Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1954-06-13
laundering Victoria Falls Provides Gronc
Climax to Africu's Spectacular Scenes

behind. On the side Of the road
we see a rough sign with q
single word. Equator" Occa-
sionally, there's q European
house in farmland or q small
cluster of rondavelS, the round,
matched native huts.
On the mountain road it feels
like the top Of the world. Stretch
ing for many miles around are
blue hills. Alone on q hilltop a
ragged native boy herds his
sheep. Below on the hillside, an
old man collects long grass for
his rondavel. The only sound is
the baa-ing Of the sheep.
And that night, there is q
town again-the busting back
woods settlement of Ell Doret,
where the rambling old hotel has
a bar from which come the
strains of Good Night Irene" on
a scratchy gramophone. Two
Italian workmen are showing OF
their acquired talent at British
darts.
Another days drive takes us
into Uganda and the shores Of
Lake Victoria. Along the way we
pass native women walking like
Powers models with great baS-
kets on their heads, and native
men pedaling down the road on
shiny new bicycles. At Jinja,
we see the new hydroelectric
dam recently opened by Queen
Elizabeth II at the headwaters
of the Nile and pass a golf club
where the rule is that if the ball
falls into the footprints Of a
hippopotamus it's permissible to
lift 1t out. The countryside is
bright with the yellow of mimoSa
trees, with the red Of flame of
the forest" and with the blue Of
the jacaranda.
Rough It With Luxury
And at nightfall we arrive at
the Lake Victoria Hotel, with its
luxury suites, banquet rooms,
one-day laundry service, leather
and chrome bar. We are rough
ing 1t" some 600 miles inland.
Beyond the window is Lake Vic
toria, the second largest lake in
the world-rimmed with noun.
tains and dotted with green
islands.
From the great airport at En-
tebbe, Uganda, it's an easy few
hours flight to Zanzibar-an
island paradise east of Tangan-
yika in the Indian Ocean. Here,
the bearded sultan rides around
in a bright red car. White-robed
Arabs from the dhows, with sill
yer daggers at their belts, stalk
the narrow winding streets.
The rows of houses in these
streets are decorated with great
wooden doors studded with brass
spikes, said to be a deterrent to
war elephants. And they also
say the ghosts walk these twisted
streets at night-ghosts Of the
slaves buried for luck in the old
walls.
In the countryside, the visitor
catches the aroma of cloves, for
this is the exotic spice island Of
the Indian Ocean. AS far as this
visitor was concerned, it was
worth the trip to Africa just to
see Zanzibar.
The ship (rejoined at Dar-es-
Salaam) sailed on to Beira.
Mozambique's busy port, where
q fight over the undeveloped
GorongoSa Game Reserve con-
WINGED me that the best way to
see game is from q low-hying
small plane. From less than 100
feet. we watched q family Of
elephants bathing in q stream,
saw hippopotami by the score,
laughed at balloons trying to
Jump up at us and-as q grand
climax-watched q pair Of fe-
male lions stalking q herd OF
zebra for lunch. Two great
named male lions were also
watching the performance.
After the ports Of Mozam-
bique, the ship reached the