davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1955-03-06
History Of CorsetY
The Things Women Can Gel Themselves Into

antidote, and pallid complex
ions resulted.
The mania for full skirts
was at its peak by 1850. Cloth
ing was worn in such abun-
dance that 1t took plenty Of
navigation for a woman to
get around.
BY 1860 the machinery made
steel hoop replaced the dozens
of petticoats.
BustIe Effect
The hustle back silhouette
was part and parcel of the
feminine fashion picture of
the 1870s. Skirts were tight
but the fullness had been
drawn back in a hustle effect.
That no lady could bend or
sit in comfort was another
fashion fact of that era. Spe-
cial hustle chairs were created
by furniture makers to accom-
modate these ladies.
Then sports entered the pic
ture and the popularity of ten
mis-, roller skating and bicy-
cling Strengthened out the cor
set front and tight lacing gave
an inch or two.
The ideal figure in the '90s
was a 36-inch bust, % waist,
and 40 inches across the hips.
This was the IS" line, the
agonized ancestor Of Dior's H
and A lines.
During the early 19OOs the
Evening star., 1955-03-06
It's Fashion Date

1880 to $3.50 in the depart
ment also.
Wednesday. March 9:
INCA presents her fashion
angles at the Sheraton-Park
Hotel. l pm.
Thursday, March 10:
KAY FUCHS, the famous
glove designer, will be at Julius
Garfinckel g. Co. in their glove
department for customer con-
sultation from $50 to $50
pm.
Friday, March II:
LUNCHEON FASHION
SHOW, l pm, Palladian
Room, Shoreham Hotel with
fashions from Jelleff's.
COCKTAIL FASHIONS, 6
pm, Mayflower Hotel Lounge,
with Jelleff's presenting the
new fashions.
COTTON DRAMA, a fabric
show at Woodward & Lothrop's
with formal showings at 11:00
and 800 pm, plus an informal
presentation of the newsmak-
ing cottons from IL to 5
O'Clock. The showing on the
9th floor in the Fabric Corner
to be repeated the next day.
Saturday, March IL:
WASHINGTON PARTY,
1880 pm. Crystal Room with
Mrs. Gladstone Williams di-
recting the fashion proceed
ingS.
Evening star., 1955-03-06
By Eleni

One long look at what
previous fashion eras did to
the female figure ought to be
proof that Dior's latest stress
on the long torso isn't as out
rageous as some think.
A summing up of the history
Of corsetry shows that women
will follow fashions fancy into
some strange pathways.
We show you some in
sketches proving why the
"nothing's changed just rear
ranged" slogan is probably the
neatest and most accurate
description of the shape situa-
tion for 1855.
Don't blame dress designers
alone for the direction the
feminine form takes.
Many a frill and furbelow
has been more than a symbol
of vanity. Such diverse in
fluences as the theater, the
Orient, wars, sports, machin-
cry, and even the advent of
the typewriter, have had a lot
to do with the way women
shape up.
Century by Century
In the early 10Th century
the tiny waist was it.
Tightly laced corsets pro-
duced aromatic spirits for an
Evening star., 1955-03-06

look was termed the "kanga-
roo bend" Corsets were worn
low. curved in sharply at the
back, pushing the upper part
of the body out in front and
the lower part in back.
In 1907 women hobbled
along and the long, svelte line
emerged. Corsets were straight
from the waist and sometimes
grew to a length of II inches,
reaching just above the knee.
Back lacing had had it. And
around this time the first
front-lace corsets were brought
to America for the lazy wom-
en-" by H. w. Gossard in 1910.
Prior to World War I the
tight skirts got Oriental-look-
ing and had tunics posed over
them.
BY 1915 skirts hit ankle
length. The figure was straight
and almost shapeless.
French designer Vionett in
1919 created a tubular frock
of crepe de chine and Chanel's
boyish suit swept the fashion
world.
Flopper Era
The '20s found skirts at the
knee. Waists became invisible.
The bustline was bound with
flattening mot f1attering)
strips of lace and jersey. Those
who could, discarded wearing
corsets. The heaviest figures
Evening star., 1955-03-06

