Commission Regulation (EC) No 1291/2003 of 18 July 2003 supplementing the Annex to Regulation (EC) No 2400/96 on the entry of certain names in the "Register of protected designation of origin and protected geographical indications" provided for in Council Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92 on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs (Pane di Altamura)
Date: 2003-07-18
Institutions: European Commission
Subjects: Apulia, bakery, designation of origin, labelling, location of production, product designation, product quality

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COMMISSION REGULATION (EC) No 1291/2003

of 18 July 2003

supplementing the Annex to Regulation (EC) No 2400/96 on the entry of certain names in the
‘Register of protected designation of origin and protected geographical indications’ provided for in
Council Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92 on the protection of geographical indications and designa-
tions of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs (Pane di Altamura)

THE COMMISSION OF THE EUROPEAN COMMUNITIES,

Having regard to the Treaty establishing the European
Community,

Having regard to Council Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92 of 14
July 1992 on the protection of geographical
indications and
designations of origin for agricultural products and food-
stuffs (1), as last amended by Commission Regulation (EC) No
806/2003 (2), and in particular Article 6(3) and (4) thereof,

Whereas:

(1)

(2)

(3)

(4)

In accordance with Article 5 of Regulation (EEC) No
2081/92, Italy forwarded to the Commission an applica-
tion for the registration of the name ‘Pane di Altamura’
as a protected designation of origin.

The application was found, in accordance with Article
6(1) of that Regulation, to comply with the Regulation,
most notably in that
the particulars
provided for in Article 4 of the Regulation.

includes all

it

The Hellenic Republic sent the Commission a statement
of objection within the meaning of Article 7 of Regula-
tion (EEC) No 2081/92 as a result of the publication in
the Official Journal of the European Communities (3) of the
main elements relating to the application for registration
of
‘Pane di Altamura’. The objection related to non-
compliance with the conditions referred to in Article 2
of the Regulation. In the case of a designation of origin,
production, processing and preparation are to take place
in the defined geographical area. However, in the case of
‘Pane di Altamura’, according to the product specifica-
tion, the bread was made from raw material, semolina,
produced by five different municipalities: Altamura,
Gravina di Puglia, Poggiorsini, Spinazzola and Minervo
Murge, while the area for processing into bread was
restricted to the municipality of Altamura.

The Portuguese Republic sent the Commission a state-
ment of objection within the meaning of Article 7 of
Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92 as a result of the publica-
tion in the Official Journal of the European Communities of
the main elements relating to the application for regis-
tration of ‘Pane di Altamura’. The objection related to
the same arguments as those put forward by the Hellenic
Republic. It was pointed out, in addition, that registra-
tion should have been applied for as a protected geogra-
phical indication and not as a protected designation of
origin.

(1) OJ L 208, 24.7.1992, p. 1.
(2) OJ L 122, 16.5.2003, p. 1.
(3) OJ C 156, 30.5.2001, p. 10.

(5)

(6)

(7)

(8)

(9)

The statements of objection from the Hellenic Republic
and the Portuguese Republic were admissible within the
meaning of Article 7(4) of the Regulation. The Commis-
sion asked the Member States concerned to seek agree-
in accordance with their
ment among themselves
internal procedures.

the

In its reply to the statements of objection of the Hellenic
Republic and the Portuguese Republic,
Italian
Republic stated it agreed with the comments made. It
also pointed out that defining the area of production of
the raw material and the milling area differently from
the area of production of the bread was the result exclu-
sively of a clerical error, and provided a reworded
version of the paragraph defining the geographical area
in the specification summary which states that
the
production area for ‘Pane di Altamura’ is the same as
that for the raw material.

The Hellenic Republic replied that it no longer had any
objection to the registration of the name ‘Pane di Alta-
mura’.

The Portuguese Republic replied that it maintained its
objection to the registration of the name ‘Pane di Alta-
mura’ as a protected designation of origin. It pointed out
that it appeared inappropriate for the geographical name
‘Altamura’ to be used to refer to a product originating in
the entire geographical area corresponding to the above-
mentioned five municipalities
there was
evidence in the summary statement that only the muni-
cipality of Altamura was famed for the production of
the bread and not the entire region. For these reasons
the name should, it seemed, have been registered as a
protected geographical indication.

and that

The Italian Republic sent the Commission an application
for registration of the name ‘Pane di Altamura’ as a
designation of origin, modified in relation to the initial
application. The geographical area of production of the
bread covers the five abovementioned municipalities and
coincides,
therefore, with the geographical area of
production of the raw material.

(10)

Since no agreement has been reached between the Italian
Republic and the Portuguese Republic within three
months, the Commission must take a decision in accor-
dance with the procedure laid down in Article 15.

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(11)

(12)

(13)

The Commission requested the opinion of the Scientific
Committee for designations of origin, geographical indi-
cations and certificates of specific character. The Scien-
tific Committee expressed the view that the ‘characteris-
tics presented in the application for Pane di Altamura
refer both to the municipality of Altamura and to
specific areas outside the municipality, where produc-
tion, processing and preparation also take place. The
particular geographical environment with its inherent
natural and human factors, the quality of raw materials
and production as well as the tradition going back to the
Middle Ages could be presumed to be the same in the
whole area included in the application’. The Scientific
the application fulfilled the
Committee found that
in Article 2(2)(a) of Regulation
requirements set out
(EEC) No 2081/92. It added that the use of the geogra-
phical name of a municipality to designate a geogra-
phical area for a designation of origin which is different
and defined for that purpose is quite frequent and legally
acceptable where justified.

The Commission has taken note of the advisory opinion
of the Scientific Committee. It considers the explanations
put forward by the Italian authorities admissible. More-
over, the formal analysis of the product specification
relating to the name ‘Pane di Altamura’ has not revealed
any obvious error of assessment.

The name should therefore be entered in the Register of
protected designations of origin and protected geogra-
phical
indications and hence be protected throughout
the Community as a protected designation of origin.

(14) Annex I to this Regulation supplements the Annex to
Commission Regulation (EC) No 2400/96 (1), as last
amended by Regulation (EC) No 1257/2003 (2).

(15)

The measures provided for in this Regulation are in
the Regulatory
accordance with the opinion of
Committee on Protected Geographical
Indications and
Protected Designations of Origin,

HAS ADOPTED THIS REGULATION:

Article 1

The name in Annex I to this Regulation is added to the Annex
to Regulation (EC) No 2400/96 and entered in the ‘Register of
protected designation of origin and protected geographical indi-
cations’ provided for in Article 6(3) of Regulation (EEC) No
2081/92 as a protected designation of origin (PDO).

The main elements in the product specification are set out in
Annex II. They replace those published in the Official Journal of
the European Communities (see footnote 3).

Article 2

into force on the 20th day
This Regulation shall enter
following that of its publication in the Official Journal of the
European Union.

This Regulation shall be binding in its entirety and directly applicable in all Member States.

Done at Brussels, 18 July 2003.

For the Commission

Franz FISCHLER

Member of the Commission

(1) OJ L 327, 17.12.1996, p. 11.
(2) OJ L 177, 16.7.2003, p. 3.

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ANNEX I

FOODSTUFFS REFERRED TO IN ANNEX I TO REGULATION (EEC) No 2081/92

Bread, pastry, cakes, confectionery, biscuits and other baker's wares

ITALY

Pane di Altamura (PDO)

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ANNEX II

COUNCIL REGULATION (EEC) No 2081/92

APPLICATION FOR REGISTRATION: ARTICLE 5

PDO( X ) PGI ( )

National application No 5/2000

1. Responsible department in the Member State

Name:

Address:

Tel.:

Fax:

Ministero delle Politiche Agricole e Forestali

Via XX Settembre 20, I-00187 Roma

(06) 481 99 68

(06) 42 01 31 26

2. Applicant group

2.1. Name: Consorzio per la tutela del Pane di Altamura

2.2. Address: Corso Umberto I 5, I-70022 Altamura (BA)

2.3. Composition: Craft-trade bakers

3.

Type of product

Bread — Class 2.4.

4.

Specification

(Summary of requirements under Article 4(2))

4.1. Name

Pane di Altamura

4.2. Description

‘Pane di Altamura’ is a baker's product obtained from flour of durum-wheat semolina made by milling durum-
wheat grain of the ‘appulo’, ‘arcangelo’, ‘duilio’ and ‘simeto’ varieties produced in the area defined in the rules of
production, used on their own or in combination and making up at least 80 % of the total, provided they are
produced in the defined area of production.

The product is produced by the traditional method, using sourdough leavening, sea salt and water.

