Arizona sun., 1948-08-27

IdC0 OXIOFu. n COuVCut1OudA wing.
tip design extends from the inside
over the tip of the shoe, flowing
then into curved tip line on the
outside. The shoes shown here are
in imported gOrse, with long
vamp circIing the entire quarter.
The tip is medallion with a special
medallion added to the quarter at
the lace row. The shoe also feat
ures white sole stitching.
draw out a cross thread and cut
along this line so the fabric will be
straight. If you cannot draw out a
thread, mark the fabric with chalk
and ruler, then cut along the line.
If the fabric is a second or has
flaws and imperfections in it, mark
these with pins, basting or chalk,
so you'll notice them during cutting
and can piece the pattern properly
to avoid them.
Check the fabric for right and
wrong side, marking the right side
with pins so that it can be seen
easily when you lay the pattern
on it.
Study Fabrics
Before Cutting
When you plan to cut mapped fab
RIGS, lay the pattern pieces on it so
that all pieces point the same way.
This is done so that the nap will all
run the same way when the garment
is finished. Velveteen, corduroy and
velvet are some of the more COM
mon naped fabrics, and they should
be studied so that you will know
how to cut them.
If you are in doubt as to whether
the fabric is mapped, feel it. If it
has the feeling of fur, you will know
it is mapped.
Sheen fabrics also must be stud
led before cutting, and here again,
it is important to place all pieces
of the pattern running the same
way before cutting. Sheen fabrics,
such as satin, catch the light in diff
ferent ways, and cutting this way
is a necessity or it will look as
though you had used different pieces
of material.
Both sheen and mapped fabrics
are best cut on rough surface such
as the floor SO they won't slip. If
you are using table, lay sheet
or. other piece of material on it so
that the materials do not slip as
you cut.
Take care to fold the material on
the straight of the goods or along
the lengthwise threads if you want
the garment to hang properly. If
you do not check this little matter
of the fold, you are apt to have a
crooked dress.
The fold is particularly important
when you cut sleeves, for if the pat
tern is not placed on the grain Of
the fabric, the sleeve always will
twist no matter how much you try
to remedy the fault in sewing. q
Follow the Guide
In Cutting Patterns
A guide usually is given with a
pattern which you purchase. It's
wise to study this and lay the fabric
with the pieces as directed because,
as you study. you will see there's
always reason. and good one
for doing it certain way.
The pieces should be pinned be-
fore you cut. Insert the pins from
the top, without slipping your hand
underneath the fabric. Wherever
the pieces are curved, use a lot OF
pins so there is no chance of slip
ping.
A good seam allowance is made
in most patterns, but it's a good
idea to allow more of a seam if you
are using material that ravels cas-.
ily It's especially important to
make an extra seam allowance on
the underarm seams of such ma
terial.
Cut with a long steady motion, slid.
ing the scissors along in a gliding
motion so that the cut will not be
uneven or ragged. The thick blade
of the shears is placed above the
material and the pointed one under.
meath. Use the middle of the blades
for cutting as this will give the
smoothest edge
If the pattern advises the sleeves
to be cut double, this means that
they are reversed AS you remove
the pins from the pieces, fold one
sleeve one way, and the other in
another way.
When the sleeve is cut single,
place on fabric and cut. To cut the
second sleeve, the pattern must be
turned and reversed as it is placed
on the material.
Mark with chalk all notches and
other notations after cutting to help