davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1955-07-29
FRIDAY, JULY 2e, 1856 Xxx B.
Putou Brings Back
Padded Shoulders

PARIS. July 20 R.Wom-
en- are broad-shouldered and
hipless in the first fashion
showing Of the new Paris fall
season.
Jean Patou, leading of the
style parade this morning, an
nounced tersely: Hips de-
leted, shoulders broadened."
For the first time in many a
season-almost since the New
Look revolution in l946, in
fact - shoulders are padded
again.
Colors are smoky, foggy
blacks, browns and grays,
with hardly a gleam of light.
The exception is in brocade-
like Persian printed satins,
with the brilliance and color
of Eastern enamels.
Patou also proclaimed a
slight lengthening of skirts,
but you wouldn't notice it. The
waist he calls normal is
never nipped in or marked by
a seam. 1t is lightly fitted by
the cut, and just about where
it belongs, with a tendency to
be high, if anything.
Bouffant Evenings
Party dresses are bouffant.
skirted from the hip, with
close clinging torsos. The
slinky, strapless long evening
gown is in favor again, at
least at Patou.
There is oriental richness in
heavily embroidered bodices
for cocktail and evening wear.
Fullness is swept to the back,
in bustly peacock tail skirts.
The newly repadded shoul-
ders are not squared, as they
used to be when that fashion
went out. They slope, with
the padding put in at q low
sleeve-line.
Patou often uses a criss-
cross cut under the bust to
imply a slightly raised waist
line. His bustline is high, small
and lightly draped or marked
with buttoned tabs or apron
| bib effects. Necklines are high
so discreet as to be completely
unremarkable.
Evening star., 1955-07-29

"musts." A good skirt like a
wool lacey black knit worn
with a decollete black jersey
top or for a more casually
elegant look a black cashmere
is a good fashion investment
as a dressy skirt that isn't
restricted by its fabric to just
very dressy occasions. We,
like the bulky look of so many
of Toni's new sweaters. These
bear a strong design resem-
blance to the heavy shaker
knit sweaters of the past. We
like the tortoise with black
and gray striped color trio
Toni Owen is sponsoring for
her fall and winter separates.
X X 4 n
Overheard two models talk
ing in New York. Said one:
Gosh, you look wonderful" !"
Said the other: I'm eating
these days" The slim, emaci-
ated look is de riguer for mod
els these days. Some models
must diet so much that, as
one put it, she practically falls
fiat on her face she's so IA
tigued at the end of the day.
4 X X y
What does a designer do on
his or her day off? The Fine
Arts Committee of the Fashion
Group is finding out that many
are Sunday painters. An ex-
hibition of paintings, oil and
water color, will be held at the
Wildenstein Galleries from Oc-
Evening star., 1955-07-29
MARY MARGARET
MCBRIDE
Teenoqers Are Nice People

ing a work-Saturday. We stu
dents worked that day and
made UP the difference. The
Norwegian girl is going to stay
with the family of one Of the
sophomores." s."
I've done my share of head
shaking over the young of to-
day. but I'm glad that ] can
point to some fine, thoughtful
teenagers. glad, too. that our
papers are filled with edi-
torials, statements and letters
to the editor reminding us that
only small percentage of our
young people are problems"
as far as delinquency goes. In
deed, the most recent statistics
indicate that the delinquency
figures run only around 3 to Z
per cent.
I'm certain that these must
be judged IN connection with
many factors: the attitude Of
parents. how tough the police
and courts are in a given
community. how much atten-
ton is paid by school and
municipal authorities to the
subject. But, even if the fig
ures were much lower, they
would still be far too high. So
it is gratifying that we are all
| as concerned about the matter
! as we'd be if it were a COM
municable disease - which
maybe it is.
Anyway, if we can put up
the fine young boys and girls
We know against the frighten-
ing headlines, maybe We'll be
less pessimistic. There may be
a few bad apples in the barrel,
but the good ones have never
been better.
Evening star., 1955-07-29

