Sentence:  Leafing through them now, I notice how orderly the early ones are: drawings of boxy Jasper Conran Chanel-esque jackets and gauzy Galliano <WSD>directoire</WSD> dresses, annotations on how "Patsy Kensit showed her bum!" at a Westwood show [...]. 
Meaning of the word marked with <WSD> tags:  Pertaining to a style of dress common during this period, characterised by extravagant, Classically-inspired designs.