Publication of an application for approval of amendments, which are not minor, to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2020/C 18/09)

This publication confers the right to oppose the amendment application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.

APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF NON-MINOR AMENDMENTS TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION FOR A PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN OR PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION

Application for approval of amendments in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012

‘JAMBON DE BAYONNE’

EU No: PGI-FR-00031-AM01 — 11.9.2018

PDO ( ) PGI (X)

1. Applicant group and legitimate interest

Consortium du Jambon de Bayonne Route de Samadet 64 410 Arzacq FRANCE Tel. +33 559044935 Fax +33 559044939 Email: jambondebayonne@jambon-de-bayonne.com

Membership: Producers/processors

2. Member State or third country

France

3. Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)

☐ Name of product

☒ Description of product

☒ Geographical area

☒ Proof of origin

☒ Method of production

☒ Link

☒ Labelling

☒ Other: data update, inspection bodies, national requirements, annexes

4. Type of amendment(s)

☒ Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI not to be qualified as minor within the meaning of the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012

☐ Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI for which a Single Document (or equivalent) has not been published and which cannot be qualified as minor within the meaning of the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012

5. Amendment(s)

5.1. Heading ‘Description of product’

Chemical characteristics

‘Bayonne ham is a slightly salty, dried product. The sodium chloride content analysed on the rump half is less than or equal to 7,5 %. Bayonne ham is a relatively dry, yet tender, product. It has an average dry matter content of 47 %. Bayonne ham is a product with low fat content. The average fat content is approximately 6 %. The total residual level of soluble sugars is less than or equal to 0,5 %. It contains very low levels of nitrites and nitrates. The nitrate content may not exceed 250 mg/kg and the nitrite content may not exceed 50 mg/kg.’

All characteristics have been reproduced in the draft specification as shown below with the exception of the paragraph on the nitrite and nitrate content which was removed as it corresponds to the legal requirements on authorised nitrate and nitrite levels. This amendment to the specification has no effect on the Single Document.

‘Bayonne ham is a slightly salty, dried product. The sodium chloride content analysed on the rump half is less than or equal to 7,5 %. Bayonne ham is a relatively dry, yet tender, product. It has an average dry matter content of 47 %. Bayonne ham is a product with low fat content. The average fat content is approximately 6 %. The total residual level of soluble sugars is less than or equal to 0,5 %.’

The section on microbiological characteristics has been removed:

‘Microbiological characteristics ‘Bayonne ham must comply with the standards laid down in the Ministerial Order of 21 December 1979 as regards raw, salted and/or dry cured meat products: — Coliforms at 44 °C m = 1 000 (bacteria per gram) — Coagulase-positive staphylococci m = 500 (bacteria per gram) — Sulphite-reducing anaerobes m = 50 (bacteria per gram) — Salmonella Salmonella absence in 25 grams’ ’

All of the microbiological characteristics which have been deleted are covered by legislation and are not specific to the ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI. This amendment to the specification has no effect on the Single Document.

The Single Document (or ‘summary sheet’ as it was at the time of registering the PGI) has been amended in order to expand the information provided under the heading ‘Description of product’.

The section in the summary sheet which included the following:

‘Bayonne ham is a leg of pork, trimmed, salted using dry salt from the Adour basin and dried in that area for at least seven months. Throughout the period of maturing and curing, the ham develops its aroma and becomes tender. When sliced thinly, it melts in the mouth and has a delicate and only slightly salty taste.’

has been supplemented as follows in the Single Document:

‘“Jambon de Bayonne” is a leg of pork, salted using dry salt from the Adour basin and dried in that area for at least seven months. — Appearance: — it has a rounded shape on the outside; — the rind has a uniform colour, is stretched at the shank and free of any bruising; — the ham is not hard to the touch and does not appear bloated; — the fat is pure in colour, firm, with a pleasant aroma; — the outer muscle area does not have a crust. — Presentation of the product: After ageing-curing, hams may be: — on the bone; uncovered or packaged; — boned, rindless, trimmed, pressed, moulded and packaged; — whole, halved or quartered; — sliced into single units. — Chemical characteristics “Jambon de Bayonne” PGI is a slightly salty, dried product. The sodium chloride content analysed on the rump half is less than or equal to 7,5 %. “Jambon de Bayonne” PGI is a relatively dry, yet tender, product. It has an average dry matter content of 47 %. “Jambon de Bayonne” PGI is a product with low fat content. The average fat content is approximately 6 %. The total residual level of soluble sugars is less than or equal to 0,5 %. — Organoleptic characteristics Throughout the different stages in the ageing process, “Jambon de Bayonne” develops its aroma and becomes tender. When sliced thinly, it melts in the mouth and has a delicate and only slightly salty taste, with a pronounced and very typical aroma due to its long ageing and curing time. The muscle has a characteristically consistent pink-red colour. The fat is white, pure, hard, is not greasy and does not have a rancid smell. Saltiness and moisture is spread evenly throughout slices of the ham.’

5.2. Heading ‘Definition of the geographical area’

Definition of the area in which pigs are bred.

— Origin restrictions applicable to raw materials

Addition of the department of Tarn to the list of departments where pigs are bred:

Tarn has been added to the list of departments where the raw material, i.e. pigs, may come from. The purpose of this cosmetic change is to correct an error. As shown in the map featured in the specification, Tarn is fully part of the area in which pigs are bred. However, the name of the department was omitted from the list.

Furthermore, the summary sheet clearly states that raw material may be sourced from the entire administrative region of Midi-Pyrénées, part of which includes the department of Tarn.

This amendment has been made to the specification and also to Part 3.3 of the Single Document ‘Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)’. It does not, however, change the definition of the area.

5.3. Heading ‘Evidence that the product originates from the defined geographical area’

The text ‘Rules put in place by businesses in the Bayonne ham sector concerning the link with the geographical origin are aimed at:

— identifying throughout the entire sector the parts sourced from pigs reared according to the specific conditions applied in the defined production area,

— identifying ham which is salted, dried and cured according to the specific methods applied in the defined processing area within the Adour basin.’

is replaced by the following:

‘Rules put in place by businesses in the Bayonne ham sector concerning traceability and the link with the geographical origin are aimed at:

— identifying throughout the entire sector the parts sourced from pigs reared according to the specific conditions applied in the defined production area,

— identifying ham from the point it is salted until it is cured and packaged, according to the specific methods applied in the defined processing area within the Adour basin.’

This amendment ensures and improves traceability and the link with the geographical area. Furthermore, with pre-slicing and packaging now added as stages which must be carried out in the geographical area — as explained under the heading ‘Method of production’ — the corresponding traceability has been added to this section in order to guarantee proof of origin during these stages where it is possible for traceability to be lost.

The text:

‘Hams sold after they have been deboned, trimmed or sliced, lose their origin markings. Labels must include the approval number of the processing facility. Such facilities keep records of outgoing production according to presentation type (volumes shipped). If the slicing facility differs from the drying facility, the latter must also keep a record of incoming (volume and origin of hams delivered) and outgoing production.’

has been replaced by:

‘Hams sold after they have been deboned, trimmed or sliced, lose their origin markings. Labels must include the approval number of the processing facility and the batch number and/or salting date, thereby ensuring traceability right back to the preparation stage. Such facilities keep records of outgoing production according to presentation type (volumes shipped). If the pre-slicing facility differs from the drying facility, the latter must maintain a batch tracking sheet and keep a record of incoming (volume and origin of hams delivered) and outgoing production.’

The traceability framework (Figure 1) has been amended as follows:

Addition of ‘Batch tracking sheets, downgrade register, pre-slicing sheets, outgoing ham shipment records’ in order to improve record-keeping and traceability.

The words ‘Salting, drying, shipment — slicing — authorised meat curer’ have been supplemented by the following: ‘Salting, drying, deboning, pre-slicing and packaging, shipment, meat curer — authorised pre-slicing facility’. These additions are in line with the request to include slicing and packaging in the geographical area of the PGI.

The following has been added: ‘Once these steps are complete, organoleptic assessments are carried out by random sampling, the purpose of which is to ensure that the organoleptic characteristics of the product are maintained.’

This section has been supplemented to enforce organoleptic assessments to be carried out by random sampling once these steps are complete so as to ensure that the organoleptic characteristics of the product are maintained.

In this way, traceability at all stages in the production of ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI will be improved. This will ensure bottom-up and top-down traceability and eliminate the risk of traceability being lost.

The Single Document is not affected by this amendment (the Single Document was drawn up to replace the current summary sheet).

5.4. Heading ‘Method of production’

A description of the entire production process prior to pre-slicing, a description of the pre-slicing stage and a description of the packaging of the pre-sliced product have been added to this section as it has been requested that these stages be henceforth carried out, as a requirement, in the geographical area of ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI.

The following has been added:

‘5.2.9. Steps prior to pre-slicing (deboning, balancing, hardening), pre-slicing and packaging’ ‘Pre-slicing consists of cutting boned hams into pieces, portions or slices. This step is an extension of the curing process for which operators select hams suited to pre-slicing. 5.2.9.1. — Prior steps There are a number of steps which must be carried out prior to pre-slicing which together guarantee the end quality of the product. These steps are detailed below. — Deboning All hams intended for pre-slicing are deboned in advance in accordance with their weight, fat thickness and curing time. Deboning consists of cutting through the shank, freeing the top of the femur, detaching the femur without opening the ham (known as ‘gougeage’) and then removing the entire tibia-fibula-femur. During this process, operators check that defects are not present in the ham in terms of its smell or colour which would suggest a curing problem (bacterial growth or excessive proteolysis — issues often linked to a pocket of residual moisture). If appropriate, operators will remove any hams which do not conform. Hams may then be trimmed, before being pressed and moulded so that uniform slices can be obtained. — Balancing After the deboning process in which the muscles are detached, a period of at least one week is allowed for so that the muscle fibres properly reform, a process induced naturally by means of proteins. — Hardening Hams are then hardened. This stage is carried out in an environment in which the temperature may not fall below – 14 °C. The aim of this stage is to ensure that slices hold together and can be cleanly cut during pre-slicing. 5.2.9.2. ‘Pre-slicing and packaging’ Pre-slicing and packaging must be carried out in the geographical area. Section 5.2.9.2 does not apply to slicing and packaging carried out with a view to immediate sale within the meaning of Article 2(2)(e) of Regulation (EU) No 1169/2011. Once the hams have hardened, slicers pre-slice the ham. During this stage they check to make sure that there are no defects in any slices or pieces, this being impossible when the hams are still whole. Defects include incomplete slices, bruising, blood spots, presence of the jugular, dark veins or a varying colour. Slices with defects are not used. As pre-sliced ham is delicate, it is vital that any oxidation is avoided. This is done by limiting contact with air which otherwise can adversely affect the quality of the fat and the colour of the ham slices. Moreover, it is essential that packaging occurs within one hour of pre-slicing. There is a long tradition of operators in the Adour basin with specific know-how, their experience enabling them to carry out all production stages whilst making the necessary selection and maintaining the intrinsic qualities of Bayonne ham. After pre-slicing, the organoleptic criteria are checked by tasters in the geographical area where the product is processed. Tasters are trained, experienced and have perfect knowledge of the product, enabling them to confirm if the product complies with the characteristics of ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI according to a table of descriptors relating to the appearance, texture, smell and taste of the product. ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ is predominantly consumed in a pre-sliced format. All steps taken to produce it in this format must be mastered in order to ensure ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ has the characteristics which are sought and appreciated by consumers, in particular its tenderness. Deboning, balancing, hardening, pre-slicing and packaging are essential steps in preserving the quality and, therefore, the reputation of ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI. It is vital for these processes to be carried out in the geographical area by operators with the necessary know-how in order to guard against the risk of compromising the quality guarantee and placing products on the market which do not comply with the organoleptic criteria associated with ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI, thereby damaging the reputation of the product. Checks during these stages are essential for verifying that products comply at every stage. It is vital for these stages to be carried out in the geographical area in order to safeguard the quality, the specific characteristics of ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI acquired during production, and the reputation of the product which operators collectively guarantee. Furthermore, as the identification markings applied to the rind of the ham during the different production stages are removed when the product is sliced and packaged, the risk of losing traceability, and thus the risk of fraud, is limited by carrying out all such stages in the geographical area, together with the inspection system for verifying completion of those stages. Other than guaranteeing quality and inspections, the authenticity and traceability of the product is guaranteed during this crucial stage by carrying out the deboning, balancing, hardening, pre-slicing and packaging stages in the geographical area. As is clear from the information presented above, all preparation and pre-slicing/packaging steps involved in producing ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ are based on complex technical rules and specific know-how from the time the fresh ham is salted until the finished product is pre-sliced and packaged. Consequently, the completion of these stages at appropriate facilities situated in the geographical area is fundamental to — maintaining the quality characteristics, — guaranteeing the authenticity of the product, — ensuring that one of the most widespread ways of presenting the product on the market is thoroughly inspected. The fact that these production stages are completed in the geographical area is a guarantee of the reputation of ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI, which is the culmination of work carried out by all operators in the sector (farmers, slaughterhouses, meat curers, slicers, etc.).’ This amendment to the specification affects Section 3.5 of the Single Document ‘Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to’.

5.5. Link:

The section ‘Link with the geographical area’ has been shortened and restructured to better highlight the specific characteristics of the geographical area, the specificities of the product and the causal link. The way the section is presented has therefore been changed. However, the link between the product and geographical area remains the same.

Given the new wording, the section of the Single Document under the heading ‘Link with the geographical area’ has been amended in order to comply as best as possible with the 2 500-word limit for Single Documents, as laid down in Article 6 of Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) No 668/2014, whilst providing more clarity than is currently found in the summary sheet (now replaced by the Single Document).

The link with the geographical area of ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI is still based on its specific quality and reputation.

5.6. Heading ‘Labelling’

The following has been deleted:

‘Other than following the legislation in force, the Consortium du Jambon de Bayonne draws up its own rules on labelling which businesses are required to comply with:

(1) Compulsory information

(2) Format and position of the logo’

This amendment to the specification has no effect on the Single Document.

The words:

‘It requires that the labelling of any “Jambon de Bayonne”, regardless of the form it is presented in, includes as a minimum the following information:’

have been replaced by:

‘In addition to the compulsory information provided for by legislation on the labelling and presentation of foodstuffs, labelling must include:’

This rewording has been introduced in order to comply with wording which has been agreed nationally.

The words ‘The name under which the product is sold, i.e. “Jambon de Bayonne” must be stated in French, possibly accompanied by a translation where products are intended for export’ have been deleted as they are redundant based on current legislation.

The image of the ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ logo has been deleted. However, the description of it has been maintained. The logo may regularly undergo slight modification, whilst retaining the same format (i.e. the word ‘Bayonne’ accompanied by a red Basque cross) so that consumers are able to quickly identify the product.

This amendment to the specification affects the Single Document as the image of the specific ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI logo has been deleted.

5.7. Heading ‘Other’

— Updated contact details

The contact details of the competent authority of the Member State and applicant group have been updated.

This amendment to the specification has no effect on the Single Document.

— Inspection bodies

In accordance with national guidelines aimed at harmonising the way specifications are drafted, the name and contact details of the certifying body have been deleted. Under this heading, the contact details of the authorities responsible for national inspections are now provided, i.e. the National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO) and the Directorate-General for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Prevention (DGCCRF). The name and contact details of the certifying body can now be consulted on the website of the INAO and the European Commission’s database.

This amendment to the specification has no effect on the Single Document.

— National requirements

The main aspects which must be inspected have been added to the section on national requirements, in accordance with current national legislation.

This amendment to the specification has no effect on the Single Document.

— Annexes to the specification

The annexes have been deleted as their content has either been incorporated into the specification or is not what is expected from a specification (organisation of the sector, comparison with other PDO or PGI hams, etc.) These are cosmetic changes which do not affect the provisions in force.

This amendment to the specification has no effect on the Single Document.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘JAMBON DE BAYONNE’

EU No: PGI-FR-00031-AM01 — 11.9.2018

PDO () PGI (X)

1. Name(s)

‘Jambon de Bayonne’

2. Member State or third country

France

3. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1. Type of product

Class 1.2. Meat products (cooked, salted, smoked, etc.)

3.2. Description of product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Jambon de Bayonne’ is a leg of pork, salted using dry salt from the Adour basin and dried in that area for at least seven months.

— Appearance

— it has a rounded shape on the outside;

— the rind has a uniform colour, is stretched at the shank and free of any bruising;

— the ham is not hard to the touch and does not appear bloated;

— the fat is pure in colour, firm, with a pleasant aroma;

— the outer muscle area does not have a crust.

— Presentation of the product

After ageing-curing, hams may be:

— on the bone: uncovered or packaged;

— boned, rindless, trimmed, pressed, moulded and packaged;

— whole, halved or quartered;

— sliced into single units.

— Chemical characteristics

‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI is a slightly salty, dried product. The sodium chloride content analysed on the rump half is less than or equal to 7,5 %.

‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI is a relatively dry, yet tender, product. It has an average dry matter content of 47 %.

‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI is a product with low fat content. The average fat content is approximately 6 %.

The total residual level of soluble sugars is less than or equal to 0,5 %.

— Organoleptic characteristics

Throughout the different stages in the ageing process, ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI develops its aroma and becomes tender. When sliced thinly, it melts in the mouth and has a delicate and only slightly salty taste, with a pronounced and very typical aroma due to its long ageing and curing time.

The muscle has a characteristically consistent pink-red colour.

The fat is white, pure, hard, is not greasy and does not have a rancid smell.

Saltiness and moisture is spread evenly throughout slices of the ham.

3.3. Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

Carcasses which may be used to produce ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI are those of male and female pigs bred for their meat. The following animal types may not be used: males with cryptorchidism, males castrated of a single testicle, hermaphrodites, uncastrated males and cull sows.

Pigs are fattened using feed containing at least 60 % cereals, cereal-based products and peas, and a minimum of 50 % cereals and cereal-based products.

The feed ration given to pigs when fattened contains less than 1,9 % linoleic acid as a proportion of dry matter.

The area in which pigs bred for their meat may be reared and slaughtered spans the following departments in the south-west of France: Ariège, Aude, Aveyron, Cantal, Charente, Charente-Maritime, Corrèze, Dordogne, Haute-Garonne, Gers, Gironde, Landes, Lot, Lot-et-Garonne, Pyrénées-Atlantiques, Hautes-Pyrénées, Pyrénées-Orientales, Deux-Sèvres, Tarn, Tarn-et-Garonne, Vienne, Haute-Vienne.

The salt used is sourced from the Adour basin.

3.4. Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

All production stages from the point the fresh ham is placed in salt until it is deboned take place in the geographical area.

3.5. Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI is pre-sliced and packaged in the geographical area of the product.

Pre-slicing consists of cutting boned hams into pieces, portions or slices.

This restriction as regards the geographical area does not apply to slicing and packaging carried out with a view to immediate sale within the meaning of Article 2(2)(e) of Regulation (EU) No 1169/2011.

The following steps are carried out prior to this:

— deboning, during which operators check that defects are not present in the ham in terms of its smell or colour,

— balancing, which lasts a minimum of one week,

— hardening, in an environment in which the temperature may not fall below – 14 °C.

Pre-slicing is an extension of the curing process and requires experience and know-how as it has a direct effect on the quality of the product.

All hams intended for pre-slicing are deboned in accordance with their weight, fat thickness and curing time.

There is a long tradition of operators in the Adour basin with specific know-how. Their experience enables them to slice this delicate product whilst preserving its taste and texture. They do so whilst carrying out a thorough visual inspection of the product to make sure that slices are free of defects (blood spots, jugular, varying colour, etc.), these being impossible to see before the product is sliced.

Pre-sliced ham is a delicate product. It is vital that any oxidation is avoided by limiting contact with air which otherwise can adversely affect the quality of the fat and the colour of the ham slices. Packaging must therefore occur within one hour of pre-slicing.

The intrinsic qualities of the product are therefore maintained by carrying out these steps in the geographical area.

‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI identification markings which are applied to the rind during the various production stages are removed when the product is pre-sliced. The risk of losing traceability, and thus the risk of fraud, is limited by carrying out the deboning, pre-slicing and packaging stages in the geographical area.

For these reasons, pre-slicing and packaging processes – which require special know-how – must take place at appropriate facilities located in the geographical area of the protected geographical indication so as to guarantee the full quality and authenticity of the product.

3.6. Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

The following must be stated on the labelling:

— ‘dried and cured in the Adour basin’,

— ‘certified by’ followed by the name and address of the certifying body,

— the ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ logo, comprising the word ‘BAYONNE’ and a red Basque cross.

4. Concise definition of the geographical area

The geographical area of the PGI is the Adour basin. It comprises the department of Pyrénées-Atlantiques, and

— in the department of Gers: the canton of Adour-Gersoise, and the communes of Beaumarchés, Lupiac, Couloumé-Mondebat, Galiax, Izotges, Jû-Belloc, Lasserade, Plaisance, Préchac-sur-Adour, Saint-Aunix-Lengros, Saint-Pierre-d’Aubézies, Tasque and Tieste-Uragnoux;

— in the department of Landes: the cantons of Coteau de Chalosse, Dax 1, Dax 2, Le Pays tyrossais, Marensin-Sud, Orthe et Arrigans and Seignanx in their entirety, and the canton of Chalosse Tursan excluding the commune of Haut-Mauco, and — in the canton of Adour-Armagnac: the communes of Aire-sur-l’Adour, Artassenx, Bahus-Soubiran, Bascons, Bordères-et-Lamensans, Buanes, Castandet, Cazères-sur-l’Adour, Classun, Duhort-Bachen, Eugénie-les-Bains, Grenade-sur-l’Adour, Larrivière-Saint-Savin, Latrille, Lussagnet, Maurrin, Renung, Saint-Agnet, Saint-Loubouer, Saint-Maurice-sur-Adour, Sarron, Vielle-Tursan and Vignau; — in the canton Pays morcenais tarusate: the communes of Audon, Bégaar, Beylongue, Boos, Carcarès-Sainte-Croix, Carcen-Ponson, Gouts, Laluque, Lamothe, Lesgor, Le Leuy, Meilhan, Pontonx-sur-l’Adour, Rion-des-Landes, Saint-Yaguen, Souprosse, Tartas and Villenave;

— in the department of Hautes-Pyrénées: the cantons of Aureilhan, Bordères-sur-l’Echez, la Haute Bigorre, Lourdes 1 and 2, Moyen-Adour, Ossun, Tarbes 1, 2 and 3, Val d’Adour-Rustan-Madiranais, la Vallée des Gaves and Vic-en-Bigorre in their entirety, and the communes of Ancizan, Aragnouet, Ardengost, Argelès-Bagnères, Arreau, Aspin-Aure, Aulon, Azet, Banios, Barrancoueu, Bazus-Aure, Bettes, Beyrède-Jumet, Bourisp, Cadéac, Cadeilhan-Trachère, Camous, Camparan, Cieutat, Ens, Estensan, Fréchet-Aure, Gouaux, Grézian, Guchan, Guchen, Hauban, Ilhet, Jézeau, Lançon, Lies, Marsas, Mérilheu, Orignac, Pailhac, Sailhan, Saint-Lary-Soulan, Tramezaïgues, Uzer, Vielle-Aure and Vignec.

5. Link with the geographical area

The link with the geographical area of the ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI is based on its specific quality and reputation. The specific quality of this ham consists in its round shape, the uniform colour of its slices, its lack of crust as well as its balanced, slightly salty flavour and soft texture. These qualities all result from the fresh hams which are selected, the salt used and the expertise of the meat curers and operators within the sector.

The temperate oceanic climate of the Pays de l’Adour, with its hint of southern warmth, is due mainly to the combination of two elements, namely its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean and to the Pyrenees. As a result, this area in the foothills of the Pyrenees experiences mild temperatures and high levels of humidity throughout the year. Nevertheless, the climate can vary dramatically and it has often been observed that the level of relative humidity can drop from 90 % to 20 % in a few hours. This phenomenon is particular to, and typical of, the Adour basin. In order to explain it, geographers refer to the Foehn effect. This is when a warm, dry wind moves downwards along a mountainside, from south to north.

When this occurs in Adour, the level of relative humidity drops suddenly, and the temperature tends to increase.

One of the specific qualities of the Adour basin lies in the nature of its subsoil, in particular its rock salt. The salt deposits formed 200 million years ago at the beginning of the Mesozoic era. At the time, land subsidence was taking place in the region known today as the Aquitaine basin and it was flooded by the sea. The salt was deposited primarily in the southern half of the Aquitaine basin, specifically in the area of the Adour basin.

In areas where the salt is close to the earth surface, extracting from the salt deposits is relatively easy. This is the case in Dax, Salies de Béarn and Bayonne-Mouguerre.

The Pays de l’Adour has its own unique climate, as well as a very dense hydrographic network, the characteristics of which distinguish it from surrounding areas.

Pigs are part of the historical farming tradition in south-west France.

Those reared in this region have always been bigger and fed with local cereals, including maize as soon as it was introduced in Europe.

The pigs, which will eventually be used to produce ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI, are reared in an area that uses practices that pre-date medieval times. This area is recognised as an area where:

— pigs which are adapted to the production of dry-cured ham (bigger, fatter pigs) are reared,

— a production system combining pigs and cereals is used due to the local availability of cereals, particularly maize.

This process developed in a unique way as it differs entirely from the predominant pig-rearing model found in the west of France.

This area that supplies pigs has:

— a cohesive geography and climate, which is characterised by sunlight levels and summer temperatures that favour cereal cultivation (particularly grain maize),

— a cohesive economy and people, due to the interrelation between areas that farrow and fatten pigs, as well as historic trade routes that facilitated the supply of ham from areas where pigs are fattened to areas where the ham is dried.

The traditional use of rock salt from the Adour basin to produce the ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI is also an indicator of expertise. This rock salt, which has been extracted since ancient times from the different deposits in the Adour basin, has been used by meat curers in the region for centuries due to its purity and non-abrasive texture, which distinguishes it from sea salt. It allows for optimal ham curing without altering the product flavour.

The salt is applied in the traditional way. The ham is rubbed with dry salt. Then, in order to gradually extract the juice, it is regularly massaged according to specific expert knowledge and a particular technique.

After the salt from the Adour basin has been applied and the ham has been through the post-salting and drying processes, it begins to age. The minimum production time for ‘Jambon de Bayonne’, from initially applying the salt to packaging the ham, is seven months. This minimum duration allows the ham to acquire the aromas specific to the ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI.

‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI is characterised by:

— its round shape;

— the uniform colour of each slice;

— its lack of crust;

— its balanced, slightly salty flavour;

— its tenderness, despite being a dry-cured ham (average dry matter content of 47 %), and soft texture.

The craft of curing ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ is part of an old tradition that revolves around the use of specific pork, the extraction of rock salt from deposits in the ground (a process which has taken place since ancient times) and the unique climate of the Adour basin.

This area has a climate that is particularly well suited to this preparation process. The climate is at the heart of the tradition of producing ‘Jambon de Bayonne’, which was already well established in the 16th century, both in France and in Europe, and which has continued to thrive ever since. The Foehn effect is one of its defining features, and it directly influences the aging process of the dry-cured ham and the preservation of its tenderness by varying the level of relative humidity in the air which creates sudden changes in temperature.

Studies which the University of Pau and Pays de l’Adour have carried out, whether historical (Chantal Lopez, 1989), geographical (Jean-Claude Jaffrezo, 1989) or geological (Raoul Deloffre, 1989, and Marie-Hélène Grimaldi, 1989), bring to light the regional specificity of ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ production, which is a defining feature of the region’s heritage.

This reputation has not been earned by accident. It comes from a combination of elements specific to the geographical area, expertise and culture of the people of this region.

It is the result of knowledge that has been passed down the generations in farming and rural families. ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ was the highest-quality product within a family’s food supply and a lot of care was taken in producing it.

Initially, ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ was nourishment for farmers, but it subsequently became a medium of exchange in times of need in order to pay tithes and leases. Eventually, with the increasing number of small municipal abattoirs in villages, the production of ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ became a specialist craft. Pork butchers took over the production of the renowned ‘Jambon de Bayonne’.

For over 70 years, artisanal butchers who specialised in curing meat developed a method to produce ‘Jambon de Bayonne’, leading to production on an industrial scale as seen today. Modern techniques, particularly those involving the use of cold temperatures, allow ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ to be produced all year round. This has led to the evolution and adaptation of ancestral expert knowledge into a modern means of production.

The current ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ production method is a faithful and systematic adaptation of the traditional method that has always been used.

There are many quotes attesting to the renown of the ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ PGI, such as the following examples.

Froidour, in his Mémoire du Pays de Soule of 1673, states that ‘the pigs are small but so excellent that the best ham in France comes from Soule, second only to the ham from Lahontan. It is known as Bayonne ham and it is important to note that, although the city is famous and renowned for its ham, hardly any is produced there. Ham from Labourd and Basse Navarre is sold in Bayonne, as well as a small amount of ham from Soule, which is further away.’

In the 18th century, the poet Piron told the Bishop of Bayonne ‘I greatly enjoy the ham produced in your diocese.’

At the beginning of the 19th century, the French traveller Jouy noted in l’Hermite en Province (1828) that ‘at Pau, there is a significant trade in famous hams known as Bayonne ham. It is prepared in Saleis where the local spring gives the ham an exquisite taste.’

In the Livre d’Or du ‘Jambon de Bayonne’, 1991, Louis Laborde-Balen states that ‘legend has it that Bayonne ham was first made almost two millennia ago, when two hunters injured a boar that died near a saltwater spring. The following summer, the villagers discovered the boar, which was perfectly preserved at the bottom of the dried spring. The bravest among them tried the meat and found that they enjoyed the taste. Every winter since then, pig meat, and particularly ham, has been stored thanks to the salt from Salies de Béarn or other salt manufacturers from the Adour basin.’

Reference to publication of the specification

(second subparagraph of Article 6(1) of this Regulation)

https://extranet.inao.gouv.fr/fichier/CDC-IGP-JdeBayonneQCOMUE1.pdf

(1) OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.