EN Official Journal of the European Union C 183/16

Publication of an application pursuant to Article 6(2) of Council Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs

2012/C 183/09

This publication confers the right to object to the application pursuant to Article 7 of Council Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 (1). Statements of objection must reach the Commission within six months of the date of this publication.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006

‘RILLETTES DE TOURS’

EC No: FR-PGI-0005-0845-18.01.2011

PGI ( X ) PDO ( )

1. Name:

‘Rillettes de Tours’

2. Member State or Third Country:

France

3. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff:

3.1. Type of product:

Class 1.2. Meat products (cooked, salted, smoked, etc.)

3.2. Description of product to which the name in (1) applies:

A cooked, spreadable pork product presented in a pot, terrine, hermetically sealed jar or on bread. In a jar or terrine, the product may be covered with a layer of pork fat to improve its preservation.

‘Rillettes de Tours’ are obtained by slowly cooking pieces of pork meat (at least 6 × 6 cm) in a pot of pork fat. This meat can be aromatised with white wine or distilled grape wine. Salt (non-nitrite) is added to the preparation, and pepper, E150 and Patrelle colouring may also be added.

The colour of ‘Rillettes de Tours’ ranges from golden yellow (pantone 142 U) to golden brown (pantone 161 U).

The rillettes have a rough texture and contain clearly visible coarse meat fibres (more than 2 cm) as well as pieces of meat.

The humidity level of the fat-free product should be less than or equal to 68 %, which gives it a dry texture.

‘Rillettes de Tours’ also have a browned-meat flavour.

The finished product meets the physico-chemical requirements for lipid levels of ≤ 42 % (68 % of the raw product), the total soluble sugar content of < 0,5 % (68 % of the raw product) and the collagen/protide ratio of ≤ 19 %.

3.3. Raw materials (for processed products only):

‘Rillettes de Tours’ are made from the meat of pigs from breeds entered in the herd books or herd breeding records kept by the Pork Selection Bodies approved by the French Ministry for Agriculture.

The breeds thus registered constitute the quality basis of the meats used in the production of ‘Rillettes du Tours’.

There is no geographical limit to the origin of the pigs.

Sows must be given a rest period of at least 15 days between weaning and slaughter. The minimum age for slaughter is 172 days, and there is a mandatory feed withdrawal time of 12 hours before slaughter. The minimum warm weight for pig carcasses is 85 kg. These points aim to improve the quality of the taste of the meat.

The pieces of ham and fillet (exclusively loin cuts) should consist of at least 25 % lean meat, to improve the quality of the finished product. The other meats come from the shoulder, neck (between the first and fifth rib of the loin) and belly (except udders).

To improve the product's taste and hygiene properties, it must be made from fresh meat. Fresh meat must constitute at least 75 % of the total meat used in the production process. Frozen meat must have been kept frozen by the producer of the rillettes at a temperature of – 18 °C for no more than one month. The buying of frozen meats is forbidden.

Wines may be used in the production process; these must be white wines made from Chenin grape varieties. This variety has a dry, tender character.

The wine retains several grams of residual sugars, which give it a tenderness contrasting with the saltiness of ‘Rillettes de Tours’. Chenin grapes have a mineral and chalky aromatic character which balances the smoky and salty character of ‘Rillettes de Tours’. In addition, the freshness, acidity and aroma of the fruit counterbalances the fat contained in the rillettes and reveal its flavours.

The use of distilled grape wines is optional.

There is no geographical limit to the origin of the wines and distilled grape wines.

3.4. Feed (for products of animal origin only):

Not applicable.

3.5. Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area:

The following steps in the production of ‘Rillettes de Tours’ are performed in the geographical area defined in point 4: the preparation of meats, browning, cooking, the standing period, and the final cooking.

3.6. Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc.:

Not applicable.

3.7. Specific rules concerning labelling:

The PGI ‘Rillettes de Tours’ must feature on the labelling.

In addition to the information which must be provided by law, the labelling must include the following information:

1. the trade mark;

2. the European Union's PGI logo;

3. the name and contact details of an addressee of claims.

4. Concise definition of the geographical area:

The geographical area for the production and the initial packaging of ‘Rillettes de Tours’ is defined as follows:

— the area, centred on Tours, corresponds to the distribution area of the recipe for ‘Rillettes de Tours’. Beyond the limits of this geographical area, the recipe for rillettes is not the same. To this can be added the natural barrier of the Forest of Bercé, between the river Sarthe and Indre-et-Loire,

— the geographical area thus defined is similar to that of the former province of Touraine.

The area consists of the department of Indre-et-Loire (37) and the municipalities which are adjacent to the department of Indre-et-Loire, except for those in Sarthe (72).

5. Link with the geographical area:

The connection with the geographical area is based on specific qualities of ‘Rillettes de Tours’ resulting from the application in their production of traditional know-how which has remained localised in the Touraine region. This know-how and the specific qualities of the product give it a reputation which in the mind of the consumer is closely bound with the geographical area.

5.1. Specificity of the geographical area:

Climatic factors

Touraine is characterised by a mild but relatively wet climate, which has impeded the natural development of dried pork products as found in the south of France. It is due to the local climate that rillettes are preserved through cooking. On the other hand, the local climate is favourable for grapevines, leading to a significant amount of wine production which has also influenced the flavouring of ‘Rillettes de Tours’.

Human factors

The peasants of the Tours region began making rillettes in the Middle Ages. Up until the end of the 18th century, this production was very localised in the rural area around Tours and certain farms in Maine.

At the beginning of the 19th century, local butchers took up this peasant recipe, adapted it using their know-how, and began transmitting it from generation to generation. At this point, in Touraine these rillettes became known as ‘Rillettes de Tours’.

One of the main developments was when good quality pieces of meat began to be used rather than scraps. The development of new preservation techniques and the use of uncovered cooking to give the product a fairly dry texture allowed the reduction of the amount of fat used and an increase in the proportion of meat in the rillettes, thus creating a higher quality product. This is the know-how, typical to the city of Tours and the Touraine region, which has been developed by local artisanal butchers. It was not until 1865 that this dish appeared in certain trade publications.

Economic factors

The Touraine region has not seen a high level of industrial development. This has led to a slow development of both the meat production sector, which generally remains very small-scale in Touraine, and of trade in ‘Rillettes de Tours’, thus ensuring the preservation of its distinct artisanal character.

‘Rillettes de Tours’ today remains a dish offered by those butchers who traditionally pass their knowledge on from master to apprentice.

5.2. Specificity of the product:

‘Rillettes de Tours’ are prepared in an open cooking pot. This cooking process is long and traditionally consists of three stages: the browning of the meat at the beginning of the process (from 15 minutes to one hour at a temperature of between 95 °C and 115 °C), then a period of slow cooking (from 5h30 to 12h at a temperature between 65 °C and 95 °C), and finally a short, energetic period of cooking (10-20 minutes at a temperature between 95 °C and 115 °C).

The browning of lean pieces of meat at the beginning of the cooking and the long open cooking stage, which are specific to ‘Rillettes de Tours’, cause not only the dehydration of the product, but also the production of substances important to the taste and aroma which are largely produced through Maillard reactions and are characteristic of the taste of browned meat.

The slow cooking of the pieces of meat in their own fat allows the production of a confit. The separation of the pieces of meat is performed only through cooking, without shredding or beating. As a result, the product retains long meat fibres.

The dry texture of ‘Rillettes de Tours’, originally developed in order to ensure their preservation, is created through this traditional cooking procedure, where the open cooking pot offers a large surface for evaporation. The final energetic cooking stage is also used to improve evaporation at the end of the cooking process.

5.3. Causal link between the geographical area and the quality or characteristics of the product (for PDO) or a specific quality, the reputation or other characteristic of the product (for PGI):

The link with the geographical area is based on know-how which has emerged from tradition and is localised in the Touraine region, giving rise to the specific qualities of ‘Rillettes de Tours’, and also on a reputation which is closely linked with the area in the mind of the consumer.

5.3.1. Know-how

The low moisture levels of ‘Rillettes de Tours’, which originally improved their preservation in this humid region, later also allowed their sale outside of the Touraine region, and offer an explanation of the special reputation of the product, which has a dryer texture than rillettes prepared in neighbouring regions.

The maintaining of this dry texture over time can also be explained by a lower level of preoccupation with yield levels among small-scale producers. The yield is less than 80 %, which is substantially lower than for many other types of rillettes.

The low moisture level of ‘Rillettes de Tours’ allows their preparation without the use of preservatives, despite the fact that these may legally be used.

Due to the artisanal background of the product and the fact that the associated know-how is essentially passed on from master to apprentice, this know-how has remained very localised. In fact, the apprenticeship system in the artisanal butchers' trade operates at a very local level, within just one department or the neighbouring area.

The preservation of a very strong link with the geographical area is confirmed by the fact that 90 % of the prize winners in the ‘Rillettes de Tours’ competition are from this area.

5.3.2. Reputation

The specific characteristics of ‘Rillettes de Tours’ have earned them a well-established reputation. These are the original artisanal rillettes praised by Balzac, a native of Tours, in his 1835 novel The Lily of the Valley.

Since the early 20th century, ‘Rillettes de Tours’ have enjoyed a certain popularity at national level. In 1933, Curnonsky notes, in his work Les trésors gastronomiques de la France: ‘the charcuterie of Touraine has acquired a universal and legitimate renown: ‘Rillettes de Tours’ have become known all over the world.’

A competition of the best ‘Rillettes de Tours’ is organised annually in Touraine. This distinction is highly sought-after, and 30 butchers compete for the title each year. In 2011 the Concours Général Agricole (General Agricultural Fair) in Paris paid tribute to the product's reputation by opening a special ‘Rillettes de Tours’ section.

Reference to publication of the specification:

(Article 5(7) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006)

https://www.inao.gouv.fr/fichier/CDCIGPRillettesDeTours.pdf

(1) OJ L 93, 31.3.2006, p. 12.