EN Official Journal of the European Union C 180/16

Publication of an application for registration pursuant to Article 8(2) of Council Regulation (EC) No 509/2006 on agricultural products and foodstuffs as traditional specialities guaranteed

2012/C 180/11

This publication confers the right to object to the application pursuant to Article 9 of Council Regulation (EC) No 509/2006 (1). Statements of objection must reach the Commission within six months of the date of this publication.

APPLICATION FOR REGISTRATION AS A TRADITIONAL SPECIALITY GUARANTEED

COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 509/2006

‘TEPERTŐS POGÁCSA’

EC No: HU-TSG-0007-0060-27.09.2010

1. Name and address of the applicant group:

Name: Magyar Pékek Fejedelmi Rendje (Principal Order of Hungarian Bakers) Address: Komárom Dunapart u. 1. 2900 MAGYARORSZÁG/HUNGARY Tel. +36 302604274 Fax — E-mail: nardaianita@gmail.com

2. Member State or Third Country:

Hungary

3. Product specification:

3.1. Name to be registered:

‘Tepertős pogácsa’

When placing the product on the market the label may contain the following information: ‘produced in accordance with Hungarian traditions’. The information will be translated into other official languages.

3.2. Whether the name:

 is specific in itself ☒ expresses the specific character of the agricultural product or foodstuff

The adjective ‘tepertős’ in the denomination describes the ‘tepertő’ (pork crackling) that remains after fat bacon has been fried, which, following chopping, provides in creamy form the characteristic basic material of the round savoury bakery product.

3.3. Is reservation of the name sought under Article 13(2) of Regulation (EC) No 509/2006?:

 Registration with reservation of the name ☒ Registration without reservation of the name

3.4. Type of product:

Class 2.3 — Confectionery, bread, pastry, cakes, biscuits and other bakers’ wares

3.5. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff to which the name under point 3.1 applies:

‘Tepertős pogácsa’ is a round, cylindrically shaped savoury bakery product seasoned with salt and pepper, with a diameter of 3-5 cm and weight of 25-50 g. It contains chopped pork crackling and pig fat, it is leavened with yeast and the texture may be short or flaky (‘mille-feuille’ structure). The surface is reddish brown and scored into squares. The underside is flat and reddish brown. It contains the pieces of pork crackling evenly distributed. The short variety may be broken into pieces, while the flaky variety has a loose, multi-layered structure. It tastes of roasted pork cracklings and has a pleasantly salty, mildly peppered flavour. The fat content, by weight, in the dry matter is 20-30 % and the product contains 25-40 % pork cracklings by weight, in the flour. At least 60 % of the fat content comes from the pork cracklings.

Organoleptic characteristics

Short ‘tepertős pogácsa’ Flaky ‘tepertős pogácsa’ Shape Round, evenly cylindrical Round cylindrical, may ‘tilt’ slightly Crust The top is shiny, reddish brown and densely scored with squares. The side is sand coloured and mat and the bottom is reddish brown and mat. Internal structure Short texture but not crumbly. The crackling pieces are evenly distributed and are slightly brownish in colour. Mille-feuille structure, the layers can be separated and the pieces of the crackling are visible within the layers, slightly brownish in colour. Taste Characteristic of the crackling, it has a pleasantly salty, mildly peppered taste. Aroma Characteristic of the crackling and the pig fat, peppery.

Physical and chemical characteristics

— Fat content: the fat content of the finished product by weight in the dry matter is 20-30 % (m/m)

— Salt content: the salt content of the product by weight in the dry matter is maximum 4,0 % (m/m)

3.6. Description of the production method for the agricultural product or foodstuff to which the name under 3.1 applies:

Starting materials

For the crackling cream:

— Pork crackling without the skin: 70-75 % of the crackling cream, the fried piece of lard remaining after the fat bacon with little or no meat has been fried.

— Pig fat: 25-30 % of the crackling cream, the fat remaining after the fat bacon with little or no meat has been fried.

Preparation of the dough: wheat flour (BL55 or BL80) or spelt flour, egg, egg yolk, milk, yeast, white wine or vinegar, sour cream, salt and pepper.

It is forbidden to use any kind of food additives (e.g. raising agents or preservatives) to prepare ‘tepertős pogácsa’.

Method of production:

Depending on the method of production, the ‘tepertős pogácsa’ may be the flaky or the short variety.

Production of short ‘tepertős pogácsa’

Phase I: preparation of the crackling cream

The fresh, skinless cracklings are flattened with a rolling-pin until no big or coarse pieces remain and the roasted pieces are evenly distributed in the cream. The crackling may be minced with a meat mincer, in which case the finest setting must be used.

The cream and the pig fat are mixed with a wooden spoon or mixer. An important requirement is that no additives, preservatives, goose crackling, vegetable fat or margarine may be used to prepare the crackling cream, only fresh, skinless cracklings.

Crackling cream produced industrially must also meet the requirements on crackling cream.

Phase II: preparation of the dough

250-400 grams of crackling cream are rubbed into each kilogram of wheat flour to form an even mixture. The crackling cream must cover the flour particles, which is an essential condition for the short texture. All ingredients, that is flour mixed with the crackling cream, 5 % yeast activated in milk for each kilogram of flour, one egg, one egg yolk, 0,02 % white wine or vinegar, 2,5 % salt, 0,001 % ground pepper and enough sour cream to obtain a relatively hard dough, are kneaded together. Kneading is continued until the dough binds together. The required short texture will not be achieved if the dough is over-kneaded.

Because of the high fat content of the product, the dough is made from cold ingredients and it must rest in a cool place until the dough’s internal temperature reaches 26 °C. The nature of the product also allows the dough to be put into a refrigerator at + 5-+ 8 °C and left for at least three hours.

The risen and cooled dough is rolled out in a finger-thick layer and the top is scored with dense perpendicular lines. This may be done with knives assembled together at a distance of 3 mm from each other. The scones are cut out with a scone form of 3-6 cm diameter. The scone shapes should be even and, as far as absolutely possible, cylindrical. The final shape is reached by rolling the dough with the palm heel. The number of scones necessary to fill the oven tray are placed close to each other on the board and are brushed with beaten egg, without allowing it to run down the sides. When the egg has dried on the surface the scones are placed, evenly spaced, on the tray. The shapeless pieces can be kneaded together a maximum of twice with as little contact as possible and, after letting the dough rest, they may be used later.

The scones are left to rise for 50-55 minutes, then baked in a hot oven at 220-240 °C for 12-15 minutes.

The scones are sold without packing (loose) or pre-packed.

Production of flaky ‘tepertős pogácsa’

Phase I: preparation of the crackling cream

The preparation of the crackling cream is similar to that used for the short variety, the only difference being that, in addition to fat and skinless pork crackling, 1,5 % salt (by weight of the flour) and finely ground pepper (0,001 % by weight of the flour) is added. Salt is added at this stage because, if the amount of salt necessary for the characteristically salty taste of the scones was added only when preparing the dough, the dough would break up and the ‘mille-feuille’ structure would not develop.

In this case, of the quantity of fat indicated for the preparation of the crackling cream, 50 %, i.e. half, is added to the crackling cream and the other half to the dough.

Phase II: preparation of the dough

The so-called basic dough is prepared with the fat set aside when the crackling cream is prepared, salt (approximately 1 % by weight of the flour), 5 % yeast activated in milk for each kilogram of flour, 0,02 % white wine or vinegar, possibly one egg, one egg yolk and enough sour cream to obtain an unyielding dough of medium elasticity, which is easy to roll out.

Keeping the ingredients and the crackling cream at a low temperature is important for this variety so that the crackling cream can separate the dough layers during folding. The fat between the thinly rolled cold dough layers melts during baking and prevents the dough layers from sticking. In the meantime, the water content of the dough and the fat transforms into steam and pushes the layers apart, so that the product can be divided into layers (feuilles) once baked.

The ‘mille-feuille’ structure may be achieved in two ways.

(a) The crackling cream is smeared evenly on the thinly rolled-out dough, then the dough is rolled up starting from one end. This roll is left to rest for 15-30 minutes, then rolled out once again and rolled up at 90 degrees to the previous rolling. If this rotation is not respected, the scones will tilt when baking.

(b) The ripe basic dough is rolled out thinly, and the crackling mixture is smeared on the exposed parts as many times as the dough is folded. In this case it is not rolled up, but folded (at least three times).

Before the final roll-out the dough is allowed to rest for at least 15 minutes, then it is rolled out in one finger-thick layer (1-2 cm), the top is scored densely with perpendicular lines, and the scones are cut with a scone form of 3-6 cm diameter. The scones necessary to fill the tray are placed close to each other on the board and are brushed with beaten egg with the help of a brush, without allowing the egg to run down the sides of the cylinders.

When the egg has dried on the surface, the scones are placed, evenly spaced, on the baking tray. They are then left to rise for 40-45 minutes and are baked in a hot oven at 220-240 °C for 8-10 minutes.

The scones are sold without packing (loose) or pre-packed.

3.7. Specific character of the agricultural product or foodstuff:

The unique characteristics of ‘tepertős pogácsa’ are ensured by the following:

— basic material of pork crackling and pork fat,

— the special technique of dough preparation,

— physical, chemical and organoleptic characteristics.

The basic material, pork crackling, providing the characteristic

The typical characteristics of ‘tepertős pogácsa’ are ensured by the crackling remaining from frying fat bacon containing little or no meat. Cracklings contain 12-13 % protein and 82-84 % fat; 60 % of the product’s fat content originates from the crackling.

The special technique of dough preparation

In addition to the short dough, using cracklings enables the production of special, ‘mille-feuille’ textured dough, while the high fat content requires the special preparation of a cold dough of 24-26 °C.

Physical, chemical and organoleptic characteristics

Due to the fat content of 20-30 % achieved by using the pork crackling and fat, the nutritive value of ‘tepertős pogácsa’ is higher, it dries more slowly and has a longer shelf-life than products in the same category.

3.8. Traditional character of the agricultural product or foodstuff:

The word ‘pogácsa’ (scone) was first used around 1395, and originally meant a girdle-cake-bread baked in ash and embers. In Hungarian folk tales it became popular as ‘hamuban sült pogácsa’ (scones baked in ash). Until the 18th century, the word used for the girdle-cake-bread eaten as bread was scone-bread. The current, smaller, cylindrical, cut variety became popular in Hungary in the late Middle Ages. It was the most popular bakery product of Hungarian peasant cuisine and was made in several varieties, and its popularity has not faded ever since.

Two conditions enabled the development of ‘tepertős pogácsa’: frying fat from bacon became a common activity and crackling became an everyday food. According to a description of a middle-ranking noble family of the 1770s, frying bacon and making cracklings became part of the household of noblemen from the 18th century. This is supported by the fact that, according to the property inventory of noble families, fat/lard firkins started to appear in the Great Plain from the 18th century. (Cegléd 1850-1900. Ceglédi Kossuth Múzeum kiadása (Publication of Cegléd Kossuth Museum) Cegléd, 1988, pp. 28, 30 Szűcs.) We can assume that the tradition of frying fat and the use of pig fat as everyday nourishment by peasants and in popular pig processing started to spread from the (mid-)19th century on the basis of the fact that fat/lard firkins were already listed in the peasant registries of the area between the Danube and Tisza rivers in the 1850s.

According to oral ethnographic data from the turn of the 19th-20th century, crackling was used for making soap by peasant households in the Central Tisza region, and consumption developed gradually. After pig slaughter, scones were usually baked with fresh, small, skinless cracklings. An ethnographic summary of the 1930s refers to scones as being made of unleavened and leavened dough, flavoured — among other ingredients — with cracklings ((Bátky Zs.: Táplálkozás. (Nourishment) In: A magyarság néprajza. (Etnography of the Hungarians) Budapest, 1933, p. 100). Therefore we can say that adding cracklings to leavened dough became common at the beginning of the 20th century.

To this day, ‘Tepertős pogácsa’ plays an important role in everyday cooking. It is served as a second dish with main course soups (goulash, bean soup) and offered to guests at meetings and conferences. It is also a popular choice among housewives, especially to mark family events (weddings, christenings) or feasts such as Christmas and Easter, and is often served as a savoury snack to accompany wine in agri-tourism. (Hagyományok Ízek Régiók, I. kötet (Traditional Tastes Regions, Vol. I, pp. 145-147.)

Several recipe books have proved its reputation from the 1880s to this day. Dobos C. József: Magyar-Franczia szakácskönyv (Hungarian-French cookery book) pp. 784-785, 1881; Rozsnyai Károly: Legújabb nagy házi cukrászat (Latest great domestic confectionery) p. 350, 1905; Kincses Váncza receptkönyv (Kincses Váncza recipe book) p. 21, 1920; Az Új idők második receptkönyve (Second recipe book of new times) p. 182, 1934; Hajdú Ernőné: Jaj, mit főzzek (What shall I cook?) p. 73, 1941; Rudnay János: A magyar cukrászat remekei (Masterpieces of Hungarian confectionery) p. 89, 1973.

3.9. Minimum requirements and procedures to check the specific character:

Special characteristics Minimum requirements Verification method and frequency fat content — 20-30 %, by weight in the dry matter — only pig fat may be used In accordance with the product description in point 3.5, in a laboratory once every six months. crackling (cream) — the use of pork crackling — the use of crackling without skin On the basis of product documentation or product sheet, documented according to lots. ingredients — in accordance with the product description in point 3.6 (pork crackling, pig fat, wheat flour, egg, egg yolk, milk, yeast, white wine or vinegar, sour cream, salt and pepper). On the basis of product documentation or product sheet, documented according to lots. organoleptic characteristics of the product (content, taste and aroma) — short or flaky ‘mille-feuille’ texture — taste and aroma characteristic of the crackling and mildly peppered Organoleptic test every shift.

4. Authorities or bodies verifying compliance with the product specification:

4.1. Name and address:

Name: Mezőgazdasági Szakigazgatási Hivatal Központ, Élelmiszer- és Takarmánybiztonsági Igazgatóság (Central Agriculture Administration Office, Food and Feed Safety Directorate) Address: Budapest Mester u. 81. 1095 MAGYARORSZÁG/HUNGARY Tel. +36 4563010 Fax — E-mail: oevi@oai.hu

☒ public  private

4.2. Specific tasks of the authority or body:

The verifying authority checks whether the product complies with the requirements set out in the product specification.

(1) OJ L 93, 31.3.2006, p. 12.