Publication of an application for registration of a name pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs 2022/C 63/09
Date: 2022-02-07
Institutions: Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development, European Commission
Subjects: Central Portugal, Portugal, consumer information, designation of origin, labelling, meat product, product designation, quality control of agricultural products








C_2022063EN.01001501.xml










7.2.2022   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 63/15






Publication of an application for registration of a name pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
(2022/C 63/09)
This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.
SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘Maranho da Sertã’


EU No: PGI-PT-02606 – 11 May 2020


PDO () PGI (X)

1.   Name(s)

‘Maranho da Sertã’
2.   Member State or Third Country

Portugal
3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product

Class 1.2. Meat products (cooked, salted, smoked, etc.)
3.2.   Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Maranho da Sertã’ is a sausage made using a goat or sheep stomach (known as the ‘bandouga’) for the casing, stuffed with a mixture of ingredients that are produced, prepared and filled in accordance with the product specification.
‘Maranho da Sertã’ must comply with the following limits on ingredients (% weight):






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Goat and/or sheep meat: main ingredient, 30 to 40 %, inclusive;










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‘Carolino’ rice: 15 to 25 %, inclusive;










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Mint: 2 to 6 %, inclusive;










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Streaky pork fat: 7 to 25 %, inclusive;










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Ham: 2 to 12 %, inclusive;




The following are also included as mandatory ingredients: olive oil (virgin or extra virgin), white wine, water and salt. However, goat/ sheep meat must always be the ingredient that accounts for the highest percentage.
The following ingredients may also be added on an optional basis: ‘chouriço’ sausage, lemon juice, pepper or piri-piri seasoning and garlic.
‘Maranho da Sertã’ is stomach-shaped (curving inwards or in the shape of a ‘C’). Its outer appearance is rough and the honeycomb texture of the stomach is visible. The casing holds the content together without sticking entirely to it. The sausage is unbroken and the hand stitching is visible to the naked eye. As for the inside, its appearance is irregular when sliced, with the colours of the meats and mint being visible in between the clumps of rice.
‘Maranho da Sertã’ tastes of goat and/or sheep meat with mint, and to a lesser extent, of ham and ‘chouriço’ sausage. The aromas of mint and goat and/sheep meat predominate.
When cooked, the weight of a full ‘Maranho da Sertã’ sausage can vary between 200 g and 1 200 g inclusive. It can be placed on the market whole (raw, cooked or pre-cooked) or sliced (cooked or pre-cooked).
The sodium content (g/100g) can vary between 0,7 and 2,9. The energy value (kcal/kJ) per 100 g can vary between 145/607 and 255/1 068.
‘Maranho da Sertã’ differs from other ‘maranhos’ because wild thyme (Thymus serpyllum) is not one of its ingredients, synthetic casing is not used and it is sewn together by hand with a needle and thread.
3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The mandatory ingredients for making ‘Maranho da Sertã’ are as follows: Goat or sheep stomach (‘bandouga’), goat and/or sheep meat, mint, ‘Carolino’ rice, ham, streaky pork fat, olive oil (virgin or extra virgin), white wine, salt and water. The following ingredients may be included on an optional basis: ‘chouriço’ sausage, lemon juice, pepper or piri-piri seasoning and garlic.
3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

The activities involved in producing and preparing ‘Maranho da Sertã’ must be carried out inside the geographical area.
3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product to which the registered name refers

When not intended for direct consumption at the place of production, ‘Maranho da Sertã’ must be packaged either whole (raw, cooked or pre-cooked) or sliced (cooked or pre-cooked) and be kept refrigerated until it is placed on the market.
When the product is sliced, it must be carried out in such a way as to guarantee that the slices do not break apart after they are packaged. The product may not be repackaged.
Given its fragile consistency, the crumbly nature of its filling and its perishability, ‘Maranho da Sertã’ can easily be damaged if not handled properly. With a view to guaranteeing that the end product’s characteristics are preserved and avoiding microbiological contamination, ‘Maranho da Sertã’ must be packaged immediately at the production facilities.
3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product to which the registered name refers

The label on ‘Maranho da Sertã’ must:






a)


Feature one of the following wordings: ‘Maranho da Sertã’ – Indicação Geográfica Protegida” ou ‘Maranho da Sertã’ – IGP”;










b)


identify the control body.




