Publication of an amendment application pursuant to Article 6(2) of Council Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs
Date: 2011-08-25
Institutions: European Commission
Subjects: France, cheese, designation of origin, product designation








C_2011247EN.01001101.xml










25.8.2011   


EN


Official Journal of the European Union


C 247/11





Publication of an amendment application pursuant to Article 6(2) of Council Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs
2011/C 247/06
This publication confers the right to object to the amendment application pursuant to Article 7 of Council Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 (1). Statements of objection must reach the Commission within six months of the date of this publication.
AMENDMENT APPLICATION

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006


AMENDMENT APPLICATION ACCORDING TO ARTICLE 9


‘LANGRES’


EC No: FR-PDO-0217-0121-07.07.2009


PGI ( ) PDO ( X )

1.   Heading in the specification affected by the amendment:








—





Name of product




—







Description




—





Geographical area




—





Proof of origin




—







Method of production




—







Link




—







Labelling




—





National requirements




—





Other (to be specified)




2.   Type of amendment(s):








—





Amendment to Single Document or Summary Sheet




—







Amendment to Specification of registered PDO or PGI for which neither the Single Document nor the Summary Sheet have been published




—





Amendment to Specification that requires no amendment to the published Single Document (Article 9(3) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006)




—





Temporary amendment to Specification resulting from imposition of obligatory sanitary or phytosanitary measures by public authorities (Article 9(4) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006)




3.   Amendment(s):

The general aim of the requested amendments is to set out all the details needed to consolidate the conditions governing the production of the milk used and the product itself.
These amendments serve to strengthen the link between the product and its geographical area and to provide greater protection of the product's characteristics.
3.1.   Point 2 of the specification:

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:
The description includes certain specific technical data used to describe ‘Langres’.
Visual appearance of the rind and shape of the cheeses: the purpose is, on the one hand, to render the description more accurate, and, on the other, to change the vocabulary used to better reflect the product as it actually is, as verified during checks on the product and in particular during organoleptic tests. The changes made have no bearing on the characteristics of the product.
Reference to the diameter of the moulds rather than to the diameter of the cheeses: this makes clear how the diameters of the cheeses are checked. Given that the diameters change slightly depending on the length of the maturation period and the conditions under which this takes place, describing the moulds was considered more reliable.
Despecifying the height of the cheeses and setting a maximum weight: To characterise the cheeses it was considered more appropriate to establish a maximum and minimum weight and maximum and minimum diameter.
Introduction of a medium-sized cheese: the medium-sized cheese, falling between the small and large varieties in size, helps the consumer better distinguish between the different standard sizes and ensures that cheeses with the designation ‘Langres’ conform more to standard types. Reducing the diameter of the small-sized cheese also makes it easier to distinguish it from the medium-sized cheese.
3.2.   Point 5 of the specification:

DESCRIPTION OF THE METHOD OF PRODUCTION OF THE PRODUCT:

Milk production


Dairy herd

The use of breeds adapted to a less intensive system of production strengthens the link between Langres and its geographical area.
The arrangements concerning the purchase of dairy cows and feed given to heifers are intended to ensure that the milk used to make ‘Langres’ cheeses comes from animals better adapted to the geographical area, given that the way they are managed and the feed they are given conforms to the specification for a period of time before production of the cheese begins.

Feed of the dairy herd

The high level of self-sufficiency in feed (80 %) of the area of production of the Langres PDO is one of the main criteria for the existence of a closer link to the geographical area. The characteristics of the natural environment and the expertise of the farmers, especially in relation to pasture management, are therefore reflected in the feed given to the dairy cows.
All the arrangements concerning the feed to be given to the dairy herd are intended to uphold the tradition of pasture farming in the geographical area of production of ‘Langres’ by ensuring that the feed contains at least a minimum proportion of grass and by preserving the particular qualities of the pasture grasses through maintaining the diversity of the natural flora and avoiding the addition of artificial agents.
The fact that a significant proportion of the feed consists of grass (grazing is mandatory for six months of the year, each dairy cow must have at least 20 acres of pasture on which to graze and the winter feed ration must consist of 30 % grass) is therefore an important aspect of the link to the geographical area. The restriction on the use of mineral fertiliser also plays a part in this, as it helps preserve the biodiversity of the pasturelands by limiting the amount of excess nitrogen which can lead to soil acidification and the concomitant prevalence of species which are unappetising to the grazing animals or even compete with the desired flora.
Fodder storage capacity is enough to cover 130 % of needs over the winter period, reflecting a widespread and long-standing tradition within the region. This allows farmers to attain their objectives in terms of feed self-sufficiency, by insuring against climate risks which can result in bad harvests. Farms which do not fulfil this criterion will be given a period of grace.
Authorised roughage and concentrated feed are defined in positive lists. The characteristics and arrangements for storage, preparation and distribution of the feed are also clarified. All of these new provisions reflect the traditional practices employed in the region where ‘Langres’ is produced. In particular, they help to exclude types of feed or conservation methods which could have a detrimental effect on the specific properties of the milk used to make ‘Langres’ cheese.
The list of feedingstuffs was also established to meet the requirement that the area of production be self-sufficient in feed, by helping ensure that the distributed feed is local in origin.
The restriction on the use of concentrated feed also serves as a tool to curb the intensification of production and favour the link to the geographical area.

