Publication of an application for approval of an amendment, which is not minor, to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2)(b) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs 2020/C 293/05
Date: 2020-09-04
Institutions: Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development, European Commission
Subjects: Hungary, bread, consumer information, designation of origin, labelling, product designation, quality control of agricultural products








C_2020293EN.01000601.xml










4.9.2020   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 293/6






Publication of an application for approval of an amendment, which is not minor, to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2)(b) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
(2020/C 293/05)
This publication confers the right to oppose the amendment application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.
APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF AN AMENDMENT TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION OF TRADITIONAL SPECIALITIES GUARANTEED WHICH IS NOT MINOR

Application for approval of an amendment in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2), of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012


‘TEPERTŐS POGÁCSA’


EU No: TSG-HU-00060-AM02 – 13.10.2018

1.   Applicant group and legitimate interest

Name of the group: Magyar Pékek Fejedelmi Rendje






Address:







Komárom




Dunapart u. 1.




2900




MAGYARORSZÁG/HUNGARY








Tel. +36 302593014
Email: nardaianita@gmail.com
The application for an amendment has been submitted by the producer group that applied for EU registration of ‘Tepertős pogácsa’ and comprises some of the producers of ‘Tepertős pogácsa’.
2.   Member State or Third Country

Hungary
3.   Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)







☐


Name of product










☒


Description of product










☒


Method of production










☒


Other: Point 3.2




4.   Type of amendment(s)







☒


Amendment to product specification of registered TSG not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the fourth subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012




5.   Amendment(s)

5.1.   Point 3.2 of the specification (point 1.2 of the current specification)

Formerly: The adjective ‘tepertős’ in the product name describes the ‘tepertő’ (pork crackling) that remains after fat bacon has been fried, which, following mincing, provides in creamy form the characteristic basic material of the ‘round savoury bakery product’ (pogácsa).
Amendment: The adjective ‘tepertős’ in the product name describes the ‘tepertő’ (pork crackling) that remains after fat bacon has been fried, which, following chopping, provides, in the form of minced crackling or crackling cream, the characteristic basic material of the ‘round savoury bakery product’ (pogácsa). The present-day, cylindrical variety became widespread in Hungary at the end of the Middle Ages. This griddle cake/bread, with its different varieties of dough, was the most common foodstuff in peasant cuisine and its popularity has been undeniable ever since.
Reason: Products containing crackling (skin), which is a by-product of the frying of fat bacon, have appeared on the market bearing the word ‘tepertő’. The amendment makes the definition clearer.
5.2.   Point 4.1 of the specification (point 1.5 of the current specification)

The section of the description of ‘Tepertős pogácsa’ on size and weight:
Formerly:
diameter: 3-5 cm
weight: 25-50 g
Amendment:
diameter: 3-10 cm
weight: 25-100 g
Reason: There has been a change in consumer and producer habits: larger‐sized ‘Tepertős pogácsa’ are in great demand, so both the size and weight have increased.
5.3.   Point 4.1 of the specification (point 1.5 of the current specification)

Fat content of the product in relation to the weight of flour:
Formerly: The product contains 20-30 % fat in relation to the weight of the dry matter and 25-40 % pork crackling in relation to the weight of flour.
Amendment: The product contains at least 30 % fat in relation to the weight of flour, at least 25 % of which contains pork crackling.
Reason: The fat content of the final product has been specified in relation to the weight of the flour (the main ingredient) rather than the weight of the dry matter (the final product). This amendment does not change the amount of fat in the final product, only the base to which the percentage relates. The change makes it possible to calculate the fat more accurately, based on the ingredient, i.e. the flour, rather than the dry matter content of the final product. The advantage of this calculation method is that it is easier to apply and verify in technical terms. As the link is based on the percentage of the main ingredient, the maximum percentage of fat no longer has to be specified, which makes it easier to check the specification.
5.4.   Point 4.1 of the specification (point 1.5 of the current specification)

The shape of the product in the table entitled ‘Organoleptic characteristics’:
Formerly: ‘Round, evenly cylindrical’
Amendment: Shortened to ‘Round, cylindrical’.
Reason: The product may become slightly deformed when rising and baking.
5.5.   Point 4.1 of the specification (point 1.5 of the current specification)

