Publication of an application for registration of a name pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2020/C 321/10)

This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘LIPTOVSKÉ DROBY’

EU No: PGI-SK-02370 – 31.10.2017

PDO ( ) PGI (X)

1. Name

‘Liptovské droby’

2. Member State or third country

Slovakia

3. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1. Type of product

Class 1.8. Other products listed in Annex I to the Treaty (spices etc.)

3.2. Description of product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Liptovské droby’ is a unique kind of sausage made using traditional methods. The special characteristic of the product is the potato filling with greaves and spices, contained in casings of natural pig or bovine intestine. ‘Liptovské droby’ is a perishable product.

The product has a circular cross-section and its shape is a curved cylinder. The product measures 30 to 50 mm in diameter, 100 to 250 mm in length, with a weight of 100 to 300 g. Once the product has been stuffed to reach the desired length it is fastened together with a wooden skewer. The casing fits tightly to the filling, which is made of grated potatoes, ground greaves, onion and spices, and has a delicate texture. 1 kg of the product contains potatoes (75 - 85 %), greaves (8 - 10 %), pig fat (5 %) and salt (maximum 1,7 %).

The product has a soft consistency. Its surface is smooth, moderately moist and clean. The surface colour is light grey and the slices are greyish-yellow. The aroma and flavour is that of potatoes and spices.

‘Liptovské droby’ is sold cooked. Immediately before consumption, the product is heat-treated by baking.

3.3. Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

Raw materials and ingredients:

— potatoes

— pork back fat (fresh or frozen)

— pig fat

— onions

— marjoram

— natural pepper

— salt

— garlic

— pig or bovine intestines

— semolina flour

3.4. Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

The entire production process takes place exclusively within the defined geographical area, in the following stages:

— soaking and washing of the casings 24 hours before use

— washing of the unpeeled potatoes

— peeling, cleaning and washing of the potatoes

— roasting of the onion slices in lard

— the potatoes are finely grated

— the pork back fat is chopped and subsequently fried to obtain greaves

— the greaves, roasted onion and garlic are finely ground

— seasoning

— thorough mixing

— addition of the semolina flour, mixing

— stuffing of the casing

— fastening together of the casing

— slow boiling - the ‘Liptovské droby’ is put into water at a temperature of about 90 °C. It is boiled slowly while stirring constantly until the ‘Liptovské droby’ rises to the surface. Then the product is taken out of water

— refrigeration of the ‘Liptovské droby’

3.5. Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

—

3.6. Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

—

4. Concise definition of the geographical area

The region of Liptov is located in the north of Slovakia, in the south-eastern part of the Žilina self-governing region, in the Liptovská Valley, surrounded by the High Tatra mountain range in the east, by the Western Tatras and the Choč Mountains in the south, and the Greater Fatra range in the west. Geographically speaking, Liptov is a compact area, comprising the districts of Liptovský Mikuláš and Ružomberok.

5. Link with the geographical area

The pedoclimatic conditions in the region, as well as its tradition and history, form the background to the application for the registration of the geographical name ‘Liptovské droby’, inspired by the know-how of the local producers and reputation of the product.

The Liptovská Valley is one of Slovakia’s highest valleys. Its bottom is filled with Tertiary rocks, Central Carpathian Paleogene sediments, as well as more recent silts deposited by the Váh, predominantly gravels and sands. The soil in Liptov is medium hard and the climate is colder. These conditions are not conducive for grain cultivation, but are suitable for potatoes. Potato cultivation in Liptov started in around 1750. A catastrophic crop failure in the years 1771 to 1773 contributed to the popularisation of potato cultivation. The beginning of the nineteenth century saw an upsurge in potato cultivation in the northern parts of Slovakia.

Potatoes subsequently became one of the main components in the population’s diet and earned the nickname ‘our second bread’. The defined geographical area of Liptov has always been an important area for potato cultivation in Slovakia while at the same time being self-sufficient with regard to livestock farming - pigs, in particular. For economic reasons, it was important for the inhabitants of Liptov to make optimum use of offal.

For sustenance, the inhabitants of Liptov used to rely on domestic food sources, potatoes being one of them. Potatoes were eaten on their own as a main meal or with various side dishes.

‘Liptovské droby’ became a popular delicacy, alongside mashed potatoes, dumplings and potato dough cakes. ‘Liptovské droby’ was made of grated raw potatoes, which were easy to grow in Liptov on account of the composition of the soil, climatic conditions and simplicity of cultivation.

The natural and pedoclimatic conditions conducive to potato cultivation and livestock farming shaped the overall appearance and character of the region. In addition to farm work, the local population processed and sold feedstock.

The earliest written reference to the product - an illustration of its history and tradition - is found in the book ‘Slovenská ľudová kuchárka pre každý stôl’ (‘Slovak folk cooking for every table’) dating from 1944, which was compiled by Žela Inovecká and reprinted several times.

In ‘Kuchyňa starých materí z Liptova’ [‘Liptov grandmothers’ home cooking’], a book by the well-known ethnographer Iveta Zuskinová, published in 2013 by Spoločnosť priateľov múzea liptovskej dediny [The Society of Friends of the Liptov Village Museum] based in Liptovský Hrádok, we can read that: ‘In Liptov, ‘‘droby’’ was a popular and characteristic dish, made especially in the autumn when sheep were slaughtered, which meant an abundance of intestines and fat. New potatoes were also dug up at that time...’.

The chapter ‘Čo sa varievalo a jedávalo’ [‘Traditional cooking and food’] in ‘Liptov v ľudovej kultúre’ [‘Liptov in folk culture’], another book by Zuskinová, published by the Society in 2014, contains the following information: ‘Grated raw potatoes were used to make the filling for ‘Liptovské droby’ and to thicken certain cooked dishes; people would cook dumplings as well.’ In the chapter ‘Tradičné jedlá’ (‘Traditional food’) of the same book Zuskinová clarifies that: ‘The word ‘droby’ means potato ‘sausages’.

The name of the product ‘Liptovské droby’ is derived from the name of the Liptov region, which is historically linked to the cultivation and processing of potatoes, which are the basic ingredient of the product. The other part of the name is the word ‘droby’, used in the local dialect to denote edible offal, including intestines. The unique potato filling in a pig or bovine casing (‘droby’= casing) is known in the local dialect as ‘Liptovské droby’. This name has been in constant use in the area since the first half of the nineteenth century.

Replacing the sausage component with potatoes is the distinguishing feature of ‘Liptovské droby’. And even though the shape of the product resembles that of a sausage, the main component of the filling is potatoes, which account for 75 %-85 % of the product’s weight. To make the potato filling, all ingredients are gradually added to the grated raw potatoes; semolina flour is added as a binding agent. How much semolina flour is used depends on the potatoes’ water content; the right amount can only be estimated by experienced makers, so as not to deprive the product of its typical potato aroma. Similarly, experience is required to estimate the cooking time so as to prevent the casing from bursting and the filling from leaking and to chill the product afterwards. ‘Liptovské droby’ is produced only in the defined territory. The production process of ‘Liptovské droby’ cannot be compared to anything else, since on the market there is no other product bearing the designation ‘droby’ or using a geographical name in conjunction with the term ‘droby’. The only permissible conclusion is that ‘Liptovské droby’ is a specific and unique product.

Since in the past livestock was bred mainly for sale or to produce meat products, especially sausages, the poorer part of the population wanted prepare similar-looking foods. The meat content of the sausages was replaced with potatoes - a more readily available filling. Just like sausages, the new product was seasoned with onion, garlic, black pepper, marjoram and salt. The aroma and flavour of meat were replaced by pork back fat and lard. This filling was then put into the casing, which was fastened together with a wooden skewer.

Potatoes from the defined area are most often used. However, the product may also be made of ingredients from other areas if resources run out, in particular during the summer. During the summer tourist season, the demand for regional specialities increases. The consumption of ‘Liptovské droby’, a locally made product, sometimes accompanied by other meat-based regional specialities, is a culinary experience for visitors, and gives a considerable boost to regional development.

The characteristics of the product are not affected by the origin of the potatoes used as ingredients. Instead, they result from the mode of production and the use of a potato filling instead of meat. Since potatoes used to be the preferred crop in Liptov and potato products are closely associated with the region, the potato filling became the distinguishing feature of ‘Liptovské droby’.

Potatoes grown locally are the preferred ingredient: ‘Only local ingredients and production methods known from the past are used’ http://www.teraz.sk/import/agro-zaujem-o-tradicne-liptovske-dr/220506-clanok.html. It is only in exceptional cases (such as poor harvest) that potatoes from another geographical area can be used.

The link between the product and the defined geographical area is found in the inventiveness of the people who managed to use potatoes that were abundantly available in the area to prepare fillings with a balanced blend of all ingredients and spices (finely grated potatoes, ground greaves with roasted onion and herbs, such as marjoram), thus replacing the ingredients used for meat sausage fillings.

The skills of the people producing ‘Liptovské droby’ developed on the basis of knowledge and experience passed from one generation to the next, which is reflected in the quality of the final product. What sets ‘Liptovské droby’ apart from other products is the unique potato filling.

Only experienced persons are in a position to master the complex steps of the production process (such as preparation of the potato filling or stuffing of the casing). Grating raw potatoes, ensuring the right consistency of the filling, the correct ratio of potatoes and semolina flour (which depends on the potato’s water content) and the estimation of the related cooking time and subsequent chilling of the product are tasks for whose correct performance skills and experience acquired in the course of the historical development are indispensable.

The link between ‘Liptovské droby’ and the defined geographical area is also reflected in information provided by travel agencies. At https://www.exclusive-travel.cz/slovenska-republika/informace, the following can be found under ‘GASTRONOMY’: ‘While each region has specialties of its own, potato dumplings with sheep’s cheese topped with roasted bacon and sometimes sour cream are popular throughout the country. Other traditional delicacies include bramborové šišky (potato cones), ‘Liptovské droby’…’.

For a long time ‘Liptovské droby’ has been the favourite delicacy of the inhabitants of Liptov on special occasions of all kinds, like fairs and feasts. Today, this delicacy remains as popular as ever. Every year, the town of Liptovský Mikuláš organises the Švábkafest festival (in the region of Liptov, ‘švábka’ is a colloquial word meaning ‘potato’). In the Liptov region, the Švábkafest has been organised for a number of years to uphold the tradition not only of potato-cultivation, but also of all potato-based products, including ‘Liptovské droby’.

Local and foreign visitors are attracted by the high quality and reputation of the traditional regional products (such as ‘Liptovské droby’), spread not only by word of mouth, but also online and through other media in Slovakia and abroad. Video from Švábkafest (presentation of ‘droby’ starts at 1 min.):

https://www.visitliptov.sk/2017/09/14/fest-zemiakov-na-liptove/

The product is advertised in restaurants as a ‘Traditional Slovak delicacy’ or ‘Traditional speciality of the Liptov region’ and offered at wedding parties - a demonstration of its quality and excellent reputation.

The fact that ‘Liptovské droby’ is a sought-after delicacy inextricably linked to the region is further illustrated in ‘Kuchyňa, zvyky a tradície našich predkov’ [‘The cuisine, customs and traditions of our forefathers’], published by Krajská organizácia cestovného ruchu ŽILINSKÝ TURISTICKÝ KRAJ [the tourism board of the Žilina tourism region]: ‘Dishes based on seasoned potato stuffing (like dumplings and cakes made of leavened dough) continue to be popular in Liptov. Also, we must not forget about ‘Liptovské droby’ - a favourite dish not only for the local population’.

http://www.zilinskazupa.sk/files/on-line-kniznica/kocr/kuchyna-zvyky-3.pdf

The good reputation of the product is also evidenced by its presence on the internet, where it features in recipes, TV and radio programmes and press articles, on travel and tourism websites, and at various events, such as Švábkafest and Liptov Fest.

Since 1993, Radio Slovakia International (RSI) has been broadcasting programmes about Slovakia in six foreign languages, covering a wealth of topics and events. On 13 October 2015, a Spanish programme about Liptovské droby was broadcast, stating that: ‘Milan Velecký visited Liptov and asked people about Liptovské droby. It’s delicious! (El redactor Milan Velecký visitó la región de Liptov y preguntó a la gente sobre los Liptovské droby. Es una exquisitez!)’

https://esrsi.rtvs.sk/clanky/gastronomia/91062/liptovske-droby

The good repute of the product is further attested by it being served at regional celebrations. An article ‘Hrádocké hradné hry’ [‘Castle games in Hrádok’] published in the newspaper ‘Relax’ on 24 August 2017 says: ‘You can’t have fun without good food. The cuisine of Liptov is based on traditional ingredients - such as potatoes and sheep’s milk - that are typical of the region. That is why Liptovské droby is ever-present in Liptovský Hrádok...’.

http://www.dennikrelax.sk/Relax/Krasy-Slovenska/Hradocke-hradne-hry/

‘Regional raw materials and products are inextricably linked to tourism. Liptov too has its own typical products. Our goal is to use these regional characteristics to familiarise tourists with its identity. There’s a plethora of things to try out when visiting. Products made of sheep’s milk, our first-class liquors, or indeed ‘Liptovské droby’, the main ingredient of which is the local potatoes,’ says Darina Bartková, chairwoman of the Liptov region tourism board (http://www.teraz.sk/regiony/l-mikulas-svabkafest-ponukne-ochu/281215-clanok.html?mostViewedArticlesInSectionTab=2)

Visitors may come across Liptovské droby not only in the famous Open Air Museum in Pribylina and the villages of upper and lower Liptov (Štiavnička, Smrečany, Lisková, Bobrovec and others), but also in hotels and restaurants in the defined geographical area.

Reference to publication of the product specification

(the second subparagraph of Article 6(1) of this Regulation)

https://www.indprop.gov.sk/swift_data/source/pdf/specifikacie_op_oz/SPECIFIKACIA%20Liptovske%20droby.pdf

(1) OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.