Cheese processing

General rules had been drawn up which covered the use of treatments and additives in cheese-making. However, new techniques, some of which concern treatments and additives, such as microfiltration, partial concentration of milk and enzymes for the maturation process, have a potential impact on the characteristics of cheeses with designations of origin. In particular, certain enzyme additives appear to be incompatible with maintaining the key characteristics of PDO products.
It has therefore become necessary to lay down in point 5 of the specification of each product with a designation of origin the current practices regarding the use of treatments and additives for milk and cheese production, in order to prevent future practices not covered by the rules from undermining the characteristics of cheeses with designations of origin.
However, technical criteria had been incorporated into the specification in 1996. These included the duration of and temperature during the acidification phase and drainage phase, no turning over of the cheese during the drainage phase and the frequency of treatment during maturation.
The technical criteria defined in the new version of the specification for operations from curd formation until maturation help to provide a clearer framework for the cheesemaking process and ensure the requisite homogeneity for bringing the organoleptic qualities of ‘Langres’ to the fore. These conditions of production are also in keeping with the customs that have made ‘Langres’ famous throughout history.
Maturation of milk prior to renneting and use of mesophilic yeast: these ensure that the curd has a lactic quality, a key aspect of the cheesemaking process as far as the organoleptic qualities of the finished product are concerned.
Duration of coagulation: a very important parameter, given that it helps ensure that the curd is such as to give the ‘Langres’ cheese its distinctiveness.
Breaking up of the curd: permits pre-drainage in the basins, thereby making subsequent drainage easier. On the other hand, the ban on pre-drainage outside the basin is aimed at preserving the integrity of the curd.
Lifting the ban on washing and kneading the curd when it is being placed into the mould: given that these actions are typical of ‘renneted’ cheese production, the ban no longer serves any purpose, as the pH of the cheeses has been restricted to 4,6 at time of removal from the mould. This restriction, which guarantees the lactic quality of the cheeses, in actual fact precludes the need for washing or kneading.
Prescribing a temperature of at least 19 °C: favours spontaneous drainage and the maintenance of enzymatic activity, which facilitates acidification of the cheeses.
Restriction to two of the number of times the cheeses are turned over during drainage to two: ensures the development of a depression on the upper surface of the cheese, an essential characteristic of this designation.

Maturation of the cheeses

The clarifications made help better define the maturation phase in its broadest sense (comprising all the stages from re-wiping to maturation per se), an essential phase in cheese-making, given that it is during this time that the cheese develops to its full potential.
Prescribing temperature and humidity conditions (temperature conditions for the re-wiping phase, temperature and humidity conditions for the maturation phase per se)
The requirement that the cheese be treated in a humid environment helps ensure control over the development of specific ripening cultures which give ‘Langres’ cheese its particular organoleptic qualities.
Prescribing a minimum maturation period of eighteen days to take account of the newly defined medium-sized cheese.
3.3.   Point 6 of the specification:

ELEMENTS JUSTIFYING THE LINK WITH THE GEOGRAPHICAL AREA:
This section of the specifications has been rewritten in accordance with the structure of the single document (specificity of the geographical area/specificity of the product/causal link between the geographical area and the quality or characteristics of the product) and supplemented to reflect the clarifications concerning the method of production in terms of the conditions for producing the milk and processing the cheese which contribute to the characteristics and reputation of ‘Langres’.
SINGLE DOCUMENT

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006


‘LANGRES’


EC No: FR-PDO-0217-0121-07.07.2009


PGI ( ) PDO ( X )

1.   Name:

‘Langres’
2.   Member State or third country:

France
3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff:

3.1.   Type of product:







Class 1.3 —


Cheeses




3.2.   Description of the product to which the name in 1 applies:

This a soft, interior-ripened cheese. The rind is smooth, lightly wrinkled and smeared, and after maturation is golden yellow to reddish-brown in colour.
The cheese is initially white, turning a creamy colour as it matures. It may be cylindrical in the shape of a slightly truncated cone, with a depression in its upper surface (greater than 5 mm in depth), and comes in three sizes:






—


large made in a mould of between 16 and 20 cm in diameter, weighing between 800 and 1 300 g;










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medium made in a mould of between 9 and 10 cm in diameter, weighing between 280 and 350 g;










—


small made in a mould of between 7 and 8 cm in diameter, weighing between 150 and 250 g.




