title: Fabric, fitness, and femininity:  A new materialist analysis of the activewear phenomenon

authors: Brice, Julie Elizabeth

subjects: Activewear

abstract: Activewear refers to casual clothing designed specifically for both function (enables and supports movement) and fashion. Since the early 2000s (and arguably earlier), activewear has seen a dramatic increase in popularity amongst women described, by some, as a fundamental change in women’s dress. Although often dismissed as simply the latest fashion trend, the activewear phenomenon can be understood as a complex entanglement of branding, fabric, skin, fat, muscle, consumption, environmentalism, gender, healthism, neoliberalism, and politics. While extremely prevalent in popular culture, there is limited socio-cultural scholarship on this complex phenomenon. This research seeks to better understand the connection between activewear, women’s fitness, and broader ideas around women’s moving bodies and femininity using a new materialist theoretical framework. 

New materialisms refer to a series of theories and concepts that are part of the posthumanist turn in social sciences. Although the approaches vary, in general, feminist new materialisms emphasise the vitality and liveliness of nonhuman matter, centralise the relationship between humans and nonhumans, see research processes as co-implicated in the production of knowledge, and maintain a political orientation towards the doing of gender. While many have discussed the theoretical implications of new materialisms, only recently have scholars begun exploring how to put new materialist concepts into practice in the research process. Therefore, this thesis contributes to a growing body of literature on the empirical possibilities of new materialisms. In particular, I use new materialist feminist physicist, Karen Barad’s theory of agential realism. 

Bringing together an array of humanist-based (interviews, focus groups, photo diaries) and creative methods, this research explores the potential of Baradian theory for studying the activewear phenomenon. Using three Baradian concepts (spacetimemattering, intra-action, and entanglement), I examine the material-discursive production of gender, fit femininity, and feminist politics within the activewear phenomenon. More specifically, I show how Barad’s spacetimemattering allows for an understanding of the ways activewear is entangled with previous iterations of femininity and works to rearticulate femininity as strong and powerful. Next, I bring together the material (i.e., clothing and bodies) with the discourses around activewear to emphasise how fit femininity and idealised bodies are produced through an entanglement of leggings, clothing, bodies, advertisements, and discourses. Finally, I use Barad’s concept of entanglement and writings on bodily boundaries to reimagine women’s moving bodies as phenomenon comprised of human and nonhuman entities. The thesis concludes with a discussion of the possibilities and challenges of using Baradian theory within feminist sport sociology. In particular, I describe how Barad’s agential realism allows for an understanding of activewear as a vital force in the production of boundaries around acceptable femininity. I also speak to some of the tensions and challenges scholars may experience when working with Baradian theory, such as issues with accessibility, representation, and time. In using new materialisms to understand activewear, this thesis contributes to the socio-cultural study of women’s fitness using a novel and innovative approach, in addition to advancing the literature on new materialisms and its empirical implications for feminist scholars of the moving body.

text: Fabric, fitness, and femininity:  A new materialist analysis of the activewear phenomenon Activewear refers to casual clothing designed specifically for both function (enables and supports movement) and fashion. Since the early 2000s (and arguably earlier), activewear has seen a dramatic increase in popularity amongst women described, by some, as a fundamental change in women’s dress. Although often dismissed as simply the latest fashion trend, the activewear phenomenon can be understood as a complex entanglement of branding, fabric, skin, fat, muscle, consumption, environmentalism, gender, healthism, neoliberalism, and politics. While extremely prevalent in popular culture, there is limited socio-cultural scholarship on this complex phenomenon. This research seeks to better understand the connection between activewear, women’s fitness, and broader ideas around women’s moving bodies and femininity using a new materialist theoretical framework. 

New materialisms refer to a series of theories and concepts that are part of the posthumanist turn in social sciences. Although the approaches vary, in general, feminist new materialisms emphasise the vitality and liveliness of nonhuman matter, centralise the relationship between humans and nonhumans, see research processes as co-implicated in the production of knowledge, and maintain a political orientation towards the doing of gender. While many have discussed the theoretical implications of new materialisms, only recently have scholars begun exploring how to put new materialist concepts into practice in the research process. Therefore, this thesis contributes to a growing body of literature on the empirical possibilities of new materialisms. In particular, I use new materialist feminist physicist, Karen Barad’s theory of agential realism. 

