Evening star., 1963-05-26
"A SIGHT FOR SORE EYES
Flag Guided Everest Team

KATMANDU, Nepal, May rs
(AP) Going up the west ridge
was tough and--as one Of the
Americans said-"often pretty
rotten" But, then, over a rise
they saw the Stars and Stripes
whipping in the wind. They
homed on 1t and in a short
while stood next to it on the
bowling top of Mount Everest.
1t was the flag planted in
the snow on the 29,O28-foot
peak on May / by James w.
Whitaker of Redmond, WASH,
and Nawang Gombu, a Sherpa
guide.
ut was a sight for sore eyes"
the United States Mount Ever
est expedition reported today.
Standing with the flag on the
worlds highest peak. William
Unsoeld, SO, of Corvallis, Oreg.,
and Thomas Hornbein, 80, Of
San Diego, Calf, made noun
tain-climbing history. They
were the first men on record to
make a successful assault on
Everest by way Of the perilous
west ridge.
Climb Unpleasant"
The climb, Mr.. Hornbein re-
ported by radio, was generally
pretty unpleasant" with rock
lodges sloping downward. When
he and Mr.. Unsoeld saw the
flag, he said, I'VE aimed
straight for it,"
Mr.. Hornbein said he and
Mr.. Unsoeld climbed part OF
the time on Everest's north
face, slightly down from the
crest of the ridge. According
TO the latest maps and an ex-
pedition spokesman, the north
face is technically in Tibet.
Mr.. Hornbein said most OF
the going was on rock until
they reached the summit snow
field. Westerly winds kept the
rock snow-free.
These bits of information on
the first double United States
conquest of Mount Everest be-
gan filtering down to head
quarters here over walkie-
talkie radios carried by the
climbers. They held back Cn a
full report because the radio
batteries were running low.
Went By South Ridge
Expedition leader Norman r.
Dyhrenfurth reported that the
team Of Barry c. Bishop, 80.
Of Washington, DC, and Lu-
ther Jerstad, 20, Of Eugene,
Ore, had reached the summit
via the south ridge ahead OF
Mr.. Hornbein and Mr.. Unsoeld.
The south ridge team arrived
at the summit at $3.50 pm.
Wednesday after getting q late
start because q butane fire in
their tent at the 27,450-foot
camp burned their boards Off"
Mr.. Dyhrenfurth reported.
They didn't find the west
ridge team at the top and
started down. But as they set
out, they spotted Mr.. Horn
bein and Mr.. Unsoeld approach
ing from the west ridge. The
west team reached the summit
at $3.50 pm. and the four
started down together.
Darkness close in and they
were unable to find Camp 8.
They spent the night in the
open-without tents or sleep
ing bags-2S,000 feet above
sea level, o Jet plane height.
During the night Mr.. Un-
soeld and Mr.. Bishop suffered
frostbitten toes and an effort
Is being made to get them back
to Katmandu by helicopter as
soon as possible. 1t may take
two or three days.
Temperature at Zero
Mr.. Bishop reported the tenn
perature was at zero that night |
but there was almost no wind. |
"If winds had been like they |
are In the day-50 to 70 miles |
an hour-I would not be talk |
ing to you now" Mr.. Bishop |
told headquarters here by ra-
dio.
Both Mr.. Bishop and Mr.. |
Unsoeld reported to their wives !
that other than their FROST |
bitten toes they were fine.
We'll. we are off the peak |
and safe and sound" Mr..
Bishop told his wife, Lila.
Mr.. Unsoeld told his wife.
Jolene: II have sore feet but |
/ am getting home sooner and |
maybe it's all for the best"