Tuesday 18 May 2010

P7_TC1-COD(2009)0006

Position of the European Parliament adopted at first reading on 18 May 2010 with a view to the adoption of Regulation (EU) No …/2010 of the European Parliament and of the Council on textile names and related labelling of textile products and repealing Council Directive 73/44/EEC, Directive 96/73/EC and Directive 2008/121/EC

(Text with EEA relevance)

THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND THE COUNCIL OF THE EUROPEAN UNION,

Having regard to the Treaty on the Functioning of the European Union, and in particular Article 114 thereof,

Having regard to the proposal from the European Commission,

Having regard to the opinion of the European Economic and Social Committee (1),

Acting in accordance with the ordinary legislative procedure (2),

Whereas:

Council Directive 73/44/EEC of 26 February 1973 on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to the quantitative analysis of ternary fibre mixtures (3) , Directive 96/73/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 16 December 1996 on certain methods for the quantitative analysis of binary textile fibre mixtures (4) and Directive 2008/121/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 14 January 2009 on textile names (recast) (5) , have been amended several times. Since further amendments are to be made, those acts should be replaced by a single legal instrument, in the interest of clarity.

The Union legislation on textile names and related labelling of textile products is very technical in its content, with detailed provisions that need to be adapted regularly. In order to avoid the need for Member States to transpose the technical amendments into national legislation and thus reduce the administrative burden for national authorities and in order to allow for a faster adoption of new textile fibre names to be applied at the same time throughout the Union , a Regulation appears to be the most appropriate legal instrument to carry out the legislative simplification.

In order to eliminate potential obstacles to the proper functioning of the internal market caused by diverging provisions of the Member States with regard to the names, composition and labelling of textile products, it is necessary to harmonise the names of textile fibres and the indications appearing on labels, markings and documents which accompany textile products at the various stages of their production, processing and distribution.

It is appropriate to lay down rules enabling the manufacturers to ask for the inclusion of a new textile fibre name on the list of permitted fibre names.

Provision should also be made in respect of certain products which are not made exclusively of textile materials but have a textile content which constitutes an essential part of the product or to which attention is specifically drawn by the economic operators .

The tolerance in respect of ‘ extraneous fibres’, which are not to be stated on the labels, should apply both to pure products and to mixtures.

Composition labelling should be compulsory to ensure correct information is made available to all consumers in the Union at a uniform level. Where it is technically difficult to specify the composition of a product at the time of manufacture, it should be possible to state, on the label, only those fibres which are known at the time of manufacture provided that they account for a certain percentage of the finished product.

In order to avoid differences in practice among the Member States, it is necessary to lay down the exact methods of labelling for certain textile products consisting of two or more components, and also to specify the components of textile products that need not be taken into account for purposes of labelling and analysis.

Textile products subject only to the requirements of inclusive labelling, and those sold by the metre or in cut lengths, should be made available on the market in such a way that the consumer can fully acquaint himself with the information affixed to the overall packaging or the roll.

The use of descriptions or names which enjoy particular prestige among users and consumers should be made subject to certain conditions. Furthermore, in order to provide information to users and consumers, it is appropriate that the textile fibre names are related to the characteristics of the fibre.

Market surveillance of products under the scope of this Regulation in the Member States is subject to the provisions of Directive 2001/95/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 3 December 2001 on general product safety (6) and those of Regulation (EC) No 765/2008 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 9 July 2008 setting out the requirements for accreditation and market surveillance relating to the marketing of products (7) .

It is necessary to lay down methods for the sampling and analysis of textile products in order to exclude any possibility of objections to the methods used. The methods used for official tests carried out in the Member States to determine the fibre composition of textile products composed of binary and ternary mixtures should be uniform, as regards both the pre-treatment of the sample and its quantitative analysis; therefore this Regulation should lay down uniform methods of analysis for most of the textile products composed of binary and ternary mixtures that are on the market. In order, however, to simplify this Regulation and adapt such uniform methods to technical progress, it is appropriate that the methods set out in this Regulation be turned into European standards. To that end, the Commission should organise the transition from the current system, where the methods are described in this Regulation, to a European standard-based system .

In the case of fibre mixtures for which there is no uniform method of analysis at Union level, the laboratory responsible for the test should be allowed to determine the composition of such mixtures ▐, indicating in the analysis report the result obtained, the method used and its degree of accuracy ▐.

This Regulation should set out the agreed allowances to be applied to the anhydrous mass of each fibre during the determination by analysis of the fibre content of textile products, and should give two different agreed allowances for calculating the composition of carded or combed fibres containing wool and/or animal hair. Since it cannot always be established whether a product is carded or combed, and consequently inconsistent results can arise from the application of the tolerances during checks on the conformity of textile products carried out in the Union , the laboratories carrying out those checks should be authorised to apply a single agreed allowance in cases of doubt.

Rules should be laid down in respect of products exempt from the general labelling requirements of this Regulation, in particular disposable products or products for which only inclusive labelling is required.

It is appropriate to establish a procedure , including specific requirements , to be observed by any manufacturer or any person acting on his behalf that wishes to include a new textile fibre name on the harmonised list of textile fibre names set out in Annex I.

In order to ensure that the objectives of this Regulation are attained while keeping pace with technical progress, the Commission should be empowered to adopt, in accordance with Article 290 of the Treaty on the Functioning of the European Union, delegated acts designed to supplement or amend non-essential elements of Annexes I, II, IV, V, VI, VII, VIII and IX to this Regulation.

In its resolution of 25 November 2009 on origin marking (8) , the European Parliament underlined that consumer protection requires transparent and consistent trade rules, including indications of origin. The aim of such indications should be to enable consumers to be fully aware of the exact origin of the products they purchase, so as to protect them against fraudulent, inaccurate or misleading claims of origin. Harmonised rules should be put in place for that purpose in respect of textile products. As regards imported products, those rules should take the form of mandatory labelling requirements. Concerning products not subject to mandatory origin labelling at Union level, provision should be made for rules ensuring that possible claims of origin are not false or misleading.

Origin labelling requirements provided for in this Regulation with regard to the specific sector of textile products should be without prejudice to ongoing discussions on a generally applicable regime of origin marking for products imported from third countries, to be set up as part of the Union*s common commercial policy.

Since the objectives of the action to be taken, that is the adoption of uniform rules for the use of textile names and related labelling of textile products, cannot be sufficiently achieved by the Member States and can therefore, by reason of the scale of the action, be better achieved at Union level, the Union may adopt measures, in accordance with the principle of subsidiarity as set out in Article 5 of the Treaty on European Union . In accordance with the principle of proportionality, as set out in that Article, this Regulation does not go beyond what is necessary in order to achieve those objectives.

Consumers, in order to be able to make informed choices, should know when purchasing a textile product whether such product comprises non-textile parts of animal origin. It is therefore essential to indicate on the label the presence of animal-derived materials.

This Regulation is limited to rules concerning the harmonisation of textile fibre names and the labelling of the fibre composition of textile products. In order to eliminate possible obstacles to the proper functioning of the internal market, caused by divergent provisions or practices of Member States, and in order to keep pace with the development of electronic commerce and future challenges in the market for textile products, the harmonisation or standardisation of other aspects of textile labelling should be examined. To that end, the Commission should submit a report to the European Parliament and the Council regarding possible new labelling requirements to be introduced at Union level with a view to facilitating the free movement of textile products in the internal market and achieving throughout the Union a high level of consumer protection. The report should examine in particular consumer views with regard to the amount of information that should be supplied on the label of textile products, and investigate which means other than labelling may be used to provide additional information to consumers. The report should be based on an extended consultation of all stakeholders, consumer surveys and a thorough cost/benefit analysis and should be accompanied, where appropriate, by legislative proposals. The report should examine, in particular, the added value to the consumer of possible labelling requirements in relation to care treatment, size, hazardous substances, flammability and environmental performance of the textile products, the use of language-independent symbols for identifying the textile fibres, social and electronic labelling as well as the inclusion of an identification number on the label to obtain additional on-demand information, especially via the Internet, about the characteristics of the products.

HAVE ADOPTED THIS REGULATION:

Chapter 1

General provisions

Article 1

Subject matter

This Regulation lays down rules concerning the use of textile fibre names, the labelling of textile products and the determination of the fibre composition of textile products by uniform methods of quantitative analysis, with a view to improving their free circulation in the internal market and providing accurate information to consumers .

Article 2

Scope

1. This Regulation shall apply to textile products.

For the purposes of this Regulation, the following products shall be treated in the same way as textile products :

products containing at least 80 % by weight of textile fibres;

furniture, umbrella and sunshade coverings containing at least 80 % by weight of textile components;

the textile components of multi-layer floor coverings, of mattresses and of camping goods, and warm linings of footwear, gloves, mittens and mitts, provided such parts or linings constitute at least 80 % by weight of the complete product;

textiles incorporated in other products and forming an integral part thereof, where their composition is specified.

2. The provisions of this Regulation shall not apply to textile products which:

are imported from third countries for inward processing;

are contracted out to persons working in their own homes, or to independent firms that make up work from materials supplied without the property therein being transferred for consideration;

Article 3

Definitions

1. For the purposes of this Regulation, the following definitions shall apply:

‘textile products’ means any raw, semi-worked, worked, semi-manufactured, manufactured, semi-made-up or made-up products which are exclusively composed of textile fibres, regardless of the mixing or assembly process employed;

flexible strips or tubes, of which the apparent width does not exceed 5 mm, including strips cut from wider strips or films, produced from the substances used for the manufacture of the fibres listed in table 2 in Annex I and suitable for textile applications;

a unit of matter characterised by its flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length to maximum transverse dimension, which render it suitable for textile applications;

‘the apparent width’ is the width of the strip or tube when folded, flattened, compressed or twisted, or the average width where the width is not uniform;

‘extraneous fibres’ are fibres other than those stated on the label;

‘lining’ means a separate item used in making-up garments and other products, consisting of a single layer or multiple layers of textile material loosely held in place along one or more of the edges;

‘ labelling ’ means indicating the required information on the textile product by attaching a label thereto, or by way of sewing, embroidering, printing, embossing or using any other technology of application;

‘inclusive labelling’ means a means of labelling whereby a single label is used for several textile products or components;

‘disposable products’ means textile products designed to be used once only or for a limited time, and the normal use of which precludes any restoring for subsequent use for the same or a similar purpose.

