Publication of an application for approval of an amendment, which is not minor, to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2021/C 313/07)

This publication confers the right to oppose the amendment application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.

APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF AN AMENDMENT TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION OF PROTECTED DESIGNATIONS OF ORIGIN/PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS WHICH IS NOT MINOR

Application for approval of an amendment in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012

‘Nostrano Valtrompia’

EU No: PDO-IT-0823-AM01 – 24 November 2020

PDO (X) PGI ( )

1. Applicant group and legitimate interest

Consorzio di Tutela del Nostrano Valtrompia (‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ Protection Association). Registered address: Via G. Matteotti 327, 25063 Gardone Val Trompia. Certified email address: dopnostranovaltrompia@legalmail.it

The ‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ Protection Association is formed by producers of ‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ cheese. It is entitled to submit an amendment application under Article 13(1) of Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policy Decree No 12511 of 14 October 2013.

2. Member state or Third Country

Italy

3. Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)

☐ Name of product

☒ Description of product

☐ Geographical area

☐ Proof of origin

☒ Method of production

☐ Link

☐ Labelling

☐ Other [to be specified]

4. Type of amendment(s)

☒ Amendment to product specification of a registered PDO or PGI not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

☐ Amendment to product specification of registered PDO or PGI for which a Single Document (or equivalent) has not been published not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

5. Amendment(s)

5.1. Description of product

Change to fat percentage on a dry basis and removal of fat content on a wet basis

Amendment to Article 2 of the product specification and point 3.2 of the single document

The text no longer states the fat content of the cheese on a wet basis.

Previous version:

‘The fat content of the cheese on a wet basis is between 18 % and 28 %. The fat content on a dry basis is between 27,5 % and 42,0 %.’

New version:

‘The fat content of the cheese on a dry basis is between 27,5 % and 45,0 %.’

This increase in the percentage of fat on a dry basis is explained by the fact that interest in the cheese since PDO status was obtained in 2012 has led to many mountain-based cattle farms entering the certified production chain.

These new farms are often run by young stockmen who manage their herds using techniques that are more rational than those of the past.

Reductions in milking frequency, genetic improvements, a larger average herd size and a more balanced diet, as well as improvements to herd health and hygiene, have led to improvements in the quality of the milk, including a slightly higher fat content. The cheese made from that milk therefore tends to have a slightly higher fat content on a dry basis.

This increase in the percentage of fat on a dry basis does not affect the characteristics of the cheese. Moreover, it continues to be a medium-fat cheese under the Codex Alimentarius standard.

The decision to remove the fat percentage on a wet basis stems from the fact that in recent years having two references – fat on a wet basis and fat on a dry basis – has led to interpretation issues during checks when only one of the two requirements has been met.

This choice is justified by the fact that the Codex Alimentarius standard that provides a general definition of cheese (Codex Stan 283/1978) classifies cheeses by fat content in dry matter in order to give a more objective measure that is not influenced by water content.

5.2. Method of production

Changes to the information on the starter culture in Article 5.2 of the product specification

Previous version:

‘A whey-based starter culture, made by taking the hot whey from at most the last three days’ cheesemaking and incubating it at naturally decreasing temperatures, may be added to the milk in the heating vat. The permitted quantity of starter culture is up to 2 % of the quantity of milk in the vat.’

New version:

‘A natural starter culture, made by incubating milk or hot whey from at most the last three days’ cheesemaking, may be added to the milk in the heating vat. The permitted quantity of starter culture is up to 2 % of the quantity of milk in the vat.’

This amendment introduces the possibility of using a milk-based starter culture obtained by heating up part of the producer’s own milk and leaving it to ripen at decreasing temperatures for a maximum of 24 hours, in addition to the whey-based lactic cultures that were already permitted by the previous version of the product specification, in order to reduce the number of cheeses found to be non-compliant due to structural defects (eyes, splitting, etc.) caused by abnormal fermentation due to the presence of unwanted microbes.

This technique is a natural way of harnessing the better lactic cultures present in the herd and cheesemaking environments, thus allowing a natural selection of the most suitable cultures for making defect-free cheeses. All of the natural microbial biodiversity can thus be utilised to improve the quality of the end product.

As ‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ is made using raw milk, rich in microbial flora that varies along with changes to the environmental conditions, the cheesemaking process can be impaired by abnormal fermentation caused by unwanted microflora.

It is not uncommon for unwanted fermentation to occur as ‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ matures, especially when the seasons are changing and/or there are changes to the cattle’s diets (e.g. from dry to green fodder). This fermentation affects the firmness of the cheese, causing it to develop eyes, sometimes significant enough to prevent the cheese from complying with the product specification. In order to prevent large numbers of cheeses from being excluded, meaning that small-scale mountain-based cheesemakers incur almost unsurmountable losses due to having to market their product without protected status, the use of milk-based starter cultures is proposed. Using a natural milk-based starter culture allows the native microflora to be harnessed directly from the milk, facilitating the selection of microflora than when using a starter made from whey left over from a cheesemaking process in which the curds are heated to temperatures of up to 52 °C. Allowing the use of both types of natural starter means that each cheesemaker will be able to control unwanted microbial flora more easily during the steps in production and at the beginning of the maturing period, with greater guarantees that the quality of ‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ is maintained.

Changes to the materials used to make the traditional utensils used in the production process in Article 5.2 of the product specification

Previous version:

‘Once the curds have been cut down to rice-grain-sized pieces with a spino curd-cutter, they are stirred constantly with a rotella (a traditional wooden tool consisting of a wooden disc mounted on a long handle) and then cooked at a temperature of between 47 °C and 52 °C. Between 0,05 g and 0,2 g of saffron per 100 kg of milk is added, either to the milk in the heating vat or to the mix of curds and whey before cooking. Once the cooked curds have been left for 15-60 minutes to settle on the bottom of the vat, they are removed using a cloth or a traditional cylindrical wooden vessel known as a mastella, where they remain until they are transferred into the mould.’

New version:

‘Once the curds have been cut down to rice-grain-sized pieces with a spino curd-cutter, they are stirred constantly with a rotella (a traditional tool made of wood or another material suitable for cheesemaking use, consisting of a disc mounted on a long handle) and then cooked at a temperature of between 47 °C and 52 °C. Between 0,05 g and 0,2 g of saffron per 100 kg of milk is added, either to the milk in the heating vat or to the mix of curds and whey before cooking. Once the cooked curds have been left for 15-60 minutes to settle on the bottom of the vat, they are removed using a cloth or a traditional cylindrical vessel known as a mastella, made of wood or another material suitable for cheesemaking use, where they remain until they are transferred into the mould.’

So that small-scale mountain-based businesses run by young cheesemakers, who collect and process milk from local farmers, can be certified for PDO production, the traditional tools such as the rotella and mastella no longer have to be made of wood but may now also be made from other materials commonly used in cheesemaking that are permitted under food safety rules.

This makes it easier to wash equipment, reducing a workload that is already high, particularly for those cheesemakers who use the milk from their own herds.

Changes to salting rules in Article 5 5.3 of the product specification

Previous version:

‘5.3 Salting Regular salting, a process consisting of sprinkling dry salt onto the faces and sides of the cheeses by hand, takes place over a period ranging from 5 to 20 days depending on the size of the cheese.’

New version:

‘5.3 Salting Regular salting, a process consisting of either sprinkling dry salt onto the faces and sides of the cheeses by hand or brining them, takes place over a period ranging from 5 to 20 days depending on the size of the cheese.’

This amendment makes it possible to reduce the quantity of salt in the product by making it easier to control this stage. Brining does not compromise the characteristics of the resulting cheese as laid down in the product specification, and is easier for young cheesemakers who lack experience in dry-salting.

Changes to maturing requirements in Article 5.4 of the product specification, Article 3 of the product specification and point 3.2 of the single document

Previous version:

‘5.4 Maturing The cheeses are turned over every 3 to 10 days during the maturing period. Moreover, from the third month until the end of the maturing period, the rind must be scraped and then rubbed with linseed oil every 7 to 20 days. Cheeses must be matured for at least 12 months from the time they are placed in the mould. Once the minimum maturing period has been completed, the logo referred to in Article 8 is branded onto the side of the cheese.’

New version:

‘5.4 Maturing The cheesemaking process is considered to end with the salting stage, and in any case no earlier than 20 days after the cheese is placed in the mould. During the maturing process, which lasts at least 12 months from the end of the salting period, the cheeses are turned over every 3 to 10 days. Moreover, from the third month until the end of the maturing period, the rind must be scraped and then rubbed with linseed oil every 7 to 20 days. Making a “Nostrano Valtrompia” cheese, including both the cheesemaking and the maturing periods, takes a minimum of 13 months. Once the minimum maturing period has been completed, the logo referred to in Article 8 is branded onto the side of the cheese.’

Point 3.2 of the Single Document

Previous version:

‘the minimum maturing period is 12 months’

New version:

‘The minimum maturing period is 12 months, and the entire production process until the cheese is marketed – i.e. including the cheesemaking period from milking the cows to the end of the salting process – takes 13 months.’

Some cheesemakers do not mature their own cheeses but rather send them to third parties immediately after the end of the salting process. There have been disputes about the stages of cheesemaking and maturing during checks in recent years, so a clearer distinction was needed.

The cheesemaking period is considered complete once all the ingredients, including salt, have been added to the cheese. Maturing begins once all the steps involved in cheesemaking have been completed.

On the basis of this distinction, a sentence has now been added to the text referring to the duration – 13 months – of the entire production process, comprising both cheesemaking and maturing (12 months from the end of salting).

It is important to clearly distinguish the cheesemaking stage – involving the milk and curds – from the maturing stage for better management of the control plan and the certification tasks entrusted to the control body. This makes it easier to distinguish between the different operators in the sector (cheesemaker, affineur) when carrying out the control plan and to separate their respective commitments.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘Nostrano Valtrompia’

EU No: PDO-IT-0823-AM01 – 24 November 2020

PDO (X) PGI ( )

1. Name(s) [of PDO or PGI]

‘Nostrano Valtrompia’

2. Member State or Third Country

Italy

3. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1. Type of product [listed in Annex XI]

Class 1.3. – Cheeses

3.2. Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ PDO is a medium-fat, extra-hard cheese produced all year round from raw milk with the addition of saffron. The product has the following characteristics when placed on the market: The cheeses are cylindrical with almost straight sides. They measure between 30 cm and 45 cm in diameter and between 8 cm and 12 cm in height. They weigh between 8 kg and 18 kg. They have a hard rind varying from yellow-brown to reddish-coloured. The paste is hard but not overly crumbly and may have evenly distributed medium/fine eyes. The flavour and aroma are full and intense; cheeses that have reached minimum maturity have no perceptible acid notes while very mature cheeses have a very slight hint of pungency. The paste is straw-yellow tending to yellow-green. The fat content of the cheese on a dry basis is between 27,5 % and 45 %. The maximum moisture content of the cheese on a wet basis is 36 %. The minimum maturing period is 12 months, and the entire production process until the cheese is marketed – i.e. including the cheesemaking period from milking the cows to the end of the salting process – takes 13 months.

3.3. Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

At least 75 % of total dry matter is made up of grass or hay from mixed pasture, while cereal and legume concentrates and by-products of cereal and legume processing, salt licks and mineral or vitamin complexes as supplements account for no more than 25 % of the dry matter of the feed ration.

At least 50 % of the cows’ daily dietary requirements on a dry matter basis must be met by grass and/or hay from mixed pasture – consisting of wild meadow plants including Dactylis glomerata, Festuca ovina, Poa annua, Phleum pratense and Trifolium montanum – from the geographical area identified in point 4. Depending on weather conditions, between June and September the cattle are fed on lowland or mountain pastures for at least 60 days. They may not be fed maize silage.

The milk used comes from the production area and at least 90 % of it must come from Italian Brown cows entered in the herd book. The remaining 10 % may come from other breeds or from crossbreeds. Saffron is added at quantities of between 0,05 g and 0,2 g per 100 kg of milk.

3.4. Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

The milk must be produced and made into cheese and the cheeses matured, scraped and oiled in the defined geographical area in line with the traditional production methods and timescales.

3.5. Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ PDO cheese is sold in whole wheels and/or in portions. The cheese may be cut into pieces, which can vary in weight but must be large enough to include part of the side proving the origin of the cheese. The pieces may be pre-packaged in either vacuum packaging or modified atmosphere packaging.

3.6. Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ PDO cheese is marketed in whole wheels and/or cut into pieces and is marketed with the logo, including the words ‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ repeated several times and the identification number of the producer, stamped on the side in the mould. A paper disc may be attached to one of the faces of the cheese bearing the identifying logo and the words ‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ DOP [PDO], alongside the EU logo.

4. Concise definition of the geographical area

The production and maturing area for ‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ PDO cheese comprises the municipalities of the Province of Brescia within the Trompia Valley (Valle Trompia), namely Bovegno, Bovezzo, Brione, Caino, Collio, Concesio, Irma, Gardone Val Trompia, Lodrino, Lumezzane, Marcheno, Marmentino, Nave, Pezzaze, Polaveno, Sarezzo, Tavernole sul Mella, Villa Carcina and the mountainous area of the Municipality of Gussago comprising the sub-divisions of Quarone and Civine.

5. Link with the geographical area

‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ PDO cheese is produced in a geographical environment characterised by steep slopes, narrow valley-floor meadows and hilly mountain pastures where wild meadow plants such as Dactylis glomerata, Festuca ovina, Poa annua, Phleum pratense, Trifolium montanum, etc. grow. These plants, which are eaten fresh by the animals (mainly of the brown (bruna) breed) while they are at pasture during summer mountain grazing or as hay during the rest of the year, contribute to the organoleptic characteristics of the milk, since their aromatic qualities are transmitted directly to the milk. The same geographical factors have led to the continuation of a productive context mainly characterised by small individual holdings that produce the milk and make it into cheese, which they then mature. In the Trompia Valley, the role of the livestock farmer who is also cheesemaker and affineur is thus perpetuated, guaranteeing a strong identity characterised by short-chain production. The family dimension of the business ensures the maintenance of the multiplicity of traditional practices in the Valley, such as producers’ ability to manufacture their own tools for making cheese or oiling the rind, and it is instrumental to the oral transmission of knowledge.

‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ PDO cheese has low moisture and fat content, which contributes to its hard – although not overly crumbly – consistency. The flavour has no perceptible acid notes, which is typical of the fermentation balance of the indigenous microflora of raw milk.

The paste of the cheese is straw yellow (partly as a result of the use of saffron) tending to yellow-green, while the rind is hard and varies in colour from yellow-brown to reddish, thanks to the oiling of the rind, which protects the cheese from an early, excessive loss of moisture.

The irregular, uneven topography has led to both the enforced fragmentation of production and a disincentive to industrial milk processing, causing the consolidation, over time, of methods of farm organisation where the fulcrum of the system is the small livestock holding that processes its own milk. Indeed, the complex topography, with mountain pastures situated more than 1 800 m above sea level, and the transport difficulties in the production area have always influenced the way in which the milk is collected and made into cheese, with these steps even now being carried out in buckets/churns and basins on the holdings that process their own milk. The combination of the factors linked to the distinctiveness of the geographical area and traditional processing techniques give the milk its specific character and thus contribute to the characteristics of ‘Nostrano Valtrompia’. Specifically, letting the milk settle so that the cream rises to the top for skimming allows a significant reduction in the fat content of the milk used for cheesemaking and at the same time contributes to the development in the milk of indigenous microflora that is important for the maturing processes and for the taste characteristics of the cheese. The combined action of the indigenous microflora present in the raw milk in the heating vat allows the proper acidification of the curd and, during maturing, helps to produce a significant quantity of peptides and free amino acids that influence the taste and flavour of the cheese by making it free of acid notes when tasted.

During the maturing period of ‘Nostrano Valtrompia’ PDO cheese, producers still use the traditional practice of oiling the cheese to prevent it from drying out too quickly (reaching the maximum moisture content of 36 % too soon), which negatively affects enzyme activity, thus compromising the characteristics of intense taste.

What is more, the long-standing practice of adding saffron to the milk or to the mix of whey and curd makes it possible to improve the appearance of the paste of the cheese which otherwise, owing to factors linked to the partial skimming of the milk and the cattle’s diet, might have too much of a green tinge.

In the Trompia Valley, the livestock farmer who also cheesemaker and affineur is the main player. In other words, a single figure is responsible for a large part of the production chain. In this context, use is made of shared techniques passed on from father to son.

The addition of saffron, the use of copper heating vats and utensils that are often made by the cheese-makers themselves, such as the spino (curd-cutter), rotella (stirrer) and spannarola (skimmer), and the use of linseed oil by the producers to oil the cheeses during maturing are evidence of the maintenance of the ancient method of milk processing that make it possible to obtain ‘Nostrano Valtrompia’, a cheese that is the expression of the human and agricultural culture of the production area.

Reference to publication of the product specification

(the second subparagraph of Article 6(1) of this Regulation)

The full text of the product specification can be consulted on the following website: http://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/3335

or alternatively:

by going directly to the home page of the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policy (www.politicheagricole.it) and clicking on ‘Qualità’ (at the top right of the screen), then on ‘Prodotti DOP IGP STG’ (on the left-hand side of the screen) and finally on ‘Disciplinari di Produzione all’esame dell’UE’.

(1) OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.