Publication of an amendment application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
Date: 2014-12-31
Institutions: European Commission
Subjects: France, consumer information, designation of origin, foodstuff, goats’ milk cheese, product designation




C_2014468EN.01000201.xml










31.12.2014   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 468/2





Publication of an amendment application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
(2014/C 468/02)
This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1).
AMENDMENT APPLICATION

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006


on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs
 (2)


AMENDMENT APPLICATION IN ACCORDANCE WITH ARTICLE 9


‘CHEVROTIN’


EC No: FR-PDO-0105-0970-23.2.2012


PGI ( ) PDO ( X )

1.   Sections of the specification affected by the amendments



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☐
 Product name


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☒
 Product description


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☒
 Geographical area


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☒
 Proof of origin


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☒
 Production method


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☐
 Link


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☐
 Labelling


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 National requirements


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 Other: packaging
2.   Type of amendments



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 Amendment to the Single Document or Summary Sheet


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 Amendment to the Specification of a registered PDO or PGI for which neither the Single Document nor the Summary Sheet has been published


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 Amendment to the Specification that requires no amendment to the published Single Document (Article 9(3) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006)


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☐
 Temporary amendment to the Specification resulting from the adoption of obligatory sanitary or phytosanitary measures by the public authorities (Article 9(4) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006)
3.   Amendments

3.1.   Description

A description of the cheese’s paste has been added to better characterise the product.
The fat content of the dry matter has been lowered: 40 % rather than 45 %. This decrease is justified by the variations that have been observed in milk fat levels depending on the goats’ grazing conditions. As the milk is made into cheese each day, fat content can vary greatly. This variable had not previously been properly taken into account.
3.2.   Geographical area

Part of the territory of the municipality of Annecy-le-Vieux has been added to the defined geographical area. Further to a farmer’s request to be included in the defined area, an investigation was carried out to establish whether this land complied with the list of criteria established for the initial definition of the defined geographical area. The committee of experts responsible for reviewing the boundaries of the defined area considered that part of the territory within the municipality of Annecy-le-Vieux does indeed comply with these criteria.
The characteristics that describe the geographical area have been moved to the section ‘Link with the geographical area’ and redrafted.
3.3.   Proof of origin

Cheesemakers’ obligations as regards declarations have been laid down. These amendments are related to the reform of the inspection system for designations of origin introduced by Order No 2006/1547 of 7 December 2006 on increasing the value of agricultural, forestry, food and marine products. Specifically, the plan is to identify cheesemakers with a view to awarding certificates recognising their ability to meet the requirements of the specifications for the product that constitutes their livelihood, and to issue statements testifying that they have the requisite knowledge and that the products sold under the ‘appellation d’origine’ label have been duly monitored and statements providing information on how the livestock have been fed.
A provision on the quality control of products has been added, so as to verify quality at the end of the production process.
The fact that the identifying stamp on the cheese is round has been specified.
3.4.   Production method


Milk production

The definition of the herd has been specified on the basis of the national text for the previous specification registered: ‘Herd means, in the context of this specification, the entire herd of goats comprising lactating goats, dry goats, female kids and billy goats.’
A clerical error in the national text has been corrected: the rate of 80 % alpine breed goats refers to the herd as a whole and not just to female goats.
A specification has been added with regard to the breed of goat used. The Alpine breed is actually composed of a variety of phenotypes, ranging from chamois to ‘pie noir’ or ‘noir’, so this amendment is intended to clarify which phenotypes farmers are authorised to use. In common parlance, phenotypes other than the chamois phenotype are called ‘Chèvres des Savoie’ - Savoy goats.
To facilitate checks, the capping calculation method for average production per lactating goat has been based on the national text for the previous specification registered.
As regards feed:






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A positive list of the authorised fodder and the raw materials and additives that can be used in the composition of feed supplements has been specified in order to lay down the types of feed that are authorised and to facilitate checks.










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Specifically, dehydrated fodder has been added to the feed listed as fodder. The types of feed that can be given to the goats have been better defined.










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Maximum feed levels have been laid down for supplements and dehydrated fodder, to prevent them being used to replace the grass in the goats’ diet. Use of feed supplements for lactating goats has been limited to 300 grams per litre of milk produced and if dehydrated fodder is used, the use of feed supplements and dehydrated fodder has been limited to 500 grams per litre of milk produced.










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The option of using dehydrated fodder from outside the geographical area has been added to facilitate checking the origin of the overall feed ration.










