Publication of an application for a Union amendment to a product specification for a name in the wine sector pursuant to Article 97(3) of Regulation (EU) No 1308/2013 of the European Parliament and of the Council 2022/C 295/05
Date: 2022-08-02
Institutions: Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development, European Commission
Subjects: Italy, Veneto, consumer information, designation of origin, labelling, product designation, quality control of agricultural products, sparkling wine, white wine, wine of superior quality








C_2022295EN.01000501.xml










2.8.2022   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 295/5






Publication of an application for a Union amendment to a product specification for a name in the wine sector pursuant to Article 97(3) of Regulation (EU) No 1308/2013 of the European Parliament and of the Council
(2022/C 295/05)
This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 98 of Regulation (EU) No 1308/2013 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within two months from the date of this publication.
APPLICATION FOR A UNION AMENDMENT TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION

‘BIANCO DI CUSTOZA/CUSTOZA’


PDO-IT-A0468-AM03


Date of application: 9.7.2019

1.   Applicant and legitimate interest

Consorzio Tutela Vino Custoza DOC [‘Custoza’ DOC Wine Protection Association]
Protection association – party with a legitimate interest in submitting this application
2.   Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)







☒


Name of product










☐


Category of the grapevine product










☐


Link










☒


Marketing restrictions




3.   Description and reasons for amendment

3.1.   Modification of the name of the protected designation of origin from ‘Bianco di Custoza’ / ‘Custoza’ to ‘Custoza’

Modification of the name of the protected designation of origin from ‘Bianco di Custoza’ / ‘Custoza’ to ‘Custoza’.
For over 10 years the product specification has allowed wines to be known as ‘Custoza’ as well as the traditional name ‘Bianco di Custoza’. ‘Custoza’ has now become the only name used by winemakers and recognised by consumers, so there is no longer any reason for continuing to have the dual designation.
This amendment involves changing the name in points 1.1 (Name(s)), 1.4 (Description of the wine(s)), 1.5.2. (Maximum yields), 1.6 (Demarcated geographical area), 1.8 (Link with the geographical area) and 1.9 (Further conditions) of the single document.
3.2.   Addition of a bottling area restriction







(a)


A requirement for bottling (and the grape-drying process for making Passito wine only) to take place within the production area as delimited in Article 3 has been introduced, although the pre-existing rights of those producers who have traditionally bottled wine outside the defined production area are preserved.
Applying to limit the bottling of ‘Custoza’ PDO to the production area – a requirement applied by other renowned wine names – also constitutes a major step forward in enhancing the quality suggested by the name, which aims to position ‘Custoza’ as one of the most important historical names.
The distinctive features and qualities that the area of origin confers on ‘Custoza’ PDO wines are better protected by bottling the wine within the production area, as it means that all the technical rules on transport and bottling are applied and enforced under the responsibility and with the professional competence of the winemakers of that same demarcated area.
This obligation avoids the possible risks of transport outside the wine area, such as: oxidation and thermic stress due to high or low temperatures and deterioration of the product, adversely affecting its chemical/physical characteristics (acidity, polyphenols and substances conferring colour) and organoleptic characteristics (colour, aroma, taste), and its stability. The risk of microbiological contamination (from bacteria, viruses, fungi, mould or yeasts) is also reduced. This requirement benefits the operators, who are aware of the risks and responsible for preserving the quality of the PDO, and gives consumers assurance regarding the origin and quality of the wines and their conformity with the product specification. Furthermore, checks by the competent bodies are more effective in a smaller area.
The exception to this rule for operators who traditionally bottled ‘Custoza’ wines is justified by the fact that those operators have demonstrated their competence and knowledge of the designation, thereby helping to guarantee the quality required for this wine.










(b)


It has been established and confirmed that the area for making the spumante type (sparkling wine), including the secondary fermentation and bottling, must take place within the production area plus the provinces of Brescia, Mantua, Trento, Treviso and Vicenza.
In accordance with the same principles of protection and competence set out in the previous paragraph, in order to safeguard traditional operators, the production area for sparkling wines remains unchanged.
This amendment affects point 1.9 of the single document and Article 5 of the product specification.




SINGLE DOCUMENT
1.   Name of product

Custoza
2.   Geographical indication type

PDO - Protected Designation of Origin
3.   Categories of grapevine products







1.


Wine










5.


Quality sparkling wine










15.


Wine from raisined grapes




4.   Description of the wine(s)


‘Custoza’, category 1: Wine







 


Colour: straw-yellow, sometimes with pale green tints;










 


bouquet: fruity, distinctive, slightly aromatic;










 


taste: flavourful, delicate, with just the right amount of body.