4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

’Maranho da Sertã’ is produced exclusively in the municipality of Sertã.
5.   Link with the geographical area

The link between ‘Maranho da Sertã’ and the geographical area derives from its reputation.
‘Maranho da Sertã’ enjoys an excellent reputation as one of the most highly acclaimed products in the gastronomy of the region. This reputation, which has grown over the years, is based on the local expertise in bringing out the best of the region’s typical ingredients to create a characteristic product that is greatly appreciated.
The characteristics that make ‘Maranho da Sertã’ unique are as follows:






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synthetic casing is not used;










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the casing is stitched by hand, which helps to define the final shape of the product (stomach-shaped) and prevent the product from bursting when cooked;










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the use of mint rather than wild thyme as an ingredient.




This product is of considerable importance to the local economy. In 2014 there were at least ‘17 companies producing “maranho” in the municipality’, with sales of ‘maranho’ amounting to ‘over 57 000 kg’ in that year (O MIRANTE, ‘Maranho Festival showcases the best of Sertã’, 14 July 2016). According to this source, these companies ‘provide over one hundred jobs’, which is extremely significant for a municipality with fewer than 15 000 residents (figures from the Portuguese National Statistics Institute, 2017). The economic importance of the production of ‘MARANHO DA SERTÃ’ was noted by the newspaper PÚBLICO, which in 2008 made the point that ‘keeping up traditions and quality can be profitable’, as demonstrated by ‘a businessperson from Sertã with two hotels, [who] sold four tonnes of “maranhos” between January and July’ (‘Cuisine’ section: association ‘preserves’ ten traditional dishes at risk of disappearing’, 22 December 2008).
‘Maranho da Sertã’ is mentioned and praised in countless newspapers, books and other publications, where it is highlighted as one of the main hallmarks of the region’s gastronomy and a reason for visiting the region. These sources explain that the ‘Maranho da Sertã’, ‘a little pouch stuffed with lamb or goat meat, rice, ham, “chouriço” sausage, pepper and white wine and heavily seasoned with mint’, is ‘one of the best-known dishes of Sertã (‘Rota da Estrada Nacional 2’, DESCLA, 2017). It has even been elevated to the status of ‘mainstay of Sertã cuisine’ (MEDIOTEJO.NET, ‘The gastronomic wealth of the municipality of Sertã’, 13 July 2018). Thus it follows that ‘no trip [to Sertã] would be complete without trying the traditional “bucho” (stomach stuffed with meat and rice) and “maranhos” made according to the traditional recipes’ (CARAS, ‘Sertã: schist rock and forest’, 8 May 2016) and that visitors would be urged to ‘try the “maranhos” consisting of a goat or kid stomach casing stuffed with a variety of meats, rice and herbs.’ (DESTAK, ‘Exploring the mountain trails of Sertã’, 7 August 2013). In his book published in Brazil, (‘Como fazer turismo de qualidade a baixo custo - Portugal’ (Quality tourism on a shoestring - Portugal); Trampolim; Brasilia, 2nd edition, 2017), Stelson S. Ponce de Azevedo claims that ‘in my opinion, the main draw of Sertã are its wines and its gastronomy: stuffed pig stomachs and ‘maranhos’.
As well as being widely available in the region’s restaurants (see PÚBLICO, ‘“Maranho” and stuffed stomach on offer in Sertã in February’, 26 January 2017, for example), ‘Maranho da Sertã’ is also featured on the menus of restaurants all over Portugal, particularly in Lisbon and Porto, where it is appreciated by locals and tourists alike (see VISÃO, ‘People from far and wide are saying Portugal is fashionable... and we have the tourists to confirm it’, 29 May 2014; EXPRESSO, ‘Eating out with José Quitério’, 10 February 2011; as well as other publications). ‘Maranho da Sertã’ is also sold in various supermarkets and specialised shops, where it is often sold as a gourmet product (see http://www.apetece.elcorteingles.pt/o-mais-fresco/orgulho-da-beira/, website visited on 12 December 2018; as well as elsewhere).
The fact that ‘Maranho da Sertã’ emerged as a distinctive product with its own particular characteristics, different from most traditional Portuguese sausage and stuffed meat products, is definitely linked to the sheep and goat livestock farming typical in the region where the municipality of Sertã is located, where headcounts of over 100 000 goats and sheep have been recorded (Salavessa, João; ‘Traditional sausage-making in the Pinhal area - Features and improvements in the technology used to make ‘maranhos’; Technical University of Lisbon; Lisbon; 2009).
The reputation of ‘Maranho da Sertã’ led to the launch of the ‘Maranho Gastronomical Festival’, an event that has been held on an annual basis in the municipality of Sertã since 2011, allowing the many thousands of visitors and enthusiasts of this product to take part in ‘maranho’ tastings and watch cookery demonstrations by prestigious Portuguese chefs such as Filipa Gomes or Justa Nobre (see EXPRESSO, ‘Gastronomical festival: “maranho” on the menu in Sertã’, 8 July 2014; PORT.COM, ‘Maranho gastronomical festival in Sertã’, 14 July 2017; RECONQUISTA, ‘Sertã: Maranho festival to continue until Sunday’, 12 July 2018; as well as other publications).
‘Maranho da Sertã’ came to the fore in the 20th century as a product primarily consumed in celebrations. One record that reveals the importance of this product for the region was the famous luncheon offered to Afonso Costa (minister and prime minister in the First Portuguese Republic), on 13 April 1913 in Cernache do Bonjardim (a locality in the municipality of Sertã), where the traditional ‘maranho’ was the main dish served.
Jaime Lopes Dias mentions the ‘Maranho da Sertã’ several times in his work ‘Etnografia da Beira’ (The Ethnography of the Beira Region), a collection consisting of eleven volumes published between 1926 and 1971 describing the Beira Baixa region and its customs). Here are some examples:






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In volume VI, published in 1942, the author states that ‘the days (…) the flax is hackled are days of celebration for the families in the municipality of Sertã. a big meat dinner [is eaten] and “maranhos” are guaranteed to feature’;










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In volume VII, published in 1948, the author writes that ‘in Arnoia, Castelo [Sertã] (…) the “maranhos” are a staple at every wedding feast (goat or kid gizzards, ham, “paio” sausage, pepper, mint, etc. stuffed into small pouches made from goat or kid intestines)’;










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In volume X, published in 1970, the author states that ‘on feast days or busy work days (...) a big meal would be guaranteed, featuring meat and specialities like the “maranhos”, which are very suitable for preparing everyday meals or snacks for those that work outside the home’. In this same volume, the author describes the ‘maranhos’ as ‘a snack made with rice, pork fat, ham, pork tenderloin, “chouriço” sausage, kid meat, mint, salt, pepper, garlic (...)’.










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It is evident that the composition of the ‘Maranho da Sertã’ presented by this author is not very different to what is currently used by producers;










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There are multiple references proving that ‘Maranho da Sertã’ has been made and consumed and that it has enjoyed an excellent reputation on a continuous basis throughout the 20th century to the present day. Here are some examples:










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In the ‘Portuguese Cuisine and Desserts’ competition organised in 1962 by the national broadcaster RTP and the State Secretariat for Information and Tourism, Noémia Neves won second prize with a recipe based on this traditional product. The recipe went on to be published in a book released after the competition;










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Maria Odette Cortes Valente, in ‘Cozinha Regional Portuguesa’ (Regional Portuguese Cuisine) (1973) and Maria de Lourdes Modesto, in ‘Cozinha Traditional Portuguesa’ (Traditional Portuguese Cuisine) (1982) both spoke highly of this product;










