davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1963-11-17

Jean Desses' checkered
beige and eroy for this
wool coot and motch-
ing silk dress with
lovely spring airs. 1t
may be ordered
through Soks LoBou-
tique.
eggshell, bined with
candy sweet colors. Jean
Desses has created a series
of stunning dresses with some
amusing gadgets among
them: an afternoon dress
with a capelike bolero over
the shoulders. At the right
moment the wearer throws
the bolero over her back and
it becomes an additional
panel Of the skirt; a dress and
coat in the same checkered
print, only one is in q soft
wooden fabric and the other
the dresS-in pure silk. Most
of his creations have a white
rose in the center of the col
lar. His linen dresses are
often belted in front, and
straight, or better with q
sophisticated line In the back.
Very new and amusing are
the long sleeves for the eve
ming; the chiffon dresses
with jackets in all shades of
blues by Jacques Helm; the
silken ensembles by Jeanne
Lanvin, who created such
chic blouses with her famous
silk scarves, and the coat
dresses by Guy Laroche, who
makes them in linen as we'll
as in silk to wear during the
day and for cocktails, too.
Some Of his other cocktail
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1963-11-17
By ANDREA
Star Special Writer


PARIS.-With this years
long lasting and sunny fall,
many a winter wardrobe is
still in the making and some
girls haven't even decided
yet what they will wear for
the Christmas holidays.
But newspapermen tor
womenD and buyers are
already gathering in front Of
the first spring collections to
get a glimpse Of next sum-
mer's fashions.
Maria Carine Is currently
showing her collection "Pret-
a-Porter Creations" mean
ing Ready to = Wear High
Fashion" created by four of
the big Paris couturiers. for
their "boutique."
Nearly every big Paris
fashion house has its "bou-
tique" where less expensive
models (the word cheap"
doesn't exist in the fashion
world are created and re-
produced in greater num-
bers. It's the highest form
Of ready-to-wear clothes. de-
signed by the couturier him
self and sold under his label.
Some are more exclusive,
like Dior, some a little less,
like Pierre Cardin, who de-
signs a whole collection to
be sold in the Paris depart
ment store, lie Printemps."
Others have adopted q spe-
cial formula for their "bou-
tique." Among them is a
group Of four: Jacques Helm,
Guy Laroche, Jeanne Lanvin
and Jean Desses. The latter
has recently closed his big
Paris house and is designing
for his boutique only.
She Executes Them
All four designers are
grouped together with Maria
Carine. who designs their
models exclusively for their
Paris boutiques (they cannot
be sold elsewhere in Paris
and some specialized shops in
the province and for export,
Of course.
Mrs. Charles Bohlen, wife
Of the American Ambassador
in Paris, accompanied by Re-
becca Hamilton from Harpers
Bazaar. assisted the first
show and said afterwards that
she was very much impressed
by the beauty Of the colors
and the quality Of the show
indeed.
Really new are the soft
wooden fabrics, the smooth
linen. the chiffon prints and
the summer crepes, all in in
credible colors. like many diff
ferent pinks, unusual blues,
icy green's and flattering
oranges.
But there are soft shades,
too. in beige and gray and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1963-11-17

world we're there, looking
closely-and buying steadily.
For those creations are not
too expensive and their re-
tail prices range between
s125 and $500.
With the big success Maria
Carine encountered during
the French week in Cali
fornia where Magnin pre-
sented her latest collection,
several American buyers are
interested and Mrs. Adrienne
Lettre from Washington has
bought several beauties" for
her shops. Saks LaBoutique
and Pasternak.
All the models bear the
original label inside. Like
Guy-Laroche- Boutique, the
name Of Maria Carine ap-
pears nowhere, her house
being only the executioner
and the distributor.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1963-11-17
Tartan Ball to Bill
Fancy Highland Dress

Bright Scottish tartans
will swirl through the Shera-
ton Hall Of the Sheraton
Park Hotel on the 22nd at
the l4th annual Tartan Ball
Of the st. Andrews Society Of
Washington.
About TOO m e m bers and
guests are expected to attend
the event with many of the
men wearing the traditional
Highland dress.
After participating in a
grand march at 9 pm, the
women, wearing gay tartan
sashes over their ballgowns,
and their escorts, dressed in
kits Of their clan tartan, will
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1963-11-17

take the floor for Scottish
country dances as well as
modern dances to the music
Of Tiny Meeker'S orchestra.
The skirling pipes and roll
ing drums Of the st. Andrews
Society Bagpipes Band under
Pipe Major william Stokoe,
jr. will add further color and
pageantry to the occasion.
Mr.. Harry c. Ways heads
the ball committee which in
cludes Mr.. william E. James,
Mr.. Norman Kindness, Mr..
Duncan Mackenzie, Mr.. j. A.
Mccartney, Mr.. William Sto-
koe and Mr.. william A.
Smith.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1963-11-17
PARIS REPORT
First Glimpse of New Fashions

dresses are nothing more
than refined shirt dresses,
but with special high-faShion
touch.
All four Of them show long
evening suits. They haven't
really taken in Paris yet, but
they are bound to be adopted
by at least some happy few.
Definite Trends
Some things can already be
taken for granted: Sleeves
are long or nonexistent;
skirts are neither full nor
tight. but cleverly in-betWeen
and the main asset Of the
new line lies in the color
and the fabric, q fact that
will make the copiers vince,
for a high-fashion fabric
can be recognized immedi-
ately.
Buyers from all over the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1963-11-17

Wee Mousie, to skitter ocross his
tie :. perch on her lapel or bog.
A worldwide good luck" symbol,
our little mouse is lax solid gold
with flashing Diamond in the
toll. From our Embassy JeweIy
Collection Sill
'plus tax
The Heeht co.-Foshion JewelT-AH 5 Stores
Navajo times., 1963-12-19
Unemployment Among American Indians

12O 900, slightly more than half
of whose members were employ
ed. Half of the employment, in
turn, was of temporary nature.
The rate of unemployment was
49 percent. This rate corroborates
the findings of earlier Bureau
studies of individual reservations,
which disclosed unemployment in
the range of 4O45 percent of a
labor force upwards of 100000
Unemployment among reserva-
tion Indians was reported to be
serious everywhere last winter.
In California the rate was 20 per-
cent, more than three times the
u. S. average. At the other ex-
treme, in our Anadarko area, COM
prising Kansas and part of okla
homa, unemployment was report
ed at II percent and in five other
Navajo times., 1963-12-19

areas it was higher than SO per-
cent. Among the principal reserva-
tions population of 1000 or morel
the lowest rate was IA percent, at
Rama. New Mexico: the highest
was IS percem, at Fort Berthold,
North Dakota.
1t is clear from the foregoing
that Fl percent high as this rate
is in comparison with the u. S.
average--understates the degree
of unemployment on the Indian
reservations. 1t is plain, too, that
the more embracing definition of
the labor force that the Bureau
and the House Committee have
found it necessary to use yields
levels and rates of unemployment
that must include some jobless
perS sons who would n not accept
regular employment if it became
available on the reservation. We
are confident. however, in light
of our experience with industrial
and public works employment on
the reservations that the over
state ment of unemployment is
Cont inued on page IL }
Navajo times., 1963-12-19

sons at work there are II others
who are unsuccessfully seeking
work. This is a rate three to four
times as high as the national
average has run during a period
of admittedly unsatisfactory econ
omic activity. On the Indian reser-
vationss however, even this rate
is an understatement. For, located
in areas of very limited employ
ment opportunities. Indians badly
needing work commonly lack the
social mobility to seek it at a
distance and may even not know
how to seek ii nearby. If jobs are
brought to the reservation, on the
other hand. job-seeking becomes
active. This is true when factories
are opened nearby and our en-
plOyment assistance program is
used to recruit workers: it is also
true when public works funds are
made available to relieve mem-
plOymenf on the reservations. The
typical response is galvanic: work
ers line up at the employment
window, often bringing their tools
for work in the woods. Under
ordinary circumstances, however,
the typical reservation Indian, a.
ware of the shortage of job op-
portunitieS within reasonable dis
tance of his home and unused to
non-Indian job-hlnting methods.
is unlikely to seek work else
where. Those who do Sour pro-
gram to assist them in such ef-
forts will be described shortly
commonly depart from the reser-
walton and may soon be no longer
part of the population and labor
force we are now examining.
TRUE UNEMPLOYMENT
RATE 40 PERCENT AND
HIGHER
Because it would be un-
realistic to measure the need for
employment on the reservations
by the number of Indians actively
seeking work without success, the
Bureau has used another definition
of unemployment. Our estimates of
unemployment are based on labor
force estimate that inclr5as all
Indians of working age who are
neither unemplOyable because of
physical or mental handicaps nor
unavailable for employment be-
cause of enr rollment in school,
of family responsibilities. or of
early retirement. This is the
definition of the reservation labor
force also used implicitly by the
House Interior Committee in the
QUESTIONABLE sent to all reserva-
tions last November. The result
ing survey, the first to be made
simultaneously of allreservations,
indicated labor force of about
Navajo times., 1963-12-19

