Evening star., 1947-12-28
Dwarf Fruits for Small Gardens
Espaliered Trees Are Attractive,
Yield Small Amount of Fine Fruit
By W. n. Younamon

By W. n. Younsmon !
American gardeners who visit
Europe are usually impressed with
the dwarf fruit trees that are trained
in formal patterns to walls and
frames-espaliered trees as they are
commonly called.
The dwarf trees, loaded with fruit,
are attractive and the idea Of having
a limited quantity Of high quality
fruit is intriguing. However, one
fact is overlooked. In most part of
Europe it is necessary to train the
fruit trees to a building or wall in
order to have the heat necessary
for the fruit to ripen. I have seen
concrete walls that were erected in
fruit gardens solely for this purpose.
The problem Of ripening fruit in
Europe that was responsible for this
method Of training does not prevail
in this area, but trees trained to
the walls of O. building are seldom in
iured by late frosts which Is of IN
terest to local gardeners. We may
employ this method of training for
other reasons-fiowers and fruit on
such compact plants as to make their
use practicable in many small city
wards. Thus, if we are willing to
give the care needed 1t is possible to
have flowers and fruit in most at
tractive form. At Mount Vernon
the dwarf fruit trees are used to In
close a section Of the kitchen garden.
Most Of the examples Of this kind OF
fruit culture are to be found IN the
older gardens of the Middle Atlantic
area.
ONLY a few nurseries offer ready
trained trees, hence they have not
been as widely planted as have the
unframed dwarfs. Those nurseries
who do specialize in the production
of espaliered fruit trees offer them
in various sizes. Generally speak
ing two or three year old trees
stand transplanting with less shock
than do the older ones. However,
the shape Of a tree can hardly be
well developed under 5 years OF
age.
Start With Hardy "Whips."
ANY patient gardener can train
dwarf fruit tree to the desired
design, When this is to be done 1t
is desirable to purchase one or TWO
wear old dwarf fruit trees, which are
hardly more than whips" These
should be planted in their per-
manent sites and the necessary sup
ports provided which will conform
to the pattern to which the trees
are to be trained.
Dwarf fruit trees may be pur-
chased in very dwarf, seldom ex-
ceeding 6 feet in height at ma
turity; dwarf, which attain a
slightly higher stature, and semi
dwarf, which will reach 10 feet IN
height. The dwarf1ng is due to
the type of root stock on which the
top is budded or grated. For a
small space the very dwarf is desir-
able. although where height is not
50 important one may choose the
dwarf or semidwarf. There are
several types of dwarf1ng root stocks
in use today, but the one seemingly
giving the best results is the NAL
ling, of which there are several.
The Mailing No. TX is the most
dwarfng.
The dwarfing root stock does not
provide large root system which
makes three steps necessary Tor
successful dwarf fruit culture. Be
cause of the small root system which
Is rather shallow it Is necessary to
give the tree support. A strong
stake is all that is necessary Tor the
tree that Is allowed to develop q
normal top. The second step Is to
plant trees at the same depth they
grew in the nursery. II planted too
deeply they are likely to develop a
root system above the graft and
thus lose the dwarfing effect. II
roots or shoots should develop above
or at the point of the graft they
must be removed. And third. be-
cause of the small root system,
dwarf fruit trees need to be more
regularly fed than do those trees
whose widespread root systems can
reach and secure ample food and
moisture
Keep Securely Tied.
The whole tree should be kept
firmely tied to the supports. This
step is exceedingly important tor
the new branches and especially
after bending. Any strong, broad
material may be used for tying.
Raffia is inexpensive and has the
advantage of seldom cutting the
bark. The disadvantages are that
it needs to be replaced each year:
and when new it is rather con-
spicuous.
Espaliers may be trained to
wooden framework, but this usually
requires painting each year. And
even then, unless well constructed,
they tend to wrap and the bases rot
of. A heavy galvanized wire, either
No. 10 or IL, fastened to a galvanized
pipe framework is longer lasting
and does not require painting. 1t
well set in concrete such frame
work will often last Is to 20 years.