title: Oceanographic Considerations for the Management and Protection of Surfing Breaks

authors: Scarfe, Bradley Edward

subjects: Aramoana Beach Dunedin (New Zealand)

abstract: Although the physical characteristics of surfing breaks are well described in the literature, there is little specific research on surfing and coastal management. Such research is required because coastal engineering has had significant impacts to surfing breaks, both positive and negative. Strategic planning and environmental impact assessment methods, a central tenet of integrated coastal zone management (ICZM), are recommended by this thesis to maximise surfing amenities. The research reported here identifies key oceanographic considerations required for ICZM around surfing breaks including: surfing wave parameters; surfing break components; relationship between surfer skill, surfing manoeuvre type and wave parameters; wind effects on waves; currents; geomorphic surfing break categorisation; beach-state and morphology; and offshore wave transformations. Key coastal activities that can have impacts to surfing breaks are identified. Environmental data types to consider during coastal studies around surfing breaks are presented and geographic information systems (GIS) are used to manage and interpret such information. To monitor surfing breaks, a shallow water multibeam echo sounding system was utilised and a RTK GPS water level correction and hydrographic GIS methodology developed. Including surfing in coastal management requires coastal engineering solutions that incorporate surfing. As an example, the efficacy of the artificial surfing reef (ASR) at Mount Maunganui, New Zealand, was evaluated. GIS, multibeam echo soundings, oceanographic measurements, photography, and wave modelling were all applied to monitor sea floor morphology around the reef. Results showed that the beach-state has more cellular circulation since the reef was installed, and a groin effect on the offshore bar was caused by the structure within the monitoring period, trapping sediment updrift and eroding sediment downdrift. No identifiable shoreline salient was observed. Landward of the reef, a scour hole ~3 times the surface area of the reef has formed. The current literature on ASRs has primarily focused on reef shape and its role in creating surfing waves. However, this study suggests that impacts to the offshore bar, beach-state, scour hole and surf zone hydrodynamics should all be included in future surfing reef designs. More real world reef studies, including ongoing monitoring of existing surfing reefs are required to validate theoretical concepts in the published literature.

text: Oceanographic Considerations for the Management and Protection of Surfing Breaks Although the physical characteristics of surfing breaks are well described in the literature, there is little specific research on surfing and coastal management. Such research is required because coastal engineering has had significant impacts to surfing breaks, both positive and negative. Strategic planning and environmental impact assessment methods, a central tenet of integrated coastal zone management (ICZM), are recommended by this thesis to maximise surfing amenities. The research reported here identifies key oceanographic considerations required for ICZM around surfing breaks including: surfing wave parameters; surfing break components; relationship between surfer skill, surfing manoeuvre type and wave parameters; wind effects on waves; currents; geomorphic surfing break categorisation; beach-state and morphology; and offshore wave transformations. Key coastal activities that can have impacts to surfing breaks are identified. Environmental data types to consider during coastal studies around surfing breaks are presented and geographic information systems (GIS) are used to manage and interpret such information. To monitor surfing breaks, a shallow water multibeam echo sounding system was utilised and a RTK GPS water level correction and hydrographic GIS methodology developed. Including surfing in coastal management requires coastal engineering solutions that incorporate surfing. As an example, the efficacy of the artificial surfing reef (ASR) at Mount Maunganui, New Zealand, was evaluated. GIS, multibeam echo soundings, oceanographic measurements, photography, and wave modelling were all applied to monitor sea floor morphology around the reef. Results showed that the beach-state has more cellular circulation since the reef was installed, and a groin effect on the offshore bar was caused by the structure within the monitoring period, trapping sediment updrift and eroding sediment downdrift. No identifiable shoreline salient was observed. Landward of the reef, a scour hole ~3 times the surface area of the reef has formed. The current literature on ASRs has primarily focused on reef shape and its role in creating surfing waves. However, this study suggests that impacts to the offshore bar, beach-state, scour hole and surf zone hydrodynamics should all be included in future surfing reef designs. More real world reef studies, including ongoing monitoring of existing surfing reefs are required to validate theoretical concepts in the published literature.

year: 2008

title: Community understanding and preparedness for tsunami risk in the eastern North Island, New Zealand

authors: Pishief, Katharine Sophie

subjects: tsunami

abstract: The Indian Ocean tsunami on 26 December 2004 made many New Zealanders more aware of the devastating affects that a tsunami can have on coastal communities, and highlighted the need for people living in the coastal zone to be prepared for natural hazard events. The east coast of New Zealand is at high risk from both local and distantly generated tsunami, and Poverty Bay and Hawke Bay have been identified among the most at risk areas from tsunamis in the country. Three surveys were conducted between January and November 2006 to assess community understanding of, and preparedness for tsunami risk in the eastern North Island, New Zealand. These surveys were a camping ground visitor survey; a tourism sector preparedness survey; and the 2006 National Coastal Survey.
Findings of all three surveys show that the general public does not appear to have sufficient knowledge of tsunami risk in their area. Also, there does not appear to be adequate information on tsunamis available to the public. Understanding of official tsunami warnings was high amongst residents surveyed in the 2006 National Coastal Survey. However, it was low amongst visitors surveyed in the camping grounds, with the majority of camping ground survey respondents indicating that they do not know what makes up the New Zealand public notification system. It is encouraging to find that overall the public are aware of the correct actions to take in the event of a tsunami warning being issued.
Staff in hotels/motels in the Napier area were not well prepared for managing natural hazard events, with the majority of respondents having no training for dealing with emergencies, and none of those who had received training had received training for tsunami hazards.
It is recommended that steps be taken to better educate and prepare the public and tourism managers in eastern North Island communities. This will require not only public education but a range of activities that engage, empower and motivate at-risk communities to respond effectively and appropriately to tsunami warnings.

text: Community understanding and preparedness for tsunami risk in the eastern North Island, New Zealand The Indian Ocean tsunami on 26 December 2004 made many New Zealanders more aware of the devastating affects that a tsunami can have on coastal communities, and highlighted the need for people living in the coastal zone to be prepared for natural hazard events. The east coast of New Zealand is at high risk from both local and distantly generated tsunami, and Poverty Bay and Hawke Bay have been identified among the most at risk areas from tsunamis in the country. Three surveys were conducted between January and November 2006 to assess community understanding of, and preparedness for tsunami risk in the eastern North Island, New Zealand. These surveys were a camping ground visitor survey; a tourism sector preparedness survey; and the 2006 National Coastal Survey.
Findings of all three surveys show that the general public does not appear to have sufficient knowledge of tsunami risk in their area. Also, there does not appear to be adequate information on tsunamis available to the public. Understanding of official tsunami warnings was high amongst residents surveyed in the 2006 National Coastal Survey. However, it was low amongst visitors surveyed in the camping grounds, with the majority of camping ground survey respondents indicating that they do not know what makes up the New Zealand public notification system. It is encouraging to find that overall the public are aware of the correct actions to take in the event of a tsunami warning being issued.
Staff in hotels/motels in the Napier area were not well prepared for managing natural hazard events, with the majority of respondents having no training for dealing with emergencies, and none of those who had received training had received training for tsunami hazards.
It is recommended that steps be taken to better educate and prepare the public and tourism managers in eastern North Island communities. This will require not only public education but a range of activities that engage, empower and motivate at-risk communities to respond effectively and appropriately to tsunami warnings.

year: 2007

title: Te kū o te kupu

authors: Raerino, Heddell Robert

subjects: Māori language

abstract: Ko tēnei tuhingaroa, he rangahau hai wherawhera ake i te āhuatanga o te reo Māori, e kiia ana ko tōna oro, me te kū o ngā kupu kōrero o taua reo. Ko te aronga whakaaro o tēnei rangahau, he rapu i tētahi āhuatanga kāore anō kia tirotirohia, kia tuhia rānei mō te reo Māori. Ehara tēnei rangahau i te kaupapa, i te mahi hou. Otirā, kai te whai te kaituhi i ngā rangahau kua oti kē i wētahi tohunga te wānanga mō wētahi atu reo. Ko tā te kaituhi he whai i ngā tauira a te hunga wetewete reo nei, ka uwhi ai ki runga i te reo Māori hai āwhina i ngā tātaritanga ā te kaituhi mō tōna ake reo, arā, te reo Māori.

Kai te upoko tuatahi ka whaia ngā rerenga whakaaro i pūpū ake ai te taitara 'te kū o te kupu' mō tēnei mahi rangahau. Inā ka tirohia i ahu ngā oro o te reo mai i whea e ai ki tā te Māori wānanga. Mai i ngā oro ka puta ko ngā ku o ngā kupu me ngā kupu o ngā rārangi kōrero.

Hai te upoko tuarua ka tirohia ngā kōrero kua tuhia e ngā tohunga wetewete reo e pā ana ki te kaupapa o tēnei tuhingaroa, arā, te kū o te kupu. Ko ngā tirohanga mō te reo ake, arā, i ahu mai i whea, he aha ōna momo whakaata me tōna pakaritanga ka tirohia i roto i te upoko tuatoru.

Mai i ngā momo whakaata o te reo i roto i ngā momo waiata, ka āta tahuri te kaituhi ki te whakawhānui haere i tana wetewete me tāna tūhononga i ngā rerenga me ngā pekanga o te ku o te kupu.

Kai te upoko tuarima ka tirohia ngā whāinga me ngā aronga ā wētahi kaitito
waiata Māori me wētahi kaikōrero i te reo Māori, mō ō rātau māramatanga ki ngā kū me ngā oro o te reo Māori.

Kai te upoko tuaono e whāriki ana wētahi tauira kōrero Māori, hai whakaata i ngā momo orōmāhara, oro ohorere, ororite, kupu whakahuarua me wērā atu tauira whakaahua i ngā kū o te kupu me ngā oro o te reo Māori.

Ko ngā hua o tēnei rangahau, o tēnei tuhingaroa ka kitea i roto i te upoko
tuawhitu. Kōinei te whakakopinga o tēnei mahi.

text: Te kū o te kupu Ko tēnei tuhingaroa, he rangahau hai wherawhera ake i te āhuatanga o te reo Māori, e kiia ana ko tōna oro, me te kū o ngā kupu kōrero o taua reo. Ko te aronga whakaaro o tēnei rangahau, he rapu i tētahi āhuatanga kāore anō kia tirotirohia, kia tuhia rānei mō te reo Māori. Ehara tēnei rangahau i te kaupapa, i te mahi hou. Otirā, kai te whai te kaituhi i ngā rangahau kua oti kē i wētahi tohunga te wānanga mō wētahi atu reo. Ko tā te kaituhi he whai i ngā tauira a te hunga wetewete reo nei, ka uwhi ai ki runga i te reo Māori hai āwhina i ngā tātaritanga ā te kaituhi mō tōna ake reo, arā, te reo Māori.

Kai te upoko tuatahi ka whaia ngā rerenga whakaaro i pūpū ake ai te taitara 'te kū o te kupu' mō tēnei mahi rangahau. Inā ka tirohia i ahu ngā oro o te reo mai i whea e ai ki tā te Māori wānanga. Mai i ngā oro ka puta ko ngā ku o ngā kupu me ngā kupu o ngā rārangi kōrero.

Hai te upoko tuarua ka tirohia ngā kōrero kua tuhia e ngā tohunga wetewete reo e pā ana ki te kaupapa o tēnei tuhingaroa, arā, te kū o te kupu. Ko ngā tirohanga mō te reo ake, arā, i ahu mai i whea, he aha ōna momo whakaata me tōna pakaritanga ka tirohia i roto i te upoko tuatoru.

Mai i ngā momo whakaata o te reo i roto i ngā momo waiata, ka āta tahuri te kaituhi ki te whakawhānui haere i tana wetewete me tāna tūhononga i ngā rerenga me ngā pekanga o te ku o te kupu.

Kai te upoko tuarima ka tirohia ngā whāinga me ngā aronga ā wētahi kaitito
waiata Māori me wētahi kaikōrero i te reo Māori, mō ō rātau māramatanga ki ngā kū me ngā oro o te reo Māori.

Kai te upoko tuaono e whāriki ana wētahi tauira kōrero Māori, hai whakaata i ngā momo orōmāhara, oro ohorere, ororite, kupu whakahuarua me wērā atu tauira whakaahua i ngā kū o te kupu me ngā oro o te reo Māori.

Ko ngā hua o tēnei rangahau, o tēnei tuhingaroa ka kitea i roto i te upoko
tuawhitu. Kōinei te whakakopinga o tēnei mahi.

year: 2000