Flying down to Rio on Au-
gust 2 is Rachel Wahl
whose career is taking her
down there. The social sec
retary of the Brazilian En-
bassy will be one of the group
inaugurating the first fight
of the Varig airline. Also on
the plane leaving from New
York will be Merle Oberen,
Mr.. and Mrs. Robert Consi-
dine, the Igor Cassinis, Zsa
Zsa Gabor, the Junior Orson
Munns and Serge Obolensky.
The temperature in Rio will
be around 65 degrees so Rachel
has done an advance bit of
autumn shopping here in
Washington by getting black
town cotton suit. and a blue
and white checked wool. t"The
women in Rio wear a lot of
dark clothes, and since it is so
important for us to look COM
Evening star., 1955-07-29
FASHION
NOTEBOOK
By ELEM


pletely right, I made a point
of finding out exactly what
they wear there, !" she said.
She's taking silk dresses, too,
since they're wonderful trav-
elers and always look right.
\ y \ X
Toni Owen, talented sep
arates designer. advances the.
fashion theory that the polo
shirt in wool jersey is going
to be a big hit with back-to-
schoolers. Tortoise combined
with olive tones make an in
teresting color combination.
Toni says the multiplication
principle in fashion is one to
learn. since once women have
learned it well they seldom
make a wardrobe mistake.
The box jacket of jersey that
can team with the slick sheath
or with a slim skirt and an
overblouse is one of their
Evening star., 1955-07-29

tober % to November 8. De-
signers who have already en-
tered in New York include Mr..
John the milliner, Bonnie
Cashin the designer, and Les
ter Gaba the display expert.
Evening star., 1955-07-29

Mannish Prince Albert coats
and tunic-length suit jackets
are still part of the fashion
picture. They look a little like
riding habits.
Evening star., 1955-07-29
Meeting Last NIGHT

The Alexandria Chapter Of
Hadassah held its first meeting
for new members of the COM
munity last night at the home
of Mrs. I. j. Kenen. Holm
Hills.
Evening star., 1955-09-18
Recognition and Unity

Making an exchange Of ambas-
sadors contingent on approval OF
the Bundestag and the presidium
of the Supreme Soviet gives DR..
Adenauer leverage in case the
Kremlin tries to back out Of its
oral commitment to release the
German POWs. The Bundestag can
hold the diplomatic exchange under
advisement until the prisoners are
actually on their way home.
II do not doubt" DR.. Adenauer
said Of Premier Bulganin's promise
to him. that he will keep his
word" East German sources
claimed. however. the promise had
never been given.
Credit to GrotewohI?
Most observers expected that the
Kremlin was withholding news OF
the prisoners release from its own
people until credit could be given
the East German Communist regime
for their release. Premier Otto
Grotewohl and Party Boss Walter
-Ulbricht arrived in Moscow for
consultations on Friday.
While their reception was not
outwardly so impressive as the one
for DR.. Adenauer (no parade was
held; no crowds lined the streets
as they drove into town., all the
Soviet bigwigs with the exception
of the ailing Premier Bulganin
were on hand at the airport to
greet them. Previous visits evoked
no such displays. The intention
was transparent. The world had to
be shown emphatically that Mos
COW had not abandoned its East
German ally. The blow to East
Berlin's prestige in recognizing
Bonn was quite enough.
when Herr Grotewohl spoke at
the airport as If he represented all
the German people, he was conspic-
uously disregarding the new Soviet
two -Germanies concept.)
Tough Unity Policy
Remarks by Communist Party
Chief Nikita S. Khrushchev during
the negotiations last week led
American observers in Moscow to
conclude that the Soviet Union
has no plan to allow German
unification, even If they can get
some kind of neutralized Germany.
Mr.. Khrushchev is said to have
asked DR.. Adenauer: Why should
we submerge the German Demo-
cratic Republic east Germany.
especially since we consider it to be
the Germany Of the future?
This rhetorical question con-
tanned the hint that the Kremlin
would never allow unification un-
Evening star., 1955-09-18
Prisoners and Hostages

