Publication of an application for registration pursuant to Article 6(2) of Council Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92 on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin
Date: 2001-05-30
Institutions: European Commission
Subjects: Apulia, bread, designation of origin, location of production, product quality, wheat

C 156/10

EN

Official Journal of the European Communities

30.5.2001

Publication of an application for registration pursuant to Article 6(2) of Council Regulation (EEC)
No 2081/92 on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin

(2001/C 156/04)

This publication confers the right to object to the application pursuant to Article 7 of the abovementioned
Regulation. Any objection to this application must be submitted via the competent authority in the
Member State concerned within a time limit of six months from the date of this publication. The
arguments for publication are set out below, in particular under 4.6, and are considered to justify the
application within the meaning of Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92.

COUNCIL REGULATION (EEC) No 2081/92

APPLICATION FOR REGISTRATION: ARTICLE 5

PDO (x)

PGI (

)

National application No: 5/2000

1. Responsible department in the Member State

Name:

Ministero delle Politiche agricole e forestali

Address: Via XX Settembre, 20, I-00187 Roma

Tel.

Fax

(39-06) 481 99 68

(39-06) 420 31 26.

2. Applicant group

2.1. Name:

Consorzio per la tutela del Pane di Altamura

2.2. Address: Corso Umberto I 5, I-70022 Altamura (BA)

2.3. Composition: Craft-trade bakers.

3. Type of product: Bread (cid:151) Class 2.4.

4. Specification

(Summary of requirements under Article 4(2))

4.1. Name: (cid:145)Pane di Altamura(cid:146)

4.2. Description: (cid:145)Pane di Altamura(cid:146) is a baker’s product obtained from flour of durum-wheat semolina
(cid:145)duilio(cid:146) and (cid:145)simeto(cid:146) varieties
made by milling durum-wheat grain of the (cid:145)appulo(cid:146),
produced in the area defined in the rules of production, used on their own or in combination
and making up at least 80 % of the total, provided they are produced in the defined area of
production.

(cid:145)arcangelo(cid:146),

The product is produced by the traditional method, using sour dough leavening, sea salt and water.

On placing on the market, it must have the following characteristics:

(cid:151) the loaves, having the characteristic aroma and weighing not less than 0,5 kg, come in two
traditional forms; the first type, known locally as (cid:145)U sckuanŁte(cid:146) ((cid:145)folded loaf(cid:146)), is a tall
loaf
formed by folding the dough from either side into the centre and is baked without the edges of
the loaves coming into contact with each other; the second type, known locally as (cid:145)a cappidde
de prŁvete(cid:146) ((cid:145)priest’s hat(cid:146)), is lower and on baking the edges of the loaves do not touch each
other,

30.5.2001

EN

Official Journal of the European Communities

C 156/11

(cid:151) The crust must not be less than 3 mm thick; the texture of the crumb, which is a straw-yellow

colour, has air bubbles of uniform size; the moisture content must not exceed 33 %.

4.3. Geographical area: The defined geographical area of production of the grain and the ground
semolina used comprises the municipalities of Altamura, Gravina di Puglia, Poggiorsini, Spinazzola
and Minervino Murge in the province of Bari, as laid down in Article 5 of the specification.

The area of production of (cid:145)Pane di Altamura(cid:146) falls entirely within the administrative territory of the
municipality of Altamura in the province of Bari. The ovens for baking the bread must preferably
be wood- or gas-fired, the heat being applied indirectly or directly, exceptions being allowed by
law.

4.4. Proof of origin: The origin of (cid:145)Pane di Altamura(cid:146) is linked to the peasant-farmer tradition of the

area of production.

A staple of the inhabitants’ diet in the uplands of the Murgia region, the bread was traditionally
presented in large loaves ((cid:145)U sckuanŁte(cid:146) or (cid:145)folded loaf(cid:146)); the dough was mainly mixed and kneaded
within the home before being prepared for the oven and baked in public ovens, with the attendant
social and cultural implications arising from this link between the private and public spheres.

The baker marked the initials of the head of the family on the loaves with a wooden or iron stamp
before putting them in the oven.

