Publication of an application pursuant to Article 6(2) of Council Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs
Date: 2007-12-19
Institutions: European Commission
Subjects: Portugal, designation of origin, labelling, location of production, meat product, mode of production, pigmeat, product designation, product quality

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OTHER ACTS

COMMISSION

Publication of an application pursuant to Article 6(2) of Council Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 on
the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and
foodstuffs

(2007/C 308/08)

This publication confers the right to object to the application pursuant to Article 7 of Council Regulation
(EC) No 510/2006. Statements of objection must reach the Commission within six months from the date of
this publication.

SUMMARY

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006

‘PRESUNTO DE SANTANA SERRA’or ‘PALETA DE SANTANA DA SERRA’

EC No: PT/PGI/005/0439/24.11.2004

PDO ( ) PGI ( X )

This summary sets out the main elements of the product specification for information purposes.

1. Responsible department in the Member State:

Name:

Gabinete de Planeamento e Políticas

Address: Rua Padre António Vieira, n.o 1, 8o

P-1099-073 Lisboa

(351) 213 81 93 00

(351) 213 87 66 35

Tel.

Fax

E-mail:

gppaa@gppaa.min-agricultura.pt

2. Group:

Name:

Address:

Tel.

Fax

ACPA — Associação de Criadores de Porco Alentejano

Rua Armação de Pêra, n.o 7
P-7670-259 Ourique

(351) 286 51 80 30

(351) 286 51 80 37

E-mail:

acpaourique@mail.telepac.pt

Composition: Producers/processors ( X ) Other ( )

3.

Type of product:

Class 1.2: Meat-based products (cooked, salted, smoked, etc.)

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4.

Specification:

(Summary of requirements under Article 4(2) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006)

4.1. Name:

‘Presunto de Santana da Serra’ or ‘Paleta de Santana da Serra’

4.2. Description: Presuntos and paletas produced from legs and shoulders respectively of pigs (other than
breeding animals) of the Alentejana breed entered in the Portuguese herd book in the Alentejana breed
Section, reared in a specified manner and slaughtered when they are 12 to 24 months old. The salting,
post-salting, drying/curing, ageing, cutting and packing are governed by well-defined rules.

Presuntos consist of hind legs severed at the level of the pig's ischio-pubic symphysis, while paletas are
made from its forelegs. The presunto and paleta are defined anatomically and in terms of muscle since
there is a layer of covering fat around the latter. Shape and appearance: while the presunto is cut in a
round shape and the paleta may be anything from oval to round, the outer skin and hoof are present in
both cases. Weight: in excess of 5 kg in the case of the presunto, and in excess of 3,5 kg in the case of
the paleta. When cut, the meat has a dark red, oily, glossy and marbled appearance, with streaks of
intramuscular fat. The texture is soft and not very fibrous. The fat is oily, fluid, bright, white to pearly
and has a pleasant taste. The flavour is not very salty or spicy, lingering, intense and pleasant, and the
aroma is pleasantly reminiscent of oak plantations. As a result of their highland (‘montanha’) origin,
the Presuntos and Paletas de Santana da Serra are thus more rustic and marked in their texture and
flavour than the smoother corresponding varieties from the Alentejo plains.

4.3. Geographical area: The boundaries of the geographical area in which the raw materials are produced
(i.e. where the animals are born, reared, fattened and slaughtered, the carcases are butchered and the
legs and feet are obtained) are set naturally, by the location of the ‘montado’ (oak plantation and pig
pasture), by the presence of holdings able to practise a montanheira type of farming, and by the rules
governing slaughter and cutting and the production of Alentejo pig's legs and shoulders. The area
comprises the following municipalities and parishes: Abrantes, Alandroal, Alcácer do Sal (except the
parish of Santa Maria do Castelo), Alcoutim, Aljezur (parishes of Odeceixe, Bordeira, Rogil and
Aljezur), Aljustrel, Almodôvar, Alter do Chão, Alvito, Arraiolos, Arronches, Avis, Barrancos, Beja,
Borba, Campo Maior, Castelo Branco, Castelo de Vide, Castro Marim (parishes of Odeleite and Azinhal),
Castro Verde, Chamusca, Coruche, Crato, Cuba, Elvas (except the parish of Caia e S. Pedro), Estremoz,
Évora, Ferreira do Alentejo, Fronteira, Gavião, Grândola (except the parish of Melides), Idanha-a-Nova,
Lagos (parish of Bensafrim), Loulé (parishes of Ameixial, Salir, Alte, Benafim and Querença), Marvão,
Mértola, Monchique (parishes of Monchique, Marmelete and Alferce), Monforte, Montemor-o-Novo,
Mora, Moura, Mourão, Nisa, Odemira (except the parishes of Vila Nova de Mil Fontes and S. Teotónio),
Ourique, Penamacor, Ponte de Sôr, Portalegre, Portel, Redondo, Reguengos de Monsaraz, Sabugal,
Santiago do Cacém (except the parish of S. André), Sardoal, São Brás de Alportel, Serpa, Sines, Silves
(parishes of S. Marcos, S. Bartolomeu de Messines and Silves), Sousel, Tavira, (parish of Cachopo),
Vendas Novas, Viana do Alentejo, Vidigueira, Vila Velha de Ródão and Vila Viçosa.

The geographical area in which processing (production, cutting, slicing and packaging) takes place is set
naturally, being limited to the parishes of Santana da Serra, Garvão, Ourique, Panóias, Santa Luzia and
Conceição in the municipality of Ourique, the specific micro-climate conditions in this mountain area
contrasting sharply with those on the Alentejo plain from which it rises abruptly. The differences in
altitude, temperature and humidity in these parishes require a different method of production, in par-
ticular in terms of the cutting and the duration of the salting, maturation and ageing. The products are
also differentiated by their organoleptic characteristics: the cut is more rounded, the meat darker on
cutting, with a less tender and succulent texture, a less delicate and less spicy flavour and a less smooth
and delicate aroma.

4.4. Proof of origin: Pigs of the Alentejana breed must be born and reared on registered holdings that are
subject to control arrangements. At birth the animals are entered in the appropriate herd book.
Slaughter, butchering, processing, slicing, and packaging must be carried out on premises that are
approved for that purpose by the inspection body, are located in the geographical areas concerned and
are subject to control arrangements. Approval shall be dependent on a prior verification of the condi-
tions under which production and manufacturing take place, in particular as regards the origin of the
raw materials used and the manner in which the latter are processed/cut/sliced/packaged and the char-
acteristics of the final product. Specifications and control arrangements have been adopted which apply
to the entire chain of production and to all those involved.

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A comprehensive traceability system implemented by the producers themselves makes it possible to
monitor the entire production circuit from the raw material to the final product (‘from the montado to
the table’) and, on the basis of the number on the certification mark on whole hams or on the packages
of sliced meat, identify the ear-tag number of the animals.

At the end of the production process only products which fulfil all the specifications and have under-
gone suitable documented checks — including laboratory tests and submission to a tasting panel —
may bear the certification mark, logo and name Presunto de Santana da Serra — PGI or Paleta de Santana
da Serra — PGI.