The fat content of the finished product calculated in relation to the weight of the dry matter, in the subsection ‘Physical and chemical characteristics’:
Formerly: 20-30 % (m/m)
Amendment: at least 20 % (m/m)
Reason: The minimum requirement of 20 % fat content of the finished product calculated in relation to the weight of the dry matter corresponds to the minimum 30 % fat content calculated in relation to the weight of the flour, as specified in point 5.3 of the amendment. There is no need to specify any upper limit, since the quantity of ingredients used to make the product already determines the fat content of the final product.
5.6.   The physical, chemical and organoleptic characteristics demonstrating the specific character of the product (the last paragraph of point 1.7 of the current specification)

Formerly: Owing to the 20-30 % fat content achieved by using the pork crackling and fat, ‘Tepertős pogácsa’ has a higher nutritive value, dries less quickly and has a longer shelf-life than other products in the same category.
Amendment: Owing to the minimum 20 % fat content achieved by using the pork crackling and fat, ‘Tepertős pogácsa’ has a high nutritive value, dries slowly and has a long shelf-life.
Reason: Because the fat content has been changed to at least 20 % (see the reason under point 5.5), the wording has been clarified and the non-relevant information deleted.
5.7.   Point 4.1 of the specification (point 1.9 of the current specification)

The table in the section ‘Minimum requirements and procedures to check the specific character’ has been amended as follows:
Formerly: Fat content – Minimum requirement: 20-30 %
Amendment: Fat content – Minimum requirement: 20 %
Reason: The specification and the requirements for checking the specific character must be aligned.
5.8.   Point 4.1 of the specification (point 1.9 of the current specification)

The table in the section ‘Minimum requirements and procedures to check the specific character’ has been amended as follows in the column ‘Verification method and frequency’:
Formerly: (regarding fat content) In accordance with the product description under point 3.5, in a laboratory once every six months.
Amendment: In line with the specification.
Reason: Based on the quantity and quality of the ingredients stated in the follow-up documentation and bill of materials, the fat content of the product can be determined by calculating it, rather than through costly laboratory testing.
5.9.   Point 4.1 of the specification (point 1.9 of the current specification)

The table in the section ‘Minimum requirements and procedures to check the specific character’ has been amended as follows in the rows ‘crackling (cream)’ and ‘ingredients’:
Formerly: On the basis of the file or sheet relating to the product, with documentation by batch.
Amendment: On the basis of the product file.
Reason: The broader term ‘product file’ should be used, because confectioners use a record of material ratios, whereas bakers use a product sheet. These are known collectively as a ‘product file’.
5.10.   Point 4.2 of the specification (point 1.6 of the current specification)

‘Starting materials’:
Formerly: Only crackling cream was included.
Amendment: Minced crackling is added alongside crackling cream.
For preparation of the minced crackling:
Only fresh, skinless crackling is allowed, which is made up of the fried pieces of lard remaining after the fat bacon with little or no meat has been fried.
Reason: The range of practices used by producers to satisfy consumer demands must be taken into account, since only minced crackling can be used to produce this baking product without affecting the product’s characteristics.
5.11.   Point 4.2 of the specification (point 1.6 of the current specification)

The following is added to the section of ‘Starting materials’ on preparation of the crackling cream:
Formerly:






—


Pork crackling without the skin: 70-75 % of the crackling cream is made up of the fried pieces of lard remaining after the fat bacon with little or no meat has been fried,










—


Pig fat: 25-30 % of the crackling cream is made up of the fat obtained while the fat bacon with little or no meat is in the process of being fried.




Amendment:






—


Pork crackling without the skin: 70-75 % of the crackling cream is made up of the fried pieces of lard remaining after the fat bacon with little or no meat has been fried,










—


Pig fat: 25-30 % of the crackling cream is made up of the fat obtained while the fat bacon with little or no meat is in the process of being fried.




