Publication of an amendment application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
Date: 2016-05-18
Institutions: European Commission
Subjects: France, Nord-Pas-de-Calais, Picardy, consumer information, designation of origin, labelling, product designation, quality control of agricultural products, soft cheese








C_2016176EN.01002101.xml










18.5.2016   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 176/21





Publication of an amendment application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
(2016/C 176/08)
This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1).
APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF AN AMENDMENT TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION OF A PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN/PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION WHICH IS NOT MINOR

Application for approval of an amendment in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012


‘MAROILLES’/‘MAROLLES’


EU No: FR-PDO-0217-01378 — 28.9.2015


PDO ( X ) PGI ( )

1.   Applicant group and legitimate interest






Syndicat du Maroilles (Maroilles syndicate)




148, avenue du Général de Gaulle




02 260 La Capelle




FRANCE




Tel. +33 323975757




Fax +33 323975758




E-mail: sfam@uriane.com




The group is made up of milk producers, farmers, processors and maturers of ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’. It therefore has a legitimate right to propose the amendment.
2.   Member State or Third Country

France
3.   Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)








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Name of product




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Description of product




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Geographical area




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Proof of origin




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Method of production




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Link




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Labelling




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Other: Contact details of the inspection bodies, national requirements




4.   Type of amendment(s)








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Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI not to be qualified as minor within the meaning of the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012




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Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI for which a Single Document (or equivalent) has not been published and which cannot be qualified as minor within the meaning of the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012




5.   Amendment(s)


Heading ‘Description of product’

The nature of the raw material (exclusively from cow's milk) is indicated in this heading since it was considered that it constituted an element of the description of the product. Therefore this point is moved from the heading ‘Method of production’ to the heading ‘Description of product’.
The descriptors are set out in more detail to better identify the product:






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product appearance: may be slightly tapered, presence on the sides of marks from the maturation screens,










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appearance of the rind: homogeneous in colour and more or less moist,










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centripetal ripening (from the outside in),










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appearance of the paste: the words ‘unctuous and rich’ and ‘homogeneous’ are deleted since they are vague and imprecise. The acceptable colours are specified (the colour of the paste may vary from white to cream). The cheese has small mechanical and fermentation openings, is soft to the touch, with a markedly firmer core that softens with a longer maturation process,










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organoleptic criteria: a strong smell of cellar, damp brick and undergrowth, slightly ammoniac, and a slightly salty milky taste with notes of acidity in the paste and a slight bitterness, flavours of curd (at the end of the minimum maturation period), hazelnut and notes of alliums. If the maturation process is prolonged, the taste becomes stronger and more pronounced.




The analytical criteria (fat and dry matter) are specified: The fat content is expressed in grams per 100 grams of cheese after total desiccation (instead of a percentage), and the dry matter content is specified: the ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ contains at least 50 grams of dry matter (DM) per 100 grams of cheese. It is also specified that the ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ contains at least 22,5 grams of fat per 100 grams of cheese.
As the maturation times differ for the different formats, it was considered that they constitute an element of the description of the product. These elements are therefore moved from the heading ‘Method of production’ to the heading ‘Description of product’. In addition, a transcription error in the national text for the previous registered specification is corrected (this error was not present in the summary or in the summary of the registered specification): the minimum maturation period for ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ is not 4 but 5 weeks or 35 days. Furthermore, the maturation times for the Mignon and Quart formats are extended by 7 days to 28 and 21 days respectively, in line with the actual practices. Such maturation periods allow the product to better express its organoleptic characteristics and its aromatic diversity.
In order to clarify the description of the different formats of cheese, each format — in addition to the internal dimensions of the moulds — is defined by the total weight of dry matter and the length of the maturation period (which for more precision is calculated from the date of renneting and is expressed in days instead of length in weeks):






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‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ 360 grams, 35 days,










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‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ of the Sorbais variety: 270 grams, 28 days,










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‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ of the Mignon variety: 180 grams, 28 days,










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‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ of the Quart variety: 90 grams, 21 days.




Furthermore, in order to make the checks more objective, the dimensions of the cheeses are now expressed in terms of the internal dimensions of the moulds. The dimensions of the cheeses sometimes proved to be inaccurate due to the deformation of the cheeses.

Heading ‘Evidence that the product originates from the geographical area’

The cheesemakers' obligations as regards declarations have been specified. These amendments are linked to changes in national rules and legislation. It is planned to identify the operators with a view to accrediting on the basis of their ability to meet the requirements of the specification, as well as the required declarations regarding knowledge, monitoring and checks on products intended to be marketed with the designation of origin.

