Publication of a communication of approval of a standard amendment to a product specification for a name in the wine sector referred to in Article 17(2) and (3) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33 2023/C 135/05
Date: 2023-04-18
Institutions: Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development, European Commission
Subjects: Greece, Ionian Islands, consumer information, designation of origin, labelling, product designation, quality control of agricultural products, white wine








C_2023135EN.01001201.xml










18.4.2023   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 135/12






Publication of a communication of approval of a standard amendment to a product specification for a name in the wine sector referred to in Article 17(2) and (3) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33
(2023/C 135/05)
This communication is published in accordance with Article 17(5) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33 (1).
COMMUNICATING THE APPROVAL OF A STANDARD AMENDMENT

‘Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας’


PDO-GR-A1240-AM01


Date of communication: 18 January 2022


DESCRIPTION OF AND REASONS FOR THE APPROVED AMENDMENT

1.   The amendment includes correcting the alcoholic strength of the dry white wine

In particular:






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The range of natural alcoholic strength has increased from 11,0-12,6 % vol. to 11,0-13,6 % vol.










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The maximum actual alcoholic strength has increased from 12,5 % to 13,5 % vol.










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The maximum total alcoholic strength has increased from 12,5 % to 13,5 % vol.










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Minimum actual alcoholic strength has been defined as 11,0 % vol.




Rationale: extremely hot and dry weather conditions have become more and more frequent in recent years. As a result, the grapes lose moisture and ripen rapidly, making it difficult to keep the level of alcoholic strength below 12,5 % vol.
Specifically, in recent years, the parameter ‘maximum temperature’ has shown a marked increase for the months of May to August, which are key for the development and ripening of the grapes. This observation is based on meteorological data from the website ‘meteoblue’ for 1990 to 2020, as well as local data from the Robola area. The latter come from the three weather stations established by the Robola Cooperative with the Ionian University, and in place since 2013.
Organoleptic checks show that Robola wines maintain their typicity between 12,5 % and 13,6 % vol., while in many cases, the quality characteristics of the wines are actually enhanced.
In general, the Robola grape variety has small berries. Each berry has two to three seeds, meaning that the weight of the seeds represents a higher than average part of the overall weight. In the Robola variety, the seeds begin to show ripeness after 12 degrees Baumé. When the grapes are pressed, unripe seeds contribute green ‘unripe’ tannins to the wine, which is an undesirable characteristic for Robola.
Furthermore, in order to make best use of new wine-making techniques, such as cold maceration, and really bring out the characteristics of the variety as much as possible, the grapes must be nicely ripe at 12,5 to 13,0 degrees Baumé.
The section on ‘Description of the wine’ has been amended.
2.   Updating of the technical file for the Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας PDO

In the context of updating the technical files, the following changes have been made to the product specification:






i)


The section on ‘Link with the geographical area’ has been expanded, specifically the parts on ‘Details of the geographical area’, ‘Product details’ and ‘Causal interaction’.










ii)


National provisions have been added and replaced regarding the applicable requirements and controls for PDO wines.










iii)


Details of the competent control authorities have been changed.




The sections on ‘Link with the geographical area’, ‘Applicable requirements’ and ‘Details of control authorities and bodies’ have been amended.
SINGLE DOCUMENT
1.   Name(s)

Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας
2.   Geographical indication type

PDO - Protected Designation of Origin
3.   Categories of grapevine product









1.


Wine




4.   Description of the wine(s)


Dry white wine

CONCISE TEXTUAL DESCRIPTION
Appearance: greenish white colour with golden-yellow tints, depending on the wine-making technique and the time of bottling.
Aroma: floral aromas of citrus and fruity aromas of peach, citron and apple, medium intensity. The aroma is characterised by a presence of minerality, a steeliness, which is a typical expression of the grape variety in the island’s terroir.
Taste: flavoursome in the mouth with characteristic refreshing acidity, presence of carbon dioxide bubbles, and a long aftertaste.






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Natural alcoholic strength: 11,0-13,6 % vol.










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Maximum actual alcoholic strength: 13 5,% vol.