What happened to 1,250,000
German soldiers captured by Russia
in World War II remains to this
day mystery. The fate of another
100000 persons allegedly picked up
py Soviet agents off the streets OF
war-ravaged Germany in the early
postwar days is equally vague. It
is known, however, that Soviet slave
labor camps like Vorkuta in the
Arctic TEEN with Germans.
This human problem is a poll
tical fact of topmost significance
in West Germany. When DR.. Aden-
auer went to Moscow. he made the
obvious pitch. Kremlin leaders
sensitive to the political values in
a democracy used their advantage.
They got their embassy in Bonn by
paying" with something less than
10000 Germans.
Chancellor Adenauer says that
both Premier Bulganin and Party
Secretary Khrushchev also prom
ised to look up any of the 100000
Germans whom Bonn says 1t can
point out in the Soviet Union.
But few, including, probably, the
Chancellor, expect the Reds to di-
rect public attention to these wan
ton reparations. It will be too easy
to prove West Germans wrong" in
their assumptions.
Nevertheless, the Kremlin leaders
were enough impressed by the
Adenauer charges to retaliate with
some accusations Of their own.
They suddenly announced a claim
that 10000 Soviet citizens-first
Evening star., 1955-09-18
POLITICS
Forms and Ike Remain
Two Top Issues as
Sc Wurmup Goes On

The Nations politicians continued
their warmup for '56 last week,
disputing two issues:
Who's to blame for the falling
income Of farmers and what must
be done about it?
Is President Eisenhower really
a good leader?
Democrats, of course, were on
the offensive. Senator Paul H.
Douglas, Democrat of Illinois, &C
cused the administration of going
back on 1852 Eisenhower pledges
of 80 per cent and 100 per cent (of
parity price support.
And a meeting of Midwest Demo-
Gratis produced a formula for a
new" farm program: Rigid 80 per
cent price support on basic crops
plus identical support on livestock
and poultry, the old Democratic
formula; production payments" to
farmers producing surplus crops, a
throwback to the Brannan plan;
and incentive payments to farmers
who will cooperate in conservation
programs, an old dust bowl device.
Nixon's PIon
Vice President Nixon laid out the
Republican defense in a speech
which apparently was designed as
the official G. o. p. line on farm
policy.
The Administrations long-range
Evening star., 1955-09-18

Nationalist Pot Boils
As French Feverishly
Hunt SeIf-RuIe Plan

French Premier Edgar Faure's
deadline for a solution" to the
Morocco self-government problem
came and went last Monday with
neither a clear-cut announcement
of a French proposal to the nation
alists nor the riots that were widely
expected to ensue If no acceptable
offer was made.
The French plan-leaked widely
among newsmen-calls for the dep
osition of Morocco Sultan Sidi
Mohammed ben Arafa, a Paris
appointee, and designation Of q
three-man regency council to take
his place. Later a representative"
government would be set UP by the
council to give Morocco "self rule"
on domestic affairs.
Last week, ben Arafa made two
announcements insisting he in
tended to stay on the throne. And
Premier Faure admitted on Friday
Evening star., 1955-09-18
INA
Peron's Army Rises
In BIoodiest Fruy
OF o-Yeur Regime

Argentine President Juan -.
Peron had another civil war on
his hands this week end. Army
and navy rebels in outlying prov
inces launched it Friday.
It was the fourth attempt to
oust the dictator since Mayfair
force uprisings last June 16. and
produced the bloodiest fighting OF
the stormy nine-year Peron regime.
Up to now the two Nincipal
sources of Peron's power have been
the army, out of which he rose to
rule, and the workers movement
organized into the General Con-
federation of Labor. This was the
first time any factionS in the Army
had openly rebelled since 1851.
Two weeks ago Peron had
launched a campaign Of violence
to purge his enemies. He an
nounced plans to form organized
workers into a sort of militia. This
"rabble- e-in-arms" concept alarmed
dissidents in the army.
The rebels started like all Latin
revolutionaries with grandiose
claims of their successes. First
reports said they held all of South
ern Argentina and the important
province of Cordoba which borders
Buenos Aires province on the west.
Later 1t appeared the insurgents
may once have held four or pos
sibly six cities in the south. BY
noon yesterday, however, fighting
concentrated at two points, the
naval base at Bahia Blanca and
Cordoba.
Peron can be expected to keep
his strongest forces in Buenos Aires,
which is the strategic hub of Ar
gentina. Communications focus
there. without them a co-ordinated
military campaign is extremely diff
ficult.
State Department observers, in
touch with the American Ambassa-
dor in Buenos Aires, were impressed
by the organization Of the revolt
and its breadth. But they saw
no evidence yesterday that Peron
was in imminent danger of being
deposed.
Evening star., 1955-09-18
PROBES
Preparedness Group.
Rights Investigators
Open Autumn Season

