Publication of an amendment application pursuant to Article 6(2) of Council Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs
Date: 2009-03-28
Institutions: European Commission
Subjects: France, cheese, designation of origin, location of production, milk product, product designation

C 74/74

EN

Official Journal of the European Union

28.3.2009

Publication of an amendment application pursuant to Article 6(2) of Council Regulation (EC)
indications and designations of origin for
No 510/2006 on the protection of geographical

agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2009/C 74/07)

This publication confers the right to object to the amendment application pursuant to Article 7 of Council
Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 (1). Statements of objection must reach the Commission within six months
from the date of this publication.

AMENDMENT APPLICATION

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006

Amendment application pursuant to Article 9

‘PICODON DE L'ARDECHE’ or ‘PICODON DE LA DROME’

EC No: FR-PDO-0117-0550-29.03.2006

PGI ( ) PDO ( X )

1. Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment:

— X Name of product

— X Description of product

—

—

Geographical area

Proof of origin

— X Method of production

— X Link

— X Labelling

— X National requirements

—

Other [to be specified]

2.

Type of amendment(s):

—

Amendment to Single Document or Summary Sheet

— X Amendment to specification of registered PDO or PGI for which neither the Single Document

nor the Summary has been published

—

—

Amendment to Specification that requires no amendment to the published Single Document
(Article 9(3) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006)

Temporary amendment to Specification resulting from imposition of obligatory sanitary or
phytosanitary measures by public authorities (Article 9(4) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006)

3. Amendment(s):

3.1. Name of product:

The PDO name is ‘Picodon’ (instead of ‘Picodon de l'Ardèche ou Picodon de la Drôme’).

Justif ication:

The term ‘Picodon’ is traditionally associated with the geographical area in which this PDO is produced.
Numerous documents (books, songs, letters, etc.) show that the term is used locally to refer to a local
cheese produced only in that area.

The use of this term to refer to cheeses that do not conform to the specifications of ‘Picodon de la
Drôme ou Picodon de l'Ardèche’ has caused confusion among consumers. Producers therefore wished
to revert to the traditional name by changing the PDO so that it is known only as ‘Picodon’.

(1) OJ L 93, 31.3.2006, p. 12.

28.3.2009

EN

Official Journal of the European Union

C 74/75

3.2. Description of product:

The cheese is shaped like a small, round puck of between 5 cm and 7 cm in diameter and 1,8 cm and
2,5 cm in height (instead of 1 cm and 3 cm), with a minimum weight of 60 g.

It has a thin rind with pale yellow or white mould, possibly specked with blue. The cheese itself is
white or yellow in colour, with an even and fine texture, giving a clean cut, though it can become
crumbly if matured for longer. It has a fresh, characteristic flavour that is neither too salty nor too
acidic. When ‘Picodon’ undergoes a special maturing process known as the Dieulefit method, the
resulting cheese has the following characteristics:

— diameter: 4,5 cm to 6 cm,

— height: 1,3 cm to 2,5 cm,

— minimum weight: 45 g.

Such cheese has a white, ivory, grey or light cream surface with slight traces of colour. It has a marbled
appearance when cut, with a fine, even and pliable texture. It has a fresh favour, which is characterised
by a slightly sharp and ‘goaty’ taste.

Justif ication:

The weight and diameter of the product and the appearance of the rind and the cheese have been
added to the product description. The height has been specified.

Cheese that is known as ‘affiné méthode Dieulefit’ (Dieulefit matured) has certain special characteristics
with regard to its diameter, height, minimum weight and appearance which should be specified.

3.3. Method of production:

The milk used should come only from milking herds made up of Alpine or Saanen breeds, their cross-
breeds or local stock.

There are specifications regarding the maximum number of goats per hectare, the origin of their feed
and its composition. No silage products or other fermented products may be used on the holding for
the purpose of feeding the goats. Where weather conditions allow, the goats must be outside, with
permanent access to an exercise yard.

There are specifications regarding the milk, the time limit and conditions for its use, renneting (using
rennet made from animal stomachs), the timing and duration of curdling (with specific conditions laid
down for farmhouse production), moulding (ladled by hand, without pre-draining, into a mould with a
bottom with rounded edges) salting and removal from the mould (after no more than 48 hours).

There are specifications relating to the authorised ingredients, stipulating that the milk may not be
concentrated and prohibiting the storage of products at temperatures below zero or in a modified
atmosphere during manufacture. In addition to the raw dairy materials, the only ingredients, produc-
tion aids or additives authorised in the milk during production are rennet, innocuous bacterial cultures,
yeasts, moulds, calcium chloride and salt.

There are specifications regarding the drying (lasting at least 24 hours) and maturing (at the specified
temperature and humidity for at least eight days after drying) stages. Cheeses may not leave the produc-
tion facility until at least 14 days after renneting (instead of drying and maturing for at least 12 days
following renneting), with the exception of fresh cheeses being taken to cheese maturers.

There are special conditions for manufacturing Dieulefit-matured cheese (namely, placing the cheese in
a cask for at least 15 days in conditions conducive to the development of surface moulds, followed by
a second stage of maturing in specific conditions, with the cheese being washed at least twice).

Justif ication:

The details added to the specification relate to practices already followed by producers when making
the product but hitherto not laid down in the specification.

C 74/76

EN

Official Journal of the European Union

28.3.2009

The producers considered it necessary to ask for them to be formally included in the specification in
order to protect the PDO from possible deviations. The additional information is therefore intended to
provide further details on the character of the product, while strengthening the link with its origins.

Furthermore, as regards the use of treatments and additives for cheeses (which is subject to general
rules), it appears that some new techniques, such as microfiltration, partial concentration of milk or
enzymes for the maturing process, have a potential impact on the characteristics of cheeses with desig-
nations of origin.

It has therefore been decided that PDO specifications should stipulate the current practices regarding
the use of treatments and additives for milk and in cheese manufacture, in order to prevent future prac-
tices not covered by the rules from undermining the characteristics of PDO cheeses.

3.4. Link:

The link includes additional information regarding:

— the history of the manufacturing of ‘Picodon’,

— the origin of the traditional name ‘Picodon’,

— the description of the geographical, climatic and soil characteristics of the area.

Justif ication:

The producers wished to place greater emphasis on the link with the geographical area.

3.5. Labelling:

All cheeses with the registered designation of origin ‘Picodon’ must bear a label showing the PDO
name in a font two thirds the size of the largest font used on the label and displaying the words ‘Appel-
lation d'Origine Contrôlée’ (Registered Designation of Origin). The name and address of the manufac-
turer must also be shown on the label.

Justif ication:

Lifting the requirement to affix the special logo for registered designations of origin.

3.6. National requirements

‘Décret du 29 décembre 1986’
“Picodon”’.

is replaced by ‘Décret relatif à l'appellation d'origine contrôlée

SUMMARY

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006

‘PICODON’

EC No: FR-PDO-0117-0550-29.03.2006

PDO ( X ) PGI ( )

This summary sets out the main elements of the product specification for information purposes.

1. Responsible department in the Member State:

Name:

Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité

Address: 51, rue d'Anjou

75 008 Paris
FRANCE

+33 153898000

+33 153898060

Tel.

Fax

E-mail:

info@inao.gouv.fr

28.3.2009

EN

Official Journal of the European Union

C 74/77

2. Group:

Name:

Address:

Syndicat Drôme Ardèche de Défense et de Promotion du Picodon AOC

48, avenue Louis Masson
26120 Chabeuil
FRANCE

Tel.

Fax

+33 475562606

+33 475420105

E-mail:

info@picodon-aoc.fr

Composition: Producers/processors ( X ) Other ( X )

3.

Type of product:

Class 1.3: Cheeses

4.

Specification:

(Summary of requirements under Article 4(2) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006)

4.1. Name:

‘Picodon’

4.2. Description:

‘Picodon’ is a goats' milk cheese shaped like a small round puck. It has a thin rind with pale yellow or
white mould, possibly specked with blue. The cheese itself is white or yellow in colour, with an even
and fine texture, giving a clean cut, though it can become crumbly if matured for longer. It has a fresh
flavour that is neither too salty nor too acidic.

Cheeses labelled as ‘affiné méthode Dieulefit’ (Dieulefit matured) have a white,
ivory, grey or light
cream surface with slight traces of colour. They have a marbled appearance when cut, with a fine, even
and pliable texture. Their fresh flavour is characterised by a slightly sharp and ‘goaty’ taste.

‘Picodon’ cheeses must weigh a minimum of 60 g, except if they are ‘affiné méthode Dieulefit’, in
which case their minimum weight is 45 g, owing to weight loss caused by washing during the longer
maturing process.

This little round cheese has a diameter ranging between 5 cm and 7 cm and a height of between
1,8 cm and 2,5 cm. As a result of the washing process, Dieulefit-matured ‘Picodon’ cheeses are smaller,
with a diameter of between 4,5 cm and 6 cm and a height of between 1,3 cm and 2,5 cm.

The fat content of the cheese (fat/dry matter) must be at least 45 %, and its dry matter content may not
be lower than 40 % per 100 g of cheese.

4.3. Geographical area:

The geographical area comprises all the communes in the departments of Ardèche and Drôme as well
as all the communes in the cantons of Valréas (department of Vaucluse) and Barjac (department of
Gard).

4.4. Proof of origin:

All milk producers, processing plants and maturing facilities fill in an identification declaration, which
is registered with the inspection authorities, allowing them to identify all operators involved. All opera-
tors must ensure that their records and any documents required for checking the origin, quality and
production conditions of the milk and cheese are made available to the inspection authorities. Further-
more, all operators must provide evidence of clear weekly accounts showing all incoming and outgoing
milk and cheese.

Lastly, products undergo analysis and organoleptic tests to ensure that they conform to the quality and
characteristics laid down in the PDO.

C 74/78

EN

Official Journal of the European Union

28.3.2009

4.5. Method of production:

The milk is produced and the cheese manufactured and matured in the geographical area.

The milk used to produce ‘Picodon’ comes exclusively from goats of the Alpine or Saanen breeds, their
crossbreeds or local stock. The goats are herded according to local custom. The land used on the
holding as pasture, for cheese production or to grow grain as feed for the herd must be at least one
hectare for every 10 goats. At least 80 % of the basic feed ration is made up of forage or grain from
within the geographical area. The goats are not fed silage products or any other fermented fodder at
any time of the year. Dehydrated products must not make up more than 20 % of their feed, except in
exceptional weather conditions. The herd's basic feed must come from the specified area.

It is prohibited to keep the goats in permanent confinement. Where weather conditions allow, they
must have access to an exercise yard.

‘Picodon’ is made exclusively with whole goats' milk. In addition to the raw dairy materials, the only
ingredients, production aids or additives authorised in the milk during production are rennet, innoc-
uous bacterial cultures, yeasts, moulds, calcium chloride and salt.

The addition of concentrated or powdered milk or milk proteins is banned, as is the use of ultrafiltra-
tion. For farmhouse production, raw milk must be used. It may be thermised for dairy production.

The milk is curdled by adding a lactic starter or some whey to which a little rennet of animal origin
has been added. The temperature of the milk during renneting must be between 20 °C and 25 °C. The
curdling process is slow, taking between 18 and 48 hours to reach a pH of 4 to 4,5.

For farmhouse cheeses, curdling must take place no more than 14 hours after the first batch of milk
was drawn.

The use of frozen curd is prohibited.

The curds are moulded by hand, without pre-draining, by ladling them into individual moulds, either
with or without the use of a distribution tray. The cheese is turned over at least once. Both sides are
salted using dry fine or semi-coarse salt. It is removed from the mould after no more than 48 hours.
After drying for at least 24 hours at a maximum temperature of 23 °C, the cheese is ready for
maturing.

It matures for a minimum of eight days at a temperature of between 12 °C and 18 °C and a relative
humidity of at least 80 %.

The cheese may be sold only after 14 days have elapsed since renneting.

It must be cooled at a temperature above 0 °C.

Dieulefit-matured cheese undergoes a longer maturing process, during which the cheese is periodically
washed:

— the first stage involves placing the cheese in a cask for at least 15 days in a humid location, at a

temperature of between 5 °C and 10 °C and a relative humidity of more than 80 %,

— the second stage of maturing takes place in a room saturated with humidity and at a temperature
of between 13 °C and 17 °C. This stage lasts more than eight days, during which the cheese is
washed at least twice,

— the drying phase lasts a minimum of 24 hours. Drying must occur naturally. Artificial drying may

be used only where weather conditions make natural drying impossible.

Such cheeses may be sold only after a month has elapsed since renneting.

4.6. Link:

Drôme and Ardèche were long considered to be among the leading goat-farming departments in
France. It is therefore hardly surprising that goats' cheese has been talked about in the region from
time immemorial.

The first written mentions of the term ‘Picodon’ date back to the 19th century.

28.3.2009

EN

Official Journal of the European Union

C 74/79

In particular, it is mentioned in Auguste Brossier's ‘Glossaire du patois de Die’ (Glossary of the Die
Dialect), which was published in 1863. A train running between Dieulefit and Montélimar was given
the nickname ‘le Picodon’ because of the ‘Picodon’ maturers who used it, leaving a characteristic odour
behind them.

The name ‘Picodon’ is derived from an Occitan word meaning ‘sharp-tasting little cheese’.

As goats' milk production tails off in the autumn and winter, cheese making used to be the only way
of preserving the surplus milk produced during the spring and summer, when lactation is at its peak.

The fact that cheese consumption was spread out over the winter months meant that the cheeses had
reached different stages of maturity.

The cheese could be consumed barely dry, after maturing for only a very short time, and was then
known as ‘picodon’ or, more generally,
‘tomme’. This consumption pattern continued, and it is here
that ‘Picodon’, as laid down in the specifications, with its short maturing period of a minimum of 14
days, could be thought to have its origins. However, during the winter, surplus ‘Picodon’ cheeses were
stored in earthenware jars.

‘The Picodon was wrapped in leaves and stored in a “bitcho” (a type of two-handled earthenware pot).
Every 15 days, the cheese was taken out of its pot, washed and rewrapped in leaves’. In this way, the
cheese could be kept for a long time, taking on characteristic smells and flavours.

This can be seen as a variation of the Dieulefit maturing technique as recognised by law.

‘Picodon’ is produced in the hills that rise up on both sides of the Rhône valley. It is typical of this
poor, arid, mountainous region, whose geology and climate will support nothing but goat farming. It
continues to be made in the area, as passed down from generation to generation, and is an indispen-
sable source of income.

The production criteria are defined in such a way as to preserve the specific features of the area and
enable them to be reflected in the product.

4.7. Inspection body:

Name:

Institut national de l'Origine et de la Qualité (INAO)

Address: 51, rue d'Anjou

75008 Paris
FRANCE

Tel.

Fax

+33 153898000

+33 153898060

E-mail:

info@inao.gouv.fr

The Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité is a public administrative body with legal personality
and reports to the Ministry of Agriculture.

It is responsible for monitoring the production conditions for products with a designation of origin.

Name:

Direction Générale de la Concurrence, de la Consommation et de la Répression des Fraudes
(DGCCRF)

Address: 59, Boulevard Vincent Auriol

75703 Paris Cédex 13
FRANCE

Tel.

Fax

+33 144871717

+33 144973037

E-mail: —

The DGCCRF is a department of the Ministry of the Economy, Finance and Industry.

C 74/80

EN

Official Journal of the European Union

28.3.2009

4.8. Labelling:

All cheeses with the registered designation of origin ‘Picodon’ must bear a label showing the PDO
name in a font two thirds the size of the largest font used on the label and displaying the words ‘Appel-
lation d'Origine Contrôlée’ (Registered Designation of Origin). The name and address of the manufac-
turer must also be shown on the label.

Cheeses that have been matured in accordance with the Dieulefit method must bear the words ‘affiné
méthode Dieulefit’ on their label.