An important requirement is that no additives, preservatives, crackling from the fatty tissue of other animals, vegetable fat or margarine may be used to prepare the crackling cream, only fresh, skinless crackling is allowed.
Reason: To make the specification more technically accurate.
5.12.   In the section ‘Production of short “TEPERTŐS POGÁCSA”’

Formerly: First stage: preparation of the crackling cream
Amendment: The first stage is the preparation of the minced crackling and the crackling cream.
Reason: To make the specification more technically accurate.
5.13.   First sentence of the description of the first stage

Formerly: The fresh, skinless crackling is crushed with a rolling-pin on a board ...
Amendment: When preparing the minced crackling, the fresh, skinless crackling is crushed with a rolling-pin on a board ...
Reason: Minced crackling has been added to make the specification more technically accurate.
5.14.   Fourth sentence of the description of the first stage

Formerly: The cream and the pig fat are mixed with a wooden spoon or mixer.
Amendment: When preparing the crackling cream, the minced crackling and the pig fat are mixed with a wooden spoon or mixer.
Reason: To make the specification more technically accurate.
5.15.   Fifth sentence of the first stage in point 1.6 of the original specification

Formerly: An important requirement is that no additives, preservatives, goose crackling, vegetable fat or margarine may be used to prepare the crackling cream, only fresh, skinless crackling is allowed.
Amendment: An important requirement is that no additives, preservatives, crackling from the fatty tissue of other animals, vegetable fat or margarine may be used to prepare the crackling cream, only fresh, skinless crackling is allowed.
Reason: It has been clarified that crackling made from the fat of other animals, and not just goose crackling, cannot be used.
Also, the amended sentence has been moved to the section ‘Starting materials’ in point 4.2 of the current specification, as it contains relevant information that applies to both short and flaky ‘tepertős pogácsa’.
5.16.   Sixth sentence of the description of the first stage

Formerly: Crackling cream produced industrially must also meet the requirements for making crackling cream.
Amendment: Anyone using crackling cream produced industrially must meet the requirements of the specification.
Reason: Only the wording of the sentence has changed; the meaning remains the same.
5.17.   Second stage: preparation of the dough, first sentence

Formerly: 250-400 g of crackling cream is kneaded into each kilogram of wheat flour to form an even mixture.
Amendment: At least 300 g of minced crackling or crackling cream is rubbed into each kilogram of wheat flour to form an even mixture.
Reason: Because the taste of the crackling is more discernible, the minimum value had to be increased, and no maximum value is required.
5.18.   Second stage: preparation of the dough, third sentence

Formerly: 2,5 % of salt, 0,001 % of ground pepper and enough cream to obtain a fairly firm dough,
Amendment: at most 3,5 % of salt, 0,5 % of ground pepper and enough cream and/or water to obtain a fairly firm dough,
Reason: Previously, the quantity of salt and pepper was extremely low. It has had to be increased due to the distinctive taste. Also, ‘and/or water’ has to be added after ‘cream’, because water may occasionally have to be used alongside cream, to adjust the thickness of the dough.
5.19.   The following sentence of the second stage

Formerly: The cutting out is generally done with a dough cutter 3-6 cm in diameter,
Amendment: The cutting out is generally done with a dough cutter 3-10 cm in diameter,
Reason: The upper limit had to be changed due to changes in consumer and producer habits.
5.20.   The last paragraph of the second stage

Formerly: After the scones have been placed on the baking tray they are left to rise for 50-55 minutes, then baked in a hot oven at 220-240 °C for 12‐15 minutes. Then they are ready.
Amendment: After the scones have been placed on the baking tray they are left to rise for 50-55 minutes, then baked in a hot oven at 220-240 °C. Then they are ready. The baking time is 8-18 minutes, depending on the weight of the product and the power of the oven.
Reason: Baking times are standard. The baking time must be set in line with the weight of the product and the technical characteristics of the oven.
5.21.   In the section ‘Production of flaky “TEPERTŐS POGÁCSA”’

Formerly: First stage: preparation of the crackling cream
The preparation of the crackling cream is similar to that for the short variety, the only difference being that, in addition to the fat and skinless pork crackling, salt (about 1,5 % in relation to the weight of the flour) and finely ground pepper (about 0,001 % in relation to the weight of the flour) are also used.
Amendment: First stage: preparation of the minced crackling and the crackling cream
The preparation of the minced crackling and the crackling cream is similar to that for the short variety, the only difference being that, in addition to the fat and skinless pork crackling, salt (about 3,5 % in relation to the weight of the flour) and finely ground pepper (about 0,5 % in relation to the weight of the flour) are also used.
Reason: In line with previous sections, minced crackling has been added alongside crackling cream, and the amount of salt and pepper used has been increased.
5.22.   The third sentence of ‘Second stage: preparation of the dough’

