The Wilmington morning star., 1946-08-23
Back Ia Her Ashes
BY EARLE r.

BY EARLE r. BUCKLEY
CHUNGKING.-The endless hills of China's
wartime capital were exactly the same, but
the top of the hill l could sense that Chungking
had changed-changed as much as a G.. l..
who has returned to civilian life.
thought of Cinderella, and in a way there
is an interesting parallel between the fairy
tale and Chungking today. 1t is just II months
since VJ-Day and the clock seems to be strlk-
ing a tigurative midnight for this Cinderella
city. During the war years, Chungklng was
the symbol of resistance, proud OF her new
and dramatic role, of the numerous notables
attending her. World leaders came, and the
fate of hundreds Of millions of people was de-
cided, under her protection. There are many
changes a city must make when her position
in life is changed SO quickly, SO completely.
She struggled earnestly with the effort it cost
her, III ed in many ways, and won through
to VJ-Day.
Now a year latter, with the Central Govern
ment the United States Army H. O., and the
various embassies moved to Marking again,
this city seems to have returned quickly TO
her previous humble role.
Probably the most noticeable difference is
the absence of G. is from the streets. At the
present writing, the U. S. Army personnel
numbers one - a Hawaiian-Chinese sergeant
with the A. G. r. S. Gone, too, are most OF the
''doWn-river'' girls, whose dress and polse
were superior to those of their Chungking cous-
ms, and who, of course, brought the most ap-
preciative whistles from the G. is.
Stores, dependent upon the generous and
strange tastes of foreigners for existence, are
closed, their open fronts boarded up one night
in the regular Chinese fashion, not to be open
ed again. Restaurants and night clubs that
mushroomed to meet the demand OF G. lis
have faded fast. The party is over; the pump
kin is once again a pumpkin.
Perhaps the most interesting change is not
the most apparent. Previous to VJ-Day, Chung
king was a haven for thousands who fled be-
fore the japanese attack. DoWn-river indus
tries reorganized in the city and near by, which
together with army and various government
offices, provided numerous opportunities for
work; junks and sampans floated the rich
harvests of the Chengtu valley into the city;
new homes were built and there was a fra
eternity between men Of different provinces
and different dialects which had never existed
before.
But today Chungking is a veritable prison
to almost as many thousands. Factories have
closed; government and army offices, schools
and colleges have moved to former sites; big
business has gone down river again. In all
this great exodus, however, the little man,
away from home, is left behind. Gratitude has
changed to chagrin for him; security is ex-
changed for a dwindling pocketbook as jobs
evaporate and initiation mounts.
Transportation, one of China's most retard-
ing factors, has kept him from enjoying the
sweetness Of at least a temporary peace in
his cherished native province. To Americans,
accustomed to the most efficient transporta-
ton system in the world, it is hard to visualize
the plight of John China-citizen when he wants
to move his family several hundred miles.
Among Chinese friends l am visiting are
families who have been waiting in Chungking
months for passage to return to their homes,
and their cases are by 10 means exceptional.
A year ago I wrote of a basic honesty among
the poorer working class and cited a few il
Illustrations. In Shanghai this pleasant faith
was shaken with stories less pleasant to relate
I have had only one opportunity to observe on
this trip whether my previous opinion was a
valid one, and I am happy to- be able to tell
you this simple story-an actual experiment
which / purposely carried out.
Two friends whom I was visiting called a
ricksha, and paid the boy the cost of the fare
to the place where I was going. The route
was to take us over some Of the %steepest Of
the hills in Chungking, a series of which I
could climb on almost vertical steps Or be
pulled up the long winding road to the right.
1 told the boy that I would walk the stairs,
and for him to meet me at the top OF the hill.
He was very happy with the offer and started
eff quickly with the empty ricksha. We soon
lost sight of each other, and he had ample
opportunity to go where he liked, since the
fare had already been paid. My route was
considerably faster, and I waited at the top
of the hill-hoping that he would arrive, for
reasons more practical than my experiment in
ethics. since there was still more than a mile
~ travel to nv destination. At the point where
INV Faith began to waver, his sweaty smile ap-
peared below.
AS | prepare to fly back to Shanghai In a
few days, l have memories more pleasant
than on any previous trip, memories OF a city
that seemed happy to have been a Cinderella
for a while.
No prince is liable to come seeking heI
again with a glass slipper, but history Will
never forget C~hungking and the great role
she has played. For generations her cltlzens
will have tales to tighten the evening hours,
tales FAR more strange and wonderful tnan
any the original Cinderella could have told.