davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1959-11-19

try was going through Q de-.
preston the movies were pre-
Uding contrast with opulent
fashions.
Infthose days. Miss Head
reminisced, the At-home look,
was not Q bathrobe-it was Q
hostess gown over pajamas.
Gloria Swanson, allergic to
terrycloth. ran down the hall
Of a cold.water fat in one
picture wearing Q white er-
mine bathrobe. Clara Bow
played tennis in high heels,
and nobody, said Edith Head,
ever wrote a nasty letter like
they do today II something
on the screen isn't truly
realistic.
I'VE had a lot OF fun in
those days" she admitted.
What were some Of the
Looks that Hollywood gave to
the fashion world?
The still going strong
slouch hat and trench coat Of
Garbo.
The beaded sheathS Of
Marlene Dietrich and her op-
ulent cocoon evening wraps
were trademarks.
The Clara Bow look called
for lots Of red hair, really
long sweaters, and 1t became
the symbol Of the flapper,"
said Miss Head.
Even Paris, back in the sos,
rave Hollywood public ac-
knowledgment for q fashion
look. lie Look Mae West"
with the boaS, diamond neck.
laces and the hour-glaSS fig.
ure was widely copied.
Out Of Hollywood came the
dinner suit and the theater
ensemble.
Rosalind Russell was well
prepared to play Auntie'
Name. She was wearing East
Indian tunics, glittering cum.
merbundS, and smoking with
q long cigarette holder back
In the sos.
Coat Dress
Kay Francis launched the
coat dress in q beaded wool.
Crushed belts enjoyed o
vogue then because Of her,
rs did black fox boas which
she wore so well.
Constance Bennett was
synonymous with sensational
cocktail pajamas. The printed
satin pajamas were teamed
with a sleeveless coat for the
elegant hostess look.
Norma Shearer was the
flrst to wear suede done in
a cape ensemble for the
Evening star., 1959-11-19
FASHION ~r
NOTEBOOK
Remember
Hollywood
Look
BY ELEM
star FsShisn Editor

Los ANGELES, Calf
This" said Edith Head
who states she was, is, and
always viii be a screen de-
Signer, "iS early clothes
horse" as she did the COM
mentary for one Of the most
unusual fashion shows we've
ever seen.
The Los Angles Fashion
Group honored the visiting
fashion editors covering the
California market with q
special luncheon at The
Beverly Hilton where all the
showings have been held.
In Early SOS
The fashion show featured
20 actual designs created for
Greto Carlo, Norma Shearer,
Marlene Dietrich, Joan Craw.
ford, Carole Lombard, Kay
Francis, Clara Bow, Rosa
lind Russell, Janet Gaynor,
Gloria Swanson, Mae West
and Jean Harlow during the
early SOS.
Those dynamic danes who
wore these clothes were re-
sponsible for creating that
Hollywood Look" Edith
Head noted.
The clothes by Howard
Greer, Travis Banton, and
the great Adrian who died
Just recently caused q tre-
mendous impact on the pub.
lie.
They pioneered q whole
new area Of design in CLAM
ourous at-home clothes, In
daShing casual clothes, and
fabulous evening dresses.
There were no budgets to
worry about in those days Of
the sos.
In q period when the coun-
Evening star., 1959-11-19
Mrs. Flemming Talks,
But Not on Cranberries

Mrs. Arthur 8. FIemming
yesterday discussed her hus-
bands job as Secretary Of
Health, Education and We'll
fare. ..
But she would not discuss
cranberries.
I'm strictly of cranber-
ries," she told a reporter. 81
have no comment"
Mrs. Flemming. who spoke
at a luncheon meeting of the
Ki-Wives Of Bethesda, did go
30 far as to deny that she
ever said she would serve the
berries at her Thanksgiving
table.
She was "misquoted" in
newspaper articles emanating
from California, she said.
Reporters wouldn't be here
to cover my talk today II not
for cranberries," she charged.
During her talk at the Ken
Evening star., 1959-11-19

entitled Arranging African
vielets far Home Deeora-
ton"
The lecture Ia scheduled
fer tomorrewsat l:So pm.
at the Camp I'M Methodist
Church In Harpers Ferry.
Evening star., 1959-11-19

be the hithiEht at Q meet
ing Of the women's Club Of
Harpers Ferry, W. VI.
Mrs. etueblng's lecture
teur has taken her through.
cut the United States. She
u also the auther Of Q book
Evening star., 1959-11-19

screen. Before that, said Miss
Head. suede was only for
Tom Nix and cowboys"
Joan Crawford's big wide
shouldered suits created BY
Adrian spearheaded the fash
ion movement for football"
shoulders.
Katherine Hepburn was an
other fashion pace.setter who
carried her clothes beauti.
fully.
Evening star., 1959-11-19

ulation Of plans for q new
Government department that
would include the fields Of
health, education and well
fare. I'll
Originally HEW was to be
called the Department Of
Welfare" she said. But that
name had an unpleasant
connotation as far as the
Republican Party is con-
cerned," Mrs. Flemming said.
Evening star., 1959-11-19
To Lecture
On M0donnds

Legends ef Madonnas" -
told through the arrange
msnts Of flowers. fruits and
figurines By Mrs. Emily
stuebing Of Pittsburgh win
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1959-10-25

DecoFote your dTeon1 rooms UeFV'es'0OUS
OPEN STOCK pieces. Choose from six different tobles
Plastic tops. Yes, you bring happiness into your
your purchase from CURTIS Bros!
Evening star., 1959-11-29

tribunals. A lord Of appeal in
ordinary receives $1,000 year
more than a judge or a lord
justice. The latter receives the
same salary as a Judge of first
instance. 1t is said, I believe with
truth, that when the modern
Court of Appeal was established
in 1875, the first members we're
asked if they would prefer an ad-
ditional 1000 year or the honor
of being appointed privy coun-
cillors, and thus being entitled to
the prefix right honorable. To
the regret of their successors in
these hard times, they chose the
honor, and so still receive the
same salary as they did before
they were promoted.
1 think it safe to say that
seldom if ever has there been a
time when in England and Scot
land politics have had less to do
with judicial appointments than
the present.
During the IL years was Chief
Justice, only one member of Par
lament was made a judge, and
he has proved to be one of the
best of a strong team. One for
mer attorney general was ap-
pointed to the Court of Appeal
and has now become a lord of
appeal in the House of Lords, as
has one lord advocate, who Is the
Evening star., 1959-11-29
Continued from Page c.

SOhbLluCu 1TOm rage C-i
Chinese incursions into territory
claimed by India.
Besides defending his policies
vigorously, Mr.. Nehru also backed
Mr.. KriShna Menon completely.
He reiterated his conviction that
India must avoid alliances or en-
tanglements with either East or
West. And he spoke with con-
siderable warmth on the necessity
OF maintaining a calm, unpro-
vocative attitude in dealing with
the Chinese. But on the matter
OF defending India's territorial in
tegrity, he was blunt and un-
compromising. The borders, he
assured Parliament, would be de-
Tended.
Emphasizing his determination,
he declared that India would pro-
tect not only her own borders but
would unqualif1edly defend neigh
boring independent Nepal and the
autonomous states of Bhutan and
Sikkim. Il know very we'll what
this involves" Mr.. Nehru re-
marked, ''it is a very grave
responsibility"
War with China, the Prime
Minister observed, would be "a
struggle that would shake all Asia
and shake the world" India would
be united as "a nation in arms"
if war comes, he declared. But
again he cautioned against Saber-
rattling. I'VE must not let our
selves be swept away by passion"
he warned.
Evening star., 1959-11-29

Lord Goddord, former Lord Chief JUS
tice Of EnsIond, spoke last week to the
American Bor Associations National
Conference on Judicial Selection and
Court Administration in ChieogO on the
selecting Of judges in England In the
course Of his address, he goVe some OBJ
servotions on politics and on the per-
sonoI qualifications Of Judges. These
ore excetpts from thot section:
The qualities to be looked for in
a judge or in a person to be ap-
pointed as one are first that he
should be a lawyer of reasonable
capacity. A judge Of first instance
need not necessarily be a consum-
mate lawyer. He should be man
of even temper and one who can
be trusted to display and continue
to display courtesy to the litigantS
and bar; in.short, if I may use
much abused expression, he should
be a gentleman.
A sense 'of humor is always an
asset, but, constant joker is
anathema.
Another quality devoutly to be
wished for is the ability to keep
reasonably silent while trying a
case. A garrulous judge is a mis-
fortune; he maddenS the bar and
slows up proceedings, but, un-
happily, it does happen that tao
turn barrister becomes surpris-
ingly talkative once he is seated on
the bench.
An obstacle to promotion to
judgeship is being identified with
some particular movement or
school of thought which may bear
on the administration particularly
of the criminal law; the public ex-
preston of what some would call
prejudices, are best avoided by
those who desire to become judges.
One quality which will doubtless
weigh strongly in favor with those
whose duty is to choose is an
ability to make up ones mind and
to do so expeditiouSly. In the past
with us and no doubt with you,
the great advocates have seldom
sought the bench because of the
great financial sacrifice it so often
involved.
Ruthless taxation has no doubt
lessened the gap between the fees
which some can earn, or rather
keep out of what they have
earned, and judicial salaries, but,
to some extent it still exists, soft
ened though by the prospect of a
pension, but it is also true that the
great advocates do not always
make good judges.
Promotion to the Court of Ap-
peal and to the position of lord
OF appeal in ordinary rests with
the Prime Minister, though as 1
have said he always conSults the
Lord Chancellor. Usually for
these positions judges who have
shown marked ability are chosen
though occasionally exceptionally
outstanding members of the bar
have been appointed to those high
Evening star., 1959-11-29
Qualifications of a Good Judqe

chief law officer in Scotland.
This is no doubt largely due to
the fact that far fewer lawyers
are seeking membership of Parlia-
ment; under modern conditions
the strain is too great.
Some 10 years ago Lord Her
schell, a Liberal Lord Chancellor,
gave this advice to the younger
members of the bar: "AS soon as
you are making 1000 pounds a
year"-in those days the equiva-
lent of about 5000 pounds at the
present day-"take silk and go
into Parliament"
Very few are able to follow that
advice nowadays and, in my hum
BILE opinion, it is Parliament's loss.
Let me be frank and say that
not so many years ago things were
very different and too often men
of inferior legal ability were ap-
pointed as a reward for political
service. At one stage of his ex-
ceptionally long tenure of the
chancellorship, it was thought
that Lord Halsbury was far too
apt to appoint men whose only
claim seemed to be faithful party
service in the House of Commons.
1t is said that once in conversa-
ton with lord justice renowned
for his cauStic wit this chancellor
remarked, Il suppose x was my
worst appointment" Possibly"
was the reply, but there are
others whose claims should not be
overlooked"
Another critic expressed sur
prise that Lord Halsbury recon-
mended Lord Lindley to be master
of the rolls for, said he, 'Lindley
has nothing to recommend him
except merritt"
In the 18th century and the
early days of the 10Th century,
it would indeed have caused sur
prise and perhaps CONSERVATION
had a man been raised to the
bench whose political views were
not in accord with the govern
ment of the day. The all per-
vading impact of politics on ap-
pointments in those days may be
illustrated by a passage in one of
Prof. Dicey's books, an author as
well known on this side of the
Atlantic as on ours, when he says
that "the greatest service that
minument Of incapacity and job
berry, the Duke of Newcastle, so
long Prime Minister to George II,
ever did was to persuade the King
not to appoint Sir William
Blackstone regius professor of civil
law at oxford because he was not
sure of his politics." Had he
been appointed to that chair, he
would have been concerned only
with the study and teaching of
the Roman law and so might never
have written those commentaries
on the laws of England which, for
the first time, enabled the COM
mon law to be studied scien-
tiflcally both in your country and
mine.
Evening star., 1959-11-29
THE FOREIGN SCENE

could hardly be called a popularity
contest.
Last week there were three new
indications that Uncle Sam is not
a hero to everyone, even in nations
allied and associated with him.
In Japan on Friday, 371 persons
were injured in an anti-United
States riot that def1ed police in
Tokyo for several hours. The
rioters, led by the Communist and
Socialist parties and the power
full General Council of Trade
Unions, were protesting the
planned revision of the Japanese
United States security treaty.
In Panama, agitation for Pan
amanian sovereignty over the
United States-held Canal Zone
threatened to erupt again into an
other anti-American riot. PreSi-
dent ErneSto de la Guardia prom
ised American officials in the Zone
and Undersecretary of State Liv-
ingston Merchant, now in Panama.
that the government would prevent
repetition yesterday, Panama's
Independence Day, of the violence
last November in which 80 per-
sons were injured and American
flags and property destroyed.
And in Cuba, the Fidel Castro
government named an outspoken
anti American, Mai. Ernesto
Guevara, to head Cuba's National
Bank. Mai. Guevara, an Argen-
tine physician who has been Pre-
mier Castro's closest aide since the
bearded revolutionary set out to
GUST President Fulgencio Batista,
has been called pro-Communist
and a bitter enemy of the United
States. AS head of the National
Bank, he will determine Cuba
economic policies. He also heads
the Agrarian Reform Institute
which directs the appropriation OF
foreign-owned lands.
ShakeupS continued throughout
the Castro regime, with the mod
crates being replaced by militant
FideliStas. Two Americans were
among scores of Cubans arrested
during the week and charged with
plots against the government.
Evening star., 1959-11-29
Steel:
New Talks

With steel production surging
toward 80 per cent capacity just
three weeks after a Federal in
junction ended the longest strike
in the industry's history, Govern
ment mediators are preparing to
bring labor and management to-
gether for new contract talks.
After meeting with Labor Sec
retary Mitchell and Prof. George
w. Taylor, chairman of the Pres
ident's emergency fact-findlng
board, last Wednesday, Joseph F.
Finnegan, head of the Federal
Mediation Service, said negotia-
tions will be resumed this week,
probably on Tuesday.
The new talks will begin with
no sign of any change in the
demands or attitude of either the
United Steelworkers of America
or the II big steel companies.
About two weeks ago, the union
turned down the latest industry
contract offer.
Mr.. Finnegan said: II am hope
full, as I always am" But it will
take more than hope if a settle
ment is to be reached before
January 26 when the 80-day Taft
Hartley injunction runs out. II
there is no pact by then, the
100000 steel workers will be free
to resume their strike. And that
is what they intend to do.
On Friday, the Government re-
1ected a union proposal that it
build stockpiles Of steel for ma
tional defense while it has the
chance. Philip A. Ray, acting
Secretary of Commerce, said the
idea was not feasible and indirectly
accused the union of trying to
shift to the Government the re-
sponsibility for any defense short
ages in the event of a new walkout
by the Steelworkers.
David j. Mcdonald, union chief.
meanwhile, cited the Govern
ment's report of new record
Evening star., 1959-11-29

titles as Christ in the Atomic
AgeO. He is superintendent of
the Foundry Methodist Church
Sunday school, and a past vice
president of the National Council
Of Churches Of Christ in America.
People just don't know Arthur
Flemming if they think he'd fold
under pressure" said Miss Mary
E. Switzer, head Of HEW's Office
of Vocational Rehabilitation, a
career Government enploye Of 81
years, who has worked with Mr..
Flemming in many different
agencies.
Hes a man of high moral
commitment she continued. He
lives what he breaches on Sunday.
Once he makes up his mind that
something is right, nothing stops
him-even if he thought it would
cost him his job"
Miss Switzer pointed out that
Mr.. Flemming will soon have to
go before Congress to defend his
agency's budget requests for next
year and that many Congressmen
have been among the angry chorus
protesting his cranberry pro-
nouncementS.
Il do not have anybody else I
have ever worked with in Wash
ington who would have taken such
a step right in the middle of a
budget fight" she said.
One of the reasons Mr.. Flem-
ming has been so successful is
: that he is a thorough PRO" in
Government service. He knows
how to operate the Government
jungle and how to keep his lines
clear.
In the cranberry crisis, for in
stance, aides say, he was careful
Evening star., 1959-11-29
On the Air.:
P0yoId

You won't find 1t high among
LOB opportunities" listed by en-
ployment agencies.
But there were plenty of OPEN
ings for record spinners and more
certain to come as the many
pronged investigation of "payola"
by Federal, city, network and
local station officials continued
to rock the disc jockey world last
week.
In New York, the big-time for
"deejays," Alan Freed, rock n
roll favorite, was dropped lrom
two stations and subpoenaed for
a grand jury appearance. Martin
Block. pioneer with his Make
Believe Ballroom" was questioned
by the District Attorney.
1t was pretty much the same
thing in many other cities, large
and small: designations and fir
ings in the wake of reports of
undercover payoffs for the plug
ging of certain records on radio
and televiSion.
The disc jockeys were not the
only ones on the spot. Some net
works and local stations control
or own stock in music publishing
and record companies and they
were feeling the heat.
The American Guild of Authors
and Composers called on the Fed
eral Communications Commission
to require broadcasterS to divert
themselves of conflicting inter-
ests" or face the penalty of re-
voked licenses.
In letter to FEC, the Guild
called the "payola" practices of
disc jockeys. merely a symptom"
and asserted:
"The disease itself is the in
volvement of the entire broadcast
ing industry, including the net
works and local stations, in a de-
liberate and successful distortion
of music programming for their
own financial gains"
The House Subcommittee on
Legislative Oversight, which ex-
posed the rugged television quiz
shows earlier this fall, will have
another set of juicy hearings for
the disillusioned public when it
opens up on this new facet of the
way of life in some sections of the
radio-television business, probably
in January.
Evening star., 1959-11-29