On placing on the market, it must have the following characteristics:

— the loaves, having the characteristic aroma and weighing not less than 0,5 kg, come in two traditional forms;
the first type, known locally as ‘U sckuanète’ (folded loaf), is a tall loaf formed by folding the dough from either
side into the centre and is baked without the edges of the loaves coming into contact with each other; the
second type, known locally as ‘a cappidde de prèvete’ (priest's hat), is lower and, on baking, the edges of the
loaves do not touch each other.

— the crust must not be less than 3 mm thick; the texture of the crumb, which is a straw-yellow colour, has air-

bubbles of uniform size; the moisture content must not exceed 33 %.

4.3. Geographical area

The defined geographical area of production of the grain and the ground semolina used comprises the municipali-
ties of Altamura, Gravina di Puglia, Poggiorsini, Spinazzola and Minervino Murge in the province of Bari, as laid
down in Article 5 of the rules of production and shown on the appended map.

The area of production of ‘Pane di Altamura’ coincides with the territory defined above, in which over the centuries
production of the product which originated in the 16th century in the municipality of Altamura has come to be
concentrated. The ovens for baking the bread must preferably be wood- or gas-fired, the heat being applied indir-
ectly or directly, exceptions being allowed by law.

4.4. Proof of origin

The origin of ‘Pane di Altamura’ is linked to the peasant-farmer tradition of the area of production.

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A staple of the inhabitants' diet in the uplands of the Murgia region, the bread was traditionally presented in large
loaves (U sckuanète or folded loaf); the dough was mainly mixed and kneaded within the home before being
prepared for the oven and baked in public ovens, with the attendant social and cultural implications arising from
this link between the private and public spheres.

The baker marked the initials of the head of the family on the loaves with a wooden or iron stamp before putting
them in the oven.

The main characteristic of the bread, which still applies today, was its long-lasting quality, a necessary criterion for
food to sustain peasants and shepherds during the week or, more often, the fortnight they spent in isolated farms
scattered through the uplands of the Murgia region. Their diet consisted almost wholly of bread seasoned with salt
and oil and dipped in boiling water. Until the middle of last century the streets of Altamura resounded at first light
with the baker's cry, telling the inhabitants that the fragrant bread had come out of the oven.

Although it concerns the Murgia region rather than Altamura, the first reference to the product's place of origin is
found in Book I, V of Horace's Satires. Visiting the countryside where he had spent his youth in the spring of 37
BC, the Roman poet spoke of the bread, ‘far the best bread to be had, so good that the wise traveller takes a supply
of it for his onward journey’.

The traditional status of breadmaking in Altamura is confirmed in the city's municipal statutes of 1527 (Statuti
Municipali della città fatti nell'anno 1527) and the Bollettino dell'Archivio-Biblioteca-Museo-Civico (1954, pp. 5 to
49) gives the relevant articles on the ‘Dazio del forno’ (oven duty), transcribed by G. De Gemmis.

‘Le Carte di Altamura’ (Codice Diplomatico Barese, 1935) contains documents relating to the levying of or exemp-
tion from duties, transcribed by A. Giannuzzi.

Another document dating back to 1420 exempted the clergy of Altamura from the duty on bread.

The custom of baking in public ovens derived from the prohibition on citizens ‘of any station or condition’ (di ogni
stato o condizione) baking any type of bread or other baker's wares in their own homes, under penalty of a fine,
the charge being equal to one third of the total cost of breadmaking.

The typical loaves baked traditionally for peasants, shepherds and their families therefore developed in an agricul-
tural and sheep-rearing society and, they are still produced by Altamura's bakers: they are large loaves produced
from durum-wheat flour, leavening, salt and water and involve a process in five stages: mixing and kneading the
dough, giving it a form, leaving it to rise, shaping it and baking it in a wood-fired oven. These characteristics set it
apart from all other types of bread.

Milling also took place entirely in Altamura, where at least 26 milling works were in operation in the early 17th
century.

In conclusion, despite the changes and adaptations that have taken place, the bread currently baked in Altamura in
the Murgia region may be regarded as descending directly from the bread of those peasants and shepherds
according to a breadmaking tradition that has continued unbroken since the Middle Ages.

The origin of production of the PDO ‘Pane di Altamura’ is certified by the inspection body referred to in point 4.7,
subject to compliance with many requirements to be met by the producers concerned throughout the production
cycle.

