Publication of an amendment application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
Date: 2015-10-07
Institutions: European Commission
Subjects: France, Rhône-Alpes, consumer information, designation of origin, labelling, meat product, pigmeat, product designation, quality control of agricultural products








C_2015330EN.01000301.xml










7.10.2015   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 330/3





Publication of an amendment application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
(2015/C 330/04)
This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1).
APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF AN AMENDMENT TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION OF PROTECTED DESIGNATIONS OF ORIGIN/PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS WHICH IS NOT MINOR

Application for approval of an amendment in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012


‘JAMBON DE L'ARDÈCHE’


EU No: FR-PGI-0105-01248 — 4.8.2014


PDO ( ) PGI ( X )

1.   Applicant group and legitimate interest

The applicant group is the Association de Défense et de Promotion des Produits de Charcuterie de l'Ardèche (ADPPCA). This group has a legitimate interest in submitting this application. Its contact details are: Chambre de Commerce et de l'Industrie, Parc des Platanes, 07104 ANNONAY, tel. +33 475692727.
2.   Member State or Third Country

France
3.   Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)








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Name of product




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Product description




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Geographical area




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Proof of origin




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Method of production




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Link




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Labelling




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Other [change of inspection body]




4.   Type of amendment(s)








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Amendment to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI not to be regarded as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.




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Amendment to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI for which a Single Document (or equivalent) has not been published and which cannot be regarded as minor within the meaning of the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.




5.   Amendment(s)

5.1.   Geographical area

The municipality of ‘Saint Julien le Roux’ has been added to the list of municipalities forming the geographical area of the ‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ PGI, thereby rectifying this initial oversight. This municipality is located in the heart of the geographical area and appears on the map of the geographical area included in the specification.
The spelling of a number of municipalities has been corrected to bring them in line with the nomenclature of the French National Institute of Statistics and Economic Studies (INSEE).
5.2.   Method of production

As regards the raw material, the following aspects have been amended: the age of the pigs, the hot carcass weight and the muscle ratio, the pH of the hams and the amount of saltpetre to be used:
—   Age of the pigs

The age of the pigs at slaughter (minimum age of 172 days for standard-weight pigs and average age of 182 days for heavy-weight pigs) has been deleted, given that these criteria are no longer in line with current practice in the pig sector.
Advances in breeding and nutrition have allowed pigs to grow more quickly, and they are now slaughtered at a younger age but with a carcass weight that is often heavier than in the past. The average weight of carcasses has increased by 5 kg in 10 years.
Nowadays, meat quality is not linked to the age of the animal, but rather to the muscle and fat ratio of the carcass. As such, animals with the same carcass quality can vary in age by 10 days or more. This means that age monitoring is no longer part of the certification process, and muscle ratio values are monitored instead. The criterion of age has ceased to be relevant.
—   Hot carcass weight

For standard-weight pigs, the carcass weight range has been increased by 3 kg (previously 72-89 kg, now 75-92 kg). For heavy-weight pigs, the minimum carcass weight has been increased to 92 kg (strictly above) instead of 90 kg (equal to or above).
The lower weight limit for carcasses of standard-weight pigs has been increased in order to bring it into line with the minimum weight of the prepared fresh ham, as indicated in the specification. The specification requires the fresh ham to have a minimum weight of 8,5 kg after trimming. However, the weight of the ham before trimming equates to 1/8 of the weight of the carcass and trimming leads to an average loss of 0,8 kg. As such, the weight of the carcass must be 74,4 kg. The carcass weight range has therefore increased by 3 kg.
Furthermore, the minimum carcass weight for heavy-weight pigs and the maximum carcass weight for standard-weight pigs have been increased. This can be justified by advances in breeding and feed, which have led to a 4 kg increase in the average weight of pigs between 1997 and 2009. Today, the average weight of carcasses is around 91,5 kg.
—   Muscle ratio

The upper limit for muscle ratio has been increased by one percentage point to 64 %.
This increase also takes into account advances in breeding, which have led to an average 1 % increase in muscle ratio over 10 years.
—   pH of the hams

The pH of the fresh ham must be between 5,5 to 6,2.
The aim of this provision is to ensure that the hams are fresh.
—   Authorised amount of saltpetre

The reference to the maximum residual amount allowed in the finished product has been deleted given that it complies with the general rules in force (Directive 2006/52/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 5 July 2006).
5.3.   Labelling

