Evening star., 1949-09-19
The Chef
Says

CHEFS SAFARI-First stop IN
the trek northeastward in search
Of new dishes, as well as to sample
famous regional ones. was Balti.
more. home Of the crab and ter.
rapin. Lunched at Miller's,
perversely on lobster stew--one Of
their specialties, and Justly ap-
preciated by gourmets. The
amount Of sherry is a state secret,
but 1t is always just right :.
Then to Philadelphia. Now,
there Is an undying feud between
Baltimore and Philadelphia on the
subject Of terrapin. Each claims
its version is the best. In Philly
it generally Is conceded that the
very tops in its terrapin is to bs
found at Americas oldest cooking
and eating club, the State in
Schuylkill," established on May /,
1892, under King George II, by
a group of amateur fishermen. It
was then known as Colony In
Schuylkin." The original head was
called the Baron. the headquar-
ters the Castle. and members
Liegemen. Later. with the turn Of
certain events, the head became
Governor and the members Citi-
zens. Each member had to take
a turn at playing chef in suitable
attire-a custom followed in mod.
ern times.
The state" headquarters are
familiarly known as Fish House.
and the famous Fish House punch
is served tremendously in a spe-
cial bowl presented in 1912.
Snapper soup is another nota.
BILE Philadelphia concoction. And.
of course. there is Philadelphia
pepper pot. Tripe appears again
in dish combined with oysters
that is delicious. Cut one pound Of
honeycomb tripe in small squares
and simmer until tender in salted
water-should take about an hour.
Cream 2 tablespoons Of melted
butter with 4 tablespoons of flour
and add gradually quart Of milk.
Cook till smooth. then add the
yolks of eggs (beaten). / pint Of.
oysters and the cooked. drained
tripe. Cook just until the edges
of the oysters curl, and season
we'll with salt and black pepper.
Back to the road -.
Having bypassed New York as
being too-familiar territory and
too big to "cover" in a short story.
we rolled through the Connecticut
countryside. ....
Countrywomen still make the
famous Hartford election cake,
only now it usually is entered In
fairs under the title of Raised Loaf
Cake. Once New England cele-
brated only three holidays.
Thanksgiving Day. militia day
and election day. This last called
for feasting for both the victo.
rious and the vanquished. and the
cake was the highlight Of the oc-
casion. It Is spicy. full OF rat
sins, and boasts brandy among its
many ingredients.
New Haven and Yale contribute
to the culinary repertoire Of the
Nutmeg State with pudding
sauces well laced with rum. baked
Indian pudding and Yale beets.
to mention just a few. The
Yale beets undoubtedly were
developed in rivalry with the
better known Harvard beets. They
are delicious, especially with
chicken and dumplings. Wash
IL medium beets, peel them and
slice them thin. Mix 2 table
spoons of -four, "a cup Of sugar
and u teaspoon salt. Stir In "a
cup of orange juice. Pour this
over the beet slices which have
been put in a lightly buttered
dish, dot with butter and bake
IN moderate oven IOr ! nOur.
Another good dish we encoup-
tered in Connecticut was stuffed
eggplant-quite different from the
usual version. Get medium sized
eggplant, cut 1t in half and scoop
out the inside. Leave about "
inch of shell. Chop eggplant end
a r,,r ~ froSh y,assShroOnS IN.
gether coarsely and saute them
in 4 tablespoons Of butter with q
cup Of chopped onion. Add / cup
of minced ham and season with
salt and pepper. Fiji the eggplant
shells with the mixture and cover
the tops with buttered bread
crumbs. Bake in q moderate
oven until heated, through and
! So{Na1y hyrvryy, al