EN Official Journal of the European Union C 102/12

Publication of an amendment application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

2013/C 102/09

This publication confers the right to oppose the amendment application, pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1).

AMENDMENT APPLICATION

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006

on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs (2)

AMENDMENT APPLICATION ACCORDING TO ARTICLE 9

‘VOLAILLE DE BRESSE’/‘POULET DE BRESSE’/‘POULARDE DE BRESSE’/‘CHAPON DE BRESSE’

EC No: FR-PDO-0117-0145-17.11.2010

PGI ( ) PDO ( X )

1. Heading in the specification affected by the amendment:

— ☒ Name of product — ☒ Description of product — ☒ Geographical area — ☒ Proof of origin — ☒ Method of production — ☒ Link — ☒ Labelling — ☒ National requirements — ☒ Other (update of the contact details of the group, the competent authorities and the inspection bodies)

2. Type of amendment(s):

—  Amendment to single document or summary sheet — ☒ Amendment to specification of registered PDO or PGI for which neither the single document nor the summary sheet has been published —  Amendment to specification that requires no amendment to the published single document (Article 9(3) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006) —  Temporary amendment to specification resulting from imposition of obligatory sanitary or phytosanitary measures by public authorities (Article 9(4) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006)

3. Amendment(s):

3.1. Name of product:

The name registered under Regulation (EC) No 1107/96 of 12 June 1996 retains only part of the name for which registration was applied for initially. The error that occurred during registration is therefore corrected. The registered name is ‘Volaille de Bresse’/‘Poulet de Bresse’/‘Poularde de Bresse’/‘Chapon de Bresse’.

3.2. Description of product:

The rearing period is calculated by adding together all rearing periods and expressed systematically in ‘days’ to make it easier to determine the minimum slaughter age and carry out checks.

The total rearing period of the chickens increases from 106 to 108 days. This takes into account the longer period of time spent in an ‘épinette’ (a cage, usually of wood) in the final fattening phase. Likewise, the minimum weight of the chickens rises from 1,2 kg to 1,3 kg after gutting. These amendments help improve the final quality of the product (meatier poultry).

In addition, ‘poulard’ is defined as follows: ‘sexually mature females that have formed their egg string but have not yet entered the laying cycle’.

For capons, the marketing period is defined in order to provide more information on the traditional exclusive sale practice related to the year-end festivities. Finally, the paragraph on the possibility of rolling the poulards and also the chickens is reworded so that it describes the traditional practices in more detail and specifies that the birds can be marketed with or without a rolling cloth.

3.3. Definition of the geographical area:

More information is provided on the list of steps taking place in the geographical area in order to remove any ambiguity: selection, mating, hatching, rearing, slaughter, preparation of the poultry and, if applicable, their deep freezing. This list reiterates the national provisions laid down in the decree on the designation of origin.

3.4. Proof of origin:

Owing to developments in national legislation and regulations, the heading ‘Evidence that the product originates in the defined geographical area’ has been consolidated and now includes provisions on declaration obligations and on the keeping of registers for tracing the product and monitoring production conditions.

These amendments are related to the reform of the system for inspecting designations of origin introduced by Order 2006/1547 of 7 December 2006 on increasing the value of agricultural, forestry, food and marine products. In particular, provisions on authorising operators are included in order to acknowledge that they are able to meet the requirements of the specification for the designation from which they wish to benefit. Inspection of the specification for the ‘Volaille de Bresse’ PDO takes place according to an inspection plan drawn up by an inspection body.

Moreover, this heading contains several new provisions on registers and declaration documents enabling the traceability of the poultry to be guaranteed.

3.5. Method of production:

3.5.1. Selection, mating and hatching

Additional selection requirements are introduced in order to guarantee the preservation of the breed. Further details are provided concerning eggs and chicks, including, in particular, a minimum weight (50 g for eggs and 32 g for chicks).

3.5.2. Rearing

The amendment allows producers to include a small number of guinea fowl in the consignments so that they can scare off predators with their behaviour. This is a traditional practice in Bresse. These fowl are reared in the same conditions and are naturally taken into account in density calculations in order to guarantee the well-being of the poultry and good rearing conditions.

The initial texts (1957) on this poultry did not define any specific density. A density requirement in the start-up period and details on the equipment necessary at this stage (feeders and drinkers) make it possible to improve health management at the farms. They contribute to the well-being of the animals and consequently to the final quality of the product.

