aim is also to limit processing waste.

Method of production

Raw materials






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Amendment concerning Article 4 of the product specification and point 3.3 of the single document
Current version:

‘Milk: whole raw sheep’s milk, sourced exclusively from the PDO area, thermised or pasteurised in accordance with the provisions in force.
Rennet: kid rennet paste.
The development of natural lactic acid starter cultures present in the milk used to make the cheese is allowed, as is the use of natural whey starters and milk starters originating from or present in the production area.
Salt: (NaCl) rock salt.’

New version:

‘The whole sheep’s milk may be used raw or undergo heat treatment, thermisation or pasteurisation. The use of additives and preservatives is not permitted.
Rennet: kid rennet paste.
The development of natural lactic acid starter cultures present in the milk used to make the cheese is allowed, as is the use of natural whey starters and milk starters originating from or present in the production area.
The pasteurised or thermised milk may be inoculated with native lactic cultures but only starter cultures included in the archived list kept by the protection association for the PDO may be used. The list of selected sheep’s milk lactic cultures from the production area is kept at A.R.S.A.C (Azienda Regionale per lo Sviluppo dell'Agricoltura in Calabria - Regional Agency for Agricultural Development in Calabria, Viale Trieste, 95 – 87100 Cosenza). This list may be updated periodically as new research is validated by the protection association.
Salt: (NaCl) rock salt.’

The milk used to make the cheese must still be whole raw milk that has been thermised and pasteurised. It has been added that ‘the use of additives and preservatives is not permitted’, in order to leave no room for interpretation in that regard. As for the use of cultures in the process of making cheese from the pasteurised and thermised milk, it has been added that only cultures included in the archived list kept by the protection association may be used. The list was established by the protection association in collaboration with the University of Bari and it is kept by the public body A.R.S.A.C. in order to ensure that it can be accessed by all of the producers registered with the control body.
Animals’ diet










—


Amendment concerning Article 4 of the product specification and point 3.3 of the single document
Current version:

‘The year-round basic ration is made up essentially of fodder/forage from the geographical area. The livestock whose milk is used generally graze on green forage and are fed on non-fermented farm hay grown in the area. The ration may be supplemented with GMO-free concentrates from outside the geographical area, particularly on winter days when the sheep cannot graze and during the summer when rainfall is low or non-existent and grazing is not enough to feed the sheep. Supplements may not exceed 40 % of the total over the course of the year. The animals are reared semi wild: flocks are left free to graze before returning to the fold in the evening, but the animals are supervised, vaccinated and treated if necessary. Flocks are on pasture from September until June.’

New version:

‘The year-round basic ration is made up essentially of fodder/forage from the geographical area. The livestock generally graze on green forage and are fed on non-fermented farm hay grown in the area.
The addition of straight GMO-free concentrates from outside the geographical area is permitted.
Supplements may not exceed 40 % of the total over the course of the year. The animals are reared semi wild: flocks are left free to graze before returning to the fold in the evening, but the animals are supervised, vaccinated and treated if necessary.’





As regards the use of GMO-free concentrates in feeding the animals, the words ‘particularly on winter days when the sheep cannot graze’ have been deleted. The amendment has no effect on the efficacy of this requirement as the version of the product specification currently in force provided that if grazing was scarce, the animals’ ration could be supplemented with concentrates; the sole purpose of the amendment is to rule out subjective interpretations.
The second amendment concerns the period in which the sheep are left to graze (the current version of the product specification provides that it is from September to June). It was decided to remove the reference to the grazing period for the sheep because, in recent years, it is not unusual for conditions to be unsuitable for grazing in the months of July and August as a result of climate change.

Labelling







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Amendment concerning Article 8 of the product specification and point 3.6 of the single document
Current version:

‘“Pecorino Crotonese” PDO is marketed whole or in portions in compliance with the provisions in force.’

New version:

‘For cheeses weighing between 1 kg and 15 kg, “Pecorino Crotonese” is marketed whole or in portions in compliance with the provisions in force. For cheeses weighing less than 1 kg, “Pecorino Crotonese” is marketed whole.’





