EN Official Journal of the European Union C 444/25

Publication of an amendment application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2014/C 444/09)

This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1).

AMENDMENT APPLICATION

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006

on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs (2)

AMENDMENT APPLICATION IN ACCORDANCE WITH ARTICLE 9

‘JAMBON SEC DES ARDENNES’/‘NOIX DE JAMBON SEC DES ARDENNES’

EC No: FR-PGI-0105-01173 — 6.11.2013

PGI ( X ) PDO ( )

1. Sections of the specification affected by the amendments

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— Introduction of list of mandatory operations to be carried out in the geographical area;

— update of names and contact details of applicant group and inspection body;

2. Type of amendments

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3. Amendment(s)

3.1. Name of product

The name of the product has been changed to reflect the ‘name of the food’ specified in chapter 2 of the current specification. It is now: ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’/‘Noix de Jambon sec des Ardennes’.

3.2. Description of product

— Increase of the minimum duration of the production process from 270 to 360 days: this provision improves the quality of the product by allowing the ham, during maturation, to develop more of its fruity aroma and dried meat taste. Following the extension of the maturation period, the minimum weight of the ham at the end of the minimum duration of the production process has been reduced from 6 to 5,5 kg to take account of the loss of weight resulting from increased drying time.

— Deletion of on-the-bone grosse noix as a way of presenting ‘Noix de jambon sec des Ardennes.’ This is because the presence of the bone has proven problematic for cutting. Moreover, it is easier to bone the pieces before drying, which has led to this practice becoming widespread; the noix are now always boned before salting. Finally, the presence of bone is not necessary to achieve the organoleptic characteristics described in the specification.

— Withdrawal of chemical (nitrates and nitrites) and microbiological characteristics, which simply comply with the general rules.

— Deletion of parts of the description that are not objective in nature: ‘delicious’; ‘exquisite’; ‘and to enjoy all its charming flavours’.

— Addition of an exhaustive list of permitted forms of presentation: whole, whole boned, whole boned and rindless, boneless portion or sliced for the ham; whole, halved or sliced for the noix.

— Addition of whole boned rindless ham: this presentation is intended only for sale by the slice.

— The presentation ‘boneless portion’ replaces ‘halved or quartered’, which was not sufficiently precise and therefore difficult to check. In addition, given the variability of hams, the size of the portions was not homogeneous and therefore of little meaning for the PGI.

— The more precise term ‘moulded’ has replaced the term ‘pressed’. The two terms describe the same operation, which consists of pressing a ham or a noix in a mould to reduce the cavity left by boning and/or give it the desired shape.

— The possibility of slicing the cushion is also extended to the grosse noix. Both pieces are easy to slice as they contain no bone.

3.3. Proof of origin

— Due to the deletion of the requirement to use pork supplied from within the geographical area, the paragraphs relating to the traceability of pigs on farms and at the slaughterhouse have been removed.

— Owing to developments in national legislation and regulations, the text under the heading ‘Evidence that the product originates from the defined geographical area’ has been consolidated to bring together, in particular, provisions on declaration requirements and the keeping of registers for tracing the product and monitoring production conditions.

— Upon salting, the hams and grosses noix are indelibly marked (stamp on the rind or seal) with the week of production. For reasons of work organisation, in particular the cleaning of the premises, salting is carried out once a week. Therefore, the week number cross-referred to the date of salting and to the number of pieces recorded on the batch production slip makes it possible to check that the duration of the production process expressed in days has been respected.

— As there is no rind, it is not possible to individually mark cushions at the salting stage. In order to ensure traceability, each batch is clearly identified and accompanied by a production slip specifying the number of pieces put into production and the date of salting.

— At the end of the minimum duration of the production process at the earliest, the pieces are sorted. Those that do not meet the criteria set out in the chapter relating to the description of the product are declassified; the number is recorded on the batch production slip. Those that do comply are marked with a branding iron in the case of hams and grosses noix, with an individual mark in the case of cushions. The date of branding and the number of pieces are recorded.

— Inclusion of a table with the different stages of production and the corresponding traceability: this enables individual pieces to be monitored throughout the production process.

