Sentence:  Butter became in my eyes a gauge of character and gentility, almost of integrity. I watched these ravenous wretches "<WSD>gaum</WSD>" their batter-cakes with it, help themselves to more than they really wanted, leaving great golden chunks of it half melted and wholly useless, mixed as it was with gravy ... 
Meaning of the word marked with <WSD> tags:  To smear.