Publication of a communication of approval of a standard amendment to a product specification for a name in the wine sector referred to in Article 17(2) and (3) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33.

(2020/C 44/07)

This communication is published in accordance with Article 17(5) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33 (1).

COMMUNICATING THE APPROVAL OF A STANDARD AMENDMENT

‘Coteaux de Saumur’

PDO-FR-A0179-AM01

Date of communication: 13 November 2019

DESCRIPTION OF AND REASONS FOR THE APPROVED AMENDMENT

1. Geographical name

‘Supplementary geographical name’ has been reduced to ‘geographical name’ in Chapter I points II and XII(2)(b).

A number of the product specifications for Loire Valley wines allow the use of what is known as the ‘eponymous geographical designation’ — ‘Val de Loire’ — to refer to this wider region. The use of this term on wine labels is subject to specific rules laid down in those product specifications. As the term ‘supplementary geographical name’ is also used in some cases to denote smaller geographical units with more restrictive production conditions, the word ‘supplementary’ has been removed in order to prevent confusion.

Point 9 of the Single Document, ‘Further conditions’, has been amended accordingly.

2. Geographical area

The passage concerning the geographical area now reads as follows: All stages of production must take place in the geographical area, which spans the territories of the following municipalities, based on the 2018 Official Geographical Code:

— Saint-Martin-de-Mâcon and Tourtenay in the Department of Deux-Sèvres;

— Brézé, Chacé, Cizay-la-Madeleine, Le Coudray-Macouard, Courchamps, Distré, Doué-en-Anjou (territories of the former municipalities of Meigné and Les Verchers-sur-Layon), Épieds, Fontevraud-l’Abbaye, Montsoreau, Parnay, Le Puy-Notre-Dame, Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg, Saumur, Souzay-Champigny, Turquant, Les Ulmes, Varrains and Vaudelnay in the Department of Maine-et-Loire;

— Berrie, Curçay-sur-Dive, Glénouze, Pouançay, Ranton, Saint-Léger-de-Montbrillais, Saix, Ternay and Les Trois-Moutiers in the Department of Vienne.

Maps of this geographical area can be found on the website of the National Origin and Quality Institute.

This is an editorial change: the new list of administrative entities reflects mergers and other zoning changes that have taken place since the product specification was approved. For greater legal certainty, the list is now referenced to the latest version of the Official Geographical Code, updated yearly by the National Institute of Statistics and Economic Studies (INSEE). The actual perimeter of the geographical area remains unchanged.

Finally, in the interests of better public information, the product specification now states that maps of the geographical area can be found on the National Origin and Quality Institute’s website.

Point 6 of the Single Document, ‘Geographical area’, has been amended accordingly.

3. Demarcated parcel area

In the first paragraph of point IV(2) of Chapter 1 of the product specification for PDO ‘Coteaux de Saumur’, the words ‘and 19 January 2017’ have been added after ‘5 September 2007’.

This amendment consists of the addition of the date on which the competent national authority approved a change to the demarcated parcel area within the geographical production area. The demarcated parcel area is the land within the geographical area that is suitable for producing this Protected Designation of Origin.

The Single Document is not affected by this amendment.

4. Area in immediate proximity

The list of municipalities previously given in point IV(3) of Chapter 1 has been replaced by the following: ‘Artannes-sur-Thouet, Brossay, Doué-en-Anjou (comprising the former municipalities of Doué-la-Fontaine, Forges and Montfort), Montreuil-Bellay, Rou-Marson and Saint-Just-sur-Dive’.

This change reflects the various mergers of municipalities that have taken place since the previous version of the product specification was published. The actual boundary of the area in immediate proximity remains unchanged.

Point 9 of the Single Document, ‘Further conditions’, has been amended accordingly.

5. Agri-environment rule

The following has been added to point VI(2) of Chapter 1: Controlled green cover, whether naturally occurring or sown, must be in place between the rows; where there is no such green cover, the grower must perform weeding or justify the use of biocontrol products approved by the public authorities for use in wine-growing. Where biocontrol weedkillers are used on a parcel, no other weedkillers may be used.

This amendment reflects how winegrowing practices throughout the Anjou area have evolved towards an agro-ecological approach, with technical procedures increasingly influenced by environmental concerns. Promoting the presence of green cover and the use of mechanical weeding or biocontrol products reduces chemical weedkiller use. This will help to protect vineyard soils and preserve their natural functions (fertility, biodiversity, natural pest control), enhancing the quality and authenticity of wines and strengthening the concept of terroir.

