EN Official Journal of the European Union C 51/29

Publication of an application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2018/C 51/09)

This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1).

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘CHOUCROUTE D'ALSACE’

EU No: FR-PGI-0005-01066 – 29.11.2012

PDO ( ) PGI ( X )

1. Name

‘Choucroute d'Alsace’

2. Member State or Third Country

France

3. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1. Type of product

Class 1.6. Fruit, vegetables and cereals, fresh or processed

3.2. Description of the product to which the name in 1 applies

The ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ is a processed vegetable produced by the natural anaerobic lactic acid fermentation of shredded cabbage leaves (Brassica oleracea L.) which are salted and put in fermentation vats.

The lactic bacteria naturally found on cabbage leaves and in the vats ferment the sugars in the cabbage that form lactic acid.

Choucroute is a nutritionally balanced product: it is slightly acidic (but not overly so) and slightly sweet (the natural sugars in the cabbage have been used for the natural lactic fermentation).

It can be prepared in two ways:

— choucroute crue [raw choucroute];

— choucroute cuite [cooked choucroute], which has been cooked after fermentation. In the latter case, animal fat (lard, goose fat or duck fat) or vegetable oil, lardons (within the 10 % limit), alcohol (white Alsace AOC wine (controlled designation of origin), AOC Crémant d'Alsace or beer), broth, herbs and spices (salt, pepper, juniper, garlic, onion, bay leaves, coriander, cumin, thyme), ascorbic acid or flavourings may be added to the choucroute when cooking.

The distinctive characteristics of raw ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ are:

— white to pale yellow in colour;

— a pungent smell, typical of fermented cabbage;

— a slightly crunchy texture;

— a slightly sour taste: pH≤ 4 and titratable acidity ≥ 1 %;

— long, thin shreds: the weight percentage of fresh-cut cabbage shreds, which are over 15 cm in length, is more than 50 %;

— the weight of the large portion of stalk, called ‘buds’, is below 5 %.

The raw ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ is characterised by:

— a white to light yellow colour;

— long, thin shreds;

— a firm texture;

— a slightly sour taste: the titratable acidity, expressed as % lactic acid, is between 0,4 % and 1 %.

3.3. Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The varieties authorised to produce the cabbages are listed and updated annually based on an evaluation of each variety's results with regard to the quality objectives that cover:

— agronomic qualities (minimum average cabbage weight of 3 kg, early ripening, maturation);

— susceptibility to necrosis (which has a negative effect on the choucroute's appearance: namely its structure and colour);

— qualities that make the cabbage suitable for making choucroute (easy to cut, homogeneity, white to pale yellow shreds, the length and thinness of the shreds).

The following varieties are currently used: almanac, alsior, ambrosia, atria, brigadier, burton, cabton, jubilée, landini, liberator, mandy, megaton, neuropa, novoton, padoc, passat, puccini, ramco, ramkila, septdor, tobia, transam, tyhoon and vestri.

The list of varieties is distributed to producers each year, as well as to the inspection body and the competent monitoring authorities.

The cabbages are harvested at optimal maturity, and have the following characteristics: minimum average weight of 3 kg, a firm heart, degradation of colour from green to yellow above the heart.

There are no restrictions regarding the origin of the cabbages.

3.4. Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

The steps by which the cabbage is made into choucroute (cutting, salting, fermentation) and the cooking (for cooked choucroute) take place in the defined geographical area.

3.5. Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

The ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ is packaged in the geographical area.

Choucroute is a product that is affected by exposure to both air and light, which trigger oxidative processes that adversely alter its taste; it should therefore be handled as little as possible.

For this reason, filling up the jars or packets requires the producers' expertise. It must be carried out carefully in order not to break the long, thin shreds of ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’.

Cooked ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ is packaged immediately after cooking.

3.6. Specific rules concerning labelling of the product to which the registered name refers

The label must include the term ‘vegetable’. This should be in the same part of the label as the name of the PGI ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ and the font size (except capitals) should be at least equal to half the font size of the name of the PGI.