making it public for fear of libelO
10. Issued an outspoken state
ment supporting fiouridation of
water to impede tooth decay.
Motive Of Kingston, N. Y.
Arthur Flemming was born in
Kingston, N. Y, in 1905. He re-
ceived his ABB. degree from Ohio
Wesleyan in 1927, an MA. from
American University the next
year, and an LIB from George
Washington in 1888. He also holds
29 honorary degrees.
After four years with U. S. Daily
and five at American University
(where he was instructor in
Government. director of the
school of public affairs and ex-
ecutive officer) he went to the
Civil Service Commission.
He has served on a host of
other government boards and
agencies, including the War Man
power Commission Once of De-
fenSe Mobilization. He was a mem
Der of both Hoover Commissions,
and has been a member of the
special three-man Presidential Ad-
visory Commission on Govern
ment ORGANIZATION since its crea-
ton in 1858,
President Eisenhower's brother
Milton and Nelson Rockefeller were
the other two memers, until the
latter resigned in January on as
Suming the New York governor
ship. This association has given
rise to some talk that Mr.. Flem-
ming is a Rockefeller man." and
that his vice presidential aspira-
tions., If any, would be tied to the
New Yorker's presidential chances.
Flemming asides insist that their
man gets along well with Vice
President Nixon too.
Mr.. Flemming is also: Head of
the board of trustees of the Ma
tional Cultural Center, a member
of the Board of Governors of the
American Red Cross, and a mem
Der of the governing board of Ma
tional Cathedral (an honor grant
ed few non-Episcopalians).
He works at all Of these. He
has an extraordinary capacity to
dig in and master any problem
with which he IS involved, aides
say.
He takes the big Federal budg-
ct home, and when he comes back
ne knows more about 1t than our
budget officers" said one.
The Welfare Secretary neither
somkeS nor drinks. He tries to
walk about 40 minutes each morn
ing, meeting his chauffeur at some
agreed-upon point.
The Secretary and his wife, the
former Bernice Virginia Moler
(whom he met at AU and married
in 193D live in Chevy Chase, Md,
with their twin sons, Arthur Henry
and Thomas Madison, 16. There
are three older children, one mar
ried and two away at school.
Despite his morning walk, Mr..
Flemming usually is in his office
before $3.50 am. He leaves about
Z pm, frequently works Saturday
and Sunday, too. He is seldom
seen on the Washington social
circuit, has no hobbies unless his
church work could be called one.
He relies on a baseball game or a
good book for his few moments
of relaxation. Recent reading has
included Earl Mazo's Richard
Nixon" and Allen Drury's Advise
and Consent"
Evening star., 1959-11-29

PORTRAIT
A Politician With a Moral ObIiqation

to keep the White House Informed
Of developments and had its back
ing all the way.
A man equally idealistic and
high principled. but less skilled in
the minutiae Of Government oper-
ations, would have stubbed his toe
so times by now, they point out.
Press Conferences Frequent
One of the devices Secretary
Flemming uses to good effect to
set forth his views is the biweekly
press conference-whichl most of
the Eisenhower Cabinet has used
frugally, and which was used
scarcely at all by his two HEW
predecessors, Mrs. Oveta Culp
Hobby and Marion Folsom.
A former newspaperman Che
worked for four years for David
Lawrence's U. S. Daily, now U. S.
News and World Report), Mr..
Flemming has feeling for a news
story, frequently turns to his type.
writer to dash OF a new lead on
a department release.
On budgetary matters, Mr.
Flemming has been a faithful
member Of the Eisenhower team"
Along with the rest Of the Cabi-
net, he pays his respects to fiscal
integrity" - although the pro-
grams he plumps for sometimes
seem out of keeping with a bal
anced budget. On matters of prin-
ciple he has been surprisingly
fortnight. He has, for instance:
l. Deplored the closing of
Southern schools in the integra-
ton fight and praised Virginia
Gov. Almond for his moderate
course in dealing with the prob
lem.
2. Warned private insurance
companies to take care of the
unmet needs of people or see the
government move in"
3. Denounced the loyalty oath"
required of students applying for
loans under the National Defense
Education Act. Several institu-
tions, including Yale, Harvard
and Princeton, subsequently have
refused to participate in the pro-
gram because of the oath require
ment.)
4. Advocated the doubling Of all
teachers salaries (the only Fed
eral ofhcial ever to do so, one
HEW admirer claims).
S. Spoken forthrightly against
water and air pollution, backing
his words with court action to
clean up several rivers Che has
limited at similar action against
the District to clean up the Po-
tomac).
6. Scored fraudulent" weight
reducers which he charged are
Fleeing" overweight Americans
Of $100 million a year.
Z. Cracked down on bootlegging
Of pep" pills to long-haul truck
drivers, citing evidence they caused
accidents.
8. Denounced false advertising
Of dentifrices.
9. Launched a Nationwide drive
against college degree mills" as
fraudulent" and a blight on the
American educational scene" He
promised continuous publication of
an up-to-date list of such inStitu-
tions. (The Office of Education has
been compiling such a list for IS
years, but has refrained from