The Single Document is not affected by this amendment.

6. Harvest announcement

The following sentence has been deleted from point VII(1) of Chapter 1: The harvest start date is set in accordance with Article D645-6 of the Rural and Sea-Fishing Code.

It is no longer necessary to set a date for beginning the harvest, as growers now have a wide range of tools at their disposal to help them accurately gauge grape ripeness. Each winegrower has access to equipment, whether owned individually or collectively, that makes it possible to pinpoint the best date to start harvesting each parcel, depending on production targets.

The Single Document is not affected by this amendment.

7. Winery capacity

Rather than ‘all winemakers must have the capacity to make 1.4 times the holding’s average yield over the last five years’, point IX(1)(c) of Chapter 1 now states that ‘All winemakers must have the capacity to make at least 1.4 times the average volume of wine made over the last five years’.

Rather than a volume-based capacity (expressed in hl or m3), the product specification used to refer to yield, i.e. harvest volume divided by production area (for example in hectolitres per hectare). The proposed amendment remedies this inconsistency in quantities, without any change to the substance of the rule (the winery capacity requirement is still 1.4 times the average volume of wine produced in previous years).

The Single Document is not affected by this amendment.

8. Circulation of wines

Point IX(5)(b) of Chapter 1, which stated the date on which wines could begin circulating between authorised warehouse-keepers, has been deleted.

The Single Document is not affected by this amendment.

9. Link with the geographical area

The link has been revised to update the number of municipalities covered (19 rather than 20 for the Department of Maine-et-Loire).

Point 8 of the Single Document, ‘Link’, has been amended accordingly.

10. Transitional measures

The following has been added to point XI of Chapter 1: The rules requiring growers to have controlled green cover, whether naturally occurring or sown, in place between the rows and to perform weeding or use biocontrol products to control naturally occurring vegetation do not apply to vineyard parcels with a distance between rows of 1.70 m or less that are already in existence at the date of approval of this product specification.

This transitional measure means that existing vineyards whose current configuration means that they would struggle to follow the agri-environmental rule are not penalised. In high-density vineyards, namely those in which the rows are spaced 1.70 metres apart or closer, maintaining permanent grass cover or performing weeding operations may pose technical problems (mechanisation, equipment, tools). Grass cover increases the risk of spring frosts in low-hanging vines. Moreover, green cover would mean that these vines, already more densely planted, would have yet more vegetation to compete with for their water supply. On the other hand, for vines planted after the product specification is approved, the growers will have full knowledge of the requirements and will have to comply with the new agri-environmental measures, regardless of vine density or the distance between rows.

The Single Document is not affected by this amendment.

11. Labelling rules

A new point 1 has been added:

1. General provisions The wines making use of the controlled designation of origin ‘Coteaux de Saumur’ under the terms of this product specification and presented with that name cannot be declared after harvest, offered to the public, dispatched, marketed or sold unless the controlled designation of origin appears in the harvest declaration, in advertisements, in catalogues, and on any labels, invoices or receipts.

This rule is included in all product specifications and had been omitted by mistake.

The Single Document is not affected by this amendment.

12. Record-keeping

In point II(3) of Chapter 2, the word ‘potential’ has been replaced by ‘natural’.

In line with all the other product specifications from the Anjou Saumur area, the terms ‘potential alcoholic strength’ or ‘alcohol content’ have been replaced with ‘natural alcoholic strength by volume’. These amendments improve the readability of the product specifications. The rules on record-keeping have been harmonised to make it easier to check the records and draw up the inspection plan.

The Single Document is not affected by this amendment.

13. Compliance checklist

Chapter 3 has been revised to ensure consistency across the checklists included in the different product specifications for Anjou Saumur wines.

The Single Document is not affected by this amendment.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

1. Name of the product

Coteaux de Saumur

2. Geographical indication type

PDO - Protected Designation of Origin

3. Categories of grapevine product

1. Wine

4. Description of the wine(s)

Still white wines made from late-harvested grapes with the following main analytical characteristics:

— minimum natural alcoholic strength of 15% by volume;

— fermentable sugar (glucose and fructose) content not exceeding 34 grams per litre following fermentation;

— total acidity and total sulphur dioxide contents compliant with EU legislation;

— a minimum actual alcoholic strength of 10% by volume, or 11% in the case of wines with a natural alcoholic strength of less than 18% by volume.

