EN Official Journal of the European Union C 320/41

Publication of an application for registration pursuant to Article 8(2) of Council Regulation (EC) No 509/2006 on agricultural products and foodstuffs as traditional specialities guaranteed

2009/C 320/19

This publication confers the right to object to the application pursuant to Article 9 of Council Regulation (EC) No 509/2006. Statements of objection must reach the Commission within six months of the date of this publication.

TSG REGISTRATION APPLICATION

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 509/2006

‘BRATISLAVSKÝ ROŽOK’ OR ‘PRESSBURGER KIPFEL’ OR ‘POZSONYI KIFLI’

EC No: SK-TSG-0007-0056-04.02.2008

1. Name and address of the applicant group:

Name: Cech pekárov a cukrárov regiónu západného Slovenska Address: M.R. Štefánika 10 902 01 Pezinok SLOVENSKO/SLOVAKIA Tel. +421 336413314 E-mail: repecu@stonline.sk

2. Member State or non-member country:

Slovak Republic (SK)

3. Product Specification:

3.1. Name proposed for registration:

‘Bratislavský rožok’ or ‘Pressburger Kipfel’ or ‘Pozsonyi kifli’

3.2. The name:

is specific in itself  expresses the specific character of the agricultural product or foodstuff

The product is specific in terms of the historically established composition and method of production. The term ‘Bratislavský rožok’ is used exclusively to denote this particular type of fine bakery ware.

The Slovak name ‘Bratislavský rožok’ began to be used in about 1920, after the city of Pressburg, then part of Czechoslovakia and the capital of Slovakia, had been renamed Bratislava. As of that year, the name of the pastry was adapted in line with the city's new name, hence ‘Bratislavský rožok’. After the new name of the city was adopted, the expression Kipfel began to be used in Austria, instead of the usual Beugel, together with the old name of the city. This custom has persisted in Austria to the present day and we therefore recommend the name ‘Pressburger Kipfel’ as the German version. The name originally used in Hungarian was Pozsonyi patkó (which translated as ‘Bratislava horseshoe’). According to current information from several Hungarian bakers or confectioners, particularly in Budapest, this product is manufactured and marketed under the name ‘Pozsonyi kifli’, which translates as ‘Bratislavský rožok’, the name of the city being in use from 1918. In view of the established custom, we propose that the name ‘Pozsonyi kifli’ be retained.

3.3. Is reservation of the name sought under Article 13(2) of Regulation (EC) No 509/2006?

Registration with name reservation  Registration without name reservation

3.4. Type of product:

Class 2.3. Confectionery, bread, pastry, cakes, biscuits and other bakers’ wares

3.5. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff to which the name under 3.1 applies:

Fine, crescent-shaped pastry with a poppy-seed or walnut filling and a glossy and marbled surface.

Organoleptic characteristics:

Colour: brown to dark brown crust; on the cut surface, after a few millimetres of rough pastry case there is filling only — the poppy-seed filling is dark grey to black, and the walnut filling is brown;

Appearance: a uniform glossy brown to dark brown surface with delicate mottling in a lighter shade, resembling marbling, on the upper crust;

Consistency: pastry case: firm, thin, crumbles when broken;

Aroma and flavour: delicate, typical of the chosen filling (i.e. typically walnut or poppy-seed flavour), pleasant sweet taste with an aroma of the ingredients used.

Physical characteristics:

Shape: horseshoe shape with narrower diameter for the poppy-seed filling, and a letter C shape for the walnut filling;

Weight: usually 40 to 60 g.

Chemical properties:

— fat content in dry matter — min. 20 %;

— sugar content in dry matter — min. 12 %.

3.6. Description of the production method for the agricultural product or foodstuff to which the name under 3.1 applies:

Raw materials and ingredients used for the product

Recipe for 10 kg flour:

DOUGH poppy-seed walnut wheat flour T-512 10,00 kg 10,00 kg granulated sugar 1,50-1,70 kg 1,50-1,70 kg yeast 0,40-0,70 kg 0,40-0,70 kg edible fat (vegetable oil, margarine or butter) 3,00-4,00 kg 3,00-4,00 kg salt 0,06-0,10 kg 0,06-0,10 kg powdered milk 0,20-0,30 kg 0,20-0,30 kg egg pulp (fresh eggs) 0,40-1,20 kg 0,40-1,20 kg water 2,00-2,50 kg 2,00-2,50 kg POPPY-SEED FILLING ground poppy-seeds 8,00-12,00 kg — granulated sugar 4,00-8,00 kg — vanilla sugar 0-0,50 kg — powdered milk 0-1,00 kg — chopped lemon peel or lemon paste 0-0,10 kg — ground cinnamon 0-0,05 kg — water 4,00-6,00 kg — WALNUT FILLING ground walnut kernels — 8,00-12,00 kg granulated sugar — 4,00-6,00 kg sweet crumbs — 1,00-3,00 kg raisins — 0-0,50 kg flavouring — 0-0,10 kg water — 3,00-5,00 kg FINISHING egg pulp or yolk (for coating the surface) 0,60-1,20 kg 0,60-1,20 kg

Production method:

The dough is prepared by mixing the flour with 2,00-2,50 kg of water or water to which powdered milk has been added, yeast, salt, sugar and edible fat (vegetable oil, margarine or butter). The mixed dough is left to rise for 30 to 40 minutes. After the dough has visibly increased in volume, it is briefly rekneaded and then separated into pieces which are formed into balls. After rising for 15 to 20 minutes, these are rolled out into elliptical strips measuring 12-15 cm along their longer axis. The thickness of the rolled pastry strip must be 2 to 3 mm. Cylindrical pieces of poppy-seed or walnut filling are placed on the rolled pastry strips and wrapped to form cylinders 12 to 15 cm long, gradually narrowing in diameter from the centre to the end. When the filling has been wrapped, the dough should be joined evenly and the point at which the joint is made must be on the underside of the product when it is shaped into a crescent on the baking tray. The product is formed into a horseshoe shape for the poppy-seed filling or into a letter C shape for the walnut filling. The shapes must be sufficiently different for it to be clear at a glance which filling they contain.

The poppy-seed filling is prepared by dissolving the sugar in a small quantity of water and bringing it to the boil. Ground poppy seeds mixed with powdered milk are gradually added to the dissolved sugar under constant stirring and boiled to produce a fairly thick mass. The poppy-seed filling is then cooled and a generous portion of chopped fresh lemon peel or lemon paste is added, together with a small amount of vanilla sugar where necessary. The walnut filling is not cooked, but the ground walnut kernels are simply mixed with sugar, hot water and an appropriate quantity of flavouring. A maximum of 10 % by weight of ground walnut kernels may be replaced by sweet crumbs.

Both fillings must be thick enough for small balls to be formed by hand.

The shaped products are placed on a baking tray and brushed with whole egg pulp or yolk only, diluted with a very small quantity of water. The egg-coated products on the trays are left in a cool place with air circulation so that the flow dries their surface slightly. Once the surface is dried, the products are placed in a proving oven. The risen products are baked as yeast-based pastry products. During rising and particularly during baking, the dry airflow on the surface creates fine fissures and the typical marbled structure of the product's upper crust.

If the intention is to make the ‘strongly marbled’ surface of ‘Bratislavský rožok’, the croissants are removed from the proving oven halfway through rising, coated again with whole egg pulp or yolk, allowed to dry (15 to 30 minutes) and then returned to the proving oven to finish rising. This produces more marbling. The products are baked without steam at a temperature of 180-200 °C.

Baking time depends on the size of the products; at 30-35 g the baking time is 7-8 mins, at 40-50 g the time is 10-12 mins and at 60 g and above the time is 15 mins or more.

After cooling, the baked products are prepared for dispatch and sale.

Labelling:

the highlighted name of the product ‘Bratislavský rožok’ or the equivalent in German or Hungarian

the Community logo or the logo and the inscription Zaručená tradičná špecialita (Traditional speciality guaranteed). The abbreviation ZTŠ (TSG) may appear on the packaging.

Method and place of sale:

The ‘Bratislavský rožok’ is sold by the piece in the manufacturer's specialist outlets or in confectioners’ shops, cafés and fast-food outlets.

Storage:

It is stored at a temperature of up to +10 °C.

3.7. Specificity of the agricultural product or foodstuff:

— the specific character of the product lies in its distinctive surface, which is ‘marbled’, i.e. finely self-mottled with lighter colouring than the rest of the upper crust. Other bakery or confectionery products do not have this type of surface,

— the product differs from similar types of fine short pastry wares on the market by virtue of its different form and weight, but also of the quantity of filling. The dough has more fat added to it than other products, and no other type of bakery ware has marbling on the surface,

— the product has a specific aroma and flavour achieved through the use of poppy-seed or walnut filling,

— the product has a distinctive appearance and a horseshoe or letter C shape,

— the product is hand-made and not mass produced.

To preserve the traditional character of the product, the following recipe requirements must be met when it is prepared:

— for the preparation of the dough, the recipe must specify at least 30 % edible fat in proportion to the quantity of flour used,

— the filling must constitute more than 50 % of the total weight of the baked product,

— whole egg pulp or yolk only must be brushed on to the product before baking and, according to the production method, must produce marbling on the baked product.

3.8. Traditional character of the agricultural product or foodstuff:

The traditional character of the product is based on its traditional composition, i.e. the filling must constitute more than 50 % of the total weight of the baked product.

The product with its specific name has already been made for more than two centuries, including in the neighbouring countries of Hungary and Austria with which Slovakia shared a single constitution less than 90 years ago.

Vladimír Tomčík's book S vareškou dvoma tisícročiami (tracing 2 000 years of gastronomy) quotes entries from ledgers indicating that the ‘Bratislavský rožok’ was being served in inns in 1590, although the secret of its manufacture is much older.

In the publication Ulice a námestia mesta Bratislavy (‘Streets and Squares of the City of Bratislava’) by Tivadar Ortvay, published in Bratislava in 1905, page 305 reads as follows: ‘not far from Viktor Mayer's confectioner's shop, the old Scheuermann bakery (now Lauda) bakes the poppy-seed and walnut horseshoes which made Bratislava famous as a speciality’. (Ulice a námestia mesta Bratislavy; A history of the city by names of streets and squares according to original research by Dr. Tivadar Ortvay, Bratislava, 1905; printed by F.K. Wigand. Pages 304 and 305 in Hungarian of the book named in Annex 1 mention the Scheuermann bakery in connection with today's Hviezdoslavovo námestie. The relevant part of the text reads: ‘Nearby there is the old Scheuermann (now Lauda) poppy-seed and walnut horseshoe bakery, which established Bratislava's fame for this speciality. The “Bratislava cracker” is another of these specialities …’)

The publication Chlieb náš každodenný (‘Our Daily Bread’) by V. Szemes and V. Karovič, published in Bratislava in 1992, states on page 52: ‘For St Nicholas’ Day in 1785 the baker Schiermann placed in his shop window a new kind of filled bakery product which went down in history as the prešpurské beugle. We regard the difference in the names Scheuermann and Schiermann as a typographical error; the correct name is Scheuermann.

Several bakers in Bratislava went on to make ‘Bratislavský rožok’. One of the best known is Ágoston Schwappach, whose bakery was founded in 1834 and offered poppy-seed and walnut horseshoes. Two of the successors to the ‘Bratislavský rožok’ bakers Scheuermann and Lauda were the master baker Johann Korče, who lived from 1851 to 1919 and was a knight of the Order of Franz Josef, and his son, the master baker Hans Korče. The Korče family was succeeded by Emil Kastner.

The Gustáv Wendler bakery in Štefánikova ulica in Bratislava, which also sent ‘Bratislavský rožok’ by mail order, was also well known.

In the former Bratislava journal Pressburger Wegweiser of 1863, the Anton Pressberger confectioner and bakery advertises, inter alia, ‘poppy-seed and walnut beugle’.

The Viennese newspaper Neue Freie Presse of 16 April 1938 has a recipe for Pressburger Kipfel — Bratislavské rožky. The description of the recipe and production method is almost identical to that used today.

Terézia Vansová and Ján Babilon also described the ‘Bratislavský rožok’ in their book in 1870.

A series of bakers and confectioners have made the ‘Bratislavský rožok’ in several European cities, particularly in Austria, the Czech Republic and Hungary. According to information gathered from bakery experts in other countries, a product bearing the name ‘Bratislavský rožok’ is made in several cities, or its shape, approximate recipe and production method is at least known. Practical training in the making of the ‘Bratislavský rožok’ was given at vocational colleges of bakery and confectionery in the former Czechoslovakia, particularly after 1950. The name ‘Bratislavský rožok’ began to be used in 1918, after the founding of Czechoslovakia and the re-naming of the city from the original Pressburg or Pozsony to Bratislava. The name of the product also changed. The original name beugle was in Hungarian turned into patkó, meaning ‘horseshoe’. The term rožok apparently began to be used together with the new name of the city. In Hungary the name ‘Pozsonyi kifli’ (‘Bratislavský rožok’), i.e. the old name for the city with the new name for the shape, is used to the present day. In Austria, too, the name ‘Pressburger Kipfel’ is used more often and the term beugle is rarely heard.

The ‘Bratislavský rožok’ is a historic product despite its present-day popularity. According to estimates, it is regularly made in Slovakia by more than 20 bakeries and confectioners and at least once a week by dozens more manufacturers.

In 1999 and 2005, the Slovak bakers’ cooperative presented ‘Bratislavský rožok’ amongst the competition products in the final of the Lesaffre Bakery World Cup in Paris and they were highly commended by the judges.

At the beginning of 2007, an international competition for the best ‘Bratislavský rožok’ was held for the first time in history as part of the Danubius Gastro exhibition in Bratislava, attracting nine teams from three countries (front page of Bratislavské novíny, 25 January 2007).

Bratislava newspapers and several nationwide periodicals ran a series of articles about the competition.

On 25 July 2008, the daily Nový čas ran an article on the ‘Bratislavský rožok’. The article also contains a traditional recipe from 1938, and the description of the product states that: ‘… it is formed into a horseshoe shape with poppy-seed filling or a letter C with walnut filling.’.

An article entitled ‘The Bratislavský rožok — a tradition with a long history’ on p. 52 of EPICURE magazine states that the product: ‘with poppy-seed filling is shaped into a horseshoe, and with walnut filling has a letter C shape’.

3.9. Minimum requirements and procedures to check the specific character:

The basic analytical characteristics of the given recipe are checked — the dough recipe must contain at least 30 % edible fat and the filling must constitute more than 50 % of the total weight of the finished product.

Checks are carried out on the raw materials used for manufacture and on compliance with the precise proportions of the ingredients according to the recipe.

The following parameters are also inspected:

— organoleptic characteristics visual inspection of the surface and appearance; both must comply with the characteristics set out in point 3.5 of the specifications; sensory analysis of aroma and flavour,

— physical, chemical and microbiological requirements the shape of the product is inspected visually; it must comply with the characteristics set out in point 3.5 of the specifications, the fat and dry matter content is monitored using standard analytical methods, the filling must constitute more than 50 % of the total weight of the baked product, as set out in point 3.7 of the specifications,

— compliance with the technological production method.

The frequency of inspection by the authority or body verifying compliance with the product specification is once per year.

Sensory checks on the organoleptic characteristics are as a rule made once per year.

Each manufacturer performs his or her own interim checks.

4. Authorities or bodies verifying compliance with the product specification:

4.1. Name and address:

Name: BEL/NOVAMANN International, s r.o. Address: Továrenská 14 815 71 Bratislava P.O.BOX 11 820 04 Bratislava 24 SLOVENSKO/SLOVAKIA Tel. +421 250213376 E-mail: tomas.ducho@ba.bel.sk

 Public Private

4.2. Specific tasks of the authority or body:

Quality control and checks on compliance with the specification for the ‘Bratislavský rožok’ on the basis of the criteria laid down in the application are carried out by the firm BEL/NOVAMANN International, s.r.o., as the CERTEX certified body accredited in accordance with the EN 45011 standard. This company is authorised by the Slovak Ministry of Agriculture to check compliance with the product specification.