Publication of an application for approval of non-minor amendments to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs2020/C 46/13
Date: 2020-02-11
Institutions: Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development, European Commission
Subjects: Aquitaine, Auvergne, France, Midi-Pyrenées, consumer information, cows’ milk cheese, designation of origin, labelling, product designation, quality control of agricultural products, semi-soft cheese








C_2020046EN.01001401.xml










11.2.2020   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 46/14






Publication of an application for approval of non-minor amendments to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
(2020/C 46/13)
This publication confers the right to oppose the amendment application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months of the date of this publication.
APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF NON-MINOR AMENDMENTS TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION FOR A PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN OR PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION

Application for approval of amendments pursuant to the first subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012


‘CANTAL’/‘FOURME DE CANTAL’/‘CANTALET’


EU No: PDO-FR-0113-AM02 – 30 January 2019


PDO (X) PGI ( )

1.   Applicant group and legitimate interest

Joint Trades Committee for cheeses produced in the department of Cantal and in the geographical area of the ‘Cantal’ designation of origin (Comité Interprofessionnel des Fromages, CIF)
Address:





52 avenue des Pupilles de la Nation




BP 124




15001 Aurillac cedex




FRANCE




Tel. +33 471483994




Email: info@aop-cantal.com




The group is made up of milk producers, processors and ripeners and therefore has a legitimate right to request amendments to the product specification.
2.   Member State or third country

France
3.   Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)







☒


Product name










☒


Product description










☒


Geographical area










☒


Proof of origin










☒


Production method










☒


Link










☒


Labelling










☒


Other: responsible body in the Member State, applicant group, inspection bodies, national requirements




4.   Type of amendment(s)







☐


Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012










☒


Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI for which a Single Document (or equivalent) has not been published not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012




5.   Amendment(s)

—   ‘Product name’ heading

‘Cantal or Fourme de Cantal, Petit Cantal, Cantalet’ has been replaced by‘“Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal”’. The name ‘Cantalet’ has been dropped, as it is seldom used. The name ‘Petit Cantal’ has been removed from the product name, as it has not been registered as a PDO. Instead, the adjective ‘small’ is to be used for smaller-sized cheeses in the ‘Labelling’ section.
These amendments are also made in point 1 of the Single Document in relation to point 3 of the summary sheet.
—   ‘Product description’ heading

The paragraph ‘“Cantal” is a cheese with a pressed, uncooked paste and dry crust, and its total dry extract contains at least 45 % fat’
has been replaced by:

‘“Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” is a cheese with a dry crust whose thickness increases as the cheese ripens. It is made entirely of cow’s milk with rennet added, and has a hard, uncooked paste that is pressed twice, with grinding of the curds between the first and second pressing. The cheese mass is salted, and its total dry extract contains at least 45 % fat. The minimum dry extract is 57 % at the end of the minimum ripening period for “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal”, namely 30 days from the renneting date.’

It has thus been added that the thickness of the crust of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ increases as the cheese ripens, that the cheese is made entirely of cow’s milk with rennet added, that it has a hard paste that is pressed twice, with grinding of the curds between the first and second pressing, and that the cheese mass is salted, as these details are required to accurately describe the product.
It has also been added that the minimum dry extract is 57 % at the end of the minimum ripening period for ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’, namely 30 days from the renneting date. Adding this analytical descriptor enables the product to be more accurately defined.






—


The following paragraphs:

‘The cheese is in the form of a slightly bulging wheel, weighing 35 to 45 kilogrammes and having a diameter of 36 to 42 centimetres.’

‘Small-sized cheeses with the following names may bear the Designation of Origin:






—


Petit Cantal, weighing 15 to 20 kg and having a diameter of 26 to 28 cm,










—


Cantalet, weighing 8 to 10 kg and having a diameter of 20 to 22 cm.’




have been replaced by the following paragraph:
‘“Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” is in the form of a slightly bulging wheel, with rounded edges and no irregularities:






—


weighing either 35 to 45 kg, when made in moulds of 36 to 42 cm in diameter (large size);










—


or weighing 8 to 10 kg, when made in moulds of 20 to 22 cm in diameter (small size).’








The description of the cheese’s shape in the form of a wheel has been further qualified: the reference to a ‘slightly bulging wheel’ has been replaced by an indication that the truckle is regular, with rounded edges and no irregularities, to avoid confusion with other similar products.
The diameters of the cheese (36 to 42 cm for the large cheese and 20 to 22 cm for the small cheese) have been replaced with the diameters of the moulds, as the diameter of the cheese may fluctuate slightly during ripening.
The 15 to 20 kg size, which is rare, has been removed and replaced by the existing size of 8 to 10 kg, which is referred to as the ‘small size’ compared to the ‘large size’ of 35 to 45 kg.






—


For the reasons referred to above, the following paragraphs in points 5(b) ‘description’ and 5(e) ‘acquisition’, respectively, of the summary sheet:

‘Cow’s milk cheese with pressed, uncooked paste and dry crust in the form of a slightly bulging wheel, weighing 35 to 45 kilogrammes and having a diameter of 36 to 42 centimetres, but also made in smaller sizes (20 kg or 10 kg); contains at least 45 % fat.’


‘Made entirely of cow’s milk with rennet added. The grains of curd are gathered together, pressed and allowed to mature, then ground; the resulting granules are salted then put into moulds before being pressed for a second time; the cheese ripens for at least 30 days in a cool, damp room’





have been replaced with the following paragraphs in point 3.2 of the Single Document:

‘“Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” is a cheese with a dry crust whose thickness increases as the cheese ripens, made entirely of cow’s milk with rennet added. It has a hard, uncooked paste that is pressed twice, with grinding of the curds between the first and second pressing. The cheese mass is salted, and the total dry extract contains at least 45 per cent fat. The minimum dry extract is 57 % at the end of the minimum ripening period for “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal”, or 30 days from the renneting date.’


‘Truckles of “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” are in the traditional form of a slightly bulging wheel with rounded edges and no irregularities:






—


weighing either 35 to 45 kg, when made in moulds of 36 to 42 cm in diameter (large size);










—


or weighing 8 to 10 kg, when made in moulds of 20 to 22 cm in diameter (small size).’