regular hour. Wage work, when
available. is accepted as means
of providing for the family's i'm
mediate needs, not as the basis of
a family plan for the future. If
income from range leases covers
family needs, many Indians feel
no incentive to expand it through
employment.
Fourth, the educ alton and train
ing of Indians on the reservations
lag seriously behind averages for
Indians. Years of schooling
among Indians over IS average
only about half those for white
Americans. Among young adults,
significantly. the gap is only one
third. 8 years as against IL. The
basic requirement for success in
the economic world, English
language capability, is lacked by
many. Progress is evident, but is
being achieved slowly.
The situation On most reSerVa-
tions, accordingly, is one of
seriously inadequate job opportun-
tiles at or near home, of made
quate education and training for
jobs that may become available,
of ignorance of the surrounding
culture and of how to make ones
way even in the nearby outside
world. With respect to this third.
very pervasive factors Professor
william Gombergs of the Wharton
School, recently had this to. say
about the situation he found on the
Pyramid Lake Reservation in
Nevada:
The standard procedures for
job-seehng. so well-non to most
non-Indians. are not known by most
people at Pyramid Lake. Applica-
tion forms bewilder them: asking
former employers for references
embarrasseS them: the hustle of
the Employment Office frightens
them.
He added that:
Those who participated in the
tests were glad the results would
be kept on file at the Reno En-
ployment Office. 1t was obvious
they had been reluctant to visit
the office in the past.
These observations are acknoW-
ledged by those familiar with the
reservations as being very broad
ly applicable.
UNEMPLOYMENT HIGH EVEN
UNDER STANDARD
DEFINITION
Under such circumstances, it
is unavoidable that unemployment
should be high on the reservations.
The regular monthly and quarterly
unemployment reports do not pro-
vide information on the reServa-
tions as such, bun special Cen
sus monograph based on 1860 data
is Illuminating. The data, made
available prior to public alton OF
the monograph this fall, disclose
an overall unemployment rate of
IS percent among all Indians in
April 1860. The u. S. average dur
ing the same week was ST. per
cent. Analysis of differences be-
tween AZ Indian areas and other
parts of the country supports an
estimate of Il percent for the
reservation population, balanced
bv one of 7 percent unemployment
among the non-reservation popula-
tiOn.
An unemployment rate of p
percent means, under the standard
definition. that for every 79 per-
Navajo times., 1963-12-19

Ed Note: "A statement, by the
Bureau of Indian Affairs, U. S.
Department of the INFERIOR sub
mitted to the Subc commiuee on
Employment E and Manpower of the
Commi1ee on Labor and Public
Welfare, United States Senate
September 10, 1868.
In discussing unemployment of
American Indians, we may beginby
distinguishing between two groups
first, those Indians who COM
prise the Bureau S service popula-
tion and, second. all others. The
service population. almost all
members of which live on or
adjacem to reservations, is esti-
mated al $4,000. The non-reser-
walton population is perhaps half
this size. The 1860 decemial
census put the total Of American
Indians Including the Eshmos and
Aleuts of Alaska) at 552s 900. but
there has been some Increase in
the past 3 years.
The reservation population of
$4,000 is by no means uniform
in its economic and social char
acteristics. 1t is commonplace OBJ
servation that the Indians of no
two reservations are alike. What
they have in common. however, is
of great significance for anunder-
standing of unemployment among
them.
ECONOMIC AND SOCIAL
CHARACTERISTICS
First Of all, most Indian lands
are economically depressed areas
and yield incomes ranging between
one-quarter and one-third those of
non-Indian families of the same
region. Many reservations are
located in counties that also are
depressed, although not so badly.
These are lands to which the In
dianS were removed because non
Indians succeeded in getting the
more desirable lands formerly
occupied. Even during the early
decades of this century, the loss
of Indian lands continued, amount
ing to go percent between 1887
and 1884, when alienation was
arrested as a matter of national
policy. Of the 81 million acres
then remaining, As million acres
were suitable for grazing and only
4 million we're farm land. Even
full practical utilization of these
lands today would provide liveli-
hood for less than half the popula-
tion now residing on them.
Second, tribal ties are str rong
and the Indians emotional feeling
about their .ance stral land is deep
and compelling. It's possession
gives them a sense Of security
wholly unrelated to its present or
prospective economic value. This
psychological fact, which has its
counterpart in many non-lndian
depressed areas. helps explain
why a population double the size
that the land can support remains
on the reservations.
Third, Indian cultures are not
Job oriemed. Indians understand
running livestock, bun have never
had a tradition Of farming. much
less one of industrial or COM
mercial employment. Most Indian
children grow up infamilies where
their elders have never had regular
employment, have never thought in
terms of reporting for work each
morning or even of rising at a
Evening star., 1963-05-09
Dropping Of Teacher Loan
Credit Provision Studied

of part Of college loans fol
teachers.
Officials of the Office Of
Education feel. however. that
this is a key part of the loan
program and will fight to keer
1t. The subcommittee. headed
by Representative Green, Demo-
Evening star., 1963-05-09

conditions was based upon evi-
dence gathered by the land
agency. A month later, the
land agency replied and said
that the area qualified for
slum clearance based on plan
ming commission data.
Mr.. Dowdy said that each
agency was saying that it
didn't have the evidence to
prove blight conditions. but
claimed the other did.
Evening star., 1963-05-09

crat OF Oregon, is holding hear
ings on proposals to expand
! the five-year-old act.
Mrs. Green's subcommittee
has agreed to increase the
amount of Federal money
available for loans to students
from 500 million a year to $l35
million, but a bill instroduced
by Mrs. Green eliminates the
forgiveness feature for teacher
loans.
Under the existing legis-
lation, students who go into
teaching in public elementary
and high schools can have up
to half their college loans can
celled.
The administration not only
wants the cancellation feature
retained but wants 1t extended
to students who teach in pri-
vate schools and colleges.
Officials of the Office of
Education believe the cancel
lation provision has been of
great help in attracting stu
dents into the teaching field.
Some repayment experience
is limited because of the new
ness Of the program, officials
said it is not possible to de-
termine exactly how much of
the Federal money is loaned to
students who will go into
teaching.
Figures as Of last June
showed 1920 million loaned and
$50 million repaid. The e
amount Cancelled for teaching
services was $1.3 million.
Samuel Halperin, legislative
assistant in the Office of Edu-
cation, said figures show that
about half the students repay
ing loans so far have had par
tial cancellations for teaching
services.
Mrs. Green has not indicated
she is dead set against the
teacher cancellation provision
but she questioned yesterday
whether there is more justi-
fication for forgiving teacher
loans" than those for engi-
neers, social workers or others.
A witness before the COM
mittee, Clinton M. Fair, rep
resenting the AFL-CIO, said
the provision should be re-
tanned because teachers are
low-paid and the cancellation
provision is an added financial
inducement to attract people
into the profession.
"One of my concerns as a
former teacher" said Mrs.
Green us the tendency to give
little handouts (to teachers) to
salve our consciences because
we underpay them. AS long as
we do that. they will never
reach the salaries they de-
serve"
The National Education AS
sociation urged that the can
collation. provision be retained
and expanded.
A spokesman for NEA also
said yesterday the association
may not support a college con-
Struction bill approved Monday
be the Green subcommittee un-
less Federal assistance also is
provided for elementary and
high schools.
NEA helped torpedo a higher
education construction bill last
year and was accused yester-
day by a subcommittee men,
Der, Representative Gibbons.
Democrat of Florida, of having
blood on its hands"
Evening star., 1963-05-09
BY PAUL HOPE
Star staff Writer

A House Education and La
Dor subcommittee is consider
ing eliminating a provision of
the National Defense Education
Act which permits cancellation
Evening star., 1963-05-09
Hearing on Budget

Proposed legislation for {
separate budget for District O
Columbia schools will be dis
cussed at a pubic hearing BY
a subcommittee of the District
Republican Committee at {
pm. May 20, in the board room
on the fifth floor of the Dis
trict Building, Fourteenth anc
E streets NV, Gilbert Hahn
jr., chairman of the subcom-
mittee. has announced.
has announced.
Evening star., 1963-05-09
Plaza Renewal
Raises Query
0fCO||usion
BY LEE FLOR
Star staff Writer

