Evening star., 1949-01-14
Report From New York

bodice. The coat fastened with gold
buttons arranged in a double
breasted style. Short dinner dresses
are important at this house. The
thing we noticed at Ben Reig holds
true for a number Of other lines
viewed. Basic lines are as similar
as they were last fall. Difference
comes about through the imagina-
tive use of trims be they beads, lace
or lingerie touches. And, of course,
through the use of lighter fabrics.
The first American collection of
the noted French designer JAG
CUES FAITH left us with the i'm
preston that American designers
can relax bit. 1t wasn't that ter
rife. In fact, JOSEPH HALPERT,
under whose guidance and sponsor
ship the American dresses are being
manufactured, had a collection of
his own that seemed lots Frenchier
than Faiths. This is the first time
that French designer has come to
America to design a group espe-
cially with the American woman
and the American dollar in mind.
There are models aplenty in Mon
sieur Faiths collection, but in many
instances not anything we haven't
seen before. AS far as we're con-
cerned American designers have
nothing to fear from this sort OF
thing. That is, If this collection is
good sample of what to expect.
Mr.. Faith does use cottons in an
interesting manner. He treats them
as he would richer fabrics. AS far
as silhouette changes-there are
none just as there have been no
drastic ones to report in the Ameri-
can collections. The Faith clothes
will not be merchandised until
March. They'll be featured in lead
ing stores throughout the Nation.
In Mr.. Halpert's collection we
spotted Polonaise drapes, soft-rip-
Fpling skirts, and decolletage neck
lines handled with subtlety. The
use of chiffon over taffeta for eve
ming gave whispering quality to a
number of the evening frocks. Mr..
Halperts collection for spring and
summer continues in his tradition of
giving clothes to the American
woman that live up to his slogan of
Il Want Good Dress"
Here are briefs from the collec-
tions which bear rather look
alike" quality even though We know
the different designers weren't sit
ting together and chatting about
their new designs.
MILDRED O'QUINN employs mod
Grafton and assemblies a collection
that doesn't have necklines that
take the fatal plunge. Skirts aren't
so full they're unf1attering, either.
She believes in and designs ac-
cordingly, clothes that are classic,
unadorned, and specifically clothes
with a princess line to them. Fabrics
are treated with the fashion re-
spect due their fine quality. Floor
length dresses are not to be seen in
the collection. Her daytime dresses
seem stuck at II inches. The SIM
pie dress is fashioned by Miss
OQuinn in pique and in a rare
combination once with lace. Incl
dentally her personal lace collec-
ton is one of the finest in the
world.
HERBERT SONDHEIM has done
it again. Another well-rounded COL
lection is in the spring fashion line
up. Half of his collection will be
available in the "sondette" version
for smaller-sized women. A very
unusual manner of treating chiffon
is seen in this presentation. Chiffon
that is shirred all over is used for
several pieces. A number of straight
skirts in the collection are softened
with tunics. His tailored things are
possessed of a rather soft quality,
in contrast to a hard tailored look.
His dresses he has made to look like
costume coats. The Sondheim coat
dress is to be had in wool in both /
slim and a generous -skirted edi-
ton, and also in cotton and in lace
stitched right onto taffeta. Much
navy Is to be seen at this house
Also cafe au lait is indorsed. Sudan
cloth Cotton broadclothD is used for
one-piece afternoon dress with
deep dolman sleeves. The unusual
shirred back. the contour belt. are
repeat favorites brought back by de-