—


The following paragraph has been added:
‘“Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” cheeses bear the words “jeune”, “entre-deux” or “vieux”, depending on the ripening period and the dry extract, and they are defined as follows:






—


“Jeune”: the ripening period ranges from a minimum of 30 days to a maximum of 60 days, and the dry extract is at least 57 %;










—


“Entre-deux”: the ripening period varies from a minimum of 90 days to a maximum of 210 days, and the dry extract is at least 58 %;










—


“Vieux”: the ripening period is a minimum of 240 days and the dry extract at least 60 %.’








In other words, three ripening stages (‘jeune’, ‘entre-deux’ and ‘vieux’) are defined according to the ripening period and the minimum dry extract, (which increases as ripening progresses), to make it easier for consumers to read and identify their preferred cheese. ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ is traditionally eaten at various ripening stages. The external appearance (a crust that changes from a greyish white, to golden and then brown), paste (a texture that becomes slightly crumblier) and taste (increasingly intense) of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ cheese changes depending on how long it has been ripened.
These additions have also been made to point 3.2 of the Single Document.






—


The following sentence has been added: ‘The ripening period is counted from the renneting date’, because this information is required for checks.




This sentence has also been added under point 3.2 of the Single Document.






—


The sentences ‘The paste, ranging in colour from cream or ivory to straw yellow, tastes creamy and subtle’ and ‘As the ripening period lengthens, the dry crust develops from a greyish white to dark ochre in colour’




have been replaced by the words:

‘The hard paste, ranging in colour from ivory to dark yellow, which is malleable for the younger cheeses and may become slightly crumbly for the more mature cheeses’ and ‘The dry crust develops gradually from a greyish white to golden and then brown, and it may be speckled with ochre to brown spots’.

The description of the cheese’s paste and crust has thus been amended based on the data collated by the tasting panels. This description better charts how the cheese develops as it ripens.
This new description of the paste and crust has been added to point 3.2 of the Single Document.






—


A description of the taste of the product has been added: ‘The taste, which is milky and may be slightly acidic at the beginning of ripening, gradually richens until it becomes fruity, intense and lasting’ to better describe the product.




This has also been added to point 3.2 of the Single Document.






—


The sentences ‘“Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” may be sold in portions or grated’ and ‘With the exception of individual portions of less than 70 g, cubes and grated cheese, it is obligatory to keep part of the crust’ has been added. These provisions make it possible to lay down a framework in a context of continuous flux in the how cheese is eaten.




The sentence ‘It is prohibited to mix grated cheese obtained from “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” cheeses marked as being at different stages of ripening’ has been added so that the grated product can be clearly labelled using the correct designation of origin and stage of ripening, thereby better informing consumers.
These additions have also been made to point 3.5 of the Single Document.
—   ‘Geographical area’ section







—


The sentence ‘The production area covers the entire department of Cantal and the contiguous cantons from the following departments: Aveyron, Corrèze, Haute-Loire and Puy-de-Dôme (cf. list of municipalities under Article 1 of the Decree of 29 December 1986)’




has been replaced by the following paragraph:
‘The milk is produced and the cheeses with the designation of origin “Cantal” / “Fourme de Cantal” are manufactured and ripened in the geographical area approved by the National Institute of Origin and Quality at the meeting of the competent national committee on 21 March 2018. The perimeter of this area comprises the territory of the following municipalities, based on the 2017 Official Geographic Code: […]’. This paragraph is followed by the list of municipalities or parts of municipalities making up the geographical area, which replaces the previous geographical area. The proposed geographical area, where all of the production and processing of the product take place, covers the territory of 278 municipalities, of which two only partially, spread over five departments. Compared to the previous geographical area, it has lost three municipalities in the department of Aveyron, nine in the department of Cantal and 210 municipalities in their entirety, plus part of one municipality in the department of Puy-de-Dôme. It is supplemented by part of a municipality in the department of Corrèze and by a municipality in the department of Haute-Loire.
The purpose of the overall reduction in the geographical area is to make it more consistent with the elements linking the area to the origin of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’. The revised geographical area corresponds to the traditional production and ripening area of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’, which is associated with the historical community of Haute-Auvergne and the department of Cantal and where practices for collecting the milk and manufacturing and ripening ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ were established a good 30 years ago. The geographical area combines agricultural practices that are strongly geared towards grass production with the characteristics of a cool and humid mid-range mountain environment, which typically has a minimum altitude of 500 m and/or significant rises and drops with a steepness of over 15 %, minimum annual rainfall of 700 mm, vegetation typical of hill and alpine levels on a geological substratum consisting of a Hercynian base with an eroded volcanic top layer and, here and there, small sedimentary basins between the mountains.
The municipalities withdrawn from the geographical area can no longer be said to have consistently manufactured ‘Cantal’ / ‘Fourme de Cantal’ over the past 30 years or so. The two municipalities or parts of municipalities added to the departments of Corrèze and Haute-Loire have a natural environment with characteristics comparable to those in other parts of the geographical area as well as long-standing, quality-oriented practices for ripening ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ beyond the minimum ripening period of 30 days.






—


The sentence ‘The entire department of Cantal and the contiguous cantons from the departments of Aveyron, Corrèze, Haute-Loire and Puy-de-Dôme’ in point 5(c) of the summary sheet has been replaced by the list of municipalities or parts of municipalities making up the new geographical area under point 4 of the Single Document.










—


The following two sentences have been inserted: ‘The National Institute of Origin and Quality shall submit the maps establishing the limits of the geographical area thus approved to the town halls of the municipalities included in part. Maps of the geographical area can be found on the National Institute of Origin and Quality website’. This addition clarifies how to consult the map of the geographical area.




—   ‘Proof of origin’ heading

All the provisions under this heading have been added to the product specification to take account of changes in the inspection system for protected designations of origin.
Several statement forms have therefore been added:






—


an ‘ID statement’, which is a prerequisite for establishing operators’ ability to comply with the specification of the designation from which they wish to benefit;










—


‘statements authorising producers to suspend or resume production’; these statements enable accurate monitoring of operators wishing to withdraw for a short period from the designation of origin. This makes it easier to manage the designation of origin, in particular as regards checks on production conditions and organoleptic tests.










—


‘statements required to notify and monitor the products to be sold under the designation of origin’: the contents of these statements and the rules for making them have been added.




These statements enable the applicant group to properly monitor the designation.






—


The list of ‘registrations concerning traceability, monitoring and inspection of production conditions’ that must be carried out by operators in milk production, collection, processing and ripening has been added to make it easier to check traceability and production conditions as defined in the specification.










