Publication of a communication of approval of a standard amendment to a product specification for a name in the wine sector referred to in Article 17(2) and (3) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33

(2022/C 183/11)

This communication is published in accordance with Article 17(5) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33 (1).

NOTIFICATION OF A STANDARD AMENDMENT TO THE SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘Neszmély / Neszmélyi’

PDO-HU-A1335-AM02

Date of communication: 9 February 2022

DESCRIPTION OF AND REASONS FOR THE APPROVED AMENDMENT

Expansion of the demarcated area – the inclusion of Bana and Bokod municipalities in the wine region

a) Product specification headings affected: — IV. Demarcated area — VIII. Further conditions, 4. Smaller geographical units that can be indicated on the label

b) Single document headings affected: — Chapter 6: Demarcated geographical area — Chapter 9: Further conditions, rules on indications, municipalities that can be indicated

c) Justification: The two municipalities used to be part of the historical wine-growing region, where wine-growing traditions still exist. The vine growers in the municipalities wish to rejoin the production area. Examinations established that the soil, climatic conditions, viticultural and winemaking characteristics of the production areas of these municipalities do not differ from those of the Neszmély PDO production area. The characteristics of the wine products made from grapes from this area correspond to those set out in the product specification.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

1. Name(s) of the product

Neszmély

Neszmélyi

2. Geographical indication type

PDO – Protected Designation of Origin

3. Categories of grapevine product

1. Wine

4. Sparkling wine

4. Description of the wines

1. Wine – White

CONCISE TEXTUAL DESCRIPTION

The wines range in colour from pale green to straw-yellow. Dry, semi-sweet or sweet white wines, with a lively acidity, a secondary aroma with little to no trace of ageing in barrels. Their defining feature is a spicy, floral or fruity aroma. With the exception of blended wines, the wines always clearly reflect the distinct characteristics of each variety. The maximum total sugar content of the wines is 263 g/litre. The limits laid down in the EU legislation apply to the maximum total alcoholic strength and maximum total sulphur dioxide.

General analytical characteristics Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume) Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume) 9 Minimum total acidity 4,5 g/l expressed as tartaric acid Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre) 18 Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre)

2. Wine – Rosé

CONCISE TEXTUAL DESCRIPTION

Pale pink, pink, violet or salmon (onion skin)-colour wines, with bright acidity, fruity aroma and flavour, and no trace of barrel-ageing. The maximum total sugar content of the wines is 263 g/litre. The limits laid down in the EU legislation apply to the maximum total alcoholic strength and maximum total sulphur dioxide.

General analytical characteristics Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume) Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume) 9 Minimum total acidity 4,5 g/l expressed as tartaric acid Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre) 18 Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre)

3. Wine – Red

CONCISE TEXTUAL DESCRIPTION

The red wines are a dark violet to ruby to more intense ruby in colour and have a simple red berry character and vivid acidity. These are youthful wines, with minimal oak and tannin aromas. They are typically made for fresh consumption. The maximum total sugar content of the wines is 263 g/litre. The limits laid down in the EU legislation apply to the maximum total alcoholic strength and maximum total sulphur dioxide.

General analytical characteristics Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume) Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume) 9 Minimum total acidity 4,5 g/l expressed as tartaric acid Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre) 18 Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre)

4. Sparkling wine

CONCISE TEXTUAL DESCRIPTION

Pale straw-yellow in colour, with a bright, pronounced acidity and a varied nose, but mostly a white-fleshed fruit character. Medium intensity, long-lasting sparkle. The limits laid down in the EU legislation apply to the maximum total alcoholic strength and maximum total sulphur dioxide.

General analytical characteristics Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume) Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume) 9 Minimum total acidity 5 g/l expressed as tartaric acid Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre) 13,33 Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre)

5. Wine-making practices

5.1. Specific oenological practices

1. Oenological practices not permitted

Relevant restriction on making the wines

Sweetening, with the exception of sparkling wine, may be carried out with concentrated must or rectified concentrated must produced in the Neszmély wine region.

It is forbidden to enrich or sweeten wines indicating the expression ‘töppedt szőlőből készült bor’ [wine made from raisined grapes] or ‘késői szüretelésű bor’ [late-harvest wine].

