davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1953-06-24

it. This time we would not turn
back.
It would be a grim night.
The site was dangerous and the
ground unstable. Under the
action of the wind the snow slid
down the length of the slope
and piled up above our shelter
We hoped it would not weigh too
much on the tent.
Minds Worked Slowly.
{ The pitons driven into the
limestone, the axes driven right
into the snow, gave us only moral
support and we had no illusions.
We said nothing, but we both
feared that the edge of the plat
form would collapse and carry
the tent away.
Our minds worked slowly dur
ing this last night before the
final assault. I had great diff
Guilty in concentrating and I
couldn't get up an interest in
anything. Conversation Ian
guished.
With great effort, and only be-
cause we urged each other on.
we managed to make some tea
Evening star., 1953-06-24

managed to carry on for five
minutes without break.
An hour later the shelf was
ready: it was close to the rib and
we were able to anchor the tent
to the two pitons which Lachenal
drove into cracks in the rock.
I had a brief conversation with
Ang-Tharkey in pidgin- English.
Tomorrow morning Lachenal
Sahib and Bara Sahib go to the
summit of Annapurna."
Eyes. sir"
"You are the Sirdar and the
most experienced Of all the Sher-
pas. I should be very glad if you
will come with us"
Thank you, sir"
I'VE must have the victory to-
gether. Will you Gomez"
His Feet Freezing.
At that moment I felt it my
duty to take into consideration
the Sherpas' very understand
able feelings. After a pause Ang-
Tharkey replied. He was CRATE
full for the choice of action I had
given him, but he held back:
THANK you, very much. Bara
Sahib, but my feet are begin
ming to freeze :"
II see."
". =. and I prefer to go down
to Camp w."
"Of course, Ang- -Tharkey, it's
as you like. In that case go
down at once as it is late"
THANK you, sir"
In a second their sacks were
packed and, just as they were
setting of. they turned around
and I could guess their anxiety
at leaving us alone.
"Salaan, sir. Good luck!"
"Salaam-and be CAREFUL"
They Go Back.
A few minutes later two black
dots were on their way down
the slope we had just come up.
How strangely their minds
worked! Here were these men
proverbial for their trustworthi-
ness and devotion, who quite
certainly enjoyed going high on
the mountains; and yet, when on
the point Of reaping the victory
from their labors. they prudent
ly held back. But don't doubt
that our attitude struck them as
even more strange.
Not a word did Lachenal and
I speak. Our silence had some
thing heavy and obsessive about
Evening star., 1953-06-24
Great Storm HowIs About Tent at A 500 Feet
On Niqht Before Final Dash for Peak

on the stove and swallow our
pills with military discipline. It
was impossible to get any food
down at all.
A fierce wind sprang up and
the nylon fabric of the tent
tapped noisily. Several times
we feared that the wind would
blow the tent away, and at each
gust we clung to the poles as a
drowning man clings to plank.
A Night of Terror. !.
It began to snow; the storm
howled and moaned around us.
The air was fraught with terror,
and in the end we became ter
rlfied too.
Every movement demanded a
tremendous effort Of will. There
was no question of undressing.
Pushing our boots to the bottom
Of our wonderful sleeping bags,
we tucked ourselves in.
Lachenal settled himself on
the outer side of the tent while
Icurled up against the slope. It
wasn't pleasant for either of us.
Lachenal, on the edge Of the pre-
carious platform, felt as though
he were slipping of into space,
while was threatened with suf-
location under the snow which
slid down and piled up persist
emily on the roof of the tent.
"It's made of nylon, and it's
elastic" / tried to reassure Lach-
email, otherwise the fabric would
give way"
What a night! Lachenal slid
farther and farther toward the
edge, and felt more and more
suffocated. We looked at the
time repeatedly.
Could Not Breathe.
The situation was beginning
to be alarming. I could no longer
breathe. The weight of the snow
was literally crushing me. Like a
boxer on guard, held both arms
to my chest and so made a small
space which allowed me to ex-
pand my lungs.
The noise of the wind was ear
splitting, and every onslaught was
accompanied by a high-pitched
whistling. The tent poles bent
over dangerously, while with the
strength of desperation we tried
Evening star., 1953-06-24
BxI. A. o.Learv

