davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-07-19

two women in his set-up
carefully editing everything
that went out.
There's a difference in the
way a man and a woman de-
signs. Take a straplesSs dress.
BY a woman it's constructed
entirely differently. A man
designer is a much better
designer of mems clothes, /
think, than of women'S fash
ions. I believe you should see
the woman first and the dress
after. When dress and woman
blend successfully, a dress is
a hit"
BILL BLASS Of Maurice
Rentner-"Are men better
than women designers?
That's a controversial ques-
ton. I feel that men are
much more appreciative Of
women. I design for a variety
of women I know. Being a
bachelor it's easy.
women have made great
contributions to the world of
fashion. My word, look at
Chanel who is still a huge
success after all these years.
I'd prefer not to comment on
American women designers. ]
feel that a man is more de-
tached and less personal
about the subject Of design
ing clothes. What it amounts
to is knowing your customer.
I'D say that male or fe-
male, in the world of fashion
it takes a person who loves
clothes to know how to de-
sign them"
CELL CHAPMAN-"Nat-
urally, I've got to say that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-07-19

women are better designers
than men-I'm a woman. A
woman knows the figure Of
other women and in design
ing she gets the feeling Of
what she would like to see
worn. Some men have a fair
in fashion design. But always
it is wise to have a woman's
voice in the background edit
ing, supervising fittings and
really understanding clothes.
There shouldn't be any
conflict in the designing
world. Giving beauty to the
world in the form of fash
ion should not be a male VS..
female war. A woman can
be a prophetic designer
without distorting the lines
of the body. She can design
sexy clothes, show the COM
ing trend, produce provoca-
tive necklines, and still be
within the bounds Of good
taste.
Anything that goes too
far Is bad dress designing.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-07-19
Who's the Best Designer
A Mon or q Woman?

attributes In clothes. These
are the ones that never show
a bustline in clothes. But one
thing / do believe, and that is,
if men had more influence on
the women around them the
women would be better
dressed"
OLEG CASSINI-"When I
design I say to myself, If I
had an imaginary girl I liked,
this is how I would dress her.
The woman I design for is
a composite. She is the many
women I have known in all
walks of life. I try to remem-
Der each in some designing
way.
yes, I think a woman can
be an exciting designer.
Chanel is such a one. When
she started out in the early
20s she had an idea of how
she should dress. This idea
of "a la Garcon" caught on
and you had a fashion revolu-
ton.
Most designers today in
stead of creating clothes that
project their own point of
view prefer to go to ready
made sources like Paris and
readapt. This is not creating
fashion. I'd say that 10 per
cent of so-called designing on
Seventh avenue is out-and-
out piracy of other peoples
design. It's inexcusable.
"A woman should select
her designer like she selects
a doctor. A male designer is
more objective. Men think
of women while women think
Of themselves. A good de-
signer gives a woman a sense
Of security in the clothes she
selects.
Good fashion, well-worn,
lives poise. 1t transcends the
physical and enters into the
realm of mental well-being."
MOLLIE PARNIS-"There's
no question about it. Women
make better designers than
men. For one thing they I'M
derstand the anatomy of a
woman better. Unless you've
worn dresses you're apt to
miss out on some important
things that have to be built
in them.
Men make good stylists,
editors. and certainly have a
flair for fashion. But from
beginning to end a woman
understands a dress. A
woman designer insists that
a dress be pretty, comfort
able, and becoming.
Lets be honest, behind
every designer there's been
a woman. The great Dior had
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-07-19

puppet. He does not want to
hear complaints about how
uncomfortable she is, espe-
cially if he is paying the bills.
Women designers are shy
about taking their place in
the sun. Fashion is a good
profession for women. 1t is
glamorouS, glorified and dig
nified."
LUIS ESTEVEZ-"A male
designer does more justice to
women. He knows what he
likes and sometimes a woman
designer loses her perspec-
tive. Being too close to the
subject, women designers fire.
quently design in their own
image.
IT design for a woman who
likes to please a man. My
wife and 1 fight sometimes
about what she's going to
get. She has one favorite
daytime costume and one for
evening. If it weren't for me,
she'd never change her look.
"a man has to subtly as
sert his fashion thinking but
be careful. Women designers
design for themselves. A man
does an overall job of design
ing for women in general
Most husbands couldn't care
less about the way their wives
look. I'd venture to say that
80 per cent of the time if a
woman asked a man How do
l look and got an honest
answer. his instincts woulC
tell him never to allow hel
to go out looking ridiculous.
Instinctively, women put on
too much.
I believe the main fashion
trend settlers are men. They
are always the greatest. OF
course, there are exceptions.
Vionnet was such a one.
Chanel is another. What
women designers lack is
strength to put over what
they feel is truly chic.
Lets face it, some male
designers simply aren't in
terested in showing feminine
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-07-19

clothes. Norman Norell is
the only other American de-
signer so honored.
In Europe the reSurgence
on the fashion front of
Chanel has been phenomenal.
After years of So-called re-
tirement she has come back
into the fashion field with a
reSounding success.
The male VS.. female design
controversy has always been
discussed in fashion circles.
Each era being different,
designers have various ways
of expressing how they feel
on the subject of the de-
signing of clothes worn by
women.
Here are some rather out
spoken attitudes on their
part:
PAULINE TRIGERE IA
woman'S name on a dress
doesn't necessarily make it
good. No. l could never say
that women are better de-
signers than men. What l
can say is that the day will
come when women designers
will have more courage to
stand up for what they be-
leve. A much more feminine
approach to designing is
coming up. A real creator.
male or female, offers a Ger
tain direction.
I design for the woman
who has something on her
mind other than canasta-
women who understand that
a dress or a coat will make
them well-dressed and COM
Portable. I dress an active
woman, not necessarily a
golfer, for example, but a
woman who is intelligent
about clothes.
My clothes are designed
by me definitely with men in
mind. I do not feel that a
man wants a woman to look
ike she is dressed like a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-07-19

The true test Of a designer.
male or female, is whether
or not the public can read
their signature. II you really
understand a designers
clothes you don't have to ask
whose 1t is.
IT have an image in mind
when I design. 1t is not
mine. It is every lovely
American woman. This wom-
an is so many different
typeS-and I like them all"
ARNOLD SCAASI-"Yes.
I think men are better de-
signers than women because
they design for different
types of women for whom
they care. Women design for
themselves. Check on a
woman designer and you'll
find she either is or was her
own best model.
II don't feel that there
aren't great women designers.
There are. Valentino did a
type of thing, so did Vionnet,
and so does Trigere do a Won
derful type of fashion pro-
lection. But there are men
like Balenciaga, Norman
Norell and Charles James
who do equally well.
Women tend to design the
type of thing they'd like to
wear. Men are more objec-
tive. Men also change their
moods quickly in fashion de-
sign, depending on the wom-
en- in their lives. With wom-
en-. they always come first.
A man designer views a wom-
an as he'd like to see her."
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-07-19
FASHION NOTEBOOK
By ELEM
Star Fashion Writer

NEW YORK, July 49,
Designer Pauline Trigere is
the first living woman to be
named to the Fashion Hall
Of Fame. The top prize of
the American Fashion Critics
Award has previously been
given to the late Claire Nc
Cardell as a posthumous
honorary award.
Joining Pauline in the
Hall of Fame lineup is James
Galanos, the California de-
signer who prefers an inter-
national dateline on his
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-07-19

This is on old fashioned chestnut
being r6osted once oeoin: Are men
better designers for women or ore
women bette. equipped to design
for other women?)
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-09-28
Satellite Sends Photo
From 10000 Miles

interpret the picture in terms
Of cloud cover over the earth
at the time. Weather data for
the North Pacific indicated an
overcast area around Hawaii.
This conceded with a distinct
dark spot on the TV picture.
No data for the South Pacific
was available, but scientists
specialized that an extremely
bright area south of Hawaii
might have been a reflection
of the sun from the waters of
the Pacific. If so. the photo
graph depicts a scene that is
unique in the solar system if
not in the universe-sunlight
on water.
Explorer VI. more deliberately
Instrumental for radiation de-
lection than any satellite
launched to date by the United
States, also gave scientists a
completely new look at the Van
Allen belt.
Instead of the belts being
two more or less distinct
"doughnuts" of trapped radia-
ton around the earth. early re-
suits of Explorer VI expert
ments indicate that it may be
a single zone or region with
See SATELLITE, Page At
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-09-28
Celebrations Void
Red Quemoy Fire