The sparkling wine may be produced only in accordance with the general methods of traditional ageing in bottles.

The sugar content of the sparkling wine may be brut, dry, semi-dry or semi-sweet.

2. Rules on grape production (1)

Cultivation practice

1. Rules on training the vine: a. In the case of vineyards planted before 1 August 2010, winery products with the Neszmély protected designation of origin may be produced from grapes harvested from vineyards with any plantation density and cultivation method authorised earlier, as long as production is continued in the vineyard. b. For vineyards planted after 1 August 2010: i. Umbrella ii. Moser iii. Sylvoz iv. Low, medium-high and high cordon v. Guyot vi. Head-training vii. Gobelet training

2. Rules on vine density in the vineyard: a. For vineyards planted before 1 August 2010, winery products with the Neszmély protected designation of origin may be produced from grapes harvested from vineyards with any plantation density authorised earlier, as long as production is continued in the vineyard. b. For vineyards planted after 1 August 2010: minimum 3 333 vines/ha

3. Rules on grape production (2)

Cultivation practice

3. Yield limits: a. For the production of Neszmélyi II/1 PDO wines and Neszmélyi II/2 sparkling wines, grapes from vineyards with a maximum yield of 100 hl/ha of new wine on the lees may be used. For grapes intended for sale, the maximum yield is 14 t/ha. b. Neszmély II/1 PDO wines distinguished by an indication of the municipality can be produced from new wine on the lees with a maximum yield of 100 hl/ha obtained from grapes with a maximum yield of 14 t/ha. c. All types of Neszmély wine under point II/1 may be produced with an indication of the slope names listed under point 4.2, provided that the yield does not exceed 80 hl/ha of new wine on the lees, or 11.5 t/ha in the case of grapes for sale. d. Where the expression ‘töppedt szőlőből készült bor’ [wine made from raisined grapes] or ‘késői szüretelésű bor’ [late-harvest wine] is used, new wine on the lees with a maximum yield of 50 hl/ha obtained from grapes with a maximum yield of 7 t/ha may be used.

4. The quality of the grapes (natural sugar content (g/l) and potential alcoholic strength of the grapes (tf%)): — For the wines, minimum 153 g/l – 9 vol %, maximum 263 g/l – 15,5 vol % — For the sparkling wines, minimum 153 g/l – 9 vol %, maximum 190 g/l – 11 vol %

5.2. Maximum yields

1. Wine 100 hectolitres per hectare

2. Wines indicating the slope name 80 hectolitres per hectare

3. Wine 14 000 kg of grapes per hectare

4. Wines indicating the slope name 11 500 kg of grapes per hectare

5. Sparkling wine 100 hectolitres per hectare

6. Sparkling wine 14 000 kg of grapes per hectare

6. Demarcated geographical area

Description of the demarcated area:

The areas of the following municipalities classified as Class I and Class II according to the vineyard cadastre: Ászár, Baj, Bajót, Bana, Bársonyos, Bokod, Császár, Csép, Dunaalmás, Dunaszentmiklós, Esztergom, Ete, Kerékteleki, Kesztölc, Kisbér, Kocs, Lábatlan, Mocsa, Mogyorósbánya, Nagyigmánd, Neszmély, Nyergesújfalu, Süttő, Szomód, Tata, Tát, Tokod, Vérteskethely and Vértesszőlős.

