Publication of an application for approval of an amendment, which is not minor, to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs 2022/C 410/10
Date: 2022-10-26
Institutions: Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development, European Commission
Subjects: Italy, Lombardy, consumer information, cows’ milk cheese, designation of origin, labelling, product designation, quality control of agricultural products




C_2022410EN.01001201.xml










26.10.2022   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 410/12






Publication of an application for approval of an amendment, which is not minor, to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
(2022/C 410/10)
This publication confers the right to oppose the amendment application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.
APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF AN AMENDMENT TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION OF PROTECTED DESIGNATIONS OF ORIGIN/PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS WHICH IS NOT MINOR

Application for approval of an amendment in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012


‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’


EU No: PDO-IT-0009-AM01 – 6.7.2021


PDO (X) PGI ( )

1.   Applicant group and legitimate interest

Producers’ Association for the Protection and Promotion of ‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’ [Consorzio dei Produttori per la Tutela e Valorizzazione del Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana] with its registered office at the Bergamo Chamber of Commerce, Largo Belotti 16 – 24121 Bergamo. Tel. +39 354524880. Fax +39 354524881. Email: formaidemutavbdop@gmail.com. Certified email: formaidemut@pec.it.
The ‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’ Producers’ Association is entitled to submit an amendment application pursuant to Article 13(1) of Decree No 12511 of the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policy of 14 October 2013.
2.   Member state or third country

Italy
3.   Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)







☐


Name of product










☒


Description of product










☐


Geographical area










☒


Proof of origin










☒


Method of production










☒


Link










☒


Labelling










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Other: amendment to the form of the product specification so that it is organised into articles in accordance with the Regulation; addition of information on the inspection body; packaging.




4.   Type of amendment(s)







☐


Amendment to product specification of a registered PDO or PGI not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.










☒


Amendment to product specification of registered PDO or PGI for which a Single Document (or equivalent) has not been published not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.




5.   Amendment(s)


Introduction

The protected designation of origin ‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’ was registered by Regulation (EC) No 1107/96 of 12 June 1996 (PDO) under Article 17 of Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92.
The documents published in the EC in the European geographical indications register consist of a single file containing a historical report, a description of the geographical environment and a brief description of the transformation process, accompanied by maps and supplemented by technical file No 0039 345 81377 of 22 February 1995, which contains the following (unnumbered) paragraphs:






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Description of the product










—


Geographical area










—


History










—


Processing method










—


Link with the geographical environment










—


Inspection body.




The product specification for the controlled designation of origin (denominazione di origine controllata – DOC) was approved by Presidential Decree of 10 September 1985 and published in Official Gazette of the Italian Republic (GURI) No 112 of 16 May 1986, and contains four articles which form the basis for the current inspection plan.
The documents listed above form the basis for the request for amendment.
With this request for amendment, the new specification has been rewritten in accordance with the structure laid down by the Ministry of Agricultural Policy. Specifically:






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Article 1 ‘Name’ and Article 3 ‘Production area’ are maintained.










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Article 2 of the Presidential Decree of 10 September 1985 has been broken up and a new Article 2 ‘Description of the product’ and Article 5 ‘Method of production’ have been created.










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A new Article 4 ‘Proof of origin’ has been added.










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A new Article 6 ‘Link with the geographical environment’ has been added.










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A new Article 7 ‘Inspections’ and Article 8 ‘Labelling’ have been added.





Description of product







—


This amendment is purely clerical and concerns Article 1 of the current specification (Presidential Decree of 10 September 1985).





The current wording:


‘The designation of origin of “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” cheese is hereby recognised and its use is reserved for the product meeting the requirements laid down in this decree as regards the processing methods and the organoleptic and product characteristics deriving from the production area defined in Article 3 below.’


This is to be replaced by:



‘
Article 1 – Name


The designation of origin of “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” cheese is hereby recognised and its use is reserved for the product meeting the requirements laid down in this specification as regards the processing methods and the organoleptic and product characteristics deriving from the production area defined in Article 3 below.’



Reason:

For greater clarity, the existing phrase ‘this Decree’, referring to the Decree of 10 September 1985 published in GURI No 112 of 16 May 1986, should be replaced by the phrase ‘this specification’.






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This amendment concerns Article 2 of the current specification (Presidential Decree of 10 September 1985) and point 3.2 of the single document.





