1999D0178 — EN — 01.06.2002 — 001.001 — 1
This document is meant purely as a documentation tool and the institutions do not assume any liability for its contents
►B COMMISSIONDECISION
of17February1999
establishingtheecological criteria fortheawardoftheCommunityeco-label totextile products
(notified under document number C(1999) 339)
(TextwithEEArelevance)
(1999/178/EC)
(OJ L 57, 5.3.1999, p. 21)
Amended by:
Official Journal
No page date
►M1Commission Decision 2002/371/EC of 15 May 2002 L 133 29 18.5.2002
▼B
COMMISSIONDECISION
of17February1999
establishingtheecologicalcriteriafortheawardoftheCommunity
eco-label totextile products
(notified under document number C(1999) 339)
(TextwithEEArelevance)
(1999/178/EC)
THE COMMISSION OF THE EUROPEAN COMMUNITIES,
Having regard to the Treaty establishing the European Community,
Having regard to Council Regulation (EEC) No 880/92 of 23 March
1992 on a Community eco-label award scheme(1), and in particular
the second subparagraph of Article 5(1) thereof,
Whereas the first subparagraph of Article 5(1) of Regulation (EEC)
No 880/92 providesthat the conditionsfor the award of the Commu-nity eco-label shall be defined by product group;
WhereasArticle 10(2) of Regulation (EEC) No 880/92 s tatesthat the
environmental performance of a product shall be assessed by referenceto the specific criteria for product groups;
Whereas, in accordance with Article 6 of Regulation (EEC) No 880/92,
the Commission has consulted the principal interest groups within aconsultation forum;
Whereas the measures set out in this Decision are in accordance with
the opinion of the committee set up under Article 7 of Regulation
(EEC) No 880/92,
HAS ADOPTED THIS DECISION:
Article 1
The product group ‘textile products’ (hereinafter referred to as ‘the
product group’) shall mean:
textile clothing: clothing consisting at least 90 % by weight of
textile fibres,
interior textiles: textile products for indoor use, consisting at least
90 % by weight of textile fibres, and excluding floor coverings,
yarn and fabric, for use in textile clothing or interior textiles.
Article 2
The environmental performance and the fitness for use of the product
group as defined in Article 1 shall be assessed by reference to the
specific ecological and fitness-for-use criteria set out in the Annex.
Article 3
The product group definition and the specific ecological criteria for the
product group shall be valid until 31 May 2003.
Article 4
For administrative purposes the code number assigned to the product
group shall be ‘016’.1999D0178 — EN — 01.06.2002 — 001.001 — 2
(1) OJ L 99, 11. 4. 1992, p. 1.▼M1
▼B
▼B
Article 5
This Decision is addressed to the Member States.1999D0178 — EN — 01.06.2002 — 001.001 — 3
▼B
ANNEX
In order to qualify for an eco-label, the product asdefined in Article 1 mus t
comply with the criteria of thisAnnex, with tes tscarried out on application as
indicated in the criteria. Where appropriate, other test methods may be used if
their equivalence is accepted by the competent body assessing the application.
Where no tests are mentioned, or are mentioned as being for use in verification
or monitoring, competent bodiess hould rely asappropriate on declarationsand
documentation provided by the applicant and/or independent verifications.
The competent bodiesare recommended to take into account the implementation
of recognised environmental management schemes, such as EMAS or ISO
14001, when assessing applications and monitoring compliance with the criteria
in thisAnnex.
These criteria aim in particular at promoting the reduction of water pollution
related to the key processes throughout the textile manufacturing chain,
including fibre production, spinning, weaving, knitting, bleaching, dyeing and
finishing.
Functionalunit
The functional unit, to which inputs and outputs should be related, is:
1 kg of textile product at normal conditions(65 % RH ± 2 % and 20 ºC
± 2 ºC — these norm conditions are specified in ISO 139 Textiles — stan-
dard atmospheres for conditioning and testing).
A.ECOLOGICALCRITERIA
The ecological criteria are divided into two main categories, concerning textile
fibres (A1) and processes and chemicals (A2).
A1. TEXTILE FIBRES
Fibre-specific criteria are set in this section A1 for acrylic, cotton, elastane, flax
and other bast fibres, greasy wool and other keratin fibres, man-made cellulose
fibres, polyamide, polyester and polypropylene. Other fibres for which no fibre
specific criteria are set are also allowed, with the exception of mineral fibres,
glass fibres, metal fibres, carbon fibres and other inorganic fibres.
The applicant shall supply detailed information as to the composition of the
textile product. The criteria set in this section Al for a given fibre-type need
not be met if that fibre contributesto les sthan 5 % of the total weight of the
textile fibresin the product. Similarly they need not be met if the fibresare of
recycled origin. In thiscontext, recycled fibresare defined asfibresoriginating
only from cuttingsfrom textile and clothing manufacturersor from pos t-
consumer waste (textile or otherwise). Neverthelss, at least 85 % by weight of
all fibres in the product must be either in compliance with the corresponding
fibre-specific criteria, if any, or of recycled origin.
1.Acrylic
(a) The residual acrylonitrile content in raw white fibres leaving the fibre
production plant shall be less than 1,5 mg/kg.
Test-method: extraction with boiling water and quantification by capil-
lary gas-liquid chromatography. Test report required on application.
(b) The emissions to air of acrylonitrile (during polymerisation and up to
the solution ready for spinning), expressed as an annual average, shall
be less than 1 g/kg of fibre produced.
2.Cotton
Cotton fibres shall not contain more than 0,05 ppm (sensibility of the test
method permitting) of each of the following substances: aldrin, captafol,
chlordane, DDT, dieldrin, endrin, heptachlor, hexachlorobenzene, hexa-
chlorocyclohexane (total isomers), 2,4,5-T, chlordimeform, chlorobenzilate,
dinoseb and its salts, and monocrotophos.
Test methods: as appropriate, US EPA 8081 A (organo-chlorine pesticides,
with ultrasonic or Soxhlet extraction and apolar solvents (iso-octane or
hexane)), 8151 A (chlorinated herbicides, using methanol), 8141 A (organo-
phosphorus compounds), or 8270 C (semi-volatile organic compounds). Test
report required on application.1999D0178 — EN — 01.06.2002 — 001.001 — 4
▼B
Thisrequirement doesnot apply where more than 50 % of the cotton
content is organic, that is to say certified by an independent organisation
to have been produced in conformity with the production and inspection
requirementslaid down in Council Regulation (EEC) No 2092/91(1).
Thisrequirement doesnot apply if documentary evidence can be pres ented
that establishes the identity of the farmers producing at least 75 % of the
cotton used in the final product, together with a declaration from these
farmers that the substances listed above have not been applied to the fields
or cotton plants producing the cotton in question, or to the cotton itself.
Where more than 95 % of the cotton isorganic, that isto s ay certified by an
independent organisation to have been produced in conformity with the
production and inspection requirements laid down in Regulation (EEC)
No 2092/91, the applicant may place the mention ‘organic cotton’ next to
the eco-label.
3.Elastane
(a) The content of zinc shall not exceed 1 000 ppm.
Test method: direct determination by atomic absorbtion spectrometry.
Test report required on application
(b) The emissions to air of aromatic diisocyanates during polymerisation
and spinning, expressed as an annual average, shall be less than 5 mg/
kg of fibre produced.
4.Flaxandotherbastfibres(includinghemp,jute,andramie)
Flax and other bast fibres shall not be obtained by water retting, unless the
wastewater from the water retting is treated so as to reduce the COD or
TOC by at least 75 % for hemp fibres and by at least 95 % for linen and
the other bast fibres.
Test method: ISO 6060 (COD). Test report required on application if water
retting used.
5.Greasy wool and other keratin fibres (including wool from sheep,
camel,alpaca,goat)
(a) The sum total content of the following substances shall not exceed
0,5 ppm: α-hexachlorocyclohexane, β-hexachlorocyclohexane, lindane
(γ-hexachlorocyclohexane), δ-hexachlorocyclohexane, aldrin, dieldrin,
endrin, p,p ′-DDT, p,p ′-DDD.
(b) The sum total content of the following substances shall not exceed
2 ppm: propetamphos, diazinon, dichlofenthion, fenchlorphos, chlorfen-
vinphos.
(c) The sum total content of the following substances shall not exceed
3 ppm: cyhalothrin, cypermethrin, deltamethrin, fenvalerate.
These requirements (as detailed in (a), (b) and (c) and taken separately)
do not apply if documentary evidence can be presented that establishes
the identity of the farmersproducing at leas t 75 % of the wool or
keratin fibres in question, together with a declaration from these farmers
that the substances listed above have not been applied to the fields or
animalsconcerned.
Test method for (a), (b) and (c): serial non-polar/polar solvent extrac-
tion, clean up with gel permeation chromatography and determination
with capillary gas-liquid chromatography with electron capture detec-
tion. Test report required on application.
(d) For scouring effluent discharged to sewer, the COD discharged to sewer
shall not exceed 60 g/kg greasy wool, and the effluent shall be treated
off-site so as to achieve at least a further 75 % reduction of COD
content.
For scouring effluent treated on site and discharged to surface waters,
the COD discharged to surface waters shall not exceed 5 g COD/kg
greasy wool. The pH of the effluent discharged to surface waters shall
be between 6 and 9 (unless the pH of the receiving waters is outside
this range), and the temperature shall be below 40 ºC (unless the
temperature of the receiving water isabove thisvalue).
Test method for (d): ISO 6060. Test report and appropriate data
required on application.1999D0178 — EN — 01.06.2002 — 001.001 — 5
(1) OJ L 198, 22. 7. 1991, p. 1.
▼B
6.Man-made cellulose fibres (including viscose, lyocell, acetate, cupro,
triacetate)
(a) The level of AOX in the fibress hall not exceed 250 ppm
Test method: ISO 11480.97 (controlled combustion and microcoulo-
metry). Test report required on application.
(b) For viscose fibres, the sulphur content of the emissions of sulphur
compounds to air from the processing during fibre production,
expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 160 g/kg filament fibre
produced and 30 g/kg staple fibre produced. Where both types of fibre
are produced on a given site, the overall emissions must not exceed the
corresponding weighted average.
(c) For viscose fibres, the emission to water of zinc from the production
site, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 1 g/kg.
(d) For cupro fibres, the copper content of the effluent water leaving the
site, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 0,1 ppm.
7.Polyamide
The emissions to air of N2O during monomer production, expressed as an
annual average, shall not exceed 1 g/kg fibre produced.
8.Polyester
(a) The amount of antimony in the polyester fibres shall not exceed
300 ppm.
Test method: direct determination by atomic absorbtion spectrometry.
Test report required on application
(b) The emissions of VOCs during polymerisation of polyester, expressed
as an annual average, shall not exceed 1,2 g/kg of produced polyester
resin. (VOCs are any organic compound having at 293,15 K a vapour
pressure of 0,01 kPa or more, or having a corresponding volatility under
the particular conditionsof us e.)
9.Polypropylene
Lead based pigments shall not be used.
A2. PROCESSES AND CHEMICALS
The criteria in this section apply, where appropriate, to all stages of production
of the product, including the production of the fibres. It is nevertheless accepted
that recycled fibres may contain some of the dyes or other substances excluded
by these criteria, but only if they were applied in the previous life-cycle of the
fibres.
10.Carding and spinning oils, waxes, finishes, lubricants and sizeing
appliedtofibresoryarns
(a) At each given manufacturing step where carding and spinning oils,
waxes, finishes, or lubricants are applied to fibres or yarns, the
substances applied individually or at least 90 % (by dry weight) of the
component substances of the preparations applied shall be sufficiently
biodegradable or eliminable in waste water treatment plants.
At least 95 % (by dry weight) of the component substances of any
sizeing preparation applied to fibres or yarns shall be sufficiently biode-
gradable or eliminable in waste water treatment plants, or else shall be
recycled.
In this context, a substance is considered as sufficiently biodegradable
or eliminable:
— if when tested with one of the methods OECD 301 A, OECD 301 E,
ISO 7827, OECD 302 A, ISO 9887, OECD 302 B, or ISO 9888 it
shows a percentage degradation of at least 70 % within 28 days,
— or if when tested with one of the methods OECD 301 B, ISO 9439,
OECD 301 C, OECD 302 C, OECD 301 D, ISO 10707, OECD 301
F, ISO 9408, ISO 10708 or ISO 14593 it shows a percentage degra-
dation of at least 60 % within 28 days,
— or if when tested with one of the methods OECD 303 or ISO 11733
it shows a percentage degradation of at least 80 % within 28 days,
— or, for substances for which these test methods are inapplicable, if
evidence of an equivalent level of biodegradation or elimination is
presented.
This requirement does not apply to inorganic substances or silicone oils.
Test methods and thresholds as above. Test report required on applica-
tion if appropriate (notably if sufficient information on the1999D0178 — EN — 01.06.2002 — 001.001 — 6
▼B
biodegradability or eliminability of the substances used is not avail-
able).
(b) Mineral oils used shall not contain more than 1 ppm of aromatic
compounds.
11.TCPandPCP
Tetrachlorophenol and pentachlorphenol (their salts and esters) shall not be
used.
Test method for purposes of verification on yarn, fabric or final product:
extraction asappropriate, derivatis ation with acetic anhydride, determination
by capillary gas-liquid chromatography with electron capture detection,
limit value 0,05 ppm.
12.Strippingordepigmentation
Heavy metal salts (except of iron) or formaldehyde shall not be used for
stripping or depigmentation.
13.Weighting
Compounds of cerium shall not be used in the weighting of yarn or fabrics.
14.Detergents,fabricsoftenersandcomplexingagents
(a) Alkylphenolethoxylates (APEOs), bis(hydrogenated tallow alkyl)
dimethyl ammonium chloride (DTDMAC), distearyl dimethyl ammo-
nium chloride (DSDMAC), di(hardened tallow) dimethyl ammonium
chloride (DHTDMAC) and ethylene diamine tetra acetate (EDTA) shall
not be used and shall not be part of any preparations or formulations
used.
(b) At each wet-processing site, more than 95 % by weight of the deter-
gents, fabric softeners and complexing agents used shall be sufficiently
degradable or eliminable in waste water treatment plants (as defined
above in the criterion related to carding and spinning oils, waxes,
finishes, lubricants and sizeing).
Test methods and thresholds as defined in the criterion above related to
carding and spinning oils, waxes, finishes, lubricants and sizeing. Test
report required on application if appropriate (notably if sufficient infor-
mation on the biodegradability or eliminability of the substances used is
not available).
15.Bleachingagents
In general, AOX emissions in the mixed bleaching effluent shall be less
than 40 mg C1/kg. In the following cases, the level shall be less than
100 mg C1/kg:
— wool before printing,
— linen and other bast fibres,— cotton which hasa degree of polymeris ation below 1 800 and which is
intended for white end products.
Thisrequirement doesnot apply to the production of man-made cellulos e
fibres.
Test method: ISO 9562 or prEN 1485. Test report required on application
only if chlorinated bleaching agentsare us ed.
16.Impuritiesindyes
The levels of ionic impurities for dyes used shall not exceed the following:
As50 ppm; Cd 20 ppm; Cr 100 ppm; Cu 250 ppm; Hg 4 ppm; Ni 200 ppm;
Pb 100 ppm; Sb 50 ppm; Sn 250 ppm; Zn 1500 ppm.
17.Impuritiesinpigments
The levels of ionic impurities for pigments used shall not exceed the
following: As50 ppm; Cd 50 ppm; Cr 100 ppm; Hg 25 ppm; Pb 100 ppm;
Sb 250 ppm; Zn 1000 ppm.
18.Chromemordantdyeing
Chrome mordant dyeing shall only be used for wools and other keratin
fibres, and only if low-chrome dyeing is applied, as follows:
(a) no more than 1,8 % of potassium dichromate nor more than 1,5 % of
sodium dichromate (oww) to be used for chroming blacks, no more
than 1 % of these substances for chroming other shades;
(b) the exhausted chroming bath must not contain more than 5 mg/l Cr III
or 0.5 mg/l Cr VI.1999D0178 — EN — 01.06.2002 — 001.001 — 7
▼B
Test method: atomic absorbtion spectrometry. Test report required on
application only if chrome mordant dyeing isus ed.
19.Metalcomplexdyes
If metal complex dyes based on copper, chromium or nickel are used:
(a) where the metal complex dye constitutes more than 20 % of the dye
components, less than 7 % of the dyestuff applied (input to the process)
shall be discharged to waste water treatment (whether on-site or off-
site);
(b) the emissions to water after treatment shall not exceed: Cu 75 mg/kg
(staple, yarn or fabric); Cr 50 mg/kg; Ni 75 mg/kg.
Test method: ISO 8288 for Cu, Ni; ISO 9174 or prEN 1233 for Cr. Test
report required on application if the corresponding metal complex dyes
are used.
20.Azodyes
Azo dyes shall not be used that may cleave to any one of the following
aromatic amines:
4-aminodiphenyl (92-67-1)
benzidine (92-87-5)
4-chloro-o-toluidine (95-69-2)2-naphthylamine (91-59-8)
o-amino-azotoluene (97-56-3)
2-amino-4-nitrotoluene (99-55-8)p-chloroaniline (106-47-8)
2,4-diaminoanisol (615-05-4)
4,4′-diaminodiphenylmethane (101-77-9)
3,3′-dichlorobenzidine (91-94-1)4
3,3′-dimethoxybenzidine (119-90-4)
3,3′-dimethylbenzidine (119-93-7)
3,3′-dimethyl-4,4 ′-diaminodiphenylmethane (838-88-0)
p-cresidine (120-71-8)
4,4′-methylene-bis-(2-chloraniline) (101-14-4)
4,4′-oxydianiline (101-80-4)
4,4′-thiodianiline (139-65-1)
o-toluidine (95-53-4)2,4-diaminotoluene (95-80-7)
2,4,5-trimethylaniline (137-17-7)
4-aminoazobenzene (60-09-3)o-anisidine (90-04-0)
Test method if required for verification: German method B-82.02 or French
method XP G 08-014, 30 ppm threshold. ( Note:false positives may be
possible with respect to the presence of 4-aminoazobenzene, and confirma-
tion istherefore recommended).
21.Dyesthatarecarcinogenic, mutagenicortoxictoreproduction
The following dyes shall not be used:
(a) C.I. Solvent Yellow 1
C.I. Solvent Yellow 2C.I. Solvent Yellow 3C.I. Basic Red 9C.I. Disperse Blue 1C.I. Acid Red 26;1999D0178 — EN — 01.06.2002 — 001.001 — 8
▼B
(b) any dye or dye preparation that is assigned or may be assigned any of
the risk phrases R45 (may cause cancer), R46 (may cause heritable
genetic damage), R60 (may impair fertility) or R61 (may cause harm
to the unborn child), asdefined in Council Directive 67/548/EEC(1),
as last amended by Commission Directive 98/73/EEC(2).
22.Potentiallysensitisingdyes
The following potentially sensitising dyes shall only be used if the fastness
to perspiration (acid and alkaline) of the dyed yarn or fabric is at least 4:
C.I. Disperse Blue 3
C.I. Disperse Blue 35
C.I. Disperse Blue 106
C.I. Disperse Blue 124C.I. Disperse Yellow 3
C.I. Disperse Orange 3
C.I. Disperse Orange 37/76C.I. Disperse Red 1.
Test method for colour fastness: ISO 105-E04. Test report required on
application only if one or more of these dyes are used.
23.Halogenatedcarriers
Halogenated carriers shall not be used.
24.Printing
(a) Printing pastes used shall not contain more than 5 % volatile organic
compounds(VOCs : any organic compound having at 293,15 K a vapour
pressure of 0,01 kPa or more, or having a corresponding volatility under
the particular conditionsof us e).
(b) Plastisol-based printing is not allowed.
25.Formaldehyde
The amount of free and partly hydrolysable formaldehyde in the final fabric
shall not exceed 30 ppm for products intended for infants of less than 2
yearsof age, 75 ppm for productsthat come into direct contact with the
skin, and 300 ppm for all other products.
Test method: Japan Law 112, PRENISO 14184-1 or Finnish standard SFS
4996. Test report required on application (except for yarns).
26.Wastewaterdischargesfromwet-processing
(a) Waste water from wet-processing sites (except greasy wool scouring
sites) shall, when discharged to surface waters after treatment (whether
on-site or off-site), have a COD content of less than 25 g/kg.
(b) If the effluent is treated on site and discharged directly to surface
waters, it shall also have a pH between 6 and 9 (unless the pH of the
receiving water is outside this range) and a temperature of less than
40 ºC (unless the temperature of the receiving water is above this
value).
Test method: ISO 6060. Test report and appropriate data required on
application.
27.Flameretardants
No use is allowed of flame retardant substances or preparations containing
substances that are assigned or may be assigned any of the risk phrases R45
(may cause cancer), R46 (may cause heritable genetic damage), R50 (very
toxic to aquatic organisms), R51 (toxic to aquatic organisms), R52 (harmful
to aquatic organisms), R53 (may cause long-term adverse effects in the
aquatic environment), R60 (may impair fertility) or R61 (may cause harm
to the unborn child), asdefined in Directive 67/548/EEC.
Thisrequirement doesnot apply to flame retardantsthat on application
change their chemical nature to no longer warrant classification under any
of the R-phrases listed above, and where less than 0,1 % of the flame retar-
dant on the treated yarn or fabric remainsin the form asbefore application.1999D0178 — EN — 01.06.2002 — 001.001 — 9
(1) OJ L 196, 16. 8. 1967, p. 1.
(2) OJ L 305, 16. 11. 1998, p. 1.
▼B
28.Shrinkresistantfinishes
Halogenated shrink-resist substances or preparations shall only be applied to
wool slivers.
B.FITNESSFORUSE
The following tests shall be carried out on either the dyed yarn, the final
fabric(s), or on the final product as appropriate.
29.Dimensionalchangesduringwashinganddrying
The dimensional changes shall not exceed 6 % (length and width) for
knitted products, 8 % (warp and weft) for terry towelling, or 4 % for other
woven products. This criterion does not apply to products clearly labelled
‘dry clean only’ or equivalent (insofar as it is normal practice for such
products to be so labelled), or to furniture fabrics.
Test method: ISO 5077 (three washes at temperatures as indicated on the
product, with tumble drying unless otherwise indicated on the product, at
temperaturesasmarked on the product, was h load (2 or 4 kg) asindicated
on the product). Test report required on application.
30.Colourfastnesstowashing
The colour fastness to washing shall be at least level 3-4 (colour change and
staining). This criterion does not apply to products clearly labelled ‘dry
clean only’ or equivalent (insofar as it is normal practice for such products
to be s o labelled), to white productsor productsthat are neither dyed nor
printed, or to furniture fabrics.
Test method: ISO 105 C06 (single wash, at temperature as marked on the
product, with perborate powder). Test report required on application.
31.Colourfastnesstoperspiration(acid,alkaline)
The colour fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline) shall be at least level
3-4 (colour change and staining). This criterion does not apply to white
products, to products that are neither dyed nor printed, to furniture fabrics,
curtainsor s imilar textilesintended for interior decoration. A level of 3 is
nevertheless allowed when fabrics are both light coloured (standard depth
< 1/12) and made of silk or of blends with more than 20 % silk.
Test method: ISO 105 E04 (acid and alkaline, comparison with multi-fibre
fabric). Test report required on application.
32.Colourfastnesstowetrubbing
The colour fastness to wet rubbing shall be at least level 2-3. A level of 2 is
nevertheless allowed for indigo dyed denim. This criterion does not apply to
white products, products that are neither dyed nor printed, or to curtains or
similar textiles intended for interior decoration.
Test method: ISO 105 X12. Test report required on application.
33.Colourfastnesstodryrubbing
The colour fastness to dry rubbing shall be at least level 4. A level of 3-4 is
nevertheless allowed for indigo dyed denim. This criterion does not apply to
white productsor productsthat are neither dyed nor printed, or to curtains
or similar textiles intended for interior decoration.
Test method: ISO 105 X12. Test report required on application.
34.Colourfastnesstolight
For fabrics intended for furniture, curtains or drapes, the colour fastness to
light shall be at least level 5. A level of 4 is nevertheless allowed when
fabrics are both light coloured (standard depth < 1/12) and made of silk,
wool or other keratin fibres, linen or other bast fibres, or of blends with
more than 20 % wool or other keratin fibres, or of blends with more than
20 % silk, or of blends with more than 20 % linen or other bast fibres.
Note: this requirement does not apply to mattress ticking.
Test method: ISO 105 B02. Test report required on application.
C.ENERGYANDWATERUSE
The applicant is requested, on a voluntary basis, to provide detailed infor-
mation on water and energy use for the manufacturing sites involved in
spinning, knitting, weaving and wet-processing.1999D0178 — EN — 01.06.2002 — 001.001 — 10