The late summer lull on Capitol
Hill showed signs last week of end.
ing. Investigations into internal
and external security heralded what
is expected to be a fine fall season
for probes.
The Senate Preparedness sub.
committee announced results of a
study of profits made by aircraft
manufacturers. The subcommittee
did not conclude whether or not
the profits were high or low, merely
reported that 81 companies studied
had an average net profit last year
of so per cent of their net worth
before taxes. or n per cent profit
before taxes when comparing costs
and sales.
Another section of the report may
prove in the long run to be more
significant news. The subcommittee
said it was moving into an inves-
tigation of production and procure-
ment of air weapons-guided
missiles and planes. The group said
it would try to compare American
and Soviet progress on their air..
power buildups.
It would be fair guess also that
the committee will hear testimony
about the reports that the Defense
Department has been requested to
cut a billion dollars from its cur
rent spending.
The Pentagon is searching for
budget cuts. Secretary of the Army
WILDER M. Brucker and Gen. Max
well D. Taylor, Army chief of staff.
visited Defense Secretary Charles
E. Wilson in Detroit last week to
talk finances. Similar visits had
been made earlier by a top-level
delegation from the Air Force.
Mr.. Brucker said his aim was to
find housekeeping economies" not
to cut the strength of the Army.
Hearing on Rights
An investigation which seemed
sure to tackle problems of internal
security was opened yesterday
morning. Senator Thomas c.
Hennings, jr., Democrat of Missouri.
started his Judiciary subcommittee
through a long study of the status
today of constitutional rights.
He planned to start down the Bill
of Rights, opening with the First
Amendment, guaranteeing rights OF
religion, free speech and press.
assembly and petition of the
Government.
The opening session, held on the
l68th anniversary of the signing
of the Constitution, was largely
ceremonial. The Senators met in
the historic Supreme Court cham
ber in the Capitol Building and
heard reports from spokesmen for
labor, farmers. business, churches.
newspapers, teachers and other
groups.
Evening star., 1955-09-18
REVIEW OF THE WEEK
Bonn Makes Debut in World Diplomacy

program, he said would be this:
"A flexible parity system aimed
at keeping surpluses under control"
(This is the existing g. o. P. pro.
gram.)
"a bold, imaginative program
aimed at developing new markets
at home and abroad agriculture
Secretary Benson was in Europe
this month working on this one.)
Increased research to reduce
costs of production and distribu-
ton and increased uses OF farm
products" (This would be an In.
crease over an early Eisenhower re-
duction.)
Continued soil conservation,
REA and other programs designed
to protect the value Of the farmers
investment and improve his living
conditions" Democrats say these
programs have suffered under the
Republicans.)
IA program of rural develop
ment. to aid the marginal farmer"
(This apparently refers to a pro-
gram laid down last April by the
PRESIDENT reversion to Demo.
cratic ideas, Democrats said.
Mr.. Nixon told farmers that
parity" the ratio Of farmers
costs to his income, was not a good
measure of his financial well-being
and that drop in the parity ratio
from 95 under the Democrats TO
SO today was not the basis Of .
good election issue. He drew at
tention instead to per capita IN.
come, which, his figures indicated,
remained steady under the Repub-
licans. This he said is the true
measure Of farmer well-being. cThs
Agriculture Department. however,
uses parity as a measure OF trlds.
pidunl farmer prosperity. and to-
tai realized net farm income Tor
the measure of oDerGH farm pros
perity. Both have been going
down. Per capita income has been
steady because more persons are
leaving the lando
It was Gov. George M. Leader OF
Pennsylvania who led last weeks
attacks on President Eisenhower.
Gov. Leader said his most promi.
nent constituent was just "a box
Office name. a folksy nickname and
a wide smile" and that the Presi-
dent was dodging the responsibility
for blunders of his subordinates.
The Governor charged that the Re-
publican Party was controlled by
an underworld" which he ex-
planned later was made up Of spe-
cial-interest groups.
Speaking for the White House,
acting press secretary Murray Sny-
der said the only underworld he
knew was criminal underworld
one that had opposed the RepubE-
can Party in various elections. He
mentioned the name of Frank Cos
tello, the racketeer who had had
connections with some New York
Democrats.
It was hard to say that anything
had been settled by the weeks ex-
changes. Declining farm income
remained big political issue. and
neither party seemed to have any
thing basically new to offer on the
subject.
And President Eisenhower's ap-
parent personal prestige remained
a thing to marvel at.
Evening star., 1955-09-18
FAR EAST
Three Americans Freed
By Reds; Combodion
Voters Beck Ex-Kinq

