Evening star., 1953-07-15
Fashion
Notes
CONTINUED From Page BID

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surprises and McCardell uses
white kidskin to pipe several of
her new designs. SHAPE is the
keynote Of nearly all the collec-
tions and Claire McCardell sees
to it that the word gets a new
fashion meaning in necklineS,
capes. stoleS and other designing
tricks. FaWn shades are strong
here, boned cummerbunds pro-
vidipg waiStlineS that really stay
put, and dresses whose waist
lines are determined by the fig
ures wearing them because the
belt gives the indentation, are
just a few McCardell points of
view that help the new season
along.
Miss McCardell has gone into
the Junk business" jewelry that
is, with ropy necklaces and elas-
ticized dog collars that she her
self has designed.
Her fleece coats with their
high v seams in the front and
deep v in the back are reminis-
cent Of empire styling and when
the cardigan necklines are filled
in the Golf blouses she has con-
cocted, they look quite unlike
other coats in the market. The
"town and country" look typi-
fed in McCardell's clothes is ap-
parently something the entire
dress market Is concentrating on
this season.
Gently tailored clothes are IN
the majority. New coatings pos
sess lustrous sheens and less Of
the bulky, bubbly- type fabrics.
''Long hairs" have been clipped
and lustre tones are providing
news. Fleeces, cashmeres, and
tweeds all get the color treat
ment and colors such as beige
that one seldom associates with
fall are to be seen.
Harvey BERN
SO many Of the new fashions
possess high riding collars, jabots
and scarfs that they must be
mentioned. Fur trims are another
important fall and winter touch
that Is to be noted. And still
another great trend is evidenced
in the great use Of velvet-for
coats. cocktail suits, and dresses.
The Harvey Berlin collection
by Karen Stark, brought this out
In a number of cocktail time and
evening clothes. Sedate is prob
ably the word to describe so
many of the fascinating Shirt
waist-type dresses done up in
rich fabrics but their look can |
best be described only in that
overworked word elegant" De-
mure pretty trimmings Of gros-
grain, satin, or even when minus
any trimming, velvet looks good
for fall. A Elizabethan red trio
of dresses ranging from one with
a built-in foundation in the skirt
that belled out, to a slim sheath
showed just how effective the
rich fabric can be when it is in a
brilliant color. A platinum
chantilly lace short evening
gown pointed toward a trend
that the covered up" look for
evening is one to keep an eye on.
In the BERN collection we also
like the charming oatmeal Lesur
tweed dress with the winter
white" pique edging on the COL
lar and cuffs. The high-bosomed
empire wasted silhouettes, the
dresses with slim fronts and back
interest and the flannel walk
ing dresses" with embroidery on
them giving the fabric a texture
undreamed of before, also wool
and silk are combined for some
dresses and q real dressmaker
approach to tailored classics is
seen in sweater jersey tops with
full tweed skirts. The tops are
moulded to the figure and
trimmed with matching tweed.
Something that should delight
any number of women this fall
and winter are the numerous
two-piece designs that are in
geniously allowed to stay to-
gether. A number of hooks with
interlocking devices or fasten-
ings do away with the problem
of the tops that just won't stay
tucked in.