The requirement to display the words ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ has been deleted, as these words are already contained in the European Union's PGI logo that must be included on the labelling.
The term ‘PGI logo’ has been replaced by the term ‘the European Union's PGI logo’ so as to use the correct term.
5.4.   Others

The section on ‘References to the inspection body’ has been amended.
SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘JAMBON DE L'ARDÈCHE’


EU No: FR-PGI-0105-01248 — 4.8.2014


PDO ( ) PGI ( X )

1.   Name


‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’

2.   Member State or Third Country

France
3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product

Class 1.2. Meat products (cooked, salted, smoked, etc.)
3.2.   Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies


General description:

‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ is a dry-cured product. It is a high-quality product made from the hind leg of a pig, weighing a minimum of 8,5 kg when fresh, and is prepared and trimmed to a round before being rubbed by hand with salt mixed with saltpetre, pepper and spices, rested and then matured and ripened for at least 7 months.
‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ is round at the base and extends progressively to the foot, which is disjointed beforehand (detached at the joint). The aitchbone is cut straight, parallel to the axis of the ham, at a distance of 2 cm from the head of the femur, which has been freed. The inner face of the ham is uncovered down to the bottom.

Curing and ripening:

‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ is cured in several stages. The ham is coated during ripening. This involves coating the uncovered, lean face with a mixture of lard (the coating), spices and chestnut flour from the Ardèche.
The age of ‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ is counted from the first day of salting when it comes out of the drying room. It is aged for a minimum of 7 months, 9 months or 12 months. The minimum dry weight of the ham, on the bone, is 6 kg.
The older the ham, the more developed its organoleptic qualities and in particular its flavour. Also, with time, water loss increases and the meat becomes firmer. In order to optimise the balance between flavour and texture, the minimum dry weight in relation to age must be determined.






Age of the dry-cured ham


Weight of the dry-cured ham




7 months


≥ 6 kg




9 months


≥ 6,7 kg




12 months


≥ 7,3 kg




The length of the ripening phase is indicated for the consumer on the ‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ label.

Smoking: an optional stage:

The dry-cured ham can also be lightly smoked at the end of the manufacturing process. This optional process is carried out dry in a smoke generator with chestnut wood only. This gives the ham a more traditional appearance.
In this case the label contains the information ‘Dry-smoked with chestnut wood’.

Organoleptic properties:

‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ is characterised by a supple and pleasant texture, which is slightly firmer on the surface.
Slicing it reveals dark red, bordeaux-coloured lean meat, which may be lightly marbled and may be covered with a layer of white fat. The thickness of this layer (1 to 2 centimetres) varies depending on the size of the ham.
‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ has an appetising meaty flavour, with a touch of salt and spices. Its taste and smell become more pronounced the longer it is ripened. Thanks to the coating process, the entire ham is permeated by a faint scent of chestnuts. The ham's rich flavours and aromas are typical of dry-cured mountain ham.

Physico-chemical characteristics:

The physico-chemical characteristics of the product must respect the legal values prior to its being placed on the market.
Also, the aw of the dry product must not exceed 0,91.

Presentation of the product:

After ripening, ‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ can be presented:






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Whole, on the bone: without the foot, which was disjointed when the ham was fresh.










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Whole, off the bone: slit, boned, then sewn up and pressed into a mould (ham moulding process).




The product can be marketed in different forms:






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Whole ham, on the bone, bare or packaged in a cotton cloth (muslin);










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Whole ham, boned, moulded, vacuum-packed;










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0,5 or 0,25 ham, boned, vacuum-packed;










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Whole ham, boned, rindless, trimmed, moulded and vacuum-packed;










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0,5 or 0,25 ham, boned, rindless, trimmed, moulded and vacuum-packed;










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Slices of ham on a vacuum-packed tray or packaged appropriately in a controlled atmosphere.




However it is presented, ‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ exhibits the same distinctive signs and has been selected in the same way.
3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The raw material comes from domestic pigs, both standard-weight and heavy-weight, according to the following conditions:
Only ham cuts that are fresh and originate from the EU (animals born, raised and slaughtered in the European Union) are authorised to be made into ‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’.
The meat must respect the minimum criteria below:






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for standard-weight pigs:






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hot carcass weight at slaughter of between 75 and 92 kg;










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a muscle ratio between 53 % and 64 %.














