Evening star., 1949-01-14
BY Elem
Fashion Editor.


been for as long a period of TIM
rs many women would like to hav'
pthers believe. 1t has only beer
nuring the years since l941 tina
Editors visiting New York have beer
able to report the trends of leading
designers such as Carnegie, Rosen'
stein. Sondheim, Walker, McCar
dell, Ben Reig, Potter. Ren.ner, ane
the others who make up the Cou.
ture Group of the New York Dres.
Institute.
This Is the 18th institute ses.
kion for over 100 editors from al
over the United States and Canada
They cover the American collection.
rs they once covered only the Pari!
showings. Not every dress line il
New York is shown to them. there
being only over 1000 members max.
ting up the institute! But We dc
get chance to see the dress col.
lections that are deemed prophetic
sound, and definitely of the couture
variety. The influence of this
Couture Group is important because
they set the trends for the Other
boys on Seventh avenue" who
make up the bulk of the dresses
sold throughout America.
Well 60 on record as saying thai
were 1t in our power to bestoW
titles we'd MAKE CELL CHAPMAN
queen of Seventh avenue. For she
is the Carnegie Of the volume mar
ket. A designer wno's got an orig
inal, reasonably priced line, ano
fabrics that are worth something
Her first showing as a member OF
the Couture Group was definitely a
success. She combines a young
naive look with a calculated come
on" quality in her clothes. If you
like froth, she's got it. If you want
a slinky draped dress, she's got it
Want something new in cotton?
She's tucked cotton so exquisitely
you rub your eyes to see what trick
Is being played. She handles color
skillfully and uses all the fabrics
women think of when they dream of
that divine dress" Here We go into
the realm of Swiss organdies, chif-
fons. nylon, tulles, silk taffetas
failles and silk reps. The basic sill
houette in her evening group is the
great blosSoming skirt that tops a
tiny waistline and bare shoulders.
An outstanding shawl, fichu, or a
stole frames the neckline. Watch for
her silk mat jersey cocktail group.
These are the dresses that are going
to cause a sensation wherever seen.
They are "whittle' draped, meaning
body moulded from the low square
neckline to the hem. They feature
elbow-length sleeves. The skirt
drapes upward at the back under
q floating panel of the fabric.
They'll be the most important cock
tail dresses in their price range,
which is not as high as many others
in the Couture Group.
There's no time for beads or en-
broidery in the PAULINE TRIGERE
collection. The most French of all
American designers, her group of
clothes is worthy of praise in the
highest tradition of dressmaking
She's painstaking with details and
her clothes show it. Travelling
women will find any number of
designers looking out for them.
Pauline Trigere offers culotte suits
with sweeping domino coats worn
over them. Smooth lines, new
sleeve treatments, and slender will
lowy silhouette is apparent in her
spring and summer collection. Coat
dresses here are quite dramatic
You'll find more slim skirts than
full ones. Fly-back cuffs mark a
number of her suit jackets and
dresses. The short-sleeved coat was
first introduced in this house. This
season the idea has been picked
UP in any number of other houses.
This is one designer who feels
that in the United States good
taste in clothes prevails. She be-
lieves in finding new aims for the
world of fashion. While others may
think 1t takes yards and yards of
material to fashion dream dress,
she sticks to straight. sheathlike
look. Tiny straps are added to her
evening dresses to give new look
to bare shoulders. 1t was at the
Trigere collection we first noticed
the abundant use of artificial flow
ers as trimming on dresses. It's
catching on, for no collection has
missed showing posies adorning
spring creations. however, not all
Of them have been as novel as
Trigere, who tucked In fresh petals
amid the artificial ones and had the
model gayly toss them out into the
audience.
ADELE SIMPSON goes to "mus-
keteers," buccaneers, and gay cabal-
leros for the inspiration for a num-
Der Of her suits that possess DASH
ing airs. "Jib- jackets" abound as
does another jacket version that
hips out in curving folds below a
cinched waistline called the shelf
line" The collar lines for which
she Is equally well known continue
along In their own portrait way.
Deep, squashy cuffs there's not a
collection minus them and wide
revers add flourish to a collection
that lives up to its reputation for
being designed with great flourish.
An "Arabesque' treatment of tuck
ing is used on number of dresses
and the cuffs, collars and lapels OF
still other outfits in her collection.
The pockets that dot many of her
designs won't hold but a coin or
two. If you jam anything else into
them you'll wind up distorting the
line OF the dress. Adele Simpson be-
neves no dress should be hard to get
In and out of. Consequently, she
fashions dresses that one may get
into without mussing up the Golf
fure. Fabrics that bear noting are
summer alpaca, featherweig h I
failles, cotton damasks and a grour
she calls her treasure chest fab
RIGS" Much use of pure silk or
ganza is seen. This is news! Even
fabric people were amazed that she
would fashion it into daytime
dresses that remain crisp looking
Many polka dots are also to be seer
printed on this goSsamer and sheer