Evening star., 1948-01-16
New York Showings
By EIeni
Fashion Editor

By Elem
Fashion Editor
NEW Clothes designers,
sensing the American women's re-
sistance to a number of items Of
fered since last falls showing, are
bidding fer milady's favor again.
Spring of '48 promises to be q sea-
son of truly pretty clothes-tradi-
tional clothes, designed with sensi-
tive feeling for fresh beauty and
really wonderful lines.
Spring is going to be a 'happy"
season, fashionably speaking. Ex-
treme bulk has been cleared away.
Rippling fullness now is "the thing"
The new look" launched last fall
of course is here to stay. It's accept
ance Is assured. Hemlines are sta
bilized at around 13 inches. No one
disputes that any longer.
Two collections always eagerly
awaited by fashion editors are those
of Hattie Carnegie and Nettie Ro-
senstein. Rosenstein's showing at
SherTy's on Park avenue failed to
draw the raves Of last year. Yet It,
was exciting, and Miss Rosenstein's
fabulous evening clothes are Just
that. FabulousAand romantic!
Hattie Carnegie's collection was
no surprise. We'd already seen
practically all of 1t before in Wash
ingtou when the Carnegie spring
and summer collection was exhibited
at the fashion show sponsored by
the League of Republican Women
Of the District of Columbia, held
not too long ago at the Mayfower
Hotel. For the benefit Of those who
didn't read reports on it, we'll re-
view it in brief. The butterfly
skirt" is a new Carnegie spring note.
It's seen in any number of her
suits. Another suit note Is the
baroque scroll front and cuff details
on many suits for spring. Carnegie
does not show extremely full skirts.
In fact, the astonishing thing in a
season of swirling skirts are Car
negie's slim ones.
A Balenciaga model may not
have inspired Miss Carnegie to
create a pure silk taffeta suit en-
bellished with guimpe embroidery
and tiny ball fringe - but that's
what 1t reminded us Of. This suit
with the extended peplum jacket
front end held out and lined with
:, silk, and semifared skirt Is now In
the costume wing of the Museum
Of Art in Philadelphia as q perma-
nent exhibit Of Miss Carnegies. The
little "hug-me-tight" bolero finds a
place In her new collection as does
the "shirtwaist." Her prints are
fascinating, especially one called
'.New York." done up into gay
print dress with the crossover bodice
that has soft folds and wide, low
cut neck line. A tiny shoulder cape
(there we go again with capes). can
also double as a scarf. The evening
clothes that went over big with the
presswomen were the same that
created sensation in Washington.
One was pink swiss shadow organ
DIV with a white flower pattern that
had O detachable side-draped pan-
nier overskirt in white and pink
organdy. Another was white swiss
taffeta, strapless. A turquoise sash
tied in a big bow gave q charming
touch to the dress. The other eve
ming dress that could easily stop
any show was the gown Miss Car
negie fashioned out of rainbow hues
of pink, Carnegie blue and fawn
green. The TERED skirt on this
strapless evening gown of nylon net
was high in front and longer In
back. It's "the look" for spring, or
80 many leading American design
ers seem to think.
In the Adele Simpson collection,
she achieves a novel ensemble
look" by placing over her print
dresses, small wasted coats OF
black bengaline or wool. One cos
tune that should meet with ap-
proval Of week enders Is the print
dress with a taffeta coat. The skirt
of the coat buttons down the front
from the waist and may be worn as
a separate taffeta skirt over the
print for "tea time" incidentally.
"cocktailing" is on the way out. II
some of the spring collections that
have a Victorian style influence to
them are to be worn to best ad-
vantage, women will wear their
petticoated dresses and bonnets not
to cocktail parties" but to teas y
It's all tied up with that return to
elegance, formality and the period
when "tea time" was the. high
moment of the day.
Adele Simpsons gold rush" cot
tons will be well received. These
are washable as we'll as nontarnish-
able. Her suits are nearly all full
skirted and swirling. Evening
clothes in the collection have q
'spull-down" neckline, while most OF
her daytime clothes feature collars
that are rather high-riding. All her
evening clothes are ankle-length.
The characteristic that most OF
them possess is the skirt that Is
built out with multiple petticoats-
her Degas skirt. Her character
prints, some of which have a mar
bleized appearance, and others pre-
sent a third-dimensional perspec-
tive. Women will like this designers