The suggested density during the growth period is increased (a maximum of 12 chickens and poulards per square metre in a building) so that all the animals can be taken into account throughout the rearing period. This density corresponds to current practice. The density for capons remains unchanged. It is specified that the density requirement applies as from 15 July, in other words as from the date of castration.

The final fattening period for chickens, which takes place in an ‘épinette’, increases from 8 to 10 days in order to improve quality. The final fattening period for poulards is decreased to a minimum of 21 days, although the total rearing period remains the same (140 days minimum). This provision takes into account the variation in the length of day and night during the year so as to prevent poulards from laying eggs when days start getting longer.

More details are provided on the conditions in which the final fattening in ‘épinettes’ takes place, namely the organisation of the premises, the density in the ‘épinettes’, the total number of animals in the premises and the type of cages, which are not necessarily made of wood.

3.5.3. Rearing conditions and management of the runs

For this poultry, the run is an important source of food resources found in grass and of living organisms (molluscs, insects, etc.), which develop particularly well in the soil and humid climate of Bresse (clayey soil impermeable to the frequent rainfall). The introduction of provisions on methods of managing the grassed runs aims at securing the quality of this resource and promoting the well-being of the animals.

The proposals concern in particular the following points:

— defining the concepts of poultry batches and consignments in order to reinforce the traceability of production,

— specifying that annual production is limited to 1 500 gallinaceans per hectare of runs so as to keep the grass cover of the run in good condition,

— specifying that the depopulation of the run must be carried out at least two weeks before the poultry is let out,

— providing details on the nature of the grasslands (permanent grasslands or temporary grasslands of more than one year) and their maintenance,

— introducing an obligation to have hedges of a minimum length of 25 m per hectare,

— reducing the distance authorised between rearing houses,

— introducing an obligation to have a manure enclosure on the runs.

Other amendments aim at strengthening the link between the protected designation of origin ‘Volaille de Bresse’ and the geographical area and also at improving the quality and traceability of poultry with the protected designation of origin:

— providing details on the phases carried out on the same farm. The group wanted to provide more details on the traditional practice of rearing poultry in successive periods of growth and final fattening on the same farm. This prevents the animals from becoming stressed and also prevents any health risks that might be caused by a change of rearing place (transport, change of buildings and atmosphere, changes in the social organisation of the consignment, etc.) and that might affect the final quality of the product,

— introducing a maximum chick batch size per building and a maximum chick density,

— increasing the maximum number of animals in a poultry consignment to 700,

— introducing provisions on the lengths of feeders and drinkers used in the different rearing periods,

— providing details on the preventive measures taken to ensure poultry health and on the cleaning, disinfection and depopulation measures taken in the buildings.

3.5.4. Feeding

Details are provided on the feeding of this poultry, in particular:

— during the start-up period, a positive list of the elements constituting the starter and a maximum total fat content (6 %) are introduced in order to provide basic rules for feeding during that period. It is specified that the grains, which must make up at least 50 % of the ration, must come from the geographical area,

— during the growth period, the proposed amendments provide detailed information on feeding practices. Indeed, the feed is composed principally of resources found in the runs, to which are added grains from the geographical area and milk products. The objective of the amendments is to prevent sub-deficiencies in the poultry and to provide clearer rules for supplementing their feed. Therefore, during the growth and final fattening periods, a minimum percentage of 40 % of maize is added to the ration, in accordance with the tradition in Bresse. Detailed information has been provided on the nature of the grains and milk products distributed during these periods as well as on their amounts. It is specified that the poultry may be provided with vegetable protein, mineral and vitamin supplements in addition to local resources. The quantity and the quality of these supplements are restricted (protein content limited to 15 %). The purpose is to balance the ration while limiting its protein content. This forces ‘Volaille de Bresse’ to forage the run for the main portion of its feed (grass, insects, small molluscs, etc.), which in turn guarantees the maintenance of the typical characteristics forming the link with the geographical area,

— a ban is introduced on the use of GMOs in all feed of ‘Volaille de Bresse’, including in the feed distributed during the start-up period, and on the planting of genetically modified plant varieties in the holdings.