Formerly: and enough cream to obtain a fairly supple dough which is firm and easily malleable. Keeping the ingredients and the minced crackling or the crackling cream at a low temperature is important for this variety so that the minced crackling or the crackling cream can separate the dough layers when the flaky structure is prepared.
Amendment: and enough cream and/or water to obtain a fairly supple dough which is firm and easily malleable. Keeping the ingredients and the minced crackling or the crackling cream at a low temperature is important for this variety so that the minced crackling or the crackling cream can separate the dough layers when the flaky structure is prepared.
Reason: The words ‘and/or water’ have to be added alongside ‘cream’, because water may occasionally have to be used alongside cream to adjust the thickness of the dough. Also, ‘minced crackling’ has been added alongside ‘crackling cream’ for the reasons mentioned above.
5.23.   The fourth paragraph of ‘Second stage: preparation of the dough’

Formerly: using a dough cutter 3-6 cm in diameter
Amendment: using a dough cutter 3-10 cm in diameter
Reason: The upper limit had to be changed due to changes in consumer and producer habits.
5.24.   The last paragraph of ‘Second stage: preparation of the dough’

Formerly: the scones are placed, evenly spaced, on the baking tray; they are left to rise for 40-45 minutes and then baked in a hot oven at 220-240 °C for 8-10 minutes. Then they are ready.
Amendment: the scones are placed, evenly spaced, on the baking tray; they are left to rise for 40-45 minutes and then baked in a hot oven at 220-240 °C. Then they are ready. The baking time is 8-18 minutes, depending on the weight of the product and the power of the oven.
Reason: Baking times are standard. The baking time must be set in line with the weight of the product and the technical characteristics of the oven.

PRODUCT SPECIFICATION OF A TRADITIONAL SPECIALITY GUARANTEED


‘TEPERTŐS POGÁCSA’


EU No: TSG-HU-00060-AM02 – 13.10.2018


‘Hungary’

1.   Name to be registered


‘Tepertős pogácsa’

When the product is placed on the market, the label may contain the following information: ‘magyar hagyományok szerint előállított’ (produced in accordance with Hungarian traditions). The information shall also be translated into other official languages.
2.   Type of product (as in Annex XI)

Class 2.24: bread, pastry, cakes, confectionery, biscuits and other baker’s wares
3.   Grounds for registration

3.1.   The product:







☒


results from a mode of production, processing or composition corresponding to traditional practice for that product or foodstuff;










☐


is produced from raw materials or ingredients that are those traditionally used.




‘Tepertős pogácsa’ is a round, cylindrically shaped savoury bakery product seasoned with salt and pepper. It contains minced pork crackling or crackling cream and pig fat, is leavened with yeast and its texture may be short (omlós) or flaky (leveles). The surface is reddish brown and scored into squares. The crackling, which comprises the pieces obtained by frying fat bacon containing little or no meat, gives ‘Tepertős pogácsa’ its specific character. It has the characteristic taste of the fried products used in the pork crackling and is pleasantly salty and mildly peppered.
3.2.   Whether the name:







☒


has been traditionally used to refer to the specific product;










☐


identifies the traditional character or specific character of the product.




The adjective ‘tepertős’ in the product name describes the ‘tepertő’ (pork crackling) that remains after fat bacon has been fried, which, following chopping, provides, in the form of minced crackling or crackling cream, the characteristic basic material of the ‘round savoury bakery product’ (pogácsa). The present-day, cylindrical variety became widespread in Hungary at the end of the Middle Ages. This griddle cake/bread, with its different varieties of dough, was the most common foodstuff in peasant cuisine and its popularity has been undeniable ever since.
4.   Description

4.1.   Description of the product to which the name under point 1 applies, including its main physical, chemical, microbiological or organoleptic characteristics showing the product’s specific character (Article 7(2) of this Regulation)

‘Tepertős pogácsa’ is a round, cylindrically shaped savoury bakery product seasoned with salt and pepper, with a diameter of 3-10 cm and weight of 25‐100 g. It contains minced pork crackling or crackling cream and pig fat, is leavened with yeast and its texture may be short (omlós) or flaky (leveles). The surface is reddish brown and scored into squares. The underside is smooth and reddish brown. Inside, the pieces of pork crackling are evenly distributed. The short variety may be broken into pieces, while the flaky variety has a loose, multi-layered structure. It has the characteristic taste of the fried products used in the pork crackling and is pleasantly salty and mildly peppered. The product contains at least 30 % fat in relation to the weight of flour, at least 25 % of which contains pork crackling. At least 60 % of the fat content comes from the pork crackling.