TOKYO, Sept. % (AP).-
Communist China announced
today that it will withhold ar
tillery fire against Quemoy and
other offshore islands Septem-
Der 20 and october l because of
celebrations marking the 10th
anniversary of the Red victory
on the China mainland.
The Communists for months
have been bombarding the is
lands only on odd-numbered
days of the month. withholding
fire on even-numbered days.
Red Marshal Ho Lung. mean
while, said it was still Commu-
mist China's sacred duty" to
occupy FormoSa and the off,
shore islands. He is chairman
of Communist China's National
Defense Council.
Communists fired 1872 rounds
at the Quemoy Islands yester-
day, an odd-numbered Sunday,
then lapsed today into even
numbered day silence.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-09-28
BY WILLIAM HINES
Star Science Writer

A crude television picture
from outer space and a new
insight into the mysterious Van
Allen radiation belt are the
first scientific fruit of Amer
ica's paddlewheel satellite Ex-
plorer vi.
The civilian Space Admins
tration today made public a
photograph made from video
signals received from the satel-
lite August IA by a ground
tracking station in Hawaii.
The signals. transmitted over
a 4O-minute period while the
142-pound satellite was 10000
miles above the earth. recorded
Explorers crude impression of
the Pacific Ocean area CEN
tered on Hawaii.
Though crude compared to
many pictures taken by cam
eras recovered from missile
nose cones at attitudes up to
700 miles, this was far and
away the remotest picture ever
made of the earth.
Scientists of the Space Tech
nology Laboratories at Ingle-
wood, Calf. who devised the
camera system, attempted to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-09-28
TX for Busy Surgeons:
Don't Spare the Soap

of hospitals with negligence,
but added that he was speak
ing Of a general, overall hos
pital problem.
Aside from certain Govern
ment research institutions, only
the Veterans Administration
hospitals built recently are
constructed with safety from
side infection in mind because
their building budgets aren't
cut, DR.. Walter said. Private
hospitals, he noted, generally
run into financial woes during
construction and certain safety
factors are slashed.
He called for a return to the
old standards of sterileness in
floors, bedding, ventilation,
hand cleaning and laundry. For
a while. he said. modern anti
biotics were effective against
bacteria in hospitals but in re-
cent years antibiotic- resistant
strains have appeared.
Visitors in hospitals are a
problem, DR.. Reed noted. They
come in to see sick friends
coughing cold germs in front
of them, leaving cigarette butts
around and even splitting in the
corridors.
This wouldn't have been toll
Grated 20 years ago." he said.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-09-28

President Eisenhower today
called for the establishment Of
a billion dollar international
Development Association to ex-
tend easy payment loans to
underdeveloped nations.
The association would be a
subsidiary of the World Bank.
Mr.. Eisenhower made his
suggestion in a brief address
of welcome to the governing
boards of the bank and the In
ternational Monetary Func
opening their annual meeting
here. He told the finance min
listers of So nations:
I'm our view, no other
mechanism can perform this
task for the free world as well
as the International Develop
ment Association"
Would Allow soft" Loans
The United States governor
of the bank and fund. Secre-
tary Of the Treasury Anderson,
has formally proposed creating
the association, a global lend
ing institution. 1t would help
shift part of the increasing
burden of foreign aid to Euro
pean and other countries.
Mr.. Eisenhower told the dele
gates the United States believes
the new agency should be
closely integrated with thu
World Bank-which makes only
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-09-28
BY CHARLES G. BROOKS
Star stan Writer

ATLANTIC CITY, N. j., Sept.
28.-Medical science has grown
| up so fast that many doctors
have forgotten some of the fuD
damentals of cleanliness dating
back to 1882, a leading surgeon
says.
In fact, we're these physicians
to review lessons learned even
during the 1905 their patients
would be much better off, DR..
Carl w. Walter, associate pro-
fessor of surgery at Harvard
Medical School, declared yes
lterday.
DR.. Walter moderated a panel
on the control of infection in
hospitals which opened the
Nations largest annual meeting
devoted to surgery. Some 10000
surgeons and visitors are at
tending the five-day meeting OF
the American College Of Sur
Igeons here.
DR.. Walter declared that
some hospitals have resorted tc
the use of polaroid cameras tt
take candid shots of mistake:
in sterile procedures by doc
tors. He said he was no
charging any particular groul
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-09-28
New Agency Proposed
To Ease Foreign Looms