3.5.5. Slaughter, preparation and packaging

The minimum weight requirement at the time of delivery or removal is deleted, as the provision resulted in a double checking system where both the estimated live weight at the time of removal or delivery and the weight of the gutted poultry at the slaughterhouse were verified. It seemed more relevant to maintain checks on the weight of the gutted poultry, which corresponds to the marketed product.

The amendments aim at increasing the upper temperature limit during scalding in order to adapt the provision to chickens, poulards and capons, which have different weights and fat covers.

Bleeding, gutting and evisceration, finalising of the plucking and cleaning of the collar of feathers will continue to be carried out manually. However, it is specified that the circular incision in the vent of the poultry can be made with a vent gun, which is a semi-manual tool.

The concept of ‘preparing’ poultry has been defined: it means finalising plucking and cleaning the collar of feathers. This is a manual step that also offers the opportunity to evaluate the product just before affixing the identification marks that will guarantee its traceability.

The bridling procedure is described in more detail.

Finally, freezing is replaced with deep freezing. The introduction of a deep-freezing procedure (maximum time limit for deep freezing, temperatures, final date for use) make it possible to ensure the best product quality.

3.6. Link with the geographical area:

This part is rewritten to show the characteristics of the geographical area as well as the characteristics of the product and its link with the geographical area. This heading was added pursuant to Regulation (EC) No 510/2006.

3.7. Labelling:

Further details are added concerning the process for issuing identification marks, the use of the name ‘Bresse’ on the accompanying documents and invoices and the information found on the mark and the label.

3.8. National requirements:

Owing to developments in national legislation and regulations, the heading ‘National requirements’ now consists of a table of the main items to be checked, their reference values and the evaluation method to be used.

3.9. Contact details of the competent authorities, the group and the inspection bodies:

The contact details of the certifying body responsible for inspecting the PDO and those of the competent authorities and of the group have been updated.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006

on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs

‘VOLAILLE DE BRESSE’/‘POULET DE BRESSE’/‘POULARDE DE BRESSE’/‘CHAPON DE BRESSE’

EC No: FR-PDO-0117-0145-17.11.2010

PGI ( ) PDO ( X )

1. Name:

‘Volaille de Bresse’/‘Poulet de Bresse’/‘Poularde de Bresse’/‘Chapon de Bresse’

2. Member State or Third Country:

France

3. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff:

3.1. Type of product:

Class 1.1. Fresh meat (and offal)

3.2. Description of product to which the name in point 1 applies:

‘Volaille de Bresse’/‘Poulet de Bresse’/‘Poularde de Bresse’/‘Chapon de Bresse’ belong to the Gallus genus and to the ‘gauloise’ or Bresse breed of the white variety. At adult age, the animals display unique external characteristics.

‘Poulet de Bresse’ is a male or female chicken aged at least 108 days and weighing a minimum of 1,3 kg after gutting (or 1 kg when ‘oven-ready’). ‘Poularde de Bresse’ is a sexually mature female that is aged at least 140 days and weighs a minimum of 1,8 kg after gutting and that has formed its egg string but has not yet entered the laying cycle. The chickens and poulards may have been rolled and bridled, as is customary.

‘Chapon de Bresse’ is a castrated male aged at least 224 days and weighing a minimum of 3 kg after gutting. It is marketed solely in connection with the year-end festivities, between 1 November and 31 January. As is customary, it must have been rolled in a cloth of plant origin (linen, hemp, cotton) and bridled so that the bird is entirely ‘wrapped up’ except for the neck, the upper third of which is left unplucked.

The slaughtered poultry must be meaty, with well-developed fillets; their skin must be neat, without quills, tears, bruises or abnormal coloration; the backbone must be concealed by the fat cover; there may be no changes to the natural shape of the breastbone. The extremities may not have any fractures. the collar of feathers on the upper third of the neck must be clean. All dirt must be removed from the feet.

The poultry is marketed ‘gutted’. Only chickens may be presented ‘oven-ready’ and ‘deep frozen’, on condition that the extremities, with the exception of the phalanges, have not been amputated.

Poultry that has been rolled and bridled may be marketed either rolled or unrolled. If unrolled, they have an oblong shape. The wings and the feet are embedded in the body and no longer project outwards. The meat must be firm, hard and keep its shape well.

