EN Official Journal of the European Union C 437/9

Publication of an amendment application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2015/C 437/10)

This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1).

APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF NON-MINOR AMENDMENTS TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION FOR A PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN OR PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION

Application for approval of amendments in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012

‘SAUCISSON DE L'ARDECHE’

EU No: FR-PGI-0105-01303 — 26.1.2015

PDO ( ) PGI ( X )

1. Applicant group and legitimate interest

Name of the group: Association de Défense et de Promotion des Produits de Charcuterie de l'Ardèche

Address:

Chambre de Commerce et de l'Industrie Parc des Platanes 07104 Annonay FRANCE

Tel. +33 475692727

Email: ellypteam@gmail.com

This group is an association governed by the Law of 1 July 1901 and the Decree of 16 August 1901, and it comprises all the meat curers producing ‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’.

2. Member State or Third Country

France

3. Heading(s) in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)

— ☐ Product name — ☒ Product description — ☒ Geographical area — ☐ Proof of origin — ☒ Production method — ☐ Link — ☒ Labelling — ☒ Other [National requirements — class of products — inspection body]

4. Type of amendment(s)

— ☒ Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI which cannot be regarded as minor within the meaning of the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012. — ☐ Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI for which a Single Document (or equivalent) has not been published and which cannot be regarded as minor within the meaning of the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

5. Amendment(s)

5.1. Description of product

Errors have been found in the distinction between two sub-categories of ‘petit chaudin’, though they do not affect the general description of the product.

The following amendments have been made in Chapter IV.2.4 (now 2.2.4) of the product specification:

Name of product Casing Chopping: minimum grain size Weight of the dry sausage Diameter of casing Length of casing Minimum heat treatment period Minimum drying period (mm) (g) (mm) (cm) (hours) (days) ‘Petit chaudin’ Large intestine 6 200 to 350 250 45 to 55 25 to 35 36 18 250 350 to 600 55 to 70 30 to 40 36 21 ‘Chaudin’ 6 600 to 2 000 70 to 90 > 40 36 30 ‘Gros chaudin’ 8 > 2 000 > 75 > 40 60 40

The weight varies according to the diameter of the casing. For the diameters set out in the product specification, the limit between the first two sub-categories of ‘petit chaudin’ should be set at 250 g instead of 350 g.

The minimum length of 25 cm applies to both of the corrected weight ranges, as it is a common reference standard for all casing makers. The distinction between the two sub-categories of ‘petit chaudin’ is irrelevant here. A single length of casing of 25 to 40 cm must therefore be used in order to remain within the standards applied.

5.2. Geographical area

The spelling of a number of municipalities has been corrected in accordance with the valid nomenclature of the French National Institute of Statistics and Economic Studies (INSEE).

5.3. Method of production

5.3.1. Raw materials

In Chapter VII.1 (now 5.1) of the product specification, amendments have been made to the characteristics of the pigs from which the raw material is obtained, specifically as regards the age of the pigs, the warm carcass weight and the muscle ratio:

— Age of the pigs

The age of the pigs at slaughter (minimum age of 172 days for standard-weight pigs and average age of 182 days for heavy-weight pigs) has been deleted, given that these criteria are no longer in line with current practice in the pig sector.

As a result of advances in breeding and nutrition, pigs are now slaughtered at a younger age but with a carcass weight that is often heavier than in the past. The average weight of carcasses has increased by 5 kg in 10 years.

Nowadays the quality of the meat is no longer assessed in relation to the age of the animal. Animals with the same carcass quality may vary in age by 10 days or more, and therefore this value is no longer monitored closely in the certification process.

— Warm carcass weight

The carcass weight range for standard-weight pigs has been increased by 3 kg and the carcass weight of heavy-weight pigs has been increased to 92 kg (strictly above) instead of 90 (equal to or above).

The increase of the weight range of the carcasses of heavy-weight pigs and of the upper weight limit of standard-weight pigs is justified by the advances in breeding and nutrition, which led to an increase of 4 kg in the average weight of pigs between 1997 and 2009. Today, the average weight of a carcass is around 91,5 kg.

Furthermore, according to the method of production of the PGI ‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’, there should be at least 40 % of ‘matured’ meat: either from heavy-weight sows or heavy-weight pigs. The heavier the pig, the more typical the product. The increase in weight is therefore positive.

— Muscle ratio

The concept of ‘muscle ratio’, while relevant for products such as ham because it indicates the fattening of the animal and the characteristics of an anatomical part, is not adequate for a product that has been cut up, as is the case with sausage, where the meat curers mix lean and fatty meat in varying proportions according to the recipe used and the fat content of the finished product. It has therefore been removed from the description of the raw material.

5.3.2. Product manufacturing stages

— pH of the pieces:

The obligation to perform pH measurements has been replaced by visual measurements of the freshness and quality of the pieces.

Indeed, pH measurements are representative only when performed on whole pieces, such as those used to make dried ham. Conversely, the recipe for dry sausage combines various pieces, including lean and fatty meat which have a highly variable pH, depending on the anatomical parts used, the conditions of measurement and the measuring zone.

The freshness of the meat is monitored at each delivery, but this is done visually, as poor-quality meat can be identified quickly owing to its abnormal colour (meat that is light-coloured or very dark). The flaws to be avoided have been listed in detail in the product specification.

— Authorised amount of saltpetre:

The reference to the maximum residual amount allowed in the finished product has been deleted given that it complies with the general rules in force (Directive 2006/52/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 5 July 2006).

— Pre-salting:

The chapter on the pre-salting stage has been amended.

Pre-salting facilitates the solubilisation of proteins and ensures the good cohesion of fatty and lean meat as well as a supple, pleasant, melt-in-the mouth texture. Different processes make it possible to obtain these effects in meat and in the properties of ‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’. However, in Chapter VII.2.3 of the product specification, the initial description of this stage was limited and did not cover all the traditional practices resulting in these effects.

The description of this stage has therefore been amended to allow pre-salting to be carried out before or after chopping, applying the same technical standards and storage conditions in order to ensure the same results: pre-salting must be carried out on the processing site, with the same amount of NaCl and a minimum duration of 24 hours at a temperature below 4 °C.

The beginning of the next chapter, which concerns slicing, has also been amended to take account of these changes.

— Life cycle:

The life cycle has been amended and simplified in order to take into account the clarifications provided at the pre-salting stage.

5.4. Labelling

In Chapter X (now 8) of the product specification, the obligation to display the words ‘Indication Géographique Protégée’ (‘Protected Geographical Indication’) has been deleted, as these words are already contained in the European Union's PGI logo that must be included on the labelling.

The term ‘PGI logo’ has been replaced by the term ‘the European Union's PGI logo’ so as to use the correct term.

5.5. National requirements

In Chapter XI of the product specification, the table of the main items to be checked has been updated to take into account the changes outlined above.

5.6. Other

The heading of the product class has been corrected in line with the terminology used in Annex XI to Implementing Regulation (EU) No 668/2014.

The chapter on references to the inspection body has been amended.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘SAUCISSON DE L'ARDÈCHE’

EU No: FR-PGI-0105-01303 — 26.1.2015

PDO ( ) PGI ( X )

1. Name(s)

‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’

2. Member State or Third Country

France

3. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1. Type of product

Class 1.2 Meat products (cooked, salted, smoked, etc.)

3.2. Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

General description

‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’ is a dried sausage made using fresh pork meat and hard pork fat, which are chopped and placed in a natural pork casing. It is heat-treated and then dried according to a specific age-old recipe, combining matured meat with ‘standard-weight pig’ meat.

‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’ comes in the form of various products (‘saucisse sèche’, ‘chaudin’, ‘rosette’, ‘jésus’) using a single recipe and casings taken from all parts of the pig's intestine (small intestine, cæcum, upper and dorsal lumbar colon, rectum and anal canal). These casings often give their name to the particular type of sausage.

The shape and dimensions of these products vary according to the type and size of the natural casing used, the size of the meat grain and the minimum drying period.

Different forms of ‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’

‘Saucisse sèche’

The casing used is taken from the pig's small intestine and is 30 mm or more in diameter. The length of the casing depends on whether the dry sausage is straight or curved or comes in several rotations (hanging or coiled). The casing forms a natural, bound wrapping.

‘Petit chaudin’

The casing used is taken from the colon or from the rectum, and it is closed at both ends using twine. This natural wrapping may be tied by hand.

‘Chaudin’

This sausage is long and may be narrow or more or less wide depending on the diameter of the casing (large intestine). It has a slightly higher salt content. This natural wrapping is bound using twine and may be tied by hand or placed in a net.

‘Gros chaudin’

The casing used is taken from the large intestine, defatted naturally, peeled and in some cases trimmed. Strips of large intestine may be used. It is hung up or laid out flat to dry, which alters its appearance. Its flavour is slightly acidic as a result of having matured over a long period.

‘Rosette’

This sausage bears the name of its casing, which is truncated and the broad tip of which contains the ‘rosette’ (anus). The thickness of the sausage slows down the drying process considerably, lending it a distinctive taste on account of the different rate at which it matures.

‘Jésus’

It is a bulbous sausage, ovoid-shaped like its casing, the cæcum. This large, dry sausage — ‘swaddled’ and ‘watched over’ like a child appearing at the family table at the exact time of year when the baby Jesus, God of the Christians, was born — is traditionally known as ‘Jésus’. Its flavour is slightly acidic as a result of having matured over a long period owing to the thickness of the casing.

Summary table

The minimum drying (or ageing) period is fixed according to the product's weight and, above all, the diameter and texture of the casing which, for the same weight, determine how long it takes for the product to dry.

The characteristics of each product are set out in the table below:

Name of product Casing Chopping: minimum dimension of the grain Weight of the dry sausage Diameter of casing Length of casing Minimum heat treatment period Minimum drying period (mm) (g) (mm) (cm) (hours) (days) ‘Saucisse sèche’ Small intestine 6 200 to 500 30 to 45 — 36 17 > 500 > 45 — 36 21 ‘Petit chaudin’ Large intestine 6 200 to 250 45 to 55 25 to 40 36 18 250 to 600 55 to 70 36 21 ‘Chaudin’ 6 600 to 2 000 70 to 90 > 40 36 30 ‘Gros chaudin’ 8 > 2 000 > 75 > 40 60 40 ‘Jésus’ Cæcum 8 400 to 1 500 — 20 to 35 36 32 > 1 500 — > 35 60 63 ‘Rosette’ Anal canal 8 > 1 000 — > 40 60 56

Presentation of the product

The product in its various forms may be marketed either whole (bare or ringed, in a net or in a bag) with its natural mould or dusted, or sliced in the case of sausages weighing more than 1,2 kg.

Organoleptic characteristics

When the sausage is sliced it is a reddish, slightly dark colour, revealing fat, white spots and some spices. The separation between fat and lean is all the more marked if the sausage has been coarsely chopped.

The slightly salty and spicy flavours of the mix combine with the pronounced meaty taste, with a slightly acidic flavour if the casing is thick, since this slows down the rate at which the product matures.

These flavours are influenced by the pre-salting of the meat, which guarantees a perfect link between the lean and the fat and allows the product to be sliced smoothly, giving it a pleasant, melt-in-the-mouth texture.

Physico-chemical properties

The properties of the sausage once it is ready to be marketed are those laid down for superior dry sausages. Also, the aw of the dry product must not exceed 0,91.

3.3. Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The raw materials (lean and fat) that make up ‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’ originate exclusively from (standard- or heavy-weight) pigs and from sow meat.

All the meat is fresh and of EU origin (animals born, reared and slaughtered in the European Union).

The mature meat comes from heavy-weight pigs and/or sows and may account for a maximum of 60 %. Meat from standard-weight pigs may also account for a maximum of 60 %.

Pieces that appear flawed may not exceed 5 % of all the pieces used.

Selection of the pig meat (standard-weight pigs and heavy-weight pigs):

A minimum of 60 % of the pigs' feed must consist of cereals and cereal-based products;

It is forbidden to use zootechnical additives containing growth factor throughout the animal's life.

Genetics: the pigs are the descendants of pigs from pig selection bodies or certified artificial insemination centres. In other cases, the ratio of standard-weight pigs that are sensitive to halothane is < 3 % and the animals are unaffected by the RN-allele (no occurrences).

The carcasses must comply with the minimum criteria below:

— for standard-weight pigs: warm carcass weight at slaughter of between 75 and 92 kg

— for heavy-weight pigs: warm carcass weight of above 92 kg

Selection of the sow meat

The meat must be firm, mature and coloured, which matches the requirement to use prime cuts only: ham, shoulder, loin, backfat and belly. Oozing meat or meat with a strong red colour and fat which is not white or firm are discarded.

Finally, there must be a minimum of two weeks between the end of weaning and shipment.

3.4. Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

All of the production steps, from the pre-salting of the meat to the ageing of the sausages (pre-salting, resting, chopping, stuffing, heat treatment, ageing/drying).

3.5. Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

—

3.6. Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

Name: ‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’ with the addition of the corresponding form of the product, if any: ‘saucisse sèche’, ‘petit chaudin’, ‘chaudin’, ‘gros chaudin’, ‘rosette’ or ‘jésus’, to which the producer can add its own name.

The European Union's PGI logo.

4. Concise definition of the geographical area

The geographical area is located in south-east France. It extends over 326 municipalities of the department of Ardèche in the Rhône-Alpes region.

The geographical area includes the entire department of Ardèche, except for the following municipalities: Orgnac-l'Aven, Labastide-de-Virac, Vagnas, Salavas, Sampzon, Grospierres, Bessas, Beaulieu, Saint-André-de-Cruzières, Saint-Sauveur-de-Cruzières, Berrias-et-Casteljau, Banne and Saint-Paul-le-Jeune.

The geographical area includes only those municipalities with an age-old and continuing tradition of sausage-making. It corresponds to the old Vivarais province, which became the department of Ardèche in 1790. Since then, the borders of the department of Ardèche have shifted on several occasions.

5. Link with the geographical area

Specificity of the geographical area

The geographical area, which corresponds to the old Vivarais province, is the cradle of the meat-curing traditions, customs and know-how inherited by the Ardèche.

The geographical area is composed of two types of environment. The ‘mountains’, with an average altitude of between 500 and 1 700 m, have a harsh climate. In the northern part, heavy snowfall is not uncommon up to the end of April, while the climate becomes more temperate further south. The entire ‘mountainous’ region is swept by cold winds. On the ‘plateau, hills and plains’, the altitude ranges from 400 m to the plains. The temperate climate becomes Mediterranean towards the far south.

In these two environments, practices for drying sausage became established in connection with the ritual slaughters that took place in the early winter.

For a long time, this region was cut off and difficult to reach. It was this very isolation that allowed traditions involving the pig (‘the providential animal’), such as ritual slaughters by peasants at the start of winter, markets, local gastronomy and festivals, to become firmly rooted in local culture and to endure to this day.

The techniques for drying and preserving sausages, established by local peasants, were later passed down by meat curers. Today, the geographical area is still characterised by a strong presence of small and medium-sized meat-curing enterprises that have often been in business for more than a hundred years and have passed on their know-how from one generation to the next in an area where the geographical and climatic conditions were favourable for them.

‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’ in its various forms is derived from a single recipe.

The shape and size of the various types of sausage are linked to the casings used from different parts of the pig's intestine, which often give their name to the products obtained. The size of the grain and the minimum drying period vary according to the diameter of the sausage and the texture of the casing.

Specificity of the product

The specific nature of ‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’ is based on the age-old reputation of this product and on the specific know-how that guarantees the best expression of the product's organoleptic qualities.

In the mouth, the slightly salty and spicy flavours of the mix combine with a strong meaty taste. If the casing is thick and fatty, it slows down the maturation of the product and lends it a slightly acidic flavour.

These flavours are complemented by a supple, pleasant, melt-in-the-mouth texture.

Causal link

The quality and reputation of ‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’ are closely linked to the region: it was in this isolated region with its harsh climate that the tradition of producing ‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’, a way to preserve pork, was developed. Until the early 20th century the pig was the sole source of meat for local families. Traditionally, the pig was slaughtered at Christmas, and the resulting meat and cured meat products would last throughout the winter.

This age-old know-how can be still found today in the choice of the meat, the use of casings from all parts of the pig's intestine, the use of saltpetre as the sole additive, pre-salting, etc.

The following common practices combine to give ‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’ its organoleptic properties:

— The choice of fresh and selected meat only (mixture of matured meat and meat from standard-weight pigs).

— The pre-salting of the meat, which enables the proteins to be perfectly dissolved and the grains to stick together properly and which helps to give the sausages a smooth texture.

— The use of natural casings from all parts of the pig's intestine. Their elasticity facilitates the filling process and the adhesion of the meat and prevents air pockets from forming. Their permeability allows slow maturation until the product finally becomes stable. Their nature and thickness contribute to the flavour of the dry sausage.

— Maturing is adapted to the different pieces.

It is at the heart of this region rich in history, tradition and know-how that the reputation of ‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’ was established.

Baptised a ‘gourmet's paradise’ by Curnonsky (who also described the village of Saint-Agrève as a ‘Mecca of charcuterie’), the Ardèche enjoys a strong tradition of pig-rearing and dry-charcuterie making dating back to the 16th century.

Numerous accounts bear witness to this, including those of Olivier de Serres, known as the father of French agriculture (16th century) and of Charles Forot, a writer and poet from Ardèche (19th century).

Charles Albin Mazon paid tribute to the sausage and its origins in his 1890 work ‘Voyage fantaisiste et sérieux à travers l'Ardèche’ and marvelled at the ‘ceilings lined with bacon, hock, trotters and strings of sausages’.

In the words of Michel Carlat, ‘the ritual slaughter is a festive event, […] In the kitchen, hams and sausages are hung under the mantelpiece. They dry and smoke for many weeks’. On Christmas Eve, according to Pierre Charrie, ‘… we feasted on a “jésus”, a large sausage […] kept for the occasion’.

Trading started in the 17th century. Markets expanded in particular at the beginning of the 20th century and, according to Guy Dürrenmatt, helped make ‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’ well-known.

With the growth of food tourism in the early 20th century, ‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’ was recognised as a local product.

It is mentioned in the inventory of France's culinary heritage, ‘L'inventaire du patrimoine culinaire de la France’, edited in 1995.

‘Voyage gourmand en Rhône-Alpes’ (published by Glénat in 2006) devoted an entire chapter to the Ardèche and its range of fine charcuterie, including ‘rosette’, ‘saucisse’ and ‘chaudin’.

In the words of the authors of ‘Le Génie de l'Ardèche’ (2007): ‘on the Ardèche plateau — swept by a wind that lends itself to sausage-drying — numerous pork butchers carry on centuries-old know-how by offering quality local products’.

‘Saucisson de l'Ardèche’ is known and recognised throughout France (article by Gault Millau in 1986, and several medals awarded at the ‘Concours général agricole’ (general agricultural fair) in Paris in 2008 and 2009) and in Europe (medals awarded by the German Agricultural Society (DLG)).

Reference to publication of the specification

(the second subparagraph of Article 6(1) of the Regulation)

https://www.inao.gouv.fr/fichier/CDC-IGP-SaucissonArdeche.pdf

(1) OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.