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for heavy-weight pigs:






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hot carcass weight of above 92 kg;










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a muscle ratio between 53 % and 64 %.








All pigs (standard-weight pigs and heavy-weight pigs) must also meet certain requirements:






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breed:






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the pigs are the descendants of pigs from pig selection bodies or certified artificial insemination centres.










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In other cases, the ratio of standard-weight pigs that are sensitive to halothane is < 3 % and the animals are unaffected by the RN– allele (zero occurrences).








The ham used may not have a fresh weight of less than 8,5 kg after carving and trimming. The pH of the fresh ham is between 5,5 to 6,2.
No more than 5 % of hams may have flaws affecting the appearance of the rind, meat or fat of the ham.
All pigs (standard-weight pigs and heavy-weight pigs) must also meet certain feed conditions:






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A minimum of 60 % of the pigs' feed consists of cereals and cereal-based products.










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It is forbidden to use artificial additives containing growth factor throughout the animal's life.




3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

The production steps from salting to ripening the ham (salting, brushing, washing, resting or maturing, drying, ripening), and smoking after production if relevant, must be carried out in the geographical area of the PGI as they are steps that determine the specificity of the product.
3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

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3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to







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Name under which product is sold: ‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’










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Length of the ripening period (7, 9 or 12 months)











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Where relevant ‘Smoked with chestnut wood’










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The European Union's PGI logo.




4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

The geographical area is located in south-east France in the Rhône-Alpes region.
It is limited to the 213 municipalities in the Ardèche department that are situated in a mountain area, as defined by Law 8530 of 9 January 1985, updated by the bylaw of 28 May 1997.

The following municipalities are in the geographical area:

Accons, Aizac, Ajoux, Albon-d'Ardèche, Alboussière, Alissas, Annonay, Antraigues-sur-Volane, Arcens, Arlebosc, Asperjoc, Astet, Aubignas, Barnas, Le Béage, Beaumont, Beauvène, Berzème, Boffres, Borée, Borne, Bozas, Boucieu-le-Roi, Boulieu-lès-Annonay, Burzet, Cellier-du-Luc, Chalencon, Chambon, Champis, Chanéac, Chassiers, Châteauneuf-de-Vernoux, Chazeaux, Le Cheylard, Chirols, Colombier-le-Jeune, Colombier-le-Vieux, Coucouron, Coux, Le Crestet, Creysseilles, Cros-de-Géorand, Darbres, Desaignes, Devesset, Dompnac, Dornas, Dunières-sur-Eyrieux, Empurany, Fabras, Faugères, Flaviac, Freyssenet, Genestelle, Gilhac-et-Bruzac, Gilhoc-sur-Ormèze, Gluiras, Gourdon, Gravières, Intres, Issamoulenc, Issanlas, Issarlès, Jaujac, Jaunac, Joannas, Juvinas, Labastide-sur-Bésorgues, Labatie-d'Andaure, Laboule, Le Lac-d'Issarlès, Lachamp-Raphaël, Lachapelle Graillouse, Lachapelle-sous-Chanéac, Lafarre, Lalevade-d'Ardèche, Lalouvesc, Lamastre, Lanarce, Laval-d'Aurelle, Laveyrune, Lavillatte, Laviolle, Lentillères, Lesperon, Loubaresse, Lyas, Malarce-sur-la-Thines, Malbosc, Marcols-les-Eaux, Mariac, Mars, Mayres, Mazan-l'Abbaye, Meyras, Mezilhac, Mirabel, Monestier, Montpezat-sous-Bauzon, Montselgues, Nonières, Nozières, Les Ollières-sur-Eyrieux, Pailharès, Payzac, Pereyres, Le Plagnal, Planzolles, Plats, Pont-de-Labeaume, Pourchères, Prades, Pranles, Preaux, Privas, Prunet, Ribes, Rochepaule, Rocher, Rochessauve, La Rochette, Rocles, Roiffieux, Le Roux, Sablières, Sagnes-et-Goudoulet, Saint-Agrève, Saint-Alban-d'Ay, Saint-Alban-en-Montagne, Saint-Andéol-de-Fourchades, Saint-Andéol-de-Vals, Saint-André-en-Vivarais, Saint-André-Lachamp, Saint-Apollinaire-de-Rias, Saint-Barthélémy-le-Meil, Saint-Barthélémy-Grozon, Saint-Barthélémy-le-Plain, Saint-Basile, Saint-Bauzile, Saint-Christol, Saint-Cierge-la-Serre, Saint-Cierge-sous-le-Cheylard, Saint-Cirgues-de-Prades, Saint-Cirgues-en-Montagne, Saint-Clément, Saint-Étienne-de-Boulogne, Saint-Étienne-de-Lugdarès, Saint-Étienne-de-Serre, Sainte-Eulalie, Saint-Félicien, Saint-Fortunat-sur-Eyrieux, Saint-Genest-Lachamp, Saint-Gineis-en-Coiron, Saint-Jean-Chambre, Saint-Jean-le-Centenier, Saint-Jean-Roure, Saint-Jeure-d'Andaure, Saint-Joseph-des-Bancs, Saint-Julien-Boutières, Saint-Julien-du-Serre, Saint-Julien-du-Gua, Saint-Julien-Labrousse, Saint-Julien-le-Roux, Saint-Julien-Vocance, Saint-Laurent-du-Pape, Saint-Laurent-les-Bains, Saint-Laurent-sous-Coiron, Saint-Marcel-lès-Annonay, Sainte-Marguerite-la-Figère, Saint-Martial, Saint-Martin-de-Valamas, Saint-Martin-sur-Lavezon, Saint-Maurice-en-Chalencon, Saint-Mélany, Saint-Michel-d'Aurance, Saint-Michel-de-Boulogne, Saint-Michel-de-Chabrillanoux, Saint-Pierre-de-Colombier, Saint-Pierre-la-Roche, Saint-Pierre Saint-Jean, Saint-Pierre-sur-Doux, Saint-Pierreville, Saint-Pons, Saint-Priest, Saint-Prix, Saint-Romain-de-Lerps, Saint-Sauveur-de-Montagut, Saint-Sylvestre, Saint-Symphorien-de-Mahun, Saint-Victor, Saint-Vincent-de-Durfort, Les Salelles, Sanilhac, Satillieu, Savas, Sceautres, Silhac, La Souche, Tauriers, Thueyts, Toulaud, Usclades-et-Rieutord, Valgorge, Vals-les-Bains, Vanosc, Les Vans, Vaudevant, Vernon, Vernoux-en-Vivarais, Vesseaux, Veyras, Villevocance, Vocance.
5.   Link with the geographical area