4.5. Method of production: The pigs, of the Alentejana breed, are reared under extensive and semi-extensive
conditions, mostly in the open air, in areas featuring a minimum of 40 holm oak or cork trees per
hectare and a maximum density of one pig per hectare of montado. The animals tend to be reared
extensively, feeding on cereal waste and by-products, grasses, legumes (e.g. peas and vetches) and even
small mammals and birds, eggs, reptiles, molluscs, worms, etc., as is the wont of omnivorous animals.
It is only when there is a shortage of food in the field that the animals may be given supplements (up
to 30 % of their diet) from outside the region. The animals invariably undergo a finishing phase in
which they spend 60 to 90 days under a montanheira system (i.e. feeding on acorns and other montado
products), and must replace at least three arrobas (45 kg) of body weight in this way. The pigs are
slaughtered at between 12 and 24 months, the minimum weight of each carcase being 90 kg. The legs
and shoulders are marked individually by means of a numbered tag. The legs and shoulders must, after
trimming, weigh a minimum of 7,5 kg and 5 kg respectively, and the hoof must still be attached.
Depending on the weight of the legs and shoulders the subcutaneous fat may be trimmed. The proces-
sing of the hind- and forelegs, based on authentic and unvarying local methods derived from the
know-how of the local population and from the highland conditions, comprises the following: cutting,
salting, rinsing, post salting (sweating), drying/curing and ageing. It is in the course of this process that
the presuntos and paletas slowly acquire the appearance, colour, aroma and texture that make them
unique.

Salting

Duration

Temperature

Moisture

Washing and rinsing

Duration

Temperature

Post salting

Duration

Manufacturing: technical parameters

Presunto de Santana da Serra

Paleta de Santana da Serra

1 to 1,5 days per kg of fresh shank

1 to 1,5 days per kg of fresh shoulder

0 to 5 °C

85-90 %

0 to 5 °C

85-90 %

1 to 3 days

1 to 3 days

45 to 60 days

30 to 45 days

Temperature

3-5 °C

3-5 °C

Moisture

80 % or more

80 % or more

Drying/maturation

Duration

Temperature

Moisture

4 to 5 months at least

2 to 3 months at least

Natural
in
temperature and moisture

conditions

terms

of

Natural conditions in terms of tempera-
ture and moisture

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Manufacturing: technical parameters

Presunto de Santana da Serra

Paleta de Santana da Serra

6 months at least

3 months at least

Natural
in
temperature and moisture

conditions

terms

of

Natural conditions in terms of tempera-
ture and moisture

Ageing

Duration

Temperature

Moisture

Presuntos and Paletas de Santana da Serra may be marketed whole, in pieces or sliced, with or without
bone. The cutting, slicing and boning may be carried out only on premises situated within the geogra-
phical area of production, insofar as special know-how is associated with these operations, a know-how
which relates to the shape, delicate aromas and complex flavours of each piece. Before a piece is
selected for cutting, specialists from the region determine the optimum curing stage, and knowledge-
able and trained tasters carry out a detailed organoleptic assessment of the product and its suitability
for cutting. In order to maximise the yield from each piece the cutting must be performed by highly
trained specialists who, by means of expert cuts, can make use of all the muscle tissue in the piece and
produce extremely thin slices that fully exploit the product's organoleptic potential. The fat on the meat
— which has its own flavour, aroma, colour and brilliance — deteriorates rapidly when in contact with
the air or when the temperature is high. Accordingly, the work described above has to be carried out
on premises that are suitable microbiologically and in terms of temperature and moisture, in order not
to impair the delicate flavour and enable the product to be packaged promptly, thereby avoiding undue
exposure to the air. It should be added that this work is accompanied by organoleptic tests carried out
by specially trained personnel. The aim of these measures is to ensure that the product is fully traceable
and is not impaired, above all organoleptically, that the consumer, far from being misled, is supplied
with a product that is genuine and was produced in its region of origin, and that checks can be carried
out throughout the production cycle.

4.6. Link: Presuntos and Paletas de Santana da Serra are produced in a region where soils are poor and the
climate markedly hot and dry in the summer and cold and dry in the winter. The flora that is able to
withstand these conditions and which can be exploited is the holm oak/cork plantation (montado) and
the vegetation associated with it. The Alentejo pig is the animal that best exploits those natural condi-
tions, since it can be reared in the open and allowed to feed mainly on the natural products associated
with that environment (grasses, acorns, cereals and pulses and small animals) under a specific system
known as montanheira.