The current wording:

‘The designation of origin “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” is reserved for cheese with the following characteristics: Fatty semi-cooked cheese made exclusively from whole cow’s milk from one or two daily milkings with low natural acidity. The minimum ripening period is 45 days. When ripened for at least 6 months, it is used as a table cheese. It has the following characteristics:






 



Shape: a straight or slightly convex cylinder with flat or semi-flat sides;










 



Dimensions: diameter of sides between 30 cm and 40 cm, height of the heel between 8 cm and 10 cm, with variations in the minimum and maximum values depending on the technical conditions during production;










 



Weight of the wheel: between 8 kg and 12 kg depending on the technical conditions during processing, with variations of up to 10 % in the minimum and maximum values;










 



Outer layer: thin, firm, natural rind, straw yellow in colour, tending towards grey as it ripens;










 



Colour of the paste: ivory, slightly straw-coloured;










 



Texture of the paste: compact, elastic, with scattered eyes from 1 mm in diameter up to a size known as “occhio di pernice” [“partridge eye”];










 



Taste: delicate, fragrant, not very salty, mild, with a characteristic aroma;










 



Fat in dry matter: minimum 45 %.




The characteristics of the cheese vary according to the ripening period, which can extend to over a year.’

This is to be replaced by:



‘
Article 2 – Description of the product


The designation of origin “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” is reserved for cheese that has the following characteristics once the minimum ripening period has passed:






 


Fatty semi-cooked cheese made exclusively from raw whole cow’s milk with low natural acidity;










 



Shape: a straight or slightly convex cylinder with flat or semi-flat sides;










 



Dimensions: diameter of sides between 30 cm and 40 cm, height of the heel between 8 cm and 10 cm, with variations in the minimum and maximum values depending on the technical conditions during production;










 



Weight of the wheel: between 8 kg and 12 kg depending on the technical conditions during processing, with variations of up to 10 % in the minimum and maximum values;










 



Outer appearance: thin, firm, natural rind, straw yellow in colour, becoming more pronounced as ripening progresses;










 



Colour of the paste: ivory, slightly straw-coloured;










 



Texture of the paste: compact, elastic, with scattered eyes from 1 mm in diameter up to a size known as “occhio di pernice” [“partridge eye”]; the presence of small cracks in the paste is permitted;










 



Taste: delicate, fragrant, not very salty, mild, with a characteristic aroma;










 



Fat in dry matter: minimum 42 %.




The minimum ripening period is 45 days. “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” cheese may bear the additional indication “Riserva” if the ripening period is longer than 6 months.’



Reason:







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The requirement to use milk from one or two daily milkings has been removed. With farms in decline, dairies are not always able to sustain daily milk collection. This is a small-scale mountain production, and over the years the dairies have had to organise themselves in order to reduce collection costs, optimising routes and changing the timing of collections, which might no longer occur daily. Of course, farms have the necessary equipment to store milk from more than one milking in the best possible conditions. The Producers’ Association has demonstrated, through the use of pilot dairies, that collection on alternate days does not alter the characteristics of the cheese.










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It is now specified that the characteristics of the cheese refer to the end of the minimum ripening period of 45 days.










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The term ‘outer layer’ has been replaced by ‘external appearance’, which is clearer. The phrase ‘tending towards grey as it ripens’ has been replaced by ‘becoming more pronounced as ripening progresses’, since this is more appropriate.










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We have also added that the presence of small cracks in the paste is permitted. The cracks (or fissures) are due to the use of milk with low natural acidity, which supports the native microflora present in the environment (pasture land, cattle sheds, cheese dairy), with their notable biodiversity. They cause characteristic fermentation which, far from undermining the characteristics and quality of the cheese, in fact enhances them.










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The value for minimum fat content in dry matter has been reduced from 45 % to 42 %. The cows are fed in a traditional manner, which means their food is not always constant throughout the year. At times, especially during the transition from dry to green fodder or vice versa, or in the event of abnormal weather patterns which reduce the nutritional characteristics of the fodder, or when the animals themselves are subject to sudden variations in temperature, this can have an impact on rumen fermentation, which can therefore lead to significant reductions in the fat content of the milk and thus of the cheese. The cheese nonetheless retains the classification of ‘fatty cheese’.










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The sentence ‘When ripened for at least 6 months, it is used as a table cheese’ has been deleted, as it does not reflect current consumer habits. Moreover, the term ‘table cheese’ is generic and not sufficient to describe the characteristics of the product. Instead, to provide greater clarity to consumers, we would like to introduce a provision on the ripening process, which would make it possible to identify cheese ripened for more than 6 months using the term ‘Riserva’. It is deemed more appropriate to differentiate between two ripening classes: between 45 days and 6 months, and longer than 6 months. Indeed, due to its particular production process, ‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’ is well suited to a long ripening process, which gives the cheese more pronounced sensory flavour and aroma characteristics compared with shorter ripening processes. This distinction has been introduced to benefit consumers, who are consequently better placed to choose a product best suited to their personal taste.





Proof of origin







—


A new Article 4 has been introduced, concerning the proof of origin of ‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’ cheese.




The new article reads as follows:


‘
Article 4 – Proof of origin


Producers are entered in special lists managed by the inspection body and are responsible for ensuring, through the records they keep, which may be checked by the inspection body, proof of origin as regards the stages of production of “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” referred to in Articles 3 and 5. The traceability of the product is ensured by entering all participants in the product chain in special lists kept by the inspection body and by declaration of the quantities produced.
All natural and legal persons entered on the relevant lists shall be subject to inspection by the inspection body in accordance with the product specification and the associated inspection plan.
The cheeses produced are identified while the curd is being formed in the mould. During one turn of the cheese, the date of production and the dairy’s EC stamp are imprinted on the heel.’



Method of production







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This amendment concerns Article 2 of the current specification (Presidential Decree of 10 September 1985) and point 3.3 of the single document on the cattle’s feed.





The current wording:


‘The cattle’s feed must consist of green or hay fodder from meadows, pastures, grazing meadows or mixed pastures in the production area. It may be supplemented with a mixture of cereals and, during the winter, with maize or grass silage.’


This is to be replaced by:



‘
Article 5 – Method of production


The cows’ feed must consist of green and/or hay fodder from meadows, pastures or grazing meadows; the majority of the fodder (at least 50 %) must come from the defined geographical area. It may be supplemented with cereals, concentrates and/or protein cattle-cake. The use of mineral and vitamin supplements is authorised.’



Reason:

The origin of the foodstuffs, the majority of which (at least 50 %) must come from the defined geographical area, has been laid down more precisely. The depopulation of the mountains has led to a progressive increase in woodland at the expense of pasture land and grazing meadows. The few lowland areas on the valley floor have also been subject to major urbanisation, leaving only the more inaccessible areas, which are difficult to cultivate and often cannot even be used to graze cattle. This has reduced local fodder resources, forcing some farms to purchase fodder from outside the area. Unfortunately, the recent arrival of non-native wildlife species, such as wild boar, also comes at the expense of the ever smaller remaining pastures, as the damage they cause to the grass cover further reduces the local fodder production available. Moreover, as is well known, woodland is constantly advancing because, due to labour shortages, farmers’ land management efforts are not sufficient to maintain meadows. It was also deemed necessary to remove the option to feed the cows with silage, as its use is a critical issue in the cheese-making and ripening process given that it is a potential vehicle for Clostridium spores. The removal of this option could make it necessary to bring in concentrates from outside the area of origin to replace the nutritional intake provided by silage.
The option to feed the cows with supplements is also proposed. A balanced diet for genetically healthy cows, as well as meeting their nutritional needs, helps to maintain their well-being and health conditions, which has a positive impact on the quality of the milk. A balanced diet results in milk with good fat and protein content and a low somatic cell count, thus improving its cheese-making capacity and making it possible to obtain high-quality cheese.






—


This amendment concerns Article 2 of the current specification (Presidential Decree of 10 September 1985) on the method of production.





The current wording:


‘It is produced throughout the year.
The milk must be coagulated at a temperature of between 35 °C and 37 °C and rennet added in order to produce the curd within 30 minutes. The cheese must be made using traditional methods; during processing, the curd is broken for the first time, then the mixture is half-cooked up to a temperature of 45-47 °C, then taken off the heat and stirred. It must also be suitably pressed using appropriate presses to allow the whey to drain. Suitable moulds, known as “fassere”, are then used.
Salting can involve dry salting or brine salting, and the operation is repeated every other day for 8-12 days.’


This is to be replaced by:


‘“Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” is produced throughout the year.
The milk must be coagulated at a temperature of between 35 °C and 37 °C and bovine rennet added in order to produce the curd within approximately 30 minutes. Natural whey starter or selected yeast may be added.
The cheese must be made using traditional methods; during processing, the curd is broken for the first time, then the mixture is half-cooked up to a temperature of 43-50 °C, then taken off the heat and stirred. Suitable moulds, known as “fassere”, are then used.
It must also be suitably pressed to allow the whey to drain.
Salting can involve dry salting or brine salting.’


Reason:

It has been specified that the type of rennet used must be bovine, as is normally the case, in order to prevent the use of other types of rennet available on the market. As regards the length of time taken for the curds to form, the adverb ‘approximately’ has been added, as the duration of the enzyme action of the rennet could easily be influenced by the natural characteristics of the raw material and the conditions of the environment in which it occurs.
The possibility of using natural whey starter or selected yeast has been introduced. This was not included in the previous version. This addition is due to the fact that the bacterial count of the milk arriving at the dairies has decreased significantly over the years as a result of improvements in health and hygiene conditions on farms, milking conditions and milk storage conditions. A lower bacterial count means that the milk in the cheese vat is less reactive with respect to the need for rapid acidification, which is necessary in order to dehydrate the curd correctly and to hinder the development of microorganisms that are detrimental to the cheese production process. However, the native microflora present in the environment in the cow sheds and dairies are maintained and enhanced in the subsequent processing stages, giving ‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’ cheese its typical characteristics, it being a semi-cooked cheese made from raw milk.
As regards the increase of the temperature range for cooking the curd to between 43 °C and 50 °C, it has been noted that it is sometimes necessary to reduce or increase the temperature in order to improve the cheese-making process, to allow the curd to drain properly and to optimise the subsequent fermentation of the cheese. The need to do this is linked to the differing composition of the flora present in the fodder or the ripeness of the plants it is made up of, as well as the varying insulation capacity of the environment and of the vats in which the cheese is made. The cheesemakers use their experience and skill to decide on the optimal parameters while staying within a range which is acceptable and defined by the specification, but which is less restrictive in light of the physical conditions of the milk and the extreme environmental conditions.
The obligation to use ‘appropriate presses’ has been removed so as to enable artisanal cheesemakers, especially in mountain pastures, to use other manual tools that can perform the same function as presses. Again, the traditional process is not affected by the method used to drain the whey, although this must be done properly to allow the cheese to retain the characteristics laid down in the specification.
Reference to the duration of the salting period has been removed because the previous reference was generic and referred only to dry salting, potentially giving rise to misunderstandings with respect to the brine salting procedure, which cannot technically be carried out every other day for 8-12 days. Moreover, given the difference between the two salting techniques in terms of turning and salt absorption methods, it is impossible to give a specific indication to producers of the method to be used. It is in the interest of each producer to properly salt the product, adopting the best possible method and timing for salting the product, based on their own experience and the characteristics of their production premises, which have an impact on salt absorption, to obtain an ideal outcome. It is therefore open to each producer to choose the type and duration of the salting process to obtain the best possible product.

Link







—


In view of the need to restructure the specification to bring it into line with the new structure approved by the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policy, a new Article 6 of the specification – point 5 of the single document – has been introduced. This Article is based on a summary of the information in the file supporting the registration and in the supplementary file No 0039 34581377 of 4 February 1995, pp. 3 and 4, published in the EC and on the website of the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policy, as well as historical, technical and scientific publications on the Brembana Valley.




The text on the link is set out below:


‘
Article 6 – Link with the geographical environment


Historically speaking, the Upper Brembana Valley [L’Alta Valle Brembana] has been an administrative entity since 1364, with its own statutory systems, which were strengthened and updated during the period of Venetian rule. Specifically, the geographical environment in which “Formai de Mut” originates and is produced is that of the Upper Brembana Valley in Bergamo. It is a well-defined geographical area, surrounded by the ring of mountain peaks from Monte Ortighera and Monte Menna to Pizzo dei Tre Signori and Monte Venturosa, and bordered by the Serina and Seriana valleys to the east, the Valtellina valley to the north and the Taleggio and Valsassina valleys to the west. The altitude ranges from 440 m above sea level in the municipality of Lenna to 2 916 m above sea level at Pizzo del Diavolo di Tenda in the municipality of Carona.
For centuries, the main resources and related activities have been linked to the woodland, the pastures and the mines. The ridge of the Orobic Alps constituting the Upper Brembana Valley consists of peaks and passes that are not easily accessible and a complex system of valleys and slopes with varying altitude profiles and exposures, which have had a major influence on how the population and production systems were established and have stabilised over time.
The Brembana Valley was mainly a valley of herders, and cheese-making, which was the main purpose for rearing cattle in the area, is attested to in a number of historical documents. This tradition is still reflected today in the production of the characteristic local cheese “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana”.
One of the most important traits of the Orobic climate is the exposure to humid air flows from the Mediterranean, which are obstructed by the Alpine range. This characteristic results in levels of rainfall and snowfall that increase gradually from the valley floor to the head of the valley and the slopes. These conditions favour the greening of pastures and thus the rearing of dairy cattle. However, conditions can vary considerably from year to year, as is typical of temperate regions.
Due to the environmental and climate characteristics described above, the mountain area of the Upper Brembana Valley is characterised by valleys, slopes and mountain pastures offering extraordinary geological and plant diversity. Over the centuries, these have been exploited by humans through seasonal mountain grazing, with a vertical transhumance which involves grazing on the pastures during the summer months and a return to valley for the rest of the year when the harsher weather arrives. This tradition is particularly evident in the distinctive and typical colouration of the paste of “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana”, which changes from an ivory colour, when the cattle are fed with hay during the winter season, to a straw colour when the cattle are fed with green grass during the summer.
The meadows of the Brembana Valley contain numerous plant species, the composition of which varies according to location, environmental conditions, altitude and water resources.
The Bergamasque Alpine flora is among the richest and most interesting in the Alps; it is made up of a significant group of species as regards both quantity and quality, with numerous endemic species standing out in terms of importance and reputation. The reason for the invaluable nature of Bergamasque flora can be found in the historical and geological events that have occurred in this area. Glacial advance and retreat has had a profound influence on the area’s floral make-up. The Orobic Alps, in particular the Bergamasque Prealps, have acted as a refuge for many Alpine species, preserving ancient species (paleoendemites) while encouraging the formation of new species (neoendemites) due to geographical isolation.
The environmental conditions have given and continue to give the cattle specialised capacity for milk production.
Each mountain pasture, meaning a grazing area above the upper edge of the forest, is often divided into several “stations”, pasture areas with the necessary facilities to support cattle and humans. At each station, the animals are expertly transported along the pastures according to the availability and quality of the fodder and the water resources needed to water the animals. It is precisely the experience of the alpine herders, acquired and passed on from generation to generation, that determines the movement of the herd and the method of grazing (which varies according to the daily weather conditions and the quality, the degree of ripeness and the attractiveness of the various grazing areas) in order to make the best possible use of the fodder resources available and thus obtain the best cheese.
The herders are housed in buildings called “baite”, where the milk is also processed. The cheesemakers rely on their experience and skill when choosing the optimal time and temperature parameters to be used during cheese-making, while staying within traditional ranges. The appropriate values take into account the insulation of the production premises, the area where the cows have grazed and sometimes also the particular chemical and physical characteristics of the milk, which are themselves determined by extreme environmental conditions (sharp drop in temperature, hail storms and/or snowfall).
Once all the grass at a station has been eaten, the animals move on to the next one in search of new pasture, sometimes reaching altitudes above 2 000 metres.
The cheese produced is left to ripen in the cheese storehouse, or “casera”. There is often only one casera for the entirety of the alpine pastures, placed in the most favourable location logistically speaking. Each casera is built and managed so as to ensure ideal temperature and humidity conditions for achieving a good product. Depending on the interplay between temperature and humidity, each cheesemaker sets the timing and turning and brushing methods in order for the cheese to ripen properly and the typical characteristics of “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” to be achieved. At the end of the mountain grazing period, the cheese produced in the mountain pastures is brought down to the valley to complete its ripening, which can last for several years. The herd also returns to the place of departure, where it is met by the final regrowth of the grazing meadows, as well as hay provided on the holdings during the winter period.
Nowadays, mountain grazing and the resulting production in mountain pastures are carried out in the mountain cottages indicated in the Regional Plan for Mountain Pastures between May and October, depending on environmental and climate conditions. The rest of production, which can take place from 1 January to 31 December, is done on the valley floor, but always within the mountain area.
Originally, the practice of transhumance was widespread, whereby some herders transferred their animals to the Milanese lowlands during winter, returning to the mountain pastures in summer. The herders in this area were known as “bergamì”, while their herd was known as a “bergamina”. These terms are still in use today as part of the local lexicon. Haymaking was a secondary activity which was required for the purpose of rearing animals. The meadows, which were fertilised with manure, were mowed twice during the summer season.
The “bergamini” of yesteryear were replaced by valley herders, who leased the pastures in their area and stocked them with their own or rented cattle. This gave rise to predominantly “local” transhumance, characterised by the movement of herds from the valley floor to the mountain pastures. As a result, the grazing meadows on the valley floor, while free of cattle, provide the stocks of hay for the winter season.
The combination of the factors linked to the specific biodiversity of the restricted geographical area and the traditional breeding techniques determines the specific nature of the milk, which is enhanced by the use of raw milk to make the cheese. This means that all the nutritional, sensory and microbiological properties of the area of origin remain intact in “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana”. Particularly during the cheese’s ripening stage, the native microflora in the raw milk used to make the cheese and in the production environment influences the ripening of the cheese and establishes its distinctive flavour.
Furthermore, “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” is made using whole milk. Almost all of the milk’s original fat content, and with it the liposoluble aromatic molecules specific to many local essences, are concentrated in the cheese. This results in a notable transfer of aromas and scents from the production environment to the product, further characterising it.’



Labelling







—


This amendment concerns Article 4 of the current specification (Presidential Decree of 10 September 1985) and point 3.6 of the single document.





The current wording:


‘“Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” cheeses must bear the relevant markings, or other specific markings giving the designation of origin of the cheese and the details of the following decree.’


