ARCHIVESHISTORIQUES
DELACOMMISSION
COLLECTION RELIEEDES
DOCUMENTS "COM"
COM(79)166
Vol.1979/0073

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COMMISSION OFTHEEUROPEAN COMMUNITIES
COM(79)166 final
Brussels,3April1979
S
/
PROPOSAL FORACOUNCILDECISION
ADOPTING ASECONDMULTIAANUAL RESEARCH AND
DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME FORTHEEUROPEAN COMMUNITY
INTHEFIELDOFTEXTILE ANDCLOTHING
(Indirectaction)v
(presentedbytheCommission totheCouncil)
hr:^
\ ''/\/
COM(79)166final

CONTENTS
Summary
Presentation ofprogramme
Contentofprogramme
Budget '
Implementation andmanagementof
programme -
Dissemination ofinformation
(Technicalannex:thedetaileddescriptionoftheresearchtopics
makinguptheprogrammeisatthedisposalofwhomitmayconcern)
1.ProposalforaCouncildecisionontheadoptionofasecondmultiannualResearchandDevelopmentprogrammeinthefieldof
TextileandClothing ^

Summary.
Thepresentproposalcoversfiveresearchanddevelopment
actionsinthefieldoftextileandclothing.
Theresearchareasarethefollowing :
1)Garmentphysiologyandconstruction ,
2)Qualityofknittedfabricsandknitweararticles,
3)Applicationofnewspinningtechnologies inthewoolindustry,
h)Upgradingoflinen,
5)Pollutiontreatmentandwaterrecyclingintextilefinishing
enterprises .
Abudgetestimatedat4.2.millionEuropeanUnitsofaccounton
Communitybudgetand1+.05millionEuropeanunitsofaccountbythe
textileindustry,andastaffoftwoagentsarenecessaryforthe
implementation ofthis3-yearprogramme.

-3-
Présentation ofEI22E2ÏÏÏ5 "
Following aseries ofconsultations with thevarious branches ofthe
textile andclothing industries ,andfollowing proposals made by
theindustry ,theCommission issubmitting asecond multiannual joint
research anddevelopment programme for a3-year period ,the
expenditure ofwhich isestimated at8.25M.EUA (^.2.M.EUAtobe
shouldered bytheComnunity )forthewhole period .
This activity istaking place inthecontext of -thegeneral guidelines
for atextiles andclothing industry policy which theConmission
approved on19July 1978 atits ^82nd meeting (C0M(78 )362final ).
Theresearch' programme covers 5actions dealing with several branches
ofactivity (cf.tfechnical annex ).
Itwill becarried outinthe form ofacost-sharing contact with
Comitextil with theparticipation ofnational research bodies and
ofprivate industry . -
Theprogramme isjustified inthat : ■•
-thesector ofthetextile andclothing industries ismade upofa
huge number ofsmall andmedium-size enterprises .Those enterprises
encounter difficulties when itcomes todeciding onthechoice of
investments ,production levels andexport opportunities ,but
they arenotinaposition tolaunch bythemselves awide-ranging
technological research programme ,thefindings ofwhich ,when put "•
into application ■,would mainly lead to -newtechnologies ,newproducts
andnewservices forthebenefit ofthewhole textile andclothing
sector ; ,
-thetextile andclothing industries occupy animportant position
intheCommunity economy ;they provide approximately 10%ofwage-
earning industrial jobs and itisestimated that ,interms ofadded
value ,they account forsome8%oftheCommunity 'sindustrial
activity ;
-their main deatures are :numerous processing stages andavery
large number ofundertakings ;apreponderance ofsmall andmedium -
sized undertakings insome subsectors ,particularly intheclothing
industry ;arange ofproduction thai ishighly diversified asto
products andoutlets ,very marked fluctuations indemand ;avery
high proportion ofwomen inthelabour force ,heavy concentration
incertain regions ,where they represent alarge proportion of
economic activity ;.
i
-theEuropean textile industry cannot rest onthelaurels ofits
present technoligy andmarkets awareness .Itwill inevitably be
-caught upandpermanently overtaken byrising costs .-Itmust therefore

-u-
makeunflaggingeffortstoimproveandrenewitstechniques and
technology,ofwhichjointresearchanddevelopmentaretheprime
movers.
Ontheotherhand,asthissecondprogrammeisthecontinuation
oftheinitialprogrammeabouttobecompleted,thenational
industrieshavenowacquiredthehabitofworkingtogether
intheresearchfieldatatimewhenresearchhasbecomemore
indispensable thanever.
Foritisnowadmitstheeconomicdifficulties causedbytheoiland
rawmaterialscrisisandthedifficulties arisingininternational
trade,moreparticularly withdevelopingcountriesandState-
tradingcountriessellingtheirproductsatabnormallylowprices,
-thattheEuropeanindustrymuststepupitseffortstoimproveits
competitiveposition,bothathomeandintheworld.
TheEuropeantextileandclothingindustriesofferquality,imagina­
tionandtastejtheirsurvivalwilldependontheirabilitytoadapt
quicklytomarketsandespeciallytothechangingmarketof
fashion.Theywillsucceedonlybymobilizingalltheirresources;
insuchaneffortresearchplaysacrucialandessentialpart.

-5-
Contentoftheprogramme :
Thetopicsorprojectsmakinguptheprogrammewereselectedafter
lenghtydebatesandthenfinalizedbythenationalandEuropean
professional bodies,withthecooperationofthejoingresearch
organizations .Thefinancialcommitmentofthetextileorganizations
intheparticipating countries (halfthetotalbudgetofthenew
programme)bearswitnesstotheirconvictionastotheusefulnessofthe
programme . ,
Thisfileisthustheresultsofmanymonthsofintensivepreparatory
workbyrepresentatives ofthetextileindustriesandlaboratoryexperts.
Aftertjhetopicshadbeendecidedupon,TechnicalandScientific Commit­
teeswere^appointedforeachtopic,withthefollowingtasks:
.todescribethesuccessivephasesofeachproject;
•tomakeatime-tableofthephasesextendingoverthreefullyears;
.toshareouttheworkbetweenlaboratories ,phasebyphase,
.tosetupliaisonproceduresforinter-laboratory work.
Theprojectshadtocomplywiththefollowingcriteria,todiffering
extents,butalwayssoastoobtainthebestpossibleclassification
score: .
1.improvethecompetitiveness oftheEuropeantextileindustryinthe
world,
2.nfeettherequirement andexpectations ofconsumers, ■
3.improveworkingconditionsorproductionconditions,
U.introducenewmethods,machinesorproducts,.
5..economizeonenergy,materialsandworkingtime,
6.protecttheenvironment ,
7.contributetowardsthemaintenance andimprovementofthegeneral
economyoftheE.E.C.
Noneofthesubjectswasselectedwithoutpreviousexaminationofthe
technicalliterature (journals,patents...),toobviatetheriskof
duplication andtake,advantageofallexistingscientificandtechnical
knowledgerightfrom"thestart.Inanycase,thehighcompetenceofthe
laboratories in,theirrespectivefieldsreducedtheriskofduplication
toanunlikelycoincidence .
Thelaboratories wereselectedonthebasisoftheirinternationally
recognizedcompetenceinthetextileandclothingsectors.Somecountries
haveinstitutesdealingwithseveraltechnologies ;theyaretherefore
participating inseveralprojects(twosubjectsinfivecases(WIRA,SHIRLEY,
LIRA,TNO,DWFI,StazioneSp.Cellulosa),sometimesV(Centexbel,andITF),s
butmoreusuallyonesubjectonly,asinthecaseoftheelevenspecialist
institutes (BEITEM,LBD,CETIH,ITL,Tecnotessile ,0.Rivetti,BPI,
Tech.,Forsch,TexfoandLIRA)).Nothingisthereforeoverdone,but
projectsareapportionedinaccordancewithqualifications . -