3.3. Raw materials (for processed products only):

—

3.4. Feed (for products of animal origin only):

The poultry is reared in three successive phases, called the start-up, growth and final fattening periods. During these periods, only the following are authorised in the poultry feed:

— grains exclusively from the geographical area of the designation of origin and produced, if possible, on the holding,

— plants, by-products and supplementary feed from non-transgenic products.

During the start-up period, which lasts for a maximum of 35 days, at least 50 % of the feed ration is made up of grains, to which may be added a supplement of plant materials, milk products, vitamins and minerals.

After the start-up period, the poultry is reared on grassy runs. The feed is then composed principally of resources found on the run (grass, insects, small molluscs, etc.), to which the following grains are added: maize, buckwheat, wheat, oats, triticale, barley as well as milk and its by-products. These grains, of which maize makes up at least 40 % of the feed ration, may have been cooked, germinated, crushed or milled. No other processing is allowed. Between the 36th and 84th day of rearing, which coincides with the period when the skeleton is developing, the poultry may be provided with proteins, minerals and vitamins to supplement local resources.

The protein content of the daily feed ration is 15 % maximum.

This growth period is followed by a final fattening period lasting at least 10 days for chickens, 3 weeks for poulards and 4 weeks for capons. It takes place in cages called ‘épinettes’ in a dark, calm and well-ventilated room. During this period, the feed ration of the poultry is the same as during the growth period, though rice may be added.

To summarise, nearly 90 % of the feed of the poultry (runs and grains) comes from the geographical area.

3.5. Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area:

The selection, mating and hatching as well as the rearing and slaughter of the poultry take place in the geographical area.

3.6. Specific rules on slicing, grating, packaging, etc.:

The preparation of the poultry (final plucking and cleaning the collar of feathers), their packaging and, for chickens only if applicable, their deep freezing, take place in the geographical area. The products are presented as follows:

— ‘gutted’,

— ‘rolled and bridled’. Rolling and bridling, which are obligatory for the capon, consist of presenting the poultry in a traditional manner, in a cloth of plant origin (linen, cotton or hemp) that is wrapped tightly and sewn by hand (at least 15-20 stitches, depending on whether the animal is a chicken, poulard or capon),

— ‘oven-ready’ or ‘deep frozen’ for chickens only. The extremities of the poultry (with the exception of the phalanges) are kept.

The obligation to carry out these steps in the geographical area is justified considering the highly specific and traditional know-how involved. The rolling and bridling of the poultry are the best example of this know-how. The technique is used especially for the year-end festivities. It enables the fats to seep more deeply into the muscles, which helps bring out the organoleptic characteristics of the products. Operators in the ‘Volaille de Bresse’ sector have maintained these practices in spite of the time and work necessary to present the products in this way. The ‘oven-ready’ and ‘deep frozen’ presentations are also typical of the ‘Volaille de Bresse’ PDO in that the extremities may not be amputated (except for the phalanges).

Furthermore, the very delicate skin of the poultry requires special attention, so that it is not torn during plucking, wrapping and packaging. Therefore, it is necessary to limit to the extent possible any handling that might mark or damage the skin (tears, bruises and abnormal coloration are reasons for downgrading poultry in accordance with the product description).

Finally, carrying out these operations in the geographical area is necessary because they are carried out at the same time as the PDO classification of the poultry. The poultry may be marketed with the PDO logo as from the date of this final classification step. The classification is concretised by affixing the identification marks, in particular the marks (and the seals for poulards and capons). These marks serve as identification instruments but also guarantee the traceability of the products.

3.7. Specific rules concerning labelling:

‘Volaille de Bresse’/‘Poulet de Bresse’/‘Poularde de Bresse’/‘Chapon de Bresse’ carry the farmer’s ring, the slaughterman’s mark, a specific label and, for poulards and capons, an identification seal.

The label is affixed to the back of the poultry that is presented ‘gutted’ and to the breastbone of the poultry that is presented ‘oven-ready’ in connection with classifying the poultry as a designation of origin before dispatching. The label features the European Union PDO logo.

Models of identification marks:

The non-transferable ring consists of a tamper-proof band featuring the farmer’s contact details. The non-transferable mark consists of a clip bearing the word ‘Bresse’. In the case of slaughterhouses, the contact details of the slaughterman are included. If the poultry is slaughtered by the farmer on the farm, the mark bears the words ‘Abattage à la ferme’.

The identification seals of the capons and poulards consist of a seal bearing the words ‘Poularde de Bresse roulée’ or ‘Poularde de Bresse’ or ‘Chapon de Bresse’ and the words ‘appellation d’origine contrôlée’ or ‘appellation d’origine protégée’.

Conditions for affixing identification marks:

The farmer attaches the ring to the left foot of the animal before dispatch from the farm. The mark is affixed to the base of the neck in connection with classifying the poultry as a designation of origin before dispatching. The ring and the mark may only be used once and they must be affixed carefully in order to render them tamper-proof. The seals are affixed to the base of the neck and kept in place by the mark.

4. Concise definition of the geographical area:

The geographical area of the designation of origin ‘Volaille de Bresse’ covers the following municipalities or parts of them:

Department of l'Ain (01): the cantons of Bâgé-le-Châtel, Bourg-en-Bresse-Est, Bourg-en-Bresse-Nord-Centre, Bourg-en-Bresse-Sud, Montrevel-en-Bresse, Péronnas, Pont-de-Vaux, Pont-de-Veyle, Saint-Trivier-de-Courtes and Viriat.

The municipalities or part of the municipalities of the cantons of: Ceyzériat: Ceyzériat (Ouest D52), Jasseron (Ouest D52); Châtillon-sur-Chalaronne: l’Abergement-Clémenciat (Nord Châtillon), Biziat, Chanoz-Châtenay, Châtillon-sur-Chalaronne (Nord Ouest), Chaveyriat, Condeissiat, Dompierre-sur-Chalaronne (Nord Chalaronne), Mézériat, Neuville-les-Dames, Saint-Julien-sur-Veyle, Sulignat, Vonnas; Coligny: Beaupont, Bény, Coligny (Ouest N83/D52), Domsure, Marboz, Pirajoux, Salavre (Ouest N83), Verjon (Ouest N83), Villemotier; Pont-d’Ain: Certines, Dompierre-sur-Veyle (partially), Druillat (partially), Saint-Martin-du-Mont (Ouest D52), Tossiat (Ouest D52), La Tranclière; Thoissey: Garnerans, Illiat, Saint-Didier-sur-Chalaronne (Nord Chalaronne), Saint-Etienne-sur-Chalaronne (Nord Chalaronne), Thoissey; Treffort-Cuisiat: Courmangoux (Ouest D52), Meillonnas (Ouest D52), Pressiat (Ouest D52), Saint-Etienne-du-Bois, Treffort-Cuisiat (Ouest D52).

Department of Jura (39): the municipalities or part of the municipalities of the cantons of: Beaufort: Augea (Ouest N83), Beaufort (Ouest N83), Bonnaud, Cezancey (Ouest N83), Cousance (Ouest N83), Cuisia (Ouest N83), Mallerey, Maynal (Ouest N83), Orbagnia (Ouest N83), Sainte-Agnès (Ouest N83), Vercia (Ouest N83), Vincelles (Ouest N83); Bletterans: Bletterans, Chapelle-Voland, Cosges, Desnes (Ouest), Fontainebrux, Larnaud, Nance, Relans, Les Repôts, Ruffey-sur-Seille (partially), Villevieux; Chaumergy: Bois-de-Gand (Ouest), La Chassagne (Sud D468), Chaumergy (partially), La Chaux-en-Bresse (Ouest D95), Chêne-Sec, Commenailles, Foulenay (partially), Francheville (Ouest D95 + Sud D468), Froideville (partially), Rye (Ouest D468), Vincent (Ouest D95); Chaussin: Asnans-Beauvoisin (Ouest D468), Chaînée-des-Coupis (Sud-Ouest), Chaussin (Sud D468), Les Essards-Taignevaux (Ouest D468), Les Hays, Neublans-Abergement; Chemins: Annoire (Sud du Doubs), Longwy-sur-le-Doubs (partially), Petit-Noir (Ouest du Doubs); Lons-le-Saunier Nord: Chilly-le-Vignoble, Condamine, Courlans, Courlaoux, Montmorot (Sud N78+Ouest N83); Lons-le-Saunier-Sud: Frébuans, Gevingey (Ouest N83), Messia-sur-Sorne (Nord N83), Trenal; Saint-Amour: Balanod (Ouest N83), Chazelles, Digna (Ouest N83), Nanc-lès-Saint-Amour (Ouest N83), Saint-Amour (Ouest N83), Saint-Jean-d’Etreux (Ouest N83).