2. For the purposes of this Regulation, the definitions of ‘making available on the market’, ‘placing on the market’, ‘manufacturer’, ‘authorised representative’, ‘importer’, ‘distributor’, ‘economic operators’, ‘harmonised standard’‘market surveillance’ and ‘market surveillance authority’ in Regulation (EC) No 765/2008 shall apply.

Article 4

General rules

1. Textile products shall only be made available on the market if they are labelled or accompanied with commercial documents in compliance with the provisions of this Regulation.

2. Save as otherwise provided in this Regulation, national and Union rules on protection of industrial and commercial property, on indications of provenance, marks of origin and the prevention of unfair competition shall remain applicable to textile products .

Chapter 2

Textile fibre names and related labelling requirements

Article 5

Textile fibre names

1. Only the names of textile fibres listed in Annex I shall be used to indicate the fibre composition of textile products .

2. Use of the names listed in Annex I shall be reserved for fibres whose nature corresponds to the description set out in that Annex.

Those names shall not be used for other fibres, whether on their own or as a root or as an adjective.

The term ‘silk’ may not be used to indicate the shape or particular presentation in continuous yarn of textile fibres.

Article 6

Applications for new textile fibre names

Any manufacturer or any person acting on his behalf may apply to the Commission to add a new textile fibre name to the list set out in Annex I.

The application shall include a technical file compiled in accordance with Annex II.

Article 7

Pure products

1. Only textile products exclusively composed of the same fibre may be labelled as ‘100 %’, ‘pure’ or ‘all’.

Those or similar terms shall not be used for other products.

2. A textile product may be considered as exclusively composed of the same fibre if it contains no more than 2 % by weight of extraneous fibres, provided this quantity is justified as being technically unavoidable in good manufacturing practice and is not added as a matter of routine.

Under the same condition, a textile product, which has undergone a carding process, may be considered as exclusively composed of the same fibre if it contains no more than 5 % by weight of extraneous fibres.

Article 8

Wool products

1. A textile product may be labelled with one of the names referred to in Annex III provided that it is composed exclusively of a wool fibre which has not previously been incorporated in a finished product, which has not been subjected to any spinning and/or felting processes other than those required in the manufacture of that product, and which has not been damaged by treatment or use.

2. By way of derogation from paragraph 1, the names listed in Annex III may be used to describe wool contained in a fibre mixture if all the following conditions are complied with:

all the wool contained in that mixture satisfies the requirements defined in paragraph 1;

such wool accounts for not less than 25 % of the total weight of the mixture;

in the case of a scribbled mixture, the wool is mixed with only one other fibre.

The full percentage composition of such mixture shall be given.

3. The extraneous fibres in the products referred to in paragraphs 1 and 2, including wool products which have undergone a carding process, shall not exceed 0,3 % of their total weight and shall be justified as being technically unavoidable in good manufacturing practice .

Article 9

Multi-fibre textile products

1. A textile product shall be labelled with the name and percentage by weight of all constituent fibres in descending order .

2. By way of derogation from paragraph 1, and without prejudice to Article 7(2), fibres ▐ which individually account for up to 3 % of the total weight of the textile product, or fibres which collectively account for up to 10 % of the total weight, may be designated by the term ‘ other fibres ’, followed by their percentage by weight, provided that they cannot easily be stated at the time of the manufacture .

3. Products having a pure cotton warp and a pure flax weft, in which the percentage of flax accounts for at least 40 % of the total weight of the unsized fabric may be given the name ‘cotton linen union’ which must be accompanied by the composition specification ‘pure cotton warp — pure flax weft’.

4. Without prejudice to Article 5(1) , for textile products the composition of which cannot easily be stated at the time of their manufacture, the term ‘mixed fibres’ or the term ‘unspecified textile composition’ may be used on the label.

5. By way of derogation from paragraph 1, a fibre not included in Annex I may be designated by the term ‘other fibres’, followed by its total percentage by weight, provided that an application for the inclusion of such a fibre in Annex I has been submitted in accordance with Article 6.

Article 10

Decorative fibres and fibres with antistatic effect

Visible, isolable fibres which are purely decorative and do not exceed 7 % of the weight of the finished product need not be mentioned in the fibre compositions provided for in Articles 7 and 9.

The same shall apply to metallic fibres and other fibres which are incorporated in order to obtain an antistatic effect and which do not exceed 2 % of the weight of the finished product.

In the case of the products referred to in Article 9(3), such percentages shall be calculated on the weight of the warp and that of the weft separately.

Article 11

Animal-derived materials

1. Where a textile product comprises non-textile parts of animal origin, it shall bear a label stating that such parts are made of animal-derived materials. The labelling shall not be misleading and shall be presented in such a way that the consumer can easily understand to which part of the product the information on the label refers.

2. Member States shall inform the Commission of the analytical methods they use to identify animal-derived materials by … (9) , and subsequently whenever required in the light of new developments.

3. The Commission shall adopt delegated acts, in accordance with Articles 24, 25 and 26, specifying the detailed form of and modalities for the labelling on the textile products referred to in paragraph 1 and establishing the analytical methods to be used to identify animal-derived materials.

Article 12

Labelling

1. Textile products shall be labelled ▐ whenever they are made available on the market.

The labelling shall be easily accessible, visible and securely affixed to the textile product. It shall remain legible throughout the product's normal period of use. The labelling and the way in which it is affixed shall be carried out in such a way as to minimise discomfort caused to the consumer when wearing the product.

However, the labelling may be replaced or supplemented by accompanying commercial documents when the products are supplied to economic operators within the supply chain , or when they are delivered in performance of an order placed by any contracting authority as defined by Directive 2004/18/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 31 March 2004 on the coordination of procedures for the award of public works contracts, public supply contracts and public service contracts (10).

The names and descriptions referred to in Articles 5, 7, 8 and 9 shall be clearly indicated in such accompanying commercial documents.

Abbreviations shall not be used with the exception of a mechanised processing code, or where they are defined in internationally recognised standards, provided that the abbreviations are explained in the same commercial document.

2. When placing a textile product on the market, the manufacturer or, if the manufacturer is not established in the Union, the importer shall ensure the supply of the label and the accuracy of the information contained therein.

When making a textile product available on the market, the distributor shall ensure that it bears the appropriate labelling prescribed by this Regulation.

A distributor shall be considered a manufacturer for the purposes of this Regulation, where it makes a product available on the market under its own name or trademark, attaches the label or modifies the content of the label.

The economic operators referred to in the first and second subparagraphs shall ensure that any information supplied when textile products are made available on the market cannot be confused with the names and descriptions laid down by this Regulation.

Article 13

The use of names and descriptions

▐

1. When making a textile product available on the market, the names and fibre composition referred to in Articles 5, 7, 8 and 9 shall be indicated in catalogues and trade literature, on packaging and labelling in a manner that is easily accessible, visible and legible and in uniform letter/number size, style and font . That information shall be clearly visible to the consumer before the purchase, including in cases where the purchase is made by electronic means.

2. Trade marks or the name of the undertaking may be given immediately before or after names and descriptions referred to in Articles 5, 7, 8 and 9.

However, where a trade mark or a name of an undertaking contains, on its own or as an adjective or as a root, one of the names listed in Annex I or a name liable to be confused therewith, such trade mark or name shall be given immediately before or after names and descriptions referred to in Articles 5, 7, 8 and 9.

Other information shall be always displayed separately.

3. The labelling ▐ shall be available in any of the official languages of the Union which is easily understood by the end consumer in the Member State in which the textile products are made available. Where appropriate, the textile fibre names may be replaced by, or combined with, intelligible language-independent symbols .

In the case of bobbins, reels, skeins, balls or other small quantity of sewing, mending and embroidery yarns, the first subparagraph shall apply to the inclusive labelling referred to in Article 16(3). Where such products are individually sold to the end user, they may be labelled in any ▐ of the official languages of the Union, provided they also have an inclusive labelling . Where appropriate, the textile fibre names may be replaced by, or combined with, intelligible language-independent symbols .

The Commission shall adopt delegated acts, in accordance with Articles 24, 25 and 26, establishing detailed conditions concerning the use of the symbols referred to in this paragraph.

Article 14

Multi-component textile products

1. Any textile product containing two or more components shall bear a label stating the fibre content of each component.

Such labelling shall not be compulsory for components other than main linings and representing less than 30 % of the total weight of the product.

2. Where two or more textile products have the same fibre content and normally form a single unit, they may bear only one label.

Article 15

Special provisions

The fibre composition of products listed in Annex IV shall be indicated according to the labelling rules set out in that Annex.

Article 16

Derogations

1. By way of derogation from Articles 12, 13 and 14, the rules laid down in paragraphs 2, 3 and 4 of this Article shall apply.

In any case, the products referred to in paragraph 3 and 4 of this Article shall be made available on the market in such a way that the end consumer can fully acquaint himself with the composition of those products.

2. The indication of textile fibre names or fibre composition on the labels or marking of textile products listed in Annex V is not required.

However, where a trade mark or name of an undertaking contains, on its own or as an adjective or as a root, one of the names listed in Annex I or a name liable to be confused therewith, Articles 12, 13 and 14 shall apply.

3. Where textile products listed in Annex VI are of the same type and composition, they may be made available on the market together under an inclusive label.

4. The composition of textile products sold by the metre may be shown on the length or roll made available on the market .

Chapter 3

Market surveillance ▐

Article 17

Market surveillance provisions

1. ▐ Market surveillance authorities shall carry out checks on the conformity of the composition of textile products with the supplied information related to the composition of those products in accordance with this Regulation .

2. For the purpose of determining the fibre composition of textile products, the checks referred to in paragraph 1 shall be carried out in accordance with the methods or harmonised standards set out in Annex VIII.

For those purposes, the fibre percentages set out in Articles 7, 8 and 9 shall be determined by applying to the anhydrous mass of each fibre the appropriate agreed allowance laid down in Annex IX, after having removed the items set out in Annex VII.

In determining the fibre composition set out in Articles 7, 8 and 9, the items listed in Annex VII shall not be taken into account.

3. Any laboratory accredited and approved by the Member State authorities for the testing of textile mixtures for which there is no uniform method of analysis at Union level shall determine the fibre composition of such mixtures ▐, indicating in the analysis report the result obtained , the method used and ▐ the degree of accuracy of that method ▐.

Article 18

Tolerances

1. For the purposes of establishing the composition of textile products intended for the end consumer, the tolerances laid down in paragraphs 2, 3 and 4 shall apply.

2. The presence of extraneous fibres in the composition to be provided in accordance with Article 9 does not need to be indicated if the percentage of those fibres does not reach the following:

2 % of the total weight of the textile product, provided that this quantity is justified as being technically unavoidable in good manufacturing practice and is not added as a matter of routine;

under the same condition , 5 % of the total weight in the case of textile products which have undergone a carding process.

Point (b) of this paragraph shall be without prejudice to Article 8(3).

3. A manufacturing tolerance of 3 % shall be permitted between the stated fibre percentages to be provided in accordance with Article 9 and the percentages obtained from analysis carried out in accordance with Article 17, in relation to the total weight of fibres shown on the label. Such tolerance shall also apply to the following:

fibres which are listed with no indication of their percentage in accordance with Article 9(2);

For the purposes of the analysis, the tolerances shall be calculated separately. The total weight to be taken into account in calculating the tolerance referred to in this paragraph shall be that of the fibres of the finished product less the weight of any extraneous fibres found when applying the tolerance referred to in paragraph 2.

The addition of the tolerances referred to in paragraphs 2 and 3 shall be permitted only if any extraneous fibres found by analysis, when applying the tolerance referred to in paragraph 2, prove to be of the same chemical type as one or more of the fibres shown on the label.

4. In the case of particular products for which the manufacturing process requires tolerances higher than those laid down in paragraphs 2 and 3, higher tolerances may be authorised by the Commission when the conformity of the product is checked pursuant to Article 17(1) only in exceptional cases and where adequate justification is provided by the manufacturer.

The manufacturer shall submit a request providing sufficient reasons and evidence of the exceptional manufacturing circumstances.

Chapter 4

Indication of origin for textile products

Article 19

Indication of origin for textile products imported from third countries

1. For the purpose of this Article, the terms ‘origin’ or ‘originating’ shall refer to non-preferential origin in accordance with Articles 35 and 36 of Regulation (EC) No 450/2008 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 23 April 2008 laying down the Community Customs Code (Modernised Customs Code) (11).

2. The importation or placing on the market of textile products imported from third countries, except for those originating in Turkey and the Contracting Parties of the EEA Agreement, shall be subject to origin labelling under the conditions laid down in this Article.

3. The country of origin of textile products shall be indicated on the label of those products. In cases where products are packaged, the indication shall be made separately on the package. The indication of the country of origin may not be replaced by a corresponding indication in accompanying commercial documents.

4. The Commission may adopt delegated acts, in accordance with Articles 24, 25 and 26, to determine cases in which the indication of origin on the packaging shall be accepted in lieu of labelling of the products themselves. This may, in particular, be the case where products normally reach the end consumer or user in their usual packaging.

5. The words ‘made-in’ together with the name of the country of origin shall indicate the origin of textile products. The labelling may be made in any of the official languages of the European Union, which is easily understood by the end consumer in the Member State in which the products are to be made available on the market.

6. The origin labelling shall appear in clearly legible and indelible characters, shall be visible during normal handling, markedly distinct from other information, and shall be presented in a way which is neither misleading nor likely to create an erroneous impression with regard to the origin of the product.

7. Textile products shall bear the required labelling at the time of importation. Such labelling may not be removed or tampered with until the products have been sold to the end consumer or user.

Article 20

Indication of origin for other textile products

1. Where the origin of textile products other than those referred to in Article 19 is indicated on the label, such indication shall be subject to the conditions laid down in this Article.

2. The product shall be deemed to originate in the country where it underwent at least two of the following stages of manufacture:

3. The textile product may not be described on the labelling as entirely originating in a country unless it underwent in that country all the stages of manufacture referred to in paragraph 2.

4. The words ‘made-in’ together with the name of the country of origin shall indicate the origin of the product. The labelling may be made in any official language of the European Union, which is easily understood by the end consumer in the Member State in which the product is to be made available on the market.

5. The origin labelling shall appear in clearly legible and indelible characters, shall be visible during normal handling, markedly distinct from other information, and shall be presented in a way which is not misleading nor likely to create an erroneous impression with regard to the origin of the product.

Article 21

Delegated acts

The Commission may adopt delegated acts, in accordance with Articles 24, 25 and 26, in order to:

determine the detailed form of and modalities for the origin labelling;

establish a list of terms in all the official languages of the Union which clearly express that products originate in the country indicated in the labelling;

determine the cases where commonly used abbreviations unmistakably indicate the country of origin and can be used for the purpose of this Regulation;

determine the cases in which products cannot or need not be labelled for technical or economic reasons;

determine other rules that may be required when products are found not to comply with this Regulation.

Article 22

Common provisions

1. Textile products referred to in Article 19 shall be considered not to comply with this Regulation, if:

the origin labelling does not correspond to the origin of the products;

the origin labelling has being changed or removed, or has otherwise been tampered with, except where correction has been required pursuant to paragraph 5 of this Article.

2. Textile products other than those referred to in Article 19 shall be considered not to comply with this Regulation if:

the origin labelling does not correspond to the origin of the products;

the origin labelling has being changed or removed, or has otherwise been tampered with, except where correction has been required pursuant to paragraph 5 of this Article.

3. The Commission may adopt delegated acts, in accordance with Articles 24, 25 and 26, in relation to declarations and supporting documents that can be taken to demonstrate compliance with this Regulation.

4. The Member States shall lay down the rules on penalties applicable to infringements of the provisions of this Regulation and shall take all measures necessary to ensure that they are implemented. The penalties provided for must be effective, proportionate and dissuasive. The Member States shall notify those provisions to the Commission by … (12) , and shall notify it without delay of any subsequent amendment affecting them.

5. Where products are not in compliance with this Regulation, Member States shall furthermore adopt the measures necessary to require the owner of the products or any other person responsible for them to label those products in accordance with this Regulation and at their own expense.

6. Where necessary for the effective application of this Regulation, the competent authorities may exchange data received when controlling compliance with this Regulation, including with authorities and other persons or organisations which Member States have empowered pursuant to Article 11 of Directive 2005/29/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 11 May 2005 concerning unfair business-to-consumer commercial practices in the internal market (13).

Chapter 5

Final provisions

Article 23

Adaptation to technical progress

▐ Amendments to Annexes I, II, IV, V, VI, VII, VIII and IX which are necessary for adapting those Annexes to technical progress shall be adopted by the Commission by means of delegated acts in accordance with Article 24, subject to the conditions laid down in Articles 25 and 26 .

Article 24

Exercise of the delegation

1. The power to adopt the delegated acts referred to in Articles 11, 13, 19, 21, 22 and 23 shall be conferred on the Commission for a period of five years following … (14) . The Commission shall make a report in respect of the delegated powers at the latest six months before the end of the five year period. That report shall be accompanied, if necessary, by a legislative proposal for extending the duration of the delegation.

2. As soon as it adopts a delegated act, the Commission shall notify it simultaneously to the European Parliament and the Council.

Article 25

Revocation of the delegation

The delegation of power referred to in Articles 11, 13, 19, 21, 22 and 23 may be revoked at any time by the European Parliament or by the Council.

Article 26

Objections to delegated acts

1. The European Parliament or the Council may object to a delegated act within a period of three months from the date of notification.

At the initiative of the European Parliament or the Council this period shall be extended by two months.

2. If, on the expiry of the period referred to in paragraph 1, neither the European Parliament nor the Council has objected to the delegated act, or if both the European Parliament and the Council have informed the Commission that they do not intend to object, the act shall be published in the Official Journal of the European Union and shall enter into force on the date stated therein.

▐

Article 27

Reporting

By … (15), the Commission shall submit a report to the European Parliament and to the Council on the implementation of this Regulation, with an emphasis on the requests and adoption of new textile fibre names and submit, where justified, a legislative proposal .

Article 28

Review

1. By … (16), the Commission shall submit a report to the European Parliament and the Council regarding possible new labelling requirements to be introduced at Union level with a view to providing consumers with accurate, relevant, intelligible and comparable information on the characteristics of textile products. The report shall be based on an extended consultation of all stakeholders, consumer surveys, and a thorough cost/benefit analysis, and shall be accompanied, where appropriate, by legislative proposals. The report shall examine, inter alia, the following issues:

indication of any potentially allergenic or hazardous substances used in the manufacture or processing of textile products,

social labelling to inform consumers about the social conditions under which a textile product was produced,

warning labels with regard to the flammability performance of textile products, in particular high-fire-hazard clothing,

the inclusion of an identification number on the label which shall be used to obtain additional on-demand information about the product, for instance via Internet,

the use of language-independent symbols for identifying the fibres used for the manufacture of a textile product, enabling the consumer to easily understand its composition and, in particular, the use of natural or synthetic fibres.

2. By … (17) , the Commission shall carry out a study to assess whether substances used in the manufacture or processing of textile products may represent a hazard to human health. That study shall evaluate in particular whether there is a causal link between allergic reactions and synthetic fibres, colourings, biocides, preservatives or nanoparticles used in textile products. The study shall be based on scientific evidence and shall take into account the results of market surveillance activities. On the basis of the study, the Commission shall, where justified, present legislative proposals with a view to prohibiting or restricting the use of potentially hazardous substances used in textile products, in compliance with relevant EU legislation.

Article 29

Transitional provision

Textile products which are in compliance with the provisions of Directive 2008/121/EC and were placed on the market before … (18) may continue to be placed on the market until … (19)

Article 30

Repeal

Directives 73/44/EEC , 96/73/EC and 2008/121/EC shall be repealed with effect from … (20).

References to the repealed Directives shall be construed as references to this Regulation and shall be read in accordance with the correlation table in Annex X.

Article 31

Entry into force

This Regulation shall enter into force on the twentieth day following that of its publication in the Official Journal of the European Union.

This Regulation shall be binding in its entirety and directly applicable in all Member States.

(1) Opinion of 16 December 2009 (Not yet published in the Official Journal).

(2) Position of the European Parliament of 18 May 2010.

(3) OJ L 83, 30.3.1973, p. 1.

(4) OJ L 32, 3.2.1997, p. 1.

(5) OJ L 19, 23.1.2009, p. 29 .

(6) OJ L 11, 15.1.2002, p. 4.

(7) OJ L 218, 13.8.2008, p. 30 .

(8) Texts adopted, P7_TA(2009)0093.

(9) The date of entry into force of this Regulation.

(10) OJ L 134, 30.4.2004, p. 114 .

(11) OJ L 145, 4.6.2008, p. 1 .

(12) Nine months from the date of entry into force of this Regulation.

(13) OJ L 149, 11.6.2005, p. 22 .

(14) The date of entry into force of this Regulation.

(15) Three years from the date of entry into force of this Regulation.

(16) Two years from the date of entry into force of this Regulation.

(17) Two years from the date of entry into force of this Regulation.

(18) Six months from the date of entry into force of this Regulation.

(19) Two years and six months from the date of entry into force of this Regulation.

(20) The date of entry into force of this Regulation.

fibre formed of at least 85 % by mass of cross-linked macromolecules made up of melamine derivatives

fibre composed of at least 95 % (by mass) of macromolecules partially cross-linked, made up from ethylene and at least one other olefin and which, when stretched to one and a half times its original length and released, recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial length

fibre formed by interaction of two or more chemically distinct linear macromolecules in two or more distinct phases (of which none exceeds 85 % by mass) which contains ester groups as dominant functional unit (at least 85 %) and which, after suitable treatment when stretched to one and half times its original length and released, recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial length

fibres obtained from miscellaneous or new materials not listed above

name corresponding to the material of which the fibres are composed, e.g. metal (metallic, metallized), asbestos, paper, followed or not by the word ‘yarn’ or ‘fibre’

elastofibre composed of at least 85 % (by mass) of a segmented polyurethane, and which, when stretched to three times its original length and released, recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial length

elastofibre composed of natural or synthetic polyisoprene, or composed of one or more dienes polymerized with or without one or more vinyl monomers, and which, when stretched to three times its original length and released, recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial length

fibre formed of acrylonitrile terpolymer, a chlorinated vinyl monomer and a third vinyl monomer, none of which represents as much as 50 % of the total mass

fibre formed of linear macromolecules whose chain is constituted by poly(vinyl alcohol) with differing levels of acetalization

fibre formed of linear macromolecules having in the chain the recurring ureylene (NH—CO—NH) functional group

fibre formed of an aliphatic saturated hydrocarbon linear macromolecule where one carbon atom in two carries a methyl side chain in an isotactic disposition and without further substitution

fibre formed of linear macromolecules comprising at least 85 % (by mass) in the chain of an ester of a diol and terephthalic acid

fibre formed of linear macromolecules having in the chain at least 85 % (by mass) of lactic acid ester units derived from naturally occurring sugars, and which has a melting temperature of at least 135 °C

a regenerated cellulose fibre obtained by dissolution, and an organic solvent (mixture of organic chemicals and water) spinning process, without formation of derivatives

fibre formed from synthetic linear macromolecules made up of aromatic groups joined by amide or imide linkages, of which at least 85 % are joined directly to two aromatic rings and with the number of imide linkages, if the latter are present, not exceeding the number of amide linkages

fibre formed from synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain recurring amide linkages of which at least 85 % are joined to aliphatic or cycloaliphatic units

fibre formed of linear macromolecules having in the chain more than 50 % and less than 85 % (by mass) of the acrylonitrilic pattern

fibre formed of linear macromolecules having in their chain more than 50 % by mass of chlorinated vinyl or chlorinated vinylidene monomeric units

fibre formed of linear macromolecules comprising at least 85 % (by mass) in the chain of the acrylonitrilic pattern

cellulose acetate fibre wherein at least 92 % of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated

fibre obtained from natural protein substances regenerated and stabilized through the action of chemical agents

where T is the mean linear density in decitex

a regenerated cellulose fibre obtained by a modified viscose process having a high breaking force and high wet modulus. The breaking force (BC) in the conditioned state and the force (BM) required to produce an elongation of 5 % in the wet state are:

cellulose acetate fibre wherein less than 92 % but at least 74 % of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated

fibre obtained from the bast of Corchorus olitorius and Corchorus capsularis. For the purposes of this Regulation, bast fibres obtained from the following species shall be treated in the same way as jute: Hibiscus cannabinus, Hibiscus sabdariffa, Abultilon avicennae, Urena lobata, Urena sinuata

hair of the various animals not mentioned under 1 or 2

animal or horsehair, with or without an indication of the kind of animal (e.g. cattle hair, common goat hair, horsehair)

alpaca, llama, camel, kashmir, mohair, angora vicuna, yak, guanaco, cashgora, beaver, otter, followed or not by the name ‘wool’ or ‘hair’

Fibre from sheep's or lambs’ fleeces (Ovis aries) or a mixture of fibres from sheep’s or lambs’ fleeces and the hairs of animals listed in item 2

The manufacturer or its representative shall provide representative samples of the new pure fibre and the relevant fibre mixtures necessary to conduct the validation of the proposed identification and quantification methods, upon request of the Commission.

Results of tests conducted to assess possible allergenic reactions or other adverse effects of the new fibre on human health, in compliance with relevant EU legislation;

The application shall contain all the experimental data for the methods proposed. Data on the accuracy, robustness and repeatability of the methods shall be provided with the file.

If methods listed in this Regulation are not suitable, the applicant shall provide adequate reasoning and propose a new method.

The applicant shall evaluate the possibility to use the methods listed in Annex VIII to this Regulation to analyse the most expected commercial mixtures of the new fibre with other fibres and shall propose at least one of those methods. For those methods where the fibre can be considered as insoluble component, the applicant shall evaluate the mass correction factors of the new fibre. All the experimental data shall be submitted with the application.

Identification of the fibre: chemical formula, differences from existing fibres, together with, where relevant, detailed data such as melting point, density, refractive index, burning behaviour and FTIR spectrum;

The characteristics mentioned in the definition of the new fibre, such as for example elasticity, shall be verifiable via testing methods to be provided with the technical file along with the experimental results of analyses.

The name proposed shall be related to the chemical composition and shall provide information about the characteristics of the fibre, if appropriate. The name proposed shall be free of rights and shall not be linked to the manufacturer.

A technical file to propose a new textile fibre name for inclusion in Annex I, as referred to in Article 6, shall contain at least the following information:

MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS FOR A TECHNICAL FILE TO APPLY FOR A NEW TEXTILE FIBRE NAME

The composition may be stated for the use-surface alone. The use-surface must be mentioned by name

Floor coverings and carpets of which the backing and the use-surface are composed of different fibres

The fibre composition shall be given for the whole product and, where the product comprises a distinct backing and a use-surface composed of different fibres, may be stated separately for those components. Those components shall be mentioned by name

The fibre composition shall be given for the product as a whole and may be indicated by stating the composition of the core and the cover separately. Those components shall be mentioned by name

Yarns consisting of a core and a cover made up of different fibres and made available on the market as such to the consumer

The fibre composition shall be given for the product as a whole and may be indicated by stating, separately, the composition of the base fabric and that of the embroidery yarn. Those components shall be mentioned by name. Such labelling is compulsory only for the embroidered parts which amount to at least 10 % of the surface area of the product.

The fibre composition shall be given for the product as a whole and may be indicated by stating, separately, the composition of the base fabric and that of the etched parts. Those components shall be mentioned by name

The separate labelling of the various parts of corsetry products shall be carried out in such a way that the end consumer can easily understand to which part of the product the information on the label refers.

The fibre composition shall be indicated by stating the composition of the whole product or, either inclusively or separately, the composition of the various components of the products. Such labelling shall not be compulsory for components representing less than 10 % of the total weight of the product.

The outside and inside fabric of the cups, the front and rear stiffening panels and the side panels

The outside and the inside fabric of the cups and back

The fibre composition shall be indicated on the label by stating the composition of the whole product or, either inclusively or separately, that of the components listed respectively:

Air-supported structures (e.g. sports halls, exhibition stands or storage facilities), provided that details of the performances and technical specifications of these products are supplied

Textile products for protection and safety purposes such as safety belts, parachutes, life-jackets, emergency chutes, fire-fighting devices, bulletproof waistcoats and special protective garments (e.g. protection against fire, chemical substances or other safety hazards)

for incorporation in machines, installations (e.g. for heating, air conditioning or lighting), domestic and other appliances, vehicles and other means of transport, or for their operation, maintenance or equipment, other than tarpaulin covers and textile motor vehicle accessories sold separately from the vehicle

for use as equipment components in the manufacture and processing of goods;

Textile products subject to the rules of the European Pharmacopoeia and covered by a reference to those rules, non-disposable bandages for medical and orthopaedic use and orthopaedic textile products in general

Table mats having several components and a surface area of not more than 500 cm2

Hand-embroidered tapestries, finished or unfinished, and materials for their production, including embroidery yarns, sold separately from the canvas and specially presented for use in such tapestries

Containers which are soft and without foundation, saddlery, of textile materials

Packagings, not new and sold as such

Old made-up textile products, where explicitly stated to be such

PRODUCTS FOR WHICH LABELLING OR MARKING IS NOT MANDATORY

(1) For the products falling within this item and sold in cut lengths, the inclusive labelling shall be that of the reel. The cordage and ropes falling within this item include those used in mountaineering and water sports.

Sewing, mending and embroidery yarns presented for retail sale in small quantities with a net weight of 1 gram or less

Packing string and agricultural twine; string, cordage and ropes other than those falling within item 35 of Annex V (1)

PRODUCTS FOR WHICH ONLY INCLUSIVE LABELLING OR MARKING IS MANDATORY

‘stiffenings and reinforcements’ mean the yarns or materials added at specific and limited points of the textile products to strengthen them or to give them stiffness or thickness

the base or underlying material of textile products which serve as a backing for the use-surface, in particular in blankets and double fabrics, and the backings of velvet or plush fabrics and kindred products shall not be regarded as backings to be removed

Base or underlying fabrics, stiffenings and reinforcements, inter-linings and canvas backings, stitching and assembly threads unless they replace the warp and/or weft of the fabric, fillings not having an insulating function and, subject to Article 14(1), linings.

Textile products other than those under points b) to f)

Elastic yarns used in the belt and the stiffening and reinforcement yarns of the toe and the heel

Elastic yarns used in the cuff and the stiffening and reinforcement yarns of the toe and the heel

Binding and filling warps and wefts which do not form part of the right side of the fabric

Binding and filling warps and wefts which do not form part of the use-surface

Non-textile parts, selvedges, labels and badges, edgings and trimmings not forming an integral part of the product, buttons and buckles covered with textile materials, accessories, decorations, non-elastic ribbons, elastic threads and bands added at specific and limited points of the product

ITEMS NOT TO BE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT FOR THE DETERMINATION OF FIBRE PERCENTAGES

Tuesday 18 May 2010

ANNEX VIII

METHODS FOR THE QUANTITATIVE ANALYSIS OF BINARY AND TERNARY TEXTILE FIBRE MIXTURES

CHAPTER 1

I. Preparation of test samples and test specimens to determine the fibre composition of textile products

1. FIELD OF APPLICATION

This Chapter gives procedures for obtaining laboratory test samples of a suitable size for pre-treatment for quantitative analysis (i.e. of a mass not exceeding 100 g) from laboratory bulk samples, and for selecting test specimens from the laboratory test samples that have been pre-treated to remove non-fibrous matter (1).

2. DEFINITIONS

2.1. Bulk source— The quantity of material which is assessed on the basis of one series of test results. This may comprise, for example, all the material in one delivery of cloth; all the cloth woven from a particular beam; a consignment of yarn, a bale or a group of bales of raw fibre.

2.2. Laboratory bulk sample— The portion of the bulk source taken to be representative of the whole, and which is available to the laboratory. The size and nature of the laboratory bulk sample shall be sufficient to adequately overcome the variability of the bulk source and to facilitate ease of handling in the laboratory (2).

2.3. Laboratory test sample— That portion of the laboratory bulk sample that is subjected to pre-treatment to remove non-fibrous matter, and from which test specimens are taken. The size and nature of the laboratory test sample shall be sufficient to overcome adequately the variability of the laboratory bulk sample (3).

2.4. Test specimen— The portion of material required to give an individual test result, and selected from the laboratory test sample.

3. PRINCIPLE

The laboratory test sample is selected so that it is representative of the laboratory bulk sample.

The test specimens are taken from the laboratory test sample in such a way that each of them is representative of the laboratory test sample.

4. SAMPLING FROM LOOSE FIBRES

4.1. Unorientated fibres — Obtain the laboratory test sample by selecting tufts at random from the laboratory bulk sample. Mix thoroughly the whole of the laboratory test sample by means of a laboratory carder (4). Subject the web or mixture, including loose fibres and fibres adhering to the equipment used for mixing, to pre-treatment. Then select test specimens, in proportion to the respective masses, from the web or mixture, from the loose fibres and from the fibres adhering to the equipment. If the card web remains intact after pre-treatment, select the test specimens in the manner described in 4.2. If the card web is disturbed by the pre-treatment, select each test specimen by removing at random at least 16 small tufts of suitable and approximately equal size and then combine them.

4.2. Orientated fibres (cards, webs, slivers, rovings) — From randomly selected parts of the laboratory bulk sample cut not less than 10 crosssections each of mass approximately 1 g. Subject the laboratory test sample so formed to the pre-treatment. Recombine the cross-sections by laying them side by side and obtain the test specimen by cutting through them so as to take a portion of each of the 10 lengths.

5. SAMPLING YARN

5.1. Yarn in packages or in banks — Sample all the packages in the bulk laboratory sample. Withdraw the appropriate continuous equal lengths from each package either by winding skeins of the same number of turns on a wrap-reel (5), or by some other means. Unite the lengths side by side either as a single skein or as a tow to form the laboratory test sample, ensuring that there are equal lengths from each package in the skein or tow. Subject the laboratory test sample to the pre-treatment. Take test specimens from the laboratory test sample by cutting a bunch of threads of equal length from the skein or tow, taking care to see that the bunch contains all the threads in the sample. If the tex of the yarn is t and the number of packages selected from the laboratory bulk sample is n, then to obtain a test sample of 10 g, the length of yarn to be withdrawn from each package is 106/nt cm If nt is high, i.e. more than 2 000, wind a heavier skein and cut it across in two places to make a tow of suitable mass. The ends of any sample in the form of a tow shall be securely tied before pre-treatment and test specimens taken from a place remote from the tie bands.

5.2. Yarn on warp — Take the laboratory test sample by cutting a length from the end of the warp, not less than 20 cm long and comprising all the yarns in the warp except the selvedge yarns, which are rejected. Tie the bunch of threads together near one end. If the sample is too large for pre-treatment as a whole divide it into two or more portions, each tied together for pre-treatment, and reunite the portions after each has been pre-treated separately. Take a test specimen by cutting a suitable length from the laboratory test sample from the end remote from the tie band, and comprising all the threads in the warp. For warp of N threads of tex t, the length of a specimen of mass 1 g is 105/Nt cm.

6. SAMPLING FABRIC

6.1. From a laboratory bulk sample consisting of a single cutting representative of the cloth

Cut a diagonal strip from one corner to the other and remove the selvedges. This strip is the laboratory test sample. To obtain a laboratory test sample of x g, the strip area shall be x104/G cm2.

where G is the mass of the cloth in g/m2.

Subject the laboratory test sample to the pre-treatment and then cut the strip transversely into four equal lengths and superimpose them. Take test specimens from any part of the layered material by cutting through all the layers so that each specimen contains an equal length of each layer.

If the fabric has a woven design, make the width of the laboratory test sample, measured parallel to the warp direction, not less than one warp repeat of the design. If, with this condition satisfied, the laboratory test sample is too large to be treated as a whole, cut it into equal parts, pre-treat them separately, and superimpose these parts before selection of the test specimen, taking care that corresponding parts of the design do not coincide.

6.2. From a laboratory bulk sample consisting of several cuttings

Treat each cutting as described in 6.1, and give each result separately.

7. SAMPLING MADE-UP AND FINISHED PRODUCTS

The bulk laboratory sample is normally a complete made-up or finished product or representative fraction of one.

Where appropriate determine the percentage of the various parts of the product not having the same fibre content, in order to check compliance with Article 14.

Select a laboratory test sample representative of the part of the made-up or finished product, whose composition must be shown by the label. If the product has several labels, select laboratory test samples representative of each part corresponding to a given label.

If the product whose composition is to be determined is not uniform, it may be necessary to select laboratory test samples from each of the parts of the product and to determine the relative proportions of the various parts in relation to the whole product in question.

Then calculate the percentages taking into account the relative proportions of the sampled parts.

Subject the laboratory test samples to the pre-treatment.

Then select test specimens representative of the pre-treated laboratory test samples.

II. Introduction to the methods for the quantitative analysis of textile fibre mixtures

Methods for the quantitative analysis of fibre mixtures are based on two main processes, the manual separation and the chemical separation of fibres.

The method of manual separation shall be used whenever possible since it generally gives more accurate results than the chemical method. It can be used for all textiles whose component fibres do not form an intimate mixture, as for example in the case of yarns composed of several elements each of which is made up of only one type of fibre, or fabrics in which the fibre of the warp is of a different kind to that of the weft, or knitted fabrics capable of being unravelled made up of yarns of different types.

In general, the methods of chemical quantitative analysis are based on the selective solution of the individual components. After the removal of a component the insoluble residue is weighed, and the proportion of the soluble component is calculated from the loss in mass. This first part of the Annex gives the information common to the analyses by this method of all fibre mixtures dealt with in the Annex, whatever their composition. It shall thus be used in conjunction with the succeeding individual sections of the Annex, which contain the detailed procedures applicable to particular fibre mixtures. Occasionally, an analysis is based on a principle other than selective solution; in such cases full details are given in the appropriate section.

Mixtures of fibres during processing and, to a lesser extent, finished textiles may contain non-fibrous matter, such as fats, waxes or dressings, or water-soluble matter, either occurring naturally or added to facilitate processing. Non-fibrous matter must be removed before analysis. For this reason a method for removing oils, fats, waxes and water-soluble matter is also given.

In addition, textiles may contain resins or other matter added to confer special properties. Such matter, including dyestuffs in exceptional cases, may interfere with the action of the reagent on the soluble component and/or it may be partially or completely removed by the reagent. This type of added matter may thus cause errors and shall be removed before the sample is analysed. If it is impossible to remove such added matter the methods for quantitative chemical analysis given in this Annex are no longer applicable.

Dye in dyed fabrics is considered to be an integral part of the fibre and is not removed.

Analyses are conducted on the basis of dry mass and a procedure is given for determining dry mass.

The result is obtained by applying to the dry mass of each fibre the agreed allowances listed in Annex IX to this Regulation.

Before proceeding with any analysis, all the fibres present in the mixture shall have been identified. In some methods, the insoluble component of a mixture may be partially dissolved in the reagent used to dissolve the soluble component(s).

Where possible, reagents have been chosen that have little or no effect on the insoluble fibres. If loss in mass is known to occur during the analysis, the result shall be corrected; correction factors for this purpose are given. These factors have been determined in several laboratories by treating, with the appropriate reagent as specified in the method of analysis, fibres cleaned by the pre-treatment.

These correction factors apply only to undegraded fibres and different correction factors may be necessary if the fibres have been degraded before or during processing. The procedures given apply to single determinations.

At least two determinations on separate test specimens shall be made, both in the case of manual separation and in the case of chemical separation.

For confirmation, unless technically impossible, it is recommended to use alternative procedures whereby the constituent that was the residue in the standard method is dissolved out first.

CHAPTER 2

Methods for quantitative analysis of certain binary fibre mixtures

I. General information common to the methods given for the quantitative chemical analysis of textile fibre mixtures

I.1. Scope and field of application

The field of application for each method specifies to which fibres the method is applicable.

I.2. Principle

After the identification of the components of a mixture, the non-fibrous material is removed by suitable pre-treatment and then one of the components, usually by selective solution (6). The insoluble residue is weighed and the proportion of soluble component calculated from the loss in mass. Except where this presents technical difficulties, it is preferable to dissolve the fibre present in the greater proportion, thus obtaining the fibre present in the smaller proportion as residue.

I.3. Materials and equipment

I.3.1. Apparatus

I.3.1.1. Filter crucibles and weighing bottles large enough to contain such crucibles, or any other apparatus giving identical results.

I.3.1.2. Vacuum flask.

I.3.1.3. Desiccator containing self-indicating silica gel.

I.3.1.4. Ventilated oven for drying specimens at 105 ± 3 °C.

I.3.1.5. Analytical balance, accurate to 0,0002 g.

I.3.1.6. Soxhlet extractor or other apparatus giving identical results.

I.3.2. Reagents

I.3.2.1. Light petroleum, redistilled, boiling range 40 to 60 °C.

I.3.2.2. Other reagents are specified in the appropriate sections of each method. All reagents used should be chemically pure.

I.3.2.3. Distilled or deionized water.

I.3.2.4. Acetone.

I.3.2.5. Orthophosphoric acid.

I.3.2.6. Urea.

I.3.2.7. Sodium bicarbonate.

All reagents used shall be chemically pure.

I.4. Conditioning and testing atmosphere

Because dry masses are determined, it is unnecessary to condition the specimen or to conduct analyses in a conditioned atmosphere.

I.5. Laboratory test sample

Take a laboratory test sample that is representative of the laboratory bulk sample and sufficient to provide all the specimens, each of at least 1 g, that are required.

I.6. Pre-treatment of laboratory test sample (7)

Where a substance not to be taken into account in the percentage calculations (see Article 17 of this Regulation) is present, it shall first be removed by a suitable method that does not affect any of the fibre constituents.

For this purpose, non-fibrous matter which can be extracted with light petroleum and water is removed by treating the air-dry test sample in a Soxhlet extractor with light petroleum for one hour at a minimum rate of six cycles per hour. Allow the light petroleum to evaporate from the sample, which is then extracted by direct treatment consisting in soaking the specimen in water at room temperature for one hour and then soaking it in water at 65 ± 5 °C for a further hour, agitating the liquor from time to time. Use a liquor-specimen ratio of 100:1. Remove the excess water from the sample by squeezing, suction or centrifuging and then allow the sample to become air-dry.

In the case of elastolefin or fibre mixtures containing elastolefin and other fibres (wool, animal hair, silk, cotton, flax, true hemp, jute, abaca, alfa, coir, broom, ramie, sisal, cupro, modal, protein, viscose, acrylic, polyamide or nylon, polyester, elastomultiester) the procedure just described shall be slightly modified, in fact light petroleum ether shall be replaced by acetone.

In the case of binary mixtures containing elastolefin and acetate the following procedure shall apply as pre-treatment. Extract the specimen for 10 minutes at 80 °C with a solution containing 25 g/l of 50 % orthophosphoric acid and 50 g/l of urea. Use a liquor-specimen ratio of 100:1. Wash the specimen in water, then drain and wash it in a 0,1 % sodium bicarbonate solution, finally wash it carefully in water.

Where non-fibrous matter cannot be extracted with light petroleum and water, it shall be removed by substituting for the water method described above a suitable method that does not substantially alter any of the fibre constituents. However, for some unbleached, natural vegetable fibres (e.g. jute, coir) it is to be noted that normal pre-treatment with light petroleum and water does not remove all the natural non-fibrous substances; nevertheless additional pre-treatment is not applied unless the sample does contain finishes insoluble in both light petroleum and water.

Analysis reports shall include full details of the methods of pre-treatment used.

I.7. Test procedure

I.7.1. General instructions

I.7.1.1. Drying

Conduct all drying operations for not less than four hours and not more than 16 hours at 105 ± 3 °C in a ventilated oven with the oven door closed throughout. If the drying period is less than 14 hours, the specimen must be weighed to check that its mass has become constant. The mass may be considered to have become constant if, after a further drying period of 60 minutes, its variation is less than 0,05 %.

Avoid handling crucibles and weighing bottles, specimens or residues with bare hands during the drying, cooling and weighing operations.

Dry specimens in a weighing bottle with its cover beside it. After drying, stopper the weighing bottle before removing it from the oven, and transfer it quickly to the desiccator.

Dry the filter crucible in a weighing bottle with its cover beside it in the oven. After drying, close the weighing bottle and transfer it quickly to the desiccator.

Where apparatus other than a filter crucible is used, drying operations in the oven shall be conducted in such a way as to enable the dry mass of the fibres to be determined without loss.

I.7.1.2. Cooling

Conduct all cooling operations in the desiccator the latter placed beside the balance, until complete cooling of the weighing bottles is attained, and in any case for not less than two hours.

I.7.1.3. Weighing

After cooling, complete the weighing of the weighing bottle within two minutes of its removal from the desiccator. Weigh to an accuracy of 0,0002 g.

I.7.2. Procedure

Take from the pre-treated laboratory test sample a test specimen weighing at least 1 g. Cut yarn or cloth into lengths of about 10 mm, dissected as much as possible. Dry the specimen in a weighing bottle, cool it in the desiccator and weigh it. Transfer the specimen to the glass vessel specified in the appropriate section of the relevant Union method, reweigh the weighing bottle immediately and obtain the dry mass of the specimen by difference. Complete the test as specified in the appropriate section of the applicable method. Examine the residue microscopically to check that the treatment has in fact completely removed the soluble fibre.

I.8. Calculation and expression of results

Express the mass of the insoluble component as a percentage of the total mass of fibre in the mixture. The percentage of soluble component is obtained by difference. Calculate the results on the basis of clean, dry mass, adjusted by (a) the agreed allowances and (b) the correction factors necessary to take account of loss of matter during pre-treatment and analysis. Calculations shall be made by applying the formula given in I.8.2.

I.8.1. Calculation of percentage of insoluble component on clean, dry mass basis, disregarding loss of fibre mass during pre-treatment. where P1% is the percentage of clean, dry insoluble component, m is the percentage of dry mass of the test specimen after pre-treatment, r is the dry mass of the residue, d is the correction factor for loss in mass of the insoluble component in the reagent during the analysis. Suitable values for ‘d’ are given in the relevant section of each method. Of course, these values for ‘d’ are the normal values applicable to chemically undegraded fibres.

I.8.2. Calculation of percentage of insoluble component on clean, dry mass basis, with adjustment by conventional factors and, where appropriate, correction factors for loss of mass during pre-treatment where P1A% is the percentage of insoluble component adjusted by conventional agreed allowances and for loss in mass during pre-treatment, P1 is the percentage of clean dry insoluble component as calculated from the formula shown in I.8.1, a1 is the conventional agreed allowance for the insoluble component (see Annex IX), a2 is the conventional agreed allowance for the soluble component (see Annex IX), b1 is the percentage loss of insoluble component caused by pre-treatment, b2 is the percentage loss of soluble component caused by pre-treatment. The percentage of the second component is P2A% = 100 – P1A%. Where a special pre-treatment has been used, the values of b1 and b2 shall be determined, if possible, by submitting each of the pure fibre constituents to the pre-treatment applied in the analysis. Pure fibres are those free from all non-fibrous material except that which they normally contain (either naturally or because of the manufacturing process), in the state (unbleached, bleached) in which they are found in the material to be analysed. Where no clean separate constituent fibres used in the manufacture of the material to be analysed are available, average values of b1 and b2 as obtained from tests performed on clean fibres similar to those in the mixture under examination, shall be used. If normal pre-treatment by extraction with light petroleum and water is applied, correction factors b1 and b2 may generally be ignored, except in the case of unbleached cotton, unbleached flax and unbleached hemp, where the loss due to the pre-treatment is conventionally taken as 4 %, and in the case of polypropylene, where it is taken as 1 %. In the case of other fibres, losses due to the pre-treatment are conventionally disregarded in calculations.

II. Method of quantitative analysis by manual separation

II.1. Field of application

This method is applicable to textile fibres of all types provided they do not form an intimate mixture and that it is possible to separate them by hand.

II.2. Principle

After identification of the constituents of the textile, the non-fibrous material is removed by suitable pre-treatment and then the fibres are separated by hand, dried and weighed in order to calculate the proportion of each fibre in the mixture.

II.3. Apparatus

II.3.1. Weighing bottle or any other apparatus giving identical results.

II.3.2. Desiccator containing self-indicating silica gel.

II.3.3. Ventilated oven for drying specimens at 105 ± 3 °C.

II.3.4. Analytical balance, accurate to 0,0002 g.

II.3.5. Soxhlet extractor, or other apparatus giving an identical result.

II.3.6. Needle.

II.3.7. Twist tester or similar apparatus.

II.4. Reagents

II.4.1. Light petroleum, redistilled, boiling range 40 to 60 °C.

II.4.2. Distilled or deionized water.

II.5. Conditioning and testing atmosphere

See I.4.

II.6. Laboratory test sample

See I.5.

II.7. Pre-treatment of laboratory test sample

See I.6.

II.8. Procedure

II.8.1. Analysis of yarn

Select from the pre-treatment laboratory test sample a specimen of mass not less than 1 g. For a very fine yarn, the analysis may be made on a minimum length of 30 m, whatever its mass.

Cut the yarn into pieces of a suitable length and separate the fibre types by means of a needle and, if necessary, a twist tester. The fibre types so obtained are placed in pre-weighed weighing bottles and dried at 105 ± 3 °C until a constant mass is obtained, as described in I.7.1 and I.7.2.

II.8.2. Analysis of cloth

Select from the pre-treated laboratory test sample, well away from all selvedges, a specimen of mass not less than 1 g, with edges carefully trimmed to avoid fraying and running parallel with weft or warp yarns, or in the case of knitted fabrics in the line of wales and courses. Separate the different fibre types, collect them in pre-weighed weighing bottles and proceed as described in II.8.1.

II.9. Calculation and expression of results

Express the mass of each fibre constituent as a percentage of the total mass of the fibres in the mixture. Calculate the results on the basis of clean, dry mass, adjusted by (a) the agreed allowances and (b) the correction factors necessary to take account of loss of matter during pre-treatment.

II.9.1. Calculation of percentage masses of clean, dry fibre, disregarding loss of fibre mass during pre-treatment: P1% is the percentage of the first clean, dry component, m1 is the clean, dry mass of the first component, m2 is the clean, dry mass of the second component.

II.9.2. For calculation of the percentage of each component with adjustment by agreed allowances and, where appropriate, by correction factors for loss of matter during pre-treatment, see I.8.2.

III.1. Precision of the methods

The precision indicated in individual methods relates to the reproducibility.

The reproducibility refers to the reliability, i.e. the closeness of agreement between experimental values obtained by operators in different laboratories or at different times using the same method and obtaining individual results on specimens of an identical consistent mixture.

The reproducibility is expressed by confidence limits of the results for a confidence level of 95 %.

Therefore, the difference between two results in a series of analyses made in different laboratories would, given a normal and correct application of the method to an identical and consistent mixture, be exceeded only in five cases out of a 100.

III.2. Test report

III.2.1. State that the analysis was conducted in accordance with this method.

III.2.2. Give details of any special pre-treatment (see I.6).

III.2.3. Give the individual results and the arithmetic mean, each to an accuracy of 0,1.

IV. Special methods

SUMMARY TABLE

Method Field of application Reagent Soluble component Insoluble component 1. Acetate Certain other fibres Acetone 2. Certain protein fibres Certain other fibres Hypochlorite 3. Viscose, cupro or certain types of modal Cotton, elastolefin or melamine Formic acid and zinc chloride 4. Polyamide or nylon Certain other fibres Formic acid, 80 % m/m 5. Acetate Triacetate, elastolefin or melamine Benzyl alcohol 6. Triacetate or polylactide Certain other fibres Dichloromethane 7. Certain cellulose fibres Polyester, elastomultiester or elastolefin Sulphuric acid, 75 % m/m 8. Acrylics, certain modacrylics or certain chlorofibres Certain other fibres Dimethylformamide 9. Certain chlorofibres Certain other fibres Carbon disulphide/acetone, 55,5/44,5 v/v 10. Acetate Certain chlorofibres, elastolefin or melamine Glacial acetic acid 11. Silk Wool, hair, elastolefin or melamine Sulphuric acid, 75 % m/m 12. Jute Certain animal fibres Nitrogen content method 13. Polypropylene Certain other fibres Xylene 14. Certain other fibres Chlorofibres (homopolymers of vinyl chloride), elastolefin or melamine Concentrated sulphuric acid method 15. Chlorofibres, certain modacrylics, certain elastanes, acetates, triacetates Certain other fibres Cyclohexanone 16. Melamine Cotton or aramid Hot formic acid, 90 % m/m

METHOD No 1

ACETATE AND CERTAIN OTHER FIBRES

(Acetone method)

1. FIELD OF APPLICATION

This method is applicable, after removal of non-fibrous matter, to binary mixtures of:

1. acetate (19) with

2. wool (1), animal hair (2 and 3), silk (4), cotton (5), flax (7) true hemp (8), jute (9), abaca (10), alfa (11), coir (12), broom (13), ramie (14), sisal (15), cupro (21), modal (22), protein (23), viscose (25), acrylic (26), polyamide or nylon (30), polyester (35) elastomultiester (46), elastolefin (47) and melamine (48).

In no circumstances is the method applicable to acetate fibres which have been deacetylated on the surface.

2. PRINCIPLE

The acetate is dissolved out from a known dry mass of the mixture, with acetone. The residue is collected, washed, dried and weighed; its mass, corrected if necessary, is expressed as a percentage of the dry mass of the mixture. The percentage of dry acetate is found by difference.

3. APPARATUS AND REAGENTS (additional to those specified in the general instructions)

3.1. Apparatus

Glass-stoppered conical flasks of at least 200 ml capacity.

3.2. Reagent

Acetone.

4. TEST PROCEDURE

Follow the procedure described in the general instructions and proceed as follows:

To the specimen contained in a glass-stoppered conical flask of at least 200 ml capacity, add 100 ml of acetone per gram of specimen, shake the flask, stand it for 30 minutes at room temperature, stirring from time to time, and then decant the liquid through the weighed filter crucible.

Repeat the treatment twice more (making three extractions in all), but for periods of 15 minutes only, so that the total time of treatment in acetone is one hour. Transfer the residue to the filter crucible. Wash the residue in the filter crucible with acetone and drain with suction. Refill the crucible with acetone and allow to drain under gravity.

Finally, drain the crucible with suction, dry the crucible and residue, and cool and weigh them.

5. CALCULATION AND EXPRESSION OF RESULTS

Calculate the results as described in the general instructions. The value of ‘d’ is 1,00, except for melamine, for which ‘d’ = 1,01.

6. PRECISION

On a homogeneous mixture of textile materials, the confidence limits of results obtained by this method are not greater than ± 1 for a confidence level of 95 %.

METHOD No 2

CERTAIN PROTEIN FIBRES AND CERTAIN OTHER FIBRES

(Method using hypochlorite)

1. FIELD OF APPLICATION

This method is applicable, after removal of non-fibrous matter, to binary mixtures of:

1. certain protein fibres, namely: wool (1), animal hair (2 and 3), silk (4), protein (23) with

2. cotton (5), cupro (21), viscose (25), acrylic (26), chlorofibres (27), polyamide or nylon (30), polyester (35), polypropylene (37), elastane (43), glass fibre (44) elastomultiester (46), elastolefin (47) and melamine (48).

If different protein fibres are present, the method gives the total of their amounts but not their individual quantities.

2. PRINCIPLE

The protein fibre is dissolved out from a known dry mass of the mixture, with a hypochlorite solution. The residue is collected, washed, dried and weighed; its mass, corrected if necessary, is expressed as a percentage of the dry mass of the mixture. The percentage of dry protein fibre is found by difference.

Either lithium hypochlorite or sodium hypochlorite can be used for the preparation of the hypochlorite solution.

Lithium hypochlorite is recommended in cases involving a small number of analyses or for analyses conducted at fairly lengthy intervals. This is because the percentage of hypochlorite in solid lithium hypochlorite — unlike that in sodium hypochlorite — is virtually constant. If the percentage of hypochlorite is known, hypochlorite content need not be checked iodometrically for each analysis, since a constant weighed portion of lithium hypochlorite can be employed.

3. APPARATUS AND REAGENTS (other than those specified in the general instructions)

3.1. Apparatus

(i) Erlenmeyer flask with ground-glass stopper, 250 ml.

(ii) Thermostat, adjustable to 20 (± 2) °C.

3.2. Reagents

(i) Hypochlorite reagent

(a) Lithiumhypochloritesolution

This consists of a freshly prepared solution containing 35 (± 2) g/l of active chlorine (approximately 1 M), to which 5 (± 0,5) g/l of previously dissolved sodium hydroxide is added. To prepare, dissolve 100 grams of lithium hypochlorite containing 35 % active chlorine (or 115 grams containing 30 % active chlorine) in approximately 700 ml of distilled water, add 5 grams of sodium hydroxide dissolved in approximately 200 ml of distilled water and make up to 1 litre with distilled water. The solution which has been freshly prepared need not be checked iodometrically.

(b) Sodiumhypochloritesolution

This consists of a freshly prepared solution containing 35 (± 2) g/l of active chlorine (approximately 1 M) to which 5 (± 0,5) g/l of previously dissolved sodium hydroxide is added.

Check the active chlorine content of the solution iodometrically before each analysis.

(ii) Acetic acid, dilute solution

Dilute 5 ml of glacial acetic acid to 1 litre with water.

4. TEST PROCEDURE

Follow the procedure described in the general instructions and proceed as follows: mix approximately 1 gram of the sample with approximately 100 ml of the hypochlorite solution (lithium or sodium hypochlorite) in the 250 ml flask and agitate thoroughly in order to wet out the sample.

Then heat the flask for 40 minutes in a thermostat at 20 °C and agitate continuously, or at least at regular intervals. Since the dissolution of the wool proceeds exothermically, the reaction heat of this method must be distributed and removed. Otherwise, considerable errors may be caused by the incipient dissolution of the non-soluble fibres.

After 40 minutes, filter the flask contents through a weighed glass-filter crucible and transfer any residual fibres into the filter crucible by rinsing the flask with a little hypochlorite reagent. Drain the crucible with suction and wash the residue successively with water, dilute acetic acid, and finally water, draining the crucible with suction after each addition. Do not apply suction until each washing liquor has drained under gravity.

Finally, drain the crucible with suction, dry the crucible with the residue, and cool and weigh them.

5. CALCULATION AND EXPRESSION OF RESULTS

Calculate the results as described in the general instructions. The value of ‘d’ is 1,00, except for cotton, viscose, modal and melamine for which ‘d’ = 1,01, and unbleached cotton, for which ‘d’ = 1,03.

6. PRECISION

On homogeneous mixtures of textile materials, the confidence limits for results obtained by this method are not greater than ± 1 for a confidence level of 95 %.

METHOD No 3

VISCOSE, CUPRO OR CERTAIN TYPES OF MODAL AND COTTON

(Method using formic acid and zinc chloride)

1. FIELD OF APPLICATION

This method is applicable, after removal of non-fibrous matter, to binary mixtures of:

1. viscose (25) or cupro (21), including certain types of modal fibre (22), with

2. cotton (5), elastolefin (47) and melamine (48).

If a modal fibre is found to be present, a preliminary test shall be carried out to see whether it is soluble in the reagent.

This method is not applicable to mixtures in which the cotton has suffered extensive chemical degradation nor when the viscose or cupro is rendered incompletely soluble by the presence of certain dyes or finishes that cannot be removed completely.

2. PRINCIPLE

The viscose, cupro or modal fibre is dissolved from a known dry mass of the mixture, with a reagent consisting of formic acid and zinc chloride. The residue is collected, washed, dried and weighed; its corrected mass is expressed as a percentage of the dry mass of the mixture. The percentage of dry viscose, cupro or modal fibre is found by difference.

3. APPARATUS AND REAGENTS (other than those specified in the general instructions)

3.1. Apparatus

(i) Glass-stoppered conical flasks of at least 200 ml capacity.

(ii) Apparatus for maintaining flasks at 40 (± 2) °C.

3.2. Reagents

(i) Solution containing 20 g of fused anhydrous zinc chloride and 68 g of anhydrous formic acid made up to 100 g with water (namely 20 parts by mass of fused anhydrous zinc chloride to 80 parts by mass of 85 % m/m formic acid). NB: Attention is drawn, in this respect, to point I.3.2.2, which lays down that all reagents used shall be chemically pure; in addition, it is essential to use only fused anhydrous zinc chloride.

(ii) Ammonium hydroxide solution: dilute 20 ml of a concentrated ammonia solution (specific gravity 0,880 g/ml) to 1 litre with water.

4. TEST PROCEDURE

Follow the procedure described in the general instructions and proceed as follows: place the specimen immediately in the flask, pre-heated to 40 °C. Add 100 ml of the solution of formic acid and zinc chloride, pre-heated to 40 °C per gram of specimen. Insert the stopper and shake the flask vigorously. Keep the flask and its contents at a constant temperature of 40 °C for two hours and a half, shaking the flask at hourly intervals.

Filter the contents of the flask through the weighed filter crucible and with the help of the reagent transfer to the crucible any fibres remaining in the flask. Rinse with 20 ml of reagent.

Wash crucible and residue thoroughly with water at 40 °C. Rinse the fibrous residue in approximately 100 ml of cold ammonia solution (3.2.ii) ensuring that this residue remains wholly immersed in the solution for 10 minutes; then rinse thoroughly with cold water.

Do not apply suction until each washing liquor has drained under gravity.

Finally, drain the remaining liquid with suction, dry the crucible and residue, and cool and weigh them.

5. CALCULATION AND EXPRESSION OF RESULTS

Calculate the results as described in the general instructions. The value of ‘d’ is 1,02 for cotton, 1,01 for melamine and 1,00 for elastolefin.

6. PRECISION

On a homogeneous mixture of textile materials, the confidence limits of results obtained by this method are not greater than ± 2 for a confidence level of 95 %.

METHOD No 4

POLYAMIDE OR NYLON, AND CERTAIN OTHER FIBRES

(Method using 80 % m/m formic acid)

1. FIELD OF APPLICATION

This method is applicable, after removal of non-fibrous matter, to binary mixtures of:

1. polyamide or nylon, (30), with

2. wool (1), animal hair (2 and 3), cotton (5), cupro (21), modal (22), viscose (25), acrylic (26), chlorofibre (27), polyester (35), polypropylene (37), glass fibre (44), elastomultiester (46), elastolefin (47) and melamine (48).

As mentioned above, this method is also applicable to mixtures with wool, but when the wool content exceeds 25 %, method No 2 shall be applied (dissolving wool in a solution of alkaline sodium hypochlorite).

2. PRINCIPLE

The polyamide fibre is dissolved out from a known dry mass of the mixture, with formic acid. The residue is collected, washed, dried and weighed; its mass, corrected if necessary, is expressed as a percentage of the dry mass of the mixture. The percentage of dry polyamide or nylon is found by difference.

3. APPARATUS AND REAGENTS (other than those specified in the general instructions)

3.1. Apparatus

Glass-stoppered conical flask of at least 200 ml capacity.

3.2. Reagents

(i) Formic acid (80 % m/m, relative density at 20 °C: 1,186). Dilute 880 ml of 90 % m/m formic acid (relative density at 20 °C: 1,204) to 1 litre with water. Alternatively, dilute 780 ml of 98 to 100 % m/m formic acid (relative density at 20 °C: 1,220) to 1 litre with water. The concentration is not critical within the range 77 to 83 % m/m formic acid.

(ii) Ammonia, dilute solution: dilute 80 ml of concentrated ammonia solution (relative density at 20 °C: 0,880) to 1 litre with water.

4. TEST PROCEDURE

Follow the procedure described in the general instructions and proceed as follows: to the specimen contained in the conical flask of at least 200 ml capacity, add 100 ml of formic acid per gram of specimen. Insert the stopper, shake the flask to wet out the specimen. Stand the flask for 15 minutes at room temperature, shaking it at intervals. Filter the contents of the flask through the weighed filter crucible and transfer any residual fibres to the crucible by washing out the flask with a little formic acid reagent.

Drain the crucible with suction and wash the residue on the filter successively with formic acid reagent, hot water, dilute ammonia solution, and finally cold water, draining the crucible with suction after each addition. Do not apply suction until each washing liquor has drained under gravity.

Finally, drain the crucible with suction, dry the crucible and residue, and cool and weigh them.

5. CALCULATION AND EXPRESSION OF RESULTS

Calculate the results as described in the general instructions. The value of ‘d’ is 1,00, except for melamine, for which ‘d’ = 1,01.

6. PRECISION

On a homogeneous mixture of textile materials, the confidence limits of results obtained by this method are not greater than ± 1 for a confidence level of 95 %.

METHOD No 5

ACETATE AND TRIACETATE

(Method using benzyl alcohol)

1. FIELD OF APPLICATION

This method is applicable, after removal of non-fibrous matter, to binary mixtures of:

— acetate (19) with

— triacetate (24), elastolefin (47) and melamine (48).

2. PRINCIPLE

The acetate fibre is dissolved out from a known dry mass of the mixture, with benzyl alcohol at 52 ± 2 °C.

The residue is collected, washed, dried and weighed; its mass is expressed as a percentage of the dry mass of the mixture. The percentage of dry acetate is found by difference.

3. APPARATUS AND REAGENTS (other than those specified in the general instructions)

3.1. Apparatus

(i) Glass-stoppered conical flask of at least 200 ml capacity.

(ii) Mechanical shaker.

(iii) Thermostat or other apparatus for keeping the flask at a temperature of 52 ± 2 °C.

3.2. Reagents

(i) Benzyl alcohol.

(ii) Ethanol.

4. TEST PROCEDURE

Follow the procedure described in the general instructions and proceed as follows:

To the specimen contained in the conical flask, add 100 ml of benzyl alcohol per gram of specimen. Insert the stopper, secure the flask to the shaker so that it is immersed in the water-bath, kept at 52 ± 2 °C, and shake for 20 minutes at this temperature. (Instead of using a mechanical shaker, the flask may be shaken vigorously by hand).

Decant the liquid through the weighed filter crucible. Add a further dose of benzyl alcohol in the flask and shake as before at 52 ± 2 °C for 20 minutes.

Decant the liquid through the crucible. Repeat the cycle of operations a third time.

Finally pour the liquid and the residue into the crucible; wash any remaining fibres from the flask into the crucible with an extra quantity of benzyl alcohol at 52 ± 2 °C. Drain the crucible thoroughly.

Transfer the fibres into a flask, rinse with ethanol and after shaking manually decant through the filter crucible.

Repeat this rinsing operation two or three times. Transfer the residue into the crucible and drain thoroughly. Dry the crucible and the residue and cool and weigh them.

5. CALCULATION AND EXPRESSION OF RESULTS

Calculate the results as described in the general instructions. The value of ‘d’ is 1,00, except for melamine, for which ‘d’ = 1,01.

6. PRECISION

On a homogeneous mixture of textile materials, the confidence limits of results obtained by this method are not greater than ± 1 for a confidence level of 95 %.

METHOD No 6

TRIACETATES AND CERTAIN OTHER FIBRES

(Method using dichloromethane)

1. FIELD OF APPLICATION

This method is applicable, after removal of non-fibrous matter, to binary mixtures of:

1. triacetate (24) or polylactide (34) with

2. wool (1), animal hair (2 and 3), silk (4), cotton (5), (21), modal (22), viscose (25), acrylic (26), polyamide or nylon (30), polyester (35), glass fibre (44) elastomultiester (46), elastolefin (47) and melamine (48).

Note:

Triacetate fibres which have received a finish leading to partial hydrolysis cease to be completely soluble in the reagent. In such cases, the method is not applicable.

2. PRINCIPLE

The triacetate or polylactide fibres are dissolved out from a known dry mass of the mixture, with dichloromethane. The residue is collected, washed, dried and weighed; its mass, corrected if necessary, is expressed as a percentage of the dry mass of the mixture. The percentage of dry triacetate or polylactide is found by difference.

3. APPARATUS AND REAGENTS (other than those specified in the general instructions)

3.1. Apparatus

Glass-stoppered conical flask of at least 200 ml capacity.

3.2. Reagent

Dichloromethane.

4. TEST PROCEDURE

Follow the procedure described in the general instructions and proceed as follows:

To the specimen contained in the 200 ml glass-stoppered conical flask, add 100 ml of dichloromethane per gram of specimen, insert the stopper, shake the flask every 10 minutes to wet out the specimen and stand for 30 minutes at room temperature, shaking the flask at regular intervals. Decant the liquid through the weighed filter crucible. Add 60 ml of dichloromethane to the flask containing the residue, shake manually and filter the contents of the flask through the filter crucible. Transfer the residual fibres to the crucible by washing out the flask with a little more dichloromethane. Drain the crucible with suction to remove excess liquid, refill the crucible with dichloromethane and allow it to drain under gravity.

Finally, apply suction to eliminate excess liquid, then treat the residue with boiling water to eliminate all the solvent, apply suction, dry the crucible and residue, cool and weigh them.

5. CALCULATION AND EXPRESSION OF RESULTS

Calculate the results as described in the general instructions. The value of ‘d’ is 1,00, except in the case of polyester, elastomultiester, elastolefin and melamine for which the value of ‘d’ is 1,01.

6. PRECISION

On a homogeneous mixture of textile materials, the confidence limits of results obtained by t