-6-
Research topi csforming theprogramme.
Thedetailed programme perproject islisted inthetechnical annex .
Projec tNr5-Garment physi ologyandconstruction .
This project undoubtedly belongs tothetextile sector
since garments ,which account formore than half the
output ofthetextile industry ,arebasically thesum
oftheir components parts ,i.e. there isclose interdepen­
dence inthedesign ofanarticle between thetype
offibre ,themethod ofspinning andweaving ,andeven
themaking-up stage .
Inseeking technical possibilities ,this project aims
atprogressing towards aharmonization ofthe systems of
sizes existing atCommunity level inorder tofacilitate
trade .Moreover ,ittries tomake thewearer more confor -
table ,thus improving hisworking conditions andeven
hissafety ,and itaims atincreasing themarket value
oftheEuropean products which will take this quality
factor into account .
Project Nr6-QuaJ.itjr_of_kni.tted fabrics andknitwear articles ^
Knitted fabrics represent 1/8oftextile production .
Theproject aims atanimprovement inquality :dimensional
-stability ,improved properties ofuseandmaintenance
ofappearance ,over avast range ofproducts and fibres .
The aim istoimprove competitiveness byabetter
price quality ratio andaquicker reaction_to market
requireme nts.The large number oflaboratories taking
part intheproject isduetothewide variety ofarticles
studied andthevery wide geographic distribution ofthis
sector .However ,thespread ofimproved techniques will
beallthewider ,the greater thenumber oflaboratories
providing results . <-
Project Nr7-Application ofnewspinning technologies inthewool
industry .
TheEuropean wool industry alone employs 300,000 people and
accounts for52# ofworld production ofcombed yarns and
56%ofcarded yarns .Therequisite experience istherefore
available for atechnological leap forward ,backed by
appropriate textile research ,butthemakers ofprocess
control machinery andequipment will only take aninterest
; inthis market ,particularly thecarded yarn market
.(notvery important ontheworld scale ,butimportant to
theCommunity ,andparticularly tocertain regions ),

ifthelaboratories introduceinnovations .Such
technological progress(introductionofopen-end
*spinningandproduct-characterization tests)isindispen­
sableforbettereconomiccompetitiveness andthe
improvementofproducts..
I
ProjectNr8-Upgradingoflinen.
.tThisprojecttookshapeasaresultofcooperation
startedbetweencertaincountriesandlaboratories
bytheInternational LinenandHempCommission (CILC).
.Closercooperation wouldbeobtainedwithinthe
COMITEXTILframework,withthesupportoftheEEC*to
speedupthetechnologicalchangesenvisaged,from
thefibretothefinishedproduct.Theagricultural
phaseisalreadyassistedbytheEEC:theindustrial
phasemustalsomakeprogress,toreducecosts,inigrove
theregularityofproducts,increaseproductivity}confer­
■'*newpropertiesonthefabricsandconquernewmarkets.
ProjectNr9Pollution_treatment andwaterrecyclingintextilefinis-
hing_factories^
TheEuropeanfinishingindustryuses500millionmof,~
"waterperannum(andsuppliesarelimited),whichit.
dischargesaspollutedeffluent;thissituationis
'unacceptable aridheavilytaxed.Thepurposeofthe
project,whichconcernsthemostheavilypollutingsectors
istodetermineexactlytheoptimumconditionsof
wastewatertreatment,completeorpartialrecycling,and
theeliminationofsolids.Theinstitutestakingpart
(Holland,Belgium,Italy,FranceandGreatBritain)have
considerable laboratoryandindustrialexperience .

-8-
Budget.
Forthethreeyearperiod,itisestimatedthattheexpenditure
incurredintheperformanceoftheprogramme,includingthe
expenditurefortwoofficials,whichshallbebornebythe
Communityshallamounttok.2M.EUAoutofatotalof7*95M.EUA
(seefinancialdocumentsforadditionalinformation).
Thosefundswillservetofinancethecost-sharing research
contractstobeconcludedbytheContractor (Comitextil )with,
thelaboratories ofthememberStatesandtocovertheexpenditurefor
themanagementandco-ordination oftheprogramme.
Implementation andManagementoftheprogramme.
TheCommissionshallberesponsible formanagingtheprogramme .
TheServices .oftheCommission,togetherwiththeContractor
(COMITEXTIL )anditsmanagementcouncil,alreadyappointedfor
thefirstprogramme,shallensurethemanagementoftheprogramme .
TheScientificandTechnicalResearchCommittee (CREST)shallbe
regularlyinformedoftheprogressofworkandoftheresults
obtainedbyresearch. ,
Dissemination ofinformation.
Thedissemination oftheinformationresultingfromtheexecution
oftheprogrammeshallbegovernedbyCouncilRegulation (EEC)
Nr2380/7^of17September197^.

