Publication of the amended single document following the approval of a minor amendment pursuant to the second subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012

(2022/C 175/05)

The European Commission has approved this minor amendment in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 6(2) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) No 664/2014 (1).

The application for approval of this minor amendment can be consulted in the Commission’s eAmbrosia database.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’

EU No: PGI-FR-02319-AM01 – 30.12.2021

PDO ( ) PGI (X)

1. Name(s)

‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’

2. Member State or Third Country

France

3. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1. Type of product

Class 1.7. Fresh fish, molluscs and crustaceans and products derived therefrom

3.2. Description of product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ is a gastropod mollusc belonging to the species Buccinum undatum. It is sold whole in its shell:

— live, or

— cooked fresh, pasteurised or frozen.

It may be flavoured during cooking.

The colour of the shell, which is often light, varies from white to dark brown and from greenish white to dark green, depending on the amount of algae on the surface. The shell may have reddish spots caused by micro-algae. The foot is ivory-white to cream-white in colour, with small streaks and black spots.

The dimensions are defined as the size of the shell from its apex to the siphonal canal. ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ measures between 47 mm and 70 mm. However, a maximum of 8 % of the batch may consist of individuals smaller than 47 mm and 15 % of individuals larger than 70 mm.

Owing to the time required for the ‘bulot’ (whelk) to reach the required dimensions, they are often carriers of marine organisms (barnacles, worms, slipper limpets) called epibionts, which are attached to the shell. Epibionts may not be present on more than 25 % of the ‘bulots’ in batches marketed under the ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ PGI. This proportion is calculated on the basis of individuals that are significant carriers, as measured by comparing them to photographic reference material.

‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ smells of iodine, the sea and algae. In the mouth, after cooking, ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ has a tender texture, a noticeable moisture content and iodine-like, marine and nutty flavours. It may be slightly crunchy owing to the presence of small sediments or shell debris. It does not have a muddy odour or taste.

3.3. Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

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3.4. Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

The ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ is fished and landed in the geographical area.

3.5. Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

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3.6. Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

Each individual pack of PGI ‘bulots’ must include:

— the name ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’, written in clear, legible and indelible characters, the dimensions of which must be larger in both height and width than the characters of any other words on the labelling;

— the European Union PGI logo, which must be placed close to the sales name.

4. Concise definition of the geographical area

The geographical area of ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ is defined by:

— a maritime fishing area;

— a landing area.

Fishing area:

‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ is fished on the west side of the Cotentin Peninsula, in the coastal area extending from the headland of Goury in the north to the headland of Champeaux in the south. It is caught within a coastal strip of 30 nautical miles calculated from the landing points.

Landing area:

The landing area comprises all the coastal municipalities between the headland at Goury in the north and the headland at Champeaux in the south. It is made up of the following municipalities of the department of Manche:

Municipalities included in their entirety:

Agon-Coutainville; Annoville; Barneville-Carteret; Baubigny; Blainville-sur-Mer; Bréhal; Bretteville-sur-Ay; Bréville-sur-Mer; Bricqueville-sur-Mer; Carolles; Champeaux; Coudeville-sur-Mer; Créances; Donville-les-Bains; Flamanville; Geffosses; Granville; Hauteville-sur-Mer; La Haye; Héauville; Heugueville-sur-Sienne; Jullouville; Lessay; Lingreville; Les Moitiers-d’Allonne; Montmartin-sur-Mer; Orval sur Sienne; Les Pieux; Pirou; Port-Bail-sur-Mer; Regnéville-sur-Mer; Le Rozel; Saint-Georges-de-la-Rivière; Saint-Germain-sur-Ay; Saint-Jean-de-la-Rivière; Saint-Pair-sur-Mer; Siouville-Hague; Surtainville; Tourville-sur-Sienne; Tréauville.

Municipality partially included: La Hague and Gouville-sur-Mer.

5. Link with the geographical area

Specificity of the geographical area

The Bay of Granville area is characterised by a large tidal range (mean range: 10.5 m) and a sharp retreat of the sea at low tide. The movement of the water masses during the tidal cycle induces currents at speeds of up to 2 knots in Granville.

The strength of the currents causes significant dispersion of the water columns, and the water mass undergoes constant vertical mixing (no stratification).

The significant water exchange, caused by the tidal currents and the swell, limits the seasonal variation of the water temperature to about 10 °C. The average temperature is around 17 °C in summer and 8 °C in winter.

The strong currents and the large tidal range mean that the water masses are continuously renewed by water flowing in from the open sea, and this guarantees excellent water quality and cool water temperatures.

The Bay of Granville has a certain bathymetric homogeneity, and depths exceeding 50 m can be found only beyond 30 nautical miles from the ports on the west coast of Cotentin.

This is an area rich in shell debris, with very little muddy sediment (fine sediment).

The west coast of Cotentin enjoys a temperate oceanic climate (annual average temperature: 11,4 °C) that is very heavily influenced by humid and cool air currents from the Atlantic.

Furthermore, the particularity of the local coast lies in its landscape, which is exposed to predominantly westerly winds and has a mostly sandy facies, except at the northern and southern extremities, which limits the possibilities for fishing vessels to find shelter and launching grounds. The need for vessels fishing ‘bulots’ to be distributed all along the coastal area, and these environmental considerations, are the reason for:

— the many slipways and landing points along the coast;

— the small size of the fishing units (<12 m), enabling vessels to be taken out of the water or making it easier to ground them.

The ‘bulot’ is part of the traditional diet of the local coastal populations of Normandy. It used to be caught by hand or using a rake at low tide (A. Locard, Manuel Pratique d’Ostréiculture, 1900 and L. Joubin, Études sur les Gisements de Coquilles Comestibles des Côtes de France – La presqu’île du Cotentin; Bulletin de l’Institut Océanographique, 1911). The ‘bulot’ was consumed directly but also sought after as bait, which was hooked to fishing lines used to catch higher-value fish such as cod.

During the first half of the 20th century, small-scale fishing with pots, trawlers or dredges, which were widely used techniques in the Granville area, also supplied by-catches of ‘bulots’, a valuable supplement on fishing trips.

Specialised techniques have been developed since the mid-20th century. In 1947 J. Le Dantec wrote about the targeted fishing of ‘bulots’‘que des doris vont pêcher dans des casiers à proximité de la côte’ (‘that dory boats go fish using pots close to the coast’) (Revue officielle des travaux des pêches maritimes 1947-1949 – Vol. XV.FASC. 1-4 No 54-60).

The professional fishing of ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ grew significantly in the second half of the 20th century, thanks to the emergence of gear that made it possible to fish larger quantities. Consequently this activity became professional, specialised and profitable. The specific gear used included pots to catch ‘bulots’ and open boxes for their transport.

From 1985, a resource management system (vessel size, type of gear, fishing calendar, etc.) was put in place for the ‘bulot’ fished in the Bay of Granville so as to preserve the resource and the small-scale nature of pot fishery.

Specificity of the product

‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ is a gastropod of the species Buccinum undatum. It is characterised by:

— its being marketed whole, in its shell;

— its freshness;

— its size: between 47 mm and 70 mm; less than 15 % of the ‘bulots’ being larger than 70 mm and less than 8 % smaller than 47 mm;

— when eaten: it contains little or no sediment, tastes of the sea, iodine, algae and nuts and has no muddy smell or taste.

Causal link

The link with the geographical area of ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ is based on its specific quality and reputation.

Its quality results firstly from the combined characteristics of the geographical area and the fishermen’s know-how.

The natural conditions of the Bay of Granville (bathymetry, large tidal range, quality and temperature of the water) are ideal for the development of the Buccinum undatum cold-water species.

Fishermen have adapted their practices to the characteristics of the area. Owing to the large tidal range, ports are accessible only at high tide. The semi-diurnal tidal flow determines when to depart for and return from a fishing trip: the vessels must not exceed a fishing time of 16 hours.

‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ is an attractive product owing to its freshness, guaranteed by the short fishing time, but also to the good preservation of the live ‘bulots’ and their organoleptic characteristics thanks to:

— the ‘gentle’ fishing method using pots, which prevents stress such as shell breakage or mixing with marine sediments, and allows the ‘bulots’ to be lifted out of the water intact and alive;

— the selection of fishing areas and the sorting and cleaning carried out by the fishermen, which make it possible to remove any remaining bait and sediments;

— the local, regular and balanced exploitation of the fishing area, which ensures a relatively small and stable size;

— the storage in open boxes, which helps keep the ‘bulots’ alive and intact until they are sold live or cooked.

The temperate climatic conditions are likewise favourable to the good preservation of the live ‘bulots’, from the moment they come out of the water until they are landed, without any ice being added.

Finally, the sedimentary seabed enhances the gustatory quality of ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’. There are virtually no muddy sediments, which are known to weaken the organoleptic characteristics of the ‘bulot’ (dark exterior, muddy smell and taste).

For several decades now, the Bay of Granville has had a good reputation among local residents, which improved further when professional fishing started being developed in the 1980s. The area has become France’s centre for the development of ‘bulot’ fishing and for the marketing of this product in its traditional, whole, form.

As seafood platters became fashionable and products started being sold in cooked form, the sale of ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ played a role in boosting the consumption of ‘bulot’ throughout France and the reputation of Granville. The very origin of the word ‘bulot’ shows how appreciated ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ is among connoisseurs. Until the 1990s, the official sales name of this mollusc was ‘buccin’, but the product was better known by the name ‘bulot’, a term from Normandy. Its use became more widespread together with the development of marketing, and ‘bulot’ was adopted as an official name alongside ‘buccin’. The full name ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ then started being used in marketing as a means of providing information to the consumer and promoting ‘bulots’ from the Bay of Granville.

The reputation of ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ has spread beyond professional and regional circles through the mainstream press and TV programmes. These include the famous TV series ‘Thalassa’, which is focused on the sea and devoted a special report to the product, called ‘Bulotier à Granville, Reportage sur une pêche un peu spéciale: la pêche aux bulots à Granville’ in May 1996.

The ‘Bay of Granville’ origin is now a true guarantee of quality, as shown in an article on the national and European aspects of the consumption of ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’, published in the monthly magazine ‘Terra Eco’ in February 2013: ‘le bulot de Granville, réputé pour sa fraîcheur et son fumet sans arrière-goût de vase, s’exporte aux quatre coins de la France et dans l’Europe voisine.’ (‘The “bulot” of Granville, renowned for its freshness and a flavour that has no aftertaste of mud, is exported to the four corners of France and to neighbouring European countries’) .

The most beautiful televised eulogy to ‘Bulot de la Baie de Granville’ was made by the famous Michelin-starred chef Guy Martin who, in 2014, in an episode of the series ‘Epicerie Fine’ on TV5 Monde dedicated to shellfish in Normandy, declared the following: ‘Les bulots, on en voit de partout, mais il faut choisir le Bulot de la Baie de Granville, parce que ce bulot c’est une région, un savoir-faire, je dirai un terroir, une mer…’ (‘You see “bulots” everywhere, but you have to choose “Bulot de la Baie de Granville”, because this “bulot”, it is also a region, an expertise, I’d even say a land and a sea...’).

Reference to publication of the specification

https://info.agriculture.gouv.fr/gedei/site/bo-agri/document_administratif-757e6893-2c06-411d-ad49-3c0dcc5363a5

(1) OJ L 179, 19.6.2014, p. 17.