This amendment to the weight of the product was decided in order to specify that only cheeses weighing over 1 kg may be marketed in portions. The purpose of this amendment is to ensure a high standard of product presentation.
The small cheeses are not suitable for portioning as wedges. Splitting the 0,5 kg cheese into two 250 g portions, for example, would mean two crescents rather than a single wedge. The intention of the protection association is that ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ should continue to be sold whole and/or in portions, as the only possible formats allowed in presenting the cheese to consumers.
Dividing the cheese into portions also speeds up the maturing process, with the result that small fresh pecorino quickly takes on the properties of almost semi-hard cheese. Small cheeses dry out quickly and lose their organoleptic characteristics unless they are treated.
This amendment concerns Article 9 of the product specification (specific details of the logo) and point 3.6 (sic) of the single document.
Current wording of Article 9 [of the product specification] and point 3.6 [sic]of the single document:

‘The logo of the product comprises two fields: the graphic logo on the left and the logo lettering on the right. The logo must be imprinted onto the cheeses by fire branding or die stamping, while the lettering must be imprinted on the heel.’






New version:
Article 9 of the product specification:

‘The logo consists of the first letter of the word “Crotone/ Crotonese”, i.e. the letter “C” turned on its side - with a small mark added to represent an eye - so that it resembles a sheep’s head, encircled by the words: “PECORINO CROTONESE DOP [PDO]”. These items are in turn enclosed in a circle that resembles the shape of a whole Pecorino cheese. The circumference is broken in the bottom right corner by a triangle representing a slice of Pecorino cheese that has just been cut. The meaning is conveyed directly and immediately. It is a logo that represents a cheese product, more specifically a cheese made from high quality sheep’s milk.
The words “PECORINO CROTONESE DOP [PDO]” are depicted again within the logo, positioned on two lines one below the other, to the right of or under the “vignette”. The logo must always be displayed in its entirety. The use of the simplified logo i.e. where the outer logo is absent, is solely and exclusively allowed in the “vignette” version. However, the reverse, i.e. a logo depicting only the words “Pecorino Crotonese”, is not allowed. To sum up, there are three authorised versions of the logo: horizontal, vertical and “vignette”.
The “vignette” version of the logo must be printed on the Pecorino by fire branding, die stamping or food ink stamping on one of the sides of the cheese. The alphanumerical identification code for the cheese dairy must be displayed. It may be printed directly on the cheese using the above-mentioned methods or be displayed on the label.
The heel of the cheese may be marked on an optional basis. It is permitted to reproduce the logo on this part of the cheese using the established methods.’











Point 3.6 [sic] of the single document
The logo must always be displayed in its entirety. The use of the simplified logo i.e. where the outer logo is absent, is solely and exclusively allowed in the ‘vignette’ version. However, the reverse, i.e. a logo depicting only the words ‘Pecorino Crotonese’, is not allowed. To sum up, there are three authorised versions of the logo: horizontal, vertical and ‘vignette’.
The ‘vignette’ version of the logo must be printed on the Pecorino by fire branding, die stamping or food ink stamping on one of the sides of the cheese. The alphanumerical identification code for the cheese dairy must be displayed. It may be printed directly on the cheese using the above-mentioned methods or be displayed on the label.
The heel of the cheese may be marked on an optional basis. It is permitted to reproduce the logo on this part of the cheese using the established methods.’










The purpose of the ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ logo is to highlight the characteristics of a distinctive, high quality cheese that is linked to the production area. The logo was redesigned to reinforce this meaning, creating more harmony between the graphics and text, while at the same time allowing the use of a simplified version of the logo.
The logo combines graphics and text in a defined and recognisable ‘vignette’ form that is suitable for many uses, particularly when the cheeses are being marked (either by fire branding or die stamping).
The colours have been streamlined in the process to reduce the cost of printing the labels and ‘Brand Manual Guidelines’ have been drawn up to make it easier for those making the labels for the PDO in the various formats and colours.
SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘Pecorino Crotonese’


EU No: PDO-IT-1111-AM01 – 24.1.2022


PDO (X) PGI ( )

1.   Name(s) [of PDO or PGI]

‘Pecorino Crotonese’
2.   Member State or Third Country

Italy
3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product [listed in Annex XI]

Class 1.3 – Cheeses
3.2.   Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Pecorino Crotonese’ protected designation of origin is a hard, semi-cooked cheese produced exclusively from whole sheep’s milk.
When released for consumption in the fresh, semi-hard and ripened varieties, including when grated, it has the following physical characteristics:
Shape: cylindrical with flat or slightly convex sides and a straight or slightly convex heel;
Weight:






 


fresh cheese: the small size weighs between 0,5 kg and 1,2 kg; the medium size weighs between 1,3 kg and 3 kg.










