Sentence:  As I have said before, the Dorsetshire hind is undoubtedly under-fed. Bread and "<WSD>choke-dog</WSD>", as he calls his county's cheese, ... these are the chief items in his bill of fare. 
Meaning of the word marked with <WSD> tags:  A very hard cheese.  Attributed variously to counties of the West Country of the United Kingdom such as Devon, Dorset and the Isle of Wight.