Sentence:  Yet the 2016 Éxilé rosé from Lise et Bertrand Jousset in the Loire Valley, made mostly of gamay, was yeasty let light and lithe, while the 2016 Indigeno from Ancarani in Emilia-Romagna, made of trebbiano, was <WSD>taut</WSD> and earthy. 
Meaning of the word marked with <WSD> tags:  Strong; uncompromising.