Bringing together an array of humanist-based (interviews, focus groups, photo diaries) and creative methods, this research explores the potential of Baradian theory for studying the activewear phenomenon. Using three Baradian concepts (spacetimemattering, intra-action, and entanglement), I examine the material-discursive production of gender, fit femininity, and feminist politics within the activewear phenomenon. More specifically, I show how Barad’s spacetimemattering allows for an understanding of the ways activewear is entangled with previous iterations of femininity and works to rearticulate femininity as strong and powerful. Next, I bring together the material (i.e., clothing and bodies) with the discourses around activewear to emphasise how fit femininity and idealised bodies are produced through an entanglement of leggings, clothing, bodies, advertisements, and discourses. Finally, I use Barad’s concept of entanglement and writings on bodily boundaries to reimagine women’s moving bodies as phenomenon comprised of human and nonhuman entities. The thesis concludes with a discussion of the possibilities and challenges of using Baradian theory within feminist sport sociology. In particular, I describe how Barad’s agential realism allows for an understanding of activewear as a vital force in the production of boundaries around acceptable femininity. I also speak to some of the tensions and challenges scholars may experience when working with Baradian theory, such as issues with accessibility, representation, and time. In using new materialisms to understand activewear, this thesis contributes to the socio-cultural study of women’s fitness using a novel and innovative approach, in addition to advancing the literature on new materialisms and its empirical implications for feminist scholars of the moving body.

year: 2021

title: A functional dairy product rich in Menaquinone-7 and FeOOH nanoparticles

authors: Novin, Donya

subjects: Science & Technology

abstract: Menaquinone-7 (MK-7) has been identified as an essential nutrient in enhancing bone mineral density, bone health, and reducing the risk of osteoporosis. Although there have been worthy achievements in MK-7 fermentation process using Bacillus subtilis natto, the low yield of fermentation, costly downstream extraction and purification processes remain the main challenges. In this research, a new approach was taken to study the feasibility of the production of a functional fermented dairy-based product rich in MK-7 by the use of iron oxide hydroxide (FeOOH) nanoparticles (NPs) to increase the concentration of MK-7. In this regard, milk a rich source of calcium, a necessary nutrient for bone health was chosen as the fermentation medium for MK-7 biosynthesis using B. subtilis natto. Two different types of FeOOH NPs, namely naked and biocompatible xanthan gum (XG)coated NPs, were synthesised (with 10 nm average particle size) and used to evaluate their effect on developing a fermented dairy-based product rich in MK-7 and iron. According to the results, in the presence of 3 mg/L of XGcoated and 12 mg/L of naked FeOOH NPs, the concentration of MK-7 significantly enhanced, and approximately 27% and 35% more MK-7 biosynthesis were observed respectively as compared with control samples with only 1.9 mg/L MK-7 production.

text: A functional dairy product rich in Menaquinone-7 and FeOOH nanoparticles Menaquinone-7 (MK-7) has been identified as an essential nutrient in enhancing bone mineral density, bone health, and reducing the risk of osteoporosis. Although there have been worthy achievements in MK-7 fermentation process using Bacillus subtilis natto, the low yield of fermentation, costly downstream extraction and purification processes remain the main challenges. In this research, a new approach was taken to study the feasibility of the production of a functional fermented dairy-based product rich in MK-7 by the use of iron oxide hydroxide (FeOOH) nanoparticles (NPs) to increase the concentration of MK-7. In this regard, milk a rich source of calcium, a necessary nutrient for bone health was chosen as the fermentation medium for MK-7 biosynthesis using B. subtilis natto. Two different types of FeOOH NPs, namely naked and biocompatible xanthan gum (XG)coated NPs, were synthesised (with 10 nm average particle size) and used to evaluate their effect on developing a fermented dairy-based product rich in MK-7 and iron. According to the results, in the presence of 3 mg/L of XGcoated and 12 mg/L of naked FeOOH NPs, the concentration of MK-7 significantly enhanced, and approximately 27% and 35% more MK-7 biosynthesis were observed respectively as compared with control samples with only 1.9 mg/L MK-7 production.

year: 2020-07-01

title: The contribution of family literacy programmes to the wellbeing of individuals, families and communities

authors: Furness, Jane Amanda

subjects: Adult Literacy Strategy

abstract: Approaches to literacy education named as ‘family literacy programmes’ first emerged in Aotearoa New Zealand in the early 2000s amidst considerable enthusiasm. Such approaches involve adults, children, or both in literacy learning in the contexts of home and family life. They are part of a wider field, established internationally, of academic and practical endeavour encompassing studies of the literacy practices of family members, studies of parents’ support of children’s literacy development, and studies of programmes aimed at enhancing family members’ literacy abilities, and the evaluations of such programmes. It is a contentious field, with divergent views of what constitutes both literacy and family, leading to differing expectations of what programmes are for and what they might achieve. From a moral perspective, hopes for such approaches, which hold much intuitive and culturally-located appeal, must be set against the concerning disparities in wellbeing between different groups, evident and growing in New Zealand as elsewhere. 

The study set out to explore the effects of a range of family-focused approaches in New Zealand, and their characteristics that seemed important in achieving relevant and meaningful outcomes for participants and their families. An important aim of the study was to encourage the essential conversation concerning the ideological and research-informed basis on which policies and practices should be developed to best suit our contexts, and that have people’s overall wellbeing, as well as their literacy development, in mind. The study traced the experiences of nineteen mainly Māori, Pacific and Pākehā adult participants in four varying family-focused literacy programmes located in different kinds of communities, drawing on Kaupapa Māori methodologies in its approach. Conversational interviews with the adult participants, programme staff and others who knew the participants well, repeated over 18 months, as well as participant observations of programme sessions and programme documentation, formed an extensive data set for latent theoretical thematic analysis. I identified literacy and other changes in the participants’ lives; synergistic links between factors influencing the programme effects, ‘flow on’ of effects to wider aspects of the participants’ lives and to their families and communities, and links to the personal, relational and collective wellbeing of individuals, families and communities.

The findings demonstrate that there are complex influences on programmes such that effects are highly individualised, but that there is nevertheless a tangible, discernable process in play as people journey from participation to wellbeing, in which literacy enhancement, familiarity with new literacies, and new uses of literacies, are involved. The study suggests a disjuncture between current literacy education policy and the hopes, aspirations and real lives of many people for whom the programmes are intended and who wish to contribute to their families and communities despite their complex and often fraught lives. It also demonstrates that a deep level of care and holistic concern is possible in a programme which also achieves literacy skill development. Recognition of people’s whole selves including their problems and their existing abilities in programme content and approach demonstrated the ‘respectful relevance’ that appears crucial to the involvement and the positive (useful and meaningful) outcomes that were observed. It demonstrated that a broad and inclusive evaluative lens offers the best hope for full appreciation of the contribution of programmes such as these, when the overall wellbeing of families, communities and society as a whole is placed at the centre of literacy work. 

The study offers new and urgently-needed ecological systems-based models within a wellbeing orientation to family literacy theory. These have implications for the future development of programmes in Aotearoa New Zealand and provide frameworks against which programmes internationally may consider their work afresh. The study calls for greater community relevance in family literacy based on local values and aspirations.

text: The contribution of family literacy programmes to the wellbeing of individuals, families and communities Approaches to literacy education named as ‘family literacy programmes’ first emerged in Aotearoa New Zealand in the early 2000s amidst considerable enthusiasm. Such approaches involve adults, children, or both in literacy learning in the contexts of home and family life. They are part of a wider field, established internationally, of academic and practical endeavour encompassing studies of the literacy practices of family members, studies of parents’ support of children’s literacy development, and studies of programmes aimed at enhancing family members’ literacy abilities, and the evaluations of such programmes. It is a contentious field, with divergent views of what constitutes both literacy and family, leading to differing expectations of what programmes are for and what they might achieve. From a moral perspective, hopes for such approaches, which hold much intuitive and culturally-located appeal, must be set against the concerning disparities in wellbeing between different groups, evident and growing in New Zealand as elsewhere. 

The study set out to explore the effects of a range of family-focused approaches in New Zealand, and their characteristics that seemed important in achieving relevant and meaningful outcomes for participants and their families. An important aim of the study was to encourage the essential conversation concerning the ideological and research-informed basis on which policies and practices should be developed to best suit our contexts, and that have people’s overall wellbeing, as well as their literacy development, in mind. The study traced the experiences of nineteen mainly Māori, Pacific and Pākehā adult participants in four varying family-focused literacy programmes located in different kinds of communities, drawing on Kaupapa Māori methodologies in its approach. Conversational interviews with the adult participants, programme staff and others who knew the participants well, repeated over 18 months, as well as participant observations of programme sessions and programme documentation, formed an extensive data set for latent theoretical thematic analysis. I identified literacy and other changes in the participants’ lives; synergistic links between factors influencing the programme effects, ‘flow on’ of effects to wider aspects of the participants’ lives and to their families and communities, and links to the personal, relational and collective wellbeing of individuals, families and communities.

The findings demonstrate that there are complex influences on programmes such that effects are highly individualised, but that there is nevertheless a tangible, discernable process in play as people journey from participation to wellbeing, in which literacy enhancement, familiarity with new literacies, and new uses of literacies, are involved. The study suggests a disjuncture between current literacy education policy and the hopes, aspirations and real lives of many people for whom the programmes are intended and who wish to contribute to their families and communities despite their complex and often fraught lives. It also demonstrates that a deep level of care and holistic concern is possible in a programme which also achieves literacy skill development. Recognition of people’s whole selves including their problems and their existing abilities in programme content and approach demonstrated the ‘respectful relevance’ that appears crucial to the involvement and the positive (useful and meaningful) outcomes that were observed. It demonstrated that a broad and inclusive evaluative lens offers the best hope for full appreciation of the contribution of programmes such as these, when the overall wellbeing of families, communities and society as a whole is placed at the centre of literacy work. 

The study offers new and urgently-needed ecological systems-based models within a wellbeing orientation to family literacy theory. These have implications for the future development of programmes in Aotearoa New Zealand and provide frameworks against which programmes internationally may consider their work afresh. The study calls for greater community relevance in family literacy based on local values and aspirations.

year: 2012