The main characteristic of the bread, which still applies today, was its long lasting quality, a
necessary criterion for food to sustain peasants and shepherds during the week or, more often,
the fortnight they spent in isolated farms scattered through the uplands of the Murgia region.
Their diet consisted almost wholly of bread seasoned with salt and oil and dipped in boiling water.

Until the middle of the last century the streets of Altamura resounded at first light with the baker’s
cry, telling the inhabitants that the fragrant bread had come out of the oven.

Although it concerns the Murgia region rather than Altamura, the first reference to the product’s
place of origin is found in Book I, V of Horace’s Satires. Visiting the countryside where he had
spent his youth in the spring of 37 BC, the Roman poet spoke of the bread, (cid:145)far the best bread to
be had, so good that the wise traveller takes a supply of it for his onward journey(cid:146).

The traditional status of breadmaking in Altamura is confirmed in the city’s municipal statutes of
1527 (Statuti Municipali della citt(cid:224) fatti nell’anno 1527) and the Bollettino dell’Archivio-Biblioteca-Mu-
seo-Civico (1954, pp. 5-49) gives the relevant articles on the (cid:145)Dazio del forno(cid:146) (oven duty), tran-
scribed by G. De Gemmis.

(cid:145)Le Carte di Altamura(cid:146) (Codice Diplomatico Barese, 1935) contains documents relating to the levying
of or exemption from duties, transcribed by A. Giannuzzi.

Another document dating back to 1420 exempted the clergy of Altamura from the duty on bread.

The custom of baking in public ovens derived from the prohibition on citizens (cid:145)of any station or
condition(cid:146) (di ogni stato o condizione) baking any type of bread or other baker’s wares in their own
homes, under penalty of a fine, the charge being equal to one-third of the total cost of breadma-
king.

loaves baked traditionally for peasants, shepherds and their

The typical
families therefore
developed in an agricultural and sheep-rearing society and they are still produced by Altamura’s
bakers: they are large loaves produced from durum wheat flour, leavening, salt and water and
involve a process in five stages: mixing and kneading the dough, giving it a form, leaving it to rise,
shaping it and baking it in a wood-fired oven. These characteristics set it apart from all other types
of bread.

Milling also took place entirely in Altamura, where at least 26 milling works were in operation in
the early 17th century.

C 156/12

EN

Official Journal of the European Communities

30.5.2001

In conclusion, despite the changes and adaptations that have taken place, the bread currently baked
in Altamura in the Murgia region may be regarded as descending directly from the bread of those
peasants and shepherds according to a breadmaking tradition that has continued unbroken since
the Middle Ages.

The origin of production of the PDO (cid:145)Pane di Altamura(cid:146) is certified by the inspection body referred
to in point 4.7, subject to compliance with many requirements to be met by the producers
concerned throughout the production cycle.

When the PDO is granted, the rules of production provide for:

(cid:151) lists of farmers producing durum wheat in the area concerned, to be presented to the relevant

municipalities in the area defined in point 4.3,

(cid:151) lists of millers processing grain of wheat producers in the abovementioned area into semolina

and flour for breadmaking, to be presented to the relevant municipalities,

(cid:151) a list of bakers producing (cid:145)Pane di Altamura(cid:146) in accordance with the rules of production set out

in point 4.5 below, to be presented to the municipality of Altamura.

The above lists must be submitted to the Apulia Region and to the body appointed or authorised
to carry out inspection activities in accordance with Article 10 of Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92.

The inspection body will also ensure that the leavening, the quantities of ingredients and the
composition of the dough used, the procedure and duration of kneading, the rising, shaping and
reshaping of the loaves, the baking, withdrawal from the oven and the placing on the market of
the bread with the relevant marks comply with the rules outlined in point 4.5 below.

The water to be used for the dough is certified by the body responsible for the aqueduct: it must
be analysed once a year and must comply with the criteria set out in point 4.5 below and the
certificates issued by the managing body must be published at the town hall of the municipality of
Altamura.

The inspection body will also be responsible for ensuring that the wheat used for breadmaking
meets the requirements in point 4.5.