took to the first "all-in-one"
garments.
It was around this time the
garter belt came into fashion
with a hidden mad-money
pocket.
When world situations ge'
tense and things tighten up
the fashion silhouette may
reflect the mood. Before World
War II the waist started being
nipped again.
Dior's new look of 1947 was
the full Towering Of the
earlier one. That was the era
of the basque, the waist cinher,
and plenty of, petticoats. The
princess line was it.
The easing up of current
silhouettes may have been a
sixth-sense operation for a
lot of designers. But certainly
the current foundations are
going to shape up the fashion
situation.
Evening star., 1955-03-06
Monday, March 7:

LUNCHEON FASHION
SHOW, pm, Mayflower Ho-
tel lounge, with fashions from
Jellef's.
PERSONAL APPEARANCE
Of Estee LADDERS beauty rep
resentative. She will demon
strate the new home facial
kit, complete with the famous
cleansing oil, creme pack,
super-rich all-purpose creme
and skin lotion. The kit is
specially priced for this promo
tion at Woodward & Lothrop's
through March IL.
AUDREY HONARD, spe-
cial representative for Helena
Rubinstein. will answer your
questions at S. Kann & Sons
through the week. Mature
women will want to query her
about the new skin serum
and contour-lift film created
specifically to lift sagging
contours and smooth out
wrinkles. Dryness and lines
are no longer the inevitable
signs of maturity when older
women take care of their
skins.
Tuesday, March 8:
YOUNG VIEWPOINT dresses
will be modelled at Wood
ward & Lothrop's, third floor,
women's dress department, at
IL and 2::30 pm. There will
be informal modelling from
Evening star., 1955-03-06
New ShirtWuist

A shirtwaist dress with
added feminine touches is
fashions latest. One in Dac-
ron and cotton has shirt col
lar, long sleeves for a tailored
appearance, but the front and
back bodice are ruff1ed in ver-
tical strips of nylon lace.
Montana farmer-stockman. [volume] (Great Falls, Mont.) 1947-1993, 1955-03-01
R-LYNN Hydraulic Horsepower Products
LA) HI-LO-PAC
PUMP
MODEL 900

A Complete Hydraulic
System
The HF-LO-PAC is actual
Ivy TIVE pumps two CON-
troll valves, pressure re-
lief valve, and oil reser-
vOir i'm one compact unit.
Can be used for either
dOubIe-acting or single
acting cylinders. Delivers
up TO 10 mp or IL gpm.
Montana farmer-stockman. [volume] (Great Falls, Mont.) 1947-1993, 1955-03-01
(C) HORSEPOWER
PUMP
MODEL 400
LIVE POWER

The 400 PUMP is a basic
hydraulic unit, land must
be used with a control
valve, oil reservoir, etc.
Delivers 10 gpm at 1850
rpm. Can be driven either
direction up to 24OO rpm.
Montana farmer-stockman. [volume] (Great Falls, Mont.) 1947-1993, 1955-03-01
(Dl HORSEPOWER
VALVE
MODEL $50

The III O R s e p O w K R
VALVE is a generaI-pur-
pose, fOur-way valve. De-
signed for control of a
dOuble-acting ram, it can
be converted. to control q
singIe-acting ram. :. -.
Montana farmer-stockman. [volume] (Great Falls, Mont.) 1947-1993, 1955-03-01
Ezee Flow FERTILIZER SPREADERS
make fertilizer dollars GO twice as for


in
seeding thot There's when
no
MODEL 100" Of
MODEL ITO" q copocfyo of
Montana farmer-stockman. [volume] (Great Falls, Mont.) 1947-1993, 1955-03-01
OBJ STRoKoNTRoL
RAM
MODEL 1892

