The Key West citizen., 1952-05-27

done is the true heart of the home,
one wall ablaze with a battery of
tin-lined pots to prove the family'S
generosity of appetite; pots, pans
and gravy-catchers, all hanging
copper side out to reflect the fire
and sun in golden glints. punches
of herbs are thrust handy in smoke
blackened rafters, there are dan
Cling braids of garlic and onions,
strings of pepper and dried mush-
rooms, with winking demijohns of
wine both red and white brighten
ing dark corners. :"
The Italian recipes include every
thing from the old spaghetti with
tomato sauce, to some delectable
known as little cooked hats. Then
there is pumpkin soup and ravioli,
eel with macaroni, chicken a la
marengo and more than hundred
others, to say nothing of several
pages on the selection of Italian
wines.
Any cook planning to tangle with
these dishes should come armed
with olive oil, garlic, parmesan
cheese, tomato paste, salted an
choives and dried mushrooms.
There are more egg dishes In
the Spanish cuisine than in all the
others put together. There are eggs
in potatoes, eggs in burnt butter,
eggs with onion sauce and eggs To
ledo style. AS the authors say ". .
when a Spaniard is parted from his
eggs his whole spirit sags, so on a
trip abroad he will first learn the
foreign word for egg, and in an
emergency, whether in Paris or
Berlin, he will draw a painstaking
picture OF the henfruit to explain
to the waiter exactly what he
wants, for this is his esperanto OF
lunching."
Many of the other Spanish reel.
pes included in the book ar quite
similar to Cuban inspired Key West
dishes. Their shrimp patties anc
Spanish stew and chicken fricasee
are almost exactly the same. Blu
there are strange ones too, which
are not found on the keys like white
petticoat pies, quilted caulifower,
gypsy'S embrace and puffs of wind.
The bulk Of the Portuguese reci-
pes are fiShy. AS the author points
out, the Portuguese knows his fish
and wine the way the Britisher
knows his fish and chips. His cook
ing is as marine as that Of Scan
danavia. He SubsistS on lobster
and fish roe. oysters, shrimp and
whitebait. A fayorite national dish
Is bouquet do mar, which is a
seafood cornucopia crammed with
"musSelS. oct0pi. ray, squid, eel.
crabs, cod and any other foolish
fish that swims close enough to the
craggy coast to be caught"
Here is the authors picturesque
description Of the flshwives Of Lis.
bon.
The flShwIyes of Lisbon are
famous as the herring women Of
Scotland, and as strong smelling
WaggaSh mermalds ashore. they
get themselves up gaudily in fat
bonnets sometimes trimmed with
sea shells. anem0nes. siarflsh. Co
raj or seaweed. always pictures,
que, from acid green shoulder
shawl 70 colorful sea ~e,ted skirt.
They lug around great baskets Of
dripping whitehall OF sardlnes, 90
ha~king them up and down The re-
Sidentl2l hills setting up raucogs
saTen cries and hurting oaths for
eaFesSes al one another "
Some Of tie fish recipes have IN
tx2sairg names f4ShwIfes Gew.
s4F1lne Ple. and shrimp and Ec1n-
der EayoEnalse Add three sayorIte
Portuguese dessert recipes des-
CREED are mascens' kisses. -oak 8
ss*a~1s arc Slghs q uan-
IAe section &C French cookery Is
larger tGan zay oF Ehe o<Aers, And
certainly 1he ar as eatGk we4 is
pgooA by understood better BY the
fge1ca JA4z by any okheg 24tA1a
- a@e1ce Il tbs Is co leG1s al
osex tAs @or54 He eat able { aess
aF IL carre &ne cesar rs@s raEzg