Department of Saône et Loire (71): Les Cantons de Beaurepaire-en-Bresse, Cuisery, Louhans, Montpont-en-Bresse, Montret, Saint-Germain-du-Bois, Saint-Germain-du-Plain, Saint-Martin-en-Bresse.

The municipalities or part of the municipalities of the cantons of: Chalon-sur-Saône-Sud: Chalon-sur-Saône (left bank), Châtenoy-en-Bresse, Epervans, Lans, Oslon, Saint-Marcel; Cuiseaux: Champagnat (Ouest N83), Condal, Cuiseaux (partially), Dommartin-les-Cuiseaux, Flacey-en-Bresse, Frontenaud, Joudes (Ouest N83), Le Miroir, Varennes-Saint-Sauveur; Pierre-de-Bresse: Authumes, Beauvernois, Bellevesvre, La Chapelle-Saint-Sauveur, Charrette-Varennes (partially), La Chaux, Dampierre-en-Bresse, Fretterans (partie), Frontenard, Lays-sur-le-Doubs (partially), Montjay, Mouthier-en-Bresse, Pierre-de-Bresse, La Racineuse, Saint-Bonnet-en-Bresse, Torpes; Tournus: Lacrost, Préty, Ratenelle, Romenay, Tournus (partially), La Truchère; Verdun-sur-le-Doubs: Ciel, Longepierre (sud), Navilly (Sud du Doubs), Pontoux, Sermesse, Toutenant, Verdun-sur-le-Doubs, Verjux.

5. Link with the geographical area:

5.1. Specificity of the geographical area:

— Natural factors

The production area of the poultry is a slightly undulating plain where hedgerows predominate. It is composed of periglacial plio-quaternary geological materials, which result in very clayey and impermeable soils. The climate, strongly influenced by the ocean, is humid and often foggy.

Maize, which appeared in Bresse at the beginning of the 17th century (a little over a century later than on the Andalusian coast), has played a central role in the local farming system. It serves as a staple food for humans and a basic feed for farm poultry. In this context, traditional mixed farming based on grass and crop farming and on poultry and cattle farming (dairy, later suckling cattle) became established over the centuries and continues to this day.

— Human factors

Already in 1591, the municipal registers of the town of Bourg-en-Bresse mention ‘Volailles de Bresse’ and, in particular, ‘fat capons’. Starting in the 17th century, the use of capons and poulards for payments in kind became widespread and, at the end of the 18th century, this practice was included in all leases. The succulence of the meat was highlighted later by gastronomer Brillat-Savarin, who praised Bresse poulards in his book Physiologie du gout in 1825: ‘Pour la poularde, la préférence appartient à celle de Bresse.’

Production was promoted by the marketing facilities built in connection with the Paris–Lyon–Marseille (PLM) railway line. The proximity of a large built-up area such as Lyon was certainly another significant development factor.

The local breed, recognised as the only breed entitled to the designation of origin, is very hardy and well adapted to the environment and the damp soils of Bresse. In the past, each farmer selected the breeding animals in his flock. Then, in 1955, a selection centre was established as a result of collective efforts within the sector. It manages a genealogical selection system enabling the preservation of the breed.

The rearing practices are based on an ancestral feeding regime where the poultry feed independently in the grassed runs (earthworms, grass, etc.) and receive supplements in the form of grains and milk products (diluted milk, skimmed milk, milk powder, buttermilk, etc.) The final fattening of the animals takes place in ‘épinettes’ in a calm place protected from the light in order to avoid any agitation. After slaughter, the poultry are generally presented in a highly original manner and they have a collar of feathers at the base of the neck.

The farmer pays special attention to the ‘volailles fines’, in other words the capons, males born in early spring and castrated before 15 July, and the poulards, females that are older than chickens and have not entered the laying cycle. The final fattening period in ‘épinettes’ is longer for the fine poultry than for the chickens. The fine poultry usually receives appetising feed in the form of a mash. They are also treated very gently at slaughter and are plucked very carefully so as not to bruise the skin. When they are trimmed in the Bresse manner, which is obligatory for capons, the feet and wings are pressed against the body. The poultry is then wrapped in a solid cloth of plant origin, which is then sewn tightly closed by hand using a fine string, starting from the centre and continuing towards the head and the rump. In this way the bird is entirely wrapped up, except for the upper third of the neck, which is left unplucked. Once it has been unwrapped, the bird is of a characteristic cylindrical shape, with only the head and neck protruding.

