Evening star., 1951-08-15
Selecting School Wurdrobes

Here are the general findings
OF a group OF fashion experts OF
the garment industry's Bible"
WOMEN'S WEAR DAILY, listed
for you as guide to your shop
pingJ
Planning college career, and
buying the clothes for it. is much
like entering wonderland, even
for young girls beyond Alice's age
b of fantasy. The wonderland"
theme is a good one to apply to
top fashion news for college ward
robes this year-the return of full
skirted silhouettes; of new sculp-
tured-feminine-hip curves even
for campus wear; of crinolines and
petticoats to assure the whole
look.
In summarizing the latest trends
In college fashions now being
shown for the coming school year,
there are many brand-new things
any college girl will find in stores
this year. if she's a freshman with
wardrobe to buy. or an upper
class woman with something new
for this year" in mind. Since a
lot Of the top news stems from
the shirt-look and the sweater
look which college girls dearly
love, and cling to as a badge, many
of the new fashions will be right
up their alley.
The two major new 1851 sill
houettes both add up to a styled
casual, well-groomed look which
college girls now claim as theirs.
1t is significant that these sill
houetteS are complete opposites
-one full-skirted and full of
curves; the other built on perfectly
straight lines for skirt and boxy
overblouSe tops. Soft as the full
skirts and arched hiplines look,
casual shirt and sweater details
keep these contours modern
American" in character, rather
than old-time looking. Petticoats
under these full skirts merge with
a tailored shirt, and now become
the "petti-shirt."
Separates manufacturers are
stressing independent" separates
for fall. 1851. Co-ordinated group
ings in basic fabrics are still pop
ular. but the emphasis is on mo-
bile and flexible items which can
go with many others, or in a girls
own separates wardrobe.
News of Skirts
While much of the season S
news is in full skirts, straight
looking skirts with plenty of walk
ing ease can be counted on. The
important thing for college wear
is the different degrees and man
ner of fu!lness and hip-shaping-
all controlled enough to look sleek
and well-groomed on campus, as
opposed to the undisciplined full
ness of che new look" year. Even
the most strictly tailored skirts
often have really arched hiplines,
or pockets which give an extended,
rounded effect. Then, there are
new uses of pleats, as in the skirt
with sharp, grouped pleats hidden
in deep side-seam pleat-all
Tipping open below the hipline
closing. Varying classic plaid
skirts Ire types like the cardigan
button-front pleated plaid, or all
around unStitched bias pleats
in plaids.
Biggest basic full skirt is the
one with twin-front impressed
pleat panels, based on fared lines.
In addition: Unpressed-pleat
fullness at either side. or all
around; Delled, fiat gore-f1ares; a
hipline yoke establishing width,
held out by an encircling cord:
hem-border cords to serve almost
as hoop; bias all-around pleats;
rolled cores.
Novelty Sweaters
For fall, the sweater look is
definitely "it," for the most eye
catching separate tops. woven or
knitted. Novelty sweaters. at
moderate prices, really ARRIVE"
this year for campus wear, the
fashion experts find. The news is
that novelty" now signifies
shaped and detailed and decorated
casual types, even more than
dressy sweaters. Ribbing used in
liberal sections and many turtle
necklines are the most obvious
touches. Bullion trimmings on
novelty textured knits, and wide
ribbed cotton knits approach the
look of novelty sweaters. The
twin sweater idea is here, too
for convertible "double-bodice"
blouses-- sleeveless or halter tops
under styled-up cardigans.
Newest items to go with full
skirts are the short-cropped, bulky
casual-looking jackets, rather
than the traditional demure fitted
types; and tailored-detailed cot
ton shirts. The shirt-look has
most encouraging possibilities
challenging the classic inexpen-
sive boy-jacket. The boy-jacket
holds up Importantly in handsome
adaptations of English jackets.
however, like the oxford jacket
with insignia pocket. Narrower
and sloped shoulder proportions
and more distinct cutaway lines
give this sort of boy-jacket real
squirt of high fashion interest for
fall.
A few college girls wearing cor