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Provisions aimed at prohibiting the use of genetically modified feed or planting transgenic crops in the farms have been added to protect the link with the geographic area.










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To ensure the goats are fed quality feed, it has been specified that all feed must be kept in appropriate storage conditions to preserve its nutritional value.




Rules have been laid down on manure spreading in the land parcels used to grow the goats’ feed, as organic fertiliser may modify the composition of the flora of the pasture land; establishing limits therefore enables the naturally diverse flora to be preserved and the link with the geographical area to remain intact.

‘The only organic manure authorised comes from the Chevrotin protected designation of origin area and comprises compost, manure, slurry, liquid manure (from farms) and non-agricultural organic manure, such as sewage sludge (or by-products) and green waste.
Any spreading of non-agricultural organic manure requires analysis and monitoring of every lot (lorry, tank, …) for pathogenic germs, heavy metals and organic compounds/traces, as stipulated in the relevant legislation.
Spreading non-agricultural organic manure is authorised on farm land, provide it is covered over immediately and done in compliance with the legislation in force with regard to the specific restrictions (dates, protected areas, …), quantities etc.’


The production process

The operations that must take place on the (dairy) farm have been listed and moved from specification section ‘Description of the product production method’ to ‘The production process’.
The provision on ‘Chevrotin’ production plants has been changed to lay down rules for plants using milk from animals other than goats to produce other dairy products.
The phrase ‘Simply decreasing the temperature of the milk promotes the development of natural yeasts and avoids the development of psychotropic flora’ has been deleted, as it merely provides information and does not constitute a point to be checked.
To facilitate checks, it has been specified that farms where all or part of the milk produced is used to make ‘Chevrotin’ must respect all the production conditions for the milk laid down in the specification.
A clerical error in the national text has been corrected based on the national text for the previous specification registered:
the renneting temperature range has been changed (30 to 38 °C instead of 32 to 36 °C during renneting, as this range is maintained for the duration of the coagulation process).
The composition of the lactic yeasts has been specified so as to ensure that the selected yeast cultures respect the specific flora and allow the full expression of what typifies ‘Chevrotin’.
The definition of the moulding cloth has been changed. It may be made of cotton and not only of linen. The intention is to correct the initial drafting, which only permitted linen whereas in fact cotton can also be used for this purpose.

Maturation

The maturing supports are no longer exclusively limited to spruce planks. ‘Chevrotin’ producers have ascertained that supports other than wood can be used once the drying phase, which must be done on spruce planks, is complete. It is during this phase that the wood serves to regulate the water content and promote the growth of the flora needed for maturation. Experience has shown that using other types of simpler supports during maturation does not compromise the cheese’s characteristics. Various cheesemakers have experimented with using different supports (or matting) with no adverse effects on quality (no problems of excess water or contamination with unwanted flora). In fact, in collective maturing plants these more inert supports are useful for combating unwanted germs, as they are easy to clean.
3.5.   Labelling

The requirement to include the reference ‘appellation d’origine contrôlée’ on the labelling has been deleted and replaced by a requirement to include the European Union’s protected designation of origin symbol, in the interests of legibility and synergy in the provision of information about PDO-registered products. The words ‘appellation d’origine protégée’ can also appear on the label.
The obligation to include the ‘INAO’ logo has been removed in line with current national legislation.
3.6.   National requirements

In accordance with the above-mentioned national reform of the inspection system for designations of origin, a table has been added which sets out the main points to be checked and the relevant evaluation method to be used.
3.7.   Other changes


Packaging

The rules on packaging remain unchanged (the whole cheese is packaged in an individual package with a false bottom made of spruce wood). The amendment concerns when the cheese can be packaged (from the 15th day of maturation and not ‘from the end of the maturation period’ as stated in heading 2 of the registered specification).
This practice ensures that the product retains its quality after the maturation period. The influence of the packaging is actually positive in that it acts like a ‘micro cellar’ and helps to produce a more supple texture by ensuring the cheese does not dry out and by promoting proteolysis. This practice also prevents any spoiling (e.g. the occurrence of black spotting that may appears at the end of the maturation process on cheeses left uncovered on wooden planks or matting) and any deterioration of the rind (fissures, malformation).
SINGLE DOCUMENT

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006


on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs
 (3)


‘CHEVROTIN’


EC No: FR-PDO-0105-0970-23.2.2012


PGI ( ) PDO ( X )

1.   Name


‘Chevrotin’

2.   Member State or Third Country

France
3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product

Class 1.3. Cheeses
3.2.   Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

The ‘Chevrotin’ cheese is made exclusively from raw whole goat’s milk: it is cylindrical with a diameter of 9 to 12 cm, height of 3 to 4,5 cm and weighs between 250 and 350 grams.
It is an uncooked pressed paste cheese, with a washed rind that is partially or completely covered after maturing with a fine white bloom principally composed of geotrichum, with a minimum fat content of 40 grams per 100 grams of cheese after total desiccation, when the total dry matter content must not be less than 45 grams per 100 grams of cheese.
‘Chevrotin’ is packaged in an individual package with a false bottom made of a strip of spruce wood.
It is packaged whole.
It has a supple and creamy paste and may have a harder centre and some small eyes. ‘Chevrotin’ is cream in colour, faintly salty and has a caprine taste.
3.3.   Raw materials (for processed products only)

The milk used to produce ‘Chevrotin’ comes from herds comprising a minimum of 80 % of Alpine goats, including the breed called ‘chèvre des Savoie’ listed by the French Livestock Breeders Institute (l’Institut de l’élevage) in the context of the goat breed conservation programme.
3.4.   Feed (for products of animal origin only)

Feed consists of pasture grass and hay.
The main constituent of the goats’ feed is the vegetation they graze upon in the production area for five months per annum.
Farmers have a minimum of 1 000 m2 pasture per goat.
Only the feed listed below is authorised to feed the whole herd:






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The only coarse fodder authorised is the vegetation the goats graze upon and the hay from natural meadows and from artificial grassland planted with grasses and legumes stored in good conditions;










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dehydrated fodder: dehydrated beetroot pulp and dried alfalfa;










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the following raw materials, used in the composition of feed supplements: all cereals and derived products, molasses as a binder, whole or crushed peas, field beans, lupine, soya, sunflower cake, copra, linseed, palm kernel, colza, soya, cotton, potatoes, vegetable fats, all minerals, macro-elements and whey from the farm stored in good conditions to prevent any contamination with pathogenic germs. The only additives authorised are trace elements and vitamins.




The fodder produced in the area must represent at least 70 % of the herd’s total feed ration, expressed in dry matter. Use of feed supplements for lactating goats is limited to 300 grams per litre of milk produced.
Should dehydrated fodder be used, feed supplements and dehydrated fodder may not exceed 500 grams per litre of milk produced.
Genetically modified plants, or GMO derived by-products or feed supplements, may not be used as feed for the goats.
The planting of transgenic crops is prohibited in all areas of holdings producing milk intended for processing into ‘Chevrotin’ protected designation of origin. This prohibition extends to all plant species that can be given as feed to the farm animals, and any crop that could contaminate them. The legislation in force applies with regard to accepted thresholds, which apply to each feed ingredient.
3.5.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

The milk is produced and the cheese manufactured and matured in the geographical area.
3.6.   Specific rules on slicing, grating, packaging, etc.

In order to ensure that the cheese is protected and to preserve its essential qualities as regards the rind, the texture of the paste and the intensity of its aroma, the ‘Chevrotin’ cheese is packaged whole. This packaging includes a false bottom made of spruce wood that is in contact with at least one of the sides of the cheese. Packaging takes place in the geographical area.
3.7.   Specific rules on labelling

Each ‘appellation d’origine’‘Chevrotin’ cheese is sold with an individual label bearing the name of the protected designation of origin.
The name of the protected designation of origin is written in characters at least 20 % larger than any other character used on the label.
A translucent casein disc contains the name of the protected designation of origin and the producer’s identification number. It is affixed to the side of each cheese during production.
The labelling must include the European Union’s PDO symbol. It may also include the words ‘appellation d’origine protégée’ [‘protected designation of origin’].
4.   Concise definition of the geographical area


