Publication of an application pursuant to Article 6(2) of Council Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs
Date: 2012-06-28
Institutions: European Commission
Subjects: Germany, agricultural product, designation of origin, foodstuff, meat product, pigmeat, product designation








C_2012188EN.01000601.xml










28.6.2012   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 188/6





Publication of an application pursuant to Article 6(2) of Council Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs
2012/C 188/05
This publication confers the right to object to the application pursuant to Article 7 of Council Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 (1). Statements of objection must reach the Commission within six months of the date of this publication.
SINGLE DOCUMENT

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006


‘EICHSFELDER FELDGIEKER’/‘EICHSFELDER FELDKIEKER’


EC No: DE-PGI-0005-0773-14.04.2009


PGI ( X ) PDO ( )

1.   Name:

‘Eichsfelder Feldgieker’/‘Eichsfelder Feldkieker’
2.   Member State or third country:

Germany
3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff:

3.1.   Type of product:







Class 1.2 —


Meat products (cooked, salted, smoked, etc.)




3.2.   Description of product to which the name in point 1 applies:

Firm, uncooked sausage with a typical, slightly acidic taste.
Made from pork with typical spices (essential are: ground salt and pepper, black or white, often coriander), stuffed into sausage casings, bladder-shaped (calf’s bladder, linen bag, other natural casing formed into a bladder shape).
High-quality, firm cuts of pork from pigs with an extended fattening period must be used, slaughter weight at least 130 kg. The cuts of meat are from selected meat parts (muscle, thighs, back; as fat, only firm belly and back fat). After slaughtering, the pork meat must still be warm when production begins. ‘Warm meat processing’ means that the non-refrigerated meat must be transported no more than two hours, and processed no more than four hours, after slaughter.

Chemical properties







—


fat content not more than approx. 35 % in the matured product,










—


meat protein free of fibrous protein: not less than 15 %,










—


loss of raw material on maturing: not less than 33 %.





Physical properties







—


air-dried, firm,










—


careful maturing in a controlled environment, duration of maturing depending on the size of the bladder form,










—


climate chambers with flora cultivated over a number of decades; in the case of new climate chambers the flora is introduced with the pre-matured product,










—


size: diameter: 8-15 cm, length 15-30 cm; pre-sliced product: casings with a diameter of not less than 65 mm,










—


appearance: firm, uncooked sausage, normally pear-shaped, having a cut surface with a marked red colour, uniformly grained with pieces of fat meat and lean meat.





Organoleptic characteristics







—


select, aromatic taste nuances typical of this type of product, firm to the bite.




3.3.   Raw materials (for processed products only):

Certain requirements apply to the quality of the meat used for ‘Eichsfelder Feldgieker’. High-quality, firm cuts of pork are used that can come only from pigs with as high a slaughter weight as possible (at least 130 kg). For these high slaughter weights, crosses of native breeds with good stress resistance are used (e.g. Deutsches Landschwein, Deutsches Edelschwein and sometimes hogs of other breeds, though not of the Pietrain breed (susceptible to stress)). All parts separated from the carcass, including the best cuts, are used for this speciality sausage product.
The meat must be processed when still warm from slaughter, i.e. no more than four hours after slaughter.
3.4.   Feed (for products of animal origin only):

—
3.5.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area:

The entire production process, from the selection of suitable raw materials to the maturing of the sausage, must take place in the defined geographical area.
3.6.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc.:

—
3.7.   Specific rules concerning labelling:

—
4.   Concise definition of the geographical area:

The Eichsfeld region is in central Germany. It lies within the borders of several federal states. These include:






—


in Thuringia: the entire Eichsfeld district; in Unstrut-Hainich district only Dünwald, Anrode, Katharinenberg and Heyerode municipalities and the administrative community of Hildebrandshausen/Lengenfeld unterm Stein,










—


in Lower Saxony: in Göttingen district the Gieboldehausen municipalities group, the town of Duderstadt and, in the Radolfshausen municipalities group, only the Seeburg and Seulingen municipalities; in Northeim district only Katlenburg-Lindau municipality,










—


in Hessen: in Werra-Meissner district only Neuseesen and Werleshausen in Witzenhausen municipality.




5.   Link with the geographical area:

5.1.   Specificity of the geographical area:

The Eichsfeld is a historical region in the south-east of Lower Saxony and the north-west of Thuringia. It differs considerably from the regions surrounding it on account of its specific soil characteristics and climate (Wüstefeld, Karl: Eichsfelder Volksleben, Duderstadt 1919, p. 2, Annex 2). There is a long tradition of sausage-making, especially the manufacture of ‘Eichsfelder Feldgieker’, which is documented in literature, as can be seen from the following records:
During city inspections in 1718 in Hilkerode, among other things ‘fourteen good groschen were paid for every 3 1/2 pounds of felt kycker’ (Wandregister, now Archiv der Stadt Duderstadt).
A later document in the records of Bernshausen refers to ‘Eichsfelder Feldgieker’ in 1724:
According to the book of expenses of Duderstadt’s treasury, it paid 12 groschen ‘for two big “feld gücker” ’ served to and eaten by the cathedral dean and governor of the Eichsfeld region during another visit to Duderstadt from 21 to 23 October 1744.
An entry in the book of expenses of Duderstadt’s treasury in 1748 during a visit by the cathedral dean and governor on 4 November 1748 reads: ‘They were served sausages and “feltgieker” for breakfast and the midday meal’.
Around 1770, a record in Kloster Reifenstein’s book of finances states that ‘76 pounds were delivered to the Court in Mainz’; this uses the Latin name ‘Eichfeldicus Butulus’ (Deutschlands kulinarisches Erbe, Cadolzburg 1998, p. 63).
In 1927 and 1937 editions of the periodical ‘Unser Eichsfeld’, there is reference to the fact that the ‘Feldgieker’ was also very popular abroad as early as the 18th century. Joseph Rudolf (who died in 1816) reported that it was presented as a gift of thanks at the imperial castle in Prague where he was employed.
Those close to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe also appreciated the quality of the ‘Feldgieker’. On 4 April 1793, Karoline Jagemann, an actress and opera singer whose parents came from the Eichsfeld region, wrote to her father in Weimar about these sausages.
In 1844, a full description of the ‘Feldkyker’ was given: ‘Feldkyker’ is a long ‘Schlackwurst’ in a thick natural casing which may have derived its name from the fact that when it — the long variety — is placed in a trouser pocket or hunting bag it sticks out of the pocket or bag and ‘looks’ into the field. The base end is called the ‘Feldkyke’ of the first order which at the thickest end is made of intestine (Die goldene Mark Duderstadt, Carl Hellrung, 1844).
In 1919, Wüstefeld, a local historian, wrote (p. 13): ‘Simply because in their everyday life the people of the Eichsfeld region are no less than gourmets — the “Feldgieker” (a kind of “Mettwurst”) is worthy of praise beyond all measure, but it is not eaten every day —, they may afford themselves special entertainment on special occasions.’
The well-established nature of the processing of warm meat to make ‘Eichsfelder Feldgieker’ is in line with traditional practices in the region. Indeed, in the Eichsfeld region warm meat is even used to make fresh mince, a process forbidden in the rest of Germany, but allowed in the region because of a derogation in German meat-hygiene law. This legislative arrangement reflects the history of warm pigmeat having been processed in the Eichsfeld region for centuries and right up to the present day.
5.2.   Specificity of the product:


Objective properties

The processing of warm meat traditionally carried out in the Eichsfeld region is practised hardly anywhere else for producing uncooked sausage (except in the case of ‘Ahle Wurscht’ in Hesse). ‘Eichsfelder Feldgieker’ is the only Feldgieker sausage for which this method is used (it is not used for ‘Göttinger Feldgieker’). The processing of warm meat is one of the reasons for the outstanding quality of the product.
Warm meat differs from refrigerated meat in terms of the biochemical processes it undergoes. For a certain period after slaughter, these are similar to those that take place when the animal is still alive. They are caused by a higher pH value, the presence of an energy source (adenosine triphosphate, or ATP) in the cells of the still-warm carcass and the interplay between that and the contractile muscle proteins, myosin and actin. This interplay leads to different behaviour in the skeletal muscles, producing a more tender consistency and maintaining the separation between the two protein components of the muscle. This in turn improves water and fat retention, thus making the meat better for processing. There is less of a need for artificial additives.
The producers of ‘Eichsfelder Feldgieker’ either slaughter their own animals or source carcases — generally custom slaughtered — from the regional slaughterhouse in Heiligenstadt. This has a derogation and a list of processing plants that has been confirmed by the competent veterinary authority.
The ‘Eichsfelder Feldgieker’ can be characterised as a traditional regional speciality on account of the careful maturing process it undergoes in the special climate of the Eichsfeld region, the keen skills of the local butchers, the length of the maturing process, which depends on the size, and the bladder shape which is specific to the product and is hardly ever seen in any other sausages. The product’s special taste can be attributed to the use of climate chambers with flora maintained over a number of decades (in the case of new climate chambers the flora is introduced with the pre-matured product).