—


The sentence ‘An uncoloured aluminium label used to identify the cheese must be affixed during production to the heel of each truckle’ in the ‘Labelling’ section of the current specification.




has been replaced by the sentences:

‘It is obligatory to identify the cheese. This is done by affixing an identification mark to the cheese when placing it in the mould’.

This specifies more precisely when the identification mark is affixed (‘when placing [the cheese] in the mould’ instead of ‘during production’), in accordance with current practice. The reference to where on the cheese where the mark is affixed (‘to the heel’) has been removed, as it is not necessary for identifying the product.
It has been added that ‘This identification mark may only be used once’ in order to improve traceability.






—


The reference to ‘an uncoloured aluminium label’ and the sentence ‘It has two letters, either “CA” for Cantal, “CP” for Petit Cantal or “CT” for Cantalet, and the identification number of the production workshop’ in the ‘Labelling’ section of the current specification.




has been replaced by the sentence:
‘The nature, colour, dimensions and description of the identification mark comply with the rules in force’. This takes account of changes in materials and, marking techniques used for products and in the identifying information appearing on the product for the purpose of guaranteeing and reinforcing its traceability.






—


The following sentences have been added:

‘Above the identification mark, “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” cheeses manufactured on the farm bear an embossed stamp on both sides, with the words “Cantal Fermier”, affixed when the cheese is placed in the mould. They may also feature an embossed stamp with the inscription “Ferme de...” (“Farm of...”) on one side, affixed when the cheese is placed in the mould.’





The inscriptions on these stamps show that the cheese was made on the farm.






—


The following sentences have been added:

‘Identification marks and embossed stamps are distributed solely by the applicant group to all authorised producers. The group keeps an updated register of the allocation of identification marks, which may be consulted by the inspection bodies. The group will withdraw from the producer the identification marks and the stamps if notified by the inspection bodies that the producer’s authorisation has been suspended or revoked. Where products have to be downgraded, the identification marks are removed from the downgraded cheeses and any inscriptions including the name “Cantal” left by the stamp(s)are removed from the product, in accordance with the procedure provided for in the inspection plan.’





These provisions ensure that identification marks and stamps are distributed to all producers complying with the specification and that they are removed from producers whose authorisation to produce has been revoked or suspended by the inspection bodies. These provisions also help ensure that any identification marks and inscriptions including the name ‘Cantal’ left by the stamp(s) are removed from downgraded cheeses.






—


The following paragraph has been added: ‘As part of the checks on the specified features of the designation of origin, an analytical and organoleptic test is carried out to ensure the products submitted for examination are of high quality and possess the requisite typical characteristics. The test is carried out by random sampling on cheeses bearing the ripening indications “jeune”, “entre-deux” and “vieux”, respectively, in accordance with the procedures provided for in the inspection plan.’ This addition provides information on the procedure for inspecting the product and ensuring its compliance with the description of the designation of origin.




—   ‘Production method’ section

—   Milk production

Provisions on the conditions for rearing, managing and feeding the dairy herd have been inserted in order to record traditional practices:






—


The sentence ‘The milk used to make “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” cheese comes from holdings with an area equal to at least one hectare of utilised agricultural area per cow’ has been added to guarantee the extensive nature of the milk production, in line with the traditional production method in the geographical area.




The sentences ‘The term “cow” covers all dairy and suckler cows that have calved once and are present on the holding. UAA hectares are used solely to record the area used by the farmer for feeding all the animals present on the holding’ have been added to clarify the categories of cattle and the areas covered by the previous provision.






—


The following sentences have been added:






—


‘The dairy herd comprises all the dairy cows and replacement heifers present on the holding. Dairy cows are the lactating livestock and the livestock that have run dry, with the exception of cull cows being fattened. Heifers are the livestock that have been weaned but have not yet given birth.’










—


‘The entire dairy herd of a holding must fulfil the production conditions of the “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” designation of origin.’








These provisions identify precisely the livestock subject to the production conditions defined in the specification and thereby facilitate checks.






—


The following provisions have been added: ‘The milk used to make “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” cheese comes from dairy herds composed of cows and heifers born and bred in the geographical area. It is forbidden to introduce into the dairy herds cows or heifers born and/or bred outside the geographical area’.




The local breeds Salers and, to a lesser extent, Aubrac, which were used until the 1950s-1970s for the production of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’, are today mostly geared towards meat production, and their share in dairy production has fallen markedly. The majority of the dairy herd of the geographical area that is home to the ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ PDO consists of cows of the Prim’Holstein and Montbéliarde breeds. When the designation of origin was registered in accordance with Regulation (EC) No 1107/96, the specification did not contain any provisions on the cattle breeds authorised for the production of milk intended for the production of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’. Introducing an obligation whereby the dairy cows must be born and bred in the geographical area will make it easier to use animals that are adapted to the local environmental conditions, in particular to the harsh climate, the longer stabling period and the diet.
Furthermore, it has been added that ‘However, for health reasons or for the mountain breeds Brune, Simmental Française, Abondance, Aubrac and Tarentaise, only small numbers of which are kept in the geographical area and for which demand exceeds the supply authorised by the director of the National Institute of Origin and Quality, a derogation from the provisions in the three preceding paragraphs may be granted by the director of the Institute’. In other words, a derogation from the obligation for the dairy cows to be born and bred in the geographical area may be granted by the competent national authority for a specific period of time and for a well-justified reason, and only for certain breeds (Brune, Simmental Française, Abondance, Aubrac and Tarentaise), so that the producers in question are able to obtain animals of those breeds outside the geographical area if a sufficient number of animals are not available within the geographical area. The breeds concerned by this measure are currently present on certain holdings in the geographical area (in small numbers), and they are deemed well adapted to mountainous conditions, meaning that they are able to meet the requirements of the geographical environment even if not born in the geographical area or if bred partially outside the geographical area. Furthermore, cows benefiting from this measure are subject to the same production conditions as cows of other breeds, once they are on a holding producing ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’.






—


The following provisions have been added regarding the cows’ diet:

‘The dairy herd’s basic ration consists exclusively of coarse fodder from the geographical area.’


‘Pasture grass and/or grass silage/hay accounts for at least 70 % of the dry matter in the daily basic ration of the dairy herd.’


‘When grass is available, daily grazing is mandatory for the lactating cows as soon as the weather allows. During the minimum annual grazing period of 120 days, grazing must account for at least 70 % of the basic ration, expressed as a quantity of dry matter per cow and per day.’


‘Green feeding of the dairy herd is prohibited.’


‘Rearing the dairy herd without a grazing area is prohibited.’


‘During the period when grazing does not cover at least 70 % of the basic rations, each lactating dairy cow receives at least 5 kg of dry matter of hay per day. “Hay” means cut and dried grass with a dry matter content above 80 %.’


‘For dairy cows, the amount of supplementary feed with a dry matter content above 85% may not exceed 1,800 kg gross per dairy cow and calendar year. For replacement heifers, the amount of supplementary feed may not exceed an average of 30% of the total ration over the year, expressed as dry matter.’





These provisions help ensure that at least 70 % of the feed of the dairy cows comes from the geographical area and confirm the importance of fresh grass or grass silage/hay in the dairy herd’s diet.
For these same reasons, the paragraphs ‘The basic ration of the dairy herd is made up exclusively of coarse fodder from the geographical area, with pasture grass and/or grass silage/hay accounting for at least 70 % of the dry matter. During the minimum annual grazing period of 120 days, grazing of lactating cows must account for at least 70 % of the basic ration, expressed as a quantity of dry matter per cow and per day’ and ‘For dairy cows, the amount of supplementary feed with a dry matter content above 85 % may not exceed 1,800 kg gross per dairy cow and calendar year’ have been added to point 3.3 of the Single Document.
It has also been added to the Single Document that ‘Compliance with these provisions means that at least 70 % of the dairy cows’ feed comes from the geographical area. It may not be possible to obtain certain feed from the geographical area due to the topography, altitude and climate’.






—


The following paragraphs have been added:

‘Grass preserved by silage and distributed to the dairy herd is made from pre-dried grass.’


‘Silage fodder is stored on a slab made of concrete or tar, while fermented fodder other than silage is stored on a surface made of concrete or stabilised sand before 1 November each year.’


‘Maize silage with a pH of 4,4 or higher or a dry matter content below 30 % may not be distributed to dairy cows.’


‘Grass silage with a pH of 4,4 or higher or a dry matter content below 25 % may not be distributed to dairy cows.’


‘The wrapped feed distributed to dairy cows must have a dry matter content above 50 %.’


‘A systematic analytic of this fodder is carried out before 1 November each year by an approved laboratory on the basis of samples coordinated by the applicant group.’

‘The following is banned from the dairy herd’s feed:






—


fodder preserved by silage that is more than 12 months old,










—


fodder with adverse effects on the smell or taste of the milk, such as leeks, cabbage, rapeseed, turnips and beet leaves.’





‘Enzymes and bacterial inoculants are the only additives authorised in silage.’





By introducing criteria relating to the harvesting, storage, pH and dry matter content of the fodder (including a systematic annual analysis), it is possible to guarantee the proper conservation and quality of the fodder given to the animals.






—


The supplementary feed authorised in the dairy herd’s diet is set out in a positive list in order to select the raw materials that are most compatible with a traditional diet for cattle and to facilitate checks on the feed.




Therefore the following paragraphs have been added:

‘Only the following supplementary feed is authorised in the basic ration of the dairy herd:






1.


Cereals: barley, maize, wheat, oat, rye and triticale.










2.


Cereal co-products: wheat bran and wheat feed, wheat and maize dregs, corn gluten feed, maize gluten, wheat gluten, maize germ cake and barley malt culms.










3.


Dehydrated and pelleted fodder: dehydrated lucerne.










4.


Whole protein and oil-protein seeds: soya, rapeseed, sunflower, flax, field beans, lupins and peas.










5.


Co-products of protein and oil-protein seeds: soya cake, rapeseed cake, sunflower cake, flax cake, soya oil, rapeseed oil and sunflower oil.










6.


Roots, tubers and their co-products: dehydrated beet pulp, molasses as a binder, with a maximum of 5 % of the compound feed taken into account in the dry matter content.










7.


Minerals: authorised minerals set out in the Annex to amended Decree 86-1037 implementing the Act of 1 August 1905 on misrepresentation and adulteration of products or services relating to products and substances for use in animal nutrition.










8.


Additives: authorised pursuant to Regulation (EC) No 1831/2003 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 22 September 2003 on additives for use in animal nutrition and in accordance with the following list:






—


emulsifiers










—


stabilisers










—


thickeners










—


gelling agents










—


preservatives










—


binders










—


anti-caking agents










—


anti-oxidants of natural origin










—


vitamins, provitamins and chemically well-defined substances having a similar effect










—


compounds of trace elements’










‘The only liquid feed authorised is whey from the holding.’

It has also been added that ‘The supplementary feed must have a dry matter content above 85 %, with the exception of liquid whey’ to make it easier to check the nature of the supplementary feed.
In the Single Document, the sentence ‘The authorised supplementary feed is specified in a positive list’ has been inserted in point 3.3.






—


Transgenic feed and crops are banned by the addition of the paragraph ‘Only plants, co-products and supplementary feed derived from non-transgenic products are authorised in the animal feed. Transgenic crops are prohibited in all areas of farms producing milk intended for processing into cheese with the d “Cantal”/ “Fourme de Cantal” designation of origin. This prohibition applies to all types of plant likely to be given as feed to animals on the farm and to all crops liable to contaminate such plants.’ The aim of these provisions is to guarantee the traditional character of the dairy herd’s diet.




The provision ‘Only plants, co-products and supplementary feed derived from non-transgenic products are authorised in the animal feed.’ has been added to point 3.3 of the Single Document.






—


The following paragraphs have been added to enable checks:

‘Compound feed is manufactured solely from the authorised raw materials listed above. Each bag and/or each delivery of compound feed is accompanied by a label containing, among other information, a list of the raw materials incorporated in the product and an indication that the share of molasses is less than 5 % of the compound feed , in dry matter.’


‘All of the harvested fodder and supplementary feed intended for the dairy herd is stored on identified sites.’











—


The following paragraphs have been added:
‘In order to protect the cows’ feed against any risk of contamination from pollutants in organic fertilisers, the following measures apply when spreading these fertilisers on the land of holdings producing cheese with the “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” designation of origin:






—


Origin: only organic fertilisers from the geographical area of the “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” designation of origin are authorised, and they include compost, manure, slurry, purin (of agricultural origin) as well as organic fertilisers of non-agricultural origin, such as sewage sludge (or by-products) and green waste.










