Publication of a communication of approval of a standard amendment to the product specification for a name in the wine sector referred to in Article 17(2) and (3) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33

(2020/C 88/08)

This notice is published in accordance with Article 17(5) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33 (1)

COMMUNICATION OF APPROVAL OF A STANDARD AMENDMENT

‘Var’

PGI-FR-A1145-AM01

Date of communication: 25 November 2019

DESCRIPTION OF AND REASONS FOR THE APPROVED AMENDMENT

1. Organoleptic description of the products

Chapter I(3.3) of the specification for ‘Var’ PGI has been amended to include a description of the organoleptic properties of each category of red, rosé and white wine.

These details have also been added to the Single Document under the heading ‘Description of the wine(s)’.

2. Geographical area

Chapter I (4.1) of the specification has been updated with a formal amendment to the description of the geographical area.

It now specifies the year of the Geographic Code (the national reference stating municipalities per department), in listing the municipalities included in each additional geographical mention. The relevant Geographic Code is the one published in 2018. The names of some municipalities have been corrected but there has been no change to the composition of the geographical area.

This amendment does not affect the Single Document.

3. Vine varieties

In Chapter I(5) of the specification, the following 9 varieties have been added to those listed for the production of wines eligible for the ‘Var’ PGI:

‘Artaban N, Floreal B, Monarch N, Muscaris B, Prior N, Solaris B, Soreli B, Souvignier Gris B, Vidoc N and Voltis B’.

These varieties are known to be resistant to drought and cryptogamic diseases. While they are similar to the varieties currently used to produce the PGI wines, they allow the use of plant protection products to be reduced. They do not affect the wines’ characteristics.

The introduction of these varieties does not affect the Single Document.

4. Link with the geographical area - specificity of the product

In the ninth subparagraph of Chapter I(7.2) of the specification, the following sentence has been deleted:

‘Under the current rules, these sparkling wines cannot be placed on the market with a geographical indication and this clearly undermines their value, particularly on the local market, where wines covered by the “Var” protected geographical indication predominate.’

This sentence has been deleted because it is no longer relevant now that quality sparkling wines with the ‘Var’ protected geographical indication have been recognised.

The Single Document is not affected by the deletion of this sentence from the specification.

5. Details of the competent control authority

In Chapter II of the specification, the details of the National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO, the competent control authority) have been corrected but there has been no change.

These amendments to the address have also been reproduced in the Single Document.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

1. Name of the product

Var

2. Geographical indication type

PGI - Protected Geographical Indication

3. Categories of grapevine product

1. Wine

5. Quality sparkling wine

4. Description of the wine(s)

Still red, rosé and white wines

The protected geographical indication ‘Var’ applies to still and quality sparkling red, rosé and white wines.

By way of derogation, the volatile acidity content for wines with a fermentable sugar content (glucose and fructose) of at least 45 grams per litre is as established by an Order jointly issued by the Minister for Consumer Affairs and the Minister for Agriculture.

In the case of still wines, the threshold or limit values for actual alcoholic strength (sparkling wines only), total alcoholic strength, total acidity, volatile acidity, total sulphur dioxide and carbon dioxide (sparkling wines only) are as established in EU legislation.

The rosé wines (70 % of output) are generally pale in colour. They are typically lively with fruity aromas, with the variations to be expected given the vine varieties and wine-making techniques employed.

The red wines are generally full-bodied with good structure, tending towards strong in the case of the more concentrated wines. Their colour ranges from ruby red to deep garnet with purple tints.

The white wines are fine, fruity and lively. They are clear and pale yellow in colour with hints of green or shiny gold.

General analytical characteristics Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume) Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume) 9 Minimum total acidity Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre) Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre)

Quality sparkling wines (red, rosé and white)

The sparkling wines have the same colours and organoleptic properties as their still counterparts but their finer and fresher aromas last longer and are enhanced by their elegant fine bubbles.

In the case of quality sparkling wines, the threshold or limit values for actual alcoholic strength, total alcoholic strength, total acidity, volatile acidity, total sulphur dioxide and carbon dioxide (sparkling wines only) are as established in EU legislation.

General analytical characteristics Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume) Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume) Minimum total acidity Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre) Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre)

5. Wine-making practices

a. Essential oenological practices

Specific oenological practice

The oenological practices for these wines must meet the requirements laid down at EU level and in the Rural and Maritime Fishing Code.

b. Maximum yields

120 hectolitres per hectare

6. Demarcated geographical area

The harvesting of the grapes and the vinification and processing of ‘Var’ PGI wines must take place within the municipalities included in the department of Var.

7. Main grape varieties

Gewurztraminer Rs

Goldriesling B

Gouget N

Sciaccarello N

Segalin N

Seinoir N

Select B

Semebat N

Semillon B

Servanin N

Sylvaner B

Syrah N - Shiraz

Tannat N

Tempranillo N

Téoulier N

Terret blanc B

Terret gris G

Terret noir N

Tibouren N

Tourbat B

Tressot N

Ugni blanc B

Valdiguié N

Varousset N

Velteliner rouge précoce Rs

Verdesse B

Vermentino B - Rolle

Villard blanc B

Villard noir N

Mauzac rose Rs

Mayorquin B

Melon B

Mérille N

Merlot blanc B

Merlot N

Meslier Saint-François B - Gros Meslier

Meunier N

Milgranet N

Molette B

Mollard N

Mondeuse Blanche B

Mondeuse N

Monerac N

Montils B

Morrastel N - Minustellu, Graciano

Mourvaison N

Mourvèdre N - Monastrell

Mouyssaguès

Müller-Thurgau B

Muresconu N - Morescono

Muscadelle B

Muscardin N

Muscat à petits grains blancs B - Muscat, Moscato

Muscat à petits grains rouges Rg - Muscat, Moscato

Muscat à petits grains roses Rs - Muscat, Moscato

Muscat cendré B - Muscat, Moscato

Viognier B

Artaban N

Floreal B

Monarch N

Muscaris B

Prior N

Solaris B

Souvignier gris Rs

Vidoc N

Voltis B

Portugais bleu N

Précoce Bousquet B

Précoce de Malingre B

Prunelard N

Raffiat de Moncade B

Riesling B

Riminèse B

Rivairenc blanc B - Aspiran blanc

Rivairenc gris G - Aspiran gris

Rivairenc N - Aspiran noir

Rosé du Var Rs

Roublot B

Roussanne B

Roussette d’Ayze B

Sacy B

Saint Côme B

Saint-Macaire N

Saint-Pierre doré B

Sauvignon B - Sauvignon blanc

Sauvignon gris G - Fié gris

Carignan blanc B

Carignan N

Carmenère N

Castets N

César N

Chardonnay B

Chasan B

Chatus N

Chenanson N

Chenin B

Cinsaut N - Cinsault

Clairette B

Clairette rose Rs

Clarin B

Claverie B

Codivarta B

Colombard B

Corbeau N - Douce noire

Cot N - Malbec

Couderc noir N

Counoise N

Courbu B - Gros Courbu

Courbu noir N

Couston N

Crouchen B - Cruchen

Duras N

Alicante Henri Bouschet N

Aligoté B

Alphonse Lavallée N

Altesse B

Aramon blanc B

Aramon gris G

Aramon N

Aranel B

Arbane B

Arinarnoa N

Arriloba B

Arrouya N

Aubin B

Aubin vert B

Graisse B

Gramon N

Grassen N - Grassenc

Grenache blanc B

Grenache gris G

Grenache N

Gringet B

Grolleau Gris G

Grolleau N

Gros Manseng B

Gros vert B

Joubertin

Jurançon blanc B

Jurançon noir N - Dame noire

Knipperlé B

Lauzet B

Liliorila B

Listan B - Palomino

Lledoner pelut N

Macabeu B - Macabeo

Mancin N

Manseng noir N

Maréchal Foch N

Marsanne B

Marselan N

Mauzac B

Aubun N - Murescola

Auxerrois B

Bachet N

Barbaroux Rs

Baroque B

Béclan N - Petit Béclan

Béquignol N

Biancu Gentile B

Blanc Dame B

Bouchalès N

Bouillet N

Bouquettraube B

Bourboulenc B - Doucillon blanc

Brachet N - Braquet

Brun argenté N - Vaccarèse

Cabernet franc N

Cabernet-Sauvignon N

Caladoc N

Calitor N

Camaralet B

Carcajolo blanc B

Carcajolo N

Muscat d’Alexandrie B - Muscat, Moscato

Muscat de Hambourg N - Muscat, Moscato

Muscat Ottonel B - Muscat, Moscato

Négret de Banhars N

Négrette N

Nielluccio N - Nielluciu

Noir Fleurien N

Oberlin noir N

Ondenc B

Orbois B

Pagadebiti B

Pascal B

Perdea B

Persan N

Petit Courbu B

Petit Manseng B

Petit Meslier B

Petit Verdot N

Picardan B - Araignan

Pineau d’Aunis N

Pinot gris G

Piquepoul blanc B

Piquepoul gris G

Piquepoul noir N

Plant de Brunel N

Plant droit N - Espanenc

Portan N

Durif N

Egiodola N

Ekigaïna N

Elbling B

Etraire de la Dui N

Fer N - Fer Servadou, Braucol, Mansois, Pinenc

Feunate N

Folignan B

Folle blanche B

Fuella nera N

Furmint B

Gamaret

Gamay de Bouze N

Pinot blanc B

Soreli B

Gamay N

Gascon N

Genovèse B

8. Description of the link(s)

Specificity of the geographical area

Var is one of the departments located in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region in south-eastern France. It takes its name from the coastal river Var that used to mark the eastern boundary. It is bordered in the west by the department of Bouches-du-Rhône, in the north by the department of Alpes de Haute Provence, in the east by the department of Alpes-Maritimes and in the south by the Mediterranean Sea.

The relief in the geographical area is varied with two geologically distinct parts: a calcareous part to the west of the Toulon–Draguignan axis and a crystalline part to the east.

These two distinct geological formations are associated to two types of vegetation that are typical in the Mediterranean region, i.e.: ‘garrigue’ (brushwood) on the limestone soils and ‘maquis’ and forest (pine and holm oak) on the more crystalline soils. Neither of these types of vegetation provide more than a little humus. The soils in Var are generally poor with good drainage but liable to erosion. Vines can prosper in this kind of terrain. The Romans were not mistaken when they introduced vines 2 600 years ago to develop the Roman Province (or ‘Provence’).

One of the main hallmarks of the climate in Var is its sunshine. The department of Var benefits from a Mediterranean climate featuring hot, dry summers and mild winters with rainy seasons in autumn and in spring. These conditions are ideal for vine-growing and the temperature variations very often mean that certain parcels are devoted to grapes for making red and rosé wines.

The prevailing wind in the region is the Mistral (northerly). It is glacial in winter after having passed over the snow-capped Alps but it is a guarantee of freshness in summer. It can be harsh at times but wine-growers focus mostly on one essential quality: it preserves the vines from an excessively humid environment and from cryptogams such as mildew.

Specificity of the product

Production levels have continued to grow since the ‘Var’ protected geographical indication (Vin de Pays du Var) was created, stabilising at around 250 000 hl at the beginning of the 21st century.

Rosé wines are the main focus (70 % on average), mostly blended varieties.

Despite the continued importance of local varieties such as Grenache N, Cinsault N, Carignan N, Syrah N and Mourvèdre N for red and rosé wines and Vermentino B and Ugni Blanc B for whites, it must be said that the EU funds for restructuring vineyards have helped establish hallmark varieties from other French vineyards, such as Cabernet-Sauvignon N, Merlot N, Chardonnay B and, to a lesser extent, Viognier B. This range of varieties has made it possible to diversify the expression of the wines and contributed, in particular, towards developing the production of quality rosé wines.

One of the characteristics shared by most of the rosé wines, i.e. their very pale colour, is achieved thanks to the expertise in direct pressing of the bunches (whole or destemmed), often with the help of pneumatic presses, so that the clear juice immediately starts to ferment at a low temperature. The lively, fruity wines thus obtained are pale pink in colour.

Other techniques are also employed, such as ‘saignée’ (bleeding off some of the juice), maceration of the skins or prior to fermentation (where musts are kept at a low temperature for between 8 and 24 hours before pressing), with a view to making rosé wines that are stronger in colour and which have a more consistent structure.

The red wines (which account for about 20 % of the eligible volume) are often strong and fleshy with good tannin structure. They are mostly made from the triad of Grenache N, Syrah N and Cabernet-Sauvignon N, although Merlot N and Cinsault N are often included too.

Accounting for a more modest proportion of the production (10 % of the eligible volume), the white wines appeal both to enthusiasts of varietal wine (Rolle B or Vermentino B, Viognier B or Chardonnay B) and to others, with blended wines that combine finesse and liveliness.

Quality sparkling wines are also made in the production area in question. The making of sparkling wine is not a new development in Provence. It is a traditional process that results in about a million bottles per year and which is guaranteed here by some fifty operators (producers, processors and traders). In the early 20th century, some cooperative wineries or winemakers such as ‘La Tête Noire’ were already trying to promote the quality sparkling wines produced in Provence.

One of the main characteristics of the sparkling wines covered by the ‘Var’ protected geographical indication is the fact that they are made from local vine varieties, as they are mostly rosé wines, which account for most of the still wines produced in the region.

Thus the ‘Var’ protected geographical indication would identify still wines associated with sparkling wines with relatively similar organoleptic profiles. Indeed, the sparkling rosé wines are very fruity and floral and they have the same roundness of flavour as the still rosé wines.

It is precisely these organoleptic properties (floral and fruity aspect and the nice roundness) that distinguish the sparkling wines made in the Var region from those made in other parts of France.

Causal link between the specificity of the geographical area and the specificity of the product

Given its favourable climate, diverse landscapes and seaside location, as well as its rich historical and cultural heritage, craftsmanship and traditions, the Var region has undeniable potential for tourism. Aided by all of these strengths, the department has built up a strong economy focusing on tourism.

This remarkably attractive region manages to draw in more than 14 million tourists a year. These tourists, many of whom come back again and again, will obviously learn to appreciate the cuisine and produce of Provence, including Var wines covered by a controlled designation of origin or protected geographical indication.

Since the ‘Var’ protected geographical indication was created under the rules that used to apply for ‘Vin de Pays’, its fame has grown largely thanks to the tourist activity in the region, as can be seen from the strong demand for the rosé wines at local level. Consumers appreciate and recognise the quality of the range of wines on offer.

Remarkably, producers have remained vigilant in continuing their progress in making their ‘Vins de Pays’ so as to always be aligned with consumer tastes (for example, the colour of the rosé wines).

This drive was apparent in the early 2000s when professional winemakers from Var took part in the creation of a national centre for research and experimentation focusing on rosé wine (in Vidauban - Var). Various projects were published (one on the nuances of rosé wines, for example) and this contributed in operational terms towards continuous improvements in the quality levels of the rosé wines. The sector also made major investments to ensure that it was equipped with the right tools to ensure perfect mastery of rosé wine-making. This state-of-the-art technology for rosé wines and the expertise of the producers are certainly beneficial for the production of wines covered by controlled designations of origin but they also have an impact on the wine-making process for wines covered by protected geographical indications.

Mention should also be made of the proximity of the Var vineyards to major regional urban centres and seaside resorts, a boon for producers wishing to increase the value of their offering who choose to bottle on site. Direct sales (bottled wine or bag-in-box) now represent about 50 % of the volume, with direct sales at the cellars alone accounting for 30 %.

Var is located in Provence, a region of acknowledged prestige. The image of Provence as a wine-producing region with a strong focus on quality rosé wines – world leader in the production of rosé – is well-established and has been validated by many spontaneous awareness surveys (source: cabinet Wine Intelligence Vinitrac - November 2009).

This prestige and expertise with a strong focus on rosé wines is also true of the red, white and sparkling wines made by the same producers from the vineyards of Var located in the same geographical environment.

The success of the rosé wines also undeniably reflects on the quality and reputation of the other wines produced in the department.

9. Essential further conditions (packaging, labelling, other requirements)

Labelling

Legal framework:

National legislation

Type of further condition:

Additional provisions relating to labelling

Description of the condition:

The following can be added to the protected geographical indication ‘Var’:

the name/s of one or more vine varieties,

the terms ‘primeur’ (early) or ‘nouveau’ (new). The terms ‘primeur’ (early) or ‘nouveau’ (new) are reserved for still wines only.

The protected geographical indication ‘Var’ can be followed by the name of the following smaller geographical units, according to the conditions set out in the specification:

‘Argens’,

‘Coteaux du Verdon’,

‘Sainte Baume’.

The PGI logo of the European Union must appear on the label if the words ‘Indication géographique protégée’ (‘Protected Geographical Indication’) are replaced by the traditional term ‘Vin de Pays’.

Area in immediate proximity

Legal framework:

National legislation

Type of further condition:

Derogation concerning production in the demarcated geographical area

Description of the condition:

The area in immediate proximity, defined by derogation for the making and development of the wines eligible for the ‘Var’ protected geographical indication, which may or may not be followed by the name of a smaller geographical unit, i.e. ‘Argens’, ‘Coteaux du Verdon’ or ‘Saint Baume’, consists of the districts bordering the geographical area, as follows:

in the east, bordering on the department of Alpes-Maritimes: the district of Grasse;

in the west, bordering on the department of Bouches-du-Rhône: the districts of Aix-en-Provence and Marseille;

in the west/ north-west, bordering on the department of Vaucluse: the district of Apt;

in the north, bordering on the department of Alpes de Haute-Provence: the districts of Forcalquier, Digne and Castellane.

Link to the product specification

https://info.agriculture.gouv.fr/gedei/site/bo-agri/document_administratif-055c5a5e-f7b9-40dc-ab3a-c1ccb2400c4c

(1) OJ L 9, 11.1.2019, p. 2.