3.4. Method of production

— The carcasses of culled breeding animals are excluded as the products thus obtained would not meet the organoleptic characteristics of the PGI.

— Deletion of the requirement to use pigs supplied from the geographical area: this gives operators more flexibility and enables them to supply themselves with pigs whilst complying with the raw material characteristics described in the specifications. Accordingly, the provisions relating to the husbandry and slaughtering of pigs and the choice of carcasses (provisions relating to pig farrowing and fattening houses, to slaughterhouses and cutting plants, and to keeping the livestock register) have also been deleted.

— Deletion of the criterion relating to the feeding of pigs throughout the fattening process (minimum 75 % grains and pulses). This criterion is now common practice in the pig sector.

— Deletion of criterion of carcass weight (> 72 kg): these days, most operators just buy hams, as they have no use for whole carcasses. The weight of the trimmed ham (minimum 9,5 kg) is more meaningful for defining the technological pathway than the weight of the carcass from which it is taken;

— Definition of precise, objective criteria for selecting the raw materials used: — Introduction of the requirement to use meat that has not been frozen so as to ensure the quality of the finished product, which is made only from fresh hams; — Increase in the weight of the trimmed ham used from 9 to 9,5 kg: this makes it possible to take account of the extension of the drying period by 90 days; — Visual defects are assessed on the trimmed ham and no longer on the carcass. This is because some defects do not affect the ham, and others can be corrected during trimming without affecting the quality of the product (hair removal blemishes, for example); — Introduction of criteria of pH (5,5 to 6,2) and of meat colour (neither too pale nor too dark) based on the Japanese scale (score from 2 to 5) so as to ensure the same quality for all hams and noix de jambon; — Deletion of ratio of lean meat: this criterion does not seem relevant as it is assessed in relation to the carcass. The thickness of fat on the hams is a better criterion given that the ultimate aim is to produce dry salted hams: this thickness has been defined as greater than or equal to 10 mm; — Addition of characteristics of the noix following cutting and trimming, which are not set out in much detail in the current specification. — Weight of fresh noix de jambon after cutting and trimming: the minimum weight has been reduced from 1,5 to 1,2 kg for cushions and from 3,5 to 3 kg for grosses noix to take account of the anatomical proportions observed.

— Production of dried hams and dried noix de jambon: — The cutting of hams 10 cm from the top of the femur has been stipulated: this makes it possible to respect the anatomy of the hams and to make a smooth cut. This measure replaces the current wording, which defines the cut as ‘an inch or so from the chump’, as this wording is open to interpretation. Aside from this criterion of 10 cm, the choice of cutting method is left to the discretion of the pork butcher so as to take account of the shape of each piece. — Addition of the requirement to mark each piece with the week of salting and the year so as to meet the traceability requirements set out in the chapter on proof of origin. — Relaxation of the rules on the use of nitrates; their use is now optional; — Deletion of the list of flavourings that can be used in the preparation of hams and noix de jambon; this list was not exhaustive. The operator can use other flavourings provided that the characteristics of the finished product are still compliant. — Salting: to be carried out in several applications of dry salt. The current specification only permits salting by hand. Because of developments in production techniques, and at the time of the massage aimed at extracting residual blood, an initial salting may take place by means of the projection of dry salt by the massaging machines. Subsequent saltings are to be done by hand so as to adjust the quantity of salt and its distribution to each ham. The noix are salted in one go. This is therefore done exclusively by hand; — The rules on hygiene on premises for drying and maturing have been deleted, as they are covered by general regulations. — The durations and temperatures have been specified for the phases of rest — from 6 to 13 weeks at a temperature below 5 °C — and of drying/maturing — from 34 to 44 weeks at a temperature between 10 and 18 °C. The aim of these provisions is to ensure that the production process of ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes/Noix de jambon des Ardennes’ proceeds properly. — It is no longer stated that the duration of the production process is ‘left to the discretion of the producer’, as this did not constitute a requirement. Only the minimum durations remain. — The minimum duration of the production process of ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ is increased from 270 to 360 days. This change improves the quality of the product by allowing the ham, during maturation, to develop more of its fruity aroma and dried meat taste. — The traditional technique for boning hams, known as ‘goujage’, has been defined so as to provide a framework for this key step for the presentation of ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’/‘Noix de jambon sec des Ardennes’, the pieces of which do not need to be sewn back together once the bones have been removed. — Vacuum packaging or packaging in a protective atmosphere is made mandatory once the hams have been boned so as to remove any risk of microbial reproduction in the cavity left by the removal of the bones.