Specificity of the geographical area

The geographical area consists of mountains and highland areas with uneven terrain that are often windswept.
Its eastern border is formed by the eastern side of the Massif Central and it stretches to the west over the Viverais and Boutières mountains and the Montagne Ardèchoise with the Coiron massif (excluding its southern face) at the centre, and more to the south the Tarnargue massif, and the Vivarais Cévénol ledge arriving in the far south of Vans and Malbosc.
The altitude varies from an average of 500 metres to 1 700 metres. This area is wooded to the north and the centre with fir and chestnut trees. To the south the vegetation tends to consist more of bushes and shrubs. The climate is continental to semi-continental: cold and dry at altitude with harsh winters and short, sunny summers.
To respect the length of the ripening process with suitable air and temperature conditions, ham production used to be located in mountain areas where these conditions were all present for most of the year.
Ripening in mountain areas has continued and remains a strong characteristic of ham production today, as has using chestnut flour from the Ardèche during the coating process and, if the ham is to be smoked, using only chestnut wood that is in strong supply locally since the Ardèche is the largest producer of chestnuts in France (50 % of national production).
Today, the geographical area is still characterised by a strong presence of small and medium-sized curing enterprises that have often been in business for more than one hundred years and have passed on their history and savoir-faire over the centuries and generations in an area where the geographical and climatic conditions were favourable for them.

Specificity of the product

The specificity of ‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ is based on both the long-standing reputation of this product and of salt meats from the Ardèche in general, and the specific savoir-faire that guarantees the optimal expression of the product's aroma and taste specificities.