The White House was reported
today to be counting on the
Senate to avoid any cuts IN the
$5.3 billion foreign aid bill on
the eve of the July 8 Big Three
conferepce at Bermuda on the
world situation.
The Senate probably will pass
the foreign aid authorization be-
fore the Bermuda meeting, but
leaders say there are no present
indications of cuts in these CELL
ing figures.
On the contrary. the Senate
may strengthen the Presidents
position at Bermuda by liberal
izing the bill to give him more
discretion in determining how
much of the total authorized
should be allocated to different
parts of the world as changing
conditions dictate.
Senate leaders were careful to
point out. however. that the
authorization figures are only
ceilings which may be trimmed
down when the appropriation
committees make the final de-
cision on how much to appro-
pirate. The congressional work
load is such, however, that the
Senate Appropriations Commit
tee will not fix the final foreign
aid figures until late in July
after the Bermuda talks.
The foreign aid bill was ex-
pected to be discussed at this
mornings meeting of congress
Sional leaders at the White
House. The leaders will have an
opportunity to get the Presi-
Evening star., 1953-06-24
Glossary Of Terms
Used by Climbers

TRAvERSE-To cross mountoin, slope
horizontally.
CRAMPoNS-Metol frames with spikes,
fitting the soles Of the shoes. for use
on hoFd snow or ice.
PlToN-A !metoI spike with ring in
the heod, which con be driven into
rock or ice.
Evening star., 1953-06-24
His Heart Pounds.

With our axes we made a level
space. In order to accomplish
this on such a steep slope we had
to move great quantities of snow.
Every 80 seconds I had to rest: I
felt as though I were suffocating.
my breathing was out of control,
and my heart pounding away.
Yet the Sherpas, who were not in
such good shape as we were,
Evening star., 1953-06-24
Dimes for Tornudo Area

WORCESTER, Mass, June ~
R.-A Dimes for Worcester"
campaign to aid victims Of the
June 8 Central Massachusetts,
tornado will get underway to.
morrow and end July 4 in Mas
sachusetts cities which have
parking meters. Because none
Of the parking meters registers
dimes. all such coins dropped
into the meters will be turned
over to the Central Massachu-
sets Disaster Relief Committee.
Evening star., 1953-06-24
AdmiroIs Shifted

LONDON, June "a P).-Vice
Admiral John F. Stevens has
been appointed commander in
chief, America and West Indies
station, the British Admiralty
said yesterday. Admiral Stevens
succeeds Vice Admiral Sir Will
liam G. Andrewes.
Evening star., 1953-06-24
Socialists Join lbunez

SANTIAGO, Chile, June "a (P).
The Popular Socialist Party
has decided to re-enter the gov
ernment of Gen. Carlos Ibanez
and has been assigned three
cabinet portfolios, a reliable
source said yesterday.
Evening star., 1953-06-24