 


minimum total alcoholic strength by volume: 11 %;










 


minimum sugar-free extract: 17 g/l;










 


reducing sugar residues: maximum 7 g/l.




Any analytical parameters not shown in the table below comply with the limits laid down in national and EU legislation.






General analytical characteristics




Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume)


 




Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume)


 




Minimum total acidity


4,5 in grams per litre expressed as tartaric




Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre)


 




Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre)


 





‘Custoza’ Riserva, Category 1: Wine







 


Colour: straw yellow to golden of varying intensity;










 


bouquet: intense, distinctive and slightly aromatic;










 


taste: balanced, flavourful, with just the right amount of body;










 


minimum total alcoholic strength by volume: 12,5 %;










 


minimum sugar-free extract: 20 g/l;










 


reducing sugar residues: maximum 7 g/l.




Any analytical parameters not shown in the table below comply with the limits laid down in national and EU legislation.






General analytical characteristics




Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume)


 




Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume)


 




Minimum total acidity


4,5 in grams per litre expressed as tartaric




Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre)


 




Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre)


 





‘Custoza’ superior, Category 1: Wine







 


Colour: straw yellow to golden with ageing;










 


bouquet: pleasant, distinctive, slightly aromatic;










 


taste: balanced, full-bodied;










 


minimum total alcoholic strength by volume: 12,50 %;










 


minimum sugar-free extract: 20 g/l;










 


reducing sugar residues: maximum 7 g/l.




Any analytical parameters not shown in the table below comply with the limits laid down in national and EU legislation.






General analytical characteristics




Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume)


 




Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume)


 




Minimum total acidity


4,5 in grams per litre expressed as tartaric




Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre)


 




Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre)


 





‘Custoza’, Category 5: quality sparkling wine







 


Foam: fine, long-lasting;










 


Colour: straw yellow of varying intensity, possibly with flashes of gold;










 


bouquet: fragrant, fruity, and slightly aromatic when made using the Charmat method; fine, elegant and distinctive if fermented in the bottle;










 


taste: fresh, flavourful, fine and harmonious; zero dosage to demi-sec;










 


minimum total alcoholic strength by volume: 11,5 %;










 


minimum sugar-free extract: 15 g/l.




Any analytical parameters not shown in the table below comply with the limits laid down in national and EU legislation.






General analytical characteristics




Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume)


 




Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume)


 




Minimum total acidity


5,0 in grams per litre expressed as tartaric




Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre)


 




Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre)


 





‘Custoza’ passito (wine from raisined grapes), Category 15







 


Colour: golden yellow;










 


bouquet: intense and fruity;










 


taste: from pleasant to sweet, balanced, with a slightly aromatic body;










 


minimum total alcoholic strength by volume: 15 %;










 


minimum sugar-free extract: 22 g/l.




Any analytical parameters not shown in the table below comply with the limits laid down in national and EU legislation.






General analytical characteristics




Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume)


 




Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume)


12,00




Minimum total acidity


4,5 in grams per litre expressed as tartaric




Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre)


 




Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre)


 




5.   Wine making practices

a.   Specific oenological practices

-
b.   Maximum yields









1.


‘Custoza’
13 000 kg of grapes per hectare












2.


‘Custoza’superiore

12 000 kg of grapes per hectare












3.


‘Custoza’riserva

13 000 kg of grapes per hectare












4.


‘Custoza’ quality sparkling wine
13 000 kg of grapes per hectare












5.


‘Custoza’ passito (wine from raisined grapes category)
5 000 kg of grapes per hectare.




6.   Demarcated geographical area

‘Custoza’ DOC wines are produced in an area spanning all or part of the following municipalities: Sommacampagna, Villafranca di Verona, Valeggio sul Mincio, Peschiera del Garda, Lazise, Castelnuovo del Garda, Pastrengo, Bussolengo and Sona. The area is demarcated as follows: starting south of Sommacampagna, from the district of Cesure (altitude 89 m), the boundary runs southwest along the irrigation channel of the Alto Agro Veronese drainage and land improvement board as far as Boscone, joining the road to Villafranca for a short stretch before merging onto the municipal road which passes through Pozzomoretto and Colombara. The boundary then joins the next municipal road near Cà Delia, following this road past C. Nuova Pigno and Le Grattarole as far as the junction with the Villafranca-Valeggio provincial road, which it then joins as far as the town of Valeggio sul Mincio. It then runs south along the municipal road towards Pozzolo as far as C. Buse, where it merges onto the road that crosses the Seriola Prevaldesca irrigation channel, which it follows northwards as far as the bridge known as the Ponte Lungo. After crossing this bridge, the boundary follows the Seriosa Serenelli irrigation channel southbound as far as the border with the Province of Mantua and Region of Lombardy (altitude 63 m). The boundary line then returns northbound along the regional border, passing through Pignolada, Staffalonero, Prandina, Stazione di Salionze, Villa, Dolci and Pontata, then turns away from the border to follow the Broglie-Madonna del Frassino road for a very brief stretch towards the north-east as far as the point near Pignolini where it crosses the Serenissima motorway. It then follows the track that passes to the east of Cà Gozzetto, goes through Cà Serraglio, passes to the west of altitude point 101 m, and ends at Cà Berra Nuova (altitude 91 m) on the shores of Lake Frassino. The boundary then runs along the shore of the lake for a short stretch, merging onto the track that passes through Bertoletta, and arrives at the railway way hut at altitude 84 m. It then follows the railway to the east up to the next way hut at altitude 84 m before turning off onto the road that passes Villa Montresor and continues up to Cappuccini on the shore of Lake Garda. From Cappuccini the boundary line follows the eastern shore of Lake Garda before turning inland then near the port of Pacengo, following the track past the 93 m and 107 m altitude points and below Pacengo to Cà Allegri. It then follows the Pacengo municipal road as far as C. Fontana Fredda, before climbing another track, passing altitude 122 m, as far as Le Tende. From there it takes the Pacengo-Colà road as far as C. alle Croci before descending south-east following the track past altitude points 118 m and 113 m and through Sarnighe, meeting the boundary between the municipalities of Lazise and Castelnuovo at altitude 112 m. The line then climbs again, heading north along that municipal boundary before merging onto the border between the municipalities of Lazise and Pastrengo near Mirandola. It follows that border until it crosses the Verona-Lago provincial road to the west of Osteria Vecchia, joining that road towards Verona (East) until it reaches the point near Bussolengo where it merges with the Cristo municipal road near altitude 130 m. It then continues along the Palazzolo municipal road as far as the point where the Brenner motorway intersects the Bussolengo-Sona municipal boundary. The line then follows that municipal boundary southbound as far as Civel, where it merges onto the Bussolengo-Sommacampagna provincial road, which it follows until, having crossed Sommacampagna, it meets the road towards Custoza, which it follows as far as the starting point at Cesure. West of Broglie, the area also includes a small territory in the municipality of Peschiera del Garda, including the area of Monte Zecchino, and delimited as follows: from the track to the south of Broglie (next to the old primary school), the boundary line runs west towards Cà Boschetti and Cà Rondinelli then follows the provincial and regional border past Cà Boffei, Soregone, Cà Nuova Bazzoli. It then follows the road towards Broglie until it crosses the track where the line began.
7.   Wine grape variety(ies)

Chardonnay B.
Cortese B. - Bianca Fernanda
Garganega B. - Garganego
Garganega B. - Grecanico dorato B.
Malvasia bianca B. - Iuvarella
Malvasia bianca B. - Malvasia
Malvasia bianca B. - Verdina
Manzoni bianco B. - Incrocio Manzoni 6.0.13 B [Manzoni hybrid]
Pinot bianco B.
Pinot bianco B. - Pinot
Pinot bianco B. - Pinot blanc
Riesling italico B. - Riesling [Italian Riesling]
Riesling renano B. - Riesling [Weisser Riesling]
Tocai friulano B.
Tocai friulano B. - Tuchì
Trebbiano toscano B. - Biancame B.
Trebbiano toscano B. - Procanico
Trebbiano toscano B. - Trebbiano
Trebbiano toscano B. - Ugni blanc.
8.   Description of the link(s)


Specific features of the geographical area

Natural factors
‘Custoza’ wines are produced in a relatively small area occupying much of the southern part of the moraine hills that lie between the outskirts of Verona and Lake Garda.
The production area is bordered to the south-west by the river Mincio.
The area spans both parts of the eastern moraine amphitheatre inland from Lake Garda and the closely related fluvio-glacial plains, which are composed of similar materials albeit not strictly from the same origins. This morainic composition, rich in minerals and microelements, is conducive to good yields and a balanced organoleptic composition of the grapes.
In more detail, the moraine landscape that characterises the ‘Custoza’ DOC production area is shaped by a dense set of elongated hills placed in concentric formation. These do not tend to be steep, with rises and drops of between 50 and 100 metres. As these hills were formed by the deposits left by the same glaciers that formed the nearby Lake Garda, they feature a very varied soil structure, interspersed with broad gravelly plains.
The small size and considerable uniformity of the ‘Custoza’ DOC production area means that climate conditions are essentially the same throughout. The area features hot, but not suffocating, summers and relatively cold winters that are alleviated by its proximity to Lake Garda, creating a microclimate that is not only favourable for vines but also for the olive trees and cypresses that are a distinguishing feature of the local surroundings.
Rainfall is spread fairly evenly over the year.
The way the hills are arranged means that the slopes are heated in the daytime and cool air can accumulate at night, creating optimal conditions for the development of the aromatic characteristics of white grapes. Fresh winds in summer stimulate good vine growth.
The temperature variations between day and night, particularly during the final phase of ripening of the grapes, help preserve their acidic and flavoursome substances.
There is therefore relatively little variation in terms of surroundings and climate within the production area of ‘Custoza’ DOC wines.
Historical and human factors
‘Custoza’ wine evolved in an area of historical and documented wine-growing.
The first record of vines being domesticated in what is now the production area of ‘Custoza’ DOC is the discovery of grape pips (Vitis sylvestris) dating back to the times of stilt-house settlements in the Pacengo and Peschiera area. There is evidence of vine cultivation as early as Roman times (among the archaeological finds in the area are objects indicating that wine was used in religious rites and items used for preserving and transporting wine), and there is abundant documentation on the cultivation of vines in the area – between Pastrengo and Sommacampagna in particular – from the 9th century onwards and throughout the Middle Ages.
By the second half of the 19th century, the local wine was beginning to be specifically known by the name ‘Custoza’, the name of a village in Sommacampagna municipality famous for two battles fought during the Italian wars of unification. The Sona-Custoza area was also listed as one of the best wine-growing areas of the western part of the province of Verona in a study conducted by the Conegliano Viticulture and Wine Experimentation Centre in 1939.
‘Bianco di Custoza’ DOC was officially created by a Presidential Decree issued on 8 February 1971, and was among the first white wines to gain recognition as a designation of origin in Italy. The new shortened name ‘Custoza’ was approved in 2005.
The ‘Custoza’ Protection Association was set up in 1972.
The vine cultivation system most commonly used in the ‘Custoza’ DOC production area was, for a long time throughout its history, the trellis system. In ancient times grapes were not grown in dedicated vineyards but alongside other crops, which were, moreover, limited by the hilly terrain.
In the 1980s, radical changes began to take place in the ‘Custoza’ production area, affecting both the vine-growing method and agronomy practices, allowing winemakers to best exploit the specific features of the native vine varieties: Garganega, Tocai Friulano (known locally as ‘Trebbianello’) and Bianca Fernanda (a local clone of Cortese). Thanks to progressive improvements in technology and experience gained over time, wine-growers are now able to identify and apply the most suitable types of training and processes for growing high-quality grapes and to pinpoint the ideal moment for harvesting them, bringing out the specific qualities conferred on the grapes by the interaction between variety, hill soils and microclimate.
It is, however, when the grapes are made into wine, when the particular aromatic notes of each variety cultivated are extracted from the grapes, that the local producers’ know-how really comes into play. Through it, the ‘Custoza’ grape blend brings out the delicate, floral and fruity bouquet of Garganega, the characteristic colour of Tocai Friulano and the slightly aromatic hints of Bianca Fernanda, as well as the distinguishing features of the other white grapes grown in the area. All of these factors combined mean that a ‘Custoza’ wine is characterised by its strong local connotations and easily recognised by its colour shades, freshness and inherent drinkability.
Veronese wine tradition also includes the production of Passito and sparkling wines, albeit only in small quantities. The traditional leaving of grapes to raisin on the vine or in drying areas has ancient traditions throughout the whole Lake Garda area, while the practice of making sparkling wine was introduced more recently in the middle of the last century.
The list of varieties of that may be used for ‘Custoza’ quality sparkling wine makes it possible to optimise harvesting times from earlier varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco to later varieties such as Garganega and Trebbiano, allowing the composition of very varied and complex cuvées. The sparkling wine may be made either in autoclaves using the Charmat method or in bottles using the classic method.
The ‘Custoza’ passito wine is made by selecting either perfectly intact bunches in the field or a selection of the sparsest bunches and placing them into crates or onto a mat before being put into well-aerated drying areas to ensure ideal conservation.
The average raisining period lasts from 3 to 4 months, at the end of which the grapes have lost around half their weight before undergoing crushing and winemaking.
Specific characteristics of the product
The essential characteristics of ‘Custoza’ wines are – and always have been – their freshness, slightly aromatic nature, and the fact that they are drinkable wines that are easily paired. However, when particular specific selections are made at vineyards, these wines are also well-suited to ageing.
‘Custoza’ is made from a blend of three main varieties, namely Garganega, Tocai Friulano (known locally as ‘Trebbianello’) and Bianca Fernanda, to which other varieties grown in the area may be added. This gives it its typical and highly aromatic complexity which distinguishes it from the varietal wines from the area. The sensory profile that emerges features fruity and floral notes, sometimes accompanied by hints of herbs and spices. In short, the blending of the basic varieties gives the ‘Custoza’ wine its identity, while the use of additional varieties enriches this with distinctive bouquets.
This important characteristic is reflected in the small production of sparkling ‘Custoza’, which is characterised by its freshness and increased acidity, which is very well balanced with the aromatic and fruity notes.
One very rare, although traditional, product is the ‘Custoza’ passito (raisin wine), golden in colour and with a medium sweet or sweet flavour, inspired by the wines that were traditionally served to follow festive meals.

Causal link between environment and product

The fact that there is very little variation in climate conditions throughout the ‘Custoza’ DOC production area (which is, of course, not particularly large) means that the different types of grapes grown in the area (with their different ageing periods spread over time, from early varieties that are harvested at the end of August to late varieties harvested as late as the second half of October) mature evenly. This factor contributes significantly to shaping the identity of these white wines.
Equally important is the effect of the high degree of soil diversity, the result of irregular deposits left in the area by various glaciation processes. This aspect materialises in the fresh, young, spirited nature of ‘Custoza’.
In particular, due to their composition, moraine soils help to ensure regular germination of all the vines. The interaction between the soils and the area’s climate helps the grapes and shoots to develop and ripen properly.
Hot, but not suffocating, summers are conducive to a concentration of sugars, and good variations between day and night temperatures help the fruity and floral aromatic substances found in the ‘Custoza’ DOC wines to develop.
9.   Specific further requirements (packaging, labelling, other requirements)

(a)   Legal framework:
In EU legislation
Type of further condition:
Packaging within the demarcated geographical area
Description of the condition:
Bottling in the geographical area is justified by the need to safeguard the quality of the product, guarantee its origin and ensure that inspections are effective.
The distinctive features and qualities that the area of origin confers on ‘Custoza’ PDO wines are better protected by bottling the wine within the production area, as it means that all the technical rules on transport and bottling are applied and enforced under the responsibility and with the professional competence of the winemakers of that same demarcated area.
This obligation avoids the possible risks of transport outside the wine area, such as: oxidation and thermic stress due to high or low temperatures and deterioration of the product, adversely affecting its chemical/physical characteristics (acidity, polyphenols and substances conferring colour) and organoleptic characteristics (colour, aroma, taste), and its stability. The risk of microbiological contamination (from bacteria, viruses, fungi, mould or yeasts) is also reduced. This requirement benefits the operators, who are aware of the risks and responsible for preserving the quality of the PDO, and gives consumers assurance regarding the origin and quality of the wines and their conformity with the product specification. Furthermore, checks by the competent bodies are more effective in a smaller area.
Applying to limit the bottling of ‘Custoza’ PDO to the production area – a requirement applied by other renowned wine names – also constitutes a major step forward in enhancing the quality suggested by the name. This proposed amendment aims to position ‘Custoza’ as one of the most important historical names exclusively designating white wines.
Furthermore, in accordance with the relevant national legislation, in order to safeguard existing rights, the bottlers concerned may obtain a derogation to continue bottling at their premises located outside the demarcated area, provided that they submit an application to the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policy, accompanied by appropriate documentation proving that they have been bottling ‘Custoza’ PDO for at least 2 (not necessarily consecutive) years out of the 5 years preceding the entry into force of the amendment introducing the obligation to bottling ‘Custoza’ PDO in the area.
(b)   Legal framework:
In EU legislation
Type of further condition:
Derogation from production in the demarcated geographical area
Description of the condition:
In accordance with Article 5(1)(b) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) No 2019/33 the processes involved in making the spumante type (sparkling wine), including foam formation, stabilisation and sweetening operations, may take place not only in the production area, but also in the provinces of Brescia, Mantua, Trento, Treviso and Vicenza.

Link to the product specification

https://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/16009


(1)  OJ L 347, 20.12.2013, p. 671.