The Heavy-Duty STRO-
KONTROL RAM has q
S1z" bore. Incorporates
positive finger-tip depth,
or angle, control. Avail
able in 81, Is" and 16''
stroke lengths.
Montana farmer-stockman. [volume] (Great Falls, Mont.) 1947-1993, 1955-03-01
There's on
EASY-WAY
Posi- Hole Digger
To Fiji Your tractor

New EASYWAY hole digger hos simple
mounting 3point hitch There
TO complicated clutch mechonn
The hydraulic lift inontIy raise lower the
Simple the tractor valuable
digger and from the tractor
holes in hill sides. The EASY-WAY
efficient thot digs cIeon deep post holes
the Of practically soil Guide boF
controls notonoIy universal joint
mehone gears; full flight g. epoceobe
bit.
Montana farmer-stockman. [volume] (Great Falls, Mont.) 1947-1993, 1955-03-01
BLACKHAWK
HoIf-Trocks

BLAcK7AVK HALFTRACKS your
n q O power Wi
smeerp mud hard soft ground
fIototion stability BLACk4AWK HALFTRACKS
long
removed Use them for spreading
orodno powine harvesting cutotno, hauling budoz
and borrowing.
Montana farmer-stockman. [volume] (Great Falls, Mont.) 1947-1993, 1955-03-01

The HYDRA-SEAL HOSE
COUPLER is a quick
connect, free-fIow, self
sealing, break-away coup
Ter. Free flow through the
coupler permits operation
without heating or power
loss due to coupler resist
ance.
The people's voice., 1955-09-23
Montana's Wildlife

The daily press informs: wild game
management programs in Montana and
other states will receive a shot in the
arm through release of $13,467,648 ear
marked for wildlife." This release is
Pittman Robertson funds collected from
the people of the states by a tax on
firearms, shells and cartridges and is
placed in the federal treasury to be
expended by the Federal Fish and Wild
life Service in, aid the States in Wild
life Restoration and for other pur-
poses" The act provides the states
shall again contribute-funds. One dol
lar for every three of the above so,
let's add one third of the above, ST.
467,6 arriving at a grand total of
s17,956,864. Nice money for the biolog-
lists? This money will be DOLED back
to the states providing they comply
with ALL THE PROVISIONS OF THE
ACT, so Stat. 917.
The Secretary of Interior, who sd-
ministers the Act, says state laws pro-
viding for general cooperation with
federal agencies ARE NOT ADEQUATE
to meet the requirements. Each state
MUST SPECIFICALLY ASSENT to the
Act" by legislative enactment. Section
10 of the Act: "The Secretary of Agri-
culture (now Interior) is authorized to
make rules and regulations Qaws) for
carrying out the provisions of this
Act;" aid the states in wildlife restora-
tion act So, federal control of the
states wildlife. sovereign right of
the state.
For every dollar in Federal Aid
bureaucracy DEMANDS q dollars worth
of compliance. Should we, the people of
the sovereign State of Montana, be
elated over such acts of Congress and
our state legislature? / believe it was
Kipling who said: Thus runs the law
and the law shall run until the earth
in it's course is still, that who so eateth
another's bread shall do that others
will."-THOMAS @. PEASLEY, Roman.
The people's voice., 1955-09-23
MEA Committee Takes
Issue With Statements
Bv Ray Peck