loads and made up our sacks. We
were Shivering and could not
leave our Serac quick enough.
Leaving one tent where it was.
we set out; the other was for
Camp v.
A traverse to the left across
the Sickle glacier enabled us to
avoid an area Of broken-up
seracs. In this way we reached
the base of a wide valley of large,
steep snow fields with few OBJ
StacleS in the way.
Nobody said anything-every
one of us was tense with effort,
and the loads weighed us down.
We thought of what lay ahead.
For me, the main question was
the monsoon: it was now June 2,
and we could not reasonably
hope for more than four days
of fine weather. That would just
give us time, but there was not
a moment to lose.
A Bit of Candy.
Now that we had only this
great snow field before us, we
held the advantage: there were
no technical obstacles-or at
least hardly any. Not for single
moment did either Lachenal or
myself entertain the slightest
doubt about our victory.
We stopped frequently and
ate bit of candy or nougat, for
which we always had a great
craving.
The jagged ice ridge at the
summit produced a curious ef-
fect-a Snow-laden wind blew
through it as if through the teeth
of a comb. Mist struggled right
across the sky over our heads.
One of the buttresses of Anna
purna lowered above us, in rose
red rock-it was the shape of a
birds beak. A thin rib of rock
il the shape of a spearhead ran
up to it.
With dogged perseverance,
Lachenal and I took turns in
making the trail. The two Sher-.
pas got terribly winded and we
kept stopping to regain our
breath.
Two or three times we made
long traverSes to avoid the seracs
and one particularly long Gre
vase. Often we sank in the snow
and each step seemed an eternity.
Although we progressed upward,
the rib always appeared to re-
main just as far off.
Enough to take the heart out
Of you." complained Lachenal.
Snow Becomes Firmer.
Gradually the difficulties les
eened. the snow became f1rmer
and we did not sink so far. We
had the feeling that We were
climbing on an enormous roof;
the slope was constant, and,
though it was at an angle of
about 40 degrees we were able
to crampon up it.
Every 10 yards we halted, in
cold so intense that our feet
grew numb. But we could hot
afford any unnecessary delay:
"On to Camp VI" became for us
a kind of refrain. The going be-
came terribly exhausting, for the
surface crust of the snow broke
through beneath our crampons
and again we sank in at each
step.
With a final squirt Of energy
We gained the rib of rock.
What disappointment! Those
fine. clear-colored rocks were
plaStered with ice-there were no
ledges. no holds. We should have
to pitch camp right on the slope.
The Sherpas joined us: we
were at 24,600 feet and the
height laid them out completely.
They couldn't speak a word and
made signs that their heads were
hurting. But we all had to set
to work.
His Heart Pounds.
With our axes we made level
space. In order to accomplish
this on such a steep slope we had
to move great quantities of snow.
Every 80 seconds had to rest: !
felt as though I were Suffocating,
my breathing was out of control,
and my heart pounding away.
Yet the Sherpas, who were not in
such good shape as we were,
Evening star., 1953-06-24

to hold them In place. Why the
tent was not blown down, I don't
know. Our very worst Alpine
bivouacs were nothing compared
with this unequal and exhaust
ing struggle.
We were worn out and utterly
weary, but the storm saw to it
that we were kept wide awake.
TOMORROW-The Third of
June. After an ag0nizing strug-
gle, Herzog and Lachenal reach
the summit of Annapurna and
Herz0g has an accident which is
to have dire results.
(From the book "Annapurna." by Maurice
Heroes, Copyright, 1852, by E. p. Dutton
g. Co., Inc. Distributed BY the REGISTER
Nd Pih
Evening star., 1953-06-24
ADVERTISEMENT.
Itchy Pimples
Kill Romance

Many shattered romances may
be traced directly to scratching Of
skin blemishes. Why tolerate Itch
ing of pimples, eczema, angry red
blotches and other irritations when
you can get fast relief with sooth-
ing Peterson's Ointment? 45c all
druggists. One application delights
or money refunded. Also for tired
cracked feet.
Evening star., 1953-06-24
Annopurno:
By Maurice Herzog
CHAPTER II
The Assault

When dawn came at Camp "
! poked my head anxiously
through the opening Of the tent:
the sun was rising and it was
fine and cold. 1t looked as if the
monsoon would not arrive that
day and I felt much relieved,
for the latest news had worried
me. We were embarked upon a
race against time.
AS soon as Ang-Tharkey and
Sarki arrived we shared out the
AFTER SPENDING three days and nights
resting at Comp u while the Others
carried equipment ond supplies to
Comps III and w higher on the
greet HimoIOyon mountoin Of Anno-
purno, Maurice heTzOs. IeodeT Of the
expedition. returned to Comp ~. As
this instolIment begins, he and Louis
loehenol ore obout to start out to
estoblish Comp v. from which the
final assault on the summit will be
mode.
Evening star., 1953-07-15
Exclusively Yours 's'7 '->-s
Chief Justice Vnson Joins Earnest Bridge Playing Circle
At Joseph Doves Adirondack Mountain Comp Topridqe'

draw the peoples Of the United
States and Britain together,
the So million cost was but a
drop in the bucket compared
to what some large American
firms spend in advertising an
nually.
In view of the Mccarthy
Matthews episode, Gwen Ca
fritz decided things had gone
too far to the right and she
made a point of inviting a
couple of well-known liberals,
Herb Block, political cartoon
ist. and Michael Straight of
the New Republic. to drop by
Sunday. Others asked to sip
hospitality on the terrace were
Senator and Mrs. Clinton An
derson-jubilant over becom-
ing grandparents; Senator and
Mrs. Spessard Holland, former
Senator and Mrs. Claude Pep
per and Representative and
Mrs. Samuel Yorty. Gwen flies
off Tuesday to attend a garden
party at Buckingham Palace
on the 23d and thence will
Evening star., 1953-07-15

Joe Davies is having a house
party up at Topridge. the
Davies Adirondacks Camp.
No. guest at the current
gathering. which is composed
of some Of the Capitals most
earnest bridge players, is Chief
Justice Fred VinSon which
means that President Eisen-
hover is currently minus one
Of his favorite bridge partners.
Emily and Ed Foley left yes
terday for the same deStina-
ton and also Luvie Pearson.
Drew Pearson will 60 up to-
morrow for q long week end
but no bridge.
Fran Rust checked back in
to town yesterday from Top
ridge and Mr.. Davies daugh-
ter, Rahel Fitch, has been up
there a week and will stay
until the Goth.
The Capitals al fresco sea-
son is going strong. There's
an outdoor nightly.
The Paul Gore -Boothes of
the British Embassy had an
outdoor supper the other eve
ming for a visiting BritiSher
of the United Kingdoms
Treasury Department, Rich
ard Miles. The latter had just
completed a tour of the United
States where he suspected in
advance that he might re-
ceive a brickbat or two on &C
count of such differences as
the British recognition of
Communist China, etc. But
on the contrary he met up
with only warmhearted hos
pitality and an America still
aglow over the coronation.
That interest in the latter
should be so deep and wide
spread even in sections of the
country not notably pro-
British surprised him. AS
some one pointed out even if
the coronation had been held
for no other reason than to
Evening star., 1953-07-15
BETTY BEALE

continue a tour Of the Cont.
nent.
Count and Countess Goretti
de'Flamini had an al fresco
supper the other evening for
Rear Admiral and Mrs. John
Roper who were passing
through town en- route to Italy.
Formerly chief of Navy Per-
sonnel, Admiral Roper has just
been retired after a two-year
duty in Coronado. The RoperS
liked 1t so well out there, how
ever, that they are going to
settle there when they get
back from Europe. italian
Counselor Egidio Ortona will
head for Italy. too. on the 22d.
Mr.. and Mrs. Allan A. Zoll
have bought one of Washing
tons handsomest dwellings.
the home of the late wealthy
lumberman, William Mcclellan
Ritter. Long on the real estate
market, the formal white
house, located at 1928 Massa-
chusetts avenue on Sheridan
Circle, was sold by Mrs. Kath-
leen Fell of the Natalie Phillips
firm to the recently wed
couple. The Turkish Embassy
also put in a bid for it. Mrs.
Ritter now makes her home
at $500 Massachusetts, avenue.
Considerable interest is de-
rived from the fact that Mr..
Zoll is moving to Washington.
Known to be active in several
organizations in the past, he
has also been executive vice
president Of the National
Council for American Educa-
tion which has distributed
pamphlets attacking public
school curriculums and calling
progressive education the root
of all the trouble. The National
Education Association has de-
scribed Mr.. Zoll as one Of the
leading enemies of public
schools.
Evening star., 1953-07-15
.Attuche Host
At Dinner

Mr.. Carlo Christensen, cultural
attache of the Danish Embassy
entertained at dinner at Nor
mandy Farm last evening. Pres
ent at the party were Mr.. Viii
helm Lauritzen, Danish architect
here to consult with the Ambas-
Sador concerning the new Royal
Danish Embassy; Mr.. Nils Nor
lund, Danish journalist, and Mrs.
Norlund, and Miss Inga Chris
tensen, daughter of the host.
Mr.. Christensen's new book
"The First Dane in New York, "
has just been published. It is
dedicated to his late wife. Mrs.
Musse Christensen, and his
daughter. 1t may soon be trans
lated into English.
Evening star., 1953-07-15
The Devines
Return Home