4.5. Method of production

The wheat used for breadmaking must meet the following requirements:

Durum wheat

Electrolytic weight ‡

Protein (tot N (cid:215) 5,70) ‡

Ash <

Dry gluten ‡

Durum wheat semolina

Gluten index <

Yellow index ‡

Unit requirements

78 kg/hl

11 % of dry matter

2,2 % of dry matter

9,0 % of dry matter

80

20

The raw material consists of ground durum-wheat semolina produced by milling durum wheat of
the (cid:145)appulo(cid:146), (cid:145)arcangelo(cid:146), (cid:145)duilio(cid:146), (cid:145)simeto(cid:146) varieties grown in the area defined in point 4.3, used on
their own or in combination and making up at least 80 % of the total, the remainder being made
up of other varieties grown in that area.

The chemical and physical characteristics of the grain and semolina must be certified and must
meet the criteria set out above.

30.5.2001

EN

Official Journal of the European Communities

C 156/13

The flour must be produced by milling processes that are fully in line with those currently applied
in the Altamura area as described below. The mills operating in the abovementioned area are
equipped with sets of steel cylinders working at different, but progressively similar, speeds. They
turn at around 300 revolutions per minute at an operating temperature of not more than 40 (cid:176)C.
Through its (cid:145)clapping(cid:146) action, another set of cylinders breaks open most of the cells of the
aleuronic layer of the grain and impregnates the durum-wheat semolina with valuable wheat-germ
oil.

The mills processing the semolina are located in the area of production of the wheat defined in
point 4.3.

(cid:145)Pane di Altamura(cid:146) bread is produced as follows:

Dough

1. The leaven is made by adding ingredients at least three times to increase the fermenting dough,

i.e. water and durum wheat meal (20 % of the durum wheat flour used).

2. Quantities and composition of the mix: 100 kg durum wheat flour requires 20 kg (20 %)
leaven, 2 kg (2 %) sea salt and approximately 60 litres (60 %) water at a temperature of 18 (cid:176)C.

3. Mixing should take 20 minutes, using a kneading machine with mechanical arms.

The water must comply with the following requirements:

(cid:151) colourless and free of taste and smell,

(cid:151) temperature of between 12 (cid:176) and 15 (cid:176)C,

(cid:151) pH of between 7 and 8,5,

(cid:151) total hardness of between 14,5 and 15,5 GF,

(cid:151) calcium content (Ca++) of between 46 and 55 mg/l,

(cid:151) alkalinity (CaCO3) of between 130 and 160 mg/l,

(cid:151) no nitrous ions present,

(cid:151) sodium content of less than 5-6 mg/l,

(cid:151) potassium content of between 1,5 and 2,5 mg/l,

(cid:151) faecal coliforms-enterococci-spores 0 nct/100 ml.

Rising and first period left to stand

Once kneading has been completed, the dough must be covered with a cotton cloth of a given
thickness so it rises at an even temperature. The covered dough must be left to stand for at least
90 minutes.

Shaping and second period left to stand

Once the previous phase is over, the dough is weighed and shaped manually into loaves so it can
develop a natural fibrous crust. It is left to stand for 30 minutes.

Further shaping and third period left to stand

The dough is shaped again and then left to stand for at least 15 minutes.

Placing in oven and baking

Before it is baked, each loaf ((cid:145)pagnotta(cid:146)) is turned over and pushed gently by hand into the oven.
The oven should preferably be wood- or gas-fired and heated indirectly and it must reach a
temperature of 250 (cid:176)C. Ovens heated directly and used for baking (cid:145)Pane di Altamura(cid:146) must be
fired with oakwood.

C 156/14

EN

Official Journal of the European Communities

30.5.2001

The first phase of baking takes place with the oven door open. After 15 minutes, the door is
closed and the bread is baked for a further 45 minutes.

Taking the bread out of the oven

The oven door is left open for at least five minutes to allow the steam to escape, so the bread can
dry and become crusty. The loaves are then taken out and placed on wooden boards.

4.6. Link: The bread is considered (cid:145)unique(cid:146) because it is made from the best durum wheat and is
produced in an environment with special geographical and environmental features characteristic of
the north-west Murgia region, using potable water normally consumed in the area.

