Publication of an application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
Date: 2014-11-26
Institutions: European Commission
Subjects: Portugal, consumer information, designation of origin, foodstuff, pigmeat, product quality








C_2014423EN.01000501.xml










26.11.2014   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 423/5





Publication of an application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
2014/C 423/07
This publication confers the right to oppose the application, pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1).
SINGLE DOCUMENT

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006


on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs
 (2)


‘PRESUNTO DE MELGAÇO’


EC No: PT-PGI-0005-01013-2.7.2012


PGI ( X ) PDO ( )

1.   Name


‘Presunto de Melgaço’

2.   Member State or Third Country

Portugal
3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Product type

Class 1.2. Meat products (cooked, salted, smoked, etc.)
3.2.   Description of product to which the name in 1 applies

‘Presunto de Melgaço’ is a smoked ham, the shape of which is obtained using a long and elongated cut, which carves the meat into a beak or tip, retaining the external rind and keeping the foot end/nail intact. It is sold either whole, sliced or in chunks.
It has the following characteristics:
Internal: At the time of cutting, the colour is a homogeneous red colour (ranging from pink to intense red); the colour is intense, homogenous and shiny. The fat has a yellowed white colour and is shiny. Intermuscular fat is present in moderate quantities.
Chemical properties:









Parameter


Medium


SD


Maximum


Minimum




pH


5,55


0,09


5,67


5,47




Moisture (%)


45,20


2,18


47,54


41,55




Protein (%)


31,68


2,12


33,56


28,75




Fat (%)


11,12


2,45


12,67


6,81




Chlorides (as NaCl) (%)


8,98


0,50


10,06


8,58




Organoleptic properties: The product is a smoked ham with an intense aroma. The fat has a balsamic aroma. The texture of the ham is moderately succulent, firm and tender, slightly fibrous and dry, with a very intense, slightly acidic flavour which is not particularly sweet, moderately salty and slightly smoky.
3.3.   Raw materials (for processed products only)

The raw material used in order to obtain this product comes from fresh shanks weighing over 10 kg, obtained from Bisara pigs, either thoroughbred or the result of cross-breeding, female or male (if male, castration occurs before they are four weeks old) and slaughtered once they have reached a live weight of at least 110 kg and are at least 32 weeks old.
‘Presunto de Melgaço’ is salty, owing to the use of sea salt without additives, and smoky, due to the use of the following types of dry and non-resinous woods:






—



Quercus (oak),










—



Cytisus (broom),










—



Betula celtiberica (Iberian white birch),










—



Erica (heather),










—



Cytisus baeticus (a member of the broom family).




After the smoking period, ‘Presunto de Melgaço’ is brushed with a mix of oil and spicy pepper.
3.4.   Feed (for products of animal origin only)

—
3.5.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

The specific production phases for ‘Presunto de Melgaço’ which take place in the identified geographical area are the trimming and massaging of the shanks; salting; drying/smoking; application of protection/repellant; ageing and storage.
3.6.   Specific rules on slicing, grating, packaging, etc.

—
3.7.   Specific rules concerning labelling

The label must bear the words ‘Presunto de Melgaço — Indicação Geográfica Protegida’ (Presunto de Melgaço — Protected Geographical Indication) and the ‘Presunto de Melgaço’ logo, shown below.



4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

The geographical area for the production of ‘Presunto de Melgaço’ covers all parishes of the Municipality of Melgaço: Alvaredo, Castro Laboreiro, Chaviães, Cousso, Cristóval, Cubalhão, Fiães, Gave, Lamas de Mouro, Paços, Paderne, Parada do Monte, Penso, Prado, Remoães, Roussas, S. Paio and Vila.
5.   Link with the geographical area

5.1.   Specificity of the geographical area

The geographical area in which ‘Presunto de Melgaço’ is produced enjoys a series of natural conditions conducive to its production, linked to altitude, a specific micro-climate and the types of wood used in the smoking process.
The Melgaço micro-climate is determined primarily by the orography of the region, which is characterised by winters which are long, cold and dry and summers which are warm and short. The average (minimum) temperature does not exceed 11 °C. The altitude in this geographical area is in excess of 1 300 metres.
Specific edaphoclimatic situations promote a specific plant community; the plant species characteristic of the Melgaço microclimate are oak (Quercus), Iberian white birch (Betula celtiberica) and broom (Cytisus spp. and Genista spp.), and both Cytisus baeticus and heather (Erica) are native to the region.
The origin of ‘Presunto de Melgaço’ dates back many centuries. In addition to small parcels cultivated under and resulting from subsistence farming, a number of domestic animals, such as Bisaro pigs, have also been reared. The difficulties involved in receiving supplies, owing to the distance between the municipality and major production and consumption centres, stimulated the ingenuity and local popular know-how as regards the traditional processes of salting and drying/smoking for the processing and conservation of pork meat. It is this knowledge which has been passed on from generation to generation until the modern day.
‘Presunto de Melgaço’ or ‘marrã’ was already one of the many ‘gifts’ to be paid to the Portuguese King Manuel in accordance with the royal charter of 3 November 1513 and to the 1483 Diocesan prelate in accordance with the lease for the rental of the Monastery of Fiães (Marques, José; 2004).
In the ‘Anuário do Distrito de Viana do Castelo’ (Vol. I, 1932) the following remark was made in connection with the municipality of Melgaço: ‘The hams which are known on the market as Presunto de Melgaço are extremely well renowned’.
In 1706, Father António Carvalho da Costa also made reference to Melgaço when he described one of the ‘great advantages’ of the ‘(…)Vale da Folia [now the parish of Remoães, in the municipality of Melgaço] [as being its] excellent hams (…)’.
In 1860, Silvestre Bernardo Lima described ‘Presunto de Melgaço’ as ‘(…) the great and famous hams from Melgaço which are produced from a type of Bisaro pig (…)’.
‘Presunto de Melgaço’ therefore enjoys a reputation which is first-rate and evidence of which dates back over more than 500 years.
5.2.   Specificity of the product

‘Presunto de Melgaço’ stands out from other products in the same category on the market owing to its long elongated cut, which carves the meat into a beak or tip, retaining the external rind, and keeping the foot end/nail intact. As a result it is visually very different from other products in the same category. Its sensory characteristics are also unique, particularly the slightly salty flavour with a hint of a smoky flavour.
The product’s reputation dates back to the Middle Ages: ‘(…) they would have to give “more than a dozen dried and cured hams”’ Marques, José (2004).
In 1886, José Augusto Vieira wrote: ‘(…) Presunto de Melgaço: You would need a thousand words to do justice to its fine and delicate taste, the divine aroma, its vibrant pink colour and the spectacular freshness of its essence (…)’.
The quantity and quality of the intra-muscular fat are also factors which distinguish this product in terms of the organoleptic and sensory characteristics of the pork meat, making the meat succulent, providing an aroma and softness which are unmistakable and unique to the market.
The following are a series of historical quotations regarding the sale of ‘Presunto de Melgaço’:
‘Presunto de Melgaço, and the municipality from which it comes, is justifiably well known and exported in great quantities to the entire kingdom and to Brazil. It is certainly the most palatable meat in all of Portugal and the ham which it produces is simply excellent’ (Augusto de Pinho Leal, 1875).
As early as 1886, José Augusto Vieira, stated, in connection with ‘Presunto de Melgaço’: ‘(…) a large number of transactions were made with Galicia and these famous hams are exported to the entire country (…)’.
5.3.   Causal link between the geographical area and the quality or characteristics of the product (for PDO) or a specific quality, the reputation or other characteristic of the product (for PGI)

‘Presunto de Melgaço’ already enjoys an immense reputation, which is linked to its region of origin, not to mention quality characteristics undeniably linked to both the municipality in which it is produced and the know-how acquired by its residents.
The original nature of ‘Presunto de Melgaço’ and the proof of its origins stem from a tradition passed on from generation to generation, which have been able to take full advantage of the natural and human resources at their disposal.
Indeed, the microclimate described above makes it possible to handle fresh meat under the recommended heat conditions. This is added to the know-how acquired by local people, who have expert knowledge of the shape of the cut, the type of cut/trimming required and how to massage the animal’s legs, closely linked to the conformity of the carcasses. It is only this local knowledge which makes it possible to establish with certainty the time period required for salting (which can vary from between 11 and 21 days) and depends on the weight of the pieces, in order to obtain the slightly salty flavour which is a specific characteristic of the product. This knowledge is also an essential factor in terms of the choice of the type of protection and repellent used, the ageing and conservation which have resulted in the proven excellent quality of this product.
The smoking process and the handling of woods used in combustion is well known amongst local people and have an impact on the length of time during which the pieces of meat are smoked. This process lasts approximately four months from salting, although the precise duration depends on how dry the wood is and the amount of smoke released during combustion, providing ‘Presunto de Melgaço’ with its slightly smoky taste.
As well as the historical references attesting to the origins and quality of ‘Presunto de Melgaço’, in recent decades several gastronomical and technical events, and also a wide variety of written references have highlighted the distinct quality and originality of this product.

Reference to publication of the specification

(Article 5(7) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 (3))
http://www.dgadr.mamaot.pt/images/docs/val/dop_igp_etg/Valor/CE_presunto_Melgaco_IG.pdf


(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.

(2)  OJ L 93, 31.3.2006, p. 12. Replaced by Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

(3)  See footnote 2.