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Total sugar content: Maximum 4,0 grams per litre






General analytical characteristics




Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume)


13,5




Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume)


11




Minimum total acidity


4 grams per litre expressed as tartaric acid




Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre)


18




Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre)


200








5.   Wine-making practices

5.1.   Specific oenological practices

1.   Vine training systems

Cultivation method
The vines are trained to gobelet or single cordon with up to six spurs, each with two buds. Vines become productive more than 4 years after grafting. Cultivation techniques not part of the region’s ancestral traditions are not permitted.
2.   Specific oenological practices used to make the wines

Specific oenological practice
In order to use the indication ‘Επιλεγμένος’ or ‘Réserve’, the dry white wines with the Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας (Robola of Kephalonia) PDO must:






—


have undergone a total ageing of at least 1 year, of which at least 6 months must be in oak barrels and 3 months in bottles.




In order to use the indication ‘Ειδικά Επιλεγμένος’ or ‘Grande Réserve’, the dry white wines with the Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας (Robola of Kephalonia) PDO must:






—


have undergone a total ageing of at least 2 years, of which at least 12 months must be in oak barrels and 6 months in bottles.




3.   White wine-making

Restrictions related to wine-making
White wine with the Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας PDO is made by the classic method for white wine. The crushing of grapes and transformation of the must into wine takes place in wineries with appropriate facilities for the use of modern production technology for white wines. The grapes must not be crushed in continuous presses. The temperature during alcoholic fermentation must be less than 20 °C.
5.2.   Maximum yields







1.


Maximum yield in hectolitres of end product per hectare
56 hectolitres per hectare










2.


Maximum yield in kilograms of grapes per hectare
8 000 kilograms of grapes per hectare




6.   Demarcated geographical area

The Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας PDO area is situated at least 50 metres above sea-level, within the boundaries of the following local communities: Omala, Davgata, Dilinata, Troianata and Faraklata. Also included are the areas located above the Argostoli - Poros provincial road in the local communities of Moussata and Vlachata of Cephalonia.
7.   Wine grape varieties

Robola Β
8.   Description of the link(s)

8.1.   Historical, cultural, social and economic link

I.   Historical link

Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας wine is the island’s flagship product. It represents local products and is a point of reference for the local people and for emigrants from Cephalonia all over the world.
Vine cultivation on Cephalonia has deep roots which are shrouded in legend. Cephalus arrived in order to settle in the colony of his homeland, Athenian land as it was. No sooner had he set foot on the island, he planted the vine which he had with him to remind of his homeland. In time, the Athenian land became the land of Thinia, from which the island took its name.
In later years, the first written record of the cultivation of Robola comes from a document dated 1520, and concerns an inventory of church property. Shortly after, there is another reference in a letter of 25 January 1544, from a certain Guglielmo Defarana to the Roman Catholic bishop of the island. In 1557, the Italian traveller Pellegrino Brocardi also mentioned Robola, both the grape and the wine made from it, which he praised highly.
While some speculate that there are links with Italian white varieties, it is safer to assume that it is a local grape variety. Indeed, recent archaeological studies have shown that vine cultivation was known in Greece from the Neolithic period. In addition, the early Greek colonisation of all parts of the Mediterranean laid the foundations for the subsequent development of vine cultivation.
Cultivation of Robola has followed the island’s fortunes and development ever since. In 1836, Andreas Laskaratos, iconic man of letters for Cephalonia in the 19th century, in his canonical work Lixouri in 1836, Book II, verse 54, says: ‘Forgive me for everything I have said, as I have drunk Robola wine’. It is a part of the character of this variety that its cultivation has been part of the foundations of local rural culture since ancient times.
II.   Cultural, social and economic link

The Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας PDO is the only Greek wine PDO to take the name not only of the area but also of the grape variety. Robola is the most widely planted variety on Cephalonia. It thrives in generally poor, infertile soils, sometimes so poor that the Italians called the wine ‘Vino di Sasso’ meaning ‘stone wine’.
On the slopes of Mount Ainos, there are still many ungrafted vines which are especially old. ‘Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας’ wine is woven deep into the culture, the local cuisine and the daily life of the local people, as well as tourism on the island.
8.2.   Geographical environment and geographical origin