-9-
FINANCIAL ASPECTS.
BudgetChapter;3720. ^-
HeadingoftheBudgettitle:secondsectoralProgrammefor
ResearchandDevelopmentinthefieldoftextileandclothing.'
f 4
JuridicalBasis. ...
•pursuanttoarticle235establishing theE.E.C. T
-Councildecision. ■~.
Description .objectivesandjustification ofaction.
U.1.Description
Theactionaimsat:
-theimprovementofthecompetitiveness oftheEuropeantextile
industryintheworld,
-meetingtherequirements andexpectations ofconsumers,
-theimprovementofworkingconditionsorproductionconditions
-theintroduction ofnewmethods,machineryorproducts,,
-economyonenergy,materialsandworkingtime
-ënvironment protection ,
-contributing towardsthemaintenance andimprovement ofthe
generaleconomyoftheE.E.C. ,
U.2.Objectives .
Tounderstandbasicdata(physico-chemical structureofnatural
andman-madefibres,identification ofrelationships between
structuresandproperties,devisingofwaysandmeansofmodify­
ingstructureinordertochangepropertieseithertoremedy t
naturaldefectsortoconferimprovedorcompletelynovel
propertiessuchasde-creasability flame-proofing ,easy-care
properties).
*
Todevisemoreefficientmanufacturing -processes (whichinvolves
studyingbothmachinesandprocesses);thisworkrequiresa
knowledgeofexistingtechnologies andofrecentresearchfindings,
sothatstepscanbetakentoprepareforthetransferofknowledge
acquiredtothestageofindustrialapplication .

-10-
4.3..Justification .
Researchanddevelopmentisanessentialpreliminarytothe
developmentofnewandimprovedproductsandthemaintenance
ofmarketsharesdespiteincreasedcompetitionthroughoutthe
world;itthusformsandessentialcomponentofCommunity
strategyinthetextilessector,(l)
FinancialincidenceofactioninM.EUA(incurrentprices)
5_10:__Financial_incidence onexpenditure .
5.0.0.Totalcostduringthetermenvisaged.
-onCommunitybudget: U.2.M.
-bythe"Industry"sector:U.05M.
TotalcostU.2.M.EUA
U.05M.EUA
8.25M.EUA
5^0.1^MultiannualSchedule^
Multiannualactionstobeenteredinthebudgetasasinglecommit­
mentappropriation forthewholetermenvisagedandaspayment
appropriations .
TableI.
Commitment
schedulesSchedulesofforeseeable payments
needsintermsofpaymentappropi
1styear2ndyear3rdyear
(single)
commitment
appropriation
dependingon
CouncilDecision 4.2 1.75é
1.575 0.875
TOTAL 4.2MUCE
Thoseactionscontinueuntiltheendofthethirdyear,TableII
showsthescheduleforpossiblepayments.
(l)AtitsU82ndmeetirgon19thJuly1978,theCommission
approvedacommunication totheCouncilongeneralguidelines
foratextilesandclothingindustrypolicy(COM78-362final
ofJuly20th1978)

-11-
TABLEII.
Actionsofthe Managementof
programme theprogramme.
1styear 1.650' 0.100 1.750
2ndyear 1.U75 0.100 1.575
3rdyear 0.775' 0.100.0.875
TOTAL 3-900- 0.300 U.200
inM.EUA.
5.0.2.Utilizationrate_ofthepaymentappropnationsin1stexercice
1stSemesterof1styear 30#i.e.0.500M.EUA
2ndsemesteroflstyear 70%i.e.1.150M.EUA
■5.0.3.Methodofcalculation .
Sincetheexpenditureinrespectofcontractsvaryaccordingtothe
natureofthesubjectsandthedifferentlegalsystemsofthe
participating laboratories ,itisnotpossibletosetupa
uniformmethodofcalculationfortheparticipation rates,
perproject.,
Inanycase,thecontractoranditsmanagementCouncilforthe
researchprogrammehaveimplemented theannualbreakdownofthe
workingexpenditureoflaboratories foreachproject,assetout
inthesummarytablegivingtheamount^ofexpenditure .