Three Of the % Americans whom
Communist China promised to re-
lease after tedious ambassador
level negotiations at Geneva crossed
the Chinese border near Hong Kong
last week.
On Friday the Reds let q Full
bright scholar and a Catholic priest
60. Yesterday an air transport
pilot came across.
The Fulbright scholar. Walter A..
Rickett of Seattle. apparently had
been thoroughly brainwashed. He
admitted spying on China for the
United States and said he believed
the stories that the United Nations
forces used germ warfare in Korea.
The others said they had admitted
spying to get out. but repudiated
their confessions.
The pilot had spent more time in
Communist Chinese jails than any
other known American--five years
and eight months. He was in good
health.
In Geneva. Peiping's Ambassador
suggested ID that higher level talks
be arranged, perhaps between Pre-
mier Chou En-lai and Secretary of
State John Foster Dulles. and ca
that the free worlds trade embargo
against Red China be lifted.
The United States called both
proposals premature.
Cambodio
In Cambodia, anti Communist
political forces scored a smashing
victory in a nationwide election last
Sunday. Led by their former king
turned politician. Norodom Shan
ouk, the Popular Socialist Commu-
nifty Party captured all 81 seats in
the Cambodian Assembly.
The International Control Com
mission, which had criticized an
earlier Cambodian election, had
not yet reported on the conduct of
last weeks vote as the Review went
to press. India, Canada and Poland
sit on the commission, set up at the
1854 Geneva conference which
ended the war in Indo-China.
Evening star., 1955-09-18
Accord With Soviet
SignedAfter ! ough
Round Of Meetings

What amounted to West Ger
many's postwar debut in world
diplomacy ended last Wednesday
in Moscow after five days Of tooth
and-nail negotiations between
Chancellor Konrad Adenauer and
the Soviet Unions smiling but
hard bargaining leaders.
West Germany's late occupiers-
Great Britain, France and the
United States--still had their am
bassadors looking over the Cham
cellor's shoulder. But this time 1t
was DR.. Adenauer alone. not the
western Big Three. who called the
shots.
What long term results the his
toric meetings viii have no one can
yet say. There was strong cur
rent of pessimism in the West,
however, about both short-range
and long range implications Of the
decisions made.
Conference Results
Briefly, here are the results Of
the conference;
Q Full diplomatic relations. in
cluding embassies in Bonn and
Moscow, will be established If the
parliaments agree.
. DR.. Adenauer announced that
the Soviet Union had given a
promise that 9,626 Germans con-
victed of war crimes would be sent
home. This promise. however. was
not reduced to writing. and the
controlled Russian press has not
acknowledged it.
Q West Germany's claim to speak
for all Germans was fatty rejected
by Kremlin leaders. Moscow said
it recognizes the existence Of two
Germanies.
Q West Germany's bid to reclaim
$4,000 square miles of former Ger
man territory. now a part Of Red
Poland, was bluntly rebuffed.
Q Trade talks between Moscow
and Bonn were agreed on.
o Soviet Premier Marshal Nikolai
Bulganin twho took to his bed sick
after DR.. Adenauer got on a plane
for home) got an informal invita-
ton to visit Bonn.
Q Chances for unifying Germany,
even if some guarantee OF neu-
tralization is arranged, appeared
simmer than they had been even
before this summer of smiles
began.
German sources are bitter over
the outcome. In contrast to an
American statement to the effect
that Dr.. Adenauer had "won," some
German friends Of the Chancellor
were forthrightly saying he had
lost important points.
These sources said Kremlin ne
gotiators had insisted on a cold
blooded deal in human bodies: For
one Soviet ambassador in Bonn
they were willing to offer 9.626
German POWs. They would not
settle for special mission; any.
thing less than full embassy status
did not interest Moscow.
The outcome, obviously, was not
a hopeful augury for the Big Four
foreign ministers conference which
is to open in Geneva october 81.
The spirit of Geneva, despite last
weeks joviality at the Moscow
feast tables, was taking on ghost
like pallor.