This type of animal husbandry and nutrition gives the meat special characteristics in terms of both
muscle and fat cover.

The special climatic conditions obtaining in Santana da Serra led to the development of specific
know-how which, since it enables the pigmeat to be dried naturally, without resorting to smoke or any
external agent with the exception of salt, results in a number of differences, in particular as regards:

— the cutting and dressing of the meat,

— the duration of the salting,

— the duration of the various stages of the work.

This is why the presuntos and paletas of Santana da Serra have a more rounded cut, are darker when
cut, have a less tender and less succulent texture, have a less delicate and less spicy flavour and a less
smooth and delicate aroma than other hams produced in lower-lying areas on the Alentejo plains in
general.

These products reflect the harsher and more mountainous conditions of Santana da Serra and are
therefore more rustic and marked in their texture and flavour than those of the smoother varieties
from the Alentejo plains.

Furthermore, in addition to the foregoing organoleptic characteristics, which link it to the region of
origin, the fame and reputation of the product are such that it is echoed in the coat of arms of the
municipal authorities of Santana da Serra and of other parishes in the geographical area.

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The link between the product and the region is also based on the following factors:

Historical: There are documents dating from 1310 and 1320 which tell of the importance attached by
King Dinis, known as ‘o Lavrador’, to preserving the ‘montados’ (oak plantations and pastures) of
Ourique. A Law of 1699 laid down the rules for the use of the montados and the amounts payable to
the king on the basis of the number of pigs present on the royal montados. As recently as the
20th century, ‘guardas dos montados’ (guardians of the montados) were still posted there to prevent the
theft of acorns. The older inhabitants can recall when, at the Garvão fair, people might perhaps buy
‘Presuntos’ were for the well-off only. In
100 grams of chitterlings and half a kilogram of pig fat.
January 1928 the price of a local presunto reached PTE 16,00 (EUR 0,08), a sizeable sum in those days,
and there are also written records, dating from around 1950, of the taxes paid by small-scale producers
of sausages in the municipality of Ourique.

Soil and climate: The vegetation is xerophytic and the landscape characterised by pastureland (in the
north of the municipality) and dense holm oak and cork plantations. Santana da Serra (in the south of
the municipality) is located in the foothills of the Serra do Caldeirão. The local terrain acts as a wind-
break for the defined processing area. There is no doubt that this factor fosters optimum conditions for
the production of
loins and other pork products. The Serra do Caldeirão
provides the area with a specific climate. The average air temperature is in the order of 15 to 16 °C,
with the average minimum temperatures between 4,6 and 14,7 °C and the average maximum between
13,8 and 32,2 °C in the coldest and hottest months respectively, which is in stark contrast with the
Alentejo, as a whole.

leg and shoulder ham,

Human: A number of traditions are associated with the consumption of these products, which are
never presented ready-cooked. In earlier times Presuntos or Paletas de Santana da Serra tended to be
served only on festive occasions or as a gift to honoured guests.

4.7. Inspection body:

Name:

Agricert — Certificação de Produtos Alimentares, Lda

Address: Av. de Badajoz, n.o 3

P-7350-903 Elvas

(351) 268 62 50 26

(351) 268 62 65 46

Tel.

Fax

E-mail:

agricert@agricert.pt

Agricert is recognised as complying with Standard 45011:2001.

4.8. Labelling: The following must appear on the labelling: Presunto de Santana da Serra — PGI or Paleta de
Santana da Serra — PGI and the relevant Community logo. The labelling must also bear a certification
label including the name of the product and the forms of wording concerned, the name of the inspec-
tion body and a serial number (i.e. a numerical or alphanumeric code used for tracing the product).
The following pictogram, representing the Order of Santiago, to which the parishes which constitute
the geographical processing area belonged in former times, is hot-branded on the outer skin of Presunto
de Santana da Serra or of Paleta de Santana da Serra: