EN Official Journal of the European Union C 139/5

Publication of an application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2015/C 139/05)

This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1).

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘BARANJSKI KULEN’

EU No: HR-PGI-0005-01207-3.3.2014

PDO ( ) PGI ( X )

1. Name(s)

‘Baranjski kulen’

2. Member State or Third Country

Republic of Croatia

3. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1. Product type

Class 1.2 Meat products (cooked, salted, smoked, etc.)

3.2. Description of the product to which the name in 1 applies

‘Baranjski kulen’ is a fermented preserved sausage made from pressed pork meat, seasoned with ground paprika, garlic and pepper and stuffed into the end of a pig’s large intestine (caecum) or ‘katica’ as this is often referred to in the region of Baranja.

‘Baranjski kulen’ is oval in shape and firm in consistency, without visible surface flaws or stains and without excessive traces of mould on the casing. Its shape is determined by the casing, which must be fully stuffed with the filling. The minimum weight of the final product is 0,80 kg. The cross-section of ‘Baranjski kulen’ has a characteristically even appearance, which is due to the consistent use of meat ground at 8 mm for the filling. All the ingredients in the filling are evenly distributed and compacted, and the cross-section shows no holes or cracks.

The exterior of ‘Baranjski kulen’ is light to dark brown, while the colour of the cross-section varies from lighter to darker shades of red, which is due to the paprika and the ground meat. The predominant aroma is that of smoke, which is typical of cold-smoked meat products. ‘Baranjski kulen’ has a slightly spicy flavour due to the addition of ground paprika, and the characteristic aroma of smoked fermented meat, which is complemented by the garlic and pepper.

Chemical composition

The chemical composition of ‘Baranjski kulen’ at the end of the maturing process is as follows:

water: maximum 40 %;

protein: minimum 29 %;

fat: maximum 25 %.

3.3. Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The raw material for ‘Baranjski kulen’ (90:10 meat to fat) is obtained from sows (category K) and pigs bred to a higher final weight (category T2). In addition, 80 % of the meat in the filling is category 1 meat (ham, loin) while the remaining 20 % is obtained from the shoulder, which is category 2 meat. Category 3 meat may not be used in the production of ‘Baranjski kulen’.

A minimum of 80 % of the meat for ‘Baranjski kulen’ is obtained by de-boning the ham and the muscles of the loin, while the rest (not more than 20 % of the total meat filling) is obtained from the shoulder.

The meat is then processed as follows: all the skin and the subcutaneous fat is cut away and all cartilaginous parts, major blood vessels, nerves, sinewy tendons, the soft visceral fat and blood residue are removed.

The pork meat and fat used to make ‘Baranjski kulen’, along with the spices/seasoning, may, but need not, be produced in the area referred to in point 4.

3.4. Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

The entire production process must take place in the region of Baranja as follows: tempering of the raw material, preparation of the filling, stuffing of the casing, conditioning, fermentation, maturation.

3.5. Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

—

3.6. Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

—

4. Concise definition of the geographical area

Baranja is a region in northeastern Croatia, to the north of the lower River Drava and its confluence with the Danube.

The Drava represents a natural border with the region of Slavonia to the south, while the Danube separates Croatia from the Republic of Serbia to the east. To the north and north-west, Baranja borders Hungary.

Baranja has one city (Beli Manastir) and eight municipalities: Bilje, Čeminac, Darda, Draž, Jagodnjak, Kneževi Vinogradi, Petlovac and Popovac.

5. Link with the geographical area

The protection of ‘Baranjski kulen’ is based on its reputation.

The first written mention of ‘kulen’ from Baranja dates back to the works of Croatian folklorist and writer Nikola Tordinac (1858-1888), such as ‘Hrvatski narodni običaji, pjesme i pripovijetke iz Pečuha i okolice’, 1986, pp. 53 and 57. His writings from the 1880s contain extremely comprehensive descriptions of Croats from Baranja and their traditions, among which ‘kulen’ held a special place.

The old folk traditions of the Croats of Baranja are also closely intertwined with viticulture, wine-making and the production of ‘Baranjski kulen’. Much can be read about this today in the works of ethnologist Đuro Franković of Pécs. His descriptions of the folk traditions of the Croats of Baranja bear witness to the time-honoured tradition of ‘kulen’-making and its role in the rituals to ensure an abundant grape harvest in Baranja’s vineyards (Đuro Franković: ‘Sveti Vinko (22. siječnja)’, Hrvatski glasnik — a weekly newspaper of the Croatian community in Hungary, 18 January 2007, p. 9).

The beginnings of the organised production of preserved meat products can be traced back to the turn of the 19th century. In Karanac, Baranja (at that time southern Hungary), a meat shop owner by the name of Geza Barnas set out to produce various delicacies from pigmeat. He employed two other butchers, Jovan Berisavljević and Lajos Gajer the elder. Particularly notable among his products was ‘Pannonski kulin’, a forerunner of the contemporary ‘Baranjski kulen’ which today is typical of the area (Davorin Taslidžić and Andrija Bognar: ‘Poveznice obzorja (povijest u doticaju)’, 2009, p. 160).

Since WWII, the majority of ‘Baranjski kulen’ has been produced in Beli Manastir, in the Belje meat processing factory of the PZ Baranjka agricultural cooperative (‘Objektiv 25’, Belje — a bulletin of the agricultural and industrial cooperative, 31 March 1977, p. 5). At that time, the recipe for ‘Baranjski kulen’ was considered a trade secret and production was managed by master butcher Radivoj Vuković, according to his son Dr Miroslav Vuković, who succeeded his father and continued his legacy until he himself retired. Radivoj Vuković obtained the recipe for ‘Pannonski kulin’ from the butcher and sausage maker from Karanac at the time when he worked in the Beli Manastir slaughterhouse. He continued to use the same recipe but changed the name of the product to ‘Baranjski kulen’ as it was commonly referred to by other producers in the region, so the original name ‘Pannonski kulin’ fell into disuse. A still popular anecdote has it that Radivoj Vuković kept his recipe under lock and key until he realised that all producers from Baranja in fact made their ‘kulen’ the very same way (statement made by veterinary surgeon Miroslav Vuković, signed and certified by a notary public, 2010).

‘Kulen’ makers from Baranja began using pepper because of the influence of salami makers from the Hungarian south, with whose technology and know-how they were familiar, which was reflected in their products. At the time, Baranja’s economy was centred around agricultural goods, which were owned by the Austro-Hungarian nobility (for a long period of history, the Habsburgs) and benefited from an extensive trade network. Access to the European markets of the time made pepper much more accessible for the producers of ‘kulen’ from Baranja, which may be why it has been used in the making of ‘Baranjski kulen’.

‘Baranjski kulen’ gained particular popularity in the 1980s with the rise, in eastern Croatia, of organised quality competitions among ‘kulen’ producers, termed ‘kulenijade’, which have been going strong to this day. ‘Kulen’ producers from Baranja have frequently won the highest awards at these events (‘Tražimo najbolje proizvođače kulena’, Vinkovačke novosti, 13 February 1981, p. 8; ‘Kulen – još uvijek najbolji u tradicionalnoj tehnologiji’, Vinkovačke novosti, 3 July 1981, p. 12). The former agro-industrial conglomerate Belje (known today as Belje d.d.) has presented the product — made using the traditional recipe and marketed under its historic name — at international fairs and won medals (‘Bitka za tržište i plasman’, Belje — a bulletin of the agricultural and industrial cooperative, 30 April 1988, p. 7).

Many who have tasted ‘Baranjski kulen’ find that its unique qualities are linked to the region of Baranja. This has been corroborated by a survey of 1 000 respondents who tasted ‘Baranjski kulen’ in which as many as 77 % of them linked the product to the Baranja where it originates (Survey by Ipsos plus of the link between the quality of ‘Baranjski kulen’ and the region where it originates, 2011).

In view of the above, there is no question that the people of Baranja consider ‘Baranjski kulen’ more than just a traditional foodstuff — they embrace it as a part of their cultural and historical heritage, which gives it its reputation.

Reference to publication of the product specification

(Article 6(1) second subparagraph of this Regulation)

http://www.mps.hr/UserDocsImages/HRANA/BARANJSKI%20KULEN/Izmijenjena%20Specifikacija%20proizvoda%20Baranjski%20kulen.pdf

(1) OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.