7. Main wine grape variety(ies)

cabernet franc – cabernet

cabernet franc – carbonet

cabernet franc – carmenet

cabernet franc – gros cabernet

cabernet franc – gros vidur

cabernet franc – kaberne fran

cabernet sauvignon

chardonnay – chardonnay blanc

chardonnay – kereklevelű

chardonnay – morillon blanc

chardonnay – ronci bilé

cserszegi fűszeres

ezerjó – kolmreifler

ezerjó – korponai

ezerjó – szadocsina

ezerjó – tausendachtgute

ezerjó – tausendgute

ezerjó – trummertraube

hárslevelű – feuilles de tilleul

hárslevelű – garszleveljü

hárslevelű – lindeblättrige

hárslevelű – lipovina

irsai olivér – irsai

irsai olivér – muskat olivér

irsai olivér – zolotis

irsai olivér – zolotisztüj rannüj

juhfark – fehérboros

juhfark – lämmerschwantz

juhfark – mohácsi

juhfark – tarpai

királyleányka – dánosi leányka

királyleányka – erdei sárga

királyleányka – feteasca regale

királyleányka – galbena de ardeal

királyleányka – königliche mädchentraube

királyleányka – königstochter

királyleányka – little princess

kékfrankos – blauer lemberger

kékfrankos – blauer limberger

kékfrankos – blaufränkisch

kékfrankos – limberger

kékfrankos – moravka

leányka – dievcenske hrozno

leányka – feteasca alba

leányka – leányszőlő

leányka – mädchentraube

merlot

olasz rizling – grasevina

olasz rizling – nemes rizling

olasz rizling – olaszriesling

olasz rizling – riesling italien

olasz rizling – risling vlassky

olasz rizling – taljanska grasevina

olasz rizling – welschriesling

ottonel muskotály – miszket otonel

ottonel muskotály – muscat ottonel

ottonel muskotály – muskat ottonel

pinot blanc – fehér burgundi

pinot blanc – pinot beluj

pinot blanc – pinot bianco

pinot blanc – weissburgunder

pinot noir – blauer burgunder

pinot noir – kisburgundi kék

pinot noir – kék burgundi

pinot noir – kék rulandi

pinot noir – pignula

pinot noir – pino csernüj

pinot noir – pinot cernii

pinot noir – pinot nero

pinot noir – pinot tinto

pinot noir – rulandski modre

pinot noir – savagnin noir

pinot noir – spätburgunder

rajnai rizling – johannisberger

rajnai rizling – rheinriesling

rajnai rizling – rhine riesling

rajnai rizling – riesling

rajnai rizling – riesling blanc

rajnai rizling – weisser riesling

rizlingszilváni – müller thurgau

rizlingszilváni – müller thurgau bijeli

rizlingszilváni – müller thurgau blanc

rizlingszilváni – rivaner

rizlingszilváni – rizvanac

sauvignon – sauvignon bianco

sauvignon – sauvignon bijeli

sauvignon – sauvignon blanc

sauvignon – sovinjon

szürkebarát – auvergans gris

szürkebarát – grauburgunder

szürkebarát – graumönch

szürkebarát – pinot grigio

szürkebarát – pinot gris

szürkebarát – ruländer

sárga muskotály – moscato bianco

sárga muskotály – muscat blanc

sárga muskotály – muscat bélüj

sárga muskotály – muscat de frontignan

sárga muskotály – muscat de lunel

sárga muskotály – muscat lunel

sárga muskotály – muscat sylvaner

sárga muskotály – muscat zlty

sárga muskotály – muskat weisser

sárga muskotály – weiler

sárga muskotály – weisser

tramini – gewürtztraminer

tramini – roter traminer

tramini – savagnin rose

tramini – tramin cervené

tramini – traminer

tramini – traminer rosso

zenit

zweigelt – blauer zweigeltrebe

zweigelt – rotburger

zweigelt – zweigeltrebe

8. Description of the link(s)

8.1. Wine and sparkling wine (1)

1. Description of the demarcated area

a) Natural factors

The climate and weather conditions in the wine region are balanced. The number of sunshine hours is between 1 950 and 2 000 hours and rainfall is between 550 and 650 mm. The soils are mainly brown forest soil with a marl base in the lowland area of Ászár, and loess, limestone, dolomite and sandstone in the upland area of Neszmély. The loess produces high-quality wine. On the basis of the ecological conditions, the vast majority of the vineyards in the wine region belong to cadastral Class I. The area with the highest value is in Dunaszentmiklós (366).

Most of the vineyards are located in the western part of the Gerecse. The Danube lies to the north, the Small Hungarian Plain to the west. The Danube created a microclimate on the mild northern slopes. The sunlight reflecting off the surface of the river, especially in the afternoon, is good for grape production.

The rolling hills and the moderately cool and humid weather – slightly less sunny than the Hungarian average – favourably modified by the microclimate of the Danube, favour the production of wines rich in aromas and flavours.

b) Human factors

The Danube served as the border of the Roman Empire. In the 2nd century AD, Emperor Probus ordered the soldiers stationed here to plant vines on the hillsides of the Gerecse facing the Danube. The history of the wine region dates back to that era. A tombstone found in the Szaller vineyard on the Ispita hill in Esztergom is evidence of viticulture. The tombstone shows a Roman warrior and a woman, with a boy between them, holding a goblet. The relief is surrounded by a wreath of vines.

According to contemporary written artefacts, the region around Neszmély and Dunaalmás enjoyed its heyday after the Hungarian conquest and the foundation of the state, when Esztergom became the capital of the country. In 1422, Neszmély was still a city. The surrounding vineyards, orchards and forests have attracted many visitors, including Hungarian kings. The first real herald of Neszmély wines was King Sigismund, who drank the wines of the region even during his long absences.

Viniculture started to flourish again after the end of the Ottoman occupation. During the rule of Maria Theresa, there was a lively wine trade in the area. Neszmély wines, the firmest and most characterful wines after Somló wines even at that time, were able to withstand water transport, and thus became known almost all over Europe. The abbey of Klosterneuburg had its own cellar and vineyards in Dunaalmás, and wine from the region was even served to the Pope.

Ferenc Schams (1780–1839) was the first to write a comprehensive monograph on the Hungarian wine regions. At that time, Neszmély wines were said to mature perfectly only after 4 or 5 years, and then the older they were, the clearer their golden colour. In 1832, Ferenc Schams wrote the following: ‘Neszmély wine is undoubtedly the best wine of the Komárom district, the finest white table wine of Hungary, and is known both at home and abroad for its goodness and persistence as well as its delicately pleasant taste.’ In the second half of the 19th century, the Eszterházy estate vineyard and winery in Ászár formed the basis of the Neszmély wine region, which was established in 1897.

In 1905, Count Ferenc Eszterházy established a royal sparkling wine factory in the winery built in the English garden in Tata in 1772.

The phylloxera epidemic put an end to the flourishing grape and wine production. The area under vines fell to almost a third, and the quality also declined sharply with the exploitation of sandy areas. On the positive side, after the phylloxera epidemic, the Olaszrizling variety of French origin spread across the wine region and grew well here. The former grape varieties were replaced by new ones; Kadarka and Rácfekete were marginalised and replaced by the well-established Olaszrizling, Mézesfehér and Góhér, Piros veltelíni, Zöldszilváni and Ezerjó. Kékfrankos and Oportó were also among the red-grape varieties produced here.

2. Description of the wines

The natural environment and historical traditions described above, and the change of grape varieties in the last 15 years, allow for the production of wines with different styles in the Neszmély region. This diversity is based on the beautiful, characteristic acidity resulting from the climatic conditions of the wine region. Building on the acidic backbone is the full-bodied, fiery flavour which allows for longer ageing and is a result of the various soil conditions. Modern winemaking techniques also favour the production of lively and fresh wines rich in fruity aromas and primary flavours made from grapes with the above characteristics.

The Neszmély PDO wines of the region are white wines reflecting the distinct characteristics of each variety, rich in aromas and flavours, with fine acidity, and made for consumption within 1–2 years.

Wines of this style are mainly made from the Chardonnay, Szürkebarát, Irsai Olivér, Cserszegi fűszeres, Sauvignon and Királyleányka varieties.

Traditional varieties such as Olaszrizling, Szürkebarát, Ezerjó and Rizlingszilváni give very good wines in the above style, but in the flat areas of the wine region, the wines have less fragrance and more of the distinct aromas of each variety, and are fuller.

8.2. Wine and sparkling wine (2)

3. Link between the production area, human factors and the product

All types of Neszmély wine are characterised by a nice, distinct acidic backbone. The balanced, moderately humid weather promotes the formation of strong acids. The winegrowers in the region sought out hillsides, slopes overlooking the Danube, and areas with good soil conditions, where, in addition to the distinct acidity, beautiful flavours and aromas could also develop.

The producers of Neszmély have always taken advantage of the high acidity and richness of the wines.