The area concerned is the only part of Apulia where the structural, geomorphological and
environmental characteristics are close to the original features. These factors are as follows:

(cid:151) the area was never under the sea,

(cid:151) karstic forms and systems are rare both on the surface and underground,

(cid:151) autochthonous hydrography,

(cid:151) on entering the underground water system, the average temperature of the water is 12 (cid:176)C,

(cid:151) a humid mesothermic Mediterranean climate,

(cid:151) aseptic environment as a result of solid precipitation,

(cid:151) permeability of soil 10^-5 (cid:247) 10^-6 cm/sec,

(cid:151) the chemical composition of soil.

Stretching over more than 44 000 hectares, Altamura is the most highly populated and econ-
omically important centre of the north-central Murgia region, which is the leading cereal-growing
area of Apulia after the Capitanata; along with sheepfarming, cereal growing is traditionally the
main productive activity of the region.

In the city of Altamura, which boasts a centuries-old breadmaking tradition, there are 35 bakeries
with a daily bread output of around 60 tonnes; after 20 % has been put aside for local
requirements, the remainder is sent to the main national markets.

Morphologically and structurally, the cereal-growing area lies on the Apulian plateau, which
escaped from being covered by the sea and has always been above sea level since the end of
the Mesozoic era to the present day, a peculiarity of the area since it is the only part of Apulia
with characteristics that are similar to the original structural, geomorphological and environmental
features.

The second environmental peculiarity stems from the fact that surface and underground karstic
systems are rare and consequently have no, or only slight, influence on the present underground
water network.

The third peculiarity stems from the area’s autochthonous hydrography whereby the karstic water
table is fed solely by a proportion of the rain that falls on it.

The average temperature of rainfall (around 12 (cid:176)C) on entering the underground water system is
peculiar to the area.

The climate in the area is characterised by dry summers and winters with low liquid and solid
precipitation, the latter averaging 20-35 cm. This helps to maintain the environmentally aseptic
conditions.

30.5.2001

EN

Official Journal of the European Communities

C 156/15

Half of the liquid precipitation, which averages 600 mm annually, is absorbed underground while
the other half is taken up by the topsoil.

On account of the area’s young, undeveloped karstic features, moisture that forms in rock fissures
and its products of alteration are restored to the topsoil by capillary action in periods of drought:
this phenomenon is a further feature peculiar to the area.

The geological, hydrological and meteorological parameters help make the natural environment in
the area concerned unique.

4.7. Inspection body

Name:

Bioagricoop Scrl

Address: Via Fucini 10, I-40033 Casalecchio di Reno (Bologna).

4.8. Labelling

The finished product is packaged in a microporous thermoformable material with a label giving:

1. a list of the ingredients and the firm’s name;

2. the sell-by date;

3. the mark.

Alternatively, it may be presented unwrapped, with simply a label in organic material setting out
the above and the words (cid:145)Pane di Altamura(cid:146).

Labels must show the appended mark, which must be accompanied by the protected designation
of origin.

The graphic symbol comprises a Samnite shield quartered two by two red and white and
surmounted by a crown with the words (cid:145)Pane DOP di Altamura(cid:146)
lines
across the centre of the oval field.

in three horizontal

The printing specifications of the mark are given below:

(cid:151) stippling: 100 % Pantone 323 cv,

(cid:151) Pane DOP di Altamura: Arial font, size 71,1 bold typeface, width of oval border 0,040,

(cid:151) major axis of oval 17,5 cm,

(cid:151) minor axis of oval 13 cm,

(cid:151) the logo must not be smaller than 10 cm (cid:215) 7 cm,

(cid:151) yellow: 100 % Pantone yellow cv,

(cid:151) violet: 100 % Pantone 228 cv,

(cid:151) white: 100 % Pantone trans. white cv,

(cid:151) green: 100 % Pantone 334 cv,

(cid:151) red: 100 % Pantone warm red cv,

(cid:151) border of oval: 100 % Pantone violet cv.

4.9. National requirements: (cid:151)

EC No: G/IT/00136/2000.06.22.

Date of receipt of the full application: 22 February 2001.