The wines are characterised by their delicacy, often combining subtle aromas of white flowers or fresh or candied fruit. They evoke the gentle terrain of the Loire countryside. On the palate, mild and fresh sensations are blended together with skilful alchemy, under the cover of a certain fragility, combining elegance and complexity. This balanced structure demonstrates how suitable these wines are for ageing, with notes of beeswax and honey often emerging.

GENERAL ANALYTICAL CHARACTERISTICS Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume) Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume) Minimum total acidity 25 Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre) Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre)

5. Wine-making practices

a. Essential oenological practices

Specific oenological practice

All enrichment is banned.

The use of wood chips is forbidden.

The wines must be aged until at least 15 February of the year following the harvest.

In addition to the above provisions, all winemaking practices used must also be compliant with the requirements laid down at EU level and in the Rural and Sea-Fishing Code.

Density

Cultural practice

Minimum planting density is 4 000 vines per hectare. Rows of vines may not be spaced more than 2.5 metres apart. The vine trunks making up a row must be spaced at least one metre apart.

The controlled designation of origin may be used for vineyard parcels with a density of fewer than 4 000 — but at least 3 300 — vines per hectare, subject to compliance with certain vine-training and foliage height rules laid down in the product specification. On such parcels, the rows may not be spaced more than 3 metres apart, and the vine trunks making up a row must be spaced at least one metre apart.

Vine pruning and training

Cultural practice

The vines must be pruned by 30 April using the rod and spur system, with a maximum of 12 yeux francs [the term used for buds separated from the base buds by a definite internode] per trunk. At the 11- or 12-leaf growth stage, each trunk may not have more than ten fruiting canes for the year.

The foliage on the trellis must reach a height of at least 0.6 times the distance between the rows. This height is measured as the distance between the lower limit of the foliage (which must be at least 0.40 m above ground level) and the upper trimming limit (which must be at least 0.20 m above the upper trellis wire).

Vineyard parcels with a density of fewer than 4 000 — but at least 3 300 — vines per hectare are also subject to the following trellising rules: the trellis poles must reach at least 1.90 metres above ground level, there must be four horizontal wires, and the top wire must be at least 1.85 metres above ground level.

Irrigation

Cultural practice

Irrigation is not permitted.

Cultural practice

The wines are made from late-harvested grapes, picked by hand, with pickers passing through the vineyard several times.

b. Maximum yields

40 hectolitres per hectare

6. Demarcated geographical area

All stages of production must take place in the geographical area, which spans the territories of the following municipalities, based on the 2018 Official Geographical Code:

— Saint-Martin-de-Mâcon and Tourtenay in the Department of Deux-Sèvres;

— Brézé, Chacé, Cizay-la-Madeleine, Le Coudray-Macouard, Courchamps, Distré, Doué-en-Anjou (territories of the former municipalities of Meigné and Les Verchers-sur-Layon), Épieds, Fontevraud-l’Abbaye, Montsoreau, Parnay, Le Puy-Notre-Dame, Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg, Saumur, Souzay-Champigny, Turquant, Les Ulmes, Varrains and Vaudelnay in the Department of Maine-et-Loire;

— Berrie, Curçay-sur-Dive, Glénouze, Pouançay, Ranton, Saint-Léger-de-Montbrillais, Saix, Ternay and Les Trois-Moutiers in the Department of Vienne.

Maps of this geographical area can be found on the website of the National Origin and Quality Institute.

7. Main wine grape variety(ies)

Chenin B

8. Description of the link(s)

1. Details of the geographical area

a) Description of the natural factors relevant to the link

The geographical area consists of the chalky-soiled slopes of the controlled designation of origin ‘Saumur’. Based on 2018 data, it spans 19 municipalities in the Department of Maine-et-Loire, two in the Department of Deux-Sèvres and nine in the Department of Vienne. The Loire forms its northern boundary, and the River Thouet and its tributary, the Dive, cross the area from north to south. The way in which this network of waterways carves through the terrain has left a succession of slopes oriented in various directions, measuring between 40 and 110 metres high.

The landscape is marked by the cultivation of grapevines on the most favourably oriented slopes, while the hilltops continue to be populated by forests of various species, predominantly oak and chestnut. The immense caves from which stone was quarried to build the local houses, and which are now used for growing mushrooms, provide a ventilation outlet at the heart of the vineyards. The landscape is characterised by the harmonious coexistence of vineyards with local buildings, an osmosis between winegrowers’ villages, walled vineyards and stately homes and Châteaux built in the Anjou Blanc tufa stone with their characteristic gleaming white façades set with sculptures, which contributed to the region being designated as a protected natural area and listed as a UNESCO world heritage site.