When the PDO is granted, the rules of production provide for:

— lists of farmers producing durum wheat in the area concerned, to be presented to the relevant municipalities in

the area defined in point 4.3,

— lists of millers processing grain of wheat producers in the abovementioned area into semolina and flour for

breadmaking, to be presented to the relevant municipalities,

— a list of bakers producing ‘Pane di Altamura’ in accordance with the rules of production set out in point 4.5

below, to be presented to the municipality of Altamura.

The above lists must be submitted to the Apulia Region and to the body appointed or authorised to carry out
inspection activities in accordance with Article 10 of Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92.

The inspection body will also ensure that the leavening, the quantities of ingredients and the composition of the
dough used, the procedure and duration of kneading, the rising, shaping and reshaping of the loaves, the baking,
withdrawal from the oven and the placing on the market of the bread with the relevant marks comply with the
rules outlined in point 4.5 below.

The water to be used for the dough is certified by the body responsible for the aqueduct: it must be analysed once
a year and must comply with the criteria set out in point 4.5 below and the certificates issued by the managing
body must be published at the town hall of the municipality of Altamura.

The inspection body will also be responsible for ensuring that the wheat used for breadmaking meets the require-
ments in point 4.5.

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4.5. Method of production

The wheat used for breadmaking must meet the following requirements:

Durum wheat
Electrolytic weight ≥
Protein (tot N × 5,70) ≥
Ash <
Dry gluten ≥

Durum wheat semolina
Gluten index <
Yellow index ≥

Unit requirements

78 kg/hl

11 % of dry matter

2,2 % of dry matter

9,0 % of dry matter

80

20

The raw material consists of ground durum-wheat semolina produced by milling durum wheat of the ‘appulo’,
‘arcangelo’, ‘duilio’, ‘simeto’ varieties grown in the area defined in point 4.3, used on their own or in combination
and making up at least 80 % of the total, the remainder being made up of other varieties grown in that area.

The chemical and physical characteristics of the grain and semolina must be certified and must meet the criteria set
out above.

The flour must be produced by milling processes that are fully in line with those currently applied in the Altamura
area as described below. The mills operating in the abovementioned area are equipped with sets of steel cylinders
working at different, but progressively similar, speeds. They turn at around 300 revolutions per minute at an oper-
ating temperature of not more than 40 °C. Through its ‘clapping’ action, another set of cylinders breaks open most
of the cells of the aleuronic layer of the grain and impregnates the durum-wheat semolina with valuable wheat-
germ oil.

The mills processing the semolina are located in the area of production of the wheat defined in point 4.3.

‘Pane di Altamura’ bread is produced as follows:

Dou g h

1. The leaven is made by adding ingredients at least three times to increase the fermenting dough, i.e. water and

durum-wheat meal (20 % of the durum-wheat flour used).

2. Quantities and composition of the mix: 100 kg durum-wheat flour requires 20 kg (20 %) leaven, 2 kg (2 %)

sea salt and approximately 60 litres (60 %) water at a temperature of 18 °C.

3. Mixing should take 20 minutes, using a kneading machine with mechanical arms.

The water must comply with the following requirements:

— colourless and free of taste and smell,

— temperature of between 12 and 15 °C,

— ph of between 7 and 8,5,

— total hardness of between 14,5 and 15,5 GF,

— calcium content (Ca++) of between 46 and 55 mg/l,

— alkalinity (CaCO3) of between 130 and 160 mg/l,

— no nitrous ions present,

— sodium content of less than 5 to 6 mg/l,

— potassium content of between 1,5 and 2,5 mg/l,

— faecal coliforms-enterococci-spores 0 nct/100 ml.

R i si ng a n d f i r st pe ri od lef t to sta nd

Once kneading has been completed, the dough must be covered with a cotton cloth of a given thickness so it rises
at an even temperature. The covered dough must be left to stand for at least 90 minutes.

S h a p i n g a nd se c o n d p e r i o d l e f t to s t a nd

Once the previous phase is over, the dough is weighed and shaped manually into loaves so it can develop a natural
fibrous crust. It is left to stand for 30 minutes.

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Fur th er shap i ng a nd thi rd pe r i od le ft to sta nd

The dough is shaped again and then left to stand for at least 15 minutes.

Plac i n g i n ov e n a nd baki ng

Before it is baked, each loaf (pagnotta) is turned over and pushed gently by hand into the oven. The oven should
preferably be wood- or gas-fired and heated indirectly and it must reach a temperature of 250 °C. Ovens heated
directly and used for baking ‘Pane di Altamura’ must be fired with oakwood.

The first phase of baking takes place with the oven door open. After 15 minutes, the door is closed and the bread
is baked for a further 45 minutes.

T a ki ng the br ea d ou t of th e ove n

The oven door is left open for at least five minutes to allow the steam to escape, so the bread can dry and become
crusty. The loaves are then taken out and placed on wooden boards.

4.6. Link

The bread is considered ‘unique’ because it is made from the best durum wheat and is produced in an environment
with special geographical and environmental features characteristic of the north-west Murgia region, using potable
water normally consumed in the area.

The area concerned is the only part of Apulia where the structural, geomorphological and environmental character-
istics are close to the original features. These factors are as follows:

— the area was never under the sea,

— karstic forms and systems are rare both on the surface and underground,

— autochthonous hydrography,

— on entering the underground water system, the average temperature of the water is 12 °C,

— a humid mesothermic Mediterranean climate,

— aseptic environment as a result of solid precipitation,

— permeability of soil 10-5 ÷ 10-6 cm/sec,

— the chemical composition of the soil.

Stretching over more than 44 000 hectares, Altamura is the most highly populated and economically important
centre of the north-central Murgia region, which is the leading cereal-growing area of Apulia after the Capitanata;
along with sheepfarming, cereal growing is traditionally the main productive activity of the region.

In the city of Altamura, which boasts a centuries-old breadmaking tradition, there are 35 bakeries with a daily
bread output of around 60 tonnes; after 20 % has been put aside for local requirements, the remainder is sent to
the main national markets.

Morphologically and structurally, the cereal-growing area lies on the Apulian plateau, which escaped from being
covered by the sea and has always been above sea level since the end of the Mesozoic era to the present day, a
peculiarity of the area since it is the only part of Apulia with characteristics that are similar to the original struc-
tural, geomorphological and environmental features.

The second environmental peculiarity stems from the fact that surface and underground karstic systems are rare
and consequently have no, or only slight, influence on the present underground water network.

The third peculiarity stems from the area's autochthonous hydrography whereby the karstic water table is fed solely
by a proportion of the rain that falls on it.

The average temperature of rainfall (around 12 °C) on entering the underground water system is peculiar to the
area.

The climate in the area is characterised by dry summers and winters with low liquid and solid precipitation, the
latter averaging 20 to 35 cm. This helps to maintain the environmentally aseptic conditions.

Half of the liquid precipitation, which averages 600 mm annually, is absorbed underground while the other half is
taken up by the topsoil.

On account of the area's young, undeveloped karstic features, moisture that forms in rock fissures and its products
of alteration are restored to the topsoil by capillary action in periods of drought: this phenomenon is a further
feature peculiar to the area.

The geological, hydrological and meteorological parameters help make the natural environment in the area
concerned unique.

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4.7. Inspection body

Name:

Address:

4.8. Labelling

Bioagricoop — Scrl

Via Fucini 10, I-40033 Casalecchio di Reno (Bologna)

The finished product is packaged in a microporous thermoformable material with a label giving:

1. a list of the ingredients and the firm's name;

2. the sell-by date;

3. the mark.

Alternatively, it may be presented unwrapped, with simply a label in organic material setting out the above and the
words ‘Pane di Altamura’.

Labels must show the appended mark, which must be accompanied by the protected designation of origin.

The graphic symbol comprises a Samnite shield quartered two by two red and white and surmounted by a crown
with the words ‘Pane DOP di Altamura’ in three horizontal lines across the centre of the oval field.

The printing specifications of the mark are given below:

— stippling: 100 % pantone 323 cv,

— Pane DOP di Altamura: Arial font, size 71,1 bold typeface, width of oval border 0,040,

— major axis of oval 17,5 cm,

— minor axis of oval 13 cm,

— the logo must not be smaller than 10 cm × 7 cm,

— yellow: 100 % pantone yellow cv,

— violet: 100 % pantone 228 cv,

— white: 100 % pantone trans. white cv,

— green: 100 % pantone 334 cv,

— red: 100 % pantone warm red cv,

— border of oval: 100 % pantone violet cv.

4.9. National requirements

EC No: G/IT/00136/2000.06.22

Date of receipt of the full application: 22.2.2001.