— In the Middle Ages, there was a lively wine trade, because Neszmély wines were able to withstand long periods of transport by water (the Danube) and over land.

— When a long ageing period was in public demand, wines such as Neszmélyi Olaszrizling or Etei Ezerjó were marketed after a long period of ageing in wooden barrels, after special age-related aromas had developed.

— In the areas with favourable soil conditions and location, sweet wines were made from late-ripening, raisined grapes, such as the Ászári Szürkebarát.

— The distinct acidic backbone also makes it possible to produce a fresh and lively Neszmély wine with an intense aroma reflecting the distinct characteristics of each variety. Today, in line with market demand, it is mainly such Neszmély wines that are sold.

In recognition of Neszmély wines, a winemaker from the region won the Winemaker of the Year award in the United Kingdom in 1997 and in Hungary in 1999. Neszmély wineries were awarded the title ‘Winery of the Year’ in 2004 and 2009.

9. Essential further conditions (packaging, labelling, other requirements)

Rules on indications (1)

Legal framework:

By the organisation which manages the PDO/PGI, where laid down by Member States

Type of further condition:

Additional provisions relating to labelling

Description of the condition:

a) For Neszmély II/1 wines indicating the municipality name on the label, at least 85 % of the grapes must originate from vineyards classified in class I or II in that municipality, and up to 15 % of the processed grapes may originate from other parts of the Neszmély demarcated production area.

b) For wines indicating the slope name, 100 % of the processed grapes must originate from that slope.

c) There are no mandatory requirements for labels other than those laid down by the legislation in force and in point (h) below.

d) The following traditional expressions, other restricted expressions or other expressions referring to the method of preparation may be used to describe each type of wine:

White wine: ‘késői szüretelésű bor’ [late-harvest wine], ‘muzeális bor’ [historical wine], ‘primőr’ [primeur] or ‘újbor’ [new wine], ‘virgin vintage’ or ‘első szüretelésű bor’ [first-harvest wine], ‘hordóban erjesztett bor’ [barrel-fermented wine], ‘hordóban érlelt bor’ [barrel-aged wine], ‘barrique bor’ [barrique wine], ‘töppedt szőlőből készült bor’ [wine made from raisined grapes], ‘prémium bor’ [premium wine], ‘Cuvée’ or ‘Küvé’

Rosé wine: ‘Cuvée’ or ‘Küvé’

Red wine: ‘muzeális bor’ [historical wine], ‘virgin vintage’ or ‘első szüretelésű bor’ [first-harvest wine], ‘hordóban erjesztett bor’ [barrel-fermented wine], ‘hordóban érlelt bor’ [barrel-aged wine], ‘barrique bor’ [barrique wine], ‘prémium bor’ [premium wine], ‘Cuvée’ or ‘Küvé’

Rules on indications (2)

Legal framework:

By the organisation which manages the PDO/PGI, where laid down by Member States

Type of further condition:

Additional provisions relating to labelling

Description of the condition:

Names of municipalities that may be indicated:

Municipalities located in Komárom-Esztergom County:

Ászár, Baj, Bajót, Bana, Bársonyos, Bokod, Császár, Csép, Dunaalmás, Dunaszentmiklós, Esztergom, Ete, Kerékteleki, Kesztölc, Kisbér, Kocs, Lábatlan, Mocsa, Mogyorósbánya, Nagyigmánd, Neszmély, Nyergesújfalu, Süttő, Szomód, Tata, Tát, Tokod, Vérteskethely, Vértesszőlős

Only wines produced exclusively from grapes grown within the administrative boundaries of a municipality may be marketed under the name of that municipality.

Names of slopes that may be indicated:

Dunaszentmiklós: Bokrosi-dűlő

Neszmély: Előharaszt, Gőte-oldal, Határszél, Korma föle, Madari-hát, Meleges-hegy, Pap-hegy, Páskom, Pörösök, Sós-hegy, Ürge-hegy, Várhegy

Szomód: Borsos-diós, Kalács-hegy

Tata: Grébics-hegy, Látó-hegy, Látó-hegy föle

Link to the product specification

https://boraszat.kormany.hu/neszmely

(1) OJ L 9, 11.1.2019, p. 2.