DR.. and Mrs. John A. Devine,
jr., and their three children have
returned to their home in Mi
not, N. Dak., after short visit
with Mrs. Devine's mother, Mrs.
Marthena Harrison Williams.
DR.. and Mrs. Devine motored
to Washington from their West
ern home and were here for a
day or so with Mrs. Williams
on their way to Rehoboth Beach
where they spent Several weeks
with Mrs. Devine's sister, Mrs.
Paul H. Trenham, in her cot
tage there. Mrs. Williams joined
them for a fortnight.
Evening star., 1953-07-15
Miss SudIer
Is Engaged

Mr.. and Mrs. H. w. Sadler Of
University Park, announce the
engagement Of their daughter
Marion Jean to Mr.. Harry Hazel
hurst III, son of Mr.. and Mrs.
Harry Hazlehurst, jr., of Uni
versity Park.
Miss Sadler will be a senior at
the Maryland State Teachers
College at Towson, where she is
majoring in primary education.
Mr.. Hazlehurst, who is study
ing chemical engineering at
Pennsylvania State College, will
be graduated in June.
Evening star., 1953-07-15

ington in their plane for the
Schiffelers' parties.
Mrs. Robert Low Bacon COM
pleted the dinner company last
evening.
Admiral Radford and his aide.
Comdr j. H. Hedrick. are stay
ing at the Raleigh for a portion
of this week. The Admiral is
occupying the Leopold Stokow-
ski suite and until a decision is
made as to the quarters the
Radfords will occupy in Wash
ington, the new Chairman of
the Joint Chiefs of Staff will
make his headquarters at the
hotel.
Another Novy Party
United States Naval officers
predominated at the party given
early last evening by the retir-
ing Naval Attache of the Greek
Embassy and Nine. Panayoto-
poulos. Capt. and Nine. Panay-
otopouloS entertained about $50
guests in the Officers Club of
the Naval Medical Center in Be-
thesda to introduce their sue
cessorS, Capt. Alexander Rhallis
and Nine. Rhallis.
Capt. and Nine. Panayoto-
poulos will leave Washington
for their homeland late this
month and the former will re-
turn to sea duty. Capt. and
Nine. Rhallis are staying at the
Fairfax until the Panayotopou-
los leave when they will move
into the latter's home at lit Ok
ford street in Chevy Chase, Md.
The company yesterday also
included naval attaches of other
diplomatic missions and, of
course, other members Of the
Greek Embassy staff.
U. S. officioI Guest
Undersecretary of Welfare
and Mrs. Nelson Rockefeller
were honor guests of Bolivian
Ambassador Victor Andrade,
who entertained at dinner in his
handsome Embassy on Massa-
chuSettS avenue. Mr.. Rookie
feller had close contact with the
diplomatic representatives from
South and Central America
when he was Director of Inter-
American Affairs for the State
Department some years ago. It
was during that time that Am
basSador Andrade served a pre-
vious tour of duty as chief of
the mission.
Guests at the dinner included
Mexican Ambassador and Sonora
de Tello, Mexican Ambassador
to the Organization of American
States and Sonora de Quin-
tanilla, Brazilian Ambassador
Walther Moreira Sales, Vene-
zuelan Ambassador Cesar Con-
zalez and Sonora Anita de Bena-
vides of the OAS.
Ambassador Quintanilla has
been in Washington most of his
later years in the diplomatic
corps. He came to the Mexican
Embassy as secretary, then coun-
selor and minister before being
aaCe Ambassador to the OAS.
>sT,.1 has known his host and the
SonW guests through the years.
Evening star., 1953-07-15
Miss, Janet Obi
Becomes Bride

Miss Janet Mercer Oil, daugh-
ter of Mr.. and Mrs. E. Boyd Oil
of Youngstown, Ohio. was mar
ried on July II to Mr.. Paul Nor
ton Wigton, son of Mrs. Charles
Wigton of Linesville. Pa, and
the late Mr.. Wigton. The cere-
mony was performed in the
Metropolitan Memorial Meth
odiSt Church by the Rev. Edward
Gardiner Latch.
A wedding dinner was given
after the ceremony.
Mrs. Wigton is a niece of Mrs.
Kathryn Mercer Lindsey and
Miss Henrietta E. Mercer of this
city.
Evening star., 1953-07-15
Miss MariIvn McMurrav.


Miss Marilyn Murray,
daughter of Col. and Mrs. Paul
H. McMurray of Washington,
became the bride recently of
1t. c. Lyle Rishell, son of Mrs.
B. M. Rishell of Alexandria, Pa,
at a ceremony in the Mount
Vernon Place Methodist Church.
DR.. Albert P. Shirley oficiated.
The bride is a graduate of
Westhampton College, Univer-
Sity of Richmond. Her father
is Commissioner of the United
States Court of Claims.
1t. Rishell is assigned to the
Foreign Liaison Office of the De-
partment of the Army and is
presently attending the Univer-
sity of Maryland. He served
with the 25th Infantry Division
in Korea.
Evening star., 1953-07-15
President Is Host
To Foreign Guests
French and British Officials
Leaving; Others Entertain
Society News
By Katherine M. Brooks

President Eisenhower was host
at luncheon yesterday, enter
tanning in the White House for
French Foreign Minister Georges
Bidault and acting British For
eign Minister the Marques of
Salisbury.
Lord Salisbury and the three
officials who came with him left
late last evening after stag din
ner which the British Ambassa-
dor Sir Roger MakinS gave in
his honor. French Minister and
Nine. Bidault and their party
will not leave until tomorrow
morning.
Guests Of the Chief Executive
at luncheon yesterday were, in
addition to the Foreign Minis
ters. French Ambassador Henri
Bonnet, British Ambassador
Makins. Mr.. Roland de Margerie
and Mr.. Pierre Louis Falaize, Sir
Frank Roberts and Gen. Sir
Brian Robertson.
Other Luncheon Guests
State Secretary John Foster
Dulles, who was the third mem
ber in the conferences for which
the visitors came, was at the
luncheon. Senator Alexander
Wiley, chairman of the Foreign
Relations Committee, was there
and others were the ranking mi
nority member of that commit
tee, Senator Walter F. George.
Senator William F. Knowland of
the Foreign Relations Committee
and Senator Lyndon B. johnson
of the Armed Services Committee
were others present from the
Upper House of Congress. Also
from the legislative branch of the
Government there were the
chairman of the Foreign Af-
fairs Committee, Representative
Robert B. Chiperf1eld, and the
former chairman, Representative
James P. Richards.
United States Ambassadors to
France and England, Winthrop
w. Aldrich and C. Douglas Dillon,
were in the company and also
Undersecretary of State Walter
Bedell Smith, Assistant Secretary
Livingston T. Merchant, and
Counselor of the State Depart
ment Douglas Macarthur II.
United States Ambassador
Aldrich will go to New York today
for a brief stay preparatory to
returning to his POST in London.
Ambassador Dillon left today
for Paris.
Incoming Officer Feted
The newly appointed chair
man of the Joint Chiefs of Staff,
Admiral Arthur j. Radford, was
the guest in whose honor Col.
and Mrs. Curt C. Schiffeler en-
tertained at dinner last evening.
The party was given in their
studio on the roof of the Hotel
Raleigh and the ranking guests
were Dominican Ambassador and
Sonora de Thomen.
Others who dined under the
stars with the incoming cGcial
were Costa Rican Ambap~a dor
and Sonora de Oreamunc ana
Spanish Ambassador and Seocra
de Lequerica.
Mr.. and Mrs. Lorenz Iverseu
came to Washington from Pitts
burgh in their plane for the
dinner and returned in time for
luncheon today in their own
home. Mr.. Iversen is an official
of the Mesta Machine Co. of
Pittsburgh and he and his wife
make frequent trips to Wash
Evening star., 1953-07-15
Mrs. Reed Visits Dyers at Newport

Mrs. Stanley F. Reed, jr..
daughter-in-law of Supreme
Court Justice and Mrs. Reed, is
with her parents. Mr.. and Mrs.
w. Gurnee Dyer, in Newport.
Mrs. Reed and her sister, Mrs.
Daisy Dyer O'Donnell went there
to be with the Dyers for their
silver wedding Saturday.
Mr.. and Mrs. Dyer omitted