This is to be replaced by:



‘
Article 8 – Labelling


The conformity mark constitutes a paper label affixed to one of the two flat sides of the cheese once it has ripened for at least 45 days, bearing a red mark (CMYK: C = 0, M = 95, Y = 85, K = 0 – image 1) for products made on the valley floor from 1 January to 31 December and a blue mark (CMYK: C = 98, M = 72, Y = 12, K = 0 – image 2) for products made on the mountain pastures between 20 May and 20 October. In terms of design, in the centre there is a stylised drawing of a bell, which in turn has at its centre a wheel of cheese with a detached wedge. Around the edge of the bell is written part of the name of the designation of origin, “Formai de Mut D.O.P.”, while along the inside edge of the circle containing the bell design the rest of the name can be found, “dell’Alta Valle Brembana”, along with the legal reference to the registration, “Reg. C.E. 1107/96”. Around the entire outside circumference there are 22 stylised bells enclosed by a further circle. For the blue mark, the circle inside the 22 bells is replaced by the repeated words “d’alpeggio” [from the mountain pastures] (image 2).
For “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” which has been ripened for more than 6 months, the mark has the same characteristics as described above, but with the word “Riserva” repeated around the circle inside the 22 bells (images 3 and 4).





Image 1





Image 2





Image 3





Image 4
Food glue may be used to affix the mark.
When placed on the market for consumption, each wrapper and/or piece of packaging of “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” PDO must bear the designation “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” PDO and the marks described above with the information required by law. In the event of specific printing needs, the marks may also be displayed in black and white or contrast.’



Reason:

The labelling methods are described in greater detail.

Other


Inspections







—


In view of the need to restructure the specification to bring it into line with the new provisions approved by the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policy, an article on inspections has been added, containing the name and contact details of the control body.




The following text has been added:


‘
Article 7 – Inspections


Inspections on whether the product conforms to the specification are carried out in accordance with Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 by the inspection body Certiprodop S.r.l. – registered office: Via del Macello 26, Crema; administrative offices: Via del Commercio 29 – 26013 Crema (Cremona); telephone and Fax +39 373229628; Email: info@certiprodop.it.’



Packaging







—


In view of the need to restructure the specification to bring it into line with the new provisions approved by the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policy, an addition has been made to point 3.5 of the single document and Article 8 of the specification, concerning means of release for consumption.




The newly added text reads as follows:

‘“Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” PDO cheese may be released for consumption as whole cheeses or in portions. Portioning and packaging may be carried out outside the area of origin.’

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’


EU No: PDO-IT-0009-AM01 – 6.7.2021


PDO (X) PGI ( )

1.   Name(s) [of PDO or PGI]

‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’
2.   Member State or Third Country

Italy
3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product [listed in Annex XI]

Class 1.3 – Cheeses
3.2.   Description of product to which the name in (1) applies

The designation of origin ‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’ is reserved for cheese that has the following characteristics once the minimum ripening period has passed:






 


Fatty semi-cooked cheese made exclusively from raw whole cow’s milk with low natural acidity.










 



Shape: a straight or slightly convex cylinder with flat or semi-flat sides;










 



Dimensions: diameter of sides between 30 cm and 40 cm, height of the heel between 8 cm and 10 cm, with variations in the minimum and maximum values depending on the technical conditions during production;










 



Weight of the wheel: between 8 kg and 12 kg depending on the technical conditions during processing, with variations of up to 10 % in the minimum and maximum values;










 


Outer appearance: thin, firm, natural rind, straw yellow in colour, becoming more pronounced as ripening progresses;










 



Colour of the paste: ivory, slightly straw-coloured;










 



Texture of the paste: compact, elastic, with scattered eyes from 1 mm in diameter up to a size known as ‘occhio di pernice’ [‘partridge eye’]; the presence of small cracks in the paste is permitted;










 



Taste: delicate, fragrant, not very salty, mild, with a characteristic aroma;










 



Fat in dry matter: minimum 42 %.




The minimum ripening period is 45 days. ‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’ cheese may bear the additional indication ‘Riserva’ if the ripening period is longer than 6 months.
3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The cows’ feed must consist of green and/or hay fodder from meadows, pastures or grazing meadows; the majority of the fodder (at least 50 %) must come from the defined geographical area. It may be supplemented with cereals, concentrates and/or protein cattle-cake. The use of mineral and vitamin supplements is authorised.
The 50 % quota is justified as follows. The depopulation of the mountains has led to a progressive increase in woodland at the expense of pasture land and grazing meadows. The few lowland areas on the valley floor have also been subject to major urbanisation, leaving only the more inaccessible areas, which are difficult to cultivate and often not even usable for grazing cattle. This has reduced local fodder resources, forcing some farms to purchase fodder from outside the area. Unfortunately, the recent arrival of non-native wildlife species, such as wild boar, also comes at the expense of the ever smaller remaining pastures, as the damage they cause to the grass cover further reduces the local fodder production available. Moreover, as is well known, woodland is constantly advancing because, due to labour shortages, farmers’ land management efforts are not sufficient to maintain meadows. It was also deemed necessary to remove the option to feed the cows with silage, as its use is a critical issue in the cheese-making and ripening process given that it is a potential vehicle for Clostridium spores. The removal of this option could make it necessary to bring in concentrates from outside the area of origin to replace the nutritional intake provided by silage.
3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

