Evening star., 1952-06-27
Designers New Size Theory
May RevoIutionize Fashion

he likes women to look. First Of
all. taste must be considered.
x marks the spot of fashion for a
number of Cassini's designs. The
criss-cross motif is used for many
high rising waiStline ideas. He
likes the "covered-up" look with
magnificent and unexpected
decolletages coupled with the
long sleeves for evening. He
has so much originality coming
through in his collection that it
is hard to say whether he does
better by a career girls dress in
slick. slim, black wool with a
white satin tie added for evenings
out; the black crepe cocktail dress
with the Egyptian neckline,
or the white peau de sole evening
dress with deep red tiny bolero
jacket.
At Monte Sano and Purzan two
Silhouettes emerge. One the big
Sleeved mandarin tubular coat
and the fitted silhouette. Empire
lines are spotted in many coats
here. At Monte Sano's they are
showing a new furlike coating
called "ermine cloth" which is
quite sensational. This house
spearheads many a new drive in
fabric ideas. Evening coat fash
ions are re-emerging and a red
duvetyn cape lined in matching
taffeta was exceptionally ham
some. Another coat silhouette
that is strong in the collections
is reminiscent Of the coachman's.
guardsman's, or call it officers
coat if you like-but that's the
general line.
The little black crepe" never
had a better friend than Netti
RoSenstein who never let it get
out Of her collections. This sea-
son is no exception. What is ex-
ceptional is that she shows a great
deal of color in her woolen dresses
and coats. The three-piece trend
is noted here in a thigh-length
coat with two-piece dress or a
blouse and skirt. Cutaway jackets
are seen here. too, and the skirts
are high-riding in their waist
treatments. She launches q new
color in red mahogany. Full
Skirted taffeta dresses dolman
sleeves velvet treated like
wool in a coat glittering
touches on coats, suits or dresses
:. and draped decolletages
plus handbags of black suede
With black patent edgings all
are RoSenstein's this coming sea-
son. >.
Hattie Carnegie's suits are per-
lection plus. This season she
;eams some charming suits Of
weed with velvet touches. Re-
7erSibles in the coat field, par
,icularly when fur lined. give a
woman two coats. Miss Carnegie
carries this theme right into her
millinery, too. Blues are always
strong at this house and this
season a lovely moss green shade
S used quite a bit. Though her
suit skirts look straight, close in
'pection reveals hidden pleat, a
'lever fold. or an interlocking
;eam, or a gored skirt. Brown is
favorite shade and particular
'ne butternut is very
pretty. Red is another popular
hade for fall. The short
acket is Carnegie signature and
lew "Shavetail" and bantam"
ackets worn over dresses give
louble meaning to a costume.
Dur pet Of the collection was the
ong evening coat of brown velvet
With elbow-length cuffs of silver
OK worn over column evening
reSS OF white. Another white
attn cardigan worn with a short
ormal had silver and bead en-
roidery on it for a formal, yet
asual, appearance.
Sweater tops dot a number of
ne Elfred-Fox designs and bark
'ack to the MILDLY line talked
bout and seen in not too much
bundance this week. One pure
ashmere sweater topped a won
lerful dress design with a skirt
i black silk taffeta.
At Jane Derby's the "little boy"
ook is apparent in many Of the
hort, tight. little jackets and the
oft collars and sashed waists.
1uch black here easy skirts
:. the covered-up look and
he instep length for evening
lothes to better emphasize the
'retty feet and shoes of a woman.
ike Carnegie, Miss Derby fire.
uently surprises you with a dress
hat looks covered up in the front
nd on turning one notes a deep
cut. Many of her dresses are
piked with new metal link belt
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