Evening star., 1948-07-21
BY Eieni
Fashion Editor.

Fashion Editor.
NEW YORK, N. Y.-If you are
called simple" this fall, don't take
1t amiss and be ready to do battle.
Relax, and understand that you are
tn the height of fashion. You are
being deliberately simple" as was
explained in the forum conducted
by the New York Dress Institute
during this, the 18th, national press
week for the fashion editors.
The collection Of the day dt may
well be THE collection of the week.
was Maurice Rentner's. His COL
lection last year was a little disap-
pointing, but this falls is terrific.
I left my dictionary at home or I
would have been up all evening
finding adjectives with which to
describe it.
Mr.. Renter prefaces each collec-
tion's showing with a few opening
remarks. We found these so appro-
pirate to many of the other collec-
tions seen today that we are going
to repeat few of them. He said
that the clothes this season are
original and in no one set form or
pattern. All are lovely, huid and
feminine. Though he did not apollo
gize for last falls styles he did say
that the general mistake was made
by retailers who believed that one
silhouette-new though 1t might
be would be suitable for all. When
a change is sudden and drastic as
were the exceptionally full skirts
every one believes that they can
wear them. OF course, all cannot
The simplicity of styles being
launched now will 60 on for years.
The next Is years in fashion will
not be sensational, according to Mr..
Rentner. There will be, however,
numerous changes made-all SEN
sible.
His collection this year is named
1.-THE Family Album" 1t Is very
versatile, and offers q number of
groups expressing distinct mood of
femininity. Fashion themes that will
prove fascinating when you see them
later on in the stores are the "Al-
exandra" collar, polonaise skirts for
day and evening with smooth fronts
and back fullness through cascading
folds and tiers, and outstanding ma
terials and colors. Kitten ears wool
is soft, rich fabric and, as Mr..
Rentner phrases it, is my most ex-
citing texture" Delicate laces COM
bined with satins make up a portion
Of his evening group that is as
lovely as any clothing has right
to be.
Brought out in the opening forum
was the fact that rich colors and
fabrics will be important. Women
are going to be encouraged to buy
an outfit in dark tone other than
black. In honor of New York's gold
en- birthday celebration many de-
signers are spotlighting gold tones
In their collections. Portrait styles
with definite 1898 touch to them
are prominently featured for fall.
The Victorian, the Empire, (pro-
nounced "am-peer" and the Direc-
toire are Just a few of the inspira-
tional periods being used this fall
by the designers.
1t was rumored the hobble skirt
was due for revival. We haven't
seen one to date. Coat dresses, how
ever, are as prevalent as suits. A
year from now it is predicted capes
will have very strong following.
Prices continue to interest women
and the number Of men who must
pay the bills for them. Happy is the
announcement that a number of de-
signers are including adequate rep
resentation Of clothes at the medium
and lower brackets of the price
ranges in their collections.
Now for a few specific statements
on the collections seen today:
Eta's led off. She is celebrating
an anniversary-her 25th year in a
designing career. Her clothes are
lovely, delicate and designed for the
mature woman. The great majority
Of them are perfect foils for jewels
and furs. If Nine Eta had one
shade Of gray In her collection-she
must have had TO- So gray were
things that her models even had
gray streaks in their hair! AS the
piece de resistance three lovelies
modelled an evening group in gray.
All three young ladies appeared to
have become prematurely gray. Five
minutes before they were blond,
brunette and red head. respectively.
We figured they had dye pots wait
ing for them in the ante-room. But
actually, they were sporting gray
wigs. It's supposed to be a trend
and we pass it on for what 1t is
worth. Eta's one-piece dresses of
wool, crepe and bengaline are almost
monastic in their simplicity. Bril-
liant touches fit in and out through
embroidery, beading and glittering
new fabrics.
Trigere's was the next showing
Pauline Trigere has a collection that
is well-rounded and good. Her best
silhouette is called neo-empire.
There is usually a fare from a
point high between the shoulder
blades, nodded bosom ard shoulder
line, all in one gentle curve with