Organoleptic characteristics








 


Short ‘tepertős pogácsa’


Flaky ‘tepertős pogácsa’




Shape


Round, cylindrical.


Round cylindrical, may ‘tilt’ slightly.




Crust


The top is shiny, reddish brown and deeply scored with squares. The sides are sand coloured and mat and the bottom is reddish brown and mat.




Internal structure


Clearly short texture but not crumbly. The crackling pieces are evenly distributed and are slightly brown in colour.


Slightly flaky texture, made up of different layers between which the crackling can be seen, slightly brown in colour.




Taste


Characteristic of the crackling, it has a pleasantly salty, mildly peppery taste.




Aroma


Characteristic of the crackling and the pig fat; peppery.





Physical and chemical characteristics

Fat content: the fat content of the finished product by weight in the dry matter is at least 20 % (m/m)
Salt content: the salt content of the finished product calculated in relation to the weight of the dry matter is at most 4 % (m/m)
The specific character of the product is based on the following:






—


the basic material comprising pork crackling and pork fat,










—


the special technique used to prepare the dough,










—


the physical, chemical and organoleptic characteristics.




The basic material, pork crackling, gives the product its character.
The crackling, which comprises the pieces obtained by frying fat bacon containing little or no meat, gives ‘Tepertős pogácsa’ its specific character. The crackling has a protein content of 12-13 %, a fat content of 82-84 % and provides at least 60 % of the fat contained in the product.
The special technique used to prepare the dough
The crackling which is used to make the short variety also makes it possible to prepare the dough by means of a special folding technique which gives it its flaky structure; moreover, the high fat content means that the dough must undergo special preparation in cold conditions at 24-26 °C.
The physical, chemical and organoleptic characteristics
Owing to the minimum 20 % fat content achieved by using the pork crackling and fat, ‘Tepertős pogácsa’ has a high nutritive value, dries slowly and has a long shelf-life.

Minimum requirements to check the specific character








Specific character:


Minimum requirements:


Verification method and frequency:




fat content








—


at least 20 % (of the dry matter) – only pig fat may be used






In line with the specification.




crackling (cream)








—


pork crackling must be used










—


crackling without skin must be used






On the basis of the product file.




ingredients








—


in line with the specification (pork crackling, pig fat, wheat flour, egg, egg yolk, milk, yeast, white wine or vinegar, cream and/or water, salt and pepper)






On the basis of the product file.




organoleptic characteristics of the product (content, taste and aroma)








—


short or flaky texture










—


taste and aroma characteristic of the crackling and mildly peppered






Organoleptic test every shift.




4.2.   Description of the production method of the product to which the name under point 1 applies that the producers must follow including, where appropriate, the nature and characteristics of the raw materials or ingredients used, and the method by which the product is prepared (Article 7(2) of this Regulation)

STARTING MATERIALS:
Minced crackling or crackling cream
For preparation of the minced crackling:
Only fresh, skinless crackling is allowed, which is made up of the fried pieces of lard remaining after the fat bacon with little or no meat has been fried.
For the crackling cream:






—


Pork crackling without the skin: 70-75 % of the crackling cream is made up of the fried pieces of lard remaining after the fat bacon with little or no meat has been fried,










—


Pig fat: 25-30 % of the crackling cream is made up of the fat obtained while the fat bacon with little or no meat is in the process of being fried.




