Evening star., 1947-02-16

Pruning time makes its debut in
this area about Washington's birth
day. Since that is close at hand
we should stop and take note of the
jobs to be done. We have often dis
cussed the pruning of roses and
shrubs, but the pruning of fruits,
especially of the bush fruits, is
often overlooked. However, they
are grown in many local gardens
and so If we include grapes there
are many backyards with pruning
jobs to be done.
Many gardeners grow raspberries
even though Washington is too far
south for best results. Diseases are
very common to the raspberry in
this area, but because the fruits are
enjoyed by many and are rather
costly to buy we still make the ef-
fort to grow them and often with
considerable success.
Pruning raspberries may be di-
vided into three steps. The first is
the removal of the old fruiting
canes, which should be done imme-
diately after harvest. This throws
the strength of the plants into the
new canes which will bear the next
seasons crop. The removal of the
old scaly, weak canes tends to re-
move likely sources of infection,
both Of insects and diseases.
Thin the New Canes.
The second phase of pruning is
commonly taken care of in the
spring, although it may be done at
any time of the year, namely the
thinning out of the new shoots or
canes. These new growths whicn
come from the roots draw upon the
plants strength. Some varieties,
especially the ST. Regis, a redcap,
produce so many canes that unless
thinned the fruits are small and
tedious TO pick. BY thinning the
canes. removing all but five to seven
per plant. the fruits will be much
larger and more desirable. This
thinning job may be done at any
time of the year. 1t should be done
every time the plants are hoed
These two steps apply equally
we'll to the three types of raspber-
ries-red, black and purple.
The third step in the pruning of
raspberries is done at various sea-
sons of the year, depending upon
the type, although most gardeners,
if they do it at all, do it when they
clean out the berry patch" in the
spring. 1t consists of shortening
the canes which are to bear the next
crop. Most well grown raspberries
produce such long canes that. under
the weight of a crop of fruit they
droop badly, even into the dirt. BY
cutting the canes back to height
Of not more than 5 feet they will
stand erect, thus facilitating picking
and avoiding the necessity of sup
port. Stalking makes cultivation
easier but is somewhat of a task,
sometimes expensive. The taller
growing red varieties, such as La
than the Chief, may need stalking
in addition to being cut back; GER
tainly they need more severe prun-
ing than the dwarfer growing St
Regis.
Shorten Lengths of Canes.
The red raspberry canes should
be shortened in the early spring and
it is desirable to. remove the tips OF
all canes even though less than 4
feet in height Blackcaps and pur-
pie raspberry canes should be short
ened in May or about month be-
fore the frlliting season.
Blackberries, which are too ram
pant for garden culture in this area
are pruned very much the same as
the raspberries. Cut off the old
fruiting canes as soon as harvest is
over. Thin and shorten the new
shoots at the same time or soon
after. This induces branching and
stocky growth. In the spring the
side branches are shortened to Il
to 1S inches. Severe thinning is
needed to keep them within bounds
Boysenberries and dewberries are
pruned in the same manner but be-
cause of different training 1t may
not seem the same. AS soon as har-
vest is over the old fruiting canes
are removed and the new shoots al
lowed to grow the ground or on q
low wire trellis. In the spring the
fruiting canes are lifted up and tied
to a stake or higher trellis. Whether
tied to a stake or trellis the canes
should be thinned and shortened to
promote stronger growth and larger
fruit. The boysenberry is tender in
this area and should be carried over
winter covered with dirt or leaves