Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1957-02-17
TIPS for the Primer

shrubs need pruning until two
or three years old. The exception
ii a bad fork is developing on
a tree. it may be corrected by
shortening one branch as much
as a fourth or third. This puts
the strength into the other which
will become the main trunk.
Azaleas and dogwoodS seldom
need pruning. If they encroach
on the walk or show signs of
disease they may be cut of, but
in most cases this should be done
Immediately after the Towering
season and before the buds for
the following seasons bloom
start forming.
The conifers may be pruned
at any time. However, it is
better to prune them just before
the new growth appears april
and September) so that the
pruning cuts are quickly hidden.
The exception to this rule is
that many will want to prune
them when greens are needed
for the making of wreaths and
holiday trimmings. The Mungo
pines are another exception. The
best way to keep them within
bounds is to cut the candles, I"
the new growth shoots. in half.
Spruce. Douglas fir, and the
pines should have their leaders
shortened only when the garden
er is willing to develop a new
leader year or so later.
Broad-Ieaved Eyergreens
The broad-leaved evergreens
usually need some cutting back
to keep them compact and to
prolong their useful life. Rhode
dendrons will get tall and leggy
In time unless the gardener cuts
the bloom from the top with
nice long stems. This may de-
tract a bit from the show but
1t will keep the bush attractive
for a longer time. However. if
the rhododendrons are too tall
and leggy they may be cut back
in the early spring March or
ApriD but only a portion of the
bush should be so pruned in any
one season.
FlOwering Shrubs
The early spring Towering
shrubs are best pruned after
the blooms have fallen and be-
fore the new growth has started.
This is so that We will not lose
any of the spring floral display.
However. if they have been neg
lected for some time it will
probably pay to prune them now.
Such pruning consists of re-
moving entire canes or stems
to as near the ground as they
can be cut. Take out from one
fourth to one-third of the canes
each year if you would keep the
bush compact and attractive.
The oldest canes, of course. are
the ones removed and they can
be recognized by the darkness of
the bark color which is usually
somewhat scaly. This is called
the renewal system Of pruning
and is essential if we would main
tain the quality of the bloom as
well as keep the shrub attractive
in appearance. Even the lilacs
need this type Of pruning. and
it is a must" for such spreaders
as the forsythia. spirea. deutzia.
weigelia. etc.
Pruning for Better Fruit
Fruit trees need regular prun-
ing to keep them within reach
as we'll as to admit sunlight to
the center of the tree and to
stimulate fruit-bud formation.
This is rather complicated
field to discuss in the confines
of a column: hence it is suggest
ed that the gardener might
better attend a pruning demon
stration such as are staged by
the garden clubs. However. there
is one point-the pruning cut
should always be made about
eighth of an inch above a
bud which points in the direction
that the new shoot is to grow.
In other words. the new growth
will come from the nearest
healthy bud to the point Of the
cut. BY following this rule it is
easy to shape a bush or tree by
carefully observing the direction
the bud points below the point
Of the cut.
Grapes
Grapes are normally pruned so
as to leave spurs with two buds
along the cane that is to serve
as the trunk. ALI other wood is
removed and it may be desirable
to shorten the cane II it is too
long. Most grape vines grow so
vigorously in this area If culti-
waited and fertilized that they
occupy too much space. The
selection Of the canes to be the