EN Official Journal of the European Union C 396/7

Publication of an application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2016/C 396/07)

This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1).

SINGLE DOCUMENT

Council Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs (*)

‘WEST WALES CORACLE-CAUGHT SALMON’

EC No: UK-PGI-0005-01179 — 12.11.2013

PGI ( X ) PDO ( )

1. Name

‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’

2. Member State or Third Country

United Kingdom

3. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1. Type of product

Class 1.7. Fresh fish, molluscs and crustaceans and products derived therefrom.

3.2. Description of product to which the name in (1) applies

‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’ is the name given to fish of the Salmo salar species which have been caught using the ancient Welsh traditional method of coracle fishing.

Fresh ‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’ are bright silver, with a dark blue back and black spots which are located predominantly above the lateral line although the caudal fin is usually unspotted. The flesh is firm with a dense texture and a distinctive pink/red colour and has a fresh fish smell described by the coracle fishermen as being similar to the smell of a ‘watermelon’

‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’ are caught as soon as they enter the river system from the sea in the low and tidal waters of the river before they become characteristically inactive in the environment of the river and their reserves are depleted. The fish are fresh, with firm flesh and superior developed muscle quality resulting in denser texture with high muscle protein and oil content. They have a visibly elongated athletic shape, without excessive fat deposition resulting from their lengthy swim at sea and the high-quality feeding grounds available whilst at sea.

The overall shape and size of ‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’ will vary due to their wild nature and, due to its wild nature, this salmon does not contain any artificial additives and/or colourings. ‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’ are a minimum size of 1 kg and maximum size of 15 kg. They have perfect markings with scales intact and are free from distortion to their tail, fins or head. In addition the tail fin is more developed and when extended is concave and the wrist of the tail is narrow with distinct broadening on the tail side of the wrist. The jaw of the salmon extends no further than the rear edge of the eye and the male salmon has a pronounced ‘beak’. As coracle fishing catches salmon singularly and not in multiples ‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’ is not as susceptible to bruising, flesh damage and distortions that can occur with other farmed or drift-net-caught salmon. This contributes to the eating quality of ‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’ with its pristine firm flesh and dense texture.

When cooked, ‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’ has a distinct, strong, sweet ‘fresh’ taste with subtle oily tones which are not overbearing to the palate and the flesh is firm with a dense texture.

‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’ are primarily sold whole and mostly freshly caught although the salmon may be sold frozen.

3.3. Raw materials (for processed products only)

—

3.4. Feed (for products of animal origin only)

—

3.5. Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’ must be caught using the ancient traditional method of coracle fishing during the salmon season, which varies according to which of the three rivers in West Wales are being fished:

— on the Tywi the salmon season is 1 June-31 July,

— on the Teifi the salmon season is 1 June-31 August,

— on the Taf the salmon season is 1 June-31 July.

3.6. Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc.

—

3.7. Specific rules concerning labelling

—

4. Concise definition of the geographical area

The areas in the rivers Tywi, Taf and Teifi in West Wales as follows:

— River Tywi: In that part of the river which lies between an imaginary line drawn straight across the Tywi river from the railway pumping station near the old tinplate works at national grid reference (NGR) SN 420205 and an imaginary line drawn straight across the Tywi at NGR SN 394137,

— River Teifi: In that part of the river that lies between Cardigan bridge and Llechryd bridge,

— River Taf: In the part of the river which lies between the main road bridge on the A477 between Carmarthen-Pembroke and approximately 1,6 km downstream to an imaginary line drawn straight across the river Taf from Wharley point to Ginst point.

5. Link with the geographical area

5.1. Specificity of the geographical area

The water in the Taf, Tywi and Teifi rivers situated in West Wales is of a very high quality and is regularly monitored and recorded by Natural Resource Wales. The sources of these rivers lie deep in the Cambrian or Preseli mountains in a very rural catchment area with a distinct lack of industry. Both the Tywi and Teifi rivers have been classed as Special Areas of Conservation (SAC) under the European Habitats Directive and salmon is listed as a designated feature of the Teifi SAC. The pollution levels in the three rivers are very low, and they have been awarded grade ‘A’ status, demonstrating that the rivers have ‘natural ecosystems and make very good salmonid and cyprinid fisheries’. The high quality of the river water and the fact that coracle fishing is designed to catch fish singularly (and not in multiples), result in coracle-caught salmon being caught in unblemished pristine condition which contributes to its eating quality.

Coracle fishing is an ancient way of fishing for migratory fish and legally the only method of fishing allowed on these Welsh rivers where salmon can be caught and sold. It is an old craft and skill, recorded in the 11th century, that has survived into the 21st century — ‘a living tradition’. Although coracles were once used extensively throughout Wales, they are now exclusive to the Taf, Tywi and Teifi. These three rivers are the only places in Europe where coracle fishing is still practised. One coracle fisherman currently fishing the River Tywi is from a family that have been coracle fishing the river for over 300 years. Coracles are small, oval-shaped vessels with a plank across the middle to form a seat. They are hand-made from ash and willow and are of basket construction. Each coracle carries one fisherman and is steered by a single-handed scull. Coracle fishing involves a pair of coracles working together, with a net suspended between them. Fishing takes place mainly at night to prevent the salmon seeing the shadow of the coracle or the net coming towards them, as they return to their spawning ground. Coracle fishing is highly regulated, only allowing coracle fishing to take place within specific low-water and tidal areas. The lines of demarcation are stated in the fishing bylaws. All coracle fishermen have to be licensed and coracle nets are covered by legislation.