Editor, The Peoples Voice.:
Regarding Mr.. Ray L. Peck's letter
to the editor printed in the September
/. 1866 issue, the Teachers Education
and Professional Standards Committee
of the Montana Education Association
feels obliged to correct some misstate-
ments made by Mr.. Peck.
The support given by the MEA' to
the bill calling for higher qualifications
for elementary certification was man
dated by the Delegate Assembly of the
MEA, and was not as Mr.. Peck stated,
an attempt by Mr.. d. ID. Cooper, MEA
Executive Secretary, personally, to raise
standards. The recommendation to pro-
mote such legislation was made by this
committee to the Delegate Assembly
and was accepted by majority vote
Mr. Peck chooses to ignore proven
facts when he states that it is foolish
ness" to think that the raising of stand
ards will produce more teacher candi-
dates A survey made in a recent year
showed that states with long estab-
lished degree requirements produced
79% more teachers over the previous
year, while low standard states pre-
pared 9.1%o fewer teachers than the
preceding year. These figures are from
the article, High Standards-More
Teachers" in the November, 1854, NEA
Journal We refer Mr.. Peck to this
article.
Montana ranks forty-third among the
states in the per cent of elementary
teachers with less than four years of
preparation. We are also among the
eight lowest states in requirements for
elementary teaching certificates. These
facts cause our committee to continue
to strive for higher standards of prepa-
ration to enable the boys and girls of
Montana to receive the best possible
education.
The statements by Mr.. Cooper re-
ferred to by Mr.. Peck were made to
commend the State Board of Education
and the State Superintendent for their
determined stand to maintain the pres
ent inadequate standards against pres
sure to lower even those. Sincerely
TEACHER EDUCATION AND PRO
FESSIONAL STANDARDS COMMITTEE
OF THE MEA, Helena.
The people's voice., 1955-09-23

schools 1t is omitted in our universities.
There are always teachers of history;
ancient, medieval, modern, English
American Gone course). These recog-
nize that knowledge of local geography
is needed for the understanding of his
tory. The teacher of Greek History
makes the pupil learn the outlines of
Sparta, Athens, Corinth, etc. / was made
to learn the outlines of England, Scot
land, Ireland. when majoring in Eng
lish-American History, 62 years ago.
We are not told such facts as, that
Montana is 8 times as large as Switzer
land; Java is as densely populated as
Belgium; that France, a republic, was
then the End largest colonial power;
that there was an Atlantic seaport in
Peru on the Amazon, leaving Peru a
mile wide; that the Gulf Stream runs
north of Norway and usually keeps
Archangel an ice-free port in the longi-
tude of Greenland; or that tin is not
found in paying quantity in North
America; or that India had then 800
million people and China had then prob
ably 500 million, or that because of
climate after 200 years of English rule,
there were only about so thousand
English in India; or that more fish is
eaten by people than meat, ESQ nations
would fight for fishing waters).
The average college graduate even
now thinks Lima, Peru, is south of San
Francisco, thought it is south of New
York City.
Mary! (Condon) take notice that in
your high schools territorial and eli
matte geography are not stressed as
they should be. Carl! (McFarland) be
aware that the University you are guild
ing well neglects the teaching of Eth
mic, lingual, botanical or economic
geography. Territorial climatic geog-
raphy started and guided history. Eth
mic, lingual, economic geography is the
present phase of history. The more we
know of the world the more tolerant
we grow. The keener the urge in our
Butte.
The people's voice., 1955-09-23

Says Kenfield
"E. j." Cannot Minimize
Benefits MPCo. Receives
From Canyon Ferry

Regardless of f. j. Parkinson's eff
forts to MINIMIZE the unusual benefits
private utility gets from public power,
the plain fact is Montana Power Com
pany is the only customer getting en-
ergy from federal Canyon Ferry. This
/ verified when / visited the dam a
short time ago with two friends. There
we found Mr.. Parkinson's Montana
Power Company very intimately inte-
grated with the Fsocialistic" Canyon
Ferry plant, soaking up most of the
energy being produced and carrying
it out over the private utility's and B
lines from East Helena
This neat arrangement, made pos
sibIe by the Dept. of Interiors un-
sayory wheeling contract, serves to
isolate the federal plant from rural
electric cO-operatfyes and other pos
sibIe users and thus eliminates COM
petition for the energy the company
gets for 2.5 mills per XVIII.
An insignificant amount of energy
from Canyon Ferry is going to run the
machinery of the dam and the small
government camp nearby. AS of August
27, 1866, there were no other users.
Uncle Sam has nowhere to go with his
power except into the company lines.
Some readers will remember a proposed
federal transmission line between East
Helena and Great Falls was thrown
wheeling contract was signed. So long
as rural electric co-operatives and
other users are discouraged from buy
ing the power because of high costs,
there will be only one customer.
Incidentally, Mr.. Parkinson says in
VOICE letter Of August rs that his
authority" on distribution of Canyon
Ferry power is Testimony introduced
at senatorial subcommittee hearing.
He doesn't say, however, WHO intro
duced those figures.
His figures, even if reasonably cor
rect, on what he calls 'non-firm power
not sold" only show the folly of the
present isolation of Canyon Ferry and
reinforce my contention that the Can
yon Ferry wheeling contract is bad
bargain for the taxpayers
One question intrigued me when
visited Canyon Ferry: How much does
the federal dam help the power COM
pany's six downstream DAMS, some
of which are rather antiquated and
The people's voice., 1955-09-23
Similar Case In
Beaverhead County

