Evening star., 1947-07-06
By w. n. Younqmon

uations, spots where sun and drain
age combine to make a desert-llke
condition. This should not deter the
gardener. There are number OF
trees, shrubs, perennials and an
nuals that can be depended upon to
grow under such conditions.
Because these plants are tolerant
does not justify planting them with
out careful soil preparation, nor
abandoning them to their fate once,
planted. It is a matter of expert
ence that all plants should be given
a reasonable degree Of attention and
care when planting. We should see
that they are given a decent start.
For many plants that Is the differ
ence between strong vigorous
growth or a poor struggling exist
erce-a period in which they are
weakened and made subject to at
tack by insect and disease.
The soil preparation can be sum-
married. as follows: l. Dig hole
amply large to accommodate the
roots without bending. 2. Mix COM
post, leaf-mold or peat moss with
the soil in the bottom of the hole
and with that which will cover the
roots. Avoid manure or strong fer
tilizers in contact with the roots.
Bonemeal is suggested for mixing IN
the soil before planting deciduos
trees and shrubs-but not for ever
greens.
After placing the tree or shrub it
is desirable to fill the hole two
thirds to three-fourths full of soil
and to firm it about the roots, then
I'LL the hole with water and allow to
settle before completing the filling
OF the hole. 1t is generally wiser to
leave slight depression around the
trunk or stem so that rainfall will
run towards the hole rather than to
mound the soil, causing the water to
drain away.
With the tree or shrub so planted
IN a soil we'll supplied with moisture
retaining humus and the surface
leveled to carry rainfall to the hole
the conditions should be favorable
for growth. Some moisture prob
ably will be needed If the planting is
made late in the season, but If
planted early in the spring or early
in the fall, very little further atten-
ton will be needed because normal
rainfall should meet the plants
needs. However, a prolonged period
without rain should mean supple
mentary water.
Trees: Box elder and locust are
two well-known trees that do we'll in
hot dry situations. although we
should not overlook the Chinese elm
which was so widely used in the
shelter belts on the Great Plains.
This elm, however, makes its best
and most rapid growth in fertile
moist soil. The Chestnut and Scar
let oaks seem to favor poor sandy
soils rather than heavy soils as do
the Post, Scrub and the Bur oaks.
Evergreens: AS a general rule we
select the jumpers for the hotter,
drier situations. The red cedar or
Virginia cedar is probably the best
qualified for such a situation but 1t
does not retain form or vigor for
long and hence Is not recommended
except for the most unfavorable sit
uations. The Hinoki cypress. Mugho,
Jack and Scotch pines are good. The
Black spruce, a rather short lived
tree in this area, often does better in
hot dry situation than in foun-
dation planting.
Shrubs: Many shrubs thrive in
hot dry situation if once given
good start, but are oftentimes mis-
erable failures If neglected The
common California privet and the
Japanese barberry are two which
react in this way. The Siberian pea
shrub and the Russian olive were
widely used in the western shelter
belts. Both need to be given careful
planting. The common coralberry will
make a mat over a hot dry bank in
a surprisingly short time. Less COM
monty planted shrubs that may be
expected to survive such unfaVor-
able conditions are the Ffve-leaf
Aralia, Purple Bush clover. Shrubby
Cinquefoil, Jet bead and the Way
faring-tree. The Morrow honey
suckle Is fairly good In such a situa-
ton and has a better habit Of
growth than the spreading Tartar
ian which is 50 widely planted.