—


Monitoring the quality of non-agricultural organic fertiliser: each application of non-agricultural organic fertiliser is subject to analytical monitoring on a batch-by-batch basis: lorry-load, tankful, etc. The analysis concerns pathogenic germs, heavy metals and organic trace compounds covered by the legislation.










—


Conditions for the spreading of non-agricultural organic fertiliser: spreading non-agricultural organic fertilisers is authorised on farmland, provided it is covered over immediately and done in compliance with the legislation in force regarding the specific restrictions (dates, protected areas, etc.), quantities, etc.










—


After spreading fertilisers on meadows and pastures intended for the feed of cows whose milk is to be used to produce cheeses with the “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” designation of origin, a latency period of at least eight weeks should be observed prior to any use. During this time, the areas are used for purposes other than the production of fodder relating to the “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” designation of origin.’








These provisions on the spreading of organic fertilisers have been added to protect the cow’s feed against any risk of contamination from pollutants.
—   Milking and storage of the milk







—


The following sentence has been added: ‘The functioning of the milking installation is checked each year and whenever necessary by an undertaking authorised to inspect such installations’ to help preserve the quality of the milk used to make the cheese.










—


The following paragraphs have been added to limit any spoilage of the milk and thus preserve the characteristics of the cheese:

‘In dairy production, after milking, the milk intended for the production of “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” cheese is stored in a cooling milk vat that complies with the mandatory standard. The milk may not be stored on the holding for more than 48 hours from the first milking.’


‘In farmhouse production, renneting takes place within 24 hours of the first milking. If the milk is not renneted immediately after milking, the milk is stored in a cooling milk vat that complies with the mandatory standard.’





—   Production







—


The sentence ‘The cheeses are made entirely of cow’s milk with rennet added’ has been removed from the ‘production method’ section, as this point has been added to the ‘product description’ section.










—


The following paragraphs have been added:

‘The milk may be used raw or may be heat-treated.’


‘If “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” cheese is made with raw milk, or if it is made on the farm, all of the renneted milk is raw.’


‘If heat-treated milk is used to produce the cheese, not more than 48 hours may elapse between the beginning of collection and the renneting of the milk. This period includes collection, deferred use of the milk, standardisation as well as the maturing period, which may not exceed 24 hours.’


‘If raw milk is used to produce dairy-made cheese, the milk is processed as soon as it is received at the dairy.’


‘Only milk that is produced by holdings fulfilling the conditions described and that is collected and stored separately from other milk may be used to make cheese with the “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” designation of origin.’


‘The standardisation of the protein content is prohibited, while the standardisation of the fat content is authorised so that it can be adjusted in the milk to obtain a minimum fat content in dry matter of 45 %.’





Together these provisions provide a better framework for the practices preceding the processing of the milk.






—


Several provision have been added on the use of treatments and additives for the cheeses:

‘In addition to the dairy raw materials, the only ingredients or production aids or additives authorised in the milk and during production are rennet, bacterial cultures, yeasts and moulds that are shown to be harmless, as well as salt and calcium chloride.’


‘Concentrating the milk by partially removing the water content before coagulation is not permitted.’


‘The dairy raw materials, partly finished products, curd and fresh cheese must not be conserved at a temperature below 0 °C.’


‘Fresh cheese and cheese undergoing ripening may not be conserved under a modified atmosphere.’





New techniques, some of which concern treatments and additives, such as microfiltration, partial concentration of milk or enzymes for the ripening process, may impact the characteristics of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’. In particular, certain enzyme additives appear to be incompatible with preservation of the key characteristics of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’. It was therefore necessary to add to the specification provisions corresponding to the current practices regarding the use of treatments and additives for milk and in cheese production to prevent future practices not covered by the provisions from adversely affecting the characteristics of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’.






—


The paragraph ‘The grains of curd are gathered together to form a truckle, which is pressed and left to mature. It is then ground and the mass of grains obtained is salted and moulded’




has been replaced by the following provisions to describe more precisely the different stages of production of the cheese:

‘The milk is renneted at a temperature of between 30 and 34 °C using rennet only.’


‘For “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” cheese made on the farm, the milk may be renneted in a wooden vat called a “gerle”, which may not be used for storage. However, during milking, the vat may be used as a recipient and for transporting the milk.’


‘The renneting time varies between 22 and 45 minutes. It is obtained by multiplying the renneting to cutting time by a coefficient of 1.5 to 3.’


‘The cutting and mixing is carried out manually or mechanically to obtain grains of curd whose size is between that of a grain of wheat and a corn kernel.’


‘The curd undergoes gradual pressing in a truckle press. The truckle, which is a consistent mass made from the curd, is turned over at least twice in the press. These operations consist in opening the truckle press and then cutting the truckle into blocks, which are stacked before the next pressing. Pressing makes it possible to obtain a truckle with a dry extract above 48% in less than four hours after renneting.’


‘After pressing, the truckle is matured for at least 10 hours in a room at a temperature of between 15 °C and 20 °C.’


‘The truckle, whose pH is between 5 and 5.4, is then ground and the mass is salted. This takes place at least 13 hours after the renneting.’


‘The temperature of the ground and salted truckle ranges from 17 to 21 °C. Dry salt is used for the salting. The truckle is kept in salt for at least one hour before being placed in a mould.’


‘The moulds are stacked one on the other, and the layers are pressed manually or mechanically.’


‘It is obligatory to use the “Cantal”/ “Fourme de Cantal” mould. The mould is an upright cylinder with flat bottoms that form a rounded edge not higher than 20 mm with the cylinder walls. The central part of the mould consists of one piece.’


‘The pressing is carried out gradually, either vertically or horizontally. The minimum pressing period is 12 hours for the small cheeses and 18 hours for the large cheeses.’

By providing much more detailed information on the production operations, it is possible to preserve the quality of the cheeses and the know-how of the cheesemakers.
—   Ripening period







—


The sentence ‘The ripening period is calculated from the renneting date’ has been added after the provision ‘The cheese is ripened for at least 30 days’. This sentence has been added to define a rule for calculating the ripening period, which is useful information for the checks.










—


Provisions describing the ripening conditions and the handling of the cheeses have been added:

‘The cheeses are ripened in premises with a minimum humidity level of 95 % and a temperature of between 6 °C and 12 °C. The cheeses are regularly massaged or brushed and turned over to obtain an even crust.’


