Publication of an application for registration of a name pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs 2023/C 287/05
Date: 2023-08-16
Institutions: Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development, European Commission
Subjects: Türkiye, bread, consumer information, designation of origin, labelling, product designation, quality control of agricultural products








C_2023287EN.01000601.xml










16.8.2023   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 287/6






Publication of an application for registration of a name pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
(2023/C 287/05)
This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.
SINGLE DOCUMENT

’Maraş Tarhanası'


EU No: PGI-TR-02611 – 1 June 2020


PDO () PGI (X)

1.   Name(s) [of PDO or PGI]

’Maraş Tarhanası'
2.   Member State or Third Country

Turkey
3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product

Class 2.3. Bread, pastry, cakes, confectionery, biscuits and other baker’s wares
3.2.   Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Maraş Tarhanası’ is a fermented food that is a dried mixture of cooked wheat, yogurt, thyme and salt, with black sesame, pepper, walnut and almond. Wheat, yogurt, salt and thyme are obligatory, and black sesame, pepper, walnut, almond are optional. After fermentation black sesame, pepper, spice, walnut, almond can be added according to personal preference. It is preferred according to personal taste. Thyme (obligatory) is added in the range of 0,1-0,3 %, black sesame (optional) is added in the range of 5-20 % and pepper, spice, walnut, almond are (optional) added in the range of 20-30 % per 100 kg. It has a flat shape and has thin sheets. It is crispy.
‘Maraş Tarhanası’ production is seasonal as it is dried under the sun but it can be eaten all year long. ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ can be eaten on its own or can be consumed in different ways (consumed by making soup, frying in oil, baking, soaking in broth).
The two main ingredients that comprise ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ are yogurt and cracked wheat.
‘Maraş Tarhanası’ has the nutritional content derived from naturally occurring metabolic elements found in yogurt and cracked wheat. In the process of making ‘Maraş Tarhanası’, the yogurt is not cooked; thus natural pro-biotic cultures are preserved. The natural fermentative yeasts derived from yogurt and wheat enrich the aromatic taste of ‘Maraş Tarhanası’.
It has functional properties with its natural prebiotic additives coming from cracked wheat.
It provides a combination of vegetable and animal proteins, containing approximately 370 calories in every 100 grams of ‘Maraş Tarhanası’.

‘Maraş Tarhanası’ is dried in the sun in paper-thin layers (in ovens if the weather conditions are not suitable).

Physical characteristics:







 



‘Maraş Tarhanası’ has a production standard of 1 mm to 3 mm as a stand-alone snack. It is crispy and dried. Those produced only for soup can be produced thicker upon request.










 


Thickness: 1 mm to 3 mm










 


Length: There is no absolute length range. Dried tarhana is broken and shortened.










 


Form: According to its fracture, it is a structure with edges of an undefined shape.










 


Color: Varies from light cream to dark cream





Organoleptic characteristics:







 



‘Maraş Tarhanası’ has a more pronounced sour taste than average to due to the fermentation process of the yogurt it contains. Depending on the temperature when it has been produced it can be more or less sour.










 



‘Maraş Tarhanası’ has a pleasant scent arising from the mixture of dried fermented yogurt and thyme.





Chemical characteristics:

Composition of 100 grams of ‘Maraş Tarhanası’:







Parameters


Maximum


Minimum




Protein


16,77  %


13,23  %




Fat


4,99  %


1,7  %




Moisture


9,13  %


6,24  %




Salt


3,00  %


0,00  %




pH


3,7 


2,79 




Acidity


40,85  %


17,75  %




Lactic Acidity


7  %


0,5  %




3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

Ingredients of ‘Maraş Tarhanası’:






—


Cracked Wheat (obligatory)










—


Yogurt (obligatory)




Yogurt is added to the cooked wheat on a ratio of at least one-to-two.






