Publication of an application for registration of a name pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2020/C 224/07)

This publication confers the right to oppose the amendment application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months of the date of this publication.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘MOLLETE DE ANTEQUERA’

EU No: PGI-ES-02393 – 23.2.2018

PDO ( ) PGI (X)

1. Name

‘Mollete de Antequera’

2. Member State or third country

Spain

3. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1. Type of product

Class 2.3. Bread, pastry, cakes, confectionery, biscuits and other baker’s wares;

3.2. Description of product to which the name in 1 applies

‘Mollete de Antequera’ is a type of bread originating from the geographical area referred to in point 4. Made from wheat flour and with a high moisture content and soft crumb, it is baked for a short time. Its peculiar shape is irregular and elliptical at the bottom. It is flat and slim in volume, with a fine dusting of the flour from which it is made.

Wheat bran can be added to the flour while it is being made.

The product comes packaged fresh, frozen/deep-frozen or in a protective atmosphere.

The specific features of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ are defined by the following physico-chemical and organoleptic descriptors:

a) Shape and formats

The product comes in three formats depending on its weight:

— Mollete: 100 to 150 grams.

— Medium ‘mollete’: 55 to 99 grams.

— Small ‘mollete’: less than 55 grams.

The typical shape of the product must be maintained in all of the formats. This is defined by the ratio between the axes of the ellipse formed by the bottom of the item (‘a’ being the major axis and ‘b’ being the minor one) and by the height (z) defined according to the ratio z/(a * b). The average values and tolerance limits are defined in the following table:

Ratio a/b (*1) Ratio z/(a * b) (*1) Format Average value Tolerance limit Average value (x10-3) Tolerance limit Mollete 1,58 ±15 % 2,15 ±25 % Medium ‘mollete’ 1,44 ±15 % 2,95 ±25 % Small ‘mollete’ 1,21 ±15 % 6,10 ±25 %

b) Texture

The ‘Mollete de Antequera’ has a characteristically spongy texture.

The maximum values of the deformation force on the volume of the item shall be as follows for each of the types and formats:

— Fresh formats: 3 500 g.

— Fresh formats containing bran: 4 500 g.

— Frozen/deep-frozen formats: 5 000 g.

— Formats in protective atmosphere: 6 500 g.

The maximum values for the texture of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ are established for the entire shelf life of the product.

c) Crumb alveoles

The crumb has a double alveole structure. On the one hand, there are very round and well-formed alveoles with a diameter of less than 5 mm, which are evenly distributed inside the bread. On the other hand and to a lesser degree, there are larger alveoles that are irregular in shape, less than 15 mm and unevenly distributed.

d) Moisture

The moisture content of the bread is decisive for its quality, ranging between 32 and 45 %.

e) Organoleptic descriptors

The sensory profile of the fresh format of ‘Mollete de Antequera’ is defined as follows:

The crust is ivory white in colour with a slight hint of vanilla. It can be slightly more toasted on and under the edges, with a fine dusting of the flour used to make the bread. The crust is soft to the touch, fine, elastic and not very flaky. The aroma is of medium to high intensity, with prevailing notes of yeast and dough. The crumb is also off-white in colour but with slightly yellowish hues. It is very spongy in appearance and to the touch. In the mouth it is very tender, with a slightly acidic taste and aromas that again include notes of yeast, dough and flour. The aftertaste is pleasant with medium to low persistence and it is a very balanced product from the organoleptic perspective.

The bran-containing version of ‘Mollete de Antequera’ will vary to some degree in terms of the colour and aroma of the crust and crumb, as a result of the bran added to the mixture. The colour of the crust is slightly dark, mottled by the bran and with a fine dusting of flour from the flour used to make the product. The texture of the crust is slightly rougher but it retains the softness that is so characteristic of this product. The crumb is creamy light brown in colour and its texture is tender, spongy and soft. In the mouth, the taste is mild and subtly acidic, with a slight bitterness that emerges upon chewing and hints of the bran used to make the ‘Mollete de Antequera’. The aroma (of cereal, fibre, wheat and yeast) is very intense and persistent, which is why the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ scores so highly for its sensory qualities.

In the case of the frozen/deep-frozen product, all of the physico-chemical and organoleptic parameters must be measured after it is defrosted. The values of those parameters are the same as those that have been established for the fresh product, with the exception of the texture, which must comply with the stipulated limits.

The raw materials are low-gluten wheat flour (W) (between 110 and 170 x 10-4 joules) with a stretch-resistance and dough-extensibility ratio (P/L) of between 0,25 and 0,65, water, sea salt and organic yeast. For convenience, starter doughs can be used as a replacement/in addition to the organic yeast.

