Evening star., 1951-01-12

eoot costume in beige and
coffee tones. The beige wool
dress is topped with q loose
coffee wool fastening with
bone buttons.
stem-like are so constructed as
to afford enough room for them
to hop iE and out Of taxis with
out saying darn. there goes that
hem again" This season she
uses q great many prints. suits
with little ceDcs stole, or pelerine.
Halter dresses are extensively
used in all collections with the
design interest usually being con-
centrated in the toppings. Adele
Simpson has great many halter
fashions done up in lady-like and
still interesting versions. One
ball-fringed triangle topping on
halter-backed blue taffeta dress
could be worn with or without the
jacket top, too.
jacques Faiths collection for
Joseph Halpert has, naturally,
French look to it. The dinner
dresses with their tube skirts and
rich, elegant colorings are very.
dramatic. Tunics flare over many
designs this season, and shaped
self belts also star in the dra-
matization. Silk organdie is a
fabric that keeps cropping up,
and jacques Faiths pale amber all
silk organdie trimmed with silk
taffeta and possessing push-up
sleeves, cross-over collar and a
front apron over the skirt plus a
shaped patent leather BELTS q
real joy to see over any dinner
table.
The sleevelessness that is ramp
ant is we'll illustrated by a pink
orchid silk honan dress with an
open neck. wide rever collar and
a sheath skirt with front over.
skirt.
Suit jackets are quite q bit
longer than they have been, but
the simple suit is by and large to
be seen in a shorter jacket version.
Monte-Sano and Pruzan's silk
suits of satin faille, and a worsted
silk rib are good-looking. From
this house the Eton jacket, how
ever. has gotten longer and is
headline making. Also, the all.
pleated navy button-down-the-
front coat, and the faille and silk
coat dresses that American women
have accepted literally as coats
and dresses.
The fabric story is told elo-
quently by Jane Derby who mas
terfully uses pure silks, silk gauze,
Italian silks, sheer woolens. and
imported linens as the basis Of
her fashion conversation for the
approaching season. The bare back
is more evident than the barred
bosom. Feminine fashion tricks
of petticoats, aprons that will
never see a kitchen. and lots of
tiny lace and insertions plus nicely
rounded shoulderlines, fullish
skirts, and a great deal of grace
are Derby signatures.
Sportswear feels the designers
lilt when spring and summer are
thought of. Claire McCardell,
whose designs are so clearly hers
and no one elses, are newsmaking
in their briefness of cut, where
bathing suits are concerned, and
in their use of the fabrics that
Miss McCardell on many an oc-
casion has seen f1t to design her.
self. The McCardell shirts are
bright spots with perky bows,
white fabrics, and shirt sleeves
that can be rolled up to the de-
sired length. Handkerchief points
on many of her designs designate
them quickly as McCardell's.. A
relatively new fabric delight, cot
ton georgette, is used by her in
a sleeveless full-skirted silhouette .
with criss-cross draped bodice.
A new brushed wool jersey is used
for a very different looking suit
worn with white silk jacquard
blouse. Elastic is used to fit many
a strapless top. waistlines, or
shoulderlines. While her now
famous hooks and eyes are also
used as closings for a great many
suit jackets, and dresses. Our pet
fashion here was a reversible idea
for swimming. A brown worsted
jersey suit and little bolero worn
with it-both lined with a brown
and red printed challis.
Tina Lesser whose latest junket
was to South America, has in this
new collection a number Of in
spirational hangovers from her
tour of last year.
We're fascinated with her ''muu-
muu" probably pronouced Just
as its spelled which is the chemise
dress worn belted or unbelted by
women, from Honolulu to Bang
kok-and maybe soon all points
North, South, East and West here
in America. When done up in a
polished cotton (sateen for those
who grew up in another fashion
sra) with a satin embroidered