— Withdrawal of the provision relating to own checks by seasonal producers relating to the homogeneity of drying, salt content, smell and the quality of the fat. This provision belongs in the inspection plan.

3.5. Labelling

— Deletion of comments about the characteristics of the product, the inspection body and the consumer service so as to limit the requirements to the labelling rules concerning the protected geographical indication;

— Deletion of the requirement that labelling must be approved by the certifying body: this provision does not belong in the specification;

— Requirement to display the EU’s PGI logo to improve communication to the consumer.

3.6. National requirements

Introduction of a table with the main points to be checked, as required by national legislation.

3.7. Other

— The group now in charge of the PGI and making the amendment application is the association Les Charcuteries du Pays d’Ardennes. The information relating to the Ardennes de France group, which originated the request for registration, has therefore been deleted and replaced by the name and contact details of the group Les Charcuteries du Pays d’Ardennes.

— Introduction of list of mandatory operations to be carried out in the geographical area: preparation of pieces (trimming), salting, drying and boning (with pressing, where applicable).

— Inspection body: the group has chosen to change inspection body. The name and contact details of the inspection body A.d.F Certification are replaced by those of the new body designated by the group: Certipaq.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006

on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs (3)

‘JAMBON SEC DES ARDENNES’/‘NOIX DE JAMBON SEC DES ARDENNES’

EC No: FR-PGI-0105-01173 — 6.11.2013

PGI ( X ) PDO ( )

1. Name

‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’/‘Noix de Jambon sec des Ardennes’

2. Member State or Third Country

France

3. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1. Type of product

Class 1.2: Meat Products (cooked, salted, smoked, etc.)

3.2. Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

(a) Physical characteristics:

‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ and ‘Noix de jambon sec des Ardennes’ are dry-salted hams. The rubbing salt used contains spices, flavourings and sugar.

The minimum duration of the production process (from the time of salting) varies depending on the type of piece: 360 days for dry ham, 120 days for the grosse noix (made up of the noix (topside) and the sous-noix (fricandeau)) and 45 days for the cushion.

The minimum weight of the pieces at the end of the minimum duration of the production process is:

— ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ on the bone: 5,5 kg;

— ‘Noix de jambon sec des Ardennes’: 3 kg in the case of the grosse noix and 800 g in the case of the cushion.

The ham and the noix de jambon must be sufficiently dry and firm. They are not hard to the touch and do not appear bloated.

The fat of the ham and the noix is white in colour and firm in texture, and has a pleasant smell.

(b) Chemical characteristics

‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ and ‘Noix de jambon sec des Ardennes’ have a humidity rate for the fatless product of less than 65 %.

(c) Presentation of the product:

‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ is sold wrapped or unwrapped, moulded or unmoulded:

— whole: boned or not,

— whole, boned and rindless,

— in boneless portions;

— sliced.

‘Noix de jambon sec des Ardennes’ is sold wrapped or unwrapped, moulded or unmoulded:

— whole;

— halved;

— sliced.

3.3. Raw materials (for processed products only)

Hams from breeding boars and from sows are excluded from the production of ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ and ‘Noix de jambon sec des Ardennes’.

(a) Characteristics of fresh hams used:

The fresh ham has the following characteristics following cutting and trimming:

— not having been frozen;

— weight greater than 9,5 kg trimmed, without the ventral part of the belly or the trotter;

— smooth cut, without the ventral part of the belly, which must not exceed 10 cm beyond the top of the femur;

— the trotter detached at the joint, the hamstring intact, the shank not pierced and the bone of the chump partly removed. The ham can also be salted in its entirety, including the trotter;

— none of the following visible defects: hair removal blemishes, torn or burned rind, bruising, ecchymosis, fractures, abscesses, soiling from faeces or conveyor lubricant;

— be taken from meat of homogeneous colour, neither too pale nor too dark, with: 5,5 ≤ pH ≤ 6,2;

— colour of the meat used on the Japanese scale: from 2 to 5;

— coverage with firm, white fat;

— thickness of fat greater than or equal to 10 mm, measured in line with the top of the femur.

(b) Characteristics of fresh noix used:

‘Noix de jambon sec des Ardennes’ must keep their anatomical integrity. They are, with the exception of cushions, partially covered with rind. Grosses noix are boned before salting.

The fresh noix has the following characteristics following cutting and trimming:

— not having been frozen;

— depending on category: weight greater than 1,2 kg for cushions and greater than 4 kg for grosses noix;

— none of the following visible defects: hair removal blemishes, torn or burned rind, bruising, ecchymosis, fractures, abscesses, soiling from faeces or conveyor lubricant;

— be taken from meat of homogeneous colour, neither too pale nor too dark, with: 5,5 ≤ pH ≤ 6,2;

— coverage with firm, white fat in the case of grosses noix.

3.4. Feed (for products of animal origin only)

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3.5. Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

The production operations carried out in the geographical area are: acceptance of raw materials and preparation of pieces, salting, boning, and pressing.

3.6. Specific rules on slicing, grating, packaging, etc.

Boning (optional) is carried out in the following manner: the bone of the chump is removed by opening the rind of the shank as far as the joint, then detaching the bone of the femur without opening the ham (this latter action being known locally as goujage). The tibia, the fibula and the femur are removed simultaneously. The rind is closed again afterwards. The boned ham is then vacuum packed or packed in a protective atmosphere in order to preserve its organoleptic qualities.

3.7. Specific rules on labelling

The labelling of ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ and ‘Noix de jambon sec des Ardennes’ must include the following:

— the name of the PGI ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ or ‘Noix de jambon sec des Ardennes’;

— the European Union’s PGI logo;

— the duration of maturing.

In the event of non-prepacked sale, the name of the PGI ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ or ‘Noix de jambon sec des Ardennes’, along with the words ‘Protected geographical indication’, appear on signage or any other medium provided for the purpose.

4. Concise definition of the geographical area

The geographical area includes the whole department of the Ardennes.

5. Link with the geographical area

5.1. Specificity of the geographical area

(a) Natural factors

The northern part of the department of Ardennes, to the north of a line traced by the north east-south west depression of the Sormonne and Meuse valleys, is made up of the Ardenne massif, a huge stretch of slaty rock that peaks at 505 m in altitude. The southern part of the department is the northern edge of the chalky plain of Champagne. It is flatter and is dedicated to arable crops. Between these two entities, two areas stand out: Thiérache in the west and Argonne in the east. Numerous water courses weave their way through these undulating transitions.

The Ardennes department is located in an area of transition between a continental and a maritime climate. Rainfall is significant: up to 1 200 mm in Ardenne, and around 900 to 1 000 mm in Thiérache and Argonne. The average temperature in these regions is between 8 and 10 °C. It does not exceed 17 °C in summer and barely reaches 2 °C in winter.

The topography, due to the difference in altitude between the north (above 400 m) and the south (below (200 m) of the department, has a significant effect on the climate in the area. The acidic, slaty rock of the Ardennes massif produces a cooler, damper climate locally, which is accentuated by the significant forest cover. Finally, the numerous water courses have carved out valleys, each of which has its own microclimate. These are characterised by the formation of localised fog during the night (the department records up to 120 foggy days per year) and by wide temperature variations over the course of a day.

(b) Human factors

In the 19th century, pig rearing in the Ardennes was a family affair. In general, on farms, in the homes of farm workers, one or two pigs were fattened and consumed at home or sold locally. Victor Cayasse, in his book Folklore de Guignicourt sur Vence et de Faissault (1920), had this to say on the matter: ‘each family killed at least one pig per year and lived the whole year on its salted, dried meat.’ Jules Lefranc, in Choses et gens de chez nous (written around 1911), recounts the customs of the small village of Sainte Vaubourg at the time of his ancestors: ‘the salting tub was usually kept in the cellar […] The pieces, prepared beforehand, were taken down one by one to the salter, who carefully arranged them in layers, sprinkled them with pepper and spices and covered them in grey salt.[…] A month and a half later, the pig was desalted and […] hams and pieces of bacon were hung.’ Today’s meat curing workers have inherited their know-how from this tradition of having pigs in the local domestic economy. Currently, this know-how is still being shared between different generations of meat curing workers, who regularly meet together to improve their products.

This know-how continues to be expressed in the choice of pieces, the method of dry salting, and the manual coating of the hams while leaving a ‘window’ that allows slow drying to prevent crusting and to keep the ham tender.

5.2. Specificity of the product

‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ and ‘Noix de jambon sec des Ardennes’ develop a fruity aroma and a dried meat flavour during maturing. They have no smoky smell at all. They give off a subtle aroma of melon fruit and have a gentle, salty flavour. The smell of fat is very slight and not rancid.

Their excellent firmness makes it easy to cut them into thin slices. Their homogeneous texture is slightly springy and firm, not crispy. The jambon sec and noix de jambon sec are slightly juicy, pleasantly tender and melt in the mouth.

5.3. Causal link between the geographical area and the quality or characteristics of the product (for PDO) or a specific quality, the reputation or other characteristic of the product (for PGI)

The link with the geographical area of ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ and ‘Noix de jambon sec des Ardennes’ is based on its specific quality and its reputation.

The Ardennes department benefits from a damp climate thanks in particular to the significant rainfall and frequent fog. These conditions are favourable to the production of ham. The Ardennes climate provides three characteristics that are essential for the production of ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ and ‘Noix de jambon sec des Ardennes’: hygrometry, wind and suitable temperatures. These make drying and maturation slow and gradual. These storage conditions, together with the use of rubbing salt with added flavourings, spices and sugar, allow specific aromas and flavours to develop fully. The ham also becomes tender.

Historically, Ardennes families made hams for their own consumption thanks to the specific local climate. Salting was carried out during the colder months, as there was no refrigeration in those days. Hams are no longer dried in the kitchen or matured in the attic, but modern methods of cooling and hygrometric control make it possible to recreate and manage these conditions throughout the year.

The meat curing workers have been able to hold on to this ancestral knowledge of ham production.

The reputation of ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ dates from the 19th century. ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ is mentioned in several publications as a reference when it comes to meat curing. In 1866, a book on pork by Gustave Heuze explained that ‘the most highly regarded French hams are prepared in the departments of Basses Pyrenées, Bas Rhin, Haut Rhin, Meuse, Moselle, Ardennes and Vosges.’

As one might expect, ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ appears on menus for banquets and meals at the end of the 19th century. For example, it was served at a lunch given on 21 August 1898 for the Minister of Public Works at the inauguration of the Raucourt railway, and on 9 November 1924 at the inauguration of the new town hall in Nouzonville.

‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’, made largely for sale locally by a large number of pork butchers/meat curers in the department, gradually became an industry in its own right and started being sold by wholesalers, as an advertisement from 1929 attests.

A survey carried out by the Auvergne Association of Meat Curers in March 1994, with support from the EEC and the Ministry of Agriculture, shows that ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’ is known outside the department, despite the relatively modest scale of production. This survey showed that, when prompted, 23,4 % of respondents had heard of ‘Jambon sec des Ardennes’, putting it in fifth place out of nine hams mentioned.

Reference to publication of the specification

(Article 5(7) of Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 (4))

http://agriculture.gouv.fr/IMG/pdf/CDCIGPJambonsecdesArdennesetNoixdejambonsecdesArdennesV1_BO_cle86172f.pdf

(1) OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.

(2) OJ L 93, 31.3.2006, p. 12. Replaced by Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

(3) Replaced by Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

(4) See footnote 3.