Evening star., 1948-07-27
By Eleni
Fashion Editor.

Fashion Editor.
NEW YORK, N. Y.-The fashions
we have been previewing are, for the
most part, American in feeling
Smart, sensible. functional and at
the same time "chock full" of style
They are not exhibition" items
many are startling in their sim
plicity. It's hard to write raves
about them but they are good, sound
styles that we think you are going
to like.
CLAIRE McCARDELL has been
designing truly American clothes for
number of years. Her collection
this year features several new sill
houettes. The full skirt is still
very, very much a McCardell sig
nature. She's been way ahead on
number of style notes. Pockets?
Not Just this season but for years
And the very high waistlines which
are news this fall were shown by
McCardell as far back as two years
ago when she included them in her
various collections This year she
has a variation. Her new midrif1
line is pointed high in front and
curves low in back. A treatment
that may launch another waistline
trend. The "monastic" dress popu-
lar several seasons ago is back, re-
titled the "gunny sack" She shows
this silhouette in wool, tissue faille
and tissue flannel. High collar lines
low necklines gentleman commen-
tating the show said, "the lower we
cut them-the more We selD, new
colors, wool textures and designs
Miss McCardell has worked out
with the cooperation of the fabric
people tell you a bit of the
story.
The "little woman" is having hel
feelings considered by a name de.
signer this year. Some stores are
actually installing separate depart
ments to take care of the fashion
needs of the S. S" and under woman
HERBERT SONDHEIM has recog-
nized the fact that many petite GUS
toners aren't petite because they
asked to be that small. He feels
that there Is no reason to ignore
them, fashion-wise. Properly scaled
fashions are coming into their own
more and more and Mr.. Sondhein
this season is offering his "Sond-
cites" to this special group. These
"proportionate" dresses constitute
approximately Is styles that are rep.
resentative of his collection. The
idea has come about because of q
crying need in the fashion industry
to fit properly the large percentage
of women who cannot wear standard
sizes. Another point was that re-
tailers cannot always furnish ade.
quate alteration service to theil
customers. Mr.. Sondheim has one
of the best all-around collections
seen this week. He has also EN-.
barked on a venture that may start
high-style dress designers showing
their lines in two size ranges. Slim
ness prevails in his collection. tn,
little black dress" designed by thi
house is strictly "stunner." Tiers
sheaths, slim overskirts opened il
front, folds of drapery all help t.
give added sophistication to tn
dress that most well-dressed womel
will include in their wardrobes fo
the fall.
ADELE SIMPSON has a warn
>fspot in her heart for those womel
who reside in Northern climes. TIL,
bitter cold winter coupled with long
full skirts that were not warm whei
the wintry blasts blew, gave her in
spiration for her blue boys" Thes
are little knee breeches of brigh
jersey or striped damask to hell
keep you warm, snug, and sauc.
: beneath a slim suit skirt. Mrs
Simpson suggests they may also b,
:, worn for lounging. In this collection
women are going to be framed
: The wide portrait neckline Mrs
Simpson is so fond of is seen again
This season it's called "The Ouch
ess" collar On q black suit will
. white ermine making up the cola
. 1t is the answer to q maiden's praye
/, as to what should she wear to th'
theater. There's no war time skimp