Geographical environment and geographical origin
Terrain
The terrain of the ‘Robola Area’ is mainly sub-moutainous, limestone, infertile, gravelly and sloping. However, the grape variety has fully adapted to such terrain and produces a wine with the noted specific characteristics.
Terrain of this type produces low yields: 5 000 to 6 000 kilograms of grapes per hectare.
Climate
The climate of the region means that the grapes ripen early, between 15 and 18 August, which helps to produce good quality raw materials. Early ripening prevents the diseases caused by the early September rains, for example botrytis and sour rot, to which Robola is particularly susceptible.
The area records high rainfall in winter, with an average of 1 200 millimetres per year. The summers, however, are very dry but this is not disastrous as summer evenings are especially cool as a result of the damp island breeze from Mount Ainos. All of these factors enable the plants to cope with the heat shock of the day.
Topography
The topography of Cephalonia is mountainous. There are significant differences of elevation, steep slopes and significant vertical displacement. The highest elevation is 1 628 metres, the highest peak of Mount Ainos, known as Megas Soros.
Mount Ainos is a national park. It is largely covered by the island’s native Greek fir trees (Abies cephalonica), especially on the eastern side.
Located in the south-west part of the island, the national park extends in a north-west to south-east direction. In general, the peaks of Mount Ainos extend in the same north-northwest direction. They are: Roudi (1 125 m), Manolati (1 000 m), Vrochonas (946 m), Xerakias (1 068 m), Merovigli (994 m), Agia Dynati (1 131 m) and Kalon Oros (901 m). Other peaks extend southeast-east, including the rather more detached mountains of Atros (895 m), Kokkini Rachi (1 082 m) and Avgo (929 m).
The mountain ranges, valleys and plains follow three main axes: i) NW-SE, ii) NE-SW and iii) N-S with minor deviations. These axes correspond to geological folds, fractures along the length of which precipitous descents have formed, for example steep coastlines, also fractures along which the mechanical stress of rocks has facilitated selective corrosion, giving rise to the formation of numerous ravines and valleys.
On account of its tectonic position, Cephalonia is an island with a rich geology, providing an excellent illustration of the power of geological processes with its numerous and very varied geological formations. It is a characteristic of the island that the greater part of its surface is covered by limestone.
The aforementioned characteristics can also be found in the ‘Robola Area’. The Robola vineyards are situated in the sub-mountainous terrain of the island, that is below 1 000 metres in altitude, in a morphologically diverse landscape, unlike an island landscape, in the ‘hinterland’ of Cephalonia. In this sloping sub-mountainous landscape, two poljes (depressions) have been formed. One is in Omala and the other in Troianata.
8.3.   Product details and causal interaction

I.   Product details

The combination of the climate conditions with the varieties of soils in the area, the grape variety grown and the vine-cultivation and wine-making techniques used, contributes to the quality characteristics of the wines with the Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας PDO.
Wine with the Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας PDO is produced exclusively from the local Greek grape variety Robola. Robola is especially sensitive to diseases and also to drought. It requires suitable conditions in order to display its virtues. The Ionian island of Cephalonia is its main area of cultivation. It is also where the wines with the Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας PDO are produced.
Despite its vulnerable nature, which requires infertile and preferably mountainous terrain, it is productive. As a result, for good Robola, it is necessary to limit the yields in certain parts of the area. As it oxidises easily, it requires the same care in wine-making, which usually takes place entirely in stainless steel containers.
Wines with the Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας PDO are a greenish-white colour with golden-yellow tints, depending on the wine-making technique and time of bottling. Aromas vary according to the type of wine and ageing. The characteristic aromas are of medium intensity, with floral aromas of citrus and fruity aromas of peach, citron and apple. The wines have a fresh and intense acidity, and are full-bodied with a long aftertaste. There is also a ‘European’ minerality present, which is a typical expression of the grape variety in the island’s terroir.
II.   Causal interaction