Holdings rearing the cattle whose milk is used to produce ‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’ must be located within the defined geographical area.
The milk must be produced and the cheese processed and ripened within the defined geographical area.
3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’ PDO cheese may be released for consumption as whole cheeses or in portions. Portioning and packaging may be carried out outside the area of origin.
3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

The conformity mark constitutes a paper label affixed to one of the two flat sides of the cheese once it has ripened for at least 45 days, bearing a red mark (CMYK: C = 0, M = 95, Y = 85, K = 0 – image 1) for products made on the valley floor from 1 January to 31 December and a blue mark (CMYK: C = 98, M = 72, Y = 12, K = 0 – image 2) for products made on the mountain pastures between 20 May and 20 October. In terms of design, in the centre there is a stylised drawing of a bell, which in turn has at its centre a wheel of cheese with a detached wedge. Around the edge of the bell is written part of the name of the designation of origin, ‘Formai de Mut D.O.P.’, while along the inside edge of the circle containing the bell design the rest of the name can be found, ‘dell’Alta Valle Brembana’, along with the legal reference to the registration, ‘Reg. C.E. 1107/96’. Around the entire outside circumference there are 22 stylised bells enclosed by a further circle. For the blue mark, the circle inside the 22 bells is replaced by the repeated words ‘d’alpeggio’ [from the mountain pastures] (image 2).
For ‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’ which has been ripened for more than 6 months, the mark has the same characteristics as described above, but with the word ‘Riserva’ repeated around the circle inside the 22 bells (images 3 and 4).





Image 1





Image 2





Image 3





Image 4
Food glue may be used to affix the mark.
When placed on the market for consumption, each wrapper and/or piece of packaging of ‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’ PDO must bear the designation ‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’ PDO and the marks described above with the information required by law. In the event of specific printing needs, the marks may also be displayed in black and white or contrast.
4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

The area in which the cheese referred to above is produced and ripened comprises the entire administrative territory of the municipalities listed below, all of which belong to the province of Bergamo: Averara, Branzi, Camerata Cornello, Carona, Cassiglio, Cusio, Foppolo, Isola di Fondra, Lenna, Mezzoldo, Moio de’ Calvi, Olmo al Brembo, Ornica, Piazza Brembana, Piazzatorre, Piazzolo, Roncobello, Santa Brigida, Valleve, Valnegra and Valtorta.
5.   Link with the geographical area