 


semi-hard and ripened cheese: the medium size weighs between 1,3 kg and 2,5 kg; the large size weighs between 5 kg and 15 kg.




Dimensions: the dimensions vary according to the weight of the cheese.
For cheeses weighing between 0,5 kg and 3 kg, the height of the heel varies between 5 cm and 12 cm and the diameter of the sides between 10 cm and 18 cm.
For cheeses weighing between 5 kg and 15 kg, the height of the heel varies between 12 cm and 20 cm and the diameter of the sides between 18 cm and 30 cm.
‘Pecorino Crotonese’ may only be produced in non-cylindrical form for certain purposes, and exclusively when the product is going to be pre-packaged (in sliced, cubed or grated form). The goal is to limit processing waste, subject to compliance with the weight and height requirements. Non-cylindrical pieces must weigh between 1 kg and 3 kg.
The fat in dry matter must be at least 40 %; the protein content must be at least 25 % (g/100 g edible part); the moisture content must be at least 30 %, and basket marks are visible on the cheese wheels. Usage: ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ is used as a table cheese, either fresh, semi-hard or ripened, or in grated form.
Pecorino Crotonese Fresco [Fresh Pecorino Crotonese]: white or lightly straw coloured rind. Distinct, smooth and slightly tangy flavour with thin rind. The distinctive basket marks are clearly visible. The body of the cheese is soft, regular and creamy; it is milky white in colour with only a small number of eyes.
Pecorino Crotonese Semiduro [Semi-hard Pecorino Crotonese]: thick, light brown rind. Intense, well-balanced flavour. The body of the cheese is firm with only a small number of eyes.
Pecorino Crotonese Stagionato [Ripened Pecorino Crotonese] long ripening period (more than six months): hard, brown rind; may be coated (treated) with olive oil or olive dregs. Intense, distinct flavour, with a very slight piquant aftertaste. The body of the cheese is slightly straw-coloured with only a small number of eyes.
Organoleptic characteristics: when being tasted just after cutting, the cheese gives off a light scent of sheep's milk, mixed harmoniously with other scents typical of the cheese, such as hay, mature wild grasses, hazelnut and smoke.
3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The year-round basic ration is made up essentially of fodder/forage from the geographical area. The livestock whose milk is used generally graze on green forage all year round and are fed on non-fermented farm hay grown in the area. The addition of GMO-free concentrates from outside the geographical area is permitted at times when grazing is not available; this is mainly in winter, during the coldest periods when vegetation is scarce and the weather is bad, and in the summer, when there are long periods of little or no rainfall. Supplements may not exceed 40 % of the total over the course of the year. The animals are reared semi wild: flocks are left free to graze before returning to the fold in the evening, but the animals are supervised, vaccinated and treated if necessary.
The raw materials used are as follows:






—


Milk: whole raw sheep's milk, thermised or pasteurised in accordance with the provisions in force.










—


Rennet: kid rennet paste.










—


Salt: (NaCl) rock salt.




The whole sheep’s milk must come exclusively from sheep reared within the geographical area of the ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ PDO.
The whole sheep’s milk may be used raw or undergo heat treatment, thermisation or pasteurisation. The use of additives and preservatives is not permitted. The pasteurised or thermised milk may be inoculated with native lactic cultures, but only starters included in the archived list kept by the protection association for the PDO may be used. The list of selected sheep’s milk lactic cultures from the production area is kept at A.R.S.A.C (Azienda Regionale per lo Sviluppo dell'Agricoltura in Calabria - Regional Agency for Agricultural Development in Calabria, Viale Trieste, 95 – 87100 Cosenza – 87100 Cosenza). This list may be updated periodically as new research is validated by the protection association.
3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

Livestock rearing, milk production, cheese-making and ripening
3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

For cheeses weighing between 1 kg and 15 kg, ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ is marketed whole or in portions in compliance with the provisions in force. For cheeses weighing less than 1 kg, ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ is marketed whole.
3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