safe and conservative loans and
is unable to provide soft loans
to countries needing them.
Soft loans provide for easy
payments and are repayable, at
least in part. in the currency
of the borrower.
Making the association an
affiliate of the World Bank. Mr.
Eisenhower said, would give as
Surance of a wise expenditure
of its funds and close co-ordi-
nation with other international
economic agencies.
The President said he is
aware that developments in the
American economy can have
significant effects on the we'll
being Of the rest of the world.
Happily" he went on, "our
economy today, despite the in
creasingly heavy impact of the
interruption in steel produc-
ton, is in healthy condition.
Cites Recession Recovery
Mr.. Eisenhower cited the re-
covery of the United States
from it's 1858 recession and It's
movement into what he called
"a new period Of orderly
and balanced growth" Stimuli
taneously, he said, a number
of the European economies
have shown remarkable re-
covery.
Later, in a report to the
See BANK, Page Al
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-09-28

pears to be melting in a num-
Der Of ways. He cited the APP
parently sincere desire of the
Soviets to cooperate with the
West in the peaceful develop
ment Of atomic energy.
The President opened his
discussion of Mr.. Khrushchev's
visit by thanking the American
people for the courteous treat
ment accorded the Soviet
leader.
Family Scene" Described
Describing the meeting of
Premier Khrushchev with the
Eisenhower grandchildren at
his Gettysburg farm. the Presi-
dent said it was a heart
warming family scene" of the
sort that all Americans would
enjoy.
He seemed particularly i'm
pressed by Mr.. Khrushchev S
willingness to compromise with
the tenets Of MarXism to i'm
prove the lot of the Soviet peo-
pie. The Kremlin chief as
serted there is greater use of
the incentive system" to spur
individual effort in Russia than
there is under American capt.
talism. the President said.
While Mr.. Khrushchev could
defend his views stubbornly he
also was capable of easy, af-
fable discussion" of East-West
issues, the President said.
Mr.. Khrushchev, who will
fly to Peiping tomorrow TO
See KHRUSHCHEV, Page AS
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-09-28
Southeast
Is Menuced
ByHurricone

MIAMI. Fla. Sept. % (AP)
Hurricane Oracle whirled
ominously in toward the main
land today and the Miami
Weather Bureau ordered a
hurricane watch for coastal
areas from Savannah. Ga.
northward to Wilmington. N. c.
Gale warnings were issued
from Daytona Beach, Fla,
north along the coast to More
head City. N. c.. as Gracie's
outer winds moved within rs
miles of shore. The hurricane
packs a 90-mile-an-hour punch
around the center.
Winds will increase grad
ually and are expected to
reach gale force tonight from
the Upper Florida coast to
North Carolina. Seas will
roughen and tides should reach
one to two feet above normal
in some places tonight.
Small craft along the North
east Florida coast and north
ward to Morehead City. N. c.,
were advised to remain in port.
At IL am. EST the hurricane
was located by reconnaissance
aircraft and conferred 280 miles
east of Daytona Beach. Fla.
and $40 miles southeast of
Charleston, S. C. She was NOV
ing toward the west northwest
at about 6 miles an hour.
Winds Of 80 miles an hour
howled around the eye of the
hurricane. Winds of hurricane
force spread out rs miles to the
northwest of the center-toward
the mainland, and so miles in
other directions.
There were winds of 40 miles
an hour or higher over an area
200 miles in the northern semi
circle Of the storm and 125
miles to the south of the eye.
Since last Friday. Oracle has
loitered in the Atlantic east of
Cape Canaveral.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-09-28

by and permit the economy
of the Nation to suffer with its
inevitable injuries to ALL"
However, the President de-
clined to say whether he would
invoke the Taft-Hartley Law
with it's court injunction pro-
vision for sending the steel
workers back to their jobs for
at least an 80-day cooling of
period.
At the outset of the news
conference, Mr.. Eisenhower in
dictated that he expected most
of the questions to deal with
his talks over the week end with
Soviet Premier Khrushchev.
HOarse From Cold
He added that he first want
ed to say something about a
matter of great importance on
the domestic scene. Then, his
voice hoarse from a cold. Mr..
Eisenhower read the following
prepared statement:
Il have this to say to you to-
day on the steel strike. / am
not going to try to assess any
blame, but I am getting sick
and tired of the apparent i'm
pasSe in the settlement Of this
matter-and so are the Amer
lean people. Free collective
bargaining - the logical re-
course of a free people in set
ting industrial disputes-has
apparently broken down.
THE long delay in coming
to a reasonable agreement has
already had a noticeable effect
on our economy. Now, with ne
gotiationS abandoned, the
prospects become serious for
every individual in the Nation
This morning l shall not
discuss specific governmental
action but I tell you this:
so far as governmental
action can be brought to beal
on this matter, am not going
to permit the economy of the
Nation to suffer with its in
evitable injuries to all. am
not going to permit American
workers to remain unnecessar-
lily unemployed. There are
100000 steel workers out OF
jobs. There are 100000 other
workers in industry affected by
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-09-28
Barriers to Summit Par|ey
Eased> President Indicates
Berlin Time
Limit Ban
Agreed On
BY GARRETT d. HORNER
Star stan Writer


President Eisenhower today
announced understandings with
Soviet Premier Khrushchev that
appeared to meet the condi-
ton the President had set for
q summit conference.
Mr.. Eisenhower told a news
conference that:
l. He and Mr.. Khrushchev
agreed that there could be no
fixed time limit" on new nego-
tiations over Berlin-thus re-
moving what the United States
had considered a Soviet threat
on that issue.
2. Progress is being made on
the Berlin question as evidenced
by the fact that negotiations on
Berlin are to be re-opened with
q view to achieving a solution
which would be in accordance
with the interests Of all con-
cerned."
Many Objections Removed
Removal of the Soviet threat
to Allied rights in West Berlin
and some evidence of progress
had been the Presidents prior
conditions for going to a sum-
nit meeting.
When asked specifically if
his conditions for going to the
summit had been met in his
, Camp David talks with Mr.
Khrushchev, the President said
only that as far as he PERSONAL
ly is concerned the discussions
removed many objections" he
had held.
1t appeared. however, that
the only remaining action re-
quired to clear the way for an
early summit conference ap-
peared to be agreement Of
Great Britain and France. The
British are keen for a top level
four-power meeting. French
President De Gaulle has been
more reluctant.
Won't Guess on Summit
Mr.. Eisenhower said he could
not guess when a summit
Injecting might be held because
he first would have to report
to his interested associates"
and seek their reactions
The President gave a cau-
tious appraisal of the results
of his 81 hours of talks with
the Soviet Premier Friday
evening, Saturday and Sunday
at the presidential retreat.
He would not go so far as to
say in so many words that
there had been any melting Of
the ice in Soviet-American re-
lations. as he had hoped there
would be when he invited Mr..
Khrushchev to this country.
He told a questioner that the
most that could be done was
Just beginning.
He also carefully refrained
from saying he was sure that
Mr.. Khrushchev had got a
better understanding of Amer
Iica-one Of the Presidents
prime aims of the Soviet lead
er'S visit.
He said that "if" there is a
better understanding by Mr..
Khrushchev of the American
people and their desire for
peace. then the credit is due to
the people themselves.
The President and Mr..
Khrushchev spent most of their
time together talking about
See EISENHOWER, Page AS
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-09-28
Delayed 81 Years

TOKYO, Sept. % (AP).-It
has taken some time, but recog-
milton is in store for the 1900
japanese laborers who helped
build the mountainous highway
to Baguio City in the Philip
pines. The Philippine Society
of Japan will put up a memorial
tablet by the side of the road,
built in 1904.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-09-28
JOKE ANSWERED
BY FATAL SHOT

MEXICO CRY (AP).-
Fernando Garcia, a truck
driver, pulled a toy pistol
and pointed it at another
truck driver as a joke.
The second driver didn't
know 1t was a joke. He
pulled a real pistol and
shot Mr.. Garcia fatally.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-09-28
FOOD EDITORS
START MEETING

TRENcHERMEN TAKE NOTICE,
soys Stor Food Editor Violet Foulk-
ner, in the first Of her reports from
the 18th onnuol newspaper food sdi-
tors confenee in Chicago. Three rec.
ipes ore reody to 90 in todoy's
column on Poee 30.
THE OLD STANDBY, "GuIIiver's
Trovels." oIwoys gets attention when
collectors Of greet books sother,
according TO the column, "GoId in
Your Attic" First-issue copies ore
worth os much os $1,000. Turn to.
doy to Pose BIZ.