—


Thyme (obligatory)










—


Salt (obligatory)




Salt is added in the range of 0 % - 3 %.
Thyme is added in the range of 0,1 %-0,3 %
Black sesame (optional in the range of 5 % - 20 %.)
Pepper, spice, walnut, almond (optional in the range of 20 % - 30 %.)
3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

All steps in the production processes must take place within the defined geographical area specified in point 4.
3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

—
3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

Labels must include the following:






—


The name of the designation ‘Maraş Tarhanası’,










—


Trade name and address or short name and address or registered mark of the producer,










—


European Union PGI logo,










—


The contents of the product, ratio of components net amount of the product, recommended consumption date, storage and usage information, serial number or batch number, production authorization date










—


Drying method




4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

The area of production is the whole Kahramanmaraş province.
5.   Link with the geographical area


Specificities of the product

The production of ’Maraş Tarhanası' has conditions specific to the geographical border and requires mastery skills. For this reason, all production stages of 'Maraş Tarhanası', which has a reputation with the province, take place within the specified geographical limit.
The causal link is based on the product characteristics due to the natural factors and human factors of the geographical origin and its reputation.
‘Maraş Tarhanası’ has particular characteristics due to its origin. Unlike other Tarhanas, ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ has an exclusive regional way of production as it includes yogurt in its preparation after cooking the cracked wheat and just before the drying process. This way of production gives it a sour taste and a long conservation time. Fermented and pro-biotic identity of the product and being able to be consumed alone are its characteristic features. The most important feature that distinguishes ’Maraş Tarhanası' from other tarhanas is that yogurt is not cooked and it is consumed solely. A symbiotic character is formed with the combination of the prebiotic character from the crack and the probiotic from the yogurt. This fermentation brings out the unique smell and taste of the food, namely its aroma.
‘Maraş Tarhanası’ is laid on ‘çiğ’(mats) and dried in the sun (in ovens if the weather conditions are not suitable).
Although not preferred, when the weather conditions are not suitable it can be dried in ovens on unsunny and very cloudy days. This has been a necessity for sudden weather changes on sunny days, especially considering climate change. Otherwise, the laid product must be discarded. The drying method of the product must be indicated on the package label. This method is a drying technique by passing over a conveyor belt with air circulation and tunnel system. The maximum drying temperature must be maximum 60 degrees celsius. Above 70 degrees celsius, all yogurt bacteria die and the product does not consist of any prebiotic specification. The only difference between tarhana dried in the sun and on a conveyor belt with suitable conditions is its vitamin D content. 'Maraş Tarhanası', which is dried only in the sun, contains D vitamins. Generally, tarhana that does not dry in the sun is not preferred, so the drying method of the product must be stated on the package label.
‘Maraş Tarhanası’ has a high content in lactobacilli and therefore ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ have a medium to strong sour taste.
‘Maraş Tarhanası’ also has a particular shape consisting of thin sheets.

‘Maraş Tarhanası’ is prepared with a different method specific to Kahramanmaraş. Its chemical identity, production and the ways of consumption make it different from other regions' tarhana.

‘Maraş Tarhanası’ is different with its special taste, shape, way of preparation and gathering from all tarhanas in Turkey.
Other tarhanas in Turkey except ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ are in powder form and this powdered variety of tarhana is usually made from flour and yogurt and they are only used to make tarhana soup, and can not be eaten solely, but ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ can be.

Natural factors

The ever present breeze in Kahramanmaraş during the months of July and August plays an essential role in the drying process in the production of tarhana, adding an original factor to the product. Appropriate weather conditions are followed for the making of tarhana. Because dry air and rainless is also important to have wind to act as an air conditioner in the process.
The direction and strenght of the winds is an important requirement in the production of authentic ‘Maraş Tarhanası’.
In Turkey, the Kahramanmaraş province receives a higher than average amount of sunshine, which is another important factor in tarhana production.






—


A constant breeze during the months of summer to early Autumn










—


No rain and dry air helping the wind to act as a natural dryier
Monthly Average Humidity (2020):






Kahramanmaraş:


July 46,61 % - August 41,56 % (Kahramanmaras Provincial Directorate of Meteorology)




Turkey:


July 51,7 % - August 47,7 %














—


Direction and strength of the winds
Monthly Average Wind Speed (2020):






Kahramanmaraş:


July 5,7 (m/sn) - August 6,28 (m/sn)




Turkey:


July 1,8 (m/sn) - August 2,1 (m/sn)














—


High amount of sunshine
Monthly Average Sunshine Intensity (2020):






Kahramanmaraş:


July 668,3 (cal/cm2) - August 632,7 (cal/cm2)




Turkey:


July 535,7 (cal/cm2) - August 483,2 (cal/cm2)














—


High temperatures
Monthly Average Temperature (2020):






Kahramanmaraş:


July 30,25 °C - August 29,25 °C




Turkey:


July 25,6 °C - August 24,8 °C









Human factors

Throughout Turkey, ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ is associated to the province of Kahramanmaraş. It is a food product special to Kahramanmaraş, where it holds an important place as a traditional food.
‘Maraş Tarhanası’, prepared with a different method specific to Kahramanmaraş has become an indispensable food for the people of Kahramanmaraş. In Kahramanmaraş, tarhana has an important place in city life as a different cultural element. ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ has not only a historical accumulation but also continues to remain the ethnic-cultural element of the region.
After the first cooking and once the mixture is cooled, the yogurt is added and it is laid for fermentation. During this production step, lactobacilli develops. Then ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ is laid on çiğ (mats) in order to let dry in the sun. A long experience is necessary to spread the mixture properly on the mats as it needs to be equal in density and thickness. All these experiences have been transferred from generation to generation.
In every region of Turkey, milled wheat and flour are used in local products called ‘tarhana’. ‘Maras Tarhanası’ is special in terms of its ingredients, production process and the different ways in which it is eaten. The specific wheat type, the shape of the tarhana (thin sheets) and the natural drying process are all identifying characteristics of authentic ‘MaraşTarhanası’.
The addition of thyme and black sesame (optional) imparts an aromatic herbal flavour gives further distinguishing from the other tarhanas.
The process of making ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ is also product-specific. In the production of tarhana made in other localities, lactobacilli, which are the pro-biotic microorganisms in yogurt, are destroyed during the cooking stage, losing all of its beneficial vitality. In the production of ‘Maraş Tarhanası’, yogurt is not added during the cooking stage, but after the cooked cracked wheat is cooled. If used, this is also when thyme and black sesame, pepper, spice, walnut, almond (optional) are added to the mixture, which is then allowed to ferment in cloth- lined baskets for about 10-12 hours before being spread on mats to dry.
It is a typical traditional food which involves a lot of skilled manpower. During the elaboration phase, the mixing process of cracked wheat with boiled water, which is called ‘kürekleme’ also requirs a lot of expertise as the mixture should not burn. Kürekleme has its own method. It is done with a tool called tarhana küreği, which is carved from wood between 120-150 cm.
The tarhana küreği should be held and moved in a way that the paddle can rotate freely in hand so that the hand of the person who will do the mixing does not swell. People do the mixing work in order not to let the mixture burn at the bottom of the caldron and the shovel should be wetted from time to time and kürekleme should be continued. In order to dry the cooked tarhana, mastery and experience are required in the spreading process. Kürekleme process has been mechanized for modern factory production. In factory production mixer chrome boilers are used but there are some crucial points to maintain a certain quality of the product. This mixture is made under the supervision of a master to avoid watering, sticking to the pan and burn. For reaching its consistency a master oversight is crucial. Because it is not possible to give a standard time for mixing cooking. Depending on the type of yoghurt and cracked wheat used, it is possible for each mixture to reach a consistency in different times. It is not possible to produce only with automatic mixing process.
Once dried, ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ is gathered in large and small strips in the shape of chips.
The product acquires a fermented identity, with fermentative yeasts from the cracked wheat and lactobacilli from yogurt carrying out a simultaneous fermentation. It is the most important feature of ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ that distinguishes it from other Tarhana species. The making process of ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ is exclusive and special to the product.
This whole process gives a sour taste to it. Moreover, the fermentation process helps the product to be preserved longer and it can be eaten all year long. ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ can be stored for a year in a dry and cool place. The period for making tarhana is between the beginning of June and the end of October.