The specific characteristics of the area include: the west south-west aspect of the vineyards, proximity to Mount Ainos with its fir tree forests, and the proximity to the sea. In combination with the grape variety and the wine-making techniques used, these characteristics are responsible for the uniqueness of the wines with the Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας PDO.
The Robola area is sub-mountainous with steep slopes, characterised by limestone, gravel and infertile soils. Its climate is characterised by high levels of rainfall in winter and hot, dry summer days. However, these are offset by exceptionally cool nights, a phenomenon caused by the sea breeze that ascends through the vineyards to the peak of Mount Ainos. The Ionian Sea ‘quenches the thirst’ of the Robola area while the moisture of the summer nights, ‘lifting’ like a magic veil, gives ‘the breath of life’ to the varied natural landscape of the Mount Ainos national park. There, in that rare configuration of mountain and sea, the land of Robola renders its treasure to humanity.
Specifically, the methods of cultivation for Robola have remained very much the same over the years because the form of the holdings has not changed.
Land holdings are small. The agricultural inputs used are generally mild, as are the traditional methods of combating diseases, with use of copper sulphate predominating. It is a characteristic of the entire area that weeds are not managed by the use of weed-killer, but by working the land, sometimes even manually.
On account of the infertile soil, the slopes and the lack of moisture during the summer, the vines are trained to low gobelet with four to five shoots. Each spur is pruned to two buds.
Given the above conditions, development of the plants’ foliage is limited. In order to shade the inner parts of the plants and protect the grapes from the sun’s rays, producers use a traditional technique of twisting the stems inwards and binding them. Locally this is known as ‘koutsouniama’.
All of the above combine with the gentle cultivation practices followed by the producers for centuries. As a result, the Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας wines demonstrate specific characteristics, including the very distinctive aromas which combine with ‘incisive steeliness’, characteristic acidity, balance and consistency of flavour.
In conclusion, wine with the Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας PDO is the island’s flagship product. Chief among local products, it is a point of reference for the local people and for people from Cephalonia all over the world.
The vines have pale yellowish-coloured, thin-skinned, round grapes. They are especially well adapted to the mountains, which are usually steep with poor, limestone and gravelly soils, and grow in an environment of high rainfall in winter and dry summers. The result is the presence of aromas combined with ‘incisive steeliness’, characteristic acidity, balance and consistency of flavour.
9.   Essential further conditions (packaging, labelling, other requirements)


Derogations

Legal framework:
In EU legislation
Type of further condition:
Derogation for production in the demarcated geographical area
Description of the condition:
Article 5(1) of Commission Regulation (EU) 2019/33
supplementing Regulation (EU) No 1308/2013 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards applications for protection of designations of origin, geographical indications and traditional terms in the wine sector, the objection procedure, restrictions of use, amendments to product specifications, cancellation of protection, and labelling and presentation

Derogations

Legal framework:
In national legislation
Type of further condition:

Derogation for production in the demarcated geographical area

Description of the condition:
Decision No 386323/3803/10.11.1976 of the Minister for Agriculture (Government Gazette, Series II, No 1407/25.11.1976) on the processing of grapes outside the area for wines with a designation of origin.
The Decision confers the right the crush the grapes and vinify the must to make wines with the Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας PDO in any winery on the island of Cephalonia, provided that they meet the requirements for producing the PDO wines.

Additional provisions relating to wine labelling

Legal framework:
In national legislation
Type of further condition:

Additional provisions relating to labelling

Description of the condition:
I.   Terms referring to certain production methods

In Ministerial Decision No 280557/9.6.2005 laying down the time of maturation, ageing and placing on the market of wines with a Superior Quality Designation of Origin and Local Wines, and the terms used in the labelling of such wines that relate to their production method or preparation methods (Government Gazette, Series II, No 818/15.6.2005), Article 1 refers to the conditions for using the following indications:






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‘ΝΕΟΣ ΟΙΝΟΣ’ or ‘ΝΕΑΡΟΣ ΟΙΝΟΣ’ (NEW WINE)