* ■
.-i2-
Laboratoriesexpendituresbrokendownperyearandperproject.
inE.U.A.
Topics (l)1styear2ndyear3rdyear TOTAL
1.Topic5 246.000 3U1+.000 396.000 986.000
[1.1.Personalcosts 186.000 261.000 299-000 746.000
1.2.Overheads 9.00012.000 14.000 35-000
1.3.Laboratories costs 9.00012.000 14.000 35.000
1.4.Costformaterials 7.0009-000 10.000 26.000
1.5-Costforinstruments 35-00050.000 59-000144.000
2.Topic6 323.000453.000 518.000h.29^.000
2.1.Personalcosts 265.000 371•000423-000 h.059.000
2.2.Overheads 13.00018.000 22.000 53.000
2.3.Laboratories costs 13.000 18.000 22.000 53.000
2.4.Costformaterials 16.00022.000 26.000 64.000
|2.5.Costforinstruments16.00024.000 25.00065.000
3.Topic7 255.000 357.000 408.0001.020.000
3.1.Personalcosts >175-000245.000 280.000 700.000
3-2.Overheads 9.00012.000 14.000 35.000
3.3.Laboratories costs -9-00012.000 14.000 35-000
3.4.Costformaterials 12.000 17.000 19.000 48.000
3.5.Costforinstruments 50.000 71.00081.000 202.000
I4.Topic8 644.000 901.000h.030.000P.575.000
1.Personalcosts 451.000631.000ΓΤ2Ο.ΟΟΟ1.802.000
i,.2.Overheads 22.00031.000 37.000 90.000
),.3.Laboratories costs 22.00031.000 37.000 90.000
),.4.Costformaterials 52.000 72.000 32.000206.000
h.5*Costforinstruments 97.000136.000 154.000387.000
5.Topic9 338.000473.000 542.0001.353.000
5.1.Personalcosts 250.000350.000 .400.0001.000.000
5.2.Overheads 13-00017.000 20.000 50.000
5.3.Laboratories costs 13.00017.000 20.000 50.000
5.4.Costformaterials 14.00019.000 21.000 54.000
5.5.Costforinstruments 48.00070.000 81.000199.000
TOTALTOPICS 1.806.000 2.528.0002.89^.0007.228.000
CENTRALMANAGEMENTEXPENDITURES J
Mana^or.ent costs:
administration costs 90.000126.000 145.000 361.000
Overheads »14.00020.000 24.000 .58.000
Trans?!texpenditures :
145.000 Meetingscosts 36.000 51.00058.000
ITechnicalandMaterialservices 27.00038.000 43.000 108.000
iUnforeseeable 13.00018.000 19.000 50.000
1GENERALEXPENDITURES TOTAL I180.000253.000 289.000 722.000
jGLOBALAMOUNT 1.986.000j ;2.781.000 3.183.000 7.950.000
(l)Topicsnumbersfollownumberappliedforthefirstcollectiveresearch
programme .

■ EstimatedbreakdownofE.E.C.contribution .
inE.U.A.
Budget
YearAnnual
break-
down
(1)Workof
labora­
tories
per
year
(1)EEC
theore-
tical
contri­
bution
(±k9%)
■K-advancepayment
at1.1.79tobe
auditedon31•
12.81(cashfund
referredtoin
Art.5-6ofthe
generalterms
andconditions .
Contract195-75~
12IRAB-Annex3,
of1stProgram.)estimate.d
E.E.C.
contri­
bution
1styear25%1.986.000 974.000 +676.000(2)1.650.000
2ndyear35%2.781.000 1.366.000 +112.000 1.478.000
3rdyearh0%3.181.0001.560.000 0 772.000
3year
J100%7.950.000 3.900.000 3.900.000
(1)cf.Annualbreakdownoflaboratoryoperatingcosts. ,
(2)i.e.70#oftheamountcontributedforthe1stbudgetyear(instead
ofthe50#effectivelypaidforprogrammeNrl),takingintoaccount
theimportantadvanceinvestmentsforworktobemade.

-14-
Listoflaboratories participating ■
Î2_^Ë_EE°S ramme*
Countries Laboratories Address
BELGIUM - CentreScientifique et
Technique del'Industrie
TextileBelge
(CENTEXBEL )RueMontoyer24
10Ï+0BRUXELLES
Onderzoekenvoorlichtings­
centrumvoornijverheidsteelten
(BEITEM)8810RuinbekeProvincie
West-Vlaanderen
NETHERLANDS Vezelinstituut TNO
(TNO)
I
Instituut voorLandbouw-
techniekenRationalisatie
(LBD)Schoenmakerstraat ,97
Postbus,110
DELFT
PostbusU3-Wageningen
FRANCE institutTextiledeFrance
(ITF)353ruedesAbondances
F92100BOULOGNE-
SUR-SEINE
Centred'EtudesTechniques des
Industries del'Habillement
(CETIH)14,ruedesReculet-
tes
F75013PARIS
IInstitutTextileduLin
(I.T.L.)5,rueduCardinal
Mercier
F75009PARIS
ITALY Tecnotessile -Centrodi
Ricerche-S.p.A.ViaValentini ,14
I500^7PRATO(Firenze)
CentroRiccercheeSperimen­
tazioneperl'Industria
Laniera"OresteRivetti"
(Rivetti)5PiassaLamarnora
I13051BIELLA
StazioneSperimentale per
laCellulosa,CartaeFibre
TessiliVegetalied
Artificiali (StazioneCell.)PiazzaLeonardoda
Vici,26
I20122MILANO

t
-15-
Countries Laboratories Address
F•R•G»Bekleidungsphysiologisches
Institut-e.v.
(B.P.I)SchlosseHohenstein ,
D712UBOENNIGHEIM
DeutschesWollforaehungB-
Institut
•(D.W.F.I)Veltmanplatz ,8
D5100AACHEN
InstitutfurTextiltechnick
(TECH)
Forschungsinstitut für
Bastfasern e.V.V
(T.F.)Burgstrasse ,29
D7^10Reutlingen ,
Bahnhoh
AmBahnhof6»Leinenmeisterhaus
D1+800BIELEFELD
UNITED
KINGD0M '-WoolIndustries Research
Association (WIRA)Headingley Lane
LeedsLS61BW
-LambegIndustrial
ResearchAssociation
(LIRA)LisburnBt27'hRJ
NorthernIreland
I
I-Cotton,Silk&Man-Made
FibersResearchAssoc.
ShirleyInstitute(SHIRLEY)Didsbury
Manchester Mro8RX
-HosieryandAllied
TradesResearchAssociation
(HATRA)7GregoryBoulevard
Nottingham NG76LD
i

-16-
Laboratoriesgarticiriation "brokendownperproject.
! Todîcs Programme
Coun- 56789 leader(P)
,riesLaborat,ories^^s^-| Topicsleaders^ (P)
ΒσίΝΤΕΧΒΕΙ, χχχχρ.6σ.δΤΚΥΟΚΜΑΝ
(Β)
ΒΕΙΤΕΜ χ
NL TNO xIxx
ΙΒϋ χ
FITF " ,xxxxP.M.CORDELIER(F )
CETIH x p.9.B.KOUSSENS(F )
ITL x
ITECWOTESSILE xp.7.M.BONA(l)
ΚίνΕΤΤΙ χ
8ΤΑΖΙ0ΝΞΟΕΙΙ.. χχ
FRGBPI x p.5.J.MECHEELS,,
vîRG)
DWFI xx
TECH. ■ x
I
T.F. x
U.K.WIRA xx
LIRA x
SHIRLEY x xp.8.HACTODD(RU)
HATRA xx
3749'7
(■NumberofInstitvte*Totalparticipations
18 *31

6.1 .Theservices oftheCommission and .theManagement Council
■-oftheprogramme shall control theimplementation ofthe
research contract .
Budget implementation :D.G. onFinancial Control
Regularity ofexpenditure :D.G. III .
-7.Financial implication oftheaction during theentire period
(inM.EUA )
7.0.1 .Expenditure (costs )shouldered bytheCommunity budget
U.200
-0.3
S
7.0.2 .Expenditure (costs )shouldered bytheindustry 4.05
TOTAL 8.25 M.EUA
8.Information onnecessarypersonnelandoperatingexpense s
implementing the action .
8.0Necessary personnel .
1.A
._ )i.e .0.300 M.EUA}■
9.Funding action
Funds tobeincluded mfuture budgets
asTemporary agents fortheduration oftheprogramme

ANNEX 1.
DECISION OFTHECOUNCILADOPTING
ASECONDMULTIANNUAL RESEARCH ANDDEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME
INTHEFIELDOFTEXTILE ANDCLOTHING FORTHEEUROPEAN
ECONOMIC COMMUNITY .
(Indirectaction)
?»

COUNCIL DECISION
ADOPTING ASECONDMULTIANNUAL RESEARCH AND-
DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME FORTHEEUROPEAN '
COWUNITYINTHEFIELDOFTEXTILEANDCLOTHING.,
ι '~
(Indirectaction).
TheCounciloftheEuropeanCommunities :
-HavingregardtotheTreatyestablishing theEuropean -
EconomicCommunity,andinparticularArticle235thereof,
-HavingregardtotheproposalfromtheCommission,
-HavingregardtotheopinionoftheEuropeanParliament,
-HavingregardtotheopinionoftheEconomicandSocialCommittee,
Whereas,onlVthJanuary197^»theCouncilhasadoptedaresolution
onthecoordination ofthenationalpoliciesandonthedefinition
ofmeasuresofCommunityinterestinthescienceandtechnology
sector;(1) . - 1
Whereas,pursuanttoArticle2oftheTreaty,theCommunityhas
thetaskofpromotingthroughouttheCommunitya.harmoniousdevelopment
ofeconomicactivitiesandacontinuousandbalancedexpansion;
Whereas,onlUthApril1975,theCounciladoptedaprogrammeof
technological researchinthetextilesector(2).
Whereastheresearchprogrammewhichisthesubjectmatterofthis;
decisionconstitutes thecontinuation oftheabovementioned -
programmeandisworkingtowardsmanyobjectives,suchas:improved
competitiveness oftheEuropeantextileandclothingindustryonthe
worldscfene;theimprovementofworkingconditionsandofproduction
conditions ;needsandexpectations ofconsumers;introduction
ofnewmethods,machineryorproducts;economyonenergy;environment
protection ;representing adecisivestageinthedevelomentofthe
textileindustrywhichisasectorofeconomicimportancetothe
Community. ,
1.OfficialJournalNrC7/6of29.1•197^P«1
2.OfficialJournalNrL111/31+of30.U.1975p.^3

Whereasthisprogramme comeswithingtheframeworkofacooperation which
hasalreadybeengoingonforseveralyearswithinthetextileindustry,
andthisprovidesguarantees astoitsrationalandfruitfulperformance ;
Whereasfromthatmomenttheresearchactionprojectswhicharethe
subjectmatterofthisdecisionappeartobenecessaryforthecarrying
outofobjectivesstatedintheTreatywithintheworkingoftheCommon
Market;
WhereastheCommissioninitscommunication totheCouncilof20July1978
ongeneralGuidelinesforatextilesandclothingindustrypolicyrecom-
mandstechnological development (COM/78362final)
WhereastheTreatydoesnotprovidethespecificpowersnecessaryfor
thispurpose;
WhereastheScientific andTechnical ResearchCommittee (CREST)has
givenitsopinionconcerning theproposalfromtheCommission;
J
HASDECIDED:
Article 1.
ToadoptaCommunity programmeforresearchanddevelopment inthe
textileandclothingsector,asdescribedintheannexhereto,fora
periodof3years.
Α£ΐΐ£ΐβ_2Λ
Theglobalrequirements forthetotalperiodoftheprogrammeare
estimatedat4.2.millionEUAandastaffcomprising twoagents,the
EUAbeingdefinedbyarticle10ofthefinancialregulations of
21stDecember1977.Thesenumericalestimatesareonlyintendedtobe
indicative .
Article3.
TheCommissionshallcarryouttheprogramme bymeansofcontracts.In
ordertoassistitinthistask,thereshallbesetupanadvisorycommit­
teeonmanagement oftheprogrammeofresearchanddevelopment inthe
fieldoftextileandclothing,whosetermsofreference andcomposition
shallbedefinedinaccordance withtheCouncilRessolution of18July
1977onadvisorycommittees onresearchprogramme management
(O.J.N°C192of11August1977,p.1).
Article4.
Theinformation resultingfromtheexecutionoftheprogrammeshallbe
disseminated inaccordance withCouncilRegulation (EEC)n°2380/74
of17September 1974(1)adoptingprovisionsforthedissemination of
information relatingtoresearchprogrammesfortheEuropeanEconomic
Community.
FortheCouncil,
DoneatBrussels,... ' ,.thePresident .
(1)O.J.N°1255of20.9.1974,p.1

ANNEX.
Theprogrammecoversthe5actionsdescribedhereunder :V;.
1)Garmentphysiologyandconstruction. ,
Theprojectissubdividedintotwosub-projects i
-transposition ofgarmentphysiologyprinciplesintopracticein
thetextileandclothingindustry;
-garmentconstruction-harmonization ofsizesystems,.
Therearefivemainobjectives : ,
-improvementofthetradebalanceoftheconcernedindustries ;
-possibilitytoscientificially preparethegarmentcharacteristics
corresponding toqualification soastoensureconsumer
protection;
-optimumdurationofarticlesandcomfortinwear,promoting
theeconomyofmaterials,revalorisation oftheprofessionsof
theclothingsector,andseekingtechnicalpossibilities of
progressing towardsaharmonization ofthesystemsofsizes
existingatCommunitylevel.
2)Qualityofknittedfabricsandknittedarticles.
Itaimsatrevealingtheparameterswhichinfluencethequality
oftheproducts ,andtheincidenceofvariationsinthoseparameters
uponquality..
- • • ' ''... i"-. >!
3)Applicationofnewspinningtechnologiesinthewoolindustry.
"Theaimofthisprojectconsistsindeveloping newspinning
technologies forwoolanditsblendsand,especially ,invcarrying
outpilottestson"open-end"machinery.This'enablestoattain
productionspeedsmuchsuperiortothoseattainedwithconventional
processes(5to10timessuperior);tothisdajrthosesystems
havearousedtheinterestofthecottonindustryandofsectors
dealingwithcertainman-madefibres.Theiradoptioninthe,wool
sectorfirstcallsforthesolvingofnumerousspecificproblems
linkedtothechemicalnatureofthefibreandofitsnatural
impurities. •_

-2-
4)Upgradingoflinen.
Theobjectivesarethefollowing :
-toincreasethequalityoftheproducts (nowadaystheflaxfibre
isfashionable )
-toimprovethetechnological aspectoftheequipmentinorder
toobtainnewproducts.
-attractiveness ofresearchforindustry:increasedproductivity ,
conferingnewproperties onthefabrics,improvingtheregularity
ofproducts.
-improvementofproductionincooperation withtheEuropean
agricultural sector.
5)Pollutiontreatmentandwaterrecyclingintextilefinishing
Thereclamation ofpollutingproductscallsforapreliminary
investigation whichwillbeeffectedthroughthecreationofadata-
bankenablingtosetupamathematical modelofpollution .
Moreover,amethodwillbedevisedformeasuringthecolouring
ofeffluents .Oneofthebasicobjectivesofthisactionisthe
purification ofwater,thesavingofwaterandthealleviationofthe
alreadyheavychargesresultingfromthosecostswhicharefarhigher
thantheonessupportedbythirdcompetitors .