‘Ripening under a film is prohibited.’





These additions contain provisions on traditional ripening rules.






—


The following paragraphs have been added, in line with practice:

‘Cheeses with a ripening period of 61 days to 89 days after renneting or of 211 days to 239 days after renneting must remain on sites that are authorised for the ripening of “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” cheeses. They may only be sold to an authorised undertaking, and solely under the designation “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal”.’


‘The indication is changed if, and only if, the product is kept in the ripening conditions provided for above on one or several sites authorised for the ripening of “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal”. A transfer from one authorised site to another authorised site, whether or not it is operated by the same undertaking, does not constitute a breach of the ripening conditions.’





‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ cheeses may not be marketed to the final consumer or to undertakings that do not engage in the ripening of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ until one of the three ripening stages defined above, i.e. ‘jeune’, ‘entre-deux’ or ‘vieux’, and this must be done using the corresponding ripening indication. These different ripening stages are separated by latency periods (first between 61 and 89 days, then between 211 and 239 days) during which the cheeses continue to ripen in order to obtain the characteristics typical of each ripening stage. During the latency periods, the cheeses may not be sold to the final consumer or to undertakings that are not authorised to ripen ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’. However, they may be transferred from a site authorised for the ripening of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ to another authorised site, whether or not it is operated by the same undertaking, which will continue to ripen the cheese under the conditions described above until one of the specified ripening stages has been reached and the cheese may be marketed for consumption accordingly, using the appropriate classification. When moving products between authorised sites, cheeses ripened for 61 to 89 days or from 211 to 239 days are called ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ without any indication of the ripening stage. They are not available for sale to the consumer.






—


It has been added that ‘The product receives its final name upon leaving the cellar of an authorised site prior to being marketed to the consumer or to a distributor that is not eligible for the designation of origin for ripening purposes’. This provisions supplements previous provisions by defining the moment when the product receives its final name, which includes a reference to the ripening stage (‘jeune’, ‘entre-deux’ or ‘vieux’).




—   ‘Link with the geographical area’ heading

The ‘History’ and ‘Link with the geographical area’ sections of the current specification are re-written in their entirety in point 6 of the specification, ‘Elements justifying the link with the geographical area’, to better highlight the link between ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ and its geographical area without making any substantive changes to the link.
This section is introduced by two paragraphs specifying the basis for the link to the geographical origin:

‘“Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” is a large cow’s milk cheese well suited for keeping, with a paste that is pressed twice and salted. Its texture, crust and taste develop as ripening progresses.
The harsh climate, the altitude and the topography of the geographical area, which is prime grassland, have resulted in special know-how relating to the management of the herds and the processing and ripening of the cheese that confer these characteristics on “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal”.’

The section is then divided into three parts:






—


The part ‘specificity of the geographical area’ describes the natural factors by underlining the harshness of this mid-range mountain territory, which is why it is prime grassland, as well as the human factors by referring to the ancient origins of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ and explaining how the product’s history determined the production techniques, which focus on conserving the product.










—


The part ‘specificity of the product’ emphasise the particular characteristics of the product (the large size, a paste that is pressed twice and salted, the ripening period, changes in the organoleptic characteristics as ripening progresses).










—


Finally, the point ‘causal link’ explains the interactions between the natural and human factors and the product. The reference to the ‘autochthonous dairy breeds Salers and Aubrac’ has been removed, because the share of these breeds in dairy production has fallen markedly, as indicated above, and therefore these breeds are used very little for the production of milk used to make ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’.




For the reasons mentioned above, points 5(d) on the history and 5(f) on the link in the summary sheet have been replaced by point 5 of the Single Document.
—   ‘Labelling’ section







—


The phrase ‘The labelling must include the designation of origin’ has been replaced by the following paragraph in order to supplement the information provided to the consumer and make sure the name of the designation, the ripening information and the adjective ‘small’ for the small cheeses are clearly legible:
‘The labelling of cheeses with the “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” designation of origin must bear:






—


the name of the designation of origin;










—


the words “jeune”, “entre-deux” or “vieux”;










—


the adjective “small” for the small cheeses, as laid down in the chapter “Product description”;




All of this information is written in characters at least two-thirds the size of the largest characters on the label.






—


the European Union’s PDO symbol, in the same visual field as the name of the designation of origin;










—


the words “produced (by)...” and “ripened by...”.’








This paragraph is also inserted under point 3.6 of the Single Document.






—


The provision in the current specification and in point 5(h) of the summary sheet, on the requirement to use the words ‘Appellation d’Origine’ in conjunction with the use of the designation ‘Fourme de Cantal’, has been removed; the provisions of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 apply.










—


The sentence ‘The INAO logo must be affixed to the product and include the name of the designation, the words “controlled designation of origin” and the INAO acronym’ has been removed following changes to national legislation. Likewise, the sentence ‘Requirement to carry the logo bearing the initials INAO, the words “Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée” and the product designation’ in point 5(h) of the summary sheet has been deleted.










—


The following paragraph has been added:
‘Irrespective of the regulatory terms applicable to all cheeses, the use of any adjective or other words accompanying the designation of origin is prohibited in labelling, advertising, communication, invoices and commercial documents, with the exception of:






—


specific brand names or trademarks;










—


the words “ripened on the farm”, “ripened in a tunnel”, “produced from milk obtained from cows of the Salers breed” (for cheeses made entirely from milk from cows of the Salers breed), “produced (by)...” and “ripened by...”, in characters not larger than two-thirds the size of the name of the “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” designation of origin;










—


the ripening terms “jeune”, “entre-deux” or “vieux”;










—


the adjective “small” for small “Cantal”/“Fourme de Cantal” cheeses, as laid down in the “Product description” section;










—


Where applicable if the cheese is cut, information on the physical condition of the cheese or the mechanical treatment it has undergone.’








In this positive list it is possible to indicate labelling references that may be included in the labelling, advertising, communication, invoices or commercial documents of the designation of origin, irrespective of the regulatory terms applicable to all cheeses, in order to improve the clarity of the text for consumers and make checks easier. In particular, it is specified that the words ‘produced from milk obtained from cows of the Salers breed’ may only be included if the cheeses are made entirely from milk from cows of the Salers breed.
This paragraph is also inserted under point 3.6 of the Single Document.