Historically speaking, the Upper Brembana Valley [L’Alta Valle Brembana] has been an administrative entity since 1364, with its own statutory systems, which were strengthened and updated during the period of Venetian rule. Specifically, the geographical environment in which ‘Formai de Mut’ originates and is produced is that of the Upper Brembana Valley in Bergamo. It is a well-defined geographical area, surrounded by the ring of mountain peaks from Monte Ortighera and Monte Menna to Pizzo dei Tre Signori and Monte Venturosa, and bordered by the Serina and Seriana valleys to the east, the Valtellina valley to the north and the Taleggio and Valsassina valleys to the west. The altitude ranges from 440 m above sea level in the municipality of Lenna to 2 916 m above sea level at Pizzo del Diavolo di Tenda in the municipality of Carona.
For centuries, the main resources and related activities have been linked to the woodland, the pastures and the mines. The ridge of the Orobic Alps constituting the Upper Brembana Valley consists of peaks and passes that are not easily accessible and a complex system of valleys and slopes with varying altitude profiles and exposures, which have had a major influence on how the population and production systems were established and have stabilised over time.
The Brembana Valley was mainly a valley of herders, and cheese-making, which was the main purpose for rearing cattle in the area, is attested to in a number of historical documents. This tradition is still reflected today in the production of the characteristic local cheese ‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’.
One of the most important traits of the Orobic climate is the exposure to humid air flows from the Mediterranean, which are obstructed by the Alpine range. This characteristic results in levels of rainfall and snowfall that increase gradually from the valley floor to the head of the valley and the slopes. These conditions favour the greening of pastures and thus the rearing of dairy cattle. However, conditions can vary considerably from year to year, as is typical of temperate regions.
Due to the environmental and climate characteristics described above, the mountain area of the Upper Brembana Valley is characterised by valleys, slopes and mountain pastures offering extraordinary geological and plant diversity. Over the centuries, these have been exploited by humans through seasonal mountain grazing, with a vertical transhumance which involves grazing on the pastures during the summer months and a return to valley for the rest of the year when the harsher weather arrives. This tradition is particularly evident in the distinctive and typical colouration of the paste of ‘Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana’, which changes from an ivory colour, when the cattle are fed with hay during the winter season, to a straw colour when the cattle are fed with green grass during the summer.
The meadows of the Brembana Valley contain numerous plant species, the composition of which varies according to location, environmental conditions, altitude and water resources.
The Bergamasque Alpine flora is among the richest and most interesting in the Alps; it is made up of a significant group of species as regards both quantity and quality, with numerous endemic species standing out in terms of importance and reputation. The reason for the invaluable nature of Bergamasque flora can be found in the historical and geological events that have occurred in this area. Glacial advance and retreat has had a profound influence on the area’s floral make-up. The Orobic Alps, in particular the Bergamasque Prealps, have acted as a refuge for many Alpine species, preserving ancient species (paleoendemites) while encouraging the formation of new species (neoendemites) due to geographical isolation.
The environmental conditions have given and continue to give the cattle specialised capacity for milk production.
Each mountain pasture, meaning a grazing area above the upper edge of the forest, is often divided into several ‘stations’, pasture areas with the necessary facilities to support cattle and humans. At each station, the animals are expertly transported along the pastures according to the availability and quality of the fodder and the water resources needed to water the animals. It is precisely the experience of the alpine herders, acquired and passed on from generation to generation, that determines the movement of the herd and the method of grazing (which varies according to the daily weather conditions and the quality, the degree of ripeness and the attractiveness of the various grazing areas) in order to make the best possible use of the fodder resources available and thus obtain the best cheese.
The herders are housed in buildings called “baite”, where the milk is also processed. The cheesemakers rely on their experience and skill when choosing the optimal time and temperature parameters to be used during cheese-making, while staying within traditional ranges. The appropriate values take into account the insulation of the production premises, the area where the cows have grazed and sometimes also the particular chemical and physical characteristics of the milk, which are themselves determined by extreme environmental conditions (sharp drop in temperature, hail storms and/or snowfall).
Once all the grass at a station has been eaten, the animals move on to the next one in search of new pasture, sometimes reaching altitudes above 2 000 metres.
The cheese produced is left to ripen in the cheese storehouse, or “casera”. There is often only one casera for the entirety of the alpine pastures, placed in the most favourable location logistically speaking. Each casera is built and managed so as to ensure ideal temperature and humidity conditions for achieving a good product. Depending on the interplay between temperature and humidity, each cheesemaker sets the timing and turning and brushing methods in order for the cheese to ripen properly and the typical characteristics of “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” to be achieved. At the end of the mountain grazing period, the cheese produced in the mountain pastures is brought down to the valley to complete its ripening, which can last for several years. The herd also returns to the place of departure, where it is met by the final regrowth of the grazing meadows, as well as hay provided on the holdings during the winter period.
Nowadays, mountain grazing and the resulting production in mountain pastures are carried out in the mountain cottages indicated in the Regional Plan for Mountain Pastures between May and October, depending on environmental and climate conditions. The rest of production, which can take place from 1 January to 31 December, is done on the valley floor, but always within the mountain area.
Originally, the practice of transhumance was widespread, whereby some herders transferred their animals to the Milanese lowlands during winter, returning to the mountain pastures in summer. The herders in this area were known as “bergamì”, while their herd was known as a “bergamina”. These terms are still in use today as part of the local lexicon. Haymaking was a secondary activity which was required for the purpose of rearing animals. The meadows, which were fertilised with manure, were mowed twice during the summer season.
The “bergamini” of yesteryear were replaced by valley herders, who leased the pastures in their area and stocked them with their own or rented cattle. This gave rise to predominantly “local” transhumance, characterised by the movement of herds from the valley floor to the mountain pastures. As a result, the grazing meadows on the valley floor, while free of cattle, provide the stocks of hay for the winter season.
The combination of the factors linked to the specific biodiversity of the restricted geographical area and the traditional breeding techniques determines the specific nature of the milk, which is enhanced by the use of raw milk to make the cheese. This means that all the nutritional, sensory and microbiological properties of the area of origin remain intact in “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana”. Particularly during the cheese’s ripening stage, the native microflora in the raw milk used to make the cheese and in the production environment influences the ripening of the cheese and establishes its distinctive flavour.
Furthermore, “Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana” is made using whole milk. Almost all of the milk’s original fat content, and with it the liposoluble aromatic molecules specific to many local essences, are concentrated in the cheese. This results in a notable transfer of aromas and scents from the production environment to the product, further characterising it.’

Reference to publication of the product specification

The full text of the product specification is available on the following website: http://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/3335
or alternatively:
by going directly to the home page of the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policy (www.politicheagricole.it) and clicking on ‘Qualità’ (at the top right of the screen), then on ‘Prodotti DOP IGP STG’ (on the left-hand side of the screen) and finally on ‘Disciplinari di Produzione all’esame dell’UE’.


(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.