Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1963-11-17
Rose Planting Tips;
Drainage Is VitoI

beds. Such beds should be from
II to Is inches in height and
may be enclosed in wood, metal
or masonry walls. Masonry and
metal supported beds are less
likely to dry out than wooden
ones. This can be an important
factor If the beds are only 2 feet
or less in width. In other words,
narrow beds that tend to dry
out require almost c constant
watering.
In Unprepared Beds
D. Where none Of the forego-
ing m e h o d S are applicable,
rose bushes may be planted In.
an unprepared hole or bed. In
such a planting, top-quality
growth cannot be expected, but
also there is very little likei-
hood of the roses standing in a
wateflogged soil. In unprepared
soil-nothing added-water does
not penetrate easily and conse-
quently will not be held In a ba-
sin (planting hole or bed). If the
soil we're prepared, moisture
would penetrate readily and not
being able to escape would
cause root rot.
Don't Crowd Roses
Custom over the years has
encouraged the planting Of roses
| in beds. The facilitates soil
preparation, feeding, cultivat-
ing, spraying and other cultural
practices. Plantin 6 In beds,
however, is subject to one seri-
GUS danger. We tend to crowd
the bushes too closely together,
and they suffer for lack of air
circulation and exposure to sun
light. Recommendations are
easily to be found which call for
a spacing of is or 10 inches.
Strong growing rose bushes
need a minimum Of "a, and 80
inches is not excessive. Unless
adequate spacing can be given,
the roses might well be planted
in idividual holes scattered
about the yard. Of course, when
so planted, they do not provide
the show of color that a bed
does but neither do they seem
so vulnerable to disease.
Because of the freedom of |
bloom Of the polyantha and flo |
r bun d a varieties, many are |
planting them as borders along
d riveways and walks. The
above comments on bed prepar-
alton S h ould apply to such |
However, many of |
these vigorous growing, hardy, !
dependable, free Towering roses
will do fairly well with a mini
mum Of bed preparation-that
is, if the subsoil drainage is suf-
ficient.
Planting KnOw-HOw
When planted In beds or in
holes, it is quite important that
ample room be available for
each bush so that the roots may
be spread out in a normal fash
ion. Crowding the roots into a
small hole is a very undesirable
practice, and the r esulting
growth will be disappointing.
Many gardeners make a small
mound or cone Of soil in the bot
tom Of the planting hole, and
the roots may be spread evenly
over this surface.
Allowance for settling should
be made when the bush is
placed in the planting hole. The
bud joint, or nuckle, where the
top joins the root syste m,
should be at soil level after set
ting has taken place. Many
rose growers use a notched
stick to guide the placement of
the new bush.
AS the planting hole is being
filled, the soil should be firmed
about the roots, but care should
be taken not to damage the
roots in this firming.
With the hole filled, the
next step is to mound the newly
planted rose to a height of 8 or
10 inches. This is to protect the
canes Of the newly planted rose
bush from injury by drying win
ter winds. The soil, sawdust or
other material used in making
the mound should be firmed
into place so that it will with
stand winter rains. With the
mound completed, the C ane S
should be shortened so that they
do not extend more than an
inch or two outside of the
mound. Of course, this mound is
removed in late March or early
April by which time the new
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