—


The sentence ‘The ripening period may be specified in months as of 120 days, i.e. from the fourth month after renneting’ has been added so that the operator can decide whether to indicate the ripening period in days or months as of the 4th month, but within a clear framework. This sentence has also been added under point 3.6 of the Single Document.




—   Other







—


The contact details of the INAO have been updated in the ‘Responsible body in the Member State’ section.










—


In the ‘Applicant group’ section:






—


the address of the group has been updated and supplemented with the group’s telephone numbers and email addresses;










—


the composition of the group has been supplemented with a reference to the ripeners: ‘Producers, processors, ripeners’ replaces ‘Producers and processors’. Ripeners should indeed be included among the operators involved in making the product.














—


In the ‘References to the inspection body’ section, the name and contact details of the inspection bodies have been changed and updated. In other words, the contact details of the authorities responsible for inspections are indicated: they consist of the National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO) and the Directorate-General for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Prevention (DGCCRF), which replace a reference to a note presenting obsolete accreditation procedures for dairy products.




It has been added that ‘In accordance with the provisions of Article 37 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012, verification of compliance with the specification, before placing the product on the market, is carried out by a product certification body whose name and contact details are available on the INAO’s website and in the European Commission’s database’. With the introduction of this provision, it will not be necessary to amend the specification if the inspection body changes.






—


In the ‘National requirements’ section, a table setting out the main points to be checked, their reference values and their evaluation methods has been added, and the reference to the Decree of 29 December 1986 has been removed, in accordance with the national regulations in force.




SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘CANTAL’/‘FOURME DE CANTAL’


EU No: PDO-FR-0113-AM02 – 30 January 2019


PDO (X)PGI ( )

1.   Name(s)

‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’
2.   Member State or third country

France
3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product

Class 1.3 Cheeses
3.2.   Description of product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ is a cheese with a dry crust whose thickness increases as the cheese ripens. It is made entirely of cow’s milk with rennet added and has a hard, uncooked paste that is pressed twice, with grinding of the curds between the first and second pressing. The cheese mass is salted, and the total dry extract contains at least 45 per cent fat. The minimum dry extract is 57 % at the end of the minimum ripening period for ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’, or 30 days from the renneting date.
‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ is in the form of a slightly bulging wheel, with rounded edges and no irregularities:






—


weighing either 35 to 45 kg, when made in moulds of 36 to 42 cm in diameter (large size);










—


or weighing 8 to 10 kg, when made in moulds of 20 to 22 cm in diameter (small size).




‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ cheeses bear the words ‘jeune’, ‘entre-deux’ or ‘vieux’, depending on the ripening period and the dry extract, and they are defined as follows:






—


‘Jeune’: the ripening period ranges from a minimum of 30 days to a maximum of 60 days, and the dry extract is at least 57 %;










—


‘Entre-deux’: the ripening period ranges from a minimum of 90 days to a maximum of 210 days, and the dry extract is at least 58 %;










—


‘Vieux’: the ripening period is a minimum of 240 days and the dry extract at least 60 %.




The ripening period is calculated from the renneting date.
The hard paste, ranging in colour from ivory to dark yellow, is malleable for the younger cheeses and may become slightly crumbly for the more mature cheeses.
The dry crust changes gradually from greyish white to golden and then brown, and it may be speckled with ochre to brown spots.
The taste, which is milky and may be slightly acidic at the beginning of ripening, gradually richens until it becomes fruity, intense and lasting.
3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The basic ration of the dairy herd is made up exclusively of coarse fodder from the geographical area, with pasture grass and/or grass silage/hay accounting for at least 70 % of the dry matter. During the minimum annual grazing period of 120 days, grazing of lactating cows must account for at least 70 % of the basic ration, expressed as a quantity of dry matter per cow and per day.
For dairy cows, the amount of supplementary feed with a dry matter content above 85 % may not exceed 1 800 kg gross per dairy cow and calendar year. The authorised supplementary feed is specified in a positive list.
Compliance with these provisions means that at least 70 % of the dairy cows’ feed comes from the geographical area. It may not be possible to obtain certain feed from the geographical area due to the topography, altitude and climate.
Only plants, co-products and supplementary feed derived from non-transgenic products are authorised in the animal feed.
3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

The milk is produced and the cheeses manufactured and ripened in the geographical area.
3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ PDO cheese may be presented in portions or grated. With the exception of individual portions of less than 70 g, cubes and grated cheese, it is obligatory to keep part of the crust.
It is prohibited to mix grated cheese obtained from ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ cheeses bearing different ripening information.
3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

The labelling of cheeses with the ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ designation of origin must bear:






—


the name of the designation of origin;










—


the words ‘jeune’, ‘entre-deux’ or ‘vieux’;










—


the adjective ‘small’ for the small cheeses, as laid down in the ‘Product description’ section;




All of this information is written in characters at least two-thirds the size of the largest characters on the label.






—


the European Union’s PDO symbol in the same visual field as the name of the designation of origin;










—


the words ‘produced (by)...’ and ‘ripened by...’.




Irrespective of the regulatory terms applicable to all cheeses, the use of any adjective or other words accompanying the designation of origin is prohibited in labelling, advertising, communication, invoices and commercial documents, with the exception of:






—


specific brand names or trademarks;










—


the words ‘ripened on the farm’, ‘ripened in a tunnel’, ‘produced from milk obtained from cows of the Salers breed’ (for cheeses made entirely from milk from cows of the Salers breed), ‘produced (by)...’ and ‘ripened by...’, in characters not larger than two-thirds the size of the name of the ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ designation of origin;










—


the ripening terms ‘jeune’, ‘entre-deux’ or ‘vieux’;










—


the adjective ‘small’ for small ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ cheeses, as laid down in point 3.2;










—


Where applicable if the cheese is cut, information on the physical condition of the cheese or the mechanical treatment it has undergone.