The vineyard parcels, arranged for harvesting grapes, feature soils that have formed over the various Turonian formations: rendzina and chalky brown soils of varying depths. At the tops of the slopes these are covered with sands and clays originating from more recent epochs such as the Senonien or Eocene. These are soils with good thermal properties and moderate water retention capacity. They are free from any signs of waterlogging.

The Saumur area has an oceanic climate. The Mauges hills, located to the west of the vineyards, add a foehn wind effect that modulates these oceanic conditions. The fact that the local area is sheltered from the humid winds gives it annual average rainfall of 600 millimetres, compared to more than 800 millimetres on the Mauges hills. This difference in rainfall is even more marked during the vine’s growth cycle, in particular from June up to the harvest period. The Loire and its tributaries also play a major role as their presence mean that morning mists are a common occurrence at harvest time. The influence of the ‘Seuil du Poitou’, located to the south of the geographical area, gives it some more ‘southerly’ flavours, with the presence of species that one might not expect to find on the banks of the Loire: holly oaks, olive trees, almond trees, etc. Average annual temperatures are relatively high (around 12 °C).

(b) Description of the human factors relevant to the geographical link

Although wine-making in the Saumur region dates back to the 9th century, it mainly developed in the 16th century following the arrival of Dutch wine brokers, who, recognising how suitable these wines were for shipping overseas, were able to convince consumers outside the region of the qualities of the Chenin Blanc grape. From then on, different methods were used to grow the vines for two quality standards: the vines used to make wines ‘for the sea’ were pruned short, leaving only a couple of buds, unlike the vines used to make wines ‘for Paris’. The variety appears to have originated in this area’s vineyards. It is a hardy variety, with potential that varies greatly depending on the type of soil in which it is planted.

Local winemakers also quickly recognised the benefits of late harvesting this variety using certain techniques. In his 1845 Traité des cépages (‘Treatise on Vine Varieties’), Count Odart argued that ‘it should also not be harvested until it is overripe, such as the condition it reaches towards All Saints’ Day, when the skins, tenderised by the rains, are sloughed off’. Over-ripeness is therefore an integral part of the harvest. In André Jullien’s 1816 Topographie de tous les vignobles connus (‘Topography of All Known Vineyards’), he argues that ‘at the good vineyards, the grape-pickers pass through the vineyards several times; the grapes picked in the first two passes are used for only the most mature wines, providing the wines to be shipped abroad and the grapes from the third pass are used for wines for domestic consumption’.

Although the name ‘Coteaux de Saumur’ dates back to the Middle Ages, it initially denoted a geographical area that comprised the towns bordering the Loire, from Saumur (which has since been merged into the municipality of Dampierre) to Montsoreau. The area was later expanded to include the towns on the right bank of the Thouet. In 1865, in a book entitled Indicateur de Maine-et-Loire (‘Guide to Maine-et-Loire’), Pierre-Aimé Millet de la Turtaudière wrote that ‘“Coteaux de Saumur” white wines are strictly speaking from the towns of Dampierre, Souzay, Parnay, Turquant and Montsoreau, but they should be brought together into a single category with other white wines from Chacé, Varrains, Brézé and Saint Cyr, which have the same excellent qualities’. In establishing this definition, the author presaged the geographical area that was later to be established in the Decree recognising the Controlled Designation of Origin ‘Coteaux de Saumur’.

2. Information on the quality and characteristics of the product

The wines of ‘Coteaux de Saumur’ are characterised by their delicacy, often featuring a blend of subtle aromas of white flowers or fresh or candied fruit. They evoke the gentle terrain of the Loire countryside. On the palate, mild and fresh sensations are blended together with skilful alchemy, under the cover of a certain fragility, combining elegance and complexity. This balanced structure demonstrates how suitable these wines are for ageing, with notes of beeswax and honey often emerging.

3. Causal interactions

Thanks to the combination of a relatively warm, dry climate and chalky well-drained soils that allow a regular but not excessive supply of water, the local Chenin Blanc variety has been able to establish itself on the hillsides with the best sun exposure. This landscape, which is an important factor in the production of the controlled designation of origin ‘Coteaux de Saumur’, ensures that the grapes are well ventilated and plentiful on the vine and that ‘noble rot’ develops. The Loire and its tributaries also play a major role as their presence mean that morning mists — essential for the development of Botrytis cinerea — are a common occurrence at harvest time.

Local winemakers quickly realised that it was in their interests to master growing the Chenin Blanc variety. In his 1876 work Viticulture de la France (‘France’s Winemaking’), J. Guyot said of this Saumur variety, ‘here we cannot fail to recognise the influence of pruning on wine quality, although it must be acknowledged in consequence that good wine-producing vines are not only formed by pruning but also by soil and location’.

Following local customs, the ‘demarcated parcel area’ comprises only hillside vineyards. This means that growers have to manage the plant expertly, harnessing its vigour and fruiting potential, aided by the practice of producing low yields through tailored pruning practices. The traditional harvesting technique is still used today: once the grapes have reached an overripe state, either through ‘noble rot’ or natural concentration on the vine, they are picked by hand, with pickers passing through the vineyard several times.

Many documentary sources attest to the reputation of Saumur wines. In 1529, Bourdigné described the local vineyards as ‘Noah’s masterpiece’, notably citing the Bretons’ and Normans’ predilection for their products. In 1618, Jean Hirand did not hesitate to label them as ‘France’s best white wines’. However, while the Saumur wines charmed poets, they found outstanding patrons in the Capetians (Saint Louis in particular) and the House of Plantagenet. Thanks to the influence of Henri II and Eleanor of Aquitaine, they made their way to the most prestigious tables. In André Jullien’s 1816 Topographie de tous les vignobles connus (‘Topography of All Known Vineyards’), he classes the Saumur products as wines of the highest quality, remarking that ‘the sun-exposed hillsides of the Saumur region produce full-bodied, white wines that are high in alcohol and stand up well to shipping; they are of excellent quality and delicious’. He also wrote that ‘shipments for the Maine region and Normandy are partly taken along the River Mayenne; those for Paris and Orléans travel back up the Loire; and those for overseas go down the Loire to Nantes to be shipped onwards to their final destinations’.

The development of the vineyards was linked to river-borne trade, and the Saumur region grows grapes used to make original, high-quality wines. This pursuit of quality is illustrated in numerous documents, including Count Odart’s 1845 Traité des cépages (‘Treatise on Vine Varieties’) and Victor Rendu’s 1857 Ampélographie Française (‘French Ampelography’); even back then, references were made to the late harvesting of the Chenin Blanc and the fact that the pickers passed through the vineyard several times, earning these excellent white wines from the banks of the Loire their reputation. In 2010 ‘Coteaux de Saumur’ wines continued to enjoy an excellent reputation. A rare and expensive product, they are mainly sold directly to a number of well-informed, enthusiastic consumers.

9. Essential further conditions (packaging, labelling, other requirements)

Area in immediate proximity

Legal framework:

In EU legislation

Type of further condition:

Derogation on the production in the demarcated geographical area

Description of the condition:

The area in immediate proximity, in which winemaking can be performed by derogation, comprises the following municipalities of the Department of Maine-et-Loire, based on the 2018 Official Geographical Code: Artannes-sur-Thouet, Brossay, Doué-en-Anjou (territories of the former municipalities of Doué-la-Fontaine, Forges et Montfort), Montreuil-Bellay, Rou-Marson and Saint-Just-sur-Dive.

Labelling

Legal framework:

In national legislation

Type of further condition:

Additional provisions relating to labelling

Description of the condition:

— The characters used for optional indications on labels may not be more than twice the size (in terms of height or width) of the characters used to print the name of the controlled designation of origin.

— The name of the controlled designation of origin may be supplemented with the geographical name ‘Val de Loire’ in accordance with the rules laid down in the product specification for the use of this name. The characters used for the geographical name ‘Val de Loire’ may not be more than two thirds of the size (in terms of height or width) of the characters used for the name of the controlled designation of origin.

— Wines with the controlled designation of origin may be labelled with the name of a smaller geographical unit, provided that:

— it is a place name listed in the land registry;

— it appears on the harvest declaration.

The characters used for the registered place name may not be more than half the size (in terms of height or width) of the characters used for the name of the controlled designation of origin.

Link to the product specification

https://info.agriculture.gouv.fr/gedei/site/bo-agri/document_administratif-c4b2e678-3a96-45e9-8ed0-5fe4f53729b3

(1) OJ L 9, 11.1.2019, p. 2.