4. Concise definition of the geographical area

The geographical area covers the region of Alsace, i.e. the Bas-Rhin and Haut-Rhin departments.

5. Link with the geographical area

Specificity of the geographical area

Alsace has a semi-continental climate characterised by cold and dry winters and hot and stormy summers, due to the protection offered by the Vosges mountain to the west.

Historically, the cultivation of cabbages flourished in Alsace because it offered suitable growing conditions. The soil, which is rich in nutrients with excellent water retention, and the climatic cycle (rainy in springtime with peak rainfall in May, hot and stormy summers and reduced rainfall towards the end of the year), are well adapted to the growth cycle of cabbage which contributed to the development of this crop.

Choucroute is historically and strongly associated with Alsace as demonstrated by the etymology and the origin of the word choucroute which is an adaptation of the Alsatian word Sürkrüt (sür: which means sour and krüt: cabbage).

The origin of the choucroute goes back so far that it is difficult to determine exactly how it came about. However, its link with Alsace is undeniable, as stated for example by Charles Gerard (L'Ancienne Alsace à table, 1877). He wrote that ‘Choucroute has no origin other than its inhabitants. The inhabitants and the dish are as old as each other, so lost in the same deep, dark night of history’.

Some of the earliest written references date back to the 16th century. These include the Krauterbuch by Jérôme Bock (1539), in which, when enumerating the housewives' tasks in winter, the author wrote that she salted the cabbage and mentioned the Sauerkappes (sour cabbage — choucroute).

Jean-Louis Schlienger and André Braun, by way of example, provide a detailed description of the age-old method of making choucroute: ‘Every household prepared its own choucroute. The white cabbage head, chosen for its health and density, stripped of its green leaves and its stalk, was sliced using a special knife made from a board equipped with two or three sharp angled blades that were run over the cabbage secured in a wooden box. […] The shredded cabbage was arranged in layers of approximately 8 cm deep in a stoneware barrel the base of which had been sprinkled with salt and herbs. […] this process continued until the container was full. […] the mixture […] was left to ferment for three to four weeks, safe from frost.

When they removed choucroute from the barrel to eat it, they would drain it the brine […], and water would be added to the barrel to prevent the air from affecting the remaining cabbage that gave out a strong and appetising smell.’ (Le Mangeur alsacien, deux mille ans de gastronomie, 2000).

These statements clearly describe the choucroute produced in Alsace as a vegetable.

The manufacturing process of ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ is straightforward but requires special skills.

In addition to using the appropriate cabbage variety harvested at optimum maturity, the cabbage must be prepared with extreme care in order to obtain the characteristic long, thin, white shreds. Verifying the freshness of the cabbage, which is then cored, trimmed and grated are the key steps for ensuring high quality results. The amount of salt used is adjusted depending on the weather conditions when the cabbage is put in the fermentation vat.

The fermentation is natural, without any intervention to accelerate the fermentation process. The lactic bacteria on the cabbage and in the environment (in the fermentation vats) bring about the fermentation. This is why choucroute producers are careful not to disinfect the vats which are only cleaned with water to preserve the bacterial flora, which guarantees the choucroute's organoleptic quality.

Packaging the raw choucroute, or cooking and packaging the cooked choucroute, also require the expertise of the choucroute producers to preserve the long, thin shreds of ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’. Careful handling by skilled staff is essential to avoid breaking the choucroute shreds.

Specificity of the product

‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ is characterised by:

— its long, thin shreds;

— its white to pale yellow colour;

— its slightly crisp texture (for raw choucroute), or firm texture (for cooked choucroute);

— its slightly sour taste.

Causal link

The link with the geographical area of ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ is based on its specific quality and reputation.

Two natural factors are responsible for the development of the production method for choucroute in Alsace: the pedoclimatic conditions that are suitable for growing cabbages, and the harsh winters of the semi-continental climate. In this respect, the local inhabitants of Alsace used this processing technique of fermentation which enabled the cabbage available locally in large quantities to be conserved, while preserving its nutritional qualities. The choucroute could thus be eaten throughout the winter.