The salmon travel to their spawning ground along the beds of the river following the contours of the river. This knowledge has been accrued by the coracle men over centuries of fishing. The net is trawled on the bed of the river using small lead weights. The net catches fish in the first 18 inches above the riverbed; any fish swimming above that height will escape capture. The cork line keeps the head of the net in a forward arced position and the two coracles keep the mouth of the net open. A key skill associated with coracle fishing and net making is the unique leading system which is the number and weight of lead weights attached to the coracle nets. The leading system is complex and is based on the Fibonacci series of numbers in nature. It is taught through practice and is a skill passed down through the generations.

It is illegal to catch and sell salmon from these rivers by any method other than coracle fishing. This helps to preserve, monitor and ensure traceability of coracle-caught salmon.

The season for rod and line fishing (for sporting purposes only) starts and finishes later than the coracle season.

Rod and line caught salmon are exposed to the mud and silt of the river for longer periods, causing these fish to have an ‘earthier’ taste and are often discoloured by falling leaves whilst they lie characteristically inactive in pools. Their inactivity contributes to their energy reserves being depleted.

5.2. Specificity of the product

‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’ are wild migratory fish which have the ability to live in fresh water rivers and the sea. The salmon spawn and live for the first few years in the Teifi, Taf and Tywi. In early spring each year, they migrate to the sea to feed and grow. After approximately 2 years, they return to the three West Wales rivers of their birth to spawn. Muscle tone would be more developed in wild salmon in comparison to farmed salmon because of the distance covered during their migration and the high quality of their feeding grounds whilst at sea. It is whilst feeding at sea that their energy reserves are laid down.

The muscle tone develops during their migratory swim resulting in a dense texture and firm flesh without excessive fat deposits. These characteristics are preserved by the method of fishing which ensures that the fish are caught in their prime, as they enter the river system in the low and tidal waters of the river and before they become characteristically inactive and their reserves are depleted in the environment of the river. This contributes to ‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’ having more tender, distinct, strong, sweet ‘fresh’ taste with subtle oily tones which are not overbearing to the palate and the flesh is firm with a dense texture.

Coracle nets have a restrictive net mesh of not less than 10 cm which means that smaller salmon escape through the net ensuring the sustainability of coracle fishing. Scottish wild salmon have a restrictive net mesh of not less than 9 cm and rod-and-line-caught salmon can catch smaller fish.

5.3. Causal link between the geographical area and the quality or characteristics of the product (for PDO) or a specific quality, the reputation or other characteristic of the product (for PGI)

The basis of the PGI application is based on the attributes of a unique quality product whose specific characteristics are linked to:

— the quality of the fresh water where the fish are born and then return to breed,

— the migratory distance that the ‘wild’ fish swims whilst at sea,

— the high quality of their feeding grounds at sea — the fish only feed whilst at sea and it is at sea where their energy reserves are laid down in the form of muscle protein,

— the fact that coracle fishing is a unique traditional method of fishing designed to catch the fish singularly in pristine condition as soon as they enter the river system from the sea and before their energy reserves become depleted. As the fish is caught in pristine condition this ensures the unique freshness of the fish with sea lice often still visible on the surface of the fish. Coracle fishermen describe the salmon as having a distinctive fresh ‘watermelon’ smell.

The factors mentioned above contribute to the characteristics of the fish being an unblemished, fresh product which has firm flesh and superior developed muscle quality with high muscle protein and oil content without excessive fat deposition. These characteristics are reflected in the eating quality of the fish when cooked which has a distinct, strong, sweet ‘fresh’ taste with subtle oily tones and a flesh which is firm with a dense texture.

Although coracles were once used extensively throughout Wales, they are now exclusive to the Taf, Tywi and Teifi rivers in West Wales. Coracle fishing has been in existence in one family currently fishing the river Tywi for over 300 years.

Welsh coracle fishing dates back to the 1800s. It encompasses many skills that have been passed down from one generation to the next such as coracle making, net making, knowing which tidal spots to fish and the ability to read the river and take factors such as the depth of the river, the tide and wind conditions all into consideration. Coracle fishing involves tremendous skill and precision steering and navigating whilst controlling the position of the net and remaining buoyant. The skill is accentuated by the fact that coracle fishing mainly takes place at night. Traditionally coracles are hand-made from ash, willow and are of a basket construction. Although the design and method of making the coracles has remained unchanged for centuries, developments in modern materials now incorporate calico, canvas and fibreglass in their construction.

‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’ is a recognised quality product which is synonymous with food heritage and food culture in the area and is used by many top chefs and gastronomes. In the coracle fishing season, the fish regularly appears as a seasonal product on menus at renowned local establishments and is much sought after by both locals and tourists. It is also smoked and used as an ingredient in, for example, terrines. These products are currently sold to prestigious food outlets in London and throughout the UK.

‘West Wales coracle-caught smoked salmon’ is currently sold in the food halls of Harrods London and has been sold in Fortnum and Mason, London.

Simon Wright, food critic of the Good Food Guide:

‘There are many outstanding foods to be found in this part of Wales but I have no doubt that “West Wales coracle-caught salmon” with its fresh superior muscle tone and firmness of flesh is the one that stands out as being quite unique and in many ways defines the food culture of the region. It’s not just about the taste, which is peerless, but it’s the whole story, tradition and history that accompany it.’

‘West Wales coracle-caught salmon’ when cooked or smoked is rich in flavour has a dense firm texture, is a deep pink/red in colour and is low in fat. The colour however does slightly vary from fish to fish due to its wild origins.

Reference to publication of the specification

(Article 5(7) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006)

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/protected-food-name-west-wales-coracle-caught-salmon-pgi

(1) OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.

(*) Replaced by Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 21 November 2012 on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs