Publication of a communication of approval of a standard amendment to a product specification for a name in the wine sector referred to in Article 17(2) and (3) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33

(2021/C 87/09)

This communication is published in accordance with Article 17(5) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33 (1).

COMMUNICATION OF STANDARD AMENDMENT MODIFYING THE SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘MOULIN-À-VENT’

PDO-FR-A0933-AM02

Submitted on: 9 December 2020

DESCRIPTION OF AND REASONS FOR THE APPROVED AMENDMENT

1. Geographical area

In chapter I, section IV, point 1, the words ‘based on the 2019 Official Geographical Code’ have been added after ‘the following municipalities’.

This editorial amendment allows the geographical area to be identified with reference to the 2019 version of the Official Geographical Code, which is updated by the National Institute of Statistics and Economic Studies (INSEE), and gives the definition of the geographical area legal certainty.

The boundaries of the geographical area remain unchanged.

A sentence has also been added to inform operators that cartographic documents pertaining to the geographical area are available on the INAO website.

The single document is not affected by these amendments.

2. Parcel area

Point 2) of section IV has been replaced by the following provisions: ‘The wines are made from grapes grown on parcels located in the production area as approved by the National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO) at the meeting of the competent national committee on 14 November 2019’.

The purpose of this amendment is to include the date on which the competent national authority approved changes to the demarcated parcel area within the geographical area of production. Demarcation involves identifying parcels within the geographical area of production that can be used in the production covered by the protected designation of origin.

The single document is not affected by this amendment.

3. Area in immediate proximity

In chapter I, section IV, point 3, the words ‘based on the 2019 Official Geographical Code’ have been added after ‘the following municipalities’.

This editorial amendment allows the area in immediate proximity to be identified with reference to the 2019 version of the Official Geographical Code, published by INSEE.

The boundaries of this area remain unchanged.

The addition of this reference means that the definition of the area in immediate proximity can be legally protected and therefore cannot later be affected by mergers or splits among municipalities or parts of municipalities, or by name changes.

The list of municipalities comprising the area in immediate proximity has also been updated, without changes to the boundary, to take into account the administrative changes made before 2019.

The section of the single document headed ‘Further conditions’ has been amended accordingly.

4. Transitional measure

Chapter I, section XI, point 3 has been deleted as it referred to a specific measure concerning ageing time and, consequently, dates for making the product available to consumers on the market. The period during which producers could use this measure has expired.

The single document is not affected by this amendment.

5. Matters concerning specification monitoring

— Operators are now monitored by a certification body. The words ‘inspection plan’ have been replaced by the words ‘monitoring plan’ in the relevant paragraphs in chapter II of the specification. The single document is not affected by this amendment.

— References to the monitoring body In section II of chapter III: the rules on wording in this section were amended following approval of the specification in December 2011. The purpose was to remove full references to the inspection authority where monitoring is conducted by a certification body. The single document is not affected by this amendment.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

1. Name of the product

Moulin-à-Vent

2. Geographical indication type

PDO – Protected Designation of Origin

3. Categories of grapevine product

1. Wine

4. Description of the wine(s)

Analytical description

The wines are still, dry red wines.

The wines have a minimum natural alcoholic strength by volume of 10,5 %.

The total alcoholic strength by volume of the wines after enrichment does not exceed 13 %.

At the time of packaging, the wines have a maximum malic acid content of 0,4 grams per litre.

Wines that are finished and ready to be released for consumption conform to the following analytical standards:

Maximum fermentable sugar content (glucose and fructose): 3 grams per litre

The standards provided for in EU regulations apply to the maximum total alcoholic strength, minimum actual alcoholic strength, minimum total acidity and maximum total sulphur dioxide content.

The wines are deeply coloured, with hues ranging from ruby to garnet. On the nose, they often have floral and very ripe red fruit notes which, with age, develop into heady scents of spice, truffle and even game. In the mouth, the structure is generous and full-bodied with a balance of strength, complexity and elegance.

The wines may be enjoyed when young but, if kept for several years, their power and finesse increases.

General analytical characteristics Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume) Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume) Minimum total acidity Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre) 14,17 Maximum total sulphur dioxide content (in milligrams per litre)

5. Wine-making practices

a. Specific oenological practices

Practices in the winery

Specific oenological practice

— The use of wood chips is prohibited.

— The total alcoholic strength by volume of the wines after enrichment does not exceed 13 %.

— Subtractive enrichment techniques are permitted up to a concentration rate of 10 %.

In addition to the above provisions, all wine-making practices followed must also comply with the requirements laid down at EU level and in the Rural and Maritime Fishing Code.

Growing method

Planting density

GENERAL PROVISIONS

The minimum density of the vines in the vineyard is 6 000 plants per hectare.

The spacing between the rows is 2,1 metres or less. Between plants in the same row, spacing is at least 0,8 metres.

SPECIAL PROVISIONS

Provided that the minimum density of 6 000 plants per hectare is maintained, for the purposes of mechanisation, the spaces between rows may be a maximum of 3 metres.

Pruning rules

— Pruning is completed by 15 May.

— The wines are made from vines subject to spur pruning and trained to gobelet, éventail, or single or double cordon de Royat, or ‘Charmet’. Each plant has a maximum of ten buds.

— Each plant has three to five spurs with a maximum of two buds. For regeneration purposes, each plant may also have a spur with a maximum of two buds cut from a water shoot arising from the permanent wood.

— During initial pruning, or conversion to a different form of pruning, vines are pruned to a maximum of 12 buds per plant.

Provisions relating to mechanised harvesting

a) The harvest is not piled more than 0,5 metres high in the containers transporting it from the parcel to the winery.

b) The containers are made of inert material suitable for food-use.

c) The equipment for picking and transporting the harvest includes a special water-drainage or protection system.

b. Maximum yields

61 hectolitres per hectare

6. Demarcated geographical area

The grapes are harvested and the wines are produced, developed and aged in the following municipalities, based on the 2019 Official Geographic Code:

— Department of Rhône: Chénas;

— Department of Saône-et-Loire: Romanèche-Thorins.

7. Main wine grape variety(-ies)

Aligoté B

Gamay N

Melon B

8. Description of the link(s)

Description of the natural factors relevant to the link

The geographical area extends over the eastern side of the Beaujolais hills, principally the Montagne de Rémont, at an altitude of 510 metres, and the terraces facing the Saône plain, 15 kilometres south-west of Mâcon and 25 kilometres north of Villefranche-Sur-Saône.

It also covers the territory of the municipalities of Chénas and Romanèche-Thorins, in the departments of Rhône and Saône-et-Loire.

The parcels demarcated for the grape harvest are situated on hilly terrain. To the west the, at times steep, slopes overlook the village of Chénas. To the east, gentler inclines and terraces extend as far as Romanèche-Thorins. Altitude ranges from 190 metres to 420 metres.

Some 80 % of the soils have formed on sandy decomposed granite, pink in colour, derived from the alteration of the granitic rock of the substrate, termed ‘sandstone’ or, locally, ‘gore’. In the southern part and on the eastern border, the soils are more developed, and have formed on colluvium. They are composed of sandy loam mixed with small pebbles and gravel. The soils are generally well drained with seams of iron and manganese oxides dispersed throughout the granitic mass.

Indeed, the most important French manganese deposit was discovered in Romanèche-Thorins, around 1750. In the 18th and 19th centuries, this deposit was mined right up to the middle of the village square. At that time, the rock was known as ‘romanéchite’. It is black and very heavy.

The climate is sub-maritime, subject to continental and southern influences. Rainfall is evenly distributed throughout the year, and the average annual temperature is close to 11 degrees centigrade. The Beaujolais hills play a vital role providing protection from the west winds, thereby diminishing the maritime influence. The hills produce a foehn effect that dries the damp air, enhancing the light and reducing rainfall correspondingly.

The broad Saône valley also plays a significant role in the development of the vines. It provides abundant light and channels southern influences, characterised in particular by intense heat in summer.

Description of the human factors relevant to the geographical link

Vines have been present in the geographical area since ancient times.

In her work Les vins de Bourgogne (The wines of Burgundy), Suzanne Blanchet writes that vines have been grown ‘from the Mâconnais to the Lyonnais’, where forest takes over, since the 1st century (Pliny the Elder). In the 3rd century, when the wines were held in amphorae, they were brought down to Lyon by the nearby River Saône.

From the end of the 15th century, the vineyard reached its true potential, under the impetus of the bourgeoisie of Lyons who had grown rich from silk and banking.

The wine trade in the Beaujolais region grew throughout the 18th century, leading to major changes in the vineyard. Large properties were then divided for ‘métayage’, or sharecropping, a system still very much in evidence in the geographical area.

According to the national archives from 1722: ‘Romanèche is one of the four localities of the Mâconnais which send the greatest number of barrels of wine to Paris’.

The name of the controlled designation of origin comes from the ancient windmill, (moulin à vent in French). Built in 1550, it stands on the hill of Romanèche-Thorins. It milled grain until the mid-19th century, and is now listed as a historic monument. Situated at the heart of the vineyard and visible from afar, the windmill is the perfect symbol of the geographical area of ‘Moulin-à-Vent’.

A ruling by the court of Mâcon on 17 April 1924 officially established the geographical boundaries within which wines named ‘Thorins’ or ‘Moulin-à-Vent’ could be produced. The following year, the Winegrowers’ Union was officially created and prepared the dossier for the recognition of the controlled designation of origin, leading to the decree of 11 September 1936. In order to avoid confusion, the name ‘Thorins’ was dropped.

At the same time, around 40 producers founded the cooperative cellar, established in 1934 in a property belonging to the Château des Michauds, in Chénas. The cooperative produces around 20 % of the wines and represents a driving force for the economy.

The controlled designation of origin ‘Moulin-à-Vent’ represents a marriage of characteristic regional traditions with modern techniques.

In pursuit of quality wines, the producers have learned to tame the Gamay N variety and its growth, notably by using high planting density and spur pruning.

In order for the grapes to ripen properly, producers ensure that the canopy is sufficiently open. In this way, the vines can be trained on fixed trellising. Similarly, producers have adopted a particular wine-making method involving both traditional fermentation and semi-carbon maceration.

The properties are mostly owned by families that have worked on them together for generations.

In 2010, the vineyard covered an area of 650 hectares, producing an annual average of around 30 000 hectolitres.

Information on the quality and characteristics of the product

The wines are deeply coloured, with hues ranging from ruby to garnet.

On the nose, there often have floral and very ripe red fruit notes which, with age, develop into heady scents of spice, truffle and even game.

In the mouth, the structure is generous and full-bodied with a balance of strength, complexity and elegance.

The wines may be enjoyed when young but, if kept for several years, their power and finesse increases.

Causal interactions

Occupying the sides of a ridge of granitic rock, ‘Moulin à Vent’ is known for being the oldest of the ‘Crus du Beaujolais’.

The vineyard is established on a homogenous granitic subsoil, criss-crossed by seams of manganese which are visible as fragments scattered through the soils. History tells that this black ore is the reason for the special character of the wines.

The vineyard parcels planted with the Gamay N variety occupy gentle slopes, with good east and south-east orientation, protected from the west winds by the Beaujolais hills. With their positioning, they are warmed by the earliest rays of the dawning sun.

The granitic base has low fertility which helps to manage yields and contributes to the development of distinct fruity aromas in the wines.

Producers care about preserving the best parcels. They mention the names of the most prestigious ‘lieux-dits’, or plots, on the labels.

The reputation of ‘Moulin-à-Vent’ is long-established. As far back as the 18th century, it is attested in a case brought by Mr Pierre-Étienne Chalandon, merchant of Mâcon, against a producer suspected of supplying second- or third-rate wines under the name ‘Moulin-à-Vent’. In his 1816 work, Topographie de tous les vignobles connus (Topography of all known vineyards), Jullien writes admiringly of the wines of ‘Moulin-à-Vent’, then classified as ‘first class’, which could be kept for more than ten years in the bottle.

The producers always identify themselves using the windmill, the symbol of the ‘Moulin-à-Vent’ controlled designation of origin. It appears on many labels and promotional documents, and inspired the artist Maurice Utrillo.

In 1996, the producers of ‘Moulin-à-Vent’ and ‘Chénas’ united to create the ‘Association of Master Wine-Growers of Chénas and Moulin-à-Vent’. In this way, the reputation of the wines of the two controlled designations of origin was formally confirmed.

9. Essential further conditions (packaging, labelling, other requirements)

Area in immediate proximity

Legal framework:

National legislation

Type of further condition:

Derogation concerning production in the demarcated geographical area

Description of the condition:

The area in the immediate vicinity, defined by derogation for the making, processing and ageing of the wines, comprises the territory of the following municipalities, based on the Official Geographic Code for 2019:

— Department of Côte-d’Or: Agencourt, Aloxe-Corton, Ancey, Arcenant, Argilly, Autricourt, Auxey-Duresses, Baubigny, Beaune, Belan-sur-Ource, Bévy, Bissey-la-Côte, Bligny-lès-Beaune, Boncourt-le-Bois, Bouix, Bouze-lès-Beaune, Brion-sur-Ource, Brochon, Cérilly, Chamboeuf, Chambolle-Musigny, Channay, Charrey-sur-Seine, Chassagne-Montrachet, Châtillon-sur-Seine, Chaumont-le-Bois, Chaux, Chenôve, Chevannes, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Clémencey, Collonges-lès-Bévy, Combertault, Comblanchien, Corcelles-les-Arts, Corcelles-les-Monts, Corgoloin, Cormot-Vauchignon, Corpeau, Couchey, Curley, Curtil-Vergy, Daix, Dijon, Ebaty, Echevronne, Epernay-sous-Gevrey, L’Etang-Vergy, Etrochey, Fixin, Flagey-Echézeaux, Flavignerot, Fleurey-sur-Ouche, Fussey, Gerland, Gevrey-Chambertin, Gilly-lès-Cîteaux, Gomméville, Grancey-sur-Ource, Griselles, Ladoix-Serrigny, Lantenay, Larrey, Levernois, Magny-lès-Villers, Mâlain, Marcenay, Marey-lès-Fussey, Marsannay-la-Côte, Massingy, Mavilly-Mandelot, Meloisey, Merceuil, Messanges, Meuilley, Meursanges, Meursault, Molesme, Montagny-lès-Beaune, Monthelie, Montliot-et-Courcelles, Morey-Saint-Denis, Mosson, Nantoux, Nicey, Noiron-sur-Seine, Nolay, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Obtrée, Pernand-Vergelesses, Perrigny-lès-Dijon, Plombières-lès-Dijon, Poinçon-lès-Larrey, Pommard, Pothières, Premeaux-Prissey, Prusly-sur-Ource, Puligny-Montrachet, Quincey, Reulle-Vergy, La Rochepot, Ruffey-lès-Beaune, Saint-Aubin, Saint-Bernard, Saint-Philibert, Saint-Romain, Sainte-Colombe-sur-Seine, Sainte-Marie-la-Blanche, Santenay, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Segrois, Tailly, Talant, Thoires, Vannaire, Velars-sur-Ouche, Vertault, Vignoles, Villars-Fontaine, Villebichot, Villedieu, Villers-la-Faye, Villers-Patras, Villy-le-Moutier, Vix, Volnay, Vosne-Romanée, Vougeot;

— Department of Rhône: Alix, Anse, L’Arbresle, Les Ardillats, Arnas, Bagnols, Beaujeu, Belleville-en-Beaujolais, Belmont-d’Azergues, Blacé, Le Breuil, Bully, Cercié, Chambost-Allières, Chamelet, Charentay, Charnay, Chasselay, Châtillon, Chazay-d’Azergues, Chessy, Chiroubles, Cogny, Corcelles-en-Beaujolais, Dardilly, Denicé, Deux Grosnes (only the part corresponding to the territory of the former municipality of Avenas), Dracé, Emeringes, Fleurie, Fleurieux-sur-l’Arbresle, Frontenas, Gleizé, Juliénas, Jullié, Lacenas, Lachassagne, Lancié, Lantignié, Légny, Létra, Limas, Lozanne, Lucenay, Marchampt, Marcy, Moiré, Montmelas-Saint-Sorlin, Morancé, Odenas, Le Perréon, Pommiers, Porte des Pierres Dorées. Quincié-en-Beaujolais, Régnié-Durette, Rivolet, Sain-Bel, Saint-Clément-sur-Valsonne, Saint-Cyr-le-Chatoux, Saint-Didier-sur-Beaujeu, Saint-Etienne-des-Oullières, Saint-Etienne-la-Varenne, Saint-Georges-de-Reneins, Saint-Germain-Nuelles, Saint-Jean-des-Vignes, Saint-Julien, Saint-Just-d’Avray, Saint-Lager, Saint-Romain-de-Popey, Saint-Vérand, Sainte-Paule, Salles-Arbuissonnas-en-Beaujolais, Sarcey, Taponas, Ternand, Theizé, Val d’Oingt, Vaux-en-Beaujolais, Vauxrenard, Vernay, Villefranche-sur-Saône, Ville-sur-Jarnioux, Villié-Morgon, Vindry-sur-Turdine (only the part corresponding to the territory of the former municipalities of Dareizé, Les Olmes and Saint-Loup);

— Department of Saône-et-Loire: Aluze, Ameugny, Azé, Barizey, Beaumont-sur-Grosne, Berzé-la-Ville, Berzé-le-Châtel, Bissey-sous-Cruchaud, Bissy-la-Mâconnaise, Bissy-sous-Uxelles, Bissy-sur-Fley, Blanot, Bonnay, Bouzeron, Boyer, Bray, Bresse-sur-Grosne, Burgy, Burnand, Bussières, Buxy, Cersot, Chagny, Chaintré, Chalon-sur-Saône, Chamilly, Champagny-sous-Uxelles, Champforgeuil, Chânes, Change, Chapaize, La Chapelle-de-Bragny, La Chapelle-de-Guinchay, La Chapelle-sous-Brancion, Charbonnières, Chardonnay, La Charmée, Charnay-lès-Mâcon, Charrecey, Chasselas, Chassey-le-Camp, Château, Châtenoy-le-Royal, Chaudenay, Cheilly-lès-Maranges, Chenôves, Chevagny-les-Chevrières, Chissey-lès-Mâcon, Clessé, Cluny, Cormatin, Cortambert, Cortevaix, Couches, Crêches-sur-Saône, Créot, Cruzille, Culles-les-Roches, Curtil-sous-Burnand, Davayé, Demigny, Dennevy, Dezize-lès-Maranges, Donzy-le-Pertuis, Dracy-le-Fort, Dracy-lès-Couches, Epertully, Etrigny, Farges-lès-Chalon, Farges-lès-Mâcon, Flagy, Fleurville, Fley, Fontaines, Fragnes-La-Loyère (only the part corresponding to the territory of the former municipality of La Loyère), Fuissé, Genouilly, Germagny, Givry, Granges, Grevilly, Hurigny, Igé, Jalogny, Jambles, Jugy, Jully-lès-Buxy, Lacrost, Laives, Laizé, Lalheue, Leynes, Lournand, Lugny, Mâcon, Malay, Mancey, Martailly-lès-Brancion, Massilly, Mellecey, Mercurey, Messey-sur-Grosne, Milly-Lamartine, Montagny-lès-Buxy, Montbellet, Montceaux-Ragny, Moroges, Nanton, Ozenay, Paris-l’Hôpital, Péronne, Pierreclos, Plottes, Préty, Prissé, Pruzilly, Remigny, La Roche-Vineuse, Rosey, Royer, Rully, Saint-Albain, Saint-Ambreuil, Saint-Amour-Bellevue, Saint-Boil, Saint-Clément-sur-Guye, Saint-Denis-de-Vaux, Saint-Désert, Saint-Gengoux-de-Scissé, Saint-Gengoux-le-National, Saint-Germain-lès-Buxy, Saint-Gervais-sur-Couches, Saint-Gilles, Saint-Jean-de-Trézy, Saint-Jean-de-Vaux, Saint-Léger-sur-Dheune, Saint-Mard-de-Vaux, Saint-Martin-Belle-Roche, Saint-Martin-du-Tartre, Saint-Martin-sous-Montaigu, Saint-Maurice-de-Satonnay, Saint-Maurice-des-Champs, Saint-Maurice-lès-Couches, Saint-Pierre-de-Varennes, Saint-Rémy, Saint-Sernin-du-Plain, Saint-Symphorien-d’Ancelles, Saint-Vallerin, Saint-Vérand, Saint-Ythaire, Saisy, La Salle, Salornay-sur-Guye, Sampigny-lès-Maranges, Sancé, Santilly, Sassangy, Saules, Savigny-sur-Grosne, Sennecey-le-Grand, Senozan, Sercy, Serrières, Sigy-le-Châtel, Sologny, Solutré-Pouilly, Taizé, Tournus, Uchizy, Varennes-lès-Mâcon, Vaux-en-Pré, Vergisson, Vers, Verzé, Le Villars, La Vineuse sur Fregande (only the part corresponding to the territory of the former municipalities of Donzy-le-National, Massy and La Vineuse), Vinzelles, Viré;

— Department of Yonne: Aigremont, Annay-sur-Serein, Arcy-sur-Cure, Asquins, Augy, Auxerre, Avallon, Bazarnes, Beine, Bernouil, Béru, Bessy-sur-Cure, Bleigny-le-Carreau, Censy, Chablis, Champlay, Champs-sur-Yonne, Chamvres, La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne, Charentenay, Châtel-Gérard, Chemilly-sur-Serein, Cheney, Chevannes, Chichée, Chitry, Collan, Coulangeron, Coulanges-la-Vineuse, Courgis, Cruzy-le-Châtel, Dannemoine, Deux Rivières, Dyé, Epineuil, Escamps, Escolives-Sainte-Camille, Fleys, Fontenay-près-Chablis, Gy-l’Evêque, Héry, Irancy, Island, Joigny, Jouancy, Junay, Jussy, Lichères-près-Aigremont, Lignorelles, Ligny-le-Châtel, Lucy-sur-Cure, Maligny, Mélisey, Merry-Sec, Migé, Molay, Molosmes, Montigny-la-Resle, Montholon (only the part in the territory of the former municipalities of Champvallon, Villiers sur Tholon and Volgré), Mouffy, Moulins-en-Tonnerrois, Nitry, Noyers, Ouanne, Paroy-sur-Tholon, Pasilly, Pierre-Perthuis, Poilly-sur-Serein, Pontigny, Préhy, Quenne, Roffey, Rouvray, Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, Saint-Cyr-les-Colons, Saint-Père, Sainte-Pallaye, Sainte-Vertu, Sarry, Senan, Serrigny, Tharoiseau, Tissey, Tonnerre, Tronchoy, Val-de-Mercy, Vallan, Venouse, Venoy, Vermenton, Vézannes, Vézelay, Vézinnes, Villeneuve-Saint-Salves, Villy, Vincelles, Vincelottes, Viviers, Yrouerre.

Labelling

Legal framework:

National legislation

Type of further condition:

Additional provisions relating to labelling

Description of the condition:

a) Wines with the controlled designation of origin may display the name of a smaller geographical unit on their labels, provided that: — it is the name of a place in the land register; — it appears on the harvest declaration. The name of the registered location appears immediately after the controlled designation of origin, and is printed in lettering no greater in both height and width than the letters in which the name of the controlled designation of origin is written.

b) The labels of wines entitled to the controlled designation of origin can mention the larger geographical entity ‘Vin du Beaujolais’, ‘Grand Vin du Beaujolais’ or ‘Cru du Beaujolais’. The size of the letters for the larger geographical unit must not be greater, either in height or width, than two-thirds of the size of the letters forming the name of the controlled designation of origin.

Link to the product specification

https://info.agriculture.gouv.fr/gedei/site/bo-agri/document_administratif-10009261-9fab-4519-9359-c1535d713844

(1) OJ L 9, 11.1.2019, p. 2.