The fine-tuning, since the Middle Ages, of this technique has resulted in the development of an authentic expertise that is always deployed by Alsatian choucroute restaurants.

The cabbage varieties, the growing methods, the freshness of the cabbages when processed together with the expertise with regard to coring and slicing, enable the production of ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ with its characteristic long, thin shreds.

Expert salting (in terms of quantity and distribution) then natural fermentation of the cabbage, subjected to the climatic conditions in Alsace, and the action of the lactic flora of the cabbages and the fermentation vats determine the organoleptic characteristics of ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’: its taste is slightly sour and the texture slightly crunchy. Salting is essential for the choucroute's conservation, consistency and colour. The anaerobic fermentation prevents the cabbage's oxidation and thus maintains the white to pale yellow colour that is typical of ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’. This process, which takes place in vats and premises where the temperature is not regulated, is directly subject to the climatic conditions of the geographical area that determine its duration and dictate the quality of the finished product. As a result, it can last from two weeks to several months, depending on the outdoor temperature. The monitoring and control of this process, critical for the quality of ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’, thus depends largely on the expertise and experience of the choucroute producer.

Finally, the process of handling the choucroute when it is taken out of the fermentation vats, cooked where applicable, and packaged, requires the expertise of the producers in the geographical area in order to preserve the wholeness of the shreds that are very fragile and break easily.

The ancient and current reputation of ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ is closely linked to the strong local tradition of growing, preparing and eating this vegetable in Alsace.

‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ was widely used as a side dish for different types of food. Moreover, Urbain Dubois presented ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ as a praiseworthy garnish: ‘Choucroute as a garnish — The choucroute of Alsace should be our preferred choice’ (Nouvelle Cuisine bourgeoise pour la ville et la campagne, 1888).

Until the 19th century, ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ was commonly eaten, whether raw or cooked, by the least affluent households. This is evidenced by Dr Maugue's essays which state that ‘The Alsatians ferment these giant headed cabbages to make them sour after shredding them; these cabbages were delicious to eat and the local staple food’ (Histoire naturelle de la province d'Alsace, 1726) Jean-Louis Schlienger and André Braun further clarify how cooked choucroute was eaten when they wrote: ‘Choucroute is eaten as a winter vegetable after being cooked on low heat for 5 hours. […] It could be used instead of fresh cabbage in stews, or cooked with bacon or lard on festive occasions in wealthy households. […] but it was also recommended to garnish it with bacon, potatoes, sausages and other cuts of pork’ (publication cited above). When Georges de Ribeaupierre, Lord of Alsace, married Elisabeth Heifenstein on 6 November 1543, the choucroute, which was in all probability cooked, was served as a side dish to accompany liver.

The German annexation of Alsace in 1871, which prompted the departure of many of the local inhabitants of Alsace-Moselle, helped to popularise this product in France.

Even today, ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ is well-known for its organoleptic qualities: ‘The Choucroute produced between Vosges and the Rhine is the only good one. It is tasty, savoury and with the requisite bite.’ (Marchal, P.L., les journées de la choucroute de Colmar ou les rencontres des citadins et des agriculteurs sous le signe de la gastronomie — The choucroute festivals in Colmar or where city dwellers meet farmers in honour of gastronomy, Seasons of Alsace, winter 1968, No 25).

Tony Hartmann, chef, pastry cook and renowned confectioner, who is originally from Alsace, also points out that ‘Cooked or raw, as a sorbet or a jam, choucroute is still being talked about.’ (Variations autour de la Choucroute, Éditions Hirlé, 2005).

Lastly, many villages organise ‘Choucroute d'Alsace’ festivals every autumn, such as Krautergersheim, a village known for its choucroute, which has been organising its own festival since 1973.

Reference to publication of the specification

(the second subparagraph of Article 6(1) of this Regulation)

https://www.inao.gouv.fr/fichier/CDC-IGP-ChoucrouteAlsace2016.pdf

(1) OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.