Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1956-02-05
By WILBUR H. YOUNGMAN

September is the month In
which lawn work Is usually done,
but sometimes there are reasons
why it cannot be done in the fall
Rather than wait q whole season
we do the best job possible in
the spring. Much Of the success
of spring lawn work depends
upon doing it early. This is
especially true If bluegrasses are
to be used in the seeding. They
take from two to four weeks to
terminate and so the gardener
should plan to seed them in
February even though the
ground is frozen. yes even ii
snow-covered.
Ordinarily the ground is not
in condition to be spaded or
worked in February and so the
enrichment with humus must
wait to be added later in the
form of top dressing, but the
seeding itself cannot be safely
put of and so should be done.
Fescue and Zoysia
There are two exceptions to
this rule.
First,s we may use the fine
lee we'd fescues-Chewings and
Red-which take only seven days
ia terminate and consequently
may be planted in March with
the reasonable assurance that
they will be established before
hot weather. Since these two
grasses are now much less costly
than formerly. it seems wise to
use them more than has been
customary in the past. The
CheWings fescue is undoubtedly
the best grass that we have for
shady situations. The Danish
bluegrass is probably somewhat
better in moist shade than the
Chewings. but normally, 1t is
shortlived in this area.
Secondly, If the new lawn is
to have Meyer Zoysia. the work
OF soil preparation and planting
may well be deferred until later
In the season. The Zoysia is a
hot weather grass and should
not be planted until the soil has
warmed up. Midway Is early
enough to set out the plugs OF
sprigs.
More Data on Bluegrasses
Speaking of the bluegrasses
there are three to consider. One
Is the common Kentucky blue
grass, the second is the much
publicized Merton Blue. and the
third is the Delta. Blue. The
Kentucky bluegrass has been the
standard for our lawns for many
years. A few years ago the
Merton bluegrass was introduced
as being highly resistant to leaf
spot, a common disease that
frequently defoliated KentuckJ
bluegrass. However. reports as tc
its performance in this area are
qliite varied and leave some
doubt as to its usefulness in oui
lawns. Delta is a newer variety
and as yet not widely tested.
The seeding rate for grass seed
is the same in the spring as ir
the fall-from three to foul
pounds per 1000 square feet Of
area. For reseeding old lawns
this can be cut to one to two
pounds. Bluegrass is a very small
seed and takes a lower rate. The
fescues are larger seeds and con-
sequently 1t takes more to pro-
duce the desired stand. However
thick seeding gives the appear.
ance of q fine lawn but in the
end the crowded plants do moi
thrive as well as when q thinner
stand Is OBTAINED.
Firm Seed Into Lawn
The fescue seeds should bt
covered with q light layer Of soil
but the bluegrass seed should b.
firmed into the soil, not raket
into 1t. After seeding any kind o.
a. grass. 1t is well to lightly rol
the soil so as to firm 1t about TIT
seeds. This is important.
Fertilizer may be applied a.
the same time as the seed. since
the burning qualities will largel!
be .leacned out before the seet
sprouts. Do not. however, appl!
fertilizer a week or two later
Another don't do not apply I
weedkiller such as 2, AID o.
Phenyl mercuric acetate jus
before sowing the grass seed. I
you do, you are not likely to hav'
q lawn. The seed will be wasted
After seeding and rolling thu
lawn 1t Is desirable to mulch with
Qtrou mr. carnn nknar linfi