Evening star., 1951-05-21

tions of Chinese was to own a
business, but in the new genera
tion approaching it's majority are
many who are going to college
and training for the professions.
David Lee, son of the proprietor
OF the Hoy Sun Restaurant at
1908 Pennsylvania avenue NV,
has just finished an engineering
course at Massachusetts, Institute
lof Technology. a favorite institu-
ton among young Chinese Amer
leans. DR.. William Chin, a physi-
clan whose father is a laundry
man, is a resident at Gallinger
Hospital.
District Has Culinary Critics.
Washington has a number of
residents who consider themselves
connoisSeurs of the cuisine Chi
nois-or the Chinese culinary art.
Many of them are Army and Ma
rine Corps officers who have had
garrison duty at Peking or Tient-
sin. All have their favorite dishes
and favorite restaurants. The
restaurants in the block called
Chinatown, George Moy's Joy Inn.
China Inn, the China Doll, ct al,
are all Cantonese, featuring
dishes of Southern China. The
great majority of Chinese restau-
rants in the United States are
Cantonese. and those here follow
the pattern. However. at least
one Chinese establishment, the
Peking Restaurant at 5522 Con-
necticut avenue, features north
ern-style food.
The devotees of Chinese cook
ing seldom orders such relatively
simple dishes as chop suey or
chow mien. (There really is little
difference between the two except
that there are bean sprouts in
the chop suey, while the vege-
tables in the chow mein are cut
differently and laid over Chinese
fried noodles) He will order such
dishes as loong har kew lobster
Chinese Style), or WOO hip har
tJumbo shrimp with bacon). and
will almost always order four orr
i've different entrees.
Perhaps the most enthusiastic
fan on Chinese food was tele-
phone company executive who is
reliably reported to have eaten at
Ruby Foo's Den seven days a week
for five years. He finally got mar
ried, and his subsequent dietary
fate remains unknown.
Colony Began Around 1880.
The Chinese colony in Wash
ington started about 1880. The
writer of The Star article in 1904
noted there had not been a crime
OF violence in Chinatown since itsI
start. And that was when Chinese
wore queues. and "hatchet men"
OF the warning tongs were sup
posed to carry their weapons hid
den in their silken sleeves.
But in the 1s2os the tong wars
disturbed Washington's China
town along with those in other
cities. On one occasion gunner
invaded the old Hip Sing head
quarters at 325 Pennsylvania ave-
nue. NV. and shot four men, two
OF them fatally. No Chinese mur-
DER was ever solved. because no
one would tell the police anything
The tongs then achieved meas
ure OF extraterritoriality by hold
ing their own courts and sentence
ing offenders to pay fines or even
suffer banishment. The proceed
mgs were secret-and effective
Tong wars have long been a thing
OF the past in American cities.
Last night Mr.. Moy, the mayor"
OF Chinatown. showed no hesi-
fancy about taking this reporter
upstairs to see the On Leong
meeting room. He is one of the
three men who head the associa-
ton. Except for the Chinese dec
orations. it was set up like any
room used for meetings of a board
OF directors. The atmosphere of
Flu Manclau, of silent assassins
sinking through secret passage
ways on sinister errands OF death. |,
was utterly lacking.
When did you last have a trial
here?" I asked.
He laughed.
Never In my time" he said. |.
I'VE leave that to American law."l