The label affixed to ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ includes not only the information required by law but also the following additional wordings: the ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ logo, followed by the words ‘Denominazione di Origine Protetta’ [Protected Designation of Origin] or the acronym ‘D.O.P.’ [PDO], the Union symbols and possibly a reference to the EU Regulation; the business name and address of the producer. Where the product is intended for international markets, the words ‘Protected Designation of Origin’ and the Community logo may be used in the language of the target country. The characters depicting the words ‘Pecorino Crotonese DOP [PDO]’ or the other words allowed must be grouped together in the same field of vision and be clear, legible, indelible and large enough to stand out from the background on which they are printed, so as to be clearly distinguishable from all other text and/or graphics. The trademarks of processors and traders may be included on the label, but in a smaller font size than that of the PDO logo.
The logo must always be displayed in its entirety. The use of the simplified logo i.e. where the outer logo is absent, is solely and exclusively allowed in the ‘vignette’ version. However, the reverse, i.e. a logo depicting only the words ‘Pecorino Crotonese’, is not allowed. To sum up, there are three authorised versions of the logo: horizontal, vertical and ‘vignette’.
The ‘vignette’ version of the logo must be printed on the Pecorino by fire branding, die stamping or food ink stamping on one of the sides of the cheese. The alphanumerical identification code for the cheese dairy must be displayed. It may be printed directly on the cheese using the above-mentioned methods or be displayed on the label.
The heel of the cheese may be marked on an optional basis. It is permitted to reproduce the logo on this part of the cheese using the established methods.










4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

The area where the cheese is produced and ripened comprises the entire administrative territory of the municipalities in the Province of Crotone: Belvedere Spinello, Caccuri, Carfizzi, Casabona, Castelsilano, Cerenzia, Cirò, Cirò Marina, Cotronei, Crotone, Crucoli, Cutro, Isola di Capo Rizzuto, Melissa, Mesoraca, Pallagorio, Petilia Policastro, Rocca di Neto, Roccabernarda, San Mauro Marchesato, San Nicola Dell’Alto, Santa Severina, Savelli, Scandale, Strongoli, Umbriatico and Verzino; the entire administrative territory of the following municipalities in the Province of Catanzaro: Andali, Belcastro, Botricello, Cerva, Cropani, Marcedusa, Petronà, Sellia, Sersale, Simeri Crichi, Soveria Simeri and Zagarise; and the entire administrative territory of the following municipalities in the Province of Cosenza: Bocchigliero, Calopezzati, Caloveto, Campana, Cariati, Cropalati, Crosia, Mandatoriccio, Crosia, Paludi, Pietrapaola e San Giovanni in Fiore, Scala Coeli and Terravecchia.
5.   Link with the geographical area