The reputation of ‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’

Hams from the Ardèche have established their reputation over the centuries. From as far back as the 16th century there are references to traditional pig killing rituals, real festive traditions that made it possible to live through the winter from the carcasses, all of which can be used down to the last bit. At that time, ‘black pudding, bacon, chitterlings and sausages’ were prepared according to regional traditions ‘in countries abundant in chestnuts, bacon joints and hams were hung near chestnuts when they were dried in smoke to whiten them’. Farms became genuine larders. In his books about travel in Haut Vivarais, Mazon marvelled at the ‘ceilings decorated with bacon, hock, trotters and strings of sausages’.
This legacy lives on and each generation has been able to make its contribution and to pass on its demands and savoir-faire.
So it is at the heart of this land and these mountains rich in history, tradition and savoir-faire that the reputation of ‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ was established and passed on in his native Vivarais by Olivier de Serres, father of French agriculture as far back as the 16th century, who explained in his books how to produce ham, by Charles Forot, the famous poet from the Ardèche, and by Curnonsky, who christened the Ardèche ‘a gourmet's paradise’ and a small village in the Ardèche as ‘the Mecca of cold meat’.
From the 20th century with the development of food tourism, ham from the Ardèche has been recognised as a traditional local product belonging to French culinary heritage. It is famous in France, Europe and beyond.

The savoir-faire used in its preparation

In the Ardèche there has been a real pig culture anchored in tradition since the 16th century. The recipe corresponds to the old savoir-faire and allows the ‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ to reach its full physiological maturity and the best expression of its taste by the end of the ripening phase.
This recipe requires the meticulous selection of raw materials, dry salting by hand, coating with local chestnut flour and ripening for at least 7 months depending on the weight of the ham.
The only cut of meat used for dry-cured ham from the Ardèche is the fresh hind leg of a pig. The quality of the fresh meat, in particular the quality of the lean meat and of the fat, is guaranteed by sorting the ham cuts meticulously and also by the criteria relating to the raw material (traditional cereal-based feed, breed criteria, slaughter age and weight of the carcass, ratio of lean meat). Once it has been selected, the ham is salted by rubbing it by hand with salt, mixed with saltpetre, pepper and spices. The only additive allowed is saltpetre. The ham then goes through a compulsory maturation phase before going into the drying room.
During the ripening phase, the ham is coated with a mixture of lard, spices and chestnut flour from the Ardèche. The weight of the dry-cured ham on the bone is related to its age, which can be either 7, 9 or 12 months, when it comes out of the ripening phase.
The ham can also be smoked but this is optional. It is done in a smoking room with chestnut wood used in a smoke generator. The use of smoke flavour is forbidden.

Specific quality: visual, aromatic and taste characteristics

‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ is the product of carefully selected raw materials and a traditional and specific recipe, which give it its special characteristics.
‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ is characterised by a supple and pleasant texture, which is slightly firmer on the surface, even though it is softened by the effect of the coating.
Slicing it reveals bordeaux-coloured lean meat, which can be lightly marbled and have a layer of white fat. The thickness of this fat layer (1 to 2 centimetres) varies depending on the size of the ham. Its wealth of scents is typical of dry-cured mountain ham after lengthy ripening.
The coating adds a light chestnut scent that permeates the ham to a pronounced meaty taste, lightly salted and spiced with notes of hazelnut.
Smoking with chestnut wood, where it is done, emphasises the traditional appearance of the ham.

Causal link

The Ardèche has been famous for centuries for its various cured pork products, in particular for its hams, which are dry-cured hams. The mountain areas in the Ardèche bring together all the natural conditions (temperature, hygrometry, wind) that are favourable for the production of cured meat and ripening in a natural environment.
This traditional production has made it possible to use savoir-faire to produce dry-cured hams. Today there is a strong influence in the choice and the quality of the meat used and in the traditional production methods that shows this savoir-faire specific to the region: salting by rubbing by hand and coating by hand with chestnut flour from the Ardèche. ‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’ requires a particularly long drying time and has always been closely linked to its environment. Ripening in mountain areas has continued and remains a strong characteristic of the production of ‘Jambon de l'Ardèche’.
Traditionally those who dry-cured meat used chestnut wood, which was readily available in mountain areas. Chestnut trees have always covered vast tracts of mountain areas in the Ardèche and are a tree crop, the Ardèche being the largest producer of chestnuts in France, with more than 50 % of the national harvest. It follows that chestnut flour is used by meat curers as a main ingredient in the coating for the lean parts of the ham.
To emphasise the traditional appearance of the ham, only chestnut wood can be used to dry-smoke the ham.

Reference to publication of the specification

(the second subparagraph of Article 6(1) of this Regulation)
https://www.inao.gouv.fr/fichier/CDCJambondelArdeche-V2modifnov2014.pdf


(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.