An important requirement is that no additives, preservatives, crackling from the fatty tissue of other animals, vegetable fat or margarine may be used to prepare the crackling cream, only fresh, skinless crackling is allowed.
Preparation of the dough:
wheat flour or spelt flour, egg, egg yolk, milk, yeast, white wine or vinegar, cream and/or water, salt and pepper.
It is forbidden to use any kind of food additives (e.g. raising agents or preservatives) to prepare ‘Tepertős pogácsa’.
Method of production
Depending on the method used to prepare the dough, the ‘Tepertős pogácsa’ may have a flaky or short texture.
Production of short ‘TEPERTŐS POGÁCSA’
First stage: preparation of the minced crackling and the crackling cream
When preparing the minced crackling, the fresh, skinless crackling is crushed with a rolling-pin on a board until the coarsest and most irregular pieces have been flattened and the fried pieces are evenly distributed. They may also be minced with a mincer. In that case, the disk with the smallest perforations should be used.
When preparing the crackling cream, the minced crackling and the pig fat are mixed with a wooden spoon or mixer.
Anyone using crackling cream produced industrially must meet the requirements of the specification.
Second stage: preparation of the dough
At least 300 g of minced crackling or crackling cream is rubbed into each kilogram of wheat flour to form an even mixture. In order to obtain a short consistency it is essential to cover the flour particles with the cream. All the ingredients, i.e. the flour mixed with the minced crackling or the crackling cream and, for each kilogram of flour, 5 % of yeast activated in milk, 1 egg, 1 egg yolk, 0,02 % of white wine or vinegar, a maximum 3,5 % of salt, 0,5 % of ground pepper and enough cream to obtain a fairly firm dough, are kneaded together. Kneading is continued until the dough binds together. The required short consistency will not be achieved if the dough is over-kneaded.
Because of the product’s high fat content, the dough should be prepared from cold ingredients and left to rest in a cool place until its core temperature reaches 26 °C. Given the nature of the product, the dough may be placed in a refrigerator at a temperature of + 5–8 °C and left to rest for at least 3 hours.
The risen and cooled dough must then be rolled out into a finger-thick layer and the top scored with deep perpendicular lines. This may also be done with knives assembled together at a distance of about 3 mm from each other. The cutting out is generally done with a dough cutter 3-10 cm in diameter, while making sure that the shapes are regular and remain as cylindrical as possible. The final shaping is done by rolling the dough with the palm of the hand. The scones needed to fill the baking tray are placed close to each other on the pastry board and then coated with beaten egg using a brush, care being taken not to let the egg run down the sides of the cylinders. When the egg has slightly dried on the surface the scones are placed, evenly spaced, on the baking tray. The pieces of dough left over may be gathered together and kneaded at most twice, without handling them too much, and after being left to rest they may be shaped again.
After the scones have been placed on the baking tray they are left to rise for 50-55 minutes, then baked in a hot oven at 220-240 °C. Then they are ready. The baking time is 8-18 minutes, depending on the weight of the product and the power of the oven.
The products are sold without packaging (loose) or pre-packed.
Production of flaky ‘TEPERTŐS POGÁCSA’:
First stage: preparation of the minced crackling and the crackling cream
The preparation of the minced crackling and the crackling cream is similar to that for the short variety, the only difference being that, in addition to the fat and skinless pork crackling, salt (about 2,5 % in relation to the weight of the flour) and finely ground pepper (about 0,5 % in relation to the weight of the flour) are also used. Salt is used at this stage because, if the amount of salt necessary for the characteristically salty taste of the scones were added only when preparing the dough, the dough would tear and not enable the flaky texture to be obtained.
50 %, i.e. half, of the quantity of fat appropriate for the preparation of the crackling cream is used and the other half is set aside for the dough.
Second stage: preparation of the dough
The ‘basic dough’ is prepared with flour, the fat set aside when the crackling cream is prepared, and salt (approximately 1 % in relation to the weight of the flour), as well as, per kilogram of flour, 5 % of yeast activated in milk, 0.02 % of white wine or vinegar and, possibly, 1 egg, 1 egg yolk and enough cream and/or water to obtain a fairly supple dough which is firm and easily malleable.
Keeping the ingredients and the minced crackling or the crackling cream at a low temperature is important for this variety so that the minced crackling or the crackling cream can separate the dough layers when the flaky structure is prepared. The fat between the thin layers of cold dough melts during baking and prevents the dough layers from sticking. In the meantime, the water in the dough and the fat turns into steam, softening and separating the layers of dough, a process by which the product being baked separates into leaves.
The flaky structure may be achieved in two ways:






(a)


The minced crackling or the crackling cream is spread evenly on the thin layers of dough, then the dough is rolled up starting from one end. This roll is left to rest for 15-30 minutes, then the dough is rolled back out into a thin layer and rolled up again at 90 degrees to the previous rolling. If this process is not carried out, the scones will collapse during baking.