The geographical area of production is a homogeneous area in both geographical and historical/cultural terms and overlaps with the territory of the Marquessate of Crotone, as the area in question was known from 1390 AD onwards.
The production area is characterised by the local hills of Pliocene clay that are typical of the Province of Crotone and the mountainous area adjoining that Province between the Sila Piccola and the Sila Grande. In terms of physical geography, this area is very closely interconnected, with the Sila plateaus largely serving as the natural summer pastures for the flocks kept in the hills between those mountains and the Ionian Sea. This specific configuration of the land has influenced the local climate, which is characterised by cold winters and hot summers, but relatively small daily temperature ranges. Humidity levels are even, with average relative humidity of 58 %.
The ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ production area counts 398 sheep holdings, with a total of around 49 000 sheep. This figure has increased by around 4 % over the last ten years, going against the general trend for sheep numbers in Italy.
The rearing system used is semi-wild grazing, combined with seasonal movement to and from mountain pastures. The production area has a great deal of pastures (over 40 % of the UAA is given over to pasture and permanent grassland). The flora of the natural pastures in the Marquessate is essentially made up of fresh plant species - such as darnel, clover, chicory, sulla and alfalfa - of local ecotypes.
In the area of the PDO, the profession of master cheese-maker is considered prestigious and testifies to a long-standing, historically documented tradition. Cheesemakers' know-how is an important element of the product's specificity - indeed, production is carried out by hand. It is of prime importance that cheesemakers know how to identify the right point of coagulation of the milk in order to break up the curds with a local implement known as the ‘miscu’, reducing them to the size of rice grains. The shape of this tool allows the curds to be broken up in an energetic manner that frees a great deal of fat, to such an extent that the residual whey has a milky appearance. This whey is known locally as ‘lacciata’ and is a sign that the curds have been worked correctly. Another very important step is the agitation of the curds in order to help drain off whey (a process known as ‘frugatura’) and manual pressing of the curds into basket moulds. The curds are then agitated again and turned over to be pressed again into the baskets, before finally being immersed in the ‘lacciata’ whey. The cheese is left to acidify for one or more days before ripening is begun. As the cheese ripens, some typical moulds develop on its surface. The cheese-maker monitors this process and has to know how to recognise and thus select the cheeses that have been correctly produced and discard the others. As the cheese ripens, it is also important to assess the right moment to turn, brush or wash the cheeses and coat them with olive oil or olive dregs.
The distinctive features of ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ are: - a light scent of sheep’s milk, mixed harmoniously with other scents typical of the cheese, such as hay, mature wild grasses, hazelnut and smoke; none of these scents predominates or, at most, the sheepy scent predominates slightly; - compact flesh with only a small number of eyes. The cheese has very little elasticity in its texture in the mouth; during chewing, the granular nature of the cheese can be felt, with the granules melting nicely in the mouth after appropriate chewing. At this point the typical flavour floods the mouth, remaining pleasantly on the palate for a long time. The distinctive nature of the semi-wild rearing system means that the livestock are fed mainly on wild flora from the production area. The distinctive flavours in ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ result from specific components, such as terpenes and sesquiterpenes, which are present in appreciable quantities only in some plant families, such as Poaceae, Brassicaceae, Apiaceae, Asteraceae and others normally grazed upon by the sheep. As they are highly aromatic and linked to certain specific plants, their presence in the cheese reflects the area where the animals grazed. It is thus the wild microflora that determines the organoleptic characteristics of ‘Pecorino Crotonese’. The traditional practice of mountain grazing allows the sheep to be protected from environmental and nutritional stresses during the heat of summer, thereby allowing the milk to maintain its flavour components. The area's climate has a decisive impact on the maturing process and helps give ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ its typical structure. Over the centuries, the humidity level that characterises the area has helped shape the maturing techniques and is an important environmental resource for the cheese maturing process. In order for the cheese to ripen correctly, the humidity level must be neither too high, as this would create the risk of the cheese not drying correctly, nor too variable, so as to ensure uniform conditions during the entire ripening period. The fact that humidity levels are even on the whole means that ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ ripens gradually. This gives the cheese its distinctive physical structure, such as its firmness and lack of eyes. The inextricable link with the area's human resources, which is determined by the cheese-making technique that stems from the centuries-old local tradition of master foremen/cheesemakers, has made it possible for the Crotone area's renown in milk processing to remain unchanged. The specialist skills are particularly crucial at the stages in the process that are carried out by hand: from curdling to placing in moulds to treatment and monitoring of the cheese as it ripens. The use of natural whey starters and milk starters that originate from and exist in the production area creates an important microbiological link with the area. A whey starter deriving from local milk ensures that the cheese contains lactic acid bacteria that are typical of the area of origin, thereby helping to give the cheese its specificity. ‘Pecorino Crotonese’ cheese is an integral part of the rural space making up the production area: it can be traced back a very long time, even to before the medieval period, and documents proving exports date back as far as the 16th century. During the Austrian Vice-Regency (1707-34), cheese was exported on a massive scale. In early January 1712 in Naples, the clergyman Giacinto Tassone of Cutro sold the Neapolitan merchant Aniello Montagna ‘200 cantara of Cotrone cheese from the current season of this year, neither swollen, worm-eaten, broken nor cracked’. During the last 25 years too, the name has been in continuous use on product labels and by an organisation of local breeders, and there have been numerous attempts at imitation by producers from areas outside the region.

Reference to publication of the product specification

The consolidated text of the product specification is available on the following website: http://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/3335
or alternatively:






 


by going directly to the home page of the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policy (www.politicheagricole.it) and clicking on ‘Qualità’ (at the top right of the screen), then on ‘Prodotti DOP IGP STG’ (on the left-hand side of the screen) and finally on ‘Disciplinari di Produzione all’esame dell’UE’.






(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.