The ripening period may be specified in months as of 120 days, i.e. the fourth month after renneting.
4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

The geographical area covers the territory of the following municipalities or parts of municipalities:
Department of Aveyron: Brommat, Lacroix-Barrez, Mur-de-Barrez, Taussac and Thérondels.
Department of Cantal: All municipalities with the exception of Anterrieux, Chaudes-Aigues, Deux-Verges, Espinasse, Jabrun, Lieutades, Saint-Rémy-de-Chaudes-Aigues, Saint-Urcize and Trinitat (La).
Department of Corrèze: Auriac, Latronche, Neuvic, Pandrignes (in part), Rilhac-Xaintrie, Saint-Julien-aux-Bois, Saint-Privat and Soursac.
Department of Haute-Loire: Ally and Lubilhac.
Department of Puy-de-Dôme: Anzat-le-Luguet, Besse-et-Saint-Anastaise, Bourboule (La), Chambon-sur-Lac, Chastreix, Compains, Égliseneuve-d’Entraigues, Espinchal, Godivelle (La), Laqueuille, Mazoires, Mont-Dore, Murat-le-Quaire, Picherande, Roche-Charles-la-Mayrand, Saint-Alyre-ès-Montagne, Saint-Donat, Saint-Genès-Champespe, Saint-Pierre-Colamine, Saint-Sauves-d’Auvergne, Saint-Victor-la-Rivière, Sayat (in part), Tauves, Tour-d’Auvergne (La) and Valbeleix.
5.   Link with the geographical area

‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ is a large cow’s milk cheese fit for storage, with a paste that is pressed twice and salted. Its texture, crust and taste develop as ripening progresses.
The harsh climate, the altitude and the topography of the geographical area, which is prime grassland, have resulted in special know-how relating to the management of the herds and the processing and ripening of the cheese that confer these characteristics on ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’.
The geographical area of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ cheese covers most of the department of the same name as well as a few municipalities in the bordering departments of Puy-de-Dôme, Corrèze, Aveyron and Haute-Loire.
It is a cool and humid, rather harsh, mid-range mountain environment. It has a minimum altitude of 500 m and/or significant rises and drops with a steepness of over 15 %, a continental climate largely subject to oceanic influences, with significant annual rainfall of at least 700 mm. The area centres around the volcanic zone of the Monts du Cantal massif, whose highest point is the Plomb du Cantal at 1 858 m. On the periphery the area extends over the Hercynian base, which is made up of magmatic and metamorphic rocks and, here and there, small sedimentary basins between the mountains.
The nature of the soils, the altitude, the topography and the climate combined mean that the municipalities of the geographical area are prime grassland.
The current husbandry practices take advantage of this resource to produce milk intended for the production of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’. Grazing of lactating cows is obligatory for part of the year, and the dairy herd’s basic ration consists exclusively of coarse fodder from the geographical area, with grass accounting for at least 70 %. The amount of supplementary feed is restricted.
There are a number of references to the long history of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’, a product that is part of the identity of the historical community of Haute-Auvergne and the department of Cantal. Its reputation was highlighted by16th and 17th century authors. In the 18th century, the famous Encyclopédie of Diderot and Alembert featured engravings showing how this cheese is made. ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ was recognised as an Appellation d’Origine by the Saint-Flour civil court’s ruling of 17 May 1956 and as an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée by a decree of 19 February 1980.
Originally ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ was a cheese made from the milk of large herds that were led to the pastures of the Mounts of Cantal from May to October. The large size of the herd and the ample grass resources available at that time of the year made it possible to produce the quantity of milk necessary to make this large cheese. The cheeses were produced and stored in herdsmen’s cottages called ‘burons’ - low stone structures where the farmers also lived - and brought down into the valleys in the autumn, where they were sold to trading companies operating on various markets. These companies were responsible for continuing to ripen the cheeses and for dispatching them. A number of archives refer to ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ as an exchange product between wine-growing areas in southern France and Haute Auvergne. In other words, right from the start, specific production techniques were needed to ensure the conservation of the product, so that it could be transported over long distances and consumed throughout the year. ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ was made to be a cheese that keeps well.
From the end of the 19th century, production gradually moved out of burons and into dairies. Milk was collected from a number of holdings, allowing ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ to be produced all year round, and the geographical area was extended to cover the foothills of the Mounts of Cantal. However, most production units established back then did not have the technical expertise, premises and capital required to ripen the cheeses, which was therefore entrusted to specialised ripeners.
These ripeners built up expertise in maturing cheese by managing the ambient conditions (cool and damp cellars) and the handling of the cheeses (rubbing, brushing and turning regularly), and this allowed them to market ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ at different ripening stages, which today are called ‘jeune’, ‘entre-deux’ and ‘vieux’.
The current production techniques follow from old, empirically-derived techniques that cattle farmers applied when making cheese in burons, so that they could adjust the parameters to produce a cheese that would keep well. For example, pressing the curd in a traditional tool, the truckle press, helps to drain it and increases the dry extract. Long maturation of the truckle enables acidification. Grinding the truckle between the first and second pressing gives the paste of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ its texture. The cheese mass is salted evenly throughout to prepare for the ripening process. The second pressing shapes the cheese.
‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’ is a large cow’s milk cheese, with a paste that is pressed twice and salted. Cheeses bearing the word ‘jeune’ are ripened for 30 to 60 days after renneting and have a dry extract of at least 57 %. Cheeses bearing the words ‘entre-deux’ and ‘vieux’ are ripened for 90 to 210 days and at least 240 days, respectively, and have respective dry extracts of at least 58 % and 60 %.
The paste is malleable for the younger cheeses and may become slightly crumbly for the more mature cheeses. The dry crust changes gradually from greyish white to golden and then brown, and it may be speckled with ochre to brown spots. The taste, which is milky and may be slightly acidic at the beginning of ripening, gradually richens until it becomes fruity, intense and lasting.
The combination of a harsh and rainy climate and a hilly terrain, which made the geographical area prime grassland, guided agricultural production towards dairy cattle farming, which applies practices that take advantage of the grass resources of the geographical area to produce milk intended for the production of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’.
The harsh climate, difficulties of access caused by the topography and the wintry weather, and the high milk production fostered the development of shared expertise in the production of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’, which is a large, easily recognisable, long-lasting cheese that constituted a reserve of food that was always available and a product that could be traded and transported over long distances.
The production techniques used today (double pressing, long acidification, salting the cheese mass) are the fruit of specific and traditional know-how that makes it possible to sell this cheese at different ripening stages and to conserve it for long periods of time because of its high dry extract.
The specific characteristics of ‘Cantal’/‘Fourme de Cantal’, in particular its crust, the texture of its paste and its flavour, develop as it matures, thanks to the ambient conditions and the ripeners’ expertise and practices.

Reference to publication of the specification

(the second subparagraph of Article 6(1) of this Regulation)
https://info.agriculture.gouv.fr/gedei/site/bo-agri/document_administratif-a68e7228-d4ac-4896-beb3-7272baf7b6e6


(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.