Department of Haute-Savoie

Municipalities fully covered in the area:
Abondance, Alex, Allèves, Arâches, Aviernoz, Bellevaux, Bernex, Boëge, Bogève, Bluffy, Bonnevaux, Brizon, Burdignin, Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, Châtel, Chevenoz, Chevaline, Combloux, Cons-Sainte-Colombe, Cordon, Demi-Quartier, Dingy-Saint-Clair, Domancy, Doussard, Entremont, Entrevernes, Essert-Romand, Faverges, Giez, Habère-Lullin, Habère-Poche, La Balme-de-Thuy, La Baume, La Chapelle-d’Abondance, La Chapelle-Saint-Maurice, La Clusaz, La Côte-d’Arbroz, La Forclaz, La Rivière-Enverse, La Tour, La Vernaz, Lathuile, Le Biot, Le Bouchet, Le Grand-Bornand, Le Petit-Bornand-les-Glières, Le Reposoir, Les Clefs, Les Contamines-Montjoie, Les Gets, Les Houches, Les Villards-sur-Thônes, Leschaux, Lullin, Magland, Manigod, Marlens, Megève, Mégevette, Mieussy, Montmin, Montriond, Mont-Saxonnex, Morillon, Morzine, Nancy-sur-Cluses, Nâves-Parmelan, Novel, Onnion, Passy, Praz-sur-Arly, Reyvroz, Sallanches, Samoëns, Saxel, Serraval, Servoz, Seythenex, Seytroux, Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, Saint-André-de-Boëge, Saint-Eustache, Saint-Ferréol, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, Saint-Jean-d’Aulps, Saint-Jean-de-Sixt, Saint-Jean-de-Tholomé, Saint-Jeoire, Saint-Laurent, Saint-Sigismond, Saint-Sixt, Talloires, Taninges, Thollon-les-Mémises, Thônes, Thorens-Glières, Vacheresse, Vailly, Vallorcine, Verchaix, Villard-sur-Boëge, Villaz, Ville-en-Sallaz, Viuz-en-Sallaz.
Municipalities partly covered in the area:
Annecy-le-Vieux, Ayze, Duingt, Gruffy, La Roche-sur-Foron, Lugrin, Marignier, Marnaz, Perrignier, Scionzier, Saint-Jorioz, Viuz-la-Chiésaz.

Department of Savoie

Municipalities fully covered in the area:
Aillon-le-Jeune, Aillon-le-Vieux, Allondaz, Arith, Bellecombe-en-Bauges, Cléry, Cohennoz, Crest-Volland, Doucy-en-Bauges, École-en-Bauges, Flumet, Jarsy, La Compôte, La Giettaz, La Motte-en-Bauges, La Thuile, Le Châtelard, Le Noyer, Les Déserts, Lescheraines, Notre-Dame-de-Bellecombe, Puygros, Saint-François-de-Sales, Saint-Nicolas-la-Chapelle, Sainte-Reine, Thoiry, Ugine.
Municipalities partly covered in the area:
Hauteluce, Le Montcel, Marthod, Mercury, Montailleur, Plancherine, Saint-Jean-d’Arvey, Saint-Jean-de-la-Porte, Saint-Offenge-Dessus, Thénésol, Verrens-Arvey, Villard-sur-Doron.
5.   Link with the geographical area

5.1.   Specificity of the geographical area


Natural factors

The territory of the geographical area extends over the mountainous part of the Department of Haute-Savoie consisting of the three mountain ranges of Chablais, Mont-Blanc and Aravis, and the Bauges mountain range in the Department of Savoie. It is characterised by:






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a cold and damp climate (annual rainfall of over 1 200 mm with summer rainfall in excess of 60 mm);










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the prevalence of the bioclimatic montane level throughout the area;










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the existence of hard calcareous ridges studding the landscape, which also explain the calcareous soil in the meadows;










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meadow vegetation with a predominance of species adapted to the characteristics of this montane level.




The geographical area of this designation is typified by selective climatic conditions and by the diversity of the biotopes. Because of this the flora and the vegetation are original and varied.
The originality of the flora results in a high proportion (at low altitude, immediately at the montane level) then in a predominance (above 1 500 m) of unusual species (as well as the usual meadow grasses, i.e. Poa alpina, Festuca violacea), or indeed of genera and families barely seen in neighbouring meadows (the Gentianaceae for instance).
The mountain meadows in the area where ‘Chevrotin’ is produced are remarkable for their flowering vegetation on account of the proliferation there of certain grasses that are rare in intensive farming conditions, particularly Lolium perenne (due to the altitude) and by the exuberance of certain specific dicotyledons, i.e. Geranium silvaticum and Chaerophyllium hirsutum.
Greatest diversity can be observed in the mountain pastures, particularly on account of the differences in the soil cover. The soils vary from one slope to another of the same mountain, depending on the duration of snow cover, the local parent rock, the nature of upstream areas, the circulation of water in the slopes and, lastly, the angle of inclination of the mountains.
The goat herds therefore frequently encounter a whole range of environments and plant groups in the same pasture area, ranging from plants that thrive in acid soil to those that prefer alkaline conditions, from plants that thrive in dry conditions to those that prefer moist ones.

