The Key West citizen. [volume] (Key West, Fla.) 1879-current, 1947-09-18
Mae West
Rides Again
In Paris
BY FLORENCE MILLS

DAnlS.-PurlS toll Coliec1OnS
i show that Moe Vests fo-
nous contour is back in the
news and the skirt length thot
enveloped the renowned form
in her heYddY has accompanied
the big return
Exaggerated silhouettes. how
ever. ore seldom. popular
choices and only q toned down
version of this outsize figure
eight line will be necessary to
be q lo mode.
The All important question OF
length which was preached last
year. with only partial success.
has become an issue this fall.
The trend is definitely down
wards as far as midcalf at
least. so you'll all have to do
some hem dropping.
Shoulder span remains rounded
and moderate. Newest thing to
note is that sleeves in some coll
lcctions are inserted well below
the natural shoulder line-almest
as an afterthought. Padding ex-
tends only slightly beyond the
natural span.
Mad Carpenter. an acknowl-
edged pace-setter, shows this
dropped shoulder line through
out her collection. 1t is particu-
larly marked on her top coats
which often show sleeves inserted
half way down to the elbow.
For those who really take the
Mae West trend seriously, "gue-
pieres" (hippy, waist-restricting
corselets) are available but Paris
designers have thoughtfully ca
tered also to those women who
spurn artificial aid for their fig
ureS.
Many big houses are displaying
a wide range of gowns nodded to
the natural form. These come in
straight-lined semi-sports wear.
and in afternoon and cocktail
gowns where swathed drapery is
artfully treated to promote ma
tural Mae" line.
The barrel silhouette, SO named
because the widest part of the
skirt comes at the middle hips,
all fullness being tapered off at
waist and hemline, is a favorite
this season, despite the fact that
many collections exclude it COM
pletely. 1t is executed in various
ways. Some dresses have gath
ers, strung from fitted waist
yoke, being graduated into hem
line equivalent to that of pencil
skirt. Others acquire the barrel
line b yam unusual curved seain
about foot up from the skirt
bottom, which looks as though it
is kooped.
Hobble skirts with intricate
crossed swathing around the hips,
often with bustles of varying
size, are still in the news, and
TERED and pencil skirts all al
lowing only very cramped leg
movement also are retained from
last season. Grecian drapery, in
every conceivable form, creeps
into every collection.
An Extravaganza in the full
skirted line is displayed by
Christian Dior who uses 10
yards of material in one gown.
Suits are spotlighted this fall.
Most of them are dressy affairs
with fluted peplumS and rounded
cut-away hemlines. All have ex-
tremely nipped waists and jacket
lengths run the scale between
wrist and thigh level. Fur trim
ming in either fox or Indian or
Persian lamb is used extensively.
Embroidery in heavy soutache, jet
or velvet also injects glamour.
Classic suits often come with
capes of hair three-quarter and
seven-eignth lengths, all tailored
on straight lines, which convert
them into extremely chic three
piece sensembles.
Some topcoats have huge cape
tie Corporal" and the coachmen
who served in his day.
Fabulous full length capes and
bulky, almost shapeless topcoats
are trimmed and lined extensively
wit hall kinds of fur from low
Hest coney to opulent mink. Even
long fitted coats often come fur
lined. Collars, fur or furlined, are
very high, straight affairs which
often envelop the face right up
to the ears.
Evening wear is superb 'this
fall. 1t has a splendor one asso-
ciates with Cinderella's big night.
Billownig dervish skirts and
crinolines take the lead, but
sheath-like gowns, both TERED and
draped are to be seen in most
collections. All come thickly en-
crusted with dazzling multi-col-
ored brilliants that look like pre-
cious peWels. or with elaborate
embroidery in sequins, jet and
sometimes rhinestones. Appliqued
velvet motifs also are used pro-
fuSely.
Materials ar luxurious in tex
ture and color. Rich velvets, pas
tel brocadeS, MORE taffeta, or
candle, net and heavy satins are
exploited to the full for billoW-
ing fullness. Silk jersey and
E.