Reputation

The link between 'Maraş Tarhanası ' and its geographical area is also based on reputation like its specifications, natural factors and human factors of the geographical area.
According to the rumor, during the Dulkadiroğlu Principality, Yavuz Sultan Selim had prepared ‘Maraş Tarhanası' by the people of the region for his army, while he was crossing the Sinai desert during the Ridaniye Campaign on his way to Egypt. It is rumored that Yavuz Sultan Selim learned ‘Maraş Tarhanası' from his mother, Ayşe Hatun (Gülbahar Sultan) was from Kahramanmaraş and he preferred tarhana hence it is light, it has high nutritional value and keeps you full and it is durable enough not to spoil in heat and cold. This rumor is mentioned in all local and national sources and is known by every Maras citizen. (Simsekli, N., Dogan, I. (2015). Traditional and Maraş Tarhana as a Functional Product. Iğdır University Graduate School of Natural and Applied Sciences Magazine. 5(4): 33-40.).
An American officer Stanley Kerr took a photograph showing the spread of tarhana in 1919 in Kahramanmaraş. ‘Maraş Tarhanası' is being spread under the supervision of the trainer in American Orphanage for winter.
By its structure; In Divan-ı Lügat-it Türk, ‘tar’ means yoghurt stored from summer to winter, and in Persian, the words ‘terhuvane’ and ‘terhime’ are used (Dayısoylu, İnanç, Duman, Gezginç & Özsisli, 2003)
You can learn how people make ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ in Kahramanmaraş by the documentary, ‘Maraş Tarhanası Nasıl Üretiliyor?- Ev Yapımı -TRT Avaz’, was prepared by the Turkish Radio and Television Corporation (TRT) İzmir Television in the summer of 2012 under the coordination of the Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism.
In the book which offers numerous recipes of traditional foods from across the world written by Kristberg Kristbergsson, and Jorge Oliveira, ‘Traditional Foods, General and Consumer Aspects’, Springer; 1st ed, March 10, 2016, you can find ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ from Kahramanmaraş in the page 94.
‘Maraş Tarhanası’ has been the subject of many scientific articles, journals, thesis and symposiums with its value, production process and ethnic and cultural aspects.
In a research article published in Journal of Social and Humanities Sciences, ‘Maraş Tarhanası ve Gelişim Süreci’, Kaya, M. & Seçim, Y. (2020), mentioned that tarhana is a food product known all over Turkey but ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ is a food product that is diversified with many methods and contents and becomes unique to the region and consumed by the wide public. With this aspect, 'Maraş Tarhanası' stands out as a local product. Thanks to this feature, the product reached its geographical mark which is very important for the gastronomy world in July 2010.
In Food Bioscience which is a journal that aims to provide a forum for recent developments in the field of bio-related food research, focuses on both fundamental and applied research worldwide, with special attention to ethnic and cultural aspects of food bioresearch, a study is published of monitoring of acid development in fermentation of ‘Maraş Tarhanası’. The study is about using different yoghurt cultures and its effects on ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ (Dağ, Ü. & İnanç, A. L. (2019). Farklı Endüstriyel Yoğurt Kültürleri Kullanarak Maraş Tarhana Hamurunun Fermantasyonunda Asit Gelişiminin İzlenmesi ve Tarhanaya Etkileri . Kahramanmaraş Sütçü İmam Üniversitesi Mühendislik Bilimleri Dergisi , 22 (1) , 1-9 . DOI: 10.17780/ksujes.436311).

Causal link

Thanks to the natural factors of the geographical area that presents a long dry summer with constant winds, and the human factors that have developed a particular tradition and specific skills with specific ingredients (yogurt) and method (the yogurt is added after the cooking of the mixture). ‘Maraş Tarhanası’ has its specific characteristics due to its origin in the province of Kahramanmaraş.

Reference to publication of the specification

—


(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.