Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1962-02-18
Prune Trees, Limbs in Advance
Of Rise Of Sap; Undercut Helps
By WILBUR H. YOUNGMAN
Star Garden Editor

by WILBUR II. YOUNGMAN
Star Garden Editor
Pruning is an essential job
If the home grounds are to
be kept attractive, but more
especially if we are to keep
our trees in the best condition
possible. Low hanging tree limbs
cut off sunlight and thus re-
duce the vigor. If not actually
cause the death, of grass be-
meath. Judicious pruning should
strengthen the trees and thus
improve their resistance to wind
and snow damage.
Pruning should be done at the
proper season. For most kinds
of trees this is the late winter
or very early spring before the
sap begins to rise" A few, such
as the maple, birches. yellow
wood, and walnuts bleed freely.
Some gardeners prefer to prune
them in the late fall and seal
the wounds with a heavy layer
Of tree dressing. Others prefer to
prune in the summer when the
sap flow is at fairly low ebb.
This writer prefers the late fall
pruning. However. it is admitted
that this flow of sap is little
more than nuisance and sell
dom does irreparable damage
to the tree. Nevertheless the
wet wood can provide a ready
entrance for wood-rotting fungi
and all steps that can be taken
to prevent should be taken.
Use Sharp Tools
Pruning should be done with
sharp tools saw, Topping
shears, etc. Dull tools not only
take much more energy to use,
but they usually leave a rough
surface which is more difficult
to coat with a protective layer
Of tree dressing. Then, too, there
are those who believe that the
bark never fully seals over such
a surface. Good tools make the
job easier and better.
Whenever removing limbs
from a tree it is well to I'M
dercut several inches away from
the trunk before making the
severing cut flush with and
parallel to the trunk. In this
way the weight of the limb
does not tear the bark loose
from the trunk. On very large
limbs it is usually good practice
to make the primary cuts a foot
or more from the trunk and
to completely sever the limb,
leaving a stub; the final cuts
removing the stub. This is much
more work but will safeguard
the tree.
Don't Leave Sticks
Stubs are never desirable be-
cause they do not heal; they
leave an unsightly piece of wood
sticking out from the trunk,
and they offer an entry point
for wood-rotting fungi. Ger
tainly no careful pruner will
leave them except during the
summer when bleeding prevents
a final cut.
Shortening of one side of q
weak fork usually throws the
strength Of the tree into the
strength of the tree into the 9TH
er side and greatly reduces the
danger of splitting. The Short
ening need not be more than
one-fourth to one-third of the
branch. However, to increase
the strength of the fork the
one branch should not be short
ened if it is to grow vigorously.
The earlier this pruning can
be done in the life of the tree
the more likely it is to be
successful.
The sealing of all pruning cuts
with a tree dressing is most
important although those Of the
conifers (needle-bearing ever
greens) do not seem important
to the protection of the tree.
Apparently the sap of such trees
is not often attacked by the
Wood-rotting fungi.
Kinds of Dressing
The kind of tree dressing
to use may warrant a few Sug-
gestions. One that will not crack
or blister is most important.
Usually such materials have an
asphalt base. However, one may
use a mixture of Bordeaux