WRITTEN QUESTION E-2231/98

by Magda Aelvoet (V) to the Commission

(16 July 1998)

Subject: Environmentally sound cotton production

European consumers are, quite rightly, increasingly concerned about the environmental impact of their textile products. To promote fair and environmentally sound world trade, they want to be sure about the clothes they wear. In industry too, there is a steadily growing awareness of this ethical dimension of production and trade. At present many problems still exist with regard to cotton growing. A more structured approach would be desirable, and the European Union could play a pioneering role in this regard.

1. Has the Commission taken any steps to promote the use and sale of cotton produced by environmentally sound methods?

2. Will the Commission introduce a special ecolabel for cotton products making it clear, inter alia, that no prohibited dyes have been used in their production and that the cotton has been grown in an environmentally sound manner (without using pesticides)?

3. Is consideration being given to granting special preferential treatment to products (e.g. textiles) produced by ecologically sound methods, as part of the WTO agreements on international trade?

4. Will the Commission consider further measures to support ecotextiles, e.g. research, special projects in conjunction with industry, pilot projects for ecocotton, etc.?

Answer given by Mrs Bjerregaard on behalf of the Commission

(5 October 1998)

Within the framework of the Community eco-label award scheme, established by Council Regulation (EEC) 880/92(1), criteria were adopted in May 1996 for bed-linen and T-shirts, made from cotton or blends of cotton and polyester.

The criteria limit the presence in cotton fibres of residues of certain environmentally harmful pesticide-active substances, and exempt organic cotton (that is produced in conformity with Council Regulation (EEC) 2092/91(2) on organic production of agricultural products) from testing in this respect. The criteria address the key production processes to ensure a high level of environmental protection during the manufacture of the textile products, and exclude dyestuffs that are potentially carcinogenic. In addition, a series of tests are made on the eco-labelled product to ensure that it is fit for use. Work is being carried out to extend the eco-label to most other textile products and fibres.

The debate in the World trade organization (WTO) committee on trade and environment has so far mainly focused on the relationship between environmental requirements, including measures pursuant to multilateral environmental agreements, and trade rules, as well as on the environmental benefits of removing trade restrictions and distortions. The establishment of special preferences for environmentally friendly products has not been specifically considered. The Commission would however support further work to examine "win-win" situations of this nature which are a concrete example of how trade and environment can be mutually supportive of sustainable development.

Finally, the Commission co-finances a number of research projects which aim to develop cleaner textile production techniques.

(1) OJ L 99, 11.4.1992.

(2) OJ L 198, 22.7.1991.