The cheese comprises at least 50 % fat when completely dry.
The dry matter content is greater than 42 %.
It is made exclusively using renneted cow's milk which has undergone maturation and whose coagulation period, lasting between two-and-a-half and five-and-a-half hours, ensures that the curd has a lactic quality.
The cheese is turned over no more than twice during drainage and undergoes treatment in a humid atmosphere during maturation for a period of between 15 and 21 days, depending on its size.
3.3.   Raw materials (for processed products only):

‘Langres’ is a cheese made exclusively from renneted cow's milk which is neither concentrated nor reconstituted and comes from the geographic area of production defined in point 4. The dairy raw materials may not be conserved by keeping them at below zero centigrade.
3.4.   Feed (for products of animal origin only):

The annual average amount of feed coming from the geographical area of the designation and distributed to the dairy herd makes up at least 80 % of the dry matter content of the total ration for the dairy herd.
The dairy herd has access to pasturage for at least six months of the year, during which each cow must be able to graze at least 20 ares of pasture.
The share of pasture in the winter feed ration is at least 30 % of the roughage distributed, of which at least half is hay or dried grass.
The following constitutes authorised roughage:






—


natural, temporary or artificial pasture grass, grazed, distributed fresh, preserved by silaging, wrapping, as hay or dried;










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whole-crop maize, distributed fresh, preserved by silaging or dried;










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fodder beet;










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grain, distributed fresh, preserved by wrapping or silaging;










—


cereal straw.




Green fodder, harvested properly, must be transported fresh to the farm and must not be reheated before being given to the dairy cows. The fodder may not be consumed later than the second milking after cutting.
The fodder beet must be carefully washed before distribution. The beet must be fed whole, clean and sound. If the beet is cut into pieces, this must be done on a daily basis.
Wrapped fodder is made from wilted fodder and contains at least 60 % dry matter.
Silage is authorised on the condition that it is stored on a concrete base; the unloading platform must also be made of concrete, unless there is an alternative separate loading system.
The grass used for silage is initially wilted and contains at least 30 % dry matter.
Hay must be stored in a dry shed.
From 1 January 2013 onwards, straw must be stored in a dry shed.
Concentrated and other dried feed is stored in a clean and dry place. Dry feed is feed containing more than 85 % dry matter.
The amount of concentrated feed provided may not exceed 7 kg per lactating dairy cow per day, averaged over a year.
Compound concentrated feed, whether complete or as a supplement consists of:






—


cereals or cereal by-products;










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oilseeds and protein crops;










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vegetable pulp;










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molasses;










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dried lucerne;










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milk-based products (lactoserum);










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mineral feed, with or without added vitamins.




The concentrated feed may be farm-based (mixed on the farm using ingredients produced on the farm) or commercial in origin.
The cereal grains are crushed solely by mechanical means.
Liquid feed is acceptable, on condition that its composition is clearly specified and is in accordance with the list of authorised feed.
The use of soda to treat cereal grains intended for use as feed for the dairy herd is prohibited.
Protected methionine and ammonia may not be added.
3.5.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area:

The milk must be produced, and the cheese must be manufactured and matured within the geographical area.
3.6.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc.:

—
3.7.   Specific rules on labelling:

All cheeses with the protected geographical indication ‘Langres’ must bear a label showing the name of the designation of origin along with the words ‘Appellation d'origine’, all in a font at least two thirds as large as the largest font shown on the label.
The product must bear the European Union logo ‘AOP’.
4.   Concise definition of the geographical area:

The geographical area comprises the pastures of Bassigny and the Langres plateau and surrounds.
The milk must be produced and the cheese manufactured and matured within the following geographical area:






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in the department of Côte-d'Or:






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the municipalities of Chaugey, Cussey-lès-Forges, Foncegrive and Vernois-lès-Vesvres;














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in the department of Haute-Marne:






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the districts of Chaumont and Langres;














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in the department of Vosges:






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the canton of Neufchâteau.








5.   Link with the geographical area:

5.1.   Specificity of the geographical area:

The geographical area comprises the pastures of Bassigny and the Langres plateau and surrounds.
It sits entirely on a Jurassic substratum which gives rise to clay-limestone soils with varying degrees of clay. The average altitude is between 400 and 500 metres above sea level.
Various writings (a transaction concerning manorial rights and an extract from the accounts of the town of Langres) attest to the fact that cheeses formed in a mould and subsequently drained, dried and probably matured began to be produced in the countryside around Langres in the Middle Ages.
Reference to a cheese named ‘Langres’ was made in a book by A. F. Pauriau in the 19th century (‘La laiterie, art de traiter le beurre, de fabriquer les beurres et les principaux fromages français et étrangers’ (The dairy farm, the art of handling and making butter and manufacturing the main French and foreign cheeses), 1874).
At that time, the cheese was produced solely on farms and sold mainly in the town of Langres, where fourteen establishments bought the young white cheese and matured it. It would appear that cheeses of different sizes existed at different times, depending especially on the purpose of sale. Nevertheless a general distinction can be drawn between small-sized cheeses for consumption in the relatively short term, and larger-sized cheeses better adapted to long-term storage and distribution to more distant destinations.
Little by little, wholesalers established themselves in the surrounding area. They obtained produce from the villages and carried on a progressively greater volume of trade. Goods were sent to Paris, Châlons, Bar-le-Duc, Nancy, the departments of Corrèze and Allier and sometimes to Geneva. The reputation of ‘Langres’ reached its zenith.
Subsequently the war of 1914-1918 marked the beginning of a decline in the on-farm production of ‘Langres’, which continued until the end of the 1940s. At the same time it was gradually superseded by dairy production in cheese dairies which had established themselves in the region since the beginning of the 20th century, but had subsequently turned to producing other types of cheese, in particular hard pressed cheeses.
It was only in 1950 that some artisanal cheese-makers began to make ‘Langres’ again, thereby boosting its production. In 1981 the ‘Syndicat interprofessionnel du fromage de Langres’ was established, which since 1986 has been working to obtain a registered designation of origin for ‘Langres’ and thereby cement its reputation.
5.2.   Specificity of the product:

‘Langres’ is a soft, interior-ripened cheese which after maturation varies between light yellow and brown in colour. Its main characteristic is the depression in its upper surface, referred to as a ‘fontaine’ or ‘cuvette’.
It comes in three different sizes: small, weighing between 150-250 g; medium, weighing between 280-350 g; and large, weighing between 800 and 1 300 g.
Production of the cheese takes place in two key stages; slow maturation of the milk, producing a lactic curd, and treatment during maturation of the cheese, which involves washing the cheese more than once with salt water.
5.3.   Causal link between the geographical area and the quality or characteristics of the product (for PDO) or a specific quality, the reputation or other characteristic of the product (for PGI):

The geographical area is based on the area in which ‘Langres’ has traditionally been produced and breeds of cattle long-established in the region (in particular Simmental) are farmed. The dairy farms must produce most of their milk from these breeds. This area also covers adjacent land where the main components of the natural environment are sufficiently analogous to the cheese's place of origin.
The soils have been conducive to the establishment of mixed farming and, more specifically, of cattle farming in the Bassigny microregion, which is more suited to grass production. The fact that a significant proportion of the grass in the feed of the dairy cows comes from pastures within the area of production ensures that the milk produced there reflects the characteristics of the natural environment.
Herd management practices are suited to the natural environment of the geographical area. For instance, the storage of large quantities of feed on the farm throughout the year is a long-standing practice across the region. This ensures that the feed is based consistently on grass. The pastures themselves cannot supply all the grass because of dry summers on the Langres plateau on the one hand and the relatively hydromorphic soils of the Bassigny microregion on the other.
Specific manufacturing conditions, such as maturation of the milk for a long period and the treatment of the cheeses during maturation reflect long-standing local know-how.
Similarly, restricting the number of times the cheese can be turned during drainage dates from at least the 19th century. It allows a depression (‘cuvette’) to form on the upper surface of the cheese. Production methods which ‘Langres’ producers are now obliged to employ ensure that this essential characteristic is preserved.
The current methods, which derive from historical practice, give ‘Langres’ the particular qualities which define its identity: a soft texture, washed rind, strong and characteristic smell, and a range of distinct sizes.

Reference to publication of the specification:

(Article 5(7) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006)
https://www.inao.gouv.fr/fichier/CDCLangres-avec-modification.doc


(1)  OJ L 93, 31.3.2006, p. 12.