(b)


The rested basic dough is rolled out into a thin layer and the minced crackling or the crackling cream is spread on its surface at each folding. In this case it is not rolled up but folded (at least three times).




Before the last rolling-out the dough is rested for at least 15 minutes, then it is rolled out until it is finger-thick (1-2 cm); its surface is scored with deep perpendicular lines and it is cut up using a dough cutter 3-10 cm in diameter. The scones needed to fill the baking tray are placed close to each other on the pastry board and then coated with beaten egg using a brush, care being taken not to let the egg run down the sides of the cylinders.
When the egg has dried slightly on the surface, the scones are placed, evenly spaced, on the baking tray; they are left to rise for 40-45 minutes and then baked in a hot oven at 220-240 °C. Then they are ready. The baking time is 8-18 minutes, depending on the weight of the product and the power of the oven.
The products are sold without packaging (loose) or pre-packed.
4.3.   Description of the key elements establishing the product’s traditional character (Article 7(2) of this Regulation)

The word ‘pogácsa’ (scone) was first used around 1395 and originally meant a griddle cake/bread baked in ash and embers. In Hungarian folk tales the scone became known as ‘hamuban sült pogácsa’ (scone baked in ash). Until the end of the 17th century the griddle cake/bread, which was eaten like bread, was called scone-bread or scone-type bread. The present-day variety – which is smaller, cylindrical and marked with a square pattern – became widespread in Hungary at the end of the Middle Ages. This griddle cake/bread, with its different varieties of dough, was the most common foodstuff in peasant cuisine and its popularity has been undeniable ever since.
Two conditions enabled the development of ‘Tepertős pogácsa’: firstly, the custom of frying fat from bacon became widespread and, secondly, crackling became an everyday food. According to a description of a middle-ranking noble family in the county of Somogy dating from 1770, frying bacon and making crackling became part of the customs of noble households from the 18th century onwards. Proof of this is provided by the succession inventory of noble families, which shows that fat/lard firkins started to appear in the Great Plain from the 18th century (Cegléd 1850-1900, published by Ceglédi Kossuth Múzeum, Cegléd, 1988, pp. 28, 30 Szűcs). The custom of frying bacon and eating fat/lard probably became part of the popular peasant tradition of preparing pig in the mid-19th century, because from the 1850s onwards fat/lard firkins appeared in the peasant registers of the area between the Danube and the Tisza.
According to oral ethnographic data from the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, crackling was used for making soap by peasant households in the Central Tisza region, and eating crackling developed gradually. After slaughtering a pig, the scones were baked with fresh, generally small, skinless crackling. Major consolidated works produced in the 1930s in the field of ethnography refer to scones made with risen or unrisen dough based on wheat flour and already embellished, among other ingredients, with crackling (Bátky Zs.: ‘Táplálkozás’ (Food) in: A magyarság néprajza (Ethnography of the Hungarians), Budapest, 1933, p. 100) and it can therefore be maintained that the addition of crackling from bacon fried to risen dough became a widespread custom at the beginning of the 20th century.
Today, ‘Tepertős pogácsa’ has become an important part of everyday meals and is served after soups (made with meat or beans). It is offered to meeting or conference participants and is a dish favoured in the home, especially on the occasion of family celebrations (weddings, christenings) or feasts (Christmas, Easter); it is also often served as a savoury snack to accompany wine in agri-tourism [Hagyományok Ízek Régiók (Regional Taste Traditions), vol. I, p. 145-147, 2001].
From the 1880s to the present day several cookery books have attested to its reputation, including Dobos C. József: Magyar-Franczia szakácskönyv (Hungarian-French cookery book) pp. 784-785, 1881; Rozsnyai Károly: Legújabb nagy házi cukrászat (The latest home-made confectionery) p. 350, 1905; Kincses Váncza receptkönyv (Kincses Váncza recipe book) p. 21, 1920; Az Új idők második receptkönyve (The second volume of the modern‐day recipe book), p. 182, 1934; Hajdú Ernőné: Jaj, mit főzzek? (What shall I cook?), p. 73, 1941; Rudnay János: A magyar cukrászat remekei (Masterpieces of Hungarian confectionery), p. 89, 1973.


(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.