Wheat bran may be added, with a minimum dose of 3,8 % p/p of the baking dough and as long as the physico-chemical properties indicated in point 3.2 are maintained within the designated ranges for the various formats.

3.3. Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The raw materials are low-gluten wheat flour (W) (between 110 and 170 x 10-4 joules) with a stretch-resistance and dough-extensibility ratio (P/L) of between 0,25 and 0,65, water, sea salt and organic yeast. For convenience, starter doughs can be used as a replacement/in addition to the organic yeast.

Wheat bran may be added, with a minimum dose of 3,8 % p/p of the baking dough and as long as the physico-chemical properties indicated in point 3.2 are maintained within the designated ranges for the various formats.

3.4. Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

The product must be made in the demarcated geographical area in order to safeguard the specific quality of this delicate product. The production process consists of the following stages, which are listed in the same order in which they are carried out: kneading, leaving the dough to stand in one piece, dividing up the dough, weighing and forming the dough into balls, leaving the balls of dough to stand, forming the dough into individual pieces, allowing the dough to rise, cooking, cooling or tempering.

3.5. Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

Fresh ‘Molletes de Antequera’ must be packaged as part of the production process and at the same facilities where they are baked. They must first undergo a process to bring their temperature down to below 38 °C. The freezing/deep-freezing of the ‘Molletes de Antequera’ must be carried out as part of the production line, immediately after packaging, so as to ensure that the specific characteristics of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ are preserved at source. The main reason why the product must be packaged at source is to maintain the high moisture levels of the freshly-made product between 32 % and 45 % as this is crucial to maintaining the characteristics of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ (texture, aromas, etc.). The unpackaged product could lose a significant amount of its original moisture.

Irrespective of whether the product is fresh, frozen/deep-frozen or packaged in a protective atmosphere, it must always be presented in packaged form, with a view to preserving its quality from the source and ensuring its traceability. This requirement applies both to wholesalers and retailers at the production site.

The fresh product must always be packaged in cling film or a similar food grade material that is semi-permeable to oxygen.

3.6. Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

The words ‘Mollete de Antequera’ and ‘Indicación Geográfica Protegida’ and/or the logo of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ PGI must be prominently displayed on the labels and commercial packaging used on the ‘Mollete de Antequera’.

If the product contains wheat bran as part of its composition, the words ‘con salvado’ (contains bran) must be stated on the label. The format of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ must also be specified.

4. Concise definition of the geographical area

‘Mollete de Antequera’ is made and packaged within the municipal limits of Antequera and Fuente de Piedra, both of which belong to the province of Málaga.

5. Link with the geographical area

The basis for the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ Protected Geographical Indication is its reputation.

The remote origin of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ may date back to the lightly baked, low yeast flatbreads made by Jews and Arabs in Al-Andalus in the 12th and 13th centuries. However, the etymological origin of the term ‘mollete’ is from Castilian Spanish (‘muelle’ means soft) and it refers to the soft, spongy texture that is characteristic of this type of bread.

The use of the term ‘mollete’ and the tradition of making this product have only persisted in a few districts of Andalusia, perhaps owing to the greater influence of the culture of Al-Andalus in this region. From the middle of the 20th century onwards, its manufacture and marketing on a large scale were consolidated in Antequera. In this regard, Lorenzo Díaz mentions the municipality of Antequera in his book Diez Siglos de Cocina en Madrid (Ten Centuries of Cooking in Madrid) (1994) as one of the last remaining strongholds of Arab tradition in the south of Spain (Granada, Málaga and Almería) where the Castilian term ‘mollete’ has remained in use.

Records of this ‘Mollete de Antequera’ product being manufactured and eaten in this town in Málaga province go back at least to 1539, as a family recipe featuring the ‘mollete’ as the main staple was found in a culinary volume known as the ‘Book of María Enríquez’, which is part of the Archive of the Marquis de la Vega de Santa María. This document – housed in the Historical Municipal Archive of Antequera – mentions various gastronomical terms, the main ones being flour, milk and eggs, under the name ‘molletes reales’ (royal flatbreads).

The oldest commercial reference in documentation to the ‘mollete’ being made in Antequera is in a Capitulary Record dated 19 October 1775, in which a certain Manuel Esbri is granted a permit to ‘knead French bread and “molletes”...ensuring that both types are of good quality and fair weight’.

The municipality of Fuente de Piedra, which is included in the area where the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ is made, was the last municipality to gain independence from Antequera in 1838 (Muñoz Hidalgo and García Cañero, 1983: Historical Archive of Antequera) and the same tradition of making this product was preserved there.

Although there are no documented records of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ being made in the 19th century, master baker Juan Paradas Pérez from Antequera devoted part of his operations to bringing back the manufacture of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ in 1939. The ‘Mollete de Antequera’ products made by Paradas became deservedly famous and were in high demand in Antequera in the 1940s and 1950s. This recipe for making the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ has remained unchanged over several generations to the present day.

The choice of raw material (low-gluten wheat flour with a balanced stretch-resistance and dough-extensibility ratio (P/L), the high moisture content of the dough, the conditions whereby the dough is kneaded, formed into individual pieces and left to rise, the carefully-timed short oven time (light baking) and cooling are all decisive stages in ensuring the precise shape and delicate aroma of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’, which owes its soft, spongy texture to the double alveole structure of large and small holes. All of these stages are based on the expertise and experience of the master bakers of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’, whose tradition and best practices in making this product are linked to this territory.

The high moisture content (up to 45 %) and short baking time are typical qualities that are distinctive of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ based on the recipe by master baker Paradas, who made it a popular choice of breakfast bread in Antequera from the middle of the 20th century onwards. The reason for this popularity is that the toasting process enhances the softness and aromas of the crumb and the contrast between its texture and that of the crunchy crust, thus restoring all the qualities of the freshly-baked product. This quality was greatly appreciated by consumers in those days and even today, as it means that the ‘Molletes de Antequera’ can be consumed over the course of four or five days without going stale and maintaining the feeling of eating freshly-baked bread. Combined with the organoleptic properties of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’, this quality played a decisive role in the product acquiring a strong foothold in the market: initially in Antequera and then in the rest of Málaga province, followed by Andalusia as a whole and throughout the rest of Spain.

There are a huge number of bibliographical references to the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ which confirm just how well-known it is. We will now mention some of the publications in the last 25 years that have listed the qualities and sung the praises of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’: Gastronomía Antequerana (The Gastronomy of Antequera) (Juan Alcaide Vega, 1991); Diccionario Gastronómico. Términos, Refranes, Citas y Poemas (A Gastronomical Dictionary. Terms, Sayings, Quotes and Poems) (Luis F. Lescure, 2005); Ruta Gastronómica de Andalucía (A Gastronomical Route through Andalusia) (Inés Burtrón, 2009); 50 recetas con molletes de Antequera (50 Recipes featuring ‘Molletes de Antequera’) (Susana López Postigo, 2010); Route of Washington Irving from Seville to Granada (Turismo Andaluz S.A., 2000).

The Spanish King and Queen’s visit to Antequera in 1998 was reported by all the Spanish media outlets, including a specific mention that they were served the ‘famous molletes de Antequera’ with virgin olive oils from the locality.

Famous Spanish writer, journalist and Member of the Royal Spanish Academy since 2003, Arturo Pérez-Reverte, mentioned the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ in his book La piel del tambor (Drum Skin, 2002).

The Spanish Confederation of Bakers’ Organisations (CEOPAN) published a catalogue entitled Todos los panes tradicionales de España (All the Traditional Breads of Spain) in 2009, which included the ‘Mollete de Antequera’.

Finally, the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ was included in the Atlas of the Intangible Heritage of Andalusia, within the Province of Málaga and District of Antequera (Andalusian Institute of Historic Heritage, Regional Ministry of Culture, Government of the Autonomous Community of Andalusia).

The ‘Mollete de Antequera’ is now a very well-known product that can be bought throughout Spain.

Reference to publication of the specification

(the second subparagraph of Article 6(1) of this Regulation)

The full text of the product specification can be found at:

http://www.juntadeandalucia.es/export/drupaljda/Pliego_Mollete_Antequera.pdf

or via the homepage of the Consejería de Agricultura, Ganadería, PESCA y Desarrollo Sostenible [Regional Ministry for Agriculture, Livestock, Fisheries and Sustainable Development]

(https://juntadeandalucia.es/organismos/agriculturaganaderiapescaydesarrollosostenible.html),

Please follow this path: ‘Áreas de actividad’/‘Industrias y Cadena Agroalimentaria’/‘Calidad’/‘Denominaciones de Calidad’/‘Productos de panadería y repostería’. The Product Specification is located under the name of the quality designation.

(1) OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.

(*1) Dimensions of the ‘Mollete de Antequera’ in millimetres.