Human factors

This combination of the climatic and geological conditions makes the designated area extremely suitable as pasture land and for fodder production; this has resulted in a regional economy that is mainly concentrated around grass-based farming systems, stockbreeding and most importantly milk production.
Over the centuries, the local population has established an agri-pastoral system based on a pasture period (of at least 5 months) including mountain pasture grazing and a winter period during which the animals are mainly fed on hay.
This mountain environment is the perfectly suited to the Alpine breed and the local goat population is known as the ‘Chèvre des Savoie’ - the Savoy goat; they are particularly well-adapted, by virtue of their hardiness and their qualities as dairy goats, to provide a source of food and income in harsh circumstances and for cheese production.
This is the context in which keeping goats has long been a source of income for the families in the region, who kept goats alongside cattle. The resulting products (milk, cheese, meat) were intended for consumption by the family.
Some texts dating as far back as the 18th century refer to the existence of a cheese called ‘Chevrotin’ in this region.
However, the key testimony remains the lease contracts where the farmer (who was an Alpine farmer) frequently had to pay rent in the form of cheeses. ‘Chevrotin’ is regularly listed among these cheeses.
Cheesemaking expertise has been passed down from generation to generation (the cheese is made with the warm milk immediately after milking, or after a maximum delay of 14 hours and at a minimum temperature of 10 °C; it is slightly warmed in a vat, pre-ripened and then washed).
5.2.   Specificity of the product

Among the whole range of goat’s cheeses, ‘Chevrotin’ stands out in that it is produced using a rapid coagulation technique and has a washed rind.
‘Chevrotin’ is an uncooked pressed paste cheese, with a washed rind, produced from whole raw goat’s milk, and is exclusively made on the farm.
‘Chevrotin’ has a thin rind with a pinkish tinge that is partially or completely covered in a fine white bloom. It has a supple and creamy paste and may have a harder centre and some small eyes. ‘Chevrotin’ is cream in colour, faintly salty and has a caprine taste.
5.3.   Causal link between the geographical area and the quality or characteristics of the product (for PDO) or a specific quality, the reputation or other characteristic of the product (for PGI)

The geographical area is located in the calcareous northern foothills of the Alps and is subject to heavy rainfall, given its direct exposure to squalls from the west. This humidity together with a relatively moderate altitude provides optimum conditions for the growth of vegetation and forest.
The techniques for herding the goats based on the natural resources according to extensive farming techniques promotes the diversity of this alpine flora, which can be detected in the cheese’s aromatic profile.
The proximity of these two farming traditions (keeping cattle and goats) in the geographical area could explain the fact that the technique used to manufacture ‘Chevrotin’ is very similar to that used to make the region’s cow’s milk cheeses.
The manner in which ‘Chevrotin’ is manufactured, i.e. exclusively at the farm using raw milk that is not processed in any way before renneting, enables the milk’s natural flora to be preserved, particularly the lactic and surface flora.
The know-how of each producer, at each key stage of the cheese-making process (the cheese is made with the warm milk, immediately after milking, or after a maximum delay of 14 hours and at a minimum temperature of 10 °C; it is slightly warmed in a vat, pre-ripened and then washed), helps bring out the milk’s physical and chemical characteristics (mineral balance, conservation of the fat content) and encourages the flora present in the milk.
The microflora and more specifically geotrichum candidum not only give ‘Chevrotin’ its specific appearance, but also play a key role in how the paste develops. They are therefore largely responsible for the quality of the cheese as regards its external appearance, texture (supple and creamy) and flavour. They are the only permanent flora on the surface of the ‘Chevrotin’ and are responsible for the fine white bloom that is the cheese’s signature finish. The low weight and small size of the cheese mean that it requires only a short maturation period and has a thin rind.
Successive generations of farmers have selected, at times through trial and error, a specific microflora that is adapted both to the microclimatic conditions and to the particular cheesemaking techniques used.

Reference to publication of the specification

(Article 5, paragraph 7, of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 (4))
https://www.inao.gouv.fr/fichier/CDCChevrotin.pdf


(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.

(2)  OJ L 93, 31.3.2006, p. 12. Replaced by Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

(3)  Replaced by Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

(4)  See footnote 3.