Heading ‘Description of the method of production’


Production of the milk — Feed for the dairy cows

The term ‘dairy cows’ is defined (lactating cows and dry cows). This definition is intended to clarify which animals are referred to when the term ‘dairy cows’ is used in the specification, to avoid any confusion and facilitate checks.
—   Pasture land
The central role of grazing, identified as an important aspect of the link with the geographical area, is affirmed by fixing the minimum annual grazing period at 170 days.
The minimum area of grass available per dairy cow is 30 ares, of which at least 15 ares are grazed and the additional 15 ares correspond to either grazed land or green feeding. These area requirements make it possible to ensure a significant share of grass in the dairy cows' feed and to take account of the parcelling up of holdings and herd size, with sufficient accessible land not always available to achieve the 30 ares per dairy cow.
In order to take into account the impact of the grassland's diverse flora on the aromatic richness of the product, the hedgerow nature of the holdings in the geographical area which produce the milk for making ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ is affirmed:






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90 linear metres of hedgerow per hectare of principal forage area; a hedge being defined as consisting mainly of broadleaves.
The hedgerows play a role in the preservation of pastures by insulating the grassland, by protecting it against sudden changes in temperature, maintaining humidity and promoting the wealth of flora that affects the quality of the milk. The hedgerows also provide the dairy cows with shelter from the wind and sun.










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Ratio of at least 0,65 between the total permanent and temporary grassland and the principal forage area, with the aim of guaranteeing that at least two thirds of the principal forage area consists of permanent or temporary grassland.
Some operators who lodged an objection to one or other of these provisions (15 ares of grazing per dairy cow, 90 linear metres of hedgerow per hectare, minimum ratio of 0,65) during the period for objections at national level and meet the conditions of Article 15(4) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 have been allowed a transitional period until 30 June 2020.




—   Dairy cows' rations
As an indication of the grass-based character of the feed, the proportion of grass in the feed ration (calculated on the dry matter of coarse fodder) is on average at least 65 % in the grazing period and is never less than 25 %. It is specified that this share of grass may be grazed grass, green fodder or given in the form of stored grass with over 35 % dry matter.
The coarse fodders authorised are listed. They correspond to those traditionally used in the geographical area and account for at least 60 % of the dry matter of the total daily ration.
The amount of concentrated feed is limited to 1 800 kg of dry matter per dairy cow per year. The specification includes a list of the authorised components in these feeds.
—   Dietary autonomy
To strengthen the link with the geographical area, it is specified that at least 80 % of the dry matter of the coarse fodder consumed annually per dairy cow comes from the geographical area.

The production of the cheese

A section is added to this part to describe the technological itinerary of ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’. It aims to clarify which practices reflect the know-how of operators while regulating the target values in order to ensure the specific characteristics of the product.
—   The milk used
To prevent any other milk processing practices, the approved milk processing practices are specified: raw, thermised or pasteurised. Only heat treatments are authorised.
To respect the traditional method of production, particularly the use of Brevibacterium linens (red culture) to give the rind its colour, all use of colorants is forbidden. It is also noted that the step of skimming milk is permitted but that the homogenisation of proteins is forbidden: the adjustment of the composition of the milk is limited to skimming.
—   Processing
The period between the first milking and the start of production, which corresponds to the seeding with enzymes, is set at 72 hours, in order to limit the deterioration in the quality of the milk.
The technological itinerary before renneting is described in line with current practices: acidification phase with predominantly mesophilic lactic cultures and the option to seed milk with ripening-specific flora.
The target values for renneting (acidity between 18 and 24 °D, milk temperature between 32 and 38 °C) are stipulated, as they help to describe the technological itinerary of the product.
The nature of the rennet is specified. This comes from the calf whey, so rennet of vegetable or microbial origin is prohibited. The doses used are also stipulated: 18 to 30 ml for 100 l of milk, for a rennet extract of 520 g/l of chymosin.
The words ‘The curd is separated and not washed’ are deleted and replaced for more accuracy:






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the words ‘not washed’ are replaced by the words ‘technical removal of lactose prohibited’,










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the word ‘divided’ is replaced by ‘pressing into cubes’, which is a more accurate description, in respect of the know-how, of the technique used by the operators. It is also indicated that the pressing takes place ‘before moulding’.




The word ‘spontaneous’ qualifying the drainage is deleted and replaced more accurately by ‘drainage in the mould (…)’. The minimum interval between the moulding and the removal from the moulds is 16 hours, during which it must be turned at least 3 times, in a room where the temperature is not less than 16 °C. These target values correspond to current practices concerning the draining process.
The salting stage is also better described:






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‘dry salt’ is deleted and replaced by the correct term ‘dry salting’ which describes the salting technique and not the nature of the salt,










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the wording of the registered specification could suggest that there are two phases in the salting stage, but in fact operators practise different methods, namely: ‘dry salting; dry salting and in brine; or in brine only’.




In order to complete the description of the technical itinerary before maturation, the duration of the draining/leavening phase before transfer to the maturing cellar is defined: a minimum of 48 hours. In accordance with custom, it is specified that this phase is carried out in a dedicated room where this first phase of de-acidification of the cheese's surface can be properly managed through the growth of yeasts and moulds, which determines the success of the second phase of maturation with the development of the red culture.

Maturation

In order to regulate the maturation conditions that contribute to the specificity of the product:






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the coatings of the maturation cellars are described: exposed brick or stone, or hygienically inert materials,










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the maturation conditions are defined in accordance with current practices: minimum moisture content of 90 % and temperatures ranging between 9 °C and 16 °C,










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the treatments given to the cheeses are described: at least one brushing, then depending on the product's development, brushing and/or washing with a salt solution and possible seeding with surface cultures, mainly consisting of Brevibacterium linens. The provision ‘The rind is washed several times in salt water’ is deleted because the surface treatments are described in more detail.




The provision ‘Depending on the format of the cheese, maturation varies from at least two weeks for the small cheeses, to four weeks minimum.’ is deleted because the maturation period for each format is specified in Chapter 2 ‘Description of the product’.
The provision ‘The orange colour acquired during this maturation process is due entirely to the natural red cultures’ is deleted as under the point ‘Cheese production — milk used’ it is stated that colorants are prohibited and the ‘natural red cultures’ are also identified (‘Brevibacterium linens’).

Heading ‘Labelling’

The reference to the INAO logo has been deleted and replaced by the obligation to affix the European Union ‘PDO’ symbol.
It is specified that, irrespective of the regulatory references applicable to all cheeses, the use of any qualifying term or other reference accompanying the designation of origin is prohibited, with the exception of trademarks or any additional references, which must be used in accordance with the conditions laid down under the heading ‘Description of product’.

Heading ‘Other’

References to the inspection body: the name and the contact details of the official bodies have been updated.
National requirements: In accordance with the abovementioned national reform of the inspection system for designations of origin, a table has been added which sets out the main points to be checked and the relevant evaluation method to be used.
SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘MAROILLES’/‘MAROLLES’


EU No: FR-PDO-0217-01378 — 28.9.2015


PDO ( X ) PGI ( )

1.   Denominations

‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’
2.   Member State or Third Country

France
3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product

Class 1.3. Cheeses
3.2.   Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

The ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ is a cheese made exclusively from cow's milk, with a soft paste and a rind washed with a homogeneous red-orange colour, in a square and sometimes slightly tapered form. Marks from screens are visible on the sides. The paste of the cheese is white to cream in colour, has small mechanical and fermentation openings, it is soft to the touch.
The ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ is a square with sides of 12,5 to 13 cm (internal dimension of moulds) and comes in different forms with the additional references: Sorbais: 12 to 12,5 cm; Mignon: 11 to 11,5 cm and Quart: 8 to 8,5 cm.
The minimum ripening period, calculated from the renneting date, is:






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35 days for the ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’,










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28 days for the ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ of the Sorbais variety and for ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ of the Mignon variety,










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21 days for the ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ of the Quart variety.




It contains a minimum of 45 g of fat per 100 g of cheese after total desiccation and at least 50 g DM per 100 g of cheese, or at least 22,5 g of fat per 100 g of cheese.
The ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ has a strong smell of cellar, damp brick and undergrowth, slightly ammoniac, and a slightly salty milky taste with an acidity in the paste and a slight bitterness, flavours of curd (at the end of the minimum ripening duration), hazelnut and notes of alliums. If the maturing process is prolonged, its taste becomes stronger and more pronounced.
3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The dairy cows graze for at least 170 days per year and have a minimum 30 ares per cow, of which at least 15 ares are grazed; the supplementary ares may be in the form of harvested grass.
During the grazing period, the grass accounts for at least 65 % on average of the dry matter of the coarse fodder. Over the year, the proportion of grass in the daily ration may not be less than 25 % of the dry matter of the coarse fodder.
Any additional supply of concentrated feed is limited to 1 800 kg of dry matter per dairy cow per year.
At least 80 % of the dry matter of coarse fodder comes from the geographical area. The other raw materials for the dairy cow feed may also come from the area, particularly if the holding has crops. However, because of the small size of the geographical area and the fact that the farms do not produce all these raw materials, it is not required that the concentrated feed must come from the geographical area. For an estimated annual consumption of 7 000 kg of dry matter per dairy cow, of which 1 800 kg is from concentrates, the share of feed originating in the geographical area is at least 59 %.
3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

The production of the milk and the production and maturation of the cheese must take place in the geographical area described in paragraph 4 of the single document.
3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

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3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

The labelling must include the designation of origin in characters at least two thirds the size of the largest characters used on the label and display the European Union PDO symbol.
The additional references, where applicable, must appear in proximity to the name of the designation of origin.
4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

Department of Nord: Aibes, Anor, Aulnoye-Aymeries, Avesnelles, Avesnes-sur-Helpe, Bachant, Baives, Bas-Lieu, Bazuel, Beaufort, Beaurepaire-sur-Sambre, Beaurieux, Bérelles, Berlaimont, Beugnies, Boulogne-sur-Helpe, Bousignies-sur-Roc, Cartignies, Catillon-sur-Sambre, Choisies, Clairfayts, Cousolre, Damousies, Dimechaux, Dimont, Dompierre-sur-Helpe, Dourlers, Eccles, Eclaibes, Ecuélin, Eppe-Sauvage, Étroeungt, Felleries, Féron, Flaumont-, Floursies, Floyon, Fontaine-au-Bois, Fourmies, Glageon, Grand-Fayt, Haut-Lieu, Hecq, Hestrud, La Groise, Landrecies, Larouillies, Le Favril, Leval, Lez-Fontaine, Limont-Fontaine, Liessies, Locquignol, Marbaix, Maroilles, Monceau-Saint-Waast, Moustier-en-Fagne, Noyelles-Sur-Sambre, Obrechies, Ohain, Ors, Petit-Fayt, Pommereuil, Pont-sur-Sambre, Preux-aux-Bois, Prisches, Quievelon, Rainsars, Ramousies, Rejet-de-Beaulieu, Robersart, Solre-le-Château, Solrinnes, Trélon, Saint-Aubin, Sains-du-Nord, Saint-Hilaire-sur-Helpe, Saint-Rémy-Chaussée, Sars-Poteries, Sassegnies, Sémeries, Semousies, Taisnières-en-Thiérache, Wallers-en-Fagne, Wattignies-la-Victoire, Waudrechies, Wignehies, Willies.
Department of Aisne: Any-Martin-Rieux, Archon, Aubenton, Autreppes, Bancigny, Barzy-en-Thiérache, Beaumé, Bergues-sur-Sambre, Besmont, Brunehamel, Boué, Bucilly, Buire, Burelles, Buironfosse, Braye-en-Thiérache, Chigny, Clairfontaine, Coingt, Cuiry-lès-Iviers, Crupilly, Dagny-Lambercy, Dohis, Dorengt, Englancourt, Effry, Éparcy, Erloy, Esquéhéries, Étréaupont, Etreux, Fesmy-le-Sart, Flavigny-le-Grand-et-Beaurain, Fontaine-lès-Vervins, Fontenelle, Froidestrées, Gercy, Gergny, Grandrieux, Gronard, Guise, Harcigny, Hary, Haution, Hirson, Houry, Iron, Iviers, Jeantes, La Bouteille, La Capelle, La Flamengrie, La Hérie, Laigny, Landouzy-la-Cour, Landouzy-la-Ville, La Neuville-lès-Dorengt, La-Vallée-au-Blé, Lavaqueresse, Lemé, Le-Nouvion-en-Thiérache, Lerzy, Les Autels, Leschelles, Le-Sourd, Leuze, Logny-lès-Aubenton, Lugny, Luzoir, Malzy, Marly-Gomont, Martigny, Monceau-sur-Oise, Mondrepuis, Mont-Saint-Jean, Morgny-en-Tiérache, Nampcelles-la-Cour, Neuve-Maison, Ohis, Oisy, Origny-en-Thiérache, Papleux, Parfondeval, Plomion, Prisces, Proizy, Résigny, Rocquigny, Rogny, Romery, Sommeron, Sorbais, Saint-Algis, Saint-Clément, Saint-Michel, Thenailles, Vervins, Villers-lès-Guise Voulpaix, Watigny, Wiège-Faty, Wimy.
5.   Link with the geographical area


Specificity of the geographical area

The geographical area of the ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ corresponds to the natural region of Thiérache, located south of the district of Avesnes (Department of Nord) and north of the district of Vervins (Department of Aisne). It has a very particular, genuine bocage landscape, between the plain of the Nord and the chalky plateau of Picardy. Thiérache's identity is closely bound to grassland gridded with hedgerows.
Thiérache is characterised by hilly terrain with short, steep slopes, covered by grassland and wood (notably ash and beech), and by abundant precipitation (over 900 mm per year). Its notable geological formations are the Cenomanien marls and clay-silt loams, substrates which retain high humidity and a relatively constant temperature. Flora surveys have been conducted on these rich and impermeable clay soils, revealing the presence of a rich and diversified flora.
Broadly exposed to westerly winds, which bring heavy rains, Thiérache is even more humid due to its impermeable soil, which favours the growth of grass. However, the growth dynamic is not constant and makes the harvests irregular.
As far back as 1930, at the National Congress of the Dairy Industry, Albert Ledant drew attention to the natural features of Thiérache and in particular its subsoil and damp climate, kept constant by the expanse of forest, the widespread herbaceous vegetation, the numerous shelters created by the many hedges, and so on.
As regards human factors, the origin of ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ is undoubtedly linked to the Abbey of Saint-Humbert of Maroilles, founded in the seventh century and whose holdings were located mainly in today's districts of Avesnes and Vervins.
The 19th century saw the development of livestock farming in Thiérache and a broader use of grassland farming, characterised by the conversion of agricultural land into pasture partly surrounded by hedgerows. As the amounts of hay harvested from the land were irregular, the ‘herbagers’ (as the farmers in Thiérache were called) resorted to other locally-produced fodder (straw, and more recently maize) and to fodder originating from by-products of local food products, such as stillage, chicory roots and beetroot pulp. Today the system of rearing of dairy cows whose milk is intended for the production of ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ still meets those characteristics.
‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ was originally exclusively farm-produced. The farms had cellars made of brick or sometimes blue stone which were humid, south-west facing, well aerated and temperate. These conditions favour the growth of the red culture on the cheeses produced on the holding. From the end of the 19th century, maturers bought cheese locally or fresh from the farm and brought the cheeses to maturity in their own cellars. Even today, the ambient conditions of these cellars have been preserved or are reproduced in more modern facilities. The maturers provide constant care; they brush and/or wash the cheeses (with more or less salty water, with or without cultures) depending on the degree of maturation in order to accelerate the establishment and growth of cultures and to prevent mould (mostly blue) remaining on the surface.

Specificity of the product

The ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ is a cheese with a washed rind, soft and fermented paste, square in shape, from 12,5 to 13 cm thick. It may also be in smaller formats: Sorbais, Mignon and Quart.
The ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ is characterised by:






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a homogeneous red-orange crust,










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a paste that is soft to the touch,










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a strong and characteristic odour, slightly ammoniac,










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a slightly salty milky taste with an acidity in the paste, as well as a slight bitterness, flavours of curd (at the end of the minimum maturation period), hazelnut and notes of alliums. These characteristics become stronger and more pronounced with a longer maturation.





Causal link

The characteristic features of the natural environment of the geographical area explain the permanent pasture, even in the summer, but also the poor soil bearing capacity in certain periods and grass-grazing difficulty. The abundant and regular rainfall makes it difficult to collect and conserve the grass. Despite these constraints, Thiérache remains a region dedicated to dairy production. Other local fodder production makes it possible to feed the cattle during periods when the grass is not accessible or available in sufficient amounts. The bocage is ideally suited to fodder production and livestock grazing. The hedgerows protect against sudden changes in temperature and allow moisture to be conserved. They also play a role in the pastures' wealth of flora, thereby influencing the quality of the cheese.
The square shape that is characteristic of ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ comes from the traditional square moulds, which were made with hard wood from the trees in the geographical area (ash, beech, etc.), which is not easy to bend, unlike the material used in other cheese-making areas, where round cheeses were developed.
The humid climate of the geographical area, which makes it possible to maintain particular conditions in the maturation cellars, combined with the maturer's expertise in handling the cheeses favours the development of a rind with a homogeneous red-orange colour, due to the red culture, and contributes to the development of the characteristic flavour and aroma of ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’.
The ‘Maroilles’/‘Marolles’ is a cheese truly linked to its region, as is borne out in the Judgment of 17 July 1955 of the Court of First Instance of Château-Thierry: ‘The cheese made in this region obtains its value from the raw milk, the bacterial flora specific to the region, the maturing cellars unique to its subsoil, making it a cheese with a special appearance and taste impossible to obtain in another region.’.

Reference to publication of the specification

(the second subparagraph of Article 6(1) of this Regulation)
https://info.agriculture.gouv.fr/gedei/site/bo-agri/document_administratif-d2d8b040-611d-4631-94ed-6dc1141858c6/telechargement


(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.