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‘ΩΡΙΜΑΝΣΗ ΣΕ ΒΑΡΕΛΙ’ or ‘ΩΡΙΜΑΣΕ ΣΕ ΒΑΡΕΛΙ’ (BARREL MATURED)










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‘ΠΑΛΑΙΩΜΕΝΟΣ ΣΕ ΒΑΡΕΛΙ’ or ‘ΠΑΛΑΙΩΣΗ ΣΕ ΒΑΡΕΛΙ’ (BARREL AGED)




II.   Stating the vintage on the label

Where the terms ‘ΝΕΟΣ ΟΙΝΟΣ’ or ‘ΝΕΑΡΟΣ ΟΙΝΟΣ’ (‘NEW WINE’) are used on the labelling of wines, it is mandatory to print the vintage year, in accordance with Article 1(2) of Ministerial Decision No 280557/9.6.2005 laying down the time of maturation, ageing and placement on the market of wines with Superior Quality Designation of Origin and Local Wines, as well as of the terms used in labelling thereof relating to their production method or preparation methods (Government Gazette, Series II, No 818/15.6.2005).
III.   Traditional terms







—


Traditional terms in accordance with Ministerial Decision No 235309/7.2.2002 on the approval of traditional terms used for wines which are linked to the designation of origin or the geographical indication.
Under the above Ministerial Decision, the traditional terms which can be used on the labelling of wines with the Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας PDO are:
ΛΕΥΚΟΣ ΑΠΟ ΛΕΥΚΑ ΣΤΑΦΥΛΙΑ / Blanc de blancs, ΟΙΝΟΣ ΛΟΦΩΝ / Vin de collines [Wine from hillsides], ΟΙΝΟΣ ΠΛΑΓΙΩΝ / Vin de côteaux [Wine from slopes], ΑΠΟ ΝΗΣΙΩΤΙΚΟ(ΥΣ) ΑΜΠΕΛΩΝΑ(ΕΣ)/ Vin de vignobles insulaires [Wine from island vineyards], ΑΠΟ ΟΡΕΙΝΟ(ΥΣ) ΑΜΠΕΛΩΝΑ(ΕΣ) Ή ΑΠΟ ΟΡΕΙΝΑ ΚΡΑΣΑΜΠΕΛΑ / Vin de vignobles montagneux [Wine from mountain vines].










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Traditional terms in accordance with Article 112 of Regulation (EU) No 1308/2013 which are linked to the designation of origin or geographical indication.
In accordance with Article 113 of Regulation (EU) No 1308/2013 and as defined and registered in the electronic database ‘E-Bacchus’, traditional terms that may be used in the labelling of wines with the Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας Protected Designation of Origin, on condition that they meet the relevant conditions of EU and national legislation, are as follows:
Ονομασία Προέλευσης Ανωτέρας Ποιότητας (ΟΠΑΠ) (Superior Quality Designation of Origin (SQDO)) instead of the PDO, Αγρέπαυλη (Agrepavlis), Αμπέλι (Ampeli), Αμπελώνας (ες) (Ampelonas(es)), Αρχοντικό (Archontiko), Ειδικά επιλεγμένος (Specially selected), Επιλογή or Επιλεγμένος (Selection or Selected), Κάστρο (Kastro), Κτήμα (Ktima), Μετόχι (Metochi), Μοναστήρι (Monastiri), Ορεινό Κτήμα (Oreino Ktima), Ορεινοί Αμπελώνες (Oreinoi Ampelones) and Πύργος (Pyrgos).





Additional provisions relating to wine labelling

Legal framework:
In EU legislation
Type of further condition:
Additional provisions relating to labelling
Description of the condition:
Article 53(1)(2) and (6) of Regulation (EU) 2019/33 supplementing Regulation (EU) No 1308/2013 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards applications for protection of designations of origin, geographical indications and traditional terms in the wine sector, the objection procedure, restrictions of use, amendments to product specifications, cancellation of protection, and labelling and presentation.

Link to the product specification

http://www.minagric.gr/images/stories/docs/agrotis/POP-PGE/2021/prodiagrafh_rompola_kef170122.pdf


(1)  OJ L 9, 11.1.2019, p. 2.