EN Official Journal of the European Union C 47/11

Publication of an application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2016/C 47/09)

This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1).

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘SOUMAINTRAIN’

EU No: FR-PGI-0005-01298 — 29.12.2014

PDO ( ) PGI ( X )

1. Name

‘Soumaintrain’

2. Member State or Third Country

France

3. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1. Type of product

Class 1.3. Cheeses

3.2. Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Soumaintrain’ is a soft cheese with a washed rind. Predominantly lactic, it is made exclusively from whole cow’s milk. With a ripening period of 21 days, ‘Soumaintrain’ has the following characteristics:

— The rind ranges from ivory-yellow to ochre in colour; slightly moist, it may be wrinkled, possibly bearing the imprint of draining-racks. A slight bloom on the surface is permitted.

— The cheese itself is soft, smooth, slightly grainy and ivory-white in colour. At this stage, proteolysis must occur under the rind. The cheese has a dry matter content of at least 40 %, with the dry matter having a fat content of at least 48 %.

— An animal or plant aroma.

— A lactic taste giving the cheese an acidic note, together with a noticeable ‘refined’ sourness from compounds created by proteolysis, without an unpleasant after-taste. There are hints of animal- or plant-like aromas such as mushroom, humus, hay or straw, depending on the season, which develop during ripening. The aromas have a lasting effect in the mouth.

‘Soumaintrain’ takes the shape of a flat cylinder measuring between 90 mm to 130 mm across. It weighs between 180 g and 600 g.

The height of the cheeses is in proportion to their diameter, representing between 25 % and 35 % thereof.

3.3. Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

A minimum of 75 % of the dry food in the diets of dairy and dry cows must come from the geographical area.

The proportion of grass in the feed of productive dairy cows must be at least 30 % of the dry matter of coarse fodder over a year.

Grazing areas for productive dairy cows provide 1 200 square metres per cow. Grazing of productive dairy cows lasts at least five months from the time that they are put out to grass. Supplementary feeding with grass is permitted.

The annual average proportion of supplements in the feed of dairy cows, whether producing or dry, is less than 30 % of dry matter in the diet over all.

These provisions are intended to ensure that grass is used in the feed as it contributes to the development of the characteristic aromas of ‘Soumaintrain’ during ripening.

The milk used in the production of ‘Soumaintrain’ is whole cow’s milk. It is collected within a maximum period of 48 hours of the first milking. Fats and proteins are neither added nor removed. Concentrating the milk by partially removing the water content before coagulation is not permitted.

The milk used to make ‘Soumaintrain’ is produced in the geographical area. The area comprises a very dense hydrological network meaning that it is largely composed of wet valleys that are prone to flooding. It provides a favourable environment for grass-growing as it also benefits from regular rainfall and clay soils. This grass is grazed by dairy cows for at least five months a year. It contributes to the characteristics of ‘Soumaintrain’, in particular its plant-like aromas. These develop throughout the ripening process, according to the season.

3.4. Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

The milk is produced and the cheese made and ripened in the geographical area.

3.5. Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

3.6. Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

In addition to the regulatory requirements, the label of every cheese includes:

— the name ‘Soumaintrain’;

— its specific production unit.

4. Concise definition of the geographical area

The geographical area of ‘Soumaintrain’ corresponds to the area covered by the following administrative entities:

Department of Aube

Municipalities: Clérey, Fresnoy-le-Château, Montreuil-sur-Barse.

Cantons: Bar-sur-Seine, Chaource, Ervy-le-Châtel; with the following municipalities excepted: Balnot-la-Grange, Bar-sur-Seine, Bourguignons, Buxeuil, Chaserey, Coussegrey, Eaux-Puiseaux, Étourvy, Jully-sur-Sarce, Maisons-lès-Chaource, Merrey-sur-Arce, Pargues, Villemorien, Ville-sur-Arce, Villiers-le-Bois, Villiers-sous-Praslin, Vosnon, Vougrey.

Department of Côte-d’Or

Municipalities: Bard-lès-Époisses, Blancey, Brochon, Chailly-sur-Armançon, Chamboeuf, Chambolle-Musigny, Corrombles, Curley, Éguilly, Époisses, Genay, Gevrey-Chambertin, Gilly-lès-Cîteaux, Jeux-lès-Bard, Lantilly, Martrois, Massingy-lès-Semur, Millery, Mont-Saint-Jean, Morey-Saint-Denis, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Quemigny-Poisot, Saint-Philibert, Semezanges, Semur-en-Auxois, Torcy-et-Pouligny, Trouhaut, Turcey, Vic-de-Chassenay, Villars-et-Villenotte, Villotte-Saint-Seine.

Cantons: Sombernon, Montbard, Venarey-les-Laumes, Vitteaux; with the following municipalities excepted: Ancey, Arcey, Baulme-la-Roche, Blaisy-Haut, Bussy-le-Grand, Charny, Corpoyer-la-Chapelle, Fain-lès-Moutiers, Frôlois, Lucenay-le-Duc, Mâlain, Montoillot, Moutiers-Saint-Jean, Prâlon, Sainte-Marie-sur-Ouche, Saint-Jean-de-Boeuf, Saint-Thibault, Saint-Victor-sur-Ouche, Savigny-sous-Mâlain, Source-Seine, Touillon.

Department of Yonne

Municipalities: Auxerre, Bleigny-le-Carreau, Brienon-sur-Armançon, Chevannes, Esnon, Mercy, Monéteau, Venoy.

Cantons: Ligny-le-Châtel, Saint-Florentin, Seignelay, Auxerre-Sud-Ouest, Migennes, Auxerre-Nord, Ancy-le-Franc, Cruzy-le-Châtel, Flogny-la-Chapelle, Tonnerre; with the following municipalities excepted: Béru, La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne, Collan, Épineuil, Fleys, Maligny, Molosmes, Villy, Viviers.

5. Link with the geographical area

The geographical area is a region of grassland based on wet valleys: Armance and Armançon, Yonne and Serein, Seine where it crosses the wetlands of Champagne, Brenne, Oze and Ozerain. It is characterised by natural factors favourable to dairy holdings on farmland unsuitable for other types of agricultural activity.

With regard to geology, the soils are naturally diverse but clay predominates. They are loose and impermeable, and most often covered by natural grasslands that cannot be cultivated by machine.

In terms of water, the geographical area has a very dense hydrological network set among soft, impermeable rocks. This is responsible for the topography that is largely flat with little undulation, as well as the susceptibility of the land to flooding between autumn and spring.

The maritime climate suffers to a limited extent from continental influences. Temperatures are somewhat cool with an annual average that barely exceeds 10 °C. Rainfall is regular, between 700 and 800 mm, and drought is not inevitable in summer.

The historic birthplace of ‘Soumaintrain’ is located in the far north of Bourgogne where it borders the Department of Aube. It is characterised by know-how dating back to the Middle Ages regarding production of soft, predominantly lactic cheeses with washed rinds.

It is there that the earliest evidence can be found of the production of ripened cheese in the twelfth century, according to the writings of Henri Auclerc (1887-1968), a priest in Vergigny. Auclerc made the link between cheese-making and the history of the abbey in Pontigny, which was founded 1117. He asserted that: ‘the Cistercian monks demanded payment of farm rents in ripened cheese’.

‘Soumaintrain’ and its traditional production method are described numerous times in nineteenth century literature. For example, in his work ‘La Bonne Ménagère Agricole’ (Auxerre, tenth edition, 1889) Louis-Eugène Bérillon describes the manufacturing process of retired teacher Mr Couturot: ‘As soon as the milk is taken from the cow’s udder […] it is renneted […] when the renneted milk is fully curdled, it is poured into cylindrical moulds, open at both ends, and placed on small osier mats […] where it drains fully. It is turned over twice a day for two days […] when it is fully set, it is turned out, salted on both sides, then washed with very clean fresh water every day until the outside takes on an attractive yellow colour’.

Improvements to communications in the nineteenth century encouraged specialisation in farming and the development of livestock-rearing. Thus it became possible to develop the sale of cheeses. Since the first half of the twentieth century, the historic area of production of ‘Soumaintrain’ has been part of a larger soft cheese-producing region, as affirmed by ‘La France Fromagère’ by Claire Delfosse, published in 1993.

The lactic character of the soft cheeses of the area and their specific ripening process involving washing of the rind are also mentioned in the Inventory of the Culinary Heritage of France, in the volume on Bourgogne (1993).

Production of ‘Soumaintrain’ extends beyond its historic birthplace, occurring in both farms and dairies. ‘Soumaintrain’ therefore benefits from the technical skills of dairies that have fully mastered the production of soft cheeses with washed rinds made from fresh curd. These dairies are also involved in marketing.

In addition to the quality of its aromas, the unique characteristics of ‘Soumaintrain’ lie in its consistency, which is soft, ivory-white in colour, smooth and slightly granular, as well as its washed rind which ranges from ivory-yellow to ochre and is slightly moist.

Being made from fresh curd gives it the special characteristic of retaining its particular, and very distinctive, lactic smell and taste, even after ripening.

The link with the geographical area of ‘Soumaintrain’ is based on its established quality and reputation.

The wet valley grasslands enjoy a damp climate and clay soils favourable to grass. Other areas are more favourable to cereal growing, which also represent one of the components of animal fodder. The natural conditions of the geographical area therefore enable the production of varied feed that is suitable for the needs of dairy cattle.

Use of grass in feeding, especially pasturage for a minimum of five months per year, helps to develop the specific aromas of ‘Soumaintrain’ during ripening. ‘Soumaintrain’ therefore develops an intense and lasting animal-like aroma as well as vegetable aromas such as mushroom, humus, hay and straw, depending on the season. These contribute to the complexity of taste.

The geographical area has traditionally been favourable to the establishment and maintenance of farms that are mainly dairy or mixed crop and livestock. This has allowed ‘Soumaintrain’ to become a traditional local cheese.

The development of the specific technique for washed-rind ripening is well suited to the climatic conditions of the geographical area. Historically, ripening took place in the open air. Moisture from the air led to the development of undesirable surface flora. Washing the cheeses prevented this flora. This technique is still in use. It constitutes the main defining characteristic of ‘Soumaintrain’ and explains the moistness of the rind, as well as the colour that ranges from ivory to a paler yellow than that of the cheeses from neighbouring areas. It is the regular removal of the surface flora that gives the cheese its pale colour. These days, the rind is washed at least four times during the ripening phase. This practice also makes it possible to limit the proteolytic activity of the surface flora.

Nevertheless, acid production as a result of milk curdling, and the intervals between rind-washing, allow a certain level of proteolysis in the cheese beneath the rind, which does not reach as far as the centre of the cheese. The same factors produce a slow centripetal ripening beneath the active surface flora which gives ‘Soumaintrain’ its intense aromas and characteristic refined bitter after-taste. Natural drainage, drying and dry-salting are key elements in this technical process.

Furthermore the smooth texture of ‘Soumaintrain’ is due to careful handling throughout the production process. P. Larue, agricultural specialist and author of the 1911 work ‘Le fromage Soumaintrain et la vallée de l’Armance’, called ‘Soumaintrain’ a ‘not very democratic cheese’ on account of the care needed and the very frequent handling required.

‘Soumaintrain’ has a long-held reputation, as shown in the work ‘La Bonne Ménagère Agricole’ by Louis-Eugéne Bérillon (Auxerre, tenth edition, 1889). The author describes ‘Soumaintrain’ as ‘the finest cheese in the land’.

This reputation was sustained locally and developed as a result of continued use of the name since the nineteenth century by farmers who produced it and cheese maturers who sold the cheese to surrounding areas of consumption. Another factor was the promotion of the denomination alongside the recognised names of other cheeses in the same production sector. Since 1909, ‘Soumaintrain’ has appeared as ‘an excellent small cheese, of local or limited consumption’ in the ‘Guide du fromage’ by Parisian master cheese maturer Androuet (Stock, 1971, in French and English). Since 1984, a ‘Soumaintrain’ and foie gras tour has been organised in October every year in the historic birth-place of ‘Soumaintrain’ production.

There is a description of ‘Soumaintrain’ in the Bourgogne edition of the ‘L’inventaire du patrimoine culinaire français’ (Albin Michel/CNAC, 1993).

Numerous restaurateurs offer ‘Soumaintrain’ as part of their regional cheese plate or include it in recipes for cheese dishes. Examples of these include the recipes developed by the organisation ‘Amicale des cuisiniers de Côte d’Or’ in 2012. The well-established defining characteristics of ‘Soumaintrain’ are also celebrated in national professional publications, as shown by the articles that appeared between 2013 and 2015 in ‘Profession fromager’ and ‘Courrier du Fromager’. In the same way, the reputation of ‘Soumaintrain’ has been cemented by the awards received during the Concours Général Agricole.

Reference to publication of the specification

(the second subparagraph of Article 6(1) of the Regulation)

https://www.inao.gouv.fr/fichier/CDCSoumaintrain.pdf

(1) OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.