5.2. Specificity of the product:

The animals are characterised by the fineness of their skeleton and skin texture, which indicates good development potential of the meat and fat. The number of fillets is related to length of their back.

‘Volaille de Bresse’ is of the ‘volaille grasse’ type, which means that it is longilineal and extremely fine. This indicates good fattening potential. This poultry is easily distinguished from the ‘poulet de grain’ type, which is larger, leaner and has less pronounced anaemic characteristics.

Once they have been cooked, which must be done skilfully in order to preserve all the organoleptic qualities, the birds typically have a high meat yield and their meat is extremely tender, intensely tasty and very juicy.

This poultry yields a remarkable number of choice pieces of meat, such as long and broad fillets and plump drumsticks. All of its bones are very fine and its head and neck are slight, meaning that there are very few non-edible pieces. Once it has been bled and plucked, the bird typically appears well-fleshed and fat, with no protrusions visible.

The meat is tender, it melts in the mouth, which is why it is called ‘moelleux’ at the Halles in Paris. The meat separates from the bones by itself, and the different muscles separate from each other extremely easily. The muscle fibres are so fine that they are barely distinguishable. There are practically no sinews and fasciae, and any that exist blend with the meat. In addition to the cover fat, which varies according to the amount of fat, there is fat also in the muscles of the birds. Each of the tiny muscular fibres is ‘coated’ in a delicate layer of fat, which, after cooking, gives the meat its exceptionally tender quality.

The poulard is plumper and heavier than the chicken and displays a special gustatory quality owing to its thicker fat cover. The capon, owing to its castration and long life, which promote a lengthy and regular seepage of fat into the muscle tissues, is of very high gastronomic quality. It is marketed exclusively in connection with the year-end festivities.

Finally, well-informed tasters recognise that the meat of the poultry has a special flavour highly prized by the most discerning gourmets.

These products, which are deeply rooted in the local cuisine, are prepared and promoted by the greatest chefs both in France and abroad.

5.3. Causal link between the geographical area and the quality or characteristics of the product (for PDO) or a specific quality, the reputation or other characteristic of the product (for PGI):

The mixed farming practised in Bresse as a direct result of the natural environment, which is favourable in particular to the growing of grass and maize, crops that require abundant rainfall and soils with important water reserves, is the determining factor at the origin of poultry rearing in Bresse. Maize, which is used to supplement other grains, has special nutritional qualities that have enabled the production of rich poultry on which the reputation of the poultry rests.

The producers have been able to preserve the purity of the breed and develop the poultry. Its hardiness has enabled it to live in this difficult environment, where it feeds partly on fauna found spontaneously in the area and partly on the substantial supplements from the geographical area (maize, milk) that are provided by the farmer during the growth and fattening of the animal.

In other words, the rearing is based on a strong tradition that combines a particularly protein-deficient feed regime, specific fattening methods and a high slaughter age, which allows the animals to reach complete physiological maturity.

The rearing method, the attention given to the care of the poultry and the fattening confer remarkable organoleptic characteristics on the cooked meat. The traditional practice of rolling the ‘volailles fines’ in a very tight cloth has the effect of making the fats seep into the muscles. The ethers absorbed by the fat and released during cooking react when combined with each other and impregnate the entire mass, giving the poultry its delicate flavour.

Many of these birds are sold in connection with four specific competitions called ‘Les glorieuses de Bresse’, the first of which was organised in Bourg-en-Bresse on 23 December 1862. Three other events take place in Pont-de-Vaux, Montrevel-en-Bresse and Louhans in the week before Christmas. They bring together over 1 000 wrapped-up birds, the most beautiful of which are placed before a panel for evaluation. Poultry dealers compete over the winning capons and poulards, which are sold to the highest bidder, and the best specimens are used to decorate the most shop beautiful windows and the fanciest tables on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve. These competitions show how proud farmers are of their products and how deeply attached they are to their rearing activities.

Reference to publication of the specification:

(Article 5, paragraph 7 of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 (3))

https://www.inao.gouv.fr/fichier/CDCVolailleDeBresse2011.pdf

(1) OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.

(2) OJ L 93, 31.3.2006, p. 12.

(3) See footnote 2.