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In 1984, the municipality of Sertã took part in the ‘National Gastronomy Festival of Santarém’ for the first time. ‘Maranho da Sertã’ featured heavily on the menu submitted (see A COMARCA DA SERTÃ, ‘4th National Gastronomy Festival of Santarém’, 21 September 1984). Also in 1985, at the ‘Feira das Regiões’ (Fair of the Regions), Sertã put ‘Maranho da Sertã’ on the menu (see A COMARCA DA SERTÃ, ‘The Fair of the Regions, at the Lisbon International Fair (FIL)’. 31 May 1985). This was followed by countless other participations in other festivals and events;










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In an article published in 1986, the newspaper A COMARCA DA SERTÃ identified the ‘maranho’ as one of the gastronomical successes of the municipality (‘Products ‘Made in Sertã’, 11 April 1986);










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‘Maranho da Sertã’ was mentioned in various travel publications published in the 1980s, such as the ‘Roteiro Gastronómico da Região dos Templários’ (A Gastronomical Journey through the Region of the Knights Templar) (1987) and ‘Beira Baixa - Encontro por mundos julgados perdidos’ (Beira Baixa - Discovering lost worlds) (1988);










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In the 1990s, ‘Maranho da Sertã’ was mentioned in two editions of the magazine TELECULINÁRIA (issues 883 and 884 from January 1996) and in the travel publication ‘Aromas e sabores de tradição da região dos Templários’ (Traditional aromas and tastes from the Region of the Knights Templar) (1999), including a description of how it is made;










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In the 21st century, ‘Maranho da Sertã’ is mentioned in publications such as ‘Produtos Tradicionais Portugueses’ (Traditional Portuguese Products) (DGDR, 2001), ‘Guia de Compras - Produtos Tradicionais’ (Shopping Guide - Traditional Products) (2011) and ‘Guia dos Bons Produtos Tradicionais’ (Guide to Good Traditional Products) (2014 and 2015), where it is described as an emblematic traditional product in the Beiras.










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In 2013, ‘Maranho da Sertã’ was represented in the special stamp collection ‘Tastes of Air and Fire’ issued by the Portuguese postal service CTT as a tribute to the gastronomic traditions of the regions Alentejo, Algarve, Beiras and the Azores. A stamp commemorating the ‘MARANHO DA SERTÃ’ was included in another collection issued in 2014.










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In the novel ‘Amor e Guerra: de Coimbra a Nambuangongo’ (Love and War: from Coimbra to Nambuangongo) (Chiado Editora, 2017) by José Ferreira Abrantes, which is set in the 1960s and 1970s, a visit by the leading couple to Sertã is described as follows: “the first houses of Sertã came into view. (…) There was a sign for a restaurant further along the river. (…) A waitress brought the menu (...), explaining, (…) ‘The “bucho” and “maranho” are our traditional dishes, which we can serve as starters’. This clearly illustrates the importance of the ‘maranhos’ in the cuisine of Sertã for several decades.










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In an excerpt from the novel ‘Cadáveres às Costas’ (Shouldering the corpses) (D. Quixote, 2018) by Miguel Real, a female character is urged to ‘(...) go out, not stay at home, (...) travel, stop at a roadside restaurant if you get tired, try “açorda” (bread soup) from the Alentejo, “leitão” (roast suckling pig) from Bairrada, “cataplana” (seafood stew) from Coimbra, “maranhos da Sertã”, “barrigas de freiras” (dessert made from almonds, eggs, water and sugar) from Vila do Conde, “palha de Abrantes” (sweet egg yolk threads), “pão-de-ló” (sponge cake) from Ovar (...)’. This shows that ‘Maranho da Sertã’ was included in a list of famous traditional delicacies that would be instantly recognisable to the reader.





Publication reference of the specification

https://tradicional.dgadr.gov.pt/images/prod_imagens/salsicharia/docs/CE_Maranho_Serta.pdf


(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.