Renown

The product enjoys a special reputation because of its geographical origin. There is a link to the geographical origin of the product simply through its characteristic appearance, in that the particular shape is a centuries-old tradition in the Eichsfeld region and forms the basis for its reputation. The shape of the sausage is associated with the Eichsfeld far beyond the region itself, particularly throughout central Germany.
Numerous documentary records stretching back over a long period of time provide evidence of this from the past. Even today the ‘Eichsfelder Feldgieker’ is well known and popular as a culinary sausage speciality from the Eichsfeld, both within the region and beyond.
The product’s reputation is also illustrated by the following examples:






 


In literature:
‘Unser schönes Eichsfeld’ by Dieter Wagner (published by the Eichsfeld Heritage and Tourism Association, Mecke, 2000) mentions the ‘Eichsfelder Feldgieker’ on pages 160 and 190, referring to the ‘incomparable flavour’ of the products made from Eichsfeld farm-slaughtered meat, of which the Feldgieker is one. On page 190, the ‘Eichsfelder Feldgieker’ is described as the ‘king of Eichsfelder sausages’.
The section on ‘Eating and drinking’ on page 40 of Thüringen by Sucher and Wurlitzer (DuMont pocket travel guide, 2nd edition, 2006) contains the following text:
‘Almost every part of Thuringia has its own delicacy. The Eichsfelders, for example, swear not only by their Bratwurst, but also by the “Eichsfelder Feldgieker” and the “Eichsfelder Kälberblase”, two types of hard Mettwurst made from pork. (…)’.
The ‘Eichsfelder Feldgieker’ appears even in the subtitle of ‘Das Eichsfeld Kochbuch’ (Limosa 2008), where it is used as a synonym for the range of Eichsfelder cuisine. The subtitle reads: ‘… from Schmandkuchen (sour cream cake) to Feldgieker’.
‘Eichsfelder Küchengeschichten’ (Mecke, 2004, 3rd extended edition) mentions on page 21 that the ‘Eichsfelder Feldgieker’ matures until May and is not cut until the first cuckoo is heard. The book also contains a story (p. 22) involving the ‘Feldgieker’. It also recounts (p. 80) how on a particular occasion the last large ‘Feldgieker’ were eaten, with ‘Schmandbrot’ (bread with sour cream), as slaughter time was approaching.
The ‘Eichsfelder Heimatzeitschrift’ (Year 53, Vol. I, January 2009, p. 9 ff) records, in connection with the fact that at slaughter one of the helpers recited a long poem, that:
‘And it was also a good thing that the sausage making had finished by the time he had reached the 16th verse. Finally, the delights of the “king of Eichsfelder sausages”, known in the “Obereichsfeld” (upper Eichsfeld) as “Feldgieker” and in the “Untereichsfeld” (lower Eichsfeld) as “Kälberblase”, would be enjoyed after a year of maturing. (There follows a quote from Theodor Storm) (…) The Süsskuchen (a kind of gingerbread) is for the people of Mühlhausen what farm-slaughtered meat and the Feldgieker is for the Eichsfelders. (…)’.










 


At special events; in relation to tourism:
The Eichsfeld region, for example, makes extensive reference to the ‘Feldgieker’ as a product which creates an identity and as a means of advertising for tourism purposes. The homepage of ‘Eichsfeld Touristik’ reads:
‘The Eichsfeld region has long been known for its good cuisine. Its principal, well-known calling card is the “Eichsfelder Feldgieker” or “Eichsfelder Kälberblase”. The “Stracke” is the cylinder-shaped, “straight” version.’
At the ‘Rostkultur 2009’ sausage festival, the programme focused at 2.30 pm on ‘the “Eichsfelder Feldgieker”, etc.’, as can be seen from the ‘Thüringer Wurschtblatt’ and the programme itself.
According to the Heiligenstadt events calendar, the ‘cutting of the longest Feldgieker’ took place on 3 October 2008.




5.3.   Causal link between the geographical area and the quality or characteristics of the product (for PDO) or a specific quality, the reputation or other characteristic of the product (for PGI):

The eligibility of this designation for registration derives from its particular reputation and quality. Its reputation is based on the fact that the products originate in the area in question. The reputation of Eichsfeld sausage can be attributed to the centuries-long tradition of sausage-making in the Eichsfeld region. Its unmistakable taste is the result of the traditional, typical seasoning used and the special treatment which the sausage products undergo. The product also has special properties. The processing of the meat when it is still warm from slaughtering is a traditional method of production in the Eichsfeld region. It is only in this region that ‘Feldgieker’ are made from warm meat. This processing of the meat when it is still warm contributes to the special quality of the ‘Feldgieker’. The ‘Eichsfelder Feldgieker’ is looser than uncooked sausage made with cold meat. The casing generally separates easily from the contents. An important feature of a good uncooked sausage is the low content of free moisture (i.e. the aw value) in the warm meat; this depends on other factors, however, and so cannot be quantified. Low aw values discourage the growth of unwanted microbes. As warm meat contains only limited levels of free moisture enabling microbes to develop, the uncooked sausage produced from it has stable properties when it comes to maturing and storage.
Objectively speaking, the geographical origin has a decisive impact on the product’s characteristics; this is especially true of the climate and the flora in the climate chambers. Attempts have been made to produce the ‘Feldgieker’ in other regions. It was found that the typical taste did not develop there; the sausages tasted different.

Reference to publication of the specification:

Markenblatt Vol. 36 of 5 September 2008, Part 7a-aa, p. 46516
https://register.dpma.de/DPMAregister/geo/detail.pdfdownload/126


(1)  OJ L 93, 31.3.2006, p. 12.