A question of collusion be-
tween private real estate mer
and public officials over dis.
position of land in a FoggS
; Bottom urban renewal area
was raised in congressional
hearings today.
Members Of a House District
subcommittee investigating ur-
ban renewal questioned the
formation of Columbia Plaza
Corp. and its selection to re-
ceive S. million worth Of land
Representative Whitener
Democrat of North Carolina
said there was q possibility that
somewhere along the line some-
one was gaining by aquiring
the real estate.
Representative Sisk, Demo-
crat Of California, said "it's
certainly open to the possibility
Of collusion.
Stock Books Lost
The corporation has told
staff members of the Subcom-
mittee that it has lost its stock
books, and cannot find them
Mr.. Sisk said.
Il would think stock books
were pretty important. Perhaps
there was a fire--sometimes a
fire is pretty good at an OPP
perfume time" Mr.. Sisk said.
The question of who owned
the stock in the corporation
came up after Hayden CARRIER
counsel for the House District
Committee. produced a memo
randum to show that a sep
arate firm offered a higher
price for land in the Columbia
Plaza urban renewal project.
The real estate man was
turned down, even though he
offered the higher price, be-
cause the Columbia Plaza Corp
included individuals who had
owned a majority of the land
in the project.
PriOrities Set Up
John r. Searles, the execu-
tive director Of the Redevelop-
ment Land Agency at that time,
notified the real estate man
that 1t was the policy of the
land agency to give priorities
to former occupants of urban
renewal areas, as required by
the Federal legislation.
Mr.. Whitener said that the
two individuals who previously
had owned a majority of the
area, D. F. Antonelli and King
dom Gould, only owned a total
OF rs per cent in the new cor
poration. The stock in the
Columbia Plaza Corp is scat
tered among several people
including representatives of
SfSMnon & Luchs, a WASH
ington real estate firm with a
reputation for honesty and in
tegrity.
Mr.. Sisk asked Engineer
Commissioner Frederick j,
Clarke if he didn't agree that
poor judgment was used by re-
development and planning Of
ficials.
Near Cultural Center
Gen. Clarke replied: mo,
SIR" and went on to say that
the District Commissioners
would probably favor a similar
urban renewal project for the
Columbia Plaza area.
The project area is between
Twenty-first and Twenty-third
and E and G streets NV,
near the site for the proposed
National Cultural Center.
Representative Dowdy, DEM
ocrat Of Texas, said that the
National Capital Planning
Commission had to include
extra land in the urban re-
newal area to qualify it for
slum clearance.
Then he pointed out what
seemed TO him to be an incon-
sistency, uncovered by sub
committee staff members in
digging through land agency
records.
A letter from the planning
commission in July, 1859, said
] the justification to show slum
Evening star., 1963-05-09
HERE's WHY you SAVE
At ROBERT HALL

. We sell for Gosh onIyi
. There are no srsdi, shores,l
. We hove no credit lossssI
. You sovs bssov,s We ,ovsi
Evening star., 1963-05-09

Crisp Dacron polyester for durability
-. and rich wool worsted for
cooling lightness and handsome good
looksl Take your pick of trim-tailored
plain or pleated front in smart
new colors Sizes 20 to AZ.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1963-12-26
FAMOUS FABLES
BY E. E. EDGAR

INJURY: During a practice
Scrimmage, former Cleveland
Browns Coach Paul Brown
was watching a new quarter
back who was slow In catch
ing on. Time and again he got
the signals crossed.
Toward the end Of the ses-
sion, he called for a pass and
was thrown for a big loss. He
landed with a thump on his
backside.
Hes hurt" cried one Of
the bench warmers.
Probably a conclusion"
muttered Brown in disgust.
LIFE SPAN: Electrical
wizard Nikola Tesla was
convinced that a little whisky
every day would prolong his
life. He was often heard to
boast that because Of his daily
nip he would live to be $50.
With the advent Of prohibi-
ton, Tesla gave up drinking,
but with regret.
'fNow III be lucky" he told
a friend, eff / live to be $780,"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1963-12-26
TODAY
IHistory
ON THIS DATE

In 1776, the Battle of Trenton
was fought in the American
Revolutionary War. After
crossing the Delaware, Gen.
George WashingtOn's force of
1000 men defeated 1000 Hes
sian mercenaries who we're
surprised while carousing in
Christmas revelry.
In 1893, the first eulogy of a
President Of the United States
was delivered for George
Washington before both Hous-
es Of Congress by Henry
Light Horse Harry" Lee Of
Virginia.
In 1850, Mai. Robert Ander-
son abandoned Fort MouItrie
and occupied Fort Sumter,
but later was driven out by
Confederate troops during the
Civil War.
In 1882, an earthquake In
Northwestern China killed TO-.
900 persons.
In 1913, the rs, OO0ton Ger
man battleShip Scharnhorst
was sunk off North Cape,
Norway, during World War II.
In 1947, New York and New
Jersey we're blanketed with a
record 26-inch snowfall.