Minerals Engineering, Grand
Junction, Colo, firm which has been
mining and stockpiling tungsten ore
in Beaverhead county for the federal
government, is also attempting to
forego paying the net proceeds tax
and substantial portion of the metals
mines tax.
This company for 1854, in its first
production return to the State Board
of Equalization, showed a gross pro-
duction of S2,588,615 for tungsten
ore last year. For metals mines tax
purposes, the tax due the state on
that amount is $20,001. For net pro-
ceeds tax payments to Beaverhead
county, the company had deductions
The people's voice., 1955-09-23
The Study of Geography Is
Neglected In Schools
And Universities

/ know of no university that has pro-
fessors of, or courses in, the territorial,
climatic, ethnic, botanical lingual, or
economic geography of the world. John
Hopkins teaches Geo-Politics.
The Naval Academy, of course, gives
instruction, general and in detail, of
the ocean currents, shore lines, range
of ice bergs, temperatures of ports
and other phenomena pertaining to the
physical geography of the sea around
us.
The rise of air transportation, the
advance of globa1 communication by
telegraph telephone, radio; the uni
versa1 hope of the common people of
the world for peace Gin spite of their
rulers, drones, and selfish politicians),
the provision for &c balanced diet in
wintry zones, the fact that trade with
all the nations is the only chance for
capitalistic economies to long endure
without calamitous depressions; make
knowledge of geography in all it's
phases the most useful branch of learn
ing that any university could bestow
upon it's pupils.
1t is the essential of a liberal edu-
cation. 1t is neglected in our high
The people's voice., 1955-09-23

CONTINUED from Page One)
of Saltwater county, under protest,
more than seventy thousand dollars
net proceeds tax.
In arriving at the $731, ,108.56 sub
ject to net proceeds tax, the board
disallowed approximately 100000 in
claimed deductions including travel
expense, legal fees, expense of the
company's San Francisco office, etc.
American Chrome, by paying its
Saltwater county net proceeds tax
under protest will thus reserve unto
itself the right to challenge the state
boards reassessment through the
courts. The company has six weeks
from time of paying in which to file
court action questioning the legality
of the state boards reassessment rul-
ing.
The people's voice., 1955-09-23
AMERICAN CHROME MUST PAY $4,000 METALS MINES

of more than $2,100,000, leaving ap-
proximately 100000 subject to net
proceeds tax-or upwards of $4,000
tax money to Beaverhead county.
The company's original gross prod
uct figure was based on a federal
stockpiling price of $60-$63 per short
ton of tungsten ore.
Later, Minerals Engineering asked
the state board to permit it to file
an amended gross value report, based
on the New York price of $500 per
short ton rather than the $60-$63 per
short ton actually received by the
company from the federal treasury.
Under this amended return, the COM
pany claimed gross production value
of 81, 100000 for 1854, with the same
deductions of $2,100,000 listed on its
original report.
The state board turned down
Minerals request, observing that
the governing factor for determin-
ing the amount of both severance
taxes-metals mines and net pro-
ceeds-was the same in this instance
as with American Chrome; that the
actual price received, not the New
York or world metals price, is the
price upon which such taxes are
TO be paid.
Under the proposed amended return
Minerals Engineering would not have
been subject to any net proceeds tax
in Beaverhead county for 1854 and
would have had to pay the State treas
ury only $10,125 instead of the much
higher figure of $20,0001.
The people's voice., 1955-09-23
The Readers Forum

inefficient. Not only does the COM
pany receive cheap government power
70 firm up it's supply but in addition
enjoys, 1 am sure. considerable stabfI-
fty i'm stream flow from Canyon Ferry
winter storage.
The taxpayers dam also gives the big
private utility important operating
benefits. Canyon Ferry with it's auto
matte controls appears to serve might
lily in easing the sudden loads that are
often thrown on the company's down
stream system. This situation must be
very comforting to company stock
holdersi
Over the Columbia watershed. federal
Hungry Horse Dam has virtually dou-
bled the capacity of the two Montana
Power Company dams at Kerr and
Thompson Falls and the Washington
Power and Light dam at Cabinet Gorge
three sweet government subsidies for
private power.
Mr.. Parkinson tries to leave the i'm
there is plenty of power in
Montana. We have heard that argument
for many, many years from private
power spokesmen. 1t is an argument
the power demands of our economy con-
stantly ignore. Respectfully-LEO
ARD KENFIELD, Great Falls.
The people's voice., 1955-09-23

The traffic death rate has declined
from 1859 per 10000 registered We
hicles in 1941 to Gil in 1854.
The people's voice., 1955-09-23

In the very near future THE VOICE
will carry chart prepared by gov
ernment sources, showing the very
great downstream benefits accruing
to Montana Power Company because
of stream flow regulation brought
about by Canyon Ferry Danny
EDITOR
Smyrna times., 1955-09-22

stating you were in class all
month. VA is allowed up to 20
days, after receipt of that certif-
cation, to send your check.
Q-In my CT insurance policy,
1 have specified that payments be
made to my beneficiary in month
ly installments. If she wants,
would she have the right to ask
VA for a lump sum payment in
stead?
A-No. A beneficiary does not
have the right to elect lump sum
payment, if the veteran has speci-
fed payment on the installment
plan.
Q-What is the deadline for
getting the special Korean CT in
surance available to veterans with
service-connected disabilities
A-Korea veterans must apply
and pay their first premium with
in one year from the date that
VA determines their disabilities
are service-connected.
Q-I was disabled while serving
in the WAC during World War II,
Smyrna times., 1955-09-22

port it, you may find yourself
hard put, later on, to repay a
sizeable sum of money to the VA.
Q-I have a World War II CT
term insurance policy. Is it pos
sible to convert just part of it TO
a permanent plan, or must con-
vert all of it at once?
Aft you wish, you may con-
vert only part of your CT term
insurance to permanent insurance.
However, the insurance must be
converted in multiples of $500,
and the minimum amount that
may be converted is $1,000.
Ql plan to start school this
fall under the Korean CT Bill.
Would it be possible for me to
receive my CT allowance pay in
advance, before 1 start class?
A-No. Under the law, the al
lowances are paid some time af-
ter the end of each month of
training completed, and not be-
fore. Furthermore, after the end
of the month, you and your school
will have to sign certification
Smyrna times., 1955-09-22
QUESTIONS and ANSWERS

Q-I am taking Korean CT farm
training, and my monthly CT al
lowances so far have been reduc-
ed twice. Under the new law
calling for top allowance rates
for the first year, will VA make
retroactive adjustment, paying
me the difference between what
/ received so far and what would
have received under the new sys-
tenn?
A-Under the law, retroactive
adjustments will not be made.
But, beginning in October, your
monthly allowances will be refig-
ured under the new system. You
will receive the maximum allow
ance rate for the rest of your
first year in training, after which
your checks will be reduced at
four-month intervals.
Q-I am getting a VA pension,
and I recently inherited enough
money to push my yearly income
above the limit set for pensions.
Am I supposed to report this fact
to the VA?
Ayes. You should promptly
report your additional income, so
that VA can discontinue your pen
sion payments. If you do not re-