Sentence:  The East India company was pursuing its own financial interests, but in doing so was also fostering the establishment of industries such as calico printing — an industry that would have not achieved the same degree of accomplishment if it had confined itself simply to the printing of European <WSD>fustians</WSD> (mixed cottons) and linens, both of which were more difficult to print on than cotton. 
Meaning of the word marked with <WSD> tags:  A kind of coarse twilled cotton or cotton and linen stuff.