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COM(76)419
Vol.1976/0126

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COMMISSION OFTHEEUROPEAN COMMUNITIES
COM(76)419 final .
/
Brussels ,28July 1976 .
\ ■ ',
1 /
PROPOSAL FOR ACOUNCIL DECISION
adopting atechnological
research programme for
/
the footwear sector
X
(Article 235oftheEECTreaty )
(submitted totheCouncil bytheCommission )
/
I
! j
/
COM(76)419final .

PROPOSAL FOR ACOUNCIL DECISION
adopting atechnological research programme for
the footwear sector
THECOUNCIL OFTHEEUROPEAN COMMUNITIES ,
*
Having regard totheTreaty establishing theEuropean Economic Community ,
and inparticular Article 235thereof ,
Having regard totheProposal from theCommission ,
Having regard totheOpinion oftheEuropean Parliament ,
•Having regard totheOpinion oftheEconomic andSocial Committee ,
Whereas on14January 1974 theCouncil adopted aResolution onthe
coordination ofnational policies andthedefinition ofprojects of
interest totheCommunity inthefield ofscience andtechnology }
Whereas Article 2oftheTreaty provides that ,oneoftheCommunity 's
tasks istopromote throughout theCommunity aharmonious development of
economic activities andacontinuous andbalanced expansion ?
Whereas thetechnological improvements infootwear manufacture req-uired
oneconomic and social grounds ,which contibute the implementation of
the said objectives oftheTreaty ,necessitate theimplementation
ofspecif io,large-scale research projects designed topromote areduction
inmanufacturing costs ,themore efficient useofravmaterials andenergy ,
greater flexibility ofproduction tomeet consumers *wishes andrequire­
ments andbetter psychological andphysiologioe.1 workirg condi ticns in
manufacturing processes !

whereas collective research plays aonimportant role inthetechnical
development ofthefootwear sector asthis branch ofindustry consists
mainly ofsmall andtoedium-sized enterprises ,which cannot carry out
their ownresearch orwhose ownresearch isonaninadequate scale }
Whereas ,!"because ofthelimited possibilities inthefield offootv»®ar
Research onanational scale thefootwear sector and itsresearch
organizations have produced acolleotive research programme forthe
Community comprising three research projects andinvolving atotal
outlay of1355000units ofaccount }whereas twoofthese projects
involving anoutlay of505000units ofaccount will "beinitiated
immediately }whereas thefootwear sector and itsresearch organizations
will launch thethird project involving anoutlay of85O000units of
account only iftheresults obtained from thefirst twoprojects are
positive }
Whereas theexpenditure to "beborne bythefootwear sector and its
organizations fortheimplementation ofthefirst twoprojects ofthe
collective programme isgreater thajn the sumallocated fortheexecution
oftheCommunity programme }whereas thelatter does not include the
third project }
Whereas aCommunity research programme intended toform part ofthe
above-mentioned collective programme andhence tofacilitate its
execution will represent apowerful integrating factor iforthefootwear
sector ,andwill also allow anincrease inthetechnological level and
competitiveness oftheCommunity industry }
Whereas thecollective research programme istheprod actofthe
cooperation ofthefootwear research organizations theCommunity whioh
has lasted forover tenyears andconsequently off'isaguarantee ofefficient
and successful implementation }
Whereas theprogramme which istheobject cfthis Decision isneeded to
attain theabove-mentioned objectives oftheTreaty inregard tothe
functioning ofthe common market }

WnereastheTreatydidnotmakeprovision forthepowersrequired
forthispurpose ,
HASDECIDED ASFOLLOWS :
Article 1
AEuropean Economic Community research programme inthefootw *sector,
assetoutintheAnnextothisDecision ,isherebyadoptedfo-'aperiod
offouryears*"beginning on1January1977*
Article 2
Thefinancial contribution bytheCommunity totheprogramme isestablished
bythebudgetprocedure .Itisestimated at235*000 U.C.,theu.c.is
definedintheFinancial Regulation ontheestablishment andimplementation
oftheBudgetoftheEuropean Communities andontheresponsability of
authorizing officers andaccounting offioers .
Article 3
TheCommission shallimplement theprografinieby meansofcontracts .
Article 4
CouncilRegulation (EEC)Fo.2380/74of17September 1974adopting
provisions forthedissemination ofinformation relating toresearch
programmes fortheEuropean Economic Community shallapplytoinformation
andinventions ,whetherpatentable ornot,resulting fromtheimplement­
ationoftheprogramme .
Doneat
FortheCouncil
ThePresident

-1-
Collective "technological research programme forthefootwear seotor
Anamountof235000u.a.isto."beallocated fortheimple­
mentation oftheprogramme whichbreaksdownintothefollowing two
projects :
Research pro.jectItRational useofmaterials fortippers
Principal objectives t
Savingofrawmaterials ;moreflexible production wi+b.respectto
consumer requirements ;improvement ofplacesofwork;creationcf
thetechnological basisfordeveloping newmachines andcontrolsystems *
Programme
Analysis ofthematerials utilization factorsachieved withcurrent
techniques ,usinginformation provided byarepresentative samp1.oof
thirtyfirmsonmaterials utilization achieved duringrecentyears,
depending onthetechnique andmaterial used,ardshapaandtypeof
footwear.Theywillalsostudytheirmethodswithref?re'.wr »to<
ormorestandard footwear designs.
Onthebasisoftheresults,development ofsystemsforoptix"'wing
materials utilization ,usingelectronio beamscanning nnddatapro­
cessing.
Researchpro.jectII:Rationalization ofuppermaking
Principal objectives
Adaptation ofthemethodofproducing upperstotherestoftheshoe
manufacturing process,inordertoincreaseproductivity ,redicsore–
duotionoostsandimproveworkingconditions .
Creationofthedesignbasisfornew,numerically coatoll^dsr?o!ii.v&
tools.

Programme
Studyofproduction processes employed forthreetypesofshoe-
requiring different methods-formen,womenandchildren ,onthe
basisof120firms 8experience .Thisstudywillconcerntheprincipal
economiaandergonomic production parameters ,e.g.materials ,tools
anddurationofoperations ,andwillincludeananalysisofeachof
theeighteen stagesofproduction sothattheymaybeformedintomore
satisfactory groupsofintegrated activities .
Collection andpreparation forcomputer processing ofthedatanecessa^
ryforrramerieil controlanddesigndatafornewmachinetools.

COMMISSION
OPTHE
EUROPEAN COMMUNITIES
Directorate General
for Industrial and
Technological Affairs
Description ofand "background toa
Proposal foraCouncil Decision
adopting atechnological research
programme forthefootwear sector
(Article 235oftheEECTreaty )

Explanatory memorandum arid introduction
The technological research programme proposed inthis Note is
designed tohelp toadapt production engineering inthefootwear industry
toexisting technical possibilities ,themore exacting consumer require­
ments and inparticular the facts ofinternational competition .
Anumber ofthe characteristic features ofthe sector and themain aspects
ofeconomic and industrial policy militating infavour ofthe research
programme areoutlined inAnnex I.This makes itclear that theindustry
although satisfying basic human needs ,hasnevertheless foravariety of
reasons got itself into very serious economic difficulties .TheCommunity
now has todecide whether itwill ensure the future continuation ofa
footwear *industry that atpresent still hasconsiderable dynamic drive
and ahigh technical standard ,viewed against the international background ,
orwhether itwill accept thefact that this industry will gradually
disappear from theCommunity and shift toother countries andcontinents .
The loss ofthefootwear industry would bring initswake anumber of
significant supply ,trade ,social andregional problems sothat looking
atthings rationally theCommunity hasnoother course open toitbut to
tryandmaintain thevitality ofitsfootwear industry .
AsAnnex Ialso shows ,thepresent difficulties inthefootwear industry
canbeovercome only ifthe sector introduces radical innovations inits
production techniques ,thefoundations forwhich arelaid bytechnological
research ofthe type covered bythis programme .Building onthe results
ofthis research ,itwill then bepossible todevelop theproduction plant
andmethods required today byanefficient andcompetitive footwear industry
inahighly developed industrial continent .
The shoe research ,asfarastheproblems treated areofinterest forthe
whole branch ,isexecuted mostly ascollective research .This isbecause
theshoe industry contains alarge number ofsmall andmedium-sized firms
which are inaposition tocarry outvery little ,ifany ,research oftheir
own .Collective research thus hasasignificant role toplay inthe .techni­
caldevelopment ofthefootwear industry *

AsAnnex IIshows ,there arefive joint industrial footwear research
establishments intheCommunity ,together employing about 400people .
Apart from thefaot that four Member States have nojoint facilities
forfootwear research ,national research capacity issosmall that itisimpo
sible even forallthe every day footwear research requirements tobemet on
anational basis .Forthese reasons thefive Community establishments
have been cooperating with each other forthepast tenyears byexchan­
ging experience onaregular basis andcoordinating various tasks amongst
themselves .Thus theCommunity already hasanexperienced footwear re­
search capacity that hasbecome accustomed tocooperation over theyears .
This made itpossible todraft theproposed research programme which
will help theindustry tomake theradical technological changes in
footwear manufacturing needed today –aprogramme that isofascope
beyond thereach ofanindividual establishment orcountry .
Even ifnational funds andfacilities were adequate tocarry outthe
necessary research programme ,itwould bepointless todraw upnational
programmes because -quite apart from senseless duplication ofeffort -
thenecessary technological changes inthefootwear industry arenota
local but aEuropean problem andforeconomic reasons theresearch re­
sults cannot stimulate economically significant innovation unless they
arerepresentative forthewhole oftheEuropean Community andcanbe
put topractical effect over itslength andbreath .
Even though avery useful organizational structure isalready inexistence
asastarting point fortheprogramme ,thedifficulties involved inits
execution should notbelost tosight .
Theprogramme ,which inscientific content andscope isfarbeyond any­
thing tackled previously ,requires theindividual establishment toshift
theemphasis oftheir activities ,toreorganize their ei&ff ,toinvest
inequipment andtocooperate widely ,toanextent that canhardly be
justified from thenational aspect butonly bytheinterest ofthepro­
ject totheCommunity .Consequently itisnoeasy matter toobtain the
necessary collective support ofalltheindustrial forces ineach country
fortheimplementation ofakprogramme involving substantial changes in
theestablishments' present activities *This problem isfarther complicated

-3-
bythefactthattheindustryismadeupoffirmsdiffering greatlyin
sizeandtechnioal sophistication andtheprogramme isnotdesigned simi>-
lytoimproveexisting methods "butrathertodevelopfundamentally new
technologies whichwillprobably involveeveryfirminconsiderable in­
vestment onnewplant.
TheCommission isawarethatthispioneering collective research centurs
couldnotoometofruitionearlyenoughwithout somastimulus froraan
outsideintegrating factor.Ittherefore intendstoplayanactiv ,->art
inpromoting andcoordinating theproposed technological research pro­
gramme,whichisdesigned tobeatechnological turningpoint.Italso
takestheviewthatitismoresensible andmoreeconoroio tohelpthe
industry tomaketheneoessary technioal adaptation ingoodtimerather
than(ataverymuohhighercosttothepubliopurse)tohavetoprovide
aidinthefuturetinderitssooialorregional policybecauseanindu­
stryisnolongercompetitive .
Contentoftherssearch programme
Itisdesigned asacollective research programme fortheentire Commu­
nityfootwear industry ,represented bytheEuropean Footwear Confederal
tion(CEC)whichembracesalmostthewholesector*^.Therelevantorga­
nizations willbefullyresponsible tobothindustry andconsuraer ?.for
•formulating andimplementing theprogramme andforapplyingthsr®sult8,
underthesupervision oftheCommission .Theywillalsobear ofthe
costofimplementing theprogramme .
Theprogramme comprises threeprojects whichmayappropriately beregar­
dedasoperationally self–contained buthavingcloselyrelatedobleotivea .
Thememberorganizations represent thefollowing percentages of
national outputbyvolume:
100Belgium,Denmark,
98$Germany
95UnitedKingdom(firmsintheHoscendsle ."tsw?j.nly
manufacturing slippersarenotmens!or*)
92$Netherlands
80%Ireland
78%France
70%It&ly(mostofthesmallcraft–"typefirmsarenotmembers)

-4-
Project 1-Rationalized useofmaterials foruppers
Themanufacture ofuppers always involves relatively serious waste of
materials whether leather orsynthetic ,because ofthedifferences in
shapes ofupper andinmethods ofcutting .Inthecase ofleather ,the
irregular shape ofhides andthevariations inquality inevery hide
also contribute towaste .Bythedevelopment offeed systems andmethods
ofcutting outwhich oanbeadjusted with zero response time ,wastage
could behalved .Even a2$improvement inmaterials utilization would
produce annual savings ofabout 13million u.a.intheComimmity .
Project 2-Rationalization ofupper making
Shoe manufacture consists ofmaking upper andsola andjoining the two.
Although sole making andassembly operations have been rationalized ,the
same does notapply totheupper ,amore difficult proposition .There
are18steps varying inextent according tothetype ofshoe ,that have
toberationalized andharmonized both tosimplify theproduction pro­
cess and toinorease jobsatisfaction .
This research work will require quite complex systems analysis which
takes account oftheactual situation inanddiversity oftheEuropean
footwear industry .Collaboration between alarge number offirms scat­
tered throughout theCommunity istherefore essential forthecompletion of
ofthe task .
Iftheresearch were tolead toonly a20^reduotion intheoperations
involved institching ashoe ,theestimated annual saving w^uld be40
million u.a .
Pro.ject 3-Correlation between footwear technology aJ&consumer needs
Thefurther thefootwear industry moves from craft uethods ,themore the
relationship between technology andconsumer needs becomes ascientifio
problem requiring special methods andcomprehensive data foritssolu­
tion .Data collection ,andprocessing forusebythefootwear industry ,
must becomputer-based inview ofthemultiplicity andspeed ofchange
ofthefaotors involved ,Auniform system mast beUBed forpreparing all

-5-
relevant data,e.g.footphysiology ,geometry anddynamics ,thephysi­
cal,chemical andtechnological properties ofthematerials usedand
theenormousvarietyofshapesofshoe,whichinvolves notonlyobjec­
tive,measurable faotorssuchasweight,oomfort,stability orlife,but
alsoaspectsrelating tofashion.
Programme objectives andimplementation
Theprincipal objectives ofthethreeprojects are:
-torationalize production tokeepitcompetitive ;
-toimproveutilization ofrawmaterials andenergy }
-torenderproduction moreflexible withrespecttoconsumer wishes
andneeds;
-toimprovethepsychological andphysiological conditions inherentin
production processes .
Theseobjectives willbeachieved bycollective researchyieldinginfor­
mationandmethodsthatwillenablethemachine-tool andfootwear indus­
trytodevelopandintroduce newequipment andprooesses forfootwear
manufacture.
Bylimiting thesoopeoftheobjectives ,notonlycanpubliofundsLe
usedeconomically andeffectively ,butanincentive isprovided for
v %
market-orientated privateprojects.Thisdivisionoflabourcanbeseen
asfunctional ,balanced andeffective# Furthermore ,whenimplementing
theprogramme ,provision mustbemadeforfirmstocarry6ytcomplemen­
taryprogrammes ,attheirownexpense,butlinkedwiththenon-profit
industrial research ,wherethismightenrichthegeneralprogramma,
subjecttoobservance oftheconditions governing theoolleotive research.
Thisshouldsimplifythetransferoftechnology andgivetheresearch
subjectgreaterbreadth anddepth*

-6-
Proceduresforreglement-ation oftheprogramme
Tormaterial and.operational reasonsthefootwearindustrywillinitially
implement onlythefirsttwoprojects .Whichareexpected totake3–4
years6Itisplannedthatthethird,whichisappreciably bigger,should
"beimplemented later,afterpraotical experience andresultshaveflowed
fromCommunity cooperation onProjects 1and2.
TheCommission willconclude afour-year collective research contract
withtheDECfortheimplementation ofProjects 1and2=Thiswillmake
theCECresponsible forexecution oftheresearch andlaydowntheCom­
mission'sfinancial contribution *ItwillalsogivetheCommission the
righttosupervise theresearch andtheuseoftheresults andtotake
actioninspecific causes.Theresearchitselfwillbecarriedoutin
thenon-profit industrial research establishments ofthefootwear sector#
Toensurethatsufficiently carefulandexpertconsideration isgiven
totheinterests ofthefootwear industry asawholeintheplanning ,
execution aridextension oftheresearch programme ,thecontract holder,
inassociation withtheCommission ,willsetupmanagement andadvisory
bodies.Theseareoutlined inAnnexIII.TheCommission reserves the
righttoparticipate asanobserver inthesecommittees .Council Regu­
lationFo2380/74of17September 1974(OJ255P*l)willgovernthe
dissemination anduseoftheinformation acquired.
Financial aspects
Thetotalcostoftheprogramme isestimated at1355000u-i.including
505000u.a.forprojects 1and2,apportioned asfollows:
12ZI I2Zâ 1212 2£8o Total
Project 1
Project 285000 8000070000
15000010000020000255000
250000
505000u.a.
Thesumof270000u.a.iatobeputupbytheCommunity'sfootwearin-
dufry.ItisproposedthattheCommunity shouldprovide235000u.a.•>

-7-
tobeentered intheCommission 'sanimal "budget .
When thetime comes Project 3»involving expenditure of85O000u«aM
will befinanced infull bythe footwear industxy *
Proposal tothe Council
TheCouncil will berequested toadopt Projects 1and 2ofthis tech­
nological research programme inthefootwear seotor .

ANNEXI
ASSESSMENT FROMTHEINDUSTRIAL POLICY VIEWPOINT
OFTHEFOOTWEAR INDUSTRY ANDOFACOLLECTIVE
TECHNOLOGICAL RESEARCH PROGRAMME
1.Characteristic features of,aridcurrentsituation ,inthefootwear industry
1*1Fbotwear manufacture isaprocessing industry whiohisnormally olassed
underthetraditional orconventional industries *
Theeconomic aspectsoftheCommunity'sfootwear industry can"boout­
linedasfollows :
–itemploys360000persons *Tothisfiguremust "beaddedafurther
150000persons whoseexistence dependstoaverylargeextenton
thefootwear industry *Suchpersonsworkinbranchesofindustry
suchastanning,mechanical engineering ,textiles ,plastios,the
chemical industry retc.j
–thefootwearindustryisconcentrated in15particular geographical
looations ;
-footwear makescallsuponvarious humanqualities ,e*g*creativity ,
artisticability,adaptation tofashion,questforcomfort;
-thefootwear industry hasanannualturnoverof5345millionu*a0
(1974)1
–944millionpairsofshoesaxemanufactured everyyear;thisrepre­
sentsone–thirdoftheworldproduction figuresj
–in1974 "theexportsurplusinthefootwear sectoramounted to557
millionu*a*;
–footwear manufacture requirestheuseofanimalskins,whicharein
plentiful supplyintheCommunity !
–thefootwearindustry hastheadvantage ofnot"beingamajorconsumer
ofenergy0

-2-
1.2 Thefootwear industry grew steadily upto1970 .There followed a
three-year period ofstagnation .Production hasbeen declining since
1973 .
This decline canbeattributed only inpart tothecurrent economic
recession inWestern Europe .Theincrease inproduction costs hashad
afargreater impact ,andhas led toconsiderable difficulties as
regards domestic sales andmore particularly ,exports andhashadan
unfavourable effect onthe investment climate .
Although theCommunity 'sfootwear industry istheworld 'slargest
producer andexporter offootwear ,itsposition isnowbeing threatened
bynewrivals andofficial protective measures recently introduced
(Australia ,Sweden )orapplied for (USA)byvarious countries .Asex­
ports arevery important tothefootwear industry ,adecline inex­
ports would place aheavy burden ontheCommunity 'sindustry .Itis
therefore noexaggeration tostate that theCommunity istoday faced
with adecision :either itmust letthis industry ,which isstill
holding itsground ,migrate toother continents orsee that ahealthy
footwear industry remains inEurope .
2.Reasons formaintaining aEuropean footwear industry
2.1Themaintenance ofemployment currently hastoppriority from thein­
dustrial policy viewpoint .Asthere areseveral regions inwhich the
footwear industry isofvital importance and inwhich there isno
chance ofalternative employment ,itwould becontrary tothesocial
policy forfootwear undertakings tocease operation .Further difficul­
ties inthefootwear industry would lead toadditional public expendi­
ture forreasons ofsocial andregional policy ,whic 1.would place a
substantial burden onthenational andCommunity bvc^ets .Inthelast
twoyears several million u.a.have been spent outoftheSocial and
andRegional Funds todeal with theproblems inthefootwear industry .
Thecurrently outstanding applications also involve stuns ofseveral
million u.a .

-3-
IftheCommunity 'sfootwear industry istoobtain therequisite
rawmaterials ,those materials moist continue tobeprocessed inthe
Community .Inacontinent such asEurope which does nothave large
quantities ofrawmaterials ,itisessential from the econond.c view­
point that what rawmaterials itdoes posses should ,asfaras
possible ,beconsumed onthat continent .Itwould beeconomically
irrational toexport them andpurchase them inprocessed form .Ever ,
thedeveloping countries ,which have little industry ,are endeavou­
ring toprocess anincreasing percentage oftheir rawmaterials
themselves .
Footwear manufacture isgrowing constantly throughout theworld ,
especially inthedeveloping countries .Bytheyear 2000 ,annual
production canbeexpected torise from JOOO million tobetween
6and12000million pairs ofshoes .This growing nedd forfootwear
provides theCommunity with some economic security and ,above all ,
gives thedeveloping countries enough room toexpand inthis indus­
trial sector .
Furthermore ,itistoorisky foracontinent togive upanindustry ,
inwhich growth isguaranteed inthelong term onaccount ofin­
creasing consumption andwhose products constitute abasic require­
ment ofthepopulation .
Asthetechnological development ofacontinent (asopposed toa
small country )depends onthediversity ofitsindustrial activities ,
theloss ofthefootwear industry ,which would befollowed bythat
ofother "conventional "industries ,would jeopardize theCommmity 's
technological development .Itisonly onabroad industrial basis
that advanced technology industries canbebuilt up;these industries
would also have afavourable ,innovative influence onthecorventio -
nalcraft activities .Failure torecognize this interdependence
could endanger thetechnological (andultimately theeconomic )ba«is
oftheCommunity .

-4-
3oMeansofpreserving thefootwear industry
3*1Asindicated above,thepreservation oftheCommunity'sfootwear
industryisnecessary inthepublicinterest ,andparticularly
inthegeneraleconomicinterest.
Inthecaseofsmallandmedium-sized firmsitistheirvery
existence whichisatstake,sothattheyhaveaprivateeconomio
interestinthepreservation oftheindustry.However,asfirms
ofthatsizecannothelpthemselves beoauseoftheirlimited
financial resources ,andasitisdesirable topreserve small
andmedium-sized firmsforvarioussocialreasons,thecollective
privateeconomicinterestofsuchfirmshasalsobecomeapoliti­
calmatter.Furthermore ,thegeographical locationofthefoot­
wearmanufacturing industryisofrelatively littleeconomic
importance toalarge-scale undertaking andislessimportant to
itthantheproduction conditions .Itisunimportant toalarge-
scaleundertaking whetheritsproduction plantisinEuropeor
Singapore ,forexample,solongascheaplabour,rawmaterials
andequipment areavailable onthespot*
Inviewofthepredominantly publicinterestinthematter,a
policyforpreserving thefootwear industry shouldbedeveloped .
3.2Thefollowing aspectswouldhavetobeconsidered whendrawing
uptheguidelines forsuchapolicy:
-Thecurrentdifficulties canbeattributed mainlytoexcessive
production costs.Thereduction ofthosecostsIvystructural
rationalization measuresisacontinuous markrt-induced process
whichis,however,inadequate inthiscase,useventhelarge-
scaleundertakings arebeinghitbyexcessive production costs.
–Although measures toprotectthedomestic footwearindustry
couldhelptemporarily ,theywouldthrowtheworldtradeinto
disarray ,wouldgiverisetocriticism fromtheCommunity's
tradingpartners andoouldnotprovidealong-term solutionto
theproblems whicharetoonlyasmallextenteconomio *

-5-
-Thesaineappliestomaintenance subsidies grantedbythepublic
authorities forsocialorregional reasonstothosefirmsin
thegreatestdifficulties ,quiteapartfromthefactthatthe
fundsrequired wouldexceedthepolitically acceptable level®
–Themostpromising waywouldseemtobetousetheexisting
technological vitality ofthefootwear industry toencourage
theindustry tomakeacollective effortcorresponding tothe
soaleofthetaskoTherequisite technological adjustment
couldtherebybemadeinordertoreduceproduction costs
Suchaction,aimedatmakingradicalchangesinfootwear pre-
ductiontechnology ,couldatthesametimeenableotherrequire­
mentstobemetbytheapplication ofmoderntechnological
methods,suohastheneedforthehumanizing ofworkconditions ,
therationalutilization ofenergy,flexibility ofproduction
totakeintoaccountconsumers *wishes,theharmonious incor­
poration ofproduction technology intothenaturalenvironment ,
etc.
Thesenewtechnological guidelines forthefootwear industry
clearlyrepresent anindustrial taskabovealleThepublicautho­
ritiescanlimitthemselves toproviding incentives forcollective
actionbythefootwear industry ,possibly influencing thento
satisfythepublic'srequirements andassuring thefootwear in­
dustrythatitstechnological effortsareinlinewiththe
Community'sgeneralpolitical objectives •

COMMISSION
OFTHE
EUROPEAN COMMUNITIES
AnnexII
Direotorate-General
forIndustrial andTechnological
Affairs
Generalsurvey
ofthejointindustrial establishments in
thefootwear sectorintheEuropean Community

Contents
1.Introduetion
2.Namesandaddresses offootwear research establishments
3.Administrative structure oftheresearoh establishments
4.Research programmes
5.Staff
6.Expenditures
1.Introduction
IntheMemberStatesoftheEuropean Community ,therearefive
research establishments workingeitherinthefootwear seotoralone
(Germany,UnitedKingdom)oronallsubjectsconcerning theleather
industry,including tanningandfootwear (Belgium,Prance,Netherlands ).
Forthepasttenyearstherehasbeenclosecooperation betweenthese
centres andalsowiththeSwissmaterials testinglaboratory .
Thefiveresearch establishments employatotalstaffof398-5»
ofwhich32aregraduates ,11.5technicians and255assistants .
Annualexpenditure amountsto5*3millionu.a.,halfofwhichis
devotedtoresearch proper.Theotherhalfisspentontechnical
assistance forindustrial companies ,publication ,pilotproduction ,
training andadministration .

?»-
d«.Namesandaddresseeofthefootwearresearcl^eatablishpenis
-Cent:■»*de "{7echerches Techniques ei
goien',IfiquesdesIndustriesduCuir:CP.C Staffs65
27javenusfeui-Ii .-rnriSpaak,B-1070Brussels
T.:(02)522.48.9p
-CertiTes'hai'vueduCuirsCTC Staff*179
loi.,,-.venueJeati-Jaui'ès ,F-69OO7 %~ons
T.»(78)69.50.12-Telex?EURO!.330949F
-Prüf-und_j''orsohunggInstxtirtfürdieSohuh~ -_ St&ff ;.27
her?■te11vnz5FFT
2,Haus–'Sachs–Str*PFinnasens
1=.:(06331)74017
-ghoe,andJtl1io&Txades^A330jr-i&tioaj^S.^TPA Staff?1^2
SairaHouse,Rockingham Road,Kettering
Northants HH169JH
T,:(0536)3151-Telex:34323
-Instituut TcorLederen_5_a_hosngBaT. St^ff *34
55?vanGoothstraat,Maalwiik .
T.t(04160)33255-Telex50502
3.Administrative structure eft!h.eresearch e^tablxsn^^ts
-CKC
Management bodies
-ConseilGénéral v36membres)
18représentants desdiversesfédérations
1représentant delaFédération desEntreprises Belgae(PEB)
4représentants desorganisations detravailleurs
6représentants desFédérations etdesSyndicats
6représentants de1*Institut pour1?Encourage ?sr:;delaRecherche
dans1'Industrie del'Agriculture (IPSIA)
-Comitépermanent (6membres)
lePrésident etleVice-Président duConseil vénérai
3représentants desFédérations
1représentant del'IRSIA

-3-
–ComitéScientifique (4membres)
lePrésident duCentre
2professeurs d'Université
1représentant delaFEB.
Advisory bodies
-ComitéTechnique Tannerie
-ComitéTechnique Chaussure
composés dereprésentants del'industrie .
Executive staff
-Directeur Technique
-Secrétaire GénéralAdministratif .
-CTA
Management bodies
-Conseild'Administration (19membres)
10représentants deschefsd'entreprise
4représentants dupersonnel technique (cadresetouvriers )de
1'interprof ession
5personnalités particulièrement compétentes ,dontunreprésentant
del'Enseignement Technique Supérieur
Assistent enoutreauConseil tunreprésentant duMinistère de
l'Industrie etdelaRecherche etunreprésentant duMinistère des
Finances
-Directeur général
Advisory bodies
-ComitédeProgramme (ilmembres)
1représentant de1'interprofession
6représentants desdiversesprofessions
3représentants duCTC
1représentant del'Université
-Sixcommissions techniques
uneparprofession >PeauBrute,Tannerie ,Mégisserie ,Chauesure ,
Maroquinerie etGanterie .
-PFI
Management bodies
-Mitgliederversammlung (15Mitglieder )
derBürgermeister derStadtPrimasens
1Ministerialrat
13Vertreter derSchuhindustrie .

-Wissenschaftliches Kuratorium (4Mitglieder )
Professoren derTechnischen Hochschulen >Textil,Kautschuk ,
Kunststoffe undPolymeren
-Technischer Beirat(l8Mitglieder )
15Technische Direktoren
1Vertreter destechnischen Verbands fürKlebstoffe
1Vertreter destechnischen Verbands fürKunstleder
Prof.Herfeld .
-SATRA
Management bodies
-SatraCouncil (45persons)
30fromFederation shoefirms
10fromalliedtrades(suppliers andretailers )
2fromunions
3fromrepresentatives bodies(BLMRA,Training Board).
Research programmes
CRC
-Research intonewtechniques forjoiningandtrimming materials
usedinthemanufacture offootwear andotherprocessing industries .
-Research intothepossibility ofmakingleathermoresuitablefor
thesetechniques .
-Automation ofthesetechniques
CTC
-Utilization oftannerywaste
-Pollution control
-Automatic footwear assembly line
-Standardization andnewdesignofthelast
-Studyofmaterials :studyofcomfort
PFI
-Studyofadhesive ageing
-Research intonewmixtures ofelastomer rubbers
-Finishing ofleatherandsynthetic materials nithpolyurethane
-Studyofplant,inparticular asregardsrationalization of
stitohingfürKlebstoffe
fürKunstleder

-5-
fturethecorrect-electionoffootwearaaterialsand
componentsan,theiri»P–ent. ^^
effectiveuseofmanpowerandtosalgua
T^;Se"rofloot-earindnstrye»plcyees.
Topro,!*,moreefficientmanufacturing processes.^
Taimprovepr^-t .protecttheheal/^fthewear^βη^οτ^^οη«Μ–»–1*"■"
"Χ
-\
TJjOjl ^..velomentofmateria^andprocessesm
Hesearch otherleatherendsynthaseaaterials
+heshoeinausxry
processingindustnes .
•««i+petiw?ofmaterials .^andconstructionofth.shoeonthefootcohort.

STAFFBROKEN DOWNBYJOBANDQUALIFICATIONS ,-6-
GRADUATES TECHNICIAM5 ASSISTANTS TOTAL
Research CRC 1.5 0.5!:
I 2
CTG 1'18 56 75
PFI 2 i 1 8 11
SATRA 10 12 22., 44
I TNO
I2I10:.15
15 42.5 69.5i147
iTechnical CRC 1.5•;h0,5 2I
Assistance CTC 1 5' 14 20
PFI 1I■<7.I 8 ι
SATRA 3 17/■'! 15 35
TNO '0,5I .'
l :7 3110,5
5.5
I30,5 |1.39.5 75,5
CRC o#5 0.5
,CTC 6., 15 21
PFI 0,5 1 · •1.5
SATRA 1 7' 5 13
TNO
[■;33
..L._J
»
I1.5
ι13.5■''24'jΓ ι1
I39
Pilot CRC H
Production CTC
*.
PFII "™
SATRA 3 i.12.■ 3 18
TNO
3I12
I3 18
Miscellan-CRCI
~ I! .»•I
!■ri i
1 !
eous CTC 2 3 30 .35 I
PFI 2 '2
.SATRA 3 3'> 6i
l
TNO1'I
I.'1 i
i
5 6, !34 •
ι45
Adminis-CRCi
1 ,1
tration CTC 2' 26 ! 28
PFI 0.5 4 4.51
SATRA 1 5A 30 36
,TNO 0,5 4 4,5
2 7. 65 74
TOTAL 32 111.5-. 255 398,5

EXPENDITURE OFTHEFIVEFOOTWEAR RESEARCH ESTABLISHMENTS -1974
(inu.a._rounded off)
ESTABLISHMENT
NATURECRG
(Belgium )CTC ,
(France ) 1.PFI
(Germany ).SATRA j
(United Kingdom ,i
TNO
[(Netherlands )TOTAL
.RESEARCH72000 1890460 128420 603 5001
304690 - 2999170
"TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE 62000 80600 404 160 144 200 690960
FILOT PRODUCTION148J20■ 1 1 1T–
'148 .320
'PUBLICATIONS313 280 2730 ■44480 360490
MISCELLANEOUS
i -: ,. .. •
I ...288070 19130 53.520 -î 9670
I-• • .•370390 '"■
\ ■:
I-ADMINISTRATION20000 .
I460910 !4098O 122 160
*>·73760 717810
!TOTAi , *: |
1 ; 71540001 : : i
t2952.720
i ■ .271860 Il331760
i576800 5287140
IU.a._igequivalent to;Bfrs .50
FF._._5..5419
DM__3.66
£ "0.416667
.... .PI.3.62W «
*

ANNEXIII
MANAGEMENT OPTHETECHNOLOGICAL RESEARCH PROGRAMME
FORTHEFOOTWEAR SECTOR
(forinformation )
I.CONTRACTOR
European Footwear confederation
President sM.Raufast
Secretary General :M.Mayaert
II.MANAGEMENT OFTHEPROGRAMME
Programme leadertDrA.R.PAYNE(SATRA)
LeaderofProjectIsMr.PILKINGTON (SATRA)
LeaderofProjectII:Mr.SMADJA(CTC)
Industry Researchliaisonofficer tMrs.Jeneriat (CTC)
III.PROGRAMME ADVISORY COUNCIL
Chairman !DrA.R.PAYNE(SATRA)
Members ,delegates ofnational federations :
-Mr.REINHARDT ,G.Hoffmann GmbH
6909Walldorf
Postfach 1270 Tel.06227/1045
-Mr.R.BERGUT,Industrie delaChaussure deFrance
30,avenueGeorgeV,
Paris8e Tel.26l.5i.86
-Mr.L.ROSSI,Calzaturificio F.lliRossi
ViaVenezia ,44
30039Stra(Venezia)
–Mr.H./ANSAMBEEK,o/oFederatie vanNederlandss Schoenfabrikant
Reitseplein 1
Tilburg Tel.013/678000
-Mr.A.T.CLOTHIER ,ClarksLtd.
40HighSt.
STREET.Somerset BA16OYA Tel.Street3131
Members ,delegates fromresearch establishments
-Mr.BEATEN(TNO)
-Mr.LESUISSE (CRC)-Mr.MATTIL (FFl)
-Mr.SMADJA (CTC)
Observers ,delegates fromtheCommission :
notknown
Secretary :Mrs.Jeneriat (CTC)

-2-
IV.SCIENTIFIC ANDTECHNICAL COMMITTEES FORTHEPROJECTS
ProjectIsChairman :Mr.PILKINOTON (SATRA)
Secretariat :Mrs.Jeneriat (CTC)
Research members
Mr.LESUISSE fCRC-TNO)
Mr.MATTIL (PFl)
Mr.SMADJA (CTC)Consumer members
notknown
ProjectII:Chairman :Mr.SMADJA(CTC)
Secretariat :Mrs.Jeneriat (CTC)
Research members
Mr.ALLOWAY (SATRA)
Mr.BAETEN (TNO-CRC)
Mr.MATTIL (PFl)Consumer members
notknown
V.LABORATORIES EXECUTANTS
-CentredeRecherches Techniques etScientifiques
Cuir:CRC
27iavenueP&ul-Henri Spaak,B-1070Brmcelles
-CentreTechnique duCuir:CTC
l8l.avenueJean-Jaurès ,F-69007Lyon
-Prüf-undForschungsinstitut für
dieSchuhherstellung :PFI
2,HansSachsStrasse.D-678Pirmasens
-ShoeandAlliedTradesAssociation :SATRA
SatraHouse,
Rockingham Road,Kettering Northants HN169JH
-Instituut voorLederenSchoenen lTNO
551MrVanCoothstraat ,Waalwi.ikdesIndustries du
Tel.(02)522.48.95
Tel.(78)69.50.12
Telex:EUROL330949F
Tel.(06331)74017
Tel.(0536)3151
Telex:34323
Tel.(04160)33255
Telex:50502

Financial Record
PartI:Intervention appropriations
1.Relevant "budgetheading :Item3721
2.Titleof"budgetheading:Footwear research programme
3.Legalbasis?Article 235 "theEECTreaty
4*Description ,objectives and.justification oftheoperation
4*0Description oftheoperation/personsconcerned
4*0.0Description :Performance ofthreeresearchprojects
incooperation withtheCommunity foot^ar industry.
4.0.1Persons concerned
EECfootwear industry.
4.1Objective oftheoperation
4.1.0Generalobjective :Tofosterresearch andmakeuseof
technological progressinthefootwear sector.
4.1.1Specificobjectives :Torationalize production ,make
betteruseofrawmaterials andenergyandimprove
production conditions .
4*2Justification oftheoperation selected
Collective research organizations willcarryouttheprogramme
whichistobefinancedjointlybytheCommunity andtheindustry .
Theobjectives setarelimited,thuspermitting theeconomical
andefficient useofpublicmoney,andalsoencouraging private
initiatives ,particularly inthofcrmofcomplementary programmes
carriedoutbycertainenterprises attheirownexpense It
shouldbenotedthatthefootwear sectorinEuropeie"b'j'stby
manyproblems .
5»Financial implications oftheoperation
5«0Implications inrespectofexpenditure

1976 1977 1978 1979
Appropriations Requirements Expected commitments
90000 80000 65000
5.1 Method ofcalculation :Plat-rate financial contribution bythe
Community .
6. "Type ofcontrol tobeapplied
6.0 Commission departments will verify theperformance ofthe
research contracts .
6.1)Oncompletion oftheprojects ,theCommission andthe
6«2 )
'industry will examine ,inthelight oftheresults obtained ,
whether research should becontinued and ifsoinwhat form .
Part II:Additional data tobeprovided for anew operation
7.Overall financial implications oftheoperation forthewhole of
its expected duration
7.1 Inrespect ofresources
8.Information regarding staffing
8.0 Staff required
jçjpart-time
8.1 Additional staff :none .
9.Financing theoperation
Appropriations tobeentered infuture ,budgets .7.0Inrespect ofexpenditure
Budget oftheCommunities
Private sector235000
1120 000
Total cost 1355000u.a .