Sentence:  Instead of the olden spirit of enterprise, the city seemed to be the home of inertness—one grey and great temple of lassitude. Except the few money-getting American merchants who sojourned there, the only <WSD>lifeful</WSD> creatures to be met with are the myriads of insects that swarm in every house, as I found, to my great discomfort, on my second visit; not remaining sufficiently long on my first, to acquire a